What to See in England Part 10

THE HOME OF GILBERT WHITE

=How to get there.=--Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Alton (4 miles from Selborne).

=Distance from London.=--46-1/2 miles. East Tisted, 2 miles from Selborne, shortly to be available.

=Average Time.=--1-3/4 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 7s. 9d. 5s. 0d. 3s. 10-1/2d.

Return 13s. 6d. 8s. 8d. 7s. 9d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--At Alton--"Swan Hotel," "Crown Hotel," etc.

Selborne, the birthplace of the famous naturalist, Gilbert White, is situated in the extreme eastern corner of the county of Hamps.h.i.+re. A vast chalk hill rises some 300 feet above the south-western side of the village, part of which is covered with an extensive beech wood, called "The Hanger," and a down or sheep-walk. This down is a beautiful park-like spot, with a delightful woodland, now bounded by the Suss.e.x Downs. The village lies at the foot of the chalk hill parallel with the Hanger, and contains only one straggling street, nearly a mile in length, a small rivulet rising at each end. The stream at the north-western end often fails, but the other, known as the "Well-Head,"

is a fine spring, seldom influenced by drought. Wolmer Forest, near by, is famed for its timber. In the centre of the village, on a piece of ground commonly known as "The Plestor," there stood, until the fearful storm of 1703, a colossal oak tree, with a short body and enormous horizontally spreading arms. The stone steps, with seats above them, surrounding the tree, formed a favourite resort for both old and young during summer evenings. This oak, together with an equally large elm tree, are mentioned by White.

Gilbert White was born in 1720. He began his education at Basingstoke, from whence he proceeded in 1739 to Oriel College, Oxford, and finally became one of the senior proctors of the university in 1752. On his father's death, White became the occupier of his house in Selborne known as "The Wakes," and afterwards became curate of the parish. He never married, but lived a happy and uneventful life, wrapped up in the wonderfully exact observations of nature which were the basis of his numerous letters forming _The Natural History of Selborne_. His final resting-place is un.o.btrusively marked by a simple grey stone bearing the initials "G.W.," a monument entirely in keeping with Gilbert White's quiet and retiring nature and refres.h.i.+ngly simple style of writing.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE WAKES.

Gilbert White's house at Selborne.]

ELSTOW

THE HOME OF JOHN BUNYAN

=How to get there.=--Through train from St. Pancras. Midland Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Bedford (1 mile from Elstow).

=Distance from London.=--50 miles.

=Average Time.=--An hour.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 6s. 7d. ... 3s. 11-1/2d.

Return 13s. 2d. ... 7s. 11d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Embankment Hotel," "Lion Hotel,"

"Swan Hotel," etc., at Bedford.

=Alternative Route.=--Train from Euston. L. and N.W. Railway.

The little village of Elstow, near Bedford, will always be remembered as the birthplace of John Bunyan, and the cottage is still shown where the "immortal dreamer" was born. It was while in Bedford jail for "conscience' sake" that Bunyan ministered to all posterity by writing the _Pilgrim's Progress from this World to the World to Come_, under the similitude of a dream. As an allegory of the soul's conflicts and struggles with evil in its journey through life, it is unsurpa.s.sed. It is believed that no other book except the Bible has gone through so many editions or attained such a popularity in all languages. It has been generally understood that Bunyan's early life was a very profligate one, but some have thought that his terrible self-accusations in after years may have arisen from the height of his religious fervour and Puritan strictness, which made him look on dancing and bell-ringing as deadly sins. This idea is satisfactorily given by Macaulay.

Bunyan was of poor parentage, his father being a tinker. At one time he was in the Parliamentary Army, and in 1645, was present at the siege of Leicester. Having left the army, he married. Then after a time of great spiritual agony and doubt, with quieter intervals, he became a member and then minister of the Baptist congregation at Bedford. His labours were stopped by the Act of Conventicles, and Bunyan was a prisoner in Bedford jail for twelve years. While in prison Bunyan a.s.sisted in providing for the wants of his wife and family by making tagged laces.

The only books he had during his confinement were the Bible and Foxe's _Book of Martyrs_. Through the kind interposition of Bishop Barlow of Lincoln, Bunyan was released, and resumed his work of a preacher until his death from fever in London in 1688. Bunyan also wrote the _Holy War_ and _Grace Abounding_, an autobiographical narrative.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Valentine & Sons, Ltd._

BUNYAN'S COTTAGE AT ELSTOW.

The cottage is structurally the same as in Bunyan's time.]

LEWES, SUSs.e.x

=How to get there.=--Train from London Bridge or Victoria. London, Brighton, and South-Coast Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Lewes.

=Distance from London.=--50 miles.

=Average Time.=--Varies between 1-1/4 to 2-1/4 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 8s. 6d. 5s. 0d. 4s. 2d.

Return 15s. 0d. 9s. 0d. 8s. 4d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"The White Hart Hotel," "Crown,"

"Commercial," "Temperance Hotel," etc.

Lewes, a prosperous agricultural centre, situated on the Suss.e.x Ouse, is a place of great antiquity, in spite of its present modern appearance.

Its early history is vague, but it is known that it was of importance even under the Saxon kings, and was fortified in Alfred's time. William the Conqueror gave Lewes to Earl William de Warenne, who had married Gundrada, said to be the daughter of Queen Matilda and the Conqueror. De Warenne built the castle, or considerably enlarged the old Saxon fortress, which is now in ruins. The castle possessed a curious feature, of which no other examples now remain, in having two keeps, each built upon a mound. Only one of these keeps (admission 6d.) still exists, its towers covered with ivy. From its summit a splendid view of the surrounding country can be obtained towards the chalk bluffs of the South Downs and the valley of the Ouse. The great gateway of the castle still stands, and in Southover, the suburb of Lewes, are the remains of the once large and wealthy Priory of St. Pancras. This was the first Cluniac establishment in England. It was founded by De Warenne and Gundrada, and continued to be of great importance up to the dissolution.

Until about sixty years ago the old pigeon-house of the priory, containing 3228 pigeon-holes, was still standing. When excavations were going on during the construction of the railway, which pa.s.ses through the priory grounds, the workmen came upon two leaden coffins, which were discovered to be those of William de Warenne and his wife. These were removed to Southover Church, and Gundrada's grave has now its original tombstone of black marble, which was found in Isfield Church. On the site of the race-course was fought in 1264 the battle of Lewes, between Henry III. and the insurgent barons, led by Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester. There are a few old houses left, and the modern town hall contains a beautiful oak staircase and panelling taken from the old Star Inn.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._

THE BARBICAN AT LEWES CASTLE.

The castle was built by William de Warenne, who had received Lewes from William the Conqueror.]

BODIAM CASTLE, SUSs.e.x

=How to get there.=--Train from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Robertsbridge (4 miles from Bodiam). From Robertsbridge take train to Bodiam Station (which is close to the castle) on Rother Valley Light Railway.

=Distance from London.=--51 miles.

=Average Time.=--Varies between 1-1/2 to 3 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 8s. 4d. 5s. 3d. 4s. 2-1/2d.

Return 14s. 8d. 10s. 6d. 8s. 5d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Castle Hotel."

=Alternative Route.=--None.

Bodiam Castle is open to the public every day of the week except Sundays (tickets, obtainable at the keeper's cottage, 6d. each; Thursdays, 1s.

each).

There is practically no other moated castle in England which compares with Bodiam in its completeness. It was built about the year 1386, but its usefulness for defensive purposes, in view of the increasing destructiveness of weapons at that time, has been doubted. However, the knight who was responsible for its construction was Sir Edward Dalyngrudge, who fought at both Crecy and Poictiers, and must therefore have seen the primitive forerunner of the modern field-gun in use. The walls of the castle now enclose a gra.s.sy quadrangle, to which access is gained through a fine gateway, which still retains its outer iron portcullis. The three others, through which an attacking force was obliged to penetrate, have all disappeared. Although it has been stated that the parliamentary forces under Waller captured Bodiam Castle during the Civil War, it seems to be unlikely that such an attack was ever made; for in March 1645 the property was conveyed by the Earl of Thanet to one Nathaniel Powell of London, who was strongly in favour of the Commonwealth.