What to See in England Part 21

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._

THE RESTORED ROMAN BATH AT BATH.

The bases of the columns are chiefly untouched Roman work.]

BOSTON AND THE PILGRIM FATHERS

=How to get there.=--Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly.

=Nearest Station.=--Boston.

=Distance from London.=--107-1/4 miles.

=Average Time.=--3 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 15s. 4d. ... 8s. 11d.

Return 30s. 8d. ... 17s. 10d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Peac.o.c.k and Royal," "Red Lion"

Hotels, etc.

=Alternative Route.=--None.

The English Boston, which gave its name to the great American seaport, was at one time--although it is hard to believe--of as relatively great importance as its mighty namesake of to-day. In the time of Edward III.

it was considered the third most important town in England, for during that reign it contributed no fewer than seventeen s.h.i.+ps to the great fleet which was raised by Edward III. But Boston declined through its river--the Witham--becoming scarcely navigable for more than small s.h.i.+ps, and after a time was placed on the list of decayed seaports. At the present time it should be mentioned that its trade is steadily reviving.

The town has a quiet, old-fas.h.i.+oned aspect, and many of its houses date from the days when the Pilgrim Fathers made their first attempt to leave England. The very first effort failed, through the treachery of the captain of the vessel in which they were to take pa.s.sage. They suffered a month's imprisonment, but shortly afterwards made another attempt to get away from the coast on a Dutch s.h.i.+p. This was only partially successful, for William Brewster and a few others only, reached Amsterdam, the women and the rest of the party having fallen into the hands of a detachment of soldiers. Brewster, however, by untiring efforts got all the rest over to Holland.

It was in 1620 that the Pilgrim Fathers finally set out on their voyage to America. (See Index, Plymouth.) The greatest glory of Boston is "The Stump," the highly unsuitable name given to its magnificent church tower, 300 feet high, and a landmark all over the surrounding fen-lands and even out at sea. It seems strangely slight when one is standing within the tower and notices that no floor breaks the great sweep of walls for a great height. The large perpendicular windows also help to give an impression of frailty. The foundation stone, however, was laid as long ago as 1309, and the structure is not so many years younger.

[Ill.u.s.tration: BOSTON, LINCOLNs.h.i.+RE.

From whence the Pilgrim Fathers sailed in the _Mayflower_.]

WARWICK

=How to get there.=--Train from Paddington. Great Western Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Warwick.

=Distance from London.=--108 miles.

=Average Time.=--Varies between 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 15s. 3d. 10s. 2d. 8s. 1-1/2d.

Return 28s. 3d. 17s. 10d. 16s. 3d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Warwick Arms Hotel," "Woolpack Hotel," "Globe Hotel," etc.

A charge of one s.h.i.+lling is made for admission to Warwick Castle, the gardens and state apartments being shown to visitors.

Warwick is a small but historic town, charmingly situated on the River Avon, and dominated by its castle, one of the very few baronial castles still remaining entire. The town was destroyed by the Danes, but it was rebuilt by King Alfred's Ethelfleda, who also built a fortress on an artificial mound, overlooking the river. By the orders of William I. the castle was enlarged, and afterwards given by the Conqueror to Henry de Newburgh, whom he made the first Earl of Warwick of the Norman line. The castle was of such strength that when, in the reign of Henry III., it became the property of Margery, sister of Thomas de Newburgh, she was informed that she would not be allowed to marry any one in whom the king had not great confidence. The castle afterwards pa.s.sed into the hands of the Beauchamps, in whose family it remained until 1445, when the heiress, Anne, married Richard Neville, the "King-maker," who took the t.i.tle of Earl of Warwick. The t.i.tle without the estates was given by James I. to Robert, Lord Rich. The castle was given to Sir Fulke Greville, afterwards Lord Brooke. In 1759, when Edward Rich died without issue, Francis Greville was made Earl of Warwick, with whose descendants the estates have since remained. The entrance to the castle is along a winding road cut for more than 100 yards out of the solid rock. The castle as it now stands is a splendid specimen of the fourteenth-century stronghold built in the transition period, when the mere fortress was being superseded by a building of more grace and comfort. St. Mary's Church in Warwick was rebuilt in the reign of Queen Anne, the former church, built by Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, having been destroyed by fire in 1694. Guy's Cliff, situated 1-1/4 miles from Warwick, is a most picturesque spot, and is celebrated, according to tradition, as the retreat of Guy of Warwick.

A charge of threepence each person (no fee less than sixpence) is made, for admission to St. Mary's Church.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._

WARWICK CASTLE ON THE AVON.

One of the very few baronial castles still remaining entire.]

GLOUCESTER AND ITS CATHEDRAL

=How to get there.=--Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly.

=Nearest Station.=--Gloucester.

=Distance from London.=--114 miles.

=Average Time.=--Varies between 2-3/4 to 3-1/2 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 19s. 0d. 12s. 0d. 9s. 6d.

Return 33s. 3d. 21s. 0d. ...

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Bell Hotel," "New Inn Hotel,"

"The Wellington Hotel," and others.

=Alternative Route.=--None.

Gloucester is one of the most thriving cities in the south of England.

It has been a town of some description from quite early times, for the British had a fortress on the site which the Romans are believed to have occupied as a strong position on the road into Wales. The Danes repeatedly made incursions into this part of the country, and Gloucester suffered very much from their ravages; but probably through the fact that the kings of Mercia inst.i.tuted a palace and priory there, the city seems to have had sufficient strength to recover after each disaster.

Gloucester was even of sufficient importance for Edward the Confessor to have kept his courts there for a considerable time. Being in the west country, it naturally suffered severely during the parliamentary struggle, and a great portion of the city was destroyed. But although the town lost many of its old buildings at this time, it has still a good deal of antiquity to boast, and for this reason alone is attractive to the stranger. Its main streets are modelled on the Roman plan of a cross, the four arms bearing the names North, South, East and West-gate Streets.

The cathedral is not many minutes' walk from the railway station, and is remarkable for its influence upon the English architecture which succeeded it, for it directed the course of the curvilinear movement in the direction of the Perpendicular style of Gothic. After remaining uncopied for a few years, the new style spread over the length and breadth of England. The east window is remarkable as being one of the largest in the world. Portions of the cathedral may possibly date from pre-Norman days, but according to the records, the earliest date is 1088. The tower was completed in 1518, and is with the cloisters almost without equal in this country for beauty and perfection. The cathedral contains the tomb of Osric, King of Northumbria, which was recently opened and found to contain the bones within a wooden coffin.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._

GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL.

Showing the east window, which is one of the largest in the world.]

NORFOLK BROADS

=How to get there.=--Train from Liverpool Street. Gt. Eastern Rly.

=Nearest Station.=--Norwich.

=Distance from London.=--114 miles.

=Average Time.--Varies between 2-1/2 to 4-1/4 hours.