What to See in England Part 8

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._

THE PANTILES, TUNBRIDGE WELLS.]

THE QUINTAIN POST AT OFFHAM AND MALLING ABBEY

=How to get there.=--Train from Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, Ludgate Hill, or St. Paul's. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--West Malling (1 mile from Offham).

=Distance from London.=--36 miles.

=Average Time.=--1-1/2 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 5s. 11d. 3s. 9d. 2s. 11-1/2d.

Return 10s. 4d. 7s. 6d. 3s. 11d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"George Hotel" at West Malling.

=Alternative Route.=--None.

On the green at Offham, an out-of-the-way Kentish village, stands the only quintain post in England. It consists of a tall white post, having a spike at the top, upon which revolves a cross-bar. This portion, which turns on the spike, has a fairly broad square end covered with small holes, while at the opposite end hangs a billet of wood.

The pastime consisted in riding on horseback at the broad end and aiming a lance at one of the holes. The rider had to duck his head at the same instant, in order to save himself from the billet which swung round immediately the lance-point caught the opposite end. Only those who were very agile saved themselves from a nasty blow. Instead of a billet, a bag containing sand or mould would sometimes be suspended on the cross-bar. This would swing round with sufficient force to unseat the rider.

This quintain post is undoubtedly one of the most interesting survivals of the pastimes of the "good old days." The owners of the adjoining house have been required to keep the quintain post in a good state of repair, and it is doubtless to this stipulation in the t.i.tle-deeds of the property that we owe the existence of this unique relic.

The ruins of Malling Abbey, now the property of an Anglican sisterhood, are extremely interesting. The abbey was founded in 1090, and was given to the nun Avicia by the famous Gundulf of Rochester. The keep of St.

Leonard, not far from the abbey, was also built by Gundulf, who is responsible for the White Tower of the Tower of London. This St.

Leonard's Tower is said to be of earlier character than any keep in Normandy. Permission to see the ruins must be obtained from the abbess or chaplain, and visitors are expected to give a small contribution towards the restoration fund.

[Ill.u.s.tration: OFFHAM.

The Quintain Post on the Green.]

EVERSLEY

THE HOME OF CHARLES KINGSLEY

=How to get there.=--Train from Waterloo. South-Western Railway.

=Nearest Stations.=--Wokingham, 5 miles; Winchfield, 7 miles.

=Distance from London.=--Wokingham, 36-1/2 miles; Winchfield, 39 miles.

=Average Time.=--Wokingham, 2 hours; Winchfield, 1-1/2 hours.

=Fares.=-- Single. Return.

1st 2nd 3rd 1st 2nd 3rd Wokingham 5s. 6d. 3s. 9d. 3s. 0d. 9s. 0d. 6s. 6d. 6s. 0d.

Winchfield 6s. 6d. 4s. 0d. 3s. 3d. 11s. 6d. 7s. 2d. 6s. 6d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--Small village inn at Eversley. "George Hotel" at Odiham, 2 miles from Winchfield Station; very old and picturesque.

=Alternative route.=--Train to Wellington College. S.E. and C. Rly.

The drive from Winchfield (7 miles) is chiefly across beautiful heathery commons; from Wokingham the road is more enclosed with hedges. Eversley Church and rectory stand almost alone, save for a farmhouse and barns, being nearly a mile from the other portions of the village. The church is very picturesquely situated on sloping ground, an avenue of yews leading from the lych gate to the porch. Inside, the building has suffered a good deal from restoration, but the pulpit from which Kingsley preached his stirring sermons remains unaltered. The rectory is a very old building which has been modernised on the side fronting on the road. On the lawn stands the group of glorious Scotch firs which Kingsley was never tired of watching. Their boughs sweep downwards and almost touch the gra.s.s, and their great red trunks are a strong contrast to the dense green of the surrounding foliage.

In one of the sitting-rooms is a set of drawers in which Kingsley kept a collection of fossils. His grave is on the side of the church yard nearest the overshadowing branches of the Scotch firs. The Runic cross of white marble is a beautiful one. The head is ornamented with a spray of pa.s.sion flower and bears upon it the words "G.o.d is Love." On the base are the words "Amavimus, amamus, amabimus."

The neighbouring district of Brams.h.i.+ll has still the little thatched cottage where Kingsley used to conduct a little simple service on Sunday afternoons. The whole of the country surrounding Brams.h.i.+ll Park is closely covered with self-sown firs, and the commons interspersed among the forest lands are covered with heather and gorse. This was the country Kingsley loved, whether he was riding over it with the local pack of foxhounds or on a visit to one of his paris.h.i.+oners.

[Ill.u.s.tration: EVERSLEY RECTORY.

The scene of the labours of Charles Kingsley.]

FARNHAM, SURREY

THE HOME OF WILLIAM COBBETT

=How to get there.=--Train from Waterloo. South-Western Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Farnham.

=Distance from London.=--37-3/4 miles.

=Average Time.=--1-1/2 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 6s. 3d. 4s. 0d. 3s. 1-1/2d.

Return 10s. 0d. 7s. 0d. 6s. 3d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"The Bush," "The Railway Hotel,"

"The Lion and Lamb," etc.

=Alternative Route.=--None.

In 1762 William Cobbett, one of the great writers and reformers of the eighteenth century, was born at Farnham, in Surrey. The house is still standing, and is now known as the "Jolly Farmer" Inn. Cobbett gives a very clear account of his early years at Farnham, and some of his youthful escapades are very amusing. One game which he and two of his brothers were never tired of playing was that of rolling each other like barrels down the very steep sandy hill which one may see rising sharply from the back of the "Jolly Farmer." Cobbett left Farnham for London when he was twenty-one, but often revisited his native town in later years. When he died, in 1835, he was buried in Farnham churchyard. The grave faces the porch on the north side of the church. The Rev. Augustus Toplady, who wrote the universally known hymn "Rock of Ages," was born in a little house in West Street, Farnham, which was rebuilt some years ago.

Overlooking the town from the hills to the north is Farnham Castle, the historic seat of the Bishops of Winchester for many generations past. A portion of the buildings, including the keep, are of Norman origin, the rest having been chiefly built by Bishop Fox in the early part of the sixteenth century. During the Parliamentary war Farnham Castle was for some time the headquarters of the Roundhead army operating in this part of the country, Sir William Waller having overcome the garrison placed there by the High Sheriff of Surrey.

Vernon House, in West Street, is notable by reason of the visit paid to it by Charles I. when on his way to London as a prisoner in the hands of the Parliamentary troops. The silk cap which King Charles presented to his host is still preserved in the house by the present owner, a descendant of the Vernon family.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE BIRTHPLACE OF WILLIAM COBBETT AT FARNHAM.]

HINDHEAD, SURREY

=How to get there.=--Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Haslemere.

=Distance from London.=--43 miles.

=Average Time.=--1-1/2 hours.