Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota Part 62

Late August and September is the time when practically all our county fairs are held. It is hoped that the exhibits of fruits, vegetables and flowers will be large and of good quality. Follow the premium list very carefully. Put on the plate the right number of specimens. Pick apples so as to leave stems attached. Quality means specimens of perfect shape for the variety, free of insect or disease injuries, without bruises and well colored. Vegetables should be well selected in every particular.

Select the specimens that you would like to use. The overgrown specimens are not always the best.

[Ill.u.s.tration: A VALLEY LAWN WITH SHRUBBERY ON BORDER OF WOODS.

FORMERLY OCCUPIED BY HENHOUSE AND YARDS.

View on same grounds with garden pergola shown on page 331.]

While it is not the intention to publish anything in this magazine that is misleading or unreliable, yet it must be remembered that the articles published herein recite the experience and opinions of their writers, and this fact must always be noted In estimating their practical value.

THE MINNESOTA HORTICULTURIST

Vol. 44 SEPTEMBER, 1916 No. 9

The Pergola--Its Use and Misuse, Convenience and Expense.

CHAS. H. RAMSDELL, LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT, MINNEAPOLIS.

Let me take you by a brief word picture to Italy, the first home of the pergola as we see it hereabouts today. On the hills and vineyards above the sea, in that sunny land, I can see a beautiful home or villa, seemingly about to tumble off the rocky point on which it rests. Indeed, so scant is the s.p.a.ce about the building that none is left for trees to shade the white house from the heat of the tropic sun. But shade must be had to break the glare of the noonday. The vine and the grape thrive amazingly near the sea, and this necessity evolved the pergola. It was compact, could be made straight or curving, short or long, usually narrow but still supporting to some height the delicate leaves and fruit of the grape. Thus, the Italian secured his shade and made an interesting walk or approach. Because of its open work and light proportions the views of the beautiful Italian sea and sunset were not blocked but thereby improved, each view framed in by the pergola pillars, with the picturesque tracery of the vine clinging to them.

Here was its home, and here it was perfect in its setting. We Americans, in our zeal to secure all that's good, have brought it bodily to our homes. But like much else that's transplanted, we do not always look well to the new conditions as comparable to the old. The pergola is, however, too valuable a garden feature to do without. Our greater care should be to study our need, use the pergola when advisable for some other feature, like one of those ill.u.s.trated on this sheet, when more appropriate.

In construction the pergola is usually made of materials to match the house, sometimes masonry or stone pillars as well as those of wood. The rafters and lighter beams should be made of the most durable wood, preferably cypress, and carefully painted. The pillars may be of cla.s.sic design or of more modern lines, but if they are of a thickness greater than one-seventh of their height, they are not proportionate to the light load they carry. Preferably, the columns rest on and are anch.o.r.ed to concrete or stone footings in the ground. The supporting rafters from pillar to pillar are the heavier construction, the cross beams, etc., the lighter.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Pergola over garden gate, with planting to screen kitchen garden, in Minneapolis.]

The surface of the ground beneath the pergola should be made of weather proof brick or tile floors. They shed the surface water and make it useable in damp weather, not possible with the turf.

The cost of these structures is largely optional with the builder. One clever with carpenter's tools can build one at the cost of his time and lumber. The other limit cannot be set. Masonry pillars, cypress lumber, pavement of the floor, the size, cost of design, etc., will, upon occasion, bring up this cost to that of a small house. I have found a firm in Chicago who will s.h.i.+p one complete, ready to set up, following one's own design, or, after submitting standard designs and photographs of their work. They sell one 8 feet long, 7 feet 6 inches wide and 7 feet 6 inches high with 10-inch columns for $45.00, each additional 8-foot section $25.00, f.o.b., Chicago. The pictures shown of such a pergola are highly attractive. From this figure the cost runs up to $500.00 and even $1,000.00 for circular construction eight-four long and correspondingly heavy. Of course, one can secure low figures from any local millwork company if a good detailed design is available. In this way good distinctive work is possible.

Its uses are infinite. It may serve to connect the architectural lines of the house with garage or other smaller building. It may lead from house to garden, or along an overlook walk along the river or lake. It may encircle a garden pool or an important statue. It can be made an approach to a band stand, or other park building. It will make part of the garden background, but should not be depended upon without the higher foliage so eminently desirable.

[Ill.u.s.tration: A garden pergola erected last summer on clients' grounds south of Lake Harriet, Minneapolis--covering walk from house to garden, sixty five feet long.]

Do not make the mistake of expecting a pergola to serve as a porch or outdoor place to sit or sleep. One needs the roof of a tea house to keep off the evening dews or occasional shower. It cannot be made a large feature of the grounds like a garden. It is not important enough. It will not, without trees and high shrubs behind it, make any background as will a garden wall or lattice. It is no barrier along a street or of any use as a fence or division line. And sometimes the lines of a house or building may be better carried by a rose arch or vine arch without the expense of a pergola. Thus you see it has its limited place, and its use must be decided upon with good taste and judgment.

The pergola is almost incomplete without the growing vines on it. A four years' growth of Beta or Janesville grapes (which we don't have to lay down for winter), will give one a beautiful showing of the hanging fall fruit. The bittersweet is also good with yellow fall fruit. The several varieties of clematis are desirable if combined with the heavier growing grape or woodbine. The woodbine is good for its fall color, although weedy in growth.

The Minnesota honeysuckle should be mentioned, also the Dutchman's Pipe and the Solanum, all good in a limited way. The climbing roses are all right to use, although they lack foliage background and have to be laid down every winter. However, I like to believe the man who designed the first pergola had the grape vine in his mind in so doing, for the two fit conditions like hand and glove.

It is a structure of charming possibilities. Its lines curve as well as any other feature. Its proportions should be always light and graceful.

It adds much to almost any garden or home grounds when carefully used.

Its open work overhead typifies the freedom of the outdoors. It also recalls the vine and its growth to the light. And if we temper our enthusiasm with good sense, its use will be fortunate and the result a happy one.

Packing and Marketing Apples.

H. M. DUNLAP, PRES. ILL. ORCHARD CO., SAVOY, ILLS.

The growing of apples is one problem, the marketing is another. The two are intimately related but entirely different. It is essential in obtaining the best results to first grow good apples for the market.

This, like the darkey's receipt for rabbit soup, comes first. The darkey says, "first kotch your rabbit."

Many a grower who understands fairly well how to produce good fruit is lost when it comes to selling it to an advantage to himself. You notice that I said "to himself." It is often done to the advantage of the buyer. Like most inventors the apple grower usually needs a.s.sistance in selling what he has produced. The grower who connects up with the best methods in this particular gets best results.

No one can long be successful whose methods are not careful and honest in the packing of apples.

_Equipment for Harvesting the Apple Crop._--There are some who insist that the only way to pick apples is to use a basket lined with cloth.

These insist that the use of the basket in picking is the most careful method and that the bruising of the apples is reduced to a minimum. I have, however, seen apples handled very roughly in baskets. The picker hangs the basket on the tree, on the ladder rung, or sets it on the ground and then proceeds to shoot the apples into the basket from distances of one foot or six or eight feet away.

The bottomless picking sack, with broad straps across the shoulders, has come into use within the past few years in many commercial orchards. My experience is that either the basket or sack is good if rightly handled, and either may be objectionable if care is not exercised.

My own experience after using both is in favor of the sack. If care is used no more bruising will be done than with the basket, and it is far more expeditious. Both hands are at liberty for use in the picking. The sack should not be s.h.i.+fted about, and the picker should not be allowed to lean against the rungs of the ladder with the filled sack between.

The sack should be lowered into the picking crate so that the apples have no drop in emptying the sack. Pointed ladders are the best for tall trees and less liable to injure the tree or turn turtle and upset the picker.

A packing house is essential if best results are to be obtained, but many growers use the canvas-covered table in the orchard, picking and packing the product from sixteen to thirty-six trees at a sitting, and then moving the table to the next center, and in this way the entire orchard. In good weather this is not so bad as might seem, but at times the sun is very hot, or sudden showers saturate everything, and in the late fall the weather is too cold and frosty for comfort. On the whole, therefore, a good sized packing house or shed built at a convenient place in or near the orchard is the more desirable method of handling the crop. This building must be large enough to give room for a sorting table three feet wide by sixteen or more feet in length, or, better still, room for an apple grading machine of best pattern, which will occupy about three feet by twenty feet. There should be a s.p.a.ce on one side or end of the building for unloading the bushel crates with which all well regulated orchards should be equipped, when they come from the orchard. These crates can be stacked up four or five deep, and there should be adequate room for these based on necessities. There should be room for at least a day's supply of apple barrels and a place to cooper them up by driving the hoops and nailing same. There should be enough room to face and fill barrels and head them up and to stack up enough for half a day's hauling ahead.

The size of this building will depend upon whether you are barreling 100 barrels per day or 1,000 barrels. For the former a building 28x20 feet will answer very well. For the latter amount 60x100 feet would be none too large. This building should have skylights in the roof. I build these of ordinary greenhouse sash about 3x6 feet, usually putting in two of these in each building on the north or east side of the roof, according to the slope, and directly over the sorting end of the table.

This will give you light an average of thirty minutes more each day and prolong the day's work that much, or at least make it possible to do better work on cloudy days and in the evenings.

The building should be approachable on all four sides with the wagon, and doors either sliding or hinged should open at least ten feet wide for taking apples in and out. For example, I have my sheds arranged to take the fruit as it comes from the orchard on one side of the building.

The number one apples go out one door, and in case I use a grader the number two go out another side. The cider apples also take their route.

The fourth side is used for supplying empty barrels as needed. Thus you see the necessity for getting to all four sides. On the side where the filled barrels are loaded onto the wagon there should be a raised platform so that the loading can be carefully and easily done. A bin for the cider or vinegar apples should be built with a roof on same.

Low-wheeled, platform wagons are needed to haul fruit from the orchard to the packing house.

_The standard barrel of three bushels_ capacity is used generally by the commercial orchardist in preference to the box. Good hoops are growing scarcer every year, and some, including myself, are using two or four of the six hoops required of the twisted splice steel wire variety as being both safer and more economical. In transit or in storage they hold better and do not break and scatter the contents of the barrel over the car floor or storage warehouse.

The best floor for the apple house is concrete. The next best is to cover the ground with coal cinders and lay 2x4 flat on the cinders, filling between them with cinders to a level and nailing the floor boards to these 2x4. This gives a good solid floor at little expense.

The walls are of 4x4 uprights, about eight feet apart, resting on 8812 concrete blocks with a half inch iron rod imbedded in the concrete and countersunk in lower end of upright 44 to keep the latter in place.

Nail ties of 24 are used, and to these are nailed common lumber surfaced. The roof consists of 24 or 26 rafters, usually three feet apart, with 16 boards s.p.a.ced about three feet apart as sheeting. The covering in this case is of galvanized corrugated iron, suitable length, of No. 26 gauge. The doors of this building should be on rollers, and with two or more double doors on each of the four sides to give plenty of light and easy access to and from the building. The roof and dry floor are the important parts of such a building, and you only need the walls as a support and occasionally to break off the wind when weather becomes chilly. What you should avoid in a packing house is narrow doors, dark interior and access from only one or two sides.

_Picking._--I have found it most satisfactory to pick by the bushel, keeping a foreman in the orchard to see that crates are filled full, ladders and apples carefully handled. Each picker is provided with tickets of a certain number which corresponds to the one opposite his name on the sheet tacked to a small board or clip carried by the foreman. Each picker is a.s.signed a tree, and his empty boxes are distributed to him from the wagon. When filled the number is tabulated by the foreman and loaded onto the wagon and hauled to the packing shed.

Here they are stacked up and afterwards emptied onto the sorting tables or machine grader, and from thence into the barrels.

_Hauling to Market._--The barrels when filled are not allowed to lie around, but are hauled immediately to the car or storage. Failure of winter apples to keep in storage may often be traced to the packing shed, where the apples stand in the crates or lie in the barrels for a number of days, perhaps a week or two in warm weather, before they are forwarded to storage. Sometimes delays occur at the storage owing to rush, and apples remain sometimes for a week or ten days in cars before they are unloaded. It behooves the grower not only to watch his own packing house for delays, but the storage company also. In one instance I lost $1,000 on five cars of apples that were without refrigeration five weeks owing to the storage warehouse not being completed. I knew nothing about this until two years afterwards.

Hauling to the station is done on wagons or motor trucks equipped with a rack that permits the barrels being carried lying down, but supported at each end of the barrel so that the weight of the barrel does not come upon the bilge. They can be so racked up that one wagon will carry fifty-five barrels. A three-ton truck will carry forty barrels of apples and haul forty more on trailer. Such an outfit in one of my orchards makes five trips in one day a distance of four miles, traversing forty miles and carrying 400 barrels of apples. One and one-half miles of this is over a well-graded dirt road, and two and one-half over brick and concrete pavement. In our Clay County, Illinois, orchards we have two 12-25 gasoline tractors that are used for cultivating during the summer and for hauling apples in the fall. These machines easily haul 110 barrels of apples on two wagons and make two trips a distance of five miles from orchard to town.

_Loading Cars._--I am surprised at the lack of knowledge of how to properly load barreled apples into cars. Over half the cars going to market are improperly loaded. The best way is to place all the barrels crosswise of the cars with lower tier to the right side of the car, and the second tier the left of the car with the bilge lying in the hollows of the lower tier. The third tier should be at the right side again directly over the lower tier. If a fourth tier is added they should be at the left and directly over the second tier. In this way your apples are loaded to carry with the least injury to the apples. Being uniformly loaded they are easily counted from the top after they are in the car, and your loader can verify his wagon load count after the apples are all in and thus prevent mistakes.