Antigua and the Antiguans Volume I Part 28

It seem'd as if the day was one Sent from beyond the skies, Which shed to earth above the sun, A light of paradise."

Of the first church dedicated to St. Philip no account can be given; but most probably it was built about the year 1690. The second church to that saint was erected about 1717. It was a wooden building, and no doubt possessed but little claim to architectural beauty. The present church is one of the prettiest I have seen in the West Indies. It is built of the smooth freestone, so generally found in Antiguan quarries; the only fault is, that they are cut too small, which, at a distance, gives them more the appearance of white bricks.

The plan, like many of the other Antiguan churches, is cruciform; but there is so much chasteness displayed in the simple arrangement of the interior, that it must please every eye. The large oriel window is furnished with ground-gla.s.s, of the most elegant, yet simple devices; and the neat pulpit and desk,-the altar, gallery, and pulpit rails,-the wooden columns which support the roof,-the pews and doors, painted in excellent representation of rich-grained oak, please by their uniformity.

They are in the gothic style. The decorations of the altar are very plain, merely consisting of the tables of the Commandments, the Lord's Prayer, and the Creed.

Leaving the town of Bermudian Valley (of which I think there is scarcely a relic) "alone in its glory," we come to Parham, the remaining place of trade appointed during the time Col. Rowland Williams held the deputy-governors.h.i.+p of Antigua. Parham takes its name from the t.i.tle of Lord William Willoughby of Parham. In 1697, after the decease of Christopher Codrington, Esq., (the elder,) Parham appears to have been the residence of the lieutenant-governor, in preference to St. John's; and this circ.u.mstance gives rise to the statement of some authors, that Parham was once the capital of the island. It is another of those strangely straggling places whose streets are in many parts bordered with dagger (_aloe vulgaris_) instead of houses; but still it is far superior to Bridgetown, for some of its edifices boast of covered galleries, or balconies, flights of stone steps, and many other decorations.

The parish church of St. Peter's, the second of the name, is an old dismal looking building, whose outward appearance is enough to give the observer a fit of that fas.h.i.+onable complaint, dyspepsia. It was erected in 1754, and affords 300 sittings. St.

Peter's has a chapel-of-ease, the private property of the Rev.

Nat. Gilbert, a descendant of the "founder of Methodism" in Antigua, who was speaker of the house of a.s.sembly in 1764.

From some strange freak, or else from dire necessity, Parham churchyard is situated at about two miles distance from the church and town. It was formerly surrounded by a brick wall, but that is all falling to ruin. A more desolate-looking burying-ground I never saw-not a tree or flower near it; the very birds in their aerial wanderings seem to shun the spot.

At a short distance from St. Peter's is fast rising into existence what will prove, when finished, a very neat and pretty church. It is an irregular octagonal-that is, the sides are not of equal dimensions. It is built of the same kind of stone as St.

Philip's; but has a better effect, from the blocks being cut of larger size. The base of the tower is constructed from the interior; but in its present unfinished state, (1842) with all its multiplicity of scaffolding and frame work, it is impossible to say what will be the effect; except, as I have before remarked, it will no doubt make a pretty appearance when completed. The architect is an Englishman, and the head mason (a black man) appears to be well-versed in the mysteries of his trade, to judge from the excellent smoothness in the joints of the walls, and from a very neat key-stone which he has sculptured. This church is intended to take the name and service from the old one, which will then be dismantled.

Besides the episcopal church, Parham boasts a very neat little chapel belonging to the Wesleyans, with a good stone mission-house and school-room adjoining. The general number of scholars at this school is seventy, including girls and boys; although upon our visit to it, there were not more than thirty-five. The school-room is a very airy and commodious building, capable of containing 600 or 700 persons. The children which compose the school are of every age, from three to fourteen. The instruction given them is plain, but good- scriptural knowledge, reading, spelling, writing, and arithmetic, with needlework for the girls. There are no pictorial embellishments in this school-room, merely a few selections from the Scriptures, cards of multiplication, and some black-painted boards upon which the children practise their little sums with a piece of chalk.

The Wesleyan missionary stationed at Parham, the Rev. Mr.

Keatley, (who appears to be a very amiable man,) mentioned as a well-known fact, that the schools in the country were always better attended the three first days in the week, and that after that period very few children made their appearance. Probably this is owing to their parents employing them in some domestic business which is more necessary at the close than at the beginning of the week.

Parham harbour, although it affords safe anchorage when gained, is dangerous to the inexperienced navigator from the number of shoals and reefs which enc.u.mber its approach. It also contains some few islands, of which Bethel's Island is the largest. This harbour is protected from the inroads of the enemy by Port Byam, erected upon Barnacle Point, and which derives its name from Colonel Edward Byam, some-time governor of Antigua. It is said that within the precincts of this fort, Colonel Byam had a small room erected, where he was in the habit of receiving and entertaining a party of Caribs, who came yearly from some of the neighbouring islands, in order to smoke their calumets of peace with that gentleman.

To the southward of Parham rises a curious hill, which is supposed to be the work of art, and to have answered for the burying-place of the ancient inhabitants, the Caribs. An old writer speaking of this tumulus, describes it as "in form a long square, very regular in all its parts, lessening gradually from its base to the top, which is flat, and may be from five to six hundred feet long, and from forty to fifty feet high."

[97] From the summit of Monk's Hill, the eye can range over the whole island of Antigua, with the exception of one part, where the mountains intervene. The princ.i.p.al work, named Fort George, is mounted with pieces of cannon, said to have been taken in the "Foudroyant" man-of-war, in one of the many conflicts between the French and English.

[98] For the genealogy, and a general account of this family, see Appendix.

CHAPTER XXVII.

Forts and fortifications-Temporary ones-The present forts-Fort James-Its situation and approach-Rat Island Battery, its appellation, lunatic asylum, and flag-staff-Goat Hill-Steep ascent-Schools in St. John's.

It might be imagined that where nature has done so much for her favourite isle in the way of barricading it, by giving to Antigua a bold rocky coast, _art_, in the shape of forts and batteries, would be less called for. This, however, is not the case; the island coaster meets with many an embattled point, and many a sea-girt cliff supports the frowning walls of a battery.

The forts in Antigua are Fort James, Rat Island Battery, Goat Hill or Fort Barrington, Old Fort, Johnston's Point Fort, Old Road Fort, Falmouth Fort, Fort Black's Point, Fort Charlotte and Fort Berkley at the entrance of English Harbour, Fort Christian, Fort Isaac, Fort William, Fort Harman, Flat Point Fort, Old Fort, and Fort Byam; Parham Harbour, d.i.c.kenson's Point Battery, Corbison's Fort, and Fort Hamilton. Of these, the greater part were merely temporary fortifications erected in those days of warfare when the French and Caribs, in their shallops and perrigoas, used to make such frequent attacks upon the island.

Still, dismantled as many of these forts became in after-years, when peace spread her soft pinions over the lovely group of the Antilles, they retained their _names_, and served as sinecures to those persons who, from favouritism or superannuation, were exempted from militia duty, prior to the abolition of that body during the administration of Sir W. Colebrooke.[99]

The fortifications at present in use are, Fort James, Rat Island Battery, Goat Hill, Fort George, Fort Johnston's Point, Old Road Fort, Monk's Hill, and the forts at English Harbour.

Fort James was erected about the year 1704-5, on a spot of ground known as St. John's Point, which was given to his majesty Charles II., by Col. James Vaughan, in 1680. It is situated at the entrance of St. John's Harbour, and commands at once a beautiful and extensive view, while, from its frowning battlements, a deadly and raking fire could be poured upon the adventurous enemy who dared its anger. The rock upon which it is built appears to overhang the sea; and the waves, from constantly fretting and foaming around its base, have completely undermined it. If all proper precautions be not taken, the fort and its accompaniments will, some day, probably make a rapid descent into the yawning gulf beneath, and its avenging weapons no longer vomit forth their flaming breath upon the dauntless vessel who dares to pa.s.s it, without tendering to its captain his expected dole.[100]

Fort James mounts but few guns, the rest are making themselves beds deep in the earth. This is one of the happy results of peace. Those murderous weapons repose in quietness, and that they may ever do so is my fervent prayer. A gun, however, is fired at sunrise and sunset; and her majesty's s.h.i.+ps, as well as vessels of war belonging to other nations, are complimented with a grand discharge. The arrival and departure of the governor, members of council, &c., also call for a similar mark of honour. Serious accidents sometimes occur at such periods. A few months ago one of the matrosses had his arm so severely shattered by overloading the instrument when saluting a French man-of-war, that it became necessary to amputate the limb immediately. He has now happily regained his former health, and is employed upon the fort as a schoolmaster.

The captain of Fort James receives 150l. sterling per annum, and the residence is one that many would gladly inhabit. Under him are stationed twelve matrosses, who receive very good pay. For the use of these last-mentioned persons, a temporary chapel has been established within these last few years, through the instrumentality of the Rev. John Horsford, Wesleyan missionary, son to the former governor of the fort, by which happy means they are enabled to attend Divine service once on the Lord's day.

The road from the capital to Fort James, a distance of about four miles, is not very noted for the interest it displays. As the traveller nears the fort, an arm of the sea runs far inland, twisting and twining its rippling waters amid the clumps of aquatic shrubs in a most snake-like manner. Through this, equestrians and pedestrians, the emblazoned carriage, and the more humble gig, alike have to pa.s.s, while shoals of fairy-like fish dart from their parent waters in all directions; and as the sunbeams catch their silvery scales, almost blind the looker-on with their dazzling coruscations.

Rat Island Battery is of itself a most picturesque object, as the stranger approaches Antigua. It lies within the harbour of St.

John's, and takes its name from some fancied resemblance to that most destructive little quadruped, a rat. I cannot say this isapparent to my eyes, but the believers in such a similitude say that the rock personates the body of the animal, while the causeway which connects it to the main land plays the part of a tail. I have already mentioned the lunatic asylum lately erected upon this rock, whose whitened walls look cheerfully down upon the waters beneath, and little tells the observer how many darkened minds wander within them. The flag-staff upon Rat Island is often gaily decorated with various flags, and with a beating heart my eyes have often sought it, for there I learn the tidings that another packet has arrived from my native land, and, as I hope, brought me one of those little packages traced with "a grey goose-quill," and telling that those who are so dear to me are enjoying health and happiness in Old England.

Goat Hill crowns the summit of a lofty hill upon the opposite side of the harbour to Fort James. When pa.s.sing it by sea, our surprise is excited when we consider how it is possible to transport the heavy artillery and stores up the steep ascent; but the road is winding, and the difficulty is much sooner overcome than would be supposed. It was on the site of this fort that the French landed, in that memorable attack upon, and reduction of, the island in 1666. Near the base of Goat Hill, two peculiar shaped and blackened rocks rear their bare heads above the sea, around which the waves dash their l.u.s.trous foam with loud and angry moanings. The remaining forts, with the salaries of their several captains, and the means by which they are paid, will be found in the statistical portion of this work.

From the forts, I proceed to mention the "Mico Charity" School at St. John's, where instruction is given in various branches of knowledge. Upon my visit to this school, I must say I was surprised to find among the dirty ragged little negroes, which comprised it generally, a herd of geographers, historians, and grammarians. The head-master happened to be absent, but a messenger was immediately despatched to call him; and, upon his arrival, the examination commenced, which I left entirely to themselves, wis.h.i.+ng to see their own mode of tuition.

The room, or rather rooms, were hung round with various pictorial embellishments, consisting of some very beautiful lithographed designs, representing the most interesting and affecting scenes in the Old and New Testament-birds and animals, fruits and flowers, steam apparatuses, machinery of all descriptions, modes of every branch of agriculture, and some excellent maps.

A stand was placed in the middle of the apartment, and a boy of about twelve or thirteen took his station by the side of it, with the "wand of office" in his hand. It was now announced by the master-"Those boys who wish to ask questions, please hold up their hands," when immediately about eight or ten, of the same age as the one stationed in the middle of the room, replied by the motion required, while an air of animation sprang to their eyes, and lightened the dusky hue of their complexions. The first question was proposed by a boy, black as the late member of parliament's celebrated blacking, but whose scanty habiliments bore many a mark from the finger of time, and many a stain upon their once fair colour. "Who was Hannibal?" Answer, from the boy near the stand-"A Carthaginian general, who defeated the Romans in two engagements."

It was now his turn to propound-"How is the true situation of any place upon the globe shewn?" Answer, from an intelligent-looking little mongrel boy, who was in such haste to reply, that it called for the aid of the master to render his rapid utterance understood-"By the intersection of that imaginary circle, which we call a parallel of lat.i.tude, with the meridian of the place in question." Having replied to this query, he asked the boy at the stand-"Who was the first Roman emperor that visited England, then called Britain, and in what year?"

This was a puzzler. He could not answer to it; so he lost his conspicuous station, which was occupied by the more fortunate querist.

Various other questions were then proposed in history and chronology; after which, an examination in the Old and New Testaments commenced-the interrogatories being still propounded by the boy: "Who was the man that climbed up into the tree, to see Jesus pa.s.s?" "Zaccheus."-"Where did Moses die?" inquired a pretty little girl. "On Mount Pisgah," was the answer. A tall, rather grim-looking boy, started up, and, in a sepulchral-toned voice, asked-"What is the difference between Pisgah and Nebo?"- "Nebo appears to have been a point, or pinnacle, of Mount Pisgah," replied a shrimpish boy by his side.

An excellent map of the world was then brought, and attached to the stand in the middle of the apartment, so that the eyes of the whole school could rest upon it. The greater and lesser circles were then pointed out, the meaning of longitude and lat.i.tude defined, the form and divisions of the earth mentioned and descanted upon, and the sun's path through the ecliptic described.

The question was then proposed to the school-"Would you like to sing?"-"Yes," from every lip. "You must promise to sing very soft and sweet," quoth the master. "Soft and sweet," reverberated from the whole of the scholars, like the tongue of an echo. Then came the "soft and sweet," as they termed it; and if the _burden_ of a song could give _melody_ to the lips, it would have been more sweet than "the breath of the south wind upon a bed of violets,"

as Avon's favoured bard once sang; for it was all about our dear little Queen Victoria. To the tune of this loyal ditty they marched round the room, each cla.s.s divided by their several teachers, carrying a pile of books, and then formed into semicircles, to be exercised in reading, writing, arithmetic, spelling, and grammar. Their spelling was very fair; many of them wrote a good hand; they all appeared conversant with the four first rules of arithmetic; and as for grammar, they talked about present tenses, and perfect participles, nouns, adverbs, and conjunctions, definites and indefinites, until I began to think they must have been born with a "Lindley Murray" in their mouths.

I wish I could speak as well of their reading; but I suppose boys who talk about Hannibal and Artaxerxes, ecliptics and globular projections, and descant upon the merit of tenses, esteem it too common-place to read correctly words of two or three syllables.

The average number of boys and girls attending this school is from 140 to 160; although, from the prevalence of the measles upon my visit, there were not more than half that number there.

Young men are also received in this establishment as candidates for teachers; 100 of whom have, within these last four years, been disseminated throughout the schools in Antigua, and some of the other West India Islands, as fully qualified for instructing the rising generation in all the necessary branches of education.

After experiencing the erudition of these advanced scholars, we pa.s.sed into another part of the establishment appropriated to the use of the infant school. Here we found about sixty little creatures, two or three, to eight or ten years of age, seated upon their benches, raised one above the other-the elder ones occupying the upper tier.

This apartment was also garnished with its pretty prints and Brobdignagian alphabets, and possessed its coloured maps and stands. The exercises were conducted in a similar manner as those in the other part of the seminary: an intelligent-looking little black boy taking his place by the centre stand, beside the map of Palestine, and answering very fluently the various questions proposed to him by the other children, at the same time pointing out the places. "Where did Jesus turn water into wine?" asked one of the little girls. "Cana, in Galilee."-"Who got his cedars from Lebanon?"-"Solomon," &c. They then sang one of their pretty little songs, to the tune of which they marched round the room, and, formed into cla.s.ses, read, from a selection of pieces, "Dr.

Franklin's Whistle." It was too difficult for them, and they bungled sadly through it; for although, like the elder pupils, they were geographers and historians, they had not made much progress in the art of reading. Their lessons over, they sang an anthem; and then, after a short prayer offered up by the master, the school broke up, and away they started with whoop and song, leaving me to ponder in my brain how far their manifold knowledge would benefit their after progress through life.

Besides the Wesleyan and Mico schools, Antigua is further supplied with "repositories of learning," belonging to the established church and the Moravians. Our worthy rector, zealous in every good work, has a pleasing little infant-school near the rectory, besides schools in various other parts of the town and country. The Moravians have large schools at their different settlements; and a boys' and girls' school, with infant-school attached, adjoining their chapel in St. John's. I visited this last-mentioned school twice; but I am unable to speak of the acquirements of the scholars-they having been dismissed soon after my entrance, upon both occasions. They appear to cultivate the art of singing; for I heard them join in Mrs. Hemans' "Better Land," to the accompaniment of a small, but very sweet-toned organ, played by their superintendent. If I may be allowed to judge of the manners of the children, (which, I own, would not be quite right,) by those of the female teacher, I should be inclined to say, they were far behind any of the other schools I have visited in the island; for she appeared totally deficient in politeness or agreeable behaviour.

I have thus endeavoured to shew that Antigua abounds in schools- the exact number of which will be found in the chapter on statistics. I sincerely hope that the benefits arising from them may be permanently felt by the lower cla.s.ses, and that the patrons of these schools may reap the reward of their philanthropy. There are some sad examples: (sorry am I to be compelled to say so!) where, instead of improving, education has but tended to lead further into the paths of error; for the very pa.s.sages of Scripture that have been taught them-the doctrines of salvation which have been inculcated, these unhappy creatures pervert to raise their unG.o.dly mirth. Oh, how do our ears become shocked at every turn of the street, at every hour of the day, by the language of this cla.s.s of persons! while that great and holy name, "at which every knee shall bow," is bandied about as a common interjection.

There are some to be met with among the negroes whose display of learning is very ludicrous. We have a servant now living with us who often calls up from me an involuntary smile. I heard her speaking the other evening to a fellow-servant, whose name is Diana. "Diana, my G.o.ddess! come here. Let me see, Diana was the G.o.ddess of _truth_, and Junus the G.o.ddess of _sleep_, and so you must not tell me a story, or go to sleep!" Diana did not appear to comprehend this burst of eloquence, and so her friend went on to explain to her, that as "_Airy_ was the ram, and _Callus_ the bull, Virgo was a lion, and Quaris was a water-pot;" she must bow to her superior knowledge in everything. To this, Diana humbly a.s.sented with "Ees, Miss Charlotte!" accompanied by a stare of amazement. I don't wonder, however, at poor Diana's surprise at her friend's knowledge; I am sure she often startles me. Another evening, I saw her standing in the yard, with outstretched arms, and upturned eyes, gazing upon a bright star, which twinkled above, while in a very lackadaisical tone, she exclaimed, "Oh, Mars! _invoke_ me by thy rays!"

I hope, however, what I have said in this last page will not discountenance those worthy characters who are employed in opening the book of knowledge to the eyes of the ignorant. In the words of a much-admired writer, "the delightful hope may be cherished by him who shall bring his mite for the promotion of the Lancastrian system of instruction for giving knowledge to the ignorant-the hope that he is providing for the display of a genius in works of the highest utility, which might otherwise have expended itself in a career of infamous contrivance, long operating as a pest to society, terminating in the ignominious destruction of the victim of the want of education. And when the intimate connexion between _ignorance_ and vice is considered, surely all who wish to lessen the sum of the latter will a.s.sist the endeavours that are now making to plant the tree of knowledge amid the desert and deformed waste;-to convert that which is now cheerless and blank into a field of profuse beauty teeming with the real wealth and strength of nations."