Narrative of the surveying voyages of His Majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle Part 27

The pico, which is a barnacle, grows to a very large size; at Concepcion, however, it is still larger, being six or seven inches in length. It has, when properly cooked, very much the flavour of a crab, and by the inhabitants of this Archipelago is considered preferable to any other sh.e.l.l-fish.

Before concluding this imperfect description of the sh.e.l.l-fish of Chiloe, the piure claims some consideration, if it be only for its peculiar and disagreeable appearance. It was considered by Molina as a genus allied to _Ascidia_ (Mol. i. 214), none of the varieties of which are inviting in their look, as an edible substance, but the piure is still less so. It is thus described by Molina: "The piure, scarcely deserving the name of a living animal, is as remarkable for its figure, as for the manner in which it is lodged. The body is about the size and shape of a small pear, an inch in diameter; or it may be described as a small, conical, fleshy bag, of a red colour, filled with saline liquor, and provided with two trunks or processes in the upper part, one of which is the mouth, similar to that of the Tetias; and between these processes are seen two small, black, and s.h.i.+ning points, which are supposed to be the eyes. I could distinguish no other organs, nor any viscera in the fleshy substance of which it is composed, which is smooth without and spongy within. They are extremely sensitive, and when touched, spout water out of both apertures. These small animals are shut up in a firm, but glutinous case, of various shapes; one case often contains eight or ten distinct bodies, separated from each other by cells, formed of a strong membraneous substance. They are attached to rocks or stones, under water, excepting when left uncovered by a low tide.

The natives eat them boiled, or roasted in their sh.e.l.ls. They also dry them for exportation to the province of Cusco, where their flavour is much esteemed, and considered equal to that of the lobster."

At Chiloe, the piure is said to be a remedy for barrenness; and to such an extent has this idea prevailed, that a Chilote woman, eating this fish, literally says, if asked what she is doing, that "she is making children."

One would not, however, suppose, from the number of children which are seen {293} crowding round the doors, that the Chilotes had any necessity for such food.

If one may judge from the few applications made to our medical men for advice, the climate is either very healthy, or the natives prefer their own mode of cure. They have very few medical advisers, and those few are not held in much estimation, being people of little or no education. A prejudice against medical men has been, even in late years, extended to foreign pract.i.tioners, and carried to great lengths. This illiberal feeling is, however, fast wearing away; but, among the lower orders, the application of herbs and other simples is yet wholly resorted to for the removal of their complaints. One day, when I was employed in making some astronomical observations, at Sandy Point, a woman pa.s.sed me, and forcing her way through a thicket of th.o.r.n.y plants, began to gather branches of a species of arbutus (_A. rigida._), a small shrubby plant, which is every where abundant, especially to the south, and in the Strait of Magalhaens.

My curiosity prompted me to inquire her reason for collecting it with such apparent anxiety. She replied, with a desponding air, "It is chaura[159]

for a poor, sick child. These branches," she said, "are to be put into the fire, and, being green, will produce a thick smoke, and yield a very strong aromatic smell. The child, who is only five months old, is to be held over it, which, as they say, is a good remedy; but," she added, with an air of doubt, "I know not (dicen que es bueno, pero yo no se)." "Who says so?" I asked. "Los que saben (those who know)," replied the half-credulous mother, with a deep sigh, partly doubting the efficacy of the remedy, but unwilling to lose the advantages of whatever virtue it might possess, for the benefit of her sick infant.

The climate of Chiloe is considered, by those who live in other parts of Chile, to be "rigorous, cold, and damp." Certainly there is much reason for such an opinion, particularly in the winter months, when it almost always rains, and the wind, with little cessation, blows hard, from N. to N.W., and, {294} by the W. to S.W.; but notwithstanding the great quant.i.ty of rain that falls, the evaporation is great, and it cannot therefore be called unhealthy; indeed, from experience, it is considered quite otherwise. Agueros, to whose excellent account of Chiloe I have so often referred, dilates much upon this subject, and from having resided there a considerable time, may be taken as the best authority. Those who now reside upon the island speak very much against it, and all whom I met, previous to my visit, condemned it, as being "the worst in the world." Perhaps we, who had lately been experiencing a much more disagreeable climate, went to Chiloe with the expectation of finding it exceed in severity that to which we had been accustomed in the Strait of Magalhaens, but we found ourselves agreeably mistaken. Our visit certainly was in the better season, and we had, perhaps, no right to form a decided opinion upon the other part of the year. I shall, therefore, first quote Agueros, and then describe what we found the weather from September to December; yet as these months were considered by the inhabitants to be finer than is usual at that season, we can only form a vague idea of the spring and summer. For the autumn and winter I must depend upon the accounts of others.

After explaining the contra-position of the seasons, to what is experienced north of the equator, with regard to the months of the year; Agueros says, "Chiloe has also its four seasons, but does not enjoy the benefit of those changes, as do other parts of Chile; for there is neither that abundance of fruit, nor are its fields adorned with so many and such beautiful flowers, and useful medicinal plants. The summer is the best time; for in the month of January, from ten o'clock in the morning till three in the afternoon, the heat is excessive. Between these hours, however, a sea-breeze, which is called 'Vira-zon,' refreshes the air. In the winter the temperature is very cold; but the frosts are by no means so severe as in Europe. I have never seen ice, even in the small streams, nor does snow lie any length of time on the ground.

"In the winter months, as well as in other parts of the year, there are falls of rain, and heavy gales from N.N.W., and west, {295} which last frequently for the whole moon, with scarcely a cessation, and the wind, at times, is so furious, that the houses are not secure, and the largest trees are torn up by the roots. The weather, when it is fine, cannot be depended upon for any length of time; not even in summer; for in the month of January I have frequently experienced gales, and rain, as severe and copious as in the winter. During the summer months southerly winds are more prevalent, and, while they last, the weather is fine, and clear, and the air particularly dry.

"Although the winter months, and a considerable part of the other seasons, are very disagreeable, owing to the severity of the winds, and exceeding quant.i.ty of rain, it cannot be denied that the climate is healthy. In Chiloe no epidemic diseases are experienced. The small-pox and measles are not known;[160] nor have tertian fevers, so common in the north, ever been experienced on the island. Spotted fever (tabardillo), and acute pains in the stomach, are the only disorders to which the inhabitants of this archipelago are subject. Thunder and lightning are rarely experienced; but earthquakes have occurred at intervals. In the year 1633 the church and houses were destroyed, and in the year 1737 much damage to the village of Isla grande was caused by earthquakes."

So far Agueros. On the whole, the climate is not so unfavourable as we had been led to expect from all that we had heard.

Captain Fitz Roy arrived there in July, during the latter part of which, and the month of August, the weather was very wet, with some heavy gales from the N.W.; but in his Meteorological Journal for those months there is no record of the thermometer falling below 38, and it is recorded to have fallen to that degree only on one occasion, the general height being from 45 to 50. The first part and the middle of September were boisterous and wet; but towards the end of the month the wind was chiefly from the southward, and the weather dry and {296} extremely fine. In October it was rather changeable; but for the last ten days, with the exception of one, on which there was a fresh gale with a heavy fall of rain, it was fine and dry, and the winds were moderate.

The month of November was generally fine, but the first half of December continued tempestuous and wet. The mean temperature of the months, and other meteorological remarks, are as follows:

Column Headings: A - 3 P.M. water at anch.

B - Pressure reduced to 32.

C - Dew Point.

D - Dew Point less than Air.

E - Expansion.

F - Dryness by Thermo. Scales.

G - Weight of a cubic foot of air.

H - Quant.i.ty fallen.

I - Quant.i.ty evaporated.

J - Remaining in the gage at end of month.

+-------------+-------------------+------+----------------------------+ 1829 Temperature Hygrometer (Daniells') +-------------+-------------------+------+----------------------------+ Mean Ex. of at 9 A.M. Temp. ----+----+----+---- Months Air A Max. Min. B C D E F G +-------------+----+----+----+----+------+----+----+-----+-----+------+ July 22 days 46.9 47.9 -- -- 29.927 -- -- -- -- -- Aug. 31 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Sept.30 47 -- 64.5 35.2 30.061 40.9 6.18 296.9 806.2 3.3854 Oct. 31 50.9 -- 73 37 29.979 45.8 5.14 349.8 845.0 3.9575 Nov. 30 53.5 -- 68.5 42 29.898 48.4 4.79 416.2 844.5 4.3361 +-------------+----+----+----+----+------+----+----+-----+-----+------+

+-------------+-----+-----+---------+-----+ 1829 No. of Days Rain +-------------+-----+-----+---------+-----+ Months Fine. Rain. H I J +-------------+-----+-----+----+----+-----+ July 22 days -- -- -- -- -- Aug. 31 -- -- -- -- -- Sept.30 7 7 1.68 0.48 1.2 Oct. 31 21 10 4.22 2.25 1.97 Nov. 30 14 16 4.89 2.28 2.61 +-------------+-----+-----+----+----+-----+

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This table partly shows the state of the weather during three spring months. The greatest quant.i.ty of rain in the gage at the end of the month of November did not exceed 2.6 inches. At St. Martin's Cove, near Cape Horn, after thirty days' observation, the rain-gage contained eight inches; so that although Chiloe bears the character of being a very wet place, it is not one-third so bad as Cape Horn. The time of our visit to San Carlos was certainly the finest part of the year; and I believe that the weather we experienced was unusually dry even for the season; therefore, the above table does not present a fair criterion of the climate: I do not, however, think it is by any means so bad as has been represented.

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CHAPTER XVII.

Chiloe the last Spanish possession in South America--Freyre's Expedition--Failure--Second Expedition under Freyre and Blanco-- Quintanilla's capitulation--Chiloe taken--Aldunate placed in command-- Chiloe a dependency of Chile--Beagle sails to sea coast of Tierra del Fuego--Adelaide repaired--Adelaide sails--Adventure goes to Valparaiso-- Juan Fernandez--Fishery--Coats--Dogs--Geology--Botany--Sh.e.l.ls--Spanish accounts--Anson's voyage--Talcahuano--Concepcion--Pinoleo--Araucanian Indians--Re-enter the Strait of Maghalhaens--Fuegians.

The island of Chiloe was the last place the King of Spain possessed in South America; and even to this day he is not without friends there, who would gladly restore his absolute monarchy, notwithstanding the advantages that are acknowledged to have been derived from the change of masters, and the consequent opening of trade, which has added very much to the comfort, as well as civilization of the inhabitants.

During the struggle for independence, this island was too distant from the seat of war to render it important; but when all other parts of Chile were freed from the king's troops, the new government despatched an expedition, consisting of between three and four thousand men, commanded by the Director-General Freyre, to attack it. Upon the appearance of this expedition off the harbour of San Carlos, the Spanish governor, Quintanilla, was inclined to capitulate; but, instead of anchoring in the roads, the squadron proceeded to Chacao, landed troops there, and despatched some of their forces to Castro, where they were repulsed by the Spanish and native troops, and obliged to re-embark. In this interval, one of the s.h.i.+ps left the squadron, and returned to Valparaiso, whence she was immediately ordered back; but meanwhile the Director had embarked his troops, and returned to Concepcion. Not long afterwards, in January 1826, a second expedition, under the same general, sailed from Valdivia, convoyed by a strong squadron, under the command of Admiral Blanco.

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"Upon this occasion the troops landed, on the 8th, at the little inlet of the Bay of Huechucucuy; and Fort Corona was immediately taken. On the 10th, the disembarkation of the troops was completed. A battalion was left to mask Fort Aguy, while a force, under Colonel Aldunate, pa.s.sed on, and took the battery of Barcacura. On the 10th, Admiral Blanco s.h.i.+fted his flag; and, leaving the O'Higgins outside, stood into the bay with the rest of the squadron, which anch.o.r.ed off Barcacura.

"The governor, Quintanilla, with upwards of three thousand Royalists, took up a strong position on a hill, at the S.E. side of the bay, flanked on the left by an impenetrable wood, on the right by the sh.o.r.e, and supported by three gun-boats in shallow water. These were taken by the boats of the squadron, under Captain Bell, and turned against the Royalists. Their position was thus enfiladed, and they retired. Freyre then advanced: some skirmis.h.i.+ng took place: Quintanilla capitulated; and the territory of Chile was no longer sullied by the Spanish flag.

"Colonel Aldunate, Majors Maruri, Asagra, and Tupper (a native of Jersey); and Captain Bell, of the navy, greatly distinguished themselves.--Miller's Memoirs."

Colonel Aldunate was afterwards invested with the government of the island; but, owing to the disaffection of the troops, who were urged on by the King of Spain's agents, a revolution took place, Aldunate was imprisoned, and afterwards sent to Valparaiso, and the Spanish flag once more waved in Chiloe. It was, however, for a short time only; Aldunate was despatched once more, and with a small force of three hundred veteran troops, headed by Colonel Tupper, and accompanied by the Aquiles, brig of war, again obtained possession of the island, which he has since kept, though not quietly, for the Royalists were constantly on the alert, and made several futile attempts to recover the place for their king. Time has now reconciled the greater number to the change; and, I believe, Chiloe may be considered a contented dependency of the republic of Chile.

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The Beagle being ready to resume her voyage, sailed on the 19th of November to survey the southern coasts of Tierra del Fuego; after which, she was to rejoin the Adventure at Rio de Janeiro.[161]

As the Adelaide had received some damage in getting aground, it was requisite to lay her on the beach for examination and repair. Her mainmast, also, was found to be sprung so badly, as to render a new one necessary; which we should have found much difficulty in obtaining, but for the kindness of General Aldunate, who, finding that we were at a loss, proposed to give us the flag-staff of the town, a beautiful spar of alerse, that was in every way suitable. Previously, however, to accepting his offer, being aware that such an act might expose him to much reproach from the people of the town, who were all very proud of it, I caused inquiry to be made whether a spar of the necessary dimensions could be brought from Calbuco; and in the meantime we proceeded with the repairs.

A creek behind Sandy Point offering every convenience for heaving her down, the Adelaide was moved into it, and laid on the beach. On stripping her copper off, the injury proved to be considerable; but not beyond our means to repair. Upon examination, the foremast was found to be in a bad state, but could be rendered effective by fis.h.i.+ng it with the sound portion of the other mast, therefore our only real difficulty was to get a mainmast. From the account I received from Calbuco, I found that, without a great delay, not less than two months, and sending a portion of our people with ropes and tackles, there was no chance of procuring a spar: it could only be obtained at a considerable distance from the sh.o.r.e, and when felled must be dragged over several high ranges of hills, which might be called mountains, before it could be got to the water-side. General Aldunate, through whom this inquiry was made, then renewed his offer of the flag-staff, which I accepted most thankfully; and by his order it was taken down, and conveyed to the s.h.i.+p, soon after which it was converted into an excellent mainmast for the schooner. Before it was moved, a new, but shorter staff, with a topmast, was fitted for the flag; notwithstanding which, many unpleasant observations were made, and absurd reports circulated, which spread to Chile, and even to Peru, that the English were about to take possession of Chiloe, and had already removed the flag-staff of San Carlos.

[Ill.u.s.tration: OLD CHURCH AT CASTRO.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: NEAR PT. ARENA.]

[Ill.u.s.tration:

PT. ARENA.--SAN CARLOS CHILOE.

Published by Henry Colburn, Great Marlborough Street, 1838]

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By Lieutenant Mitch.e.l.l's activity in superintending the Adelaide's repairs, she was got ready for sea at the beginning of December, and sailed on the 8th, under the command of Lieutenant Skyring, with orders[162] to survey those parts of the Gulf of Penas which had not been examined by the Beagle; particularly the River San Tadeo, in San Quintin's Sound; the openings behind Xavier Island; the Channel's Mouths; and the Guaianeco Islands, where the Wager was wrecked: and then to proceed down the Mesier Channel, behind the Island Campana, which was supposed to communicate with Concepcion Strait, by the Brazo Ancho (or Wide Channel) of Sarmiento. He was then to go to the Ancon sin Salida, examining all the openings into the main land, on his way, and search for a communication with the large waters, discovered by Captain Fitz Roy, through which he was to try to enter the Strait, and join the Adventure, at Port Famine, during the month of April.

Lieutenant Skyring again took with him, by Captain Fitz Roy's permission, Mr. Kirke and Mr. Bynoe, of the Beagle; Mr. Alexander Millar and Mr. Parke also accompanied them.

Having thus despatched our companions, we prepared, on board the Adventure, to return to Valparaiso; intending to proceed to Rio de Janeiro; by way of Concepcion, Port Famine, and Monte Video; for the sake of adding some links to our chronometric chain: with a view to which, I had taken the opportunity of having the chronometers cleaned at Valparaiso by Mr.

Roskell, agent for Messrs. Roskell chronometer-makers at Liverpool. General Aldunate being on the point of returning to Valparaiso, I had an opportunity of obliging him, and showing my sense of the a.s.sistance, and essential kindness we had {302} received, by offering him and all his family a pa.s.sage in the Adventure, which he accepted; and on the 17th we left Chiloe. In our way we touched at Concepcion, and anch.o.r.ed at Valparaiso on the 2d of January.

We remained there until the 11th of February, and then sailed on our return to Rio de Janeiro, with the intention of pa.s.sing though the Strait of Magalhaens, and taking that opportunity of completing some few parts, which our former surveys had left unfinished. As the breeze, which, on this coast, blows with the constancy of a trade wind, would carry us close to the island of Juan Fernandez, I determined upon visiting it, for a few days; and then proceeding again to Concepcion.

We reached c.u.mberland Bay, on the north side of Juan Fernandez, on the 16th, and anch.o.r.ed, within two cables lengths of the beach, in ten fathoms.

I have seldom seen a more remarkable and picturesque view, than is presented by the approach to Juan Fernandez. When seen from a distance, the mountain of the 'Yungue' (Anvil), so called from its resemblance to a blacksmith's anvil, appears conspicuously placed in the midst of a range of precipitous mountains, and is alone an object of interest. It rises three thousand feet above a sh.o.r.e, which is formed by an abrupt wall of dark-coloured bare rock, eight or nine hundred feet in height, through whose wild ravines, broken by the mountain torrents, views are caught of verdant glades, surrounded by luxuriant woodland.