Molto Gusto_ Easy Italian Cooking Part 14

Balsamic, Onion & Goat Cheese

Otto Funghi & Taleggio PHOTO PIZZA.

MUSHROOMS.

2 ounces s.h.i.+take mushroom caps, sliced inch thick (about 2 cups) 1 small shallot, sliced inch thick 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil Maldon or other flaky sea salt and coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar Scant 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary 1 ounce sliced canned truffles in oil or 1 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil 2 ounces cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced (generous cup) 2 to 3 ounces Taleggio 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 12 fresh Italian parsley leaves To prepare the mushrooms: Preheat the broiler. Combine the s.h.i.+takes and shallot in a small bowl, toss with the oil, and season well with salt and pepper. Spread out on a baking sheet and broil for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring several times, until the mushrooms are tender and slightly charred. Remove from the broiler. (Leave the broiler on.) Preheat the broiler. Combine the s.h.i.+takes and shallot in a small bowl, toss with the oil, and season well with salt and pepper. Spread out on a baking sheet and broil for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring several times, until the mushrooms are tender and slightly charred. Remove from the broiler. (Leave the broiler on.)

Meanwhile, whisk the balsamic vinegar, lemon juice, rosemary, and truffles, with their oil (or the 1 teaspoons olive oil), together in a small bowl; set aside.

Remove the rind from the Taleggio and cut the cheese into 8 slices.

Spoon the s.h.i.+take mushrooms evenly over the parbaked pizza crust, leaving a -inch border. Scatter the cremini mushrooms over them and drizzle with the truffle vinaigrette. Broil as directed, then arrange the slices of Taleggio on the pizza and drizzle with the olive oil. Scatter the parsley over the top, cut into 6 slices, and serve.

Bianca PHOTO PIZZA.

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon smoked coa.r.s.e sea salt Broil the parbaked pizza crust as directed, but for just 1 to 2 minutes, until it is fully set and lightly toasted. Drizzle the oil over the pizza crust and sprinkle with the salt. Cut into 6 slices and serve, on its own or as an accompaniment to salumi and cheeses.

Lardo PHOTO PIZZA.

1 ounce lardo (cured fatback), preferably from Salumi Artisan Cured Meats (see Sources), chilled and very thinly sliced 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary Maldon or other flaky sea salt and coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper Arrange the lardo evenly over the parbaked pizza crust, leaving a -inch border. Broil as directed, but for just 1 to 2 minutes, until the crust is fully set and lightly toasted. Sprinkle the rosemary and salt and pepper over the pizza, cut into 6 slices, and serve.

Fennel & Bottarga PHOTO PIZZA.

cup Pom strained tomatoes cup shredded fresh mozzarella cup shredded cacio di Roma Pinch of fennel seeds 12 paper-thin slices fennel (shaved with a Benriner or other vegetable slicer) 1 ounce bottarga di mugine (see Sources) 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil Spread the tomato sauce over the parbaked pizza crust, leaving a -inch border. Scatter the cheeses evenly over the sauce, and sprinkle with the fennel seeds. Broil as directed, then scatter the slices of fennel over the pizza. Shave or grate the bottarga over the top, and drizzle with the olive oil. Cut into 6 slices and serve.

Aglio, Olio & Peperoncino PHOTO PIZZA.

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 garlic clove, very thinly sliced 1 red finger chile or serrano chile, thinly sliced 12 fresh Italian parsley leaves Broil the parbaked pizza crust as directed, but for just 1 to 2 minutes, until fully set and lightly toasted. Drizzle the olive oil over the crust, scatter the garlic over it, and sprinkle with the chile and parsley. Cut into 6 slices and serve.

Potato, Anchovy & Ricotta PHOTO PIZZA.

2 to 3 ounces fresh ricotta 12 paper-thin slices peeled raw Idaho potato 2 marinated white anchovies (boquerones), cut into 3 pieces each 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil Fried sage leaves for garnish (optional) Spread the ricotta on the parbaked pizza crust, leaving a -inch border. Arrange the potatoes and anchovies evenly on top. Drizzle with the olive oil. Broil the pizza as directed, then sprinkle with the sage, if using, cut into 6 slices, and serve.

Vongole PHOTO PIZZA.

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced cup dry white wine Pinch of hot red pepper flakes 12 to 18 very small clams, such as Manila, or c.o.c.kles, scrubbed cup shredded fresh mozzarella Fresh Italian parsley leaves for garnish Combine the oil and garlic in a small pot and cook, stirring, over medium-high heat untl the garlic is softened, about 1 minute. Add the wine, red pepper flakes, and clams, cover, and cook until the clams open, 3 to 5 minutes; transfer the clams to a bowl as they open. Remove the pot from the heat.

Scatter the cheese evenly over the pizza crust, leaving a -inch border. Broil as directed, then arrange the clams on top and sprinkle with the parsley. Cut into 6 slices and serve.

Pane Frattau PHOTO PIZZA.

cup Pom strained tomatoes cup grated pecorino romano 1 large fried egg (see Note) 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil Spread the tomato sauce evenly over the parbaked pizza crust, leaving a -inch border. Sprinkle the pecorino over the sauce. Broil as directed, then cut the pizza into 6 slices and transfer to a plate. Slide the fried egg on top, drizzle with the olive oil, and serve.

Note: Fry the egg sunny-side up, or cooked to your preference, in a little olive oil while the pizza cooks.

Balsamic, Onion & Goat Cheese PHOTO PIZZA.

2 ounces creamy young goat cheese, such as Coach Farm, at room temperature 8 Balsamic-Glazed Cipolline (recipe follows) Fresh Italian parsley leaves for garnish 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil Spread the goat cheese evenly on the pizza crust, leaving a -inch border. Halve the onions horizontally and arrange on the goat cheese. Broil as directed, then sprinkle the parsley over the pizza and drizzle with the olive oil. Cut into 6 slices and serve.

BALSAMIC-GLAZED CIPOLLINE.

MAKES A GENEROUS 1 CUP.

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter 8 ounces small cipollini, peeled cup balsamic vinegar cup water 1 teaspoons sugar Combine the oil and b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan and heat over medium-high heat until the foam subsides. Add the onions and cook, turning once or twice, until well browned on both sides, 7 to 9 minutes. Add the vinegar, water, and sugar, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then reduce the heat and boil gently, turning the onions occasionally, until they are tender and the liquid has reduced to a syrupy glaze, about 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. (The onions can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before using.) (The onions can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before using.)

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Kids' Pizza Ethan (Meatb.a.l.l.s) 8 ounces ground brisket or lean ground beef (75/25) 2 small garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh Italian parsley teaspoon cayenne Maldon or other flaky sea salt 2 tablespoons milk cup fresh bread crumbs cup extra virgin olive oil cup Pom strained tomatoes cup grated fresh mozzarella To make the meatb.a.l.l.s: Combine the beef, garlic, parsley, cayenne, and a generous pinch of salt in a medium bowl, mixing gently with your hands. Add the milk and bread crumbs and mix gently but thoroughly. Shape into -inch meatb.a.l.l.s Combine the beef, garlic, parsley, cayenne, and a generous pinch of salt in a medium bowl, mixing gently with your hands. Add the milk and bread crumbs and mix gently but thoroughly. Shape into -inch meatb.a.l.l.s (you'll have about 25 meatb.a.l.l.s; you only need 12 meatb.a.l.l.s for 1 pizza, but leftovers are great for an impromptu midnight spaghetti) (you'll have about 25 meatb.a.l.l.s; you only need 12 meatb.a.l.l.s for 1 pizza, but leftovers are great for an impromptu midnight spaghetti).

Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan, preferably nonstick, over medium heat. Add the meatb.a.l.l.s and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides and cooked through, about 12 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. (The meatb.a.l.l.s can be kept at room temperature for up to 30 minutes.) (The meatb.a.l.l.s can be kept at room temperature for up to 30 minutes.)

Cut 12 meatb.a.l.l.s in half for each pizza you will be making. Spread the tomato sauce evenly over the parbaked pizza crust, leaving a -inch border. Scatter the mozzarella over the sauce, and arrange the meatb.a.l.l.s on top. Broil as directed, then cut into 4 slices and serve.

Jasper (Salami) cup Pom strained tomatoes cup grated fresh mozzarella 2 ounces salami, preferably Tuscan, cut into matchsticks, thinly sliced, or chopped Spread the tomato sauce evenly over the parbaked pizza crust, leaving a -inch border. Scatter the mozzarella over the sauce, and arrange the salami evenly on the pizza. Broil as directed, then cut into 4 slices and serve.

Olivia (Prosciutto) cup Pom strained tomatoes cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus a few shavings for garnish 1 ounce prosciutto, sliced or chopped A drizzle of balsamic vinegar Spread the tomato sauce evenly over the parbaked pizza crust, leaving a -inch border. Scatter the grated Parmigiano over the sauce. Broil as directed, then scatter the prosciutto over the pizza, drizzle with balsamic vinegar, and scatter the shaved cheese over the top. Cut into 4 slices and serve.

Leo (Guanciale) 1 ounce guanciale or pancetta (have the meat sliced inch thick when you buy it), cut into matchsticks, or 1 slices good American bacon, cut crosswise into -inch-wide strips Scant cup rinsed canned chickpeas cup Pom strained tomatoes cup grated fresh mozzarella 1 tablespoon coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh Italian parsley Cook the guanciale in a small saute pan over medium heat until it has rendered its fat and is golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain.

Combine the guanciale and chickpeas in a small bowl, mixing well. Spread the tomato sauce evenly over the parbaked pizza crust, leaving a -inch border. Scatter the mozzarella over the sauce, then scatter the chickpeas and guanciale over the top. Broil as directed, then scatter the parsley over the pizza, cut into 4 slices, and serve.

Benno (Pesto) 6 tablespoons Basil Pesto (Pasta) cup grated fresh mozzarella Spread the pesto evenly over the parbaked pizza crust, leaving a -inch border. Scatter the mozzarella over the pesto. Broil as directed, then cut into 4 slices and serve.

Riley (Cauliflower) 1 cup small cauliflower florets (about inch across) 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil Maldon or other flaky sea salt and coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper cup Pom strained tomatoes cup grated fresh mozzarella Preheat the broiler. Toss the cauliflower with the olive oil on a small baking sheet and season generously with salt and pepper. Spread out in a single layer on the baking sheet and broil, stirring occasionally, just until lightly browned in spots, about 5 minutes. Remove from the broiler. (Leave the broiler on.)

Spread the tomato sauce evenly over the parbaked pizza crust, leaving a -inch border. Scatter the mozzarella over the sauce, and scatter the cauliflower over the top. Broil as directed, then cut into 4 slices and serve.

Miles (Broccoli) 1 cup small broccoli florets (about inch across) 1 tablespoon olive oil Maldon or other flaky sea salt and coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper cup Pom strained tomatoes cup grated fresh mozzarella Preheat the broiler. Toss the broccoli with the olive oil on a small baking sheet and season generously with salt and pepper. Spread out in a single layer on the baking sheet and broil, stirring occasionally, just until lightly browned in spots, about 5 minutes. Remove from the broiler. (Leave the broiler on.)

Spread the tomato sauce evenly over the parbaked pizza crust, leaving a -inch border. Scatter the mozzarella over the sauce, and scatter the broccoli over the top. Broil as directed, then cut into 4 slices and serve.

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7.

GELATO & SORBETTO.

Man or woman cannot live on antipasti, salads, bruschetta, pasta, and pizza alone...you also need gelato! Dessert in Italian culture is as often eaten during the afternoon, or even as a midmorning snack, as it is after a meal. But if there is one single contribution that Italian culture has made to the international world that is really, truly "made in Italy," it is gelato. There are thousands of places across America with excellent shakes and sundaes and soft-serve and the myriad other frozen dairy variations that we categorize under ice cream, and they are justly renowned for their deliciousness, but there is something about the pure extracted flavor and the delightful taffy-like mouthfeel and pull that makes Italian gelato something very special-and that is what we serve at Otto. It is through the genius of our live on antipasti, salads, bruschetta, pasta, and pizza alone...you also need gelato! Dessert in Italian culture is as often eaten during the afternoon, or even as a midmorning snack, as it is after a meal. But if there is one single contribution that Italian culture has made to the international world that is really, truly "made in Italy," it is gelato. There are thousands of places across America with excellent shakes and sundaes and soft-serve and the myriad other frozen dairy variations that we categorize under ice cream, and they are justly renowned for their deliciousness, but there is something about the pure extracted flavor and the delightful taffy-like mouthfeel and pull that makes Italian gelato something very special-and that is what we serve at Otto. It is through the genius of our "gelataia" "gelataia" Meredith Kurtzman that we offer here recipes she has painstakingly developed and perfected both in simple form as pure flavors and in the more composed desserts called Meredith Kurtzman that we offer here recipes she has painstakingly developed and perfected both in simple form as pure flavors and in the more composed desserts called coppette. coppette.

You do not need to buy an expensive Italian gelato maker for these recipes-you can use an inexpensive cylinder-batch ice cream freezer. You can buy an expensive table-top model if you want, but the machine is not nearly as important as the components of these recipes, the first of which are magnificent raw products and the second of which are the formulas that Meredith agreed to share in the following pages.

It is always best to make gelato the morning of the day you want to serve it and harden it in the coldest part of your freezer, but all of these gelati will stay in excellent condition for at least a week if they are properly stored. We emphasize that you should use local produce at its peak of ripeness, or perhaps even one day over-ripe, to create the intense flavors that are famous in every city in the "boot" as well as in NYC. And invest in some plastic freezer containers with tight-fitting lids to use exclusively for your gelati, as savory flavors will linger in even well-cleaned containers, and the flavors of garlic or last night's take-out Indian will mar your best work while the gelato sets up in your freezer.

The word gelato gelato is derived from the verb is derived from the verb gelare, gelare, which means to freeze, and basically, it is Italian ice cream. But gelato is often way lower in fat content than American ice cream, and it is usually served at a warmer temperature, resulting in a softer, more intensely flavorful product. which means to freeze, and basically, it is Italian ice cream. But gelato is often way lower in fat content than American ice cream, and it is usually served at a warmer temperature, resulting in a softer, more intensely flavorful product.

Styles of gelato vary throughout Italy, and elsewhere. There are industrial products made with water and flavored powders. You will see these piled high in the display case, wildly colored and full of baubles. Then there are the more artisa.n.a.l styles of gelato, made with whole milk, real ingredients as flavoring, and egg yolks or cornstarch as thickeners.

At Otto, we infuse, or flavor, whole milk with ingredients such as vanilla beans, fresh mint, and high-quality chocolate. For most of our gelati, the milk is then combined with egg yolks, some heavy cream, and flavoring ingredients to make a cooked custard base, and we let the base mature overnight in the refrigerator to develop the flavors. We have a high-speed batch freezer that chills and churns the custard base very quickly. The gelato is extracted into metal containers and chilled for a few more hours in our blast freezer. Then we put the containers into a display case a few hours before service to temper them; the case is kept at 10 to 12F.

We also serve a variety of bright, flavorful sorbetti. Fruit-based sorbets will be only as good as the fruit you make them with, so choose the most dead-ripe seasonal fruit you can find. If you will be using the fruit with its skin left on or grating the zest of citrus fruits, buy unsprayed organic fruit. Wash all fruit thoroughly. And churn the sorbet base as soon as it is thoroughly chilled, to maintain the fresh fruit flavor.

All fruits contain varying amounts of water and sugar, two of the basic elements of any sorbet. Some sorbets are sweetened with simple syrup and some with sugar, depending on the water content of the fruit. Too much water in a sorbet will yield an icy, weakly flavored product. Too much sugar will make it impossible to freeze the sorbet. Small amounts of lemon juice and salt will brighten and sharpen up the flavors. Alcohol can be added to sorbet as a flavor enhancer, but it also works as an "antifreeze," so must be used with a light hand.

Coppette, essentially Italian sundaes, are the natural extension of pure gelato scoops and cups and a more evolved and thoughtful way of using the delicious building blocks different gelatos are for the pastry chef. In this chapter, we include some of our faves, which are truly Otto originals, all from the fertile, restless, and creative mind of gelataia gelataia Meredith Kurtzman. They will knock the socks off anyone you feed them to. Meredith Kurtzman. They will knock the socks off anyone you feed them to.

GELATO-MAKING TIPS.

* It is best to chill a cooked gelato base quickly in an ice bath, and then to refrigerate it for at least 6 hours before churning it. Even better, let it chill and mature overnight.

* The gelato base should be very cold when you pour it into the ice cream maker. If it is warm, not only will it take longer to freeze it, but too much air will be incorporated in the process, resulting in an unpleasantly fluffy product.

* The gelato should be very thick, with an almost matte finish, when you stop churning it. Then let the gelato firm up in the freezer for at least an hour or two before serving.

* Homemade gelato is best served the day it is churned, but it will be good for up to a week if kept properly frozen.

EQUIPMENT.

Here is a list of equipment we recommend for any pastry kitchen: