Molto Gusto_ Easy Italian Cooking Part 4

Just before serving, scatter the pine nuts and reserved fennel fronds over the sardines.

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Meat Antipasti These are the delectable salumi we serve as antipasti. It's best to choose several different types to create a varied platter. I like a spiced salami as the core of the plate, along with a whole muscle like coppa or prosciutto and a fatter one like lardo or pancetta.

PROSCIUTTO CRUDO DOLCE is the general term for an air-dried salt-cured ham made from pigs that weigh in at around 350 pounds. The hams are generally hung, after a traditional salting process, for at least 300 days, often for up to 24 or 36 months. The apparent appreciation for jamon Jabugo de Bellota, also called jamon iberico, in Spain and now in the world "luxury goods market" has Italian prosciutto makers rethinking the potential for flavor development, and older and older hams will be on the market from each of the following as this new style develops. The best way to understand the differences is to go to a place that allows and promotes sampling and taste your options. Then go with what you love-simple and easy. is the general term for an air-dried salt-cured ham made from pigs that weigh in at around 350 pounds. The hams are generally hung, after a traditional salting process, for at least 300 days, often for up to 24 or 36 months. The apparent appreciation for jamon Jabugo de Bellota, also called jamon iberico, in Spain and now in the world "luxury goods market" has Italian prosciutto makers rethinking the potential for flavor development, and older and older hams will be on the market from each of the following as this new style develops. The best way to understand the differences is to go to a place that allows and promotes sampling and taste your options. Then go with what you love-simple and easy.

These three varieties are our favorites: PROSCIUTTO DI PARMA PROSCIUTTO DI PARMA is from Emilia-Romagna's Langhirano, between the Taro and the Baganza Rivers, near Parma. This ham is the king. The pigs are often fed the whey left from Parmigiano-Reggiano production, and we love the 18-month versions made by Galoni and Greci e Folzani. is from Emilia-Romagna's Langhirano, between the Taro and the Baganza Rivers, near Parma. This ham is the king. The pigs are often fed the whey left from Parmigiano-Reggiano production, and we love the 18-month versions made by Galoni and Greci e Folzani. PROSCIUTTO DI SAN DANIELE PROSCIUTTO DI SAN DANIELE is slightly sweeter than the Parma hams, in our opinion-because of the cooler ambient temperatures, a little less salt is used. These come from the San Daniele and Sauris regions of Friuli, and we love Fratelli Beretta and Principe. is slightly sweeter than the Parma hams, in our opinion-because of the cooler ambient temperatures, a little less salt is used. These come from the San Daniele and Sauris regions of Friuli, and we love Fratelli Beretta and Principe. PROSCIUTTO LA QUERCIA PROSCIUTTO LA QUERCIA, made by our friends Herb and Kathy Eckhouse in Iowa, is the best American prosciutto on the market. It is fragrant and more pork roasty than either of the Italian versions above. We love both their Green Label and their Rossa; their website is www.laquercia.us. made by our friends Herb and Kathy Eckhouse in Iowa, is the best American prosciutto on the market. It is fragrant and more pork roasty than either of the Italian versions above. We love both their Green Label and their Rossa; their website is www.laquercia.us.

There are also hams called PROSCIUTTI CRUDI SALATI PROSCIUTTI CRUDI SALATI produced throughout regions farther south in Italy, including Toscana, Umbria, and Le Marche. These are more heavily salted and often have pepper and herbs such as rosemary or bay leaves and garlic. produced throughout regions farther south in Italy, including Toscana, Umbria, and Le Marche. These are more heavily salted and often have pepper and herbs such as rosemary or bay leaves and garlic.

Perhaps the most royal of all ham products is CULATELLO CULATELLO, made in the Ba.s.sa Parmense and Ba.s.sa Verdiana regions near Zibello in northern Emilia-Romagna. It was developed in these higher-humidity, lower-alt.i.tude regions as an alternative to prosciutto, and it comes from the largest muscle area at the top of the same rear thighs used to make prosciutto. Culatello is salted and often marinated in wine, then stuffed into a pig's bladder and tied before being hung in these humid conditions. It is not legal for import into the U.S., but Salumi in Seattle makes the best one in the States, and we make a pretty mean one at Babbo as well. Otherwise, your best bet is to eat lots of culatello when you visit Italy, where slices are often served with the odd pat of b.u.t.ter and the strange cracker-like bread of northern Emilia. made in the Ba.s.sa Parmense and Ba.s.sa Verdiana regions near Zibello in northern Emilia-Romagna. It was developed in these higher-humidity, lower-alt.i.tude regions as an alternative to prosciutto, and it comes from the largest muscle area at the top of the same rear thighs used to make prosciutto. Culatello is salted and often marinated in wine, then stuffed into a pig's bladder and tied before being hung in these humid conditions. It is not legal for import into the U.S., but Salumi in Seattle makes the best one in the States, and we make a pretty mean one at Babbo as well. Otherwise, your best bet is to eat lots of culatello when you visit Italy, where slices are often served with the odd pat of b.u.t.ter and the strange cracker-like bread of northern Emilia.

We make all of the products below under the careful and fully HAACP-certified program developed by chef Dan Drohan at Otto and in part by chef Zach Allen, now at Carnevino in Las Vegas.

COPPA, often called "the poor man's prosciutto," is made from the muscles at the top of the shoulder near the base of the neck. The D.O.C. product from Italy is from Piacenza; it is traditionally cured with cookie spices such as cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, along with salt and pepper, that are all ma.s.saged in, and then the whole fandango is packed into a beef bung and hung for 120 days. The one we make at Otto has cayenne and fennel seeds too. often called "the poor man's prosciutto," is made from the muscles at the top of the shoulder near the base of the neck. The D.O.C. product from Italy is from Piacenza; it is traditionally cured with cookie spices such as cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, along with salt and pepper, that are all ma.s.saged in, and then the whole fandango is packed into a beef bung and hung for 120 days. The one we make at Otto has cayenne and fennel seeds too.

BRESAOLA is air-dried beef eye of round, traditionally from the Valtellina in Lombardia. We rub ours with salt and pepper and a little sugar, bag it in beef bungs like the coppa, and hang it for 70 days. In Italy, bresaola is often served with sliced raw artichokes as an antipasto, or with robiola cheese. is air-dried beef eye of round, traditionally from the Valtellina in Lombardia. We rub ours with salt and pepper and a little sugar, bag it in beef bungs like the coppa, and hang it for 70 days. In Italy, bresaola is often served with sliced raw artichokes as an antipasto, or with robiola cheese.

LONZA is made from boneless pork loin, where pork chops come from. We cure ours with salt and fennel and hang it, unsheathed but tied like a roast, for 90 days. is made from boneless pork loin, where pork chops come from. We cure ours with salt and fennel and hang it, unsheathed but tied like a roast, for 90 days.

PANCETTA is pork belly cured whole, like slab bacon, with sugar, bay, cinnamon, black pepper, and allspice. It is hung for 70 days, then either rolled ( is pork belly cured whole, like slab bacon, with sugar, bay, cinnamon, black pepper, and allspice. It is hung for 70 days, then either rolled (rotolata) or left flat (stesa). It is eaten raw, sliced thinly like prosciutto, or cooked like bacon.

LARDO is made from the fatback of pigs that weigh in at up to 500 pounds, to produce very thick and succulent, very fragrant and creamy lard. The D.O.P. version comes from Colonnata in the Apuan Alps of northern Toscana, where it is aged in marble-veined caves originally excavated for use in sculptures. We pack ours tightly in a wet "sand" of salt, pepper, ginger, rosemary, and allspice and let it rest, unexposed to light, for 6 to 8 months, then hang it for 60 to 120 days more before slicing it and serving it on hot bruschetta or pizza bianca. is made from the fatback of pigs that weigh in at up to 500 pounds, to produce very thick and succulent, very fragrant and creamy lard. The D.O.P. version comes from Colonnata in the Apuan Alps of northern Toscana, where it is aged in marble-veined caves originally excavated for use in sculptures. We pack ours tightly in a wet "sand" of salt, pepper, ginger, rosemary, and allspice and let it rest, unexposed to light, for 6 to 8 months, then hang it for 60 to 120 days more before slicing it and serving it on hot bruschetta or pizza bianca.

GUANCIALE is made from the entire jowl and cheek of a large pig. We rub ours with marjoram, black and red pepper, and brown sugar and let it rest, away from light, for 42 days, then hang it for 30 days. We cook it or slice it and serve it raw. Guanciale is the base fat for much of Roman and Abruzzese cooking, especially pastas and many vegetable dishes. is made from the entire jowl and cheek of a large pig. We rub ours with marjoram, black and red pepper, and brown sugar and let it rest, away from light, for 42 days, then hang it for 30 days. We cook it or slice it and serve it raw. Guanciale is the base fat for much of Roman and Abruzzese cooking, especially pastas and many vegetable dishes.

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FINOCCHIONA, originally from Toscana, is flavored with fennel seeds and an aggressive amount of salt and black pepper. At Otto, we add ground coriander and cayenne, stuff it into hog middles, and hang it for 45 days before slicing and serving it while it is still relatively soft. originally from Toscana, is flavored with fennel seeds and an aggressive amount of salt and black pepper. At Otto, we add ground coriander and cayenne, stuff it into hog middles, and hang it for 45 days before slicing and serving it while it is still relatively soft.

PEPPERONI is the cla.s.sic spicy salami known and appreciated by pizza lovers all over the world. We make ours with cayenne, red pepper flakes, a touch of vinegar, and fennel pollen and dry it for 60 days to achieve the customary firm texture that cooks up perfectly on a tomato and mozzarella pie. is the cla.s.sic spicy salami known and appreciated by pizza lovers all over the world. We make ours with cayenne, red pepper flakes, a touch of vinegar, and fennel pollen and dry it for 60 days to achieve the customary firm texture that cooks up perfectly on a tomato and mozzarella pie.

SALAMI TOSCANO could actually be anything made by a butcher in Toscana, but it usually has whole black peppercorns, wine, and some form of fennel in a base of quite coa.r.s.ely ground pork and fat. We hang ours for 90 days for a firm texture; a lot of butchers in Toscana hang it for much less, depending on local custom. We use a lactic starter to achieve the traditional flavor in this and the salami lardetto. could actually be anything made by a butcher in Toscana, but it usually has whole black peppercorns, wine, and some form of fennel in a base of quite coa.r.s.ely ground pork and fat. We hang ours for 90 days for a firm texture; a lot of butchers in Toscana hang it for much less, depending on local custom. We use a lactic starter to achieve the traditional flavor in this and the salami lardetto. SALAMI LARDETTO SALAMI LARDETTO, which has much larger pieces of hand-cut cubed fat, not ground, is what many Italians consider salami toscana. We use pieces of cured lardo as well to tune up the intensity. which has much larger pieces of hand-cut cubed fat, not ground, is what many Italians consider salami toscana. We use pieces of cured lardo as well to tune up the intensity. SALAMI WITH CELERY SALAMI WITH CELERY is a variation on the toscano, with the addition of celery seeds and a touch of corn syrup solids for a pungent celery punch and a slightly sweeter mouthfeel. It is one of my all-time faves. is a variation on the toscano, with the addition of celery seeds and a touch of corn syrup solids for a pungent celery punch and a slightly sweeter mouthfeel. It is one of my all-time faves.

TESTA is an Italian head cheese. We brine a whole hog's head with brown sugar, salt, bay leaf, and garlic for 3 days and then poach it with oranges and peppercorns. We remove all of the meat from the bones, add a little natural gelatin to some of the poaching liquid, and set the entire beautiful mess in cylindrical bain-maries to achieve the cla.s.sic shape. We serve it sliced a bit thicker than traditional salami. In Panzano, in Toscana, our favorite Italian butcher in the world and pal Dario Cecchini makes something like this as big as a torpedo and calls it soppressata. To eat it served from his hands is one of the seven gastronomic wonders of the world and well worth a trip to Italy by itself. is an Italian head cheese. We brine a whole hog's head with brown sugar, salt, bay leaf, and garlic for 3 days and then poach it with oranges and peppercorns. We remove all of the meat from the bones, add a little natural gelatin to some of the poaching liquid, and set the entire beautiful mess in cylindrical bain-maries to achieve the cla.s.sic shape. We serve it sliced a bit thicker than traditional salami. In Panzano, in Toscana, our favorite Italian butcher in the world and pal Dario Cecchini makes something like this as big as a torpedo and calls it soppressata. To eat it served from his hands is one of the seven gastronomic wonders of the world and well worth a trip to Italy by itself.

MORTADELLA was born in Bologna, Emilia-Romagna, and that is where our word for bologna the lunch meat got its name. In Italy, mortadella is considered one of the pinnacles of Emilian gastronomy, and it can be the defining point of a good party when served with proper abandon, sometimes with freshly grated horseradish and mustard. I am a big fan of a dry mortadella panino served with a tiny cold beer around 10 a.m. for a little breaky break when I am in Bologna-or Venezia, for that matter. It is essentially a smooth paste of finely ground and highly seasoned pork, often studded with cubes of fat and pistachios. It is always cooked, either in large steam ovens or poached slowly in giant vessels; it does not need aging. was born in Bologna, Emilia-Romagna, and that is where our word for bologna the lunch meat got its name. In Italy, mortadella is considered one of the pinnacles of Emilian gastronomy, and it can be the defining point of a good party when served with proper abandon, sometimes with freshly grated horseradish and mustard. I am a big fan of a dry mortadella panino served with a tiny cold beer around 10 a.m. for a little breaky break when I am in Bologna-or Venezia, for that matter. It is essentially a smooth paste of finely ground and highly seasoned pork, often studded with cubes of fat and pistachios. It is always cooked, either in large steam ovens or poached slowly in giant vessels; it does not need aging.

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3.

BRUSCHETTA & CHEESE.

For many Italian kids at university these days, bruschetta is the new pizza and it can be thought of in the same way in terms of toppings, from simple to complex. Although the word at university these days, bruschetta is the new pizza and it can be thought of in the same way in terms of toppings, from simple to complex. Although the word bruschetta bruschetta comes from the Roman dialectical verb root comes from the Roman dialectical verb root bruscare bruscare (which means "to cook or roast over hot coals"), we use an industrial toaster at Otto, and you can use a simple toaster oven, a panino press, or a regular oven broiler for equally delicious results. One tip is to cook the bread a little bit longer than you think-a deep dark golden brown crust yields a much more complex flavor, and the crunch is indispensable for a great bruschetta experience. (which means "to cook or roast over hot coals"), we use an industrial toaster at Otto, and you can use a simple toaster oven, a panino press, or a regular oven broiler for equally delicious results. One tip is to cook the bread a little bit longer than you think-a deep dark golden brown crust yields a much more complex flavor, and the crunch is indispensable for a great bruschetta experience.

As a simple and delicious way to turn a couple of bruschette into a nice light meal, serving a few well-chosen cheeses can also be a fun way to explore regional variations in the key of milk. Often served at the end of the meal, cheese has really become its own category at both simple and fancy enotecas in all of my favorite towns throughout Italy.

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Artichokes [image]

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Cabbage

Bruschetta MAKES 6 TOASTS.

Six -inch-thick slices filone or other country bread 2 garlic cloves, peeled Grill or toast the bread, turning once, until marked with grill marks or deep golden brown but still soft in the center. Rub a garlic clove just around the circ.u.mference of each toast, along the jagged outer crust. Divide the topping of your choice among the bruschetta, and serve.

Each of the following topping recipes makes enough for 6 bruschetta, to serve 6.

WHITE BEANS.

SERVES 6 6.

Use recipe (a generous 2 cups) White Beans (VEGETABLE ANTIPASTI).

CABBAGE.

MAKES A GENEROUS 2 CUPS PHOTO OPPOSITE.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 2 ounces smoked bacon, cut into -inch dice medium white onion, thinly sliced 1 pound red or white cabbage (about medium cabbage), halved, cored, and cut crosswise into -inch-wide ribbons 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar Maldon or other flaky sea salt and coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper Combine the oil, b.u.t.ter, bacon, onion, and cabbage in a large pot and cook over medium-high heat, stirring, until the cabbage is well coated and beginning to wilt, about 5 minutes. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the cabbage is very tender, 20 to 25 minutes.

Add the vinegar, increase the heat to high, and cook, stirring, until most of the cooking liquid has evaporated. Season with salt if necessary and with pepper and remove from the heat.

Serve the cabbage warm or at room temperature. (The cabbage can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.) (The cabbage can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.)

ARTICHOKES.

MAKES A GENEROUS 2 CUPS PHOTO BRUSCHETTA & CHEESE.

3 cups water 1 cup dry white wine Juice of 2 lemons 1 pound baby artichokes (10 to 12) cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh basil, stems reserved large white onion, cut into -inch dice 5 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled 1 bay leaf, preferably fresh cup extra virgin olive oil Maldon or other flaky sea salt Combine the water, wine, and lemon juice in a medium bowl. Pull off the tough outer leaves from each artichoke, then cut off the top inch of the remaining leaves. Trim the bottom of the artichoke stem, then cut off the top outer layer of the stem with a paring knife. Transfer the artichokes to the lemon juice mixture as you work, to prevent oxidation.

Transfer the artichokes and their liquid to a medium pot. Add the basil stems, onion, garlic, and bay leaf, put a pan lid on top of the artichokes to keep them submerged, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the artichokes are tender (test the centers with the tip of a sharp knife), 10 to 15 minutes. Drain, reserving the onion and garlic, and let cool slightly; discard the basil stems and bay leaf.

Quarter each artichoke with a sharp knife (remove and discard any remaining tough leaves if necessary). Chop or mash the garlic.

Transfer the artichokes, onion, and garlic to a saute pan, add the oil, and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until all the artichoke leaves are tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Season with salt, stir in the chopped basil, and remove from the heat.