Winter Gatherings Part 2

- 1. Whisk the lime zest, lime juice, and garlic together in a large bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil. Whisk the lime zest, lime juice, and garlic together in a large bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil.

- 2. Add the cabbage, scallions, and cilantro, and mix. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours. (The slaw can be made up to 2 days ahead.) Serve chilled. Add the cabbage, scallions, and cilantro, and mix. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours. (The slaw can be made up to 2 days ahead.) Serve chilled.

Roasted Beet and Orange Salad Makes 6 servings With its Day-Glo colors, this salad has lots of visual appeal that is more than matched by its mouth-filling flavors. There is no better way to prepare beets than roasting, and I wish I had a nickel for all of the times I've served this to a guest who's said, "I don't even like beets, but I love this salad."

6 medium beets, scrubbed but unpeeled2 large navel oranges1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oilSalt and freshly ground black pepper small red onion, cut into thin half-moons

- 1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400F. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400F.

- 2. To roast the beets, wrap each beet in aluminum foil. Place on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until tender, about 1 hour. Cool completely. Slip the skins off the beets. Slice the beets into thick rounds. To roast the beets, wrap each beet in aluminum foil. Place on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until tender, about 1 hour. Cool completely. Slip the skins off the beets. Slice the beets into thick rounds.

- 3. To prepare the oranges, grate the zest from half an orange into a medium bowl and set aside. Cut about inch from the top and bottom of each orange and stand them on the work surface. Using a serrated knife, cut off the peel where it meets the flesh. Working over a small bowl, cut between the membranes to release the orange segments into the bowl. Squeeze the membranes over the bowl to extract any remaining juice. Measure 2 tablespoons of the orange juice into the bowl with the zest. To prepare the oranges, grate the zest from half an orange into a medium bowl and set aside. Cut about inch from the top and bottom of each orange and stand them on the work surface. Using a serrated knife, cut off the peel where it meets the flesh. Working over a small bowl, cut between the membranes to release the orange segments into the bowl. Squeeze the membranes over the bowl to extract any remaining juice. Measure 2 tablespoons of the orange juice into the bowl with the zest.

- 4. Whisk together the orange zest, juice, and the balsamic vinegar. Gradually whisk in the oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and whisk again to dissolve the salt. Add the beets, orange segments, and red onion, and toss gently. Serve at room temperature. Whisk together the orange zest, juice, and the balsamic vinegar. Gradually whisk in the oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and whisk again to dissolve the salt. Add the beets, orange segments, and red onion, and toss gently. Serve at room temperature.

BeetsAccording to a very unscientific study, performed when creating menus and asking prospective dinner guests if they have any aversions, I have found the most unpopular vegetable: beets. Were the opinions formed during childhood, when forced to eat boring canned beets? Or was it a child's basic mistrust of all vegetables-especially ones that have an unfamiliar hue?Beets deserve to be loved for their very uniqueness. Most beets are magenta (but there are striped and yellow ones, too, although I mainly see those in the summer), and they can really brighten up a winter table. Roast them (boiling and steaming drains them of flavor and color) and you'll be treated to a combination of earthy and sweet flavors. Their juices, made deep red by the pigment betalain, stain like crazy. You'll release fewer juices if you cut them after cooking. Beet skin is thicker and composed differently than the flesh, so it will slip off easily. There really isn't a good way to remove beet stains, so if it is a concern, wear latex gloves when handling.If you can, buy beets with the greens still attached, as the perkiness of the leaves indicates freshness. When tr.i.m.m.i.n.g off the leaves, or any remaining roots at the tip of the beets, don't trim them flush, and leave an inch or two attached, as this will help staunch the flow of the juices.

Poached Leeks with Creamy Vinaigrette Makes 4 to 6 servings One January, I found myself in Paris. One of the many pleasures of that trip (and I can a.s.sure you that Paris is just as magical when you are sniffling from the cold as when it is warm) was enjoying leeks vinaigrette at a bistro. Simmer the leeks and they'll hold their slender shape beautifully. The vinaigrette, with a soupcon of creme fraiche, is the perfect counterpoint to the silky leeks.

12 medium leeks3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice2 tablespoons creme fraiche or sour cream2/3 cup pure olive oilSalt and freshly ground black pepper2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives

- 1. Working with one leek at a time, cut off the dark green top, leaving the white and pale green part intact. Starting about inch from the root end, slice the leek lengthwise. Rinse well under cold running water, letting the water run between the layers to remove any grit. Transfer to a large bowl of cold water and soak for 10 minutes. Lift the leeks from the water and shake off the excess water. Working with one leek at a time, cut off the dark green top, leaving the white and pale green part intact. Starting about inch from the root end, slice the leek lengthwise. Rinse well under cold running water, letting the water run between the layers to remove any grit. Transfer to a large bowl of cold water and soak for 10 minutes. Lift the leeks from the water and shake off the excess water.

- 2. Arrange the leeks, overlapping if necessary, in a large skillet. Add enough lightly salted water to cover. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer gently until the leeks are tender, about 20 minutes. They should hold their shape; do not overcook. Arrange the leeks, overlapping if necessary, in a large skillet. Add enough lightly salted water to cover. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer gently until the leeks are tender, about 20 minutes. They should hold their shape; do not overcook.

- 3. Using a slotted spoon, carefully transfer the leeks to a platter and let cool. One at a time, gently squeeze the excess water from the leeks and give them a uniform shape. Return the leeks to the platter. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, for at least 1 and up to 12 hours. Using a slotted spoon, carefully transfer the leeks to a platter and let cool. One at a time, gently squeeze the excess water from the leeks and give them a uniform shape. Return the leeks to the platter. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, for at least 1 and up to 12 hours.

- 4. Whisk the lemon juice and creme fraiche together in a small bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and whisk again to dissolve the salt. Pour over the chilled leeks, sprinkle with the chives, and serve. Whisk the lemon juice and creme fraiche together in a small bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and whisk again to dissolve the salt. Pour over the chilled leeks, sprinkle with the chives, and serve.

MAIN COURSES.

Roast Chicken with Radicchio, Currant, and Hazelnut Salad Roasted Salmon on Spicy Lentils Cod with Grapefruit, Avocado, and Fennel Salad San Francisco Crab Cioppino Cracked Crab with Green G.o.ddess Dip Rib Roast with Blue Cheese Crust Roast Eye of Round with Dijon-Caper Sauce Braised Short Ribs with Dark Beer and Root Vegetables Sauerbraten Cider-Brined Roast Pork with Sweet Potatoes and Apples Baked Ham with Cranberry-Tangerine Glaze Wine-Braised Sauerkraut and Sausages Soft Tacos with Chipotle Carnitas Spanish Panini with Manchego, Jamon Serrano, and Dates Lamb Shanks with Feta and Olives Black Bean Chili in Roasted Acorn Squash Winter Squash Waffles with Maple-Apple Compote

Roast Chicken with Radicchio, Currant, and Hazelnut Salad Makes 6 servings The perfect roast chicken has crisp, golden brown skin, juicy flesh, and, in my opinion, very few auxiliary flavors to detract from the chicken itself. Over the years, I have unearthed a few secrets that will help create an irresistible bird, which I have collected and listed in "Tips for a Perfect Roast Chicken" on Chapter 3. In this dish, a vinaigrette is created from the pan juices, which, in turn, is used to dress pleasantly bitter radicchio leaves that are toned down with sweet dried currants. The heat from the dressing and the chicken will lightly wilt the radicchio, which will mellow its flavor even more.

One 6-to 6-pound chicken1 teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided2 tablespoons finely minced shallots2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar2 heads radicchio, cored and torn into bite-size pieces cup (2 ounces) hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and coa.r.s.ely chopped1/3 cup dried currants

- 1. Pull the pads of yellow fat from either side of the tail of the chicken. Rinse the chicken and pat dry with paper towels. Let stand at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours. Pull the pads of yellow fat from either side of the tail of the chicken. Rinse the chicken and pat dry with paper towels. Let stand at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours.

- 2. Meanwhile, coa.r.s.ely chop the fat and place in a small saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the fat is rendered and only crisp cracklings remain in the pan, about 20 minutes. Strain into a small bowl, discarding the cracklings, and cool the fat. You should have 2 to 3 tablespoons of rendered fat. Meanwhile, coa.r.s.ely chop the fat and place in a small saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the fat is rendered and only crisp cracklings remain in the pan, about 20 minutes. Strain into a small bowl, discarding the cracklings, and cool the fat. You should have 2 to 3 tablespoons of rendered fat.

- 3. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 425F. Rub the fat all over the chicken. Season the chicken inside and out with the salt and pepper. Place the chicken on its side on a wire rack in a roasting pan. Roast for 20 minutes. Inserting a wooden spoon in the body cavity, turn the chicken on its other side and roast for 20 minutes more. Turn the chicken breast side up and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh, without touching a bone, reads 170F, about 1 hour longer. Transfer the chicken to a carving board and let stand for 20 minutes before carving. Remove the rack from the pan. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 425F. Rub the fat all over the chicken. Season the chicken inside and out with the salt and pepper. Place the chicken on its side on a wire rack in a roasting pan. Roast for 20 minutes. Inserting a wooden spoon in the body cavity, turn the chicken on its other side and roast for 20 minutes more. Turn the chicken breast side up and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh, without touching a bone, reads 170F, about 1 hour longer. Transfer the chicken to a carving board and let stand for 20 minutes before carving. Remove the rack from the pan.

- 4. Pour the drippings from the pan into a small gla.s.s bowl and let stand for 3 minutes. Skim off and discard the clear yellow fat and reserve the brown pan juices. Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil to the pan and heat over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 1 minute. Add the vinegar and then the remaining cup olive oil. Whisk until well combined, sc.r.a.ping up the browned bits in the bottom of the pan. Remove from the heat. Pour the drippings from the pan into a small gla.s.s bowl and let stand for 3 minutes. Skim off and discard the clear yellow fat and reserve the brown pan juices. Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil to the pan and heat over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 1 minute. Add the vinegar and then the remaining cup olive oil. Whisk until well combined, sc.r.a.ping up the browned bits in the bottom of the pan. Remove from the heat.

- 5. Combine the radicchio, hazelnuts, and currants in a large bowl. Add the warm dressing and toss. Season the salad with salt and pepper. Transfer the salad to a large platter. Combine the radicchio, hazelnuts, and currants in a large bowl. Add the warm dressing and toss. Season the salad with salt and pepper. Transfer the salad to a large platter.

- 6. Carve the chicken. Arrange the chicken over the radicchio salad, and season the chicken lightly with salt and pepper. Serve at once. Carve the chicken. Arrange the chicken over the radicchio salad, and season the chicken lightly with salt and pepper. Serve at once.

NoteTo toast and peel hazelnuts, spread the hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 350F oven until the skins are cracked and the flesh under the skin is beginning to brown, about 12 minutes. Wrap the nuts in a coa.r.s.e-textured towel and let cool until easy to handle. Rub the nuts in the towel to remove as much skin as possible (you don't need to remove every bit).

TIPS FOR A PERFECT ROAST CHICKEN.

- Roast a large bird in order to have leftovers for another meal. Think beyond a cold drumstick for lunch, and consider turning the meat into a salad or ca.s.serole.

- Don't discard the carca.s.s from the roast chicken. It can be made into an excellent stock. Saute cup each chopped onion, celery, and carrot in 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a large saucepan. Add the carca.s.s, broken up into manageable pieces, and add enough cold water to cover. (If your chicken came with giblets, reserve the neck, heart, and gizzard-but not the liver-and add them to the pot.) Bring to a simmer, skim off any foam from the surface, and add teaspoon dried thyme and bay leaf. Simmer for a couple of hours, then strain.

- The chicken will roast more evenly if allowed to stand at room temperature for an hour or two to lose its chill from the refrigerator. A rinse under lukewarm water will also gently warm up the poultry.

- Rendered chicken fat promotes a beautifully browned bird. If the fat has been removed from the tail area of your chicken, subst.i.tute 2 tablespoons of softened unsalted b.u.t.ter for the rendered fat. The milk solids in the b.u.t.ter will encourage browning better than olive or vegetable oil.

- Turning the bird to expose the skin on all sides to the oven heat also makes a picture-perfect chicken with crackling skin. If you don't have time to do this, you'll still have delicious chicken, even if the back skin is a little wan.

- Don't be afraid of the relatively high oven temperature. It will make the chicken splatter, but cleaning the oven is worth the trade-off for a great chicken. You won't get the same results if you chicken out and reduce the temperature to 350F.

Roasted Salmon on Spicy Lentils Makes 4 servings Rich salmon can hold its own against bold seasonings. Here, roasted fillets are served on lentils with a blend of southwestern spices. Roasting lightly caramelizes the top of the salmon to deepen the flavor. Small, dark olive green lentilles de Puy lentilles de Puy have a brighter color than the typical brown lentils, and cook in less time, too. You find them at natural food stores and gourmet shops. have a brighter color than the typical brown lentils, and cook in less time, too. You find them at natural food stores and gourmet shops.

SPICY L LENTILS1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil1 small onion, chopped cup seeded and finely diced red bell pepper1 garlic clove, minced1 teaspoon chili powder teaspoon ground c.u.min teaspoon ground coriander1 cup green French lentils (lentilles de Puy), rinsed and sorted over for stones2 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade, or use canned low-sodium broth teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the baking sheet1 pounds center-cut salmon fillet with skinSalt and freshly ground black pepper

- 1. To make the lentils, heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until it is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the chili powder, c.u.min, and coriander, and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the lentils, then the stock. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer until the lentils are tender, about 30 minutes. During the last 5 minutes, stir in the salt. To make the lentils, heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until it is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the chili powder, c.u.min, and coriander, and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the lentils, then the stock. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer until the lentils are tender, about 30 minutes. During the last 5 minutes, stir in the salt.

- 2. Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400F. Lightly oil a large rimmed baking sheet. Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400F. Lightly oil a large rimmed baking sheet.

- 3. Lightly oil the salmon flesh and season with salt and pepper. Place the salmon on the baking sheet, skin side down. Cut the salmon vertically into 4 serving portions, but do not separate the pieces. Roast until the salmon shows the barest sign of pink when pierced in the thickest part with the tip of a knife, about 10 minutes. Lightly oil the salmon flesh and season with salt and pepper. Place the salmon on the baking sheet, skin side down. Cut the salmon vertically into 4 serving portions, but do not separate the pieces. Roast until the salmon shows the barest sign of pink when pierced in the thickest part with the tip of a knife, about 10 minutes.

- 4. Divide the lentils evenly among 4 soup bowls. Top each with a portion of the salmon, and serve hot. Divide the lentils evenly among 4 soup bowls. Top each with a portion of the salmon, and serve hot.

Cod with Grapefruit, Avocado, and Fennel Salad Makes 4 servings This light and refres.h.i.+ng dish puts me in mind of long weekends in Florida or some other tropical paradise. It takes just a few minutes to prepare, but the melange of colors and textures is restaurant-worthy. Other mild, firm-fleshed fish fillets, such as red snapper or tilapia, can stand in for the cod.

GRAPEFRUIT, AVOCADO, AND F FENNEL S SALAD1 small fennel bulb, preferably with fronds attached1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice cup olive oilSalt and freshly ground black pepper1 ripe avocado, pitted, peeled, and cut into -inch dice1 pink or red grapefruit, peel removed, cut between the membranes into segments Four 5-to 6-ounce portions cod filletSalt and freshly ground black pepper2 teaspoons olive oil

- 1. To prepare the salad, cut the fennel in half lengthwise. If the fronds are attached, cut them off and reserve. Cut out and discard the triangular core at the base of the bulb. Cut one fennel half crosswise into thin half-moons. Reserve the remaining fennel half and stalks for another use. To prepare the salad, cut the fennel in half lengthwise. If the fronds are attached, cut them off and reserve. Cut out and discard the triangular core at the base of the bulb. Cut one fennel half crosswise into thin half-moons. Reserve the remaining fennel half and stalks for another use.

- 2. Whisk the lemon juice and oil together in a medium bowl until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the fennel, avocado, and grapefruit, and mix gently. Set aside while preparing the cod. Whisk the lemon juice and oil together in a medium bowl until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the fennel, avocado, and grapefruit, and mix gently. Set aside while preparing the cod.

- 3. Season the cod with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the cod and cover. Cook until the undersides are golden, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook, uncovered, adjusting the heat as needed, until the other side is golden brown and the cod looks barely opaque when flaked in the center with the tip of a knife, about 3 minutes more. Meanwhile, chop enough of the reserved fronds to measure 2 teaspoons. Season the cod with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the cod and cover. Cook until the undersides are golden, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook, uncovered, adjusting the heat as needed, until the other side is golden brown and the cod looks barely opaque when flaked in the center with the tip of a knife, about 3 minutes more. Meanwhile, chop enough of the reserved fronds to measure 2 teaspoons.

- 4. Place a fish fillet and a portion of the salad on each of 4 dinner plates, sprinkle with the chopped fronds, if using, and serve immediately. Place a fish fillet and a portion of the salad on each of 4 dinner plates, sprinkle with the chopped fronds, if using, and serve immediately.

San Francisco Crab Cioppino Makes 6 servings Cioppino, the Mediterranean-inspired but purely Californian sh.e.l.lfish stew, is one of the best ways to savor the winter's Dungeness crab. I have many happy memories of cooking up a pot of cioppino in my flat in San Francisco, with its fragrant steam fogging up the kitchen windows. As an experienced cioppino cook and eater, I can tell you that it is as messy to eat as it is delicious. Serve it in large, wide bowls with big napkins (or bibs), nutcrackers, and long-stemmed sh.e.l.lfish forks to get the meat out of the sh.e.l.ls, a bowl to collect said sh.e.l.ls, and bowls of hot lemon water for cleaning your fingers. And don't forget crusty sourdough bread!

3 tablespoons olive oil1 medium onion, chopped1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced1 cups chopped fresh fennel4 garlic cloves, chopped1 cups dry white wine, such as Pinot GrigioOne 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes in pureeOne 8-ounce can tomato sauce2 cups bottled clam juice1 teaspoon dried oregano1 teaspoon dried basil teaspoon fennel seed teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes, or more to tasteSalt3 cooked and cracked Dungeness crabs (see Cracked Crab with Green G.o.ddess Dip, Chapter 3), about 2 pounds eachChopped fresh parsley, for garnish

- 1. Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, and fennel. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, about 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and increase the heat to high. Boil until the wine is slightly reduced, about 3 minutes. Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, and fennel. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, about 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and increase the heat to high. Boil until the wine is slightly reduced, about 3 minutes.

- 2. Add the tomatoes and their puree, the tomato sauce, clam juice, oregano, basil, fennel seed, and red pepper flakes. Bring to a boil, stirring often. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until lightly thickened, about 1 hour. Season with salt to taste and more pepper flakes, if you wish. Add the tomatoes and their puree, the tomato sauce, clam juice, oregano, basil, fennel seed, and red pepper flakes. Bring to a boil, stirring often. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until lightly thickened, about 1 hour. Season with salt to taste and more pepper flakes, if you wish.

- 3. Add the cracked crab to the pot and cover. Cook just until the until the crab is heated through, about 3 minutes. Add the cracked crab to the pot and cover. Cook just until the until the crab is heated through, about 3 minutes.

- 4. Using a ladle and tongs, transfer the cioppino to deep soup bowls. Sprinkle with parsley and serve hot. Tell your guests that it is perfectly fine (if not imperative) to pick up the crab with their fingers. Using a ladle and tongs, transfer the cioppino to deep soup bowls. Sprinkle with parsley and serve hot. Tell your guests that it is perfectly fine (if not imperative) to pick up the crab with their fingers.

VariationCrabmeat Cioppino: I admit that eating cla.s.sic crab cioppino in the sh.e.l.l is a little sloppy. For a more elegant presentation, subst.i.tute sh.e.l.led crabmeat for the cracked crab. If using fresh crab, remove the crabmeat from the three cooked crabs, and stir the sh.e.l.led crabmeat into the cioppino broth. Or use 1 pound of cooked lump crabmeat (preferably not pasteurized), picked over for sh.e.l.ls and cartilage. I admit that eating cla.s.sic crab cioppino in the sh.e.l.l is a little sloppy. For a more elegant presentation, subst.i.tute sh.e.l.led crabmeat for the cracked crab. If using fresh crab, remove the crabmeat from the three cooked crabs, and stir the sh.e.l.led crabmeat into the cioppino broth. Or use 1 pound of cooked lump crabmeat (preferably not pasteurized), picked over for sh.e.l.ls and cartilage.

Cracked Crab with Green G.o.ddess Dip Makes 4 servings One of the best meals I ever had was at a prewedding dinner for my friends Roseanne and George Dobbins. It was in San Francisco, and all we ate was a mountain of sweet, cracked Dungeness crab with this dip, sourdough bread, and a modest green salad, downed with bottles of Chardonnay. Live Dungeness crabs used to be available only on the West Coast during their winter season, but they are now sold all over the country at many supermarkets and Asian grocers. While you can easily buy freshly cooked and cracked crab from Seattle to San Diego, outside of that region, you may have to cook the crabs yourself. Here's how, and it is the method to use if you are making the cioppino on Chapter 3.

GREEN G G.o.dDESS D DIPGrated zest of 1 lemon2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice1 teaspoon anchovy paste1 cups mayonnaise3 tablespoons nonpareil capers, drained and rinsed2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh tarragonFreshly ground black pepper 4 live Dungeness crabs, about 2 pounds each

- 1. To make the dip, whisk together the lemon zest and juice with the anchovy paste in a medium bowl to dissolve the anchovy paste. Add the mayonnaise, capers, parsley, chives, and tarragon. Season with pepper to taste. Stir well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. (The dip can be made up to 3 days ahead.) To make the dip, whisk together the lemon zest and juice with the anchovy paste in a medium bowl to dissolve the anchovy paste. Add the mayonnaise, capers, parsley, chives, and tarragon. Season with pepper to taste. Stir well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. (The dip can be made up to 3 days ahead.) - 2. Bring a very large pot of salted water to a rolling boil over high heat. Using tongs, add 1 crab to the pot and cover. Cook for 3 minutes, then set the lid ajar. Continue cooking until the crab is deep red-orange, about 20 minutes (or about 15 minutes for smaller crabs). Using tongs, transfer the crab to a large bowl of cold water, and let stand until easy to handle. Repeat with the remaining crabs, adding more boiling water to the pot as needed. (See Note.) Bring a very large pot of salted water to a rolling boil over high heat. Using tongs, add 1 crab to the pot and cover. Cook for 3 minutes, then set the lid ajar. Continue cooking until the crab is deep red-orange, about 20 minutes (or about 15 minutes for smaller crabs). Using tongs, transfer the crab to a large bowl of cold water, and let stand until easy to handle. Repeat with the remaining crabs, adding more boiling water to the pot as needed. (See Note.) - 3. To clean and crack the crabs, work with 1 crab at a time. Turn the crab upside down. Locate and pull off the small triangular "ap.r.o.n" in the lower center of the crab. Pull off the small flippers at the front of the crab. Pull off the top sh.e.l.l in one piece, discarding the sh.e.l.l and any liquid in it. Discard the reddish membrane and any viscera in the body. (Some people save the yellow "fat," but there isn't much and it isn't worth it, in my opinion.) Rinse the body under cold running water. Remove the legs and claws. Using a flat meat cleaver, crack the sh.e.l.ls of the legs and claws. Using a heavy knife, cut the body into quarters. Transfer all of the crab pieces to a large bowl. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 and up to 12 hours. To clean and crack the crabs, work with 1 crab at a time. Turn the crab upside down. Locate and pull off the small triangular "ap.r.o.n" in the lower center of the crab. Pull off the small flippers at the front of the crab. Pull off the top sh.e.l.l in one piece, discarding the sh.e.l.l and any liquid in it. Discard the reddish membrane and any viscera in the body. (Some people save the yellow "fat," but there isn't much and it isn't worth it, in my opinion.) Rinse the body under cold running water. Remove the legs and claws. Using a flat meat cleaver, crack the sh.e.l.ls of the legs and claws. Using a heavy knife, cut the body into quarters. Transfer all of the crab pieces to a large bowl. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 and up to 12 hours.

- 4. Serve chilled, with nutcrackers, sh.e.l.lfish forks, and bowls for the sh.e.l.ls, as well as individual bowls of the dip. Serve chilled, with nutcrackers, sh.e.l.lfish forks, and bowls for the sh.e.l.ls, as well as individual bowls of the dip.

NoteEven if you have a huge pot, it is most efficient to cook the crabs one at a time. The water should be boiling furiously when the crab is added, which will hasten its final dispatching. Two pots of water will speed things up.

Rib Roast with Blue Cheese Crust Makes 6 servings To many cooks, a large, impressive rib roast is the main course of choice for a winter holiday feast. No matter how many other options present themselves, I usually fall back on good old rib roast myself. In an effort to make it different than the straightforward version I've offered in the past, here is a glorious roast with a delicious crust to accent the lush meat. I like this roast just as it is, but you can serve a sauceboat of homemade beef stock alongside to make it "au jus."

One 3-pound rib roast1 teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 tablespoon Dijon mustard2/3 cup fresh bread crumbs cup (2 ounces) crumbled blue cheese (see Note)

- 1. Trim excess fat from the surface of the roast. Season the roast all over with the salt and pepper. Let the roast stand at room temperature for at least 1 and up to 2 hours. Trim excess fat from the surface of the roast. Season the roast all over with the salt and pepper. Let the roast stand at room temperature for at least 1 and up to 2 hours.