Winter Gatherings Part 5

Cheese Ravioli with Wild Mushroom and Marsala Sauce Makes 4 to 6 servings My neighbor Josephine de Pietro runs the best Italian delicatessen in our area, and they make their own ravioli. I find it hard to pa.s.s up a bowl of plump, cheese-filled ravioli under any circ.u.mstances, but when they are handmade, there's no turning back. Instead of the familiar tomato sauce, serve this robust mushroom topping, which is perfect for the winter season.

WILD M MUSHROOM AND M MARSALA S SAUCE2 tablespoons pure olive oil, plus more as needed10 ounces cremini mushrooms, thickly sliced10 ounces s.h.i.+take mushrooms, stems removed, caps thickly sliced2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter1 medium onion, finely chopped2 garlic cloves, finely chopped2 tablespoons tomato paste cup dry Marsala (see Note)1 cups beef or chicken stock, preferably homemade, or use canned low-sodium broth cup heavy cream1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary, plus more for garnish1 teaspoons cornstarchSalt and freshly ground black pepper Two 13-ounce packages large cheese ravioli (24 ravioli)Freshly grated Parmesan, for serving

- 1. To make the mushroom sauce, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. In batches, add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, adding more oil as needed, until they give off their juices and begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl. To make the mushroom sauce, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. In batches, add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, adding more oil as needed, until they give off their juices and begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.

- 2. Add the b.u.t.ter to the skillet and heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it gives off its fragrance, about 1 minute. Dissolve the tomato paste in the Marsala and stir into the skillet. Increase the heat to high and boil the wine until it is reduced by half, about 1 minute. Add the b.u.t.ter to the skillet and heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it gives off its fragrance, about 1 minute. Dissolve the tomato paste in the Marsala and stir into the skillet. Increase the heat to high and boil the wine until it is reduced by half, about 1 minute.

- 3. Combine the stock, cream, and rosemary in a small bowl. Sprinkle in the cornstarch and stir to dissolve. Return the mushrooms to the skillet and pour in the stock mixture. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 5 minutes to blend the flavors. Season with salt and pepper to taste. (The sauce can be made to this point up to 2 hours ahead. Reheat before continuing.) Combine the stock, cream, and rosemary in a small bowl. Sprinkle in the cornstarch and stir to dissolve. Return the mushrooms to the skillet and pour in the stock mixture. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 5 minutes to blend the flavors. Season with salt and pepper to taste. (The sauce can be made to this point up to 2 hours ahead. Reheat before continuing.) - 4. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the ravioli and cook, stirring occasionally, according to the package directions, until tender. Drain well. Return to the pot, add the sauce, and stir gently. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the ravioli and cook, stirring occasionally, according to the package directions, until tender. Drain well. Return to the pot, add the sauce, and stir gently.

- 5. Spoon the ravioli into soup bowls and garnish with a sprinkle of rosemary. Serve hot, with the Parmesan on the side. Spoon the ravioli into soup bowls and garnish with a sprinkle of rosemary. Serve hot, with the Parmesan on the side.

NoteMarsala, originally a fortified wine from Sicily, is similar to sherry. Bakers use sweet Marsala to make tiramisu and other Italian-style desserts. For savory dishes, such as this one, or the ubiquitous Chicken Marsala you find on many Italian-American menus, it is better to use dry Marsala, which has a less cloying flavor. Madeira or a dry sherry is a good subst.i.tute.

Homemade Spaetzle with Herb b.u.t.ter Makes 4 to 6 servings When pressed for a side dish, I often throw together a batch of spaetzle, which could be considered the German answer to homemade pasta. The little noodle blobs are perfect for soaking up gravy, and I always try to serve them with sauerbraten. If you don't already own one, get an inexpensive spaetzle maker online or at a well-stocked kitchenware shop. Some recipes say you can drip the batter through a colander into boiling water to shape the spaetzle, but that is wishful thinking.

2 cups all-purpose flour1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 cups whole milk2 large eggs 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley or chives, or a combination

- 1. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat.

- 2. Whisk the flour, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl and make a well in the center. In another bowl, whisk the milk and eggs together until combined. Pour into the well and whisk until smooth and the consistency of pancake batter. Whisk the flour, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl and make a well in the center. In another bowl, whisk the milk and eggs together until combined. Pour into the well and whisk until smooth and the consistency of pancake batter.

- 3. Place the spaetzle maker over the boiling water. Pour the batter into the hopper and move it back and forth to force the batter through the holes into the water. When all of the batter has been added, let cook until the spaetzle rise to the surface, and then cook for 1 minute. Drain well. (The spaetzle can be prepared up to 2 hours ahead. Rinse them well with cold running water, then toss with 1 tablespoon vegetable oil to keep them from sticking together.) Place the spaetzle maker over the boiling water. Pour the batter into the hopper and move it back and forth to force the batter through the holes into the water. When all of the batter has been added, let cook until the spaetzle rise to the surface, and then cook for 1 minute. Drain well. (The spaetzle can be prepared up to 2 hours ahead. Rinse them well with cold running water, then toss with 1 tablespoon vegetable oil to keep them from sticking together.) - 4. Heat the b.u.t.ter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until the foam subsides. Add the spaetzle and cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, about 2 minutes (or 5 minutes for room-temperature spaetzle). Sprinkle with the parsley and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot. Heat the b.u.t.ter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until the foam subsides. Add the spaetzle and cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, about 2 minutes (or 5 minutes for room-temperature spaetzle). Sprinkle with the parsley and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

SIDE DISHES.

Latkes with Apple-Jalapeno Salsa Mashed Roots with Crispy Shallots Potato and Garlic Gratin Root Vegetables Anna Mashed Potato Ca.s.serole with Smoked Gouda and Bacon Mom's Red Cabbage Five-Spice Applesauce Braised Kale with Cornmeal Dumplings

Latkes with Apple-Jalapeno Salsa Makes 12 latkes Hanukkah is almost always celebrated in late fall, but it is considered a winter holiday. Even though I am not Jewish, I still look forward to my annual reason to dig into a plate of latkes, the potato pancakes that are the cla.s.sic Hanukkah dish. I serve both this jazzed-up apple condiment as well as the more old-fas.h.i.+oned Five-Spice Applesauce on Chapter 5. One important tip: Don't skimp on the oil, as latkes are supposed to be fried fried.

APPLE-JALAPEnO S SALSA1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and finely diced2 teaspoons fresh lime juice1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots1 jalapeno, seeds and ribs removed, finely chopped1 tablespoon honey1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantroPinch of saltLATKES2 pounds baking potatoes, peeled1 medium onion2 large eggs, beaten2 tablespoons matzo meal or dried bread crumbs1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepperVegetable oil, for fryingSour cream, for serving

- 1. To make the salsa, combine the apple and lime juice in a small bowl. Add the shallots, jalapeno, honey, cilantro, and salt, and mix. Set aside at room temperature while making the latkes. To make the salsa, combine the apple and lime juice in a small bowl. Add the shallots, jalapeno, honey, cilantro, and salt, and mix. Set aside at room temperature while making the latkes.

- 2. To make the latkes, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 200F. Line a baking sheet with a wire cake rack. To make the latkes, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 200F. Line a baking sheet with a wire cake rack.

- 3. Shred the potatoes on the large holes of a box grater into a bowl. Grate the onions into the bowl. (Or, use a food processor to grate the potatoes and onions.) Add the eggs, matzo meal, salt, and pepper, and mix well. Do not be concerned if the potatoes discolor. Shred the potatoes on the large holes of a box grater into a bowl. Grate the onions into the bowl. (Or, use a food processor to grate the potatoes and onions.) Add the eggs, matzo meal, salt, and pepper, and mix well. Do not be concerned if the potatoes discolor.

- 4. Pour enough oil into a large skillet to come about 1/8 inch up the side and heat over medium-high heat until the oil s.h.i.+mmers. Using about cup of the potato mixture for each pancake, spoon into the oil and spread into 3-inch-diameter pancakes. Cook until the underside is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Turn and cook until the other side is brown, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to the rack and keep warm in the oven while making the remaining latkes. Pour enough oil into a large skillet to come about 1/8 inch up the side and heat over medium-high heat until the oil s.h.i.+mmers. Using about cup of the potato mixture for each pancake, spoon into the oil and spread into 3-inch-diameter pancakes. Cook until the underside is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Turn and cook until the other side is brown, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to the rack and keep warm in the oven while making the remaining latkes.

- 5. Just before serving, transfer the latkes to paper towels to drain. (If the latkes remain on the paper towels more than a minute or so, they will get soggy.) Serve immediately, with the salsa and sour cream on the side. Just before serving, transfer the latkes to paper towels to drain. (If the latkes remain on the paper towels more than a minute or so, they will get soggy.) Serve immediately, with the salsa and sour cream on the side.

Mashed Roots with Crispy Shallots Makes 6 servings Mashed potatoes have their place, but often this earthy mix of carrots, parsnips, and potatoes is even more satisfying. It is certainly more colorful! Topped with a tangle of golden brown shallots, it will have everyone asking for seconds.

MASHED R ROOTS1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into -inch-thick rounds1 pound parsnips, peeled and cut into -inch-thick rounds1 pound baking potatoes, such as russet or Burbank, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter3 tablespoons heavy cream, as neededSalt and freshly ground black pepperCRISPY S SHALLOTSVegetable oil, for frying2 shallots, cut crosswise into thin rounds, separated into rings cup all-purpose flour

- 1. To prepare the mashed roots, combine the carrots, parsnips, and potatoes in a large saucepan, and add enough salted water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until tender, about 25 minutes. To prepare the mashed roots, combine the carrots, parsnips, and potatoes in a large saucepan, and add enough salted water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until tender, about 25 minutes.

- 2. Drain well and return the vegetables to the saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until they begin to film the bottom of the pan, about 2 minutes. Drain well and return the vegetables to the saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until they begin to film the bottom of the pan, about 2 minutes.

- 3. Remove from the heat. Add the b.u.t.ter and mash, adding enough heavy cream to reach the desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover tightly to keep warm. Remove from the heat. Add the b.u.t.ter and mash, adding enough heavy cream to reach the desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover tightly to keep warm.

- 4. To make the shallots, line a baking sheet with paper towels. Pour enough oil into a large saucepan to come 1 inch up the side. Heat over high heat until the oil is s.h.i.+mmering. Toss the shallots with the flour and shake off the excess flour. Add the shallots to the oil and cook until golden brown, about 15 seconds. (Do a test run first with a few shallot rings to check the oil temperature.) Using a wire skimmer, lift the shallots out of the oil and drain briefly on paper towels. To make the shallots, line a baking sheet with paper towels. Pour enough oil into a large saucepan to come 1 inch up the side. Heat over high heat until the oil is s.h.i.+mmering. Toss the shallots with the flour and shake off the excess flour. Add the shallots to the oil and cook until golden brown, about 15 seconds. (Do a test run first with a few shallot rings to check the oil temperature.) Using a wire skimmer, lift the shallots out of the oil and drain briefly on paper towels.

- 5. Transfer the mashed roots to a serving dish, top with the crispy shallots, and serve immediately. Transfer the mashed roots to a serving dish, top with the crispy shallots, and serve immediately.

Potato and Garlic Gratin Makes 8 servings Every year at Christmas dinner, I have to serve this gratin by popular demand. Even though I have recipes for gratins with much bolder flavor profiles, there must be something about the simplicity of the combination of potatoes, cream, and garlic that makes this one so comforting. Yes, it takes an entire quart of cream, but that is the secret to the recipe. If someone asks why this is so much better than their scalloped potatoes, do what I do-fib about the amount of cream. The gratin takes some time to cook, so don't rush it.

1 quart heavy cream6 garlic cloves, coa.r.s.ely chopped2 teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper3 pounds baking potatoes, such as russet or Burbank, peeled and cut into 1/8-inch-thick rounds (see Note)

- 1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375F. Lightly b.u.t.ter a 13 x 9-inch baking dish. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375F. Lightly b.u.t.ter a 13 x 9-inch baking dish.

- 2. Slowly bring the cream and garlic to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, taking care that the cream doesn't boil over. Remove from the heat. Slowly bring the cream and garlic to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, taking care that the cream doesn't boil over. Remove from the heat.

- 3. Mix the salt and pepper together. Layer half of the potato rounds, overlapping as needed, in the baking dish. Using a slotted spoon, remove the garlic from the cream and scatter the garlic over the potatoes. Season with half of the salt and pepper mixture. Layer the remaining potatoes in the dish and season with the remaining salt and pepper mixture. Pour the hot cream evenly over the potatoes. Cover the dish with aluminum foil. Mix the salt and pepper together. Layer half of the potato rounds, overlapping as needed, in the baking dish. Using a slotted spoon, remove the garlic from the cream and scatter the garlic over the potatoes. Season with half of the salt and pepper mixture. Layer the remaining potatoes in the dish and season with the remaining salt and pepper mixture. Pour the hot cream evenly over the potatoes. Cover the dish with aluminum foil.

- 4. Place the baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake for 45 minutes. Remove the foil. Bake until the potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife and the top of the gratin is golden brown, about 45 minutes longer. Let stand for 5 minutes, then serve hot. Place the baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake for 45 minutes. Remove the foil. Bake until the potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife and the top of the gratin is golden brown, about 45 minutes longer. Let stand for 5 minutes, then serve hot.

NoteAn inexpensive V-shaped slicer (which I find so much easier to use than the cla.s.sic metal mandoline) will cut the potatoes into uniformly thin rounds, and is a good addition to your kitchen if you don't already own one. Or buy narrow potatoes that will fit into the feed tube of a food processor, and cut them with the slicing blade. Of course the potatoes can be sliced by hand with a large knife, but be sure to cut them thinly, or they will take forever to cook to tenderness.

Root Vegetables Anna Makes 6 servings This is an elegant presentation for humble root vegetables-a crisp outer sh.e.l.l of thinly sliced potatoes enclosing a tender filling of sweet celery root and earthy turnips. A mandoline or food processor will make short work of the slicing.

3 baking potatoes, such as russet or Burbank (1 pounds) medium celery root (also known as celeriac)1 medium turnip6 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary

- 1. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

- 2. Peel the potatoes, celery root, and turnip. Using a V-shaped slicer or food processor, cut the potatoes into 1/8-inch-thick rounds. Place in a bowl, but do not rinse or cover with water. Repeat with the celery root and turnip; you should have about 2 cups combined celery root and turnip. Peel the potatoes, celery root, and turnip. Using a V-shaped slicer or food processor, cut the potatoes into 1/8-inch-thick rounds. Place in a bowl, but do not rinse or cover with water. Repeat with the celery root and turnip; you should have about 2 cups combined celery root and turnip.

- 3. Immediately melt the b.u.t.ter in a 9-inch-diameter nonstick skillet over medium heat. Pour out all but 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter into a heatproof bowl. Arrange half of the potatoes in concentric circles in the skillet. Season with half of the salt and pepper. Arrange the celery root and turnip over the potatoes and sprinkle with the rosemary. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the remaining b.u.t.ter and half of the remaining salt and pepper. Top with the remaining potatoes and salt and pepper. Press the vegetables with your hands to make an even thickness. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover tightly, preferably with a flat, and not domed, lid. Cook until the bottom layer of the potatoes is golden brown, about 20 minutes. Immediately melt the b.u.t.ter in a 9-inch-diameter nonstick skillet over medium heat. Pour out all but 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter into a heatproof bowl. Arrange half of the potatoes in concentric circles in the skillet. Season with half of the salt and pepper. Arrange the celery root and turnip over the potatoes and sprinkle with the rosemary. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the remaining b.u.t.ter and half of the remaining salt and pepper. Top with the remaining potatoes and salt and pepper. Press the vegetables with your hands to make an even thickness. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover tightly, preferably with a flat, and not domed, lid. Cook until the bottom layer of the potatoes is golden brown, about 20 minutes.

- 4. Holding the lid and skillet together, invert to unmold the root vegetable "cake" onto the lid. (If your skillet lid is domed, subst.i.tute a large, flat plate when inverting the vegetables.) Pour the remaining b.u.t.ter into the skillet and swirl the skillet to coat the inside with b.u.t.ter. Slide the cake off the lid and back into the skillet, browned side up. If the skillet handle is not heatproof, wrap in aluminum foil. Holding the lid and skillet together, invert to unmold the root vegetable "cake" onto the lid. (If your skillet lid is domed, subst.i.tute a large, flat plate when inverting the vegetables.) Pour the remaining b.u.t.ter into the skillet and swirl the skillet to coat the inside with b.u.t.ter. Slide the cake off the lid and back into the skillet, browned side up. If the skillet handle is not heatproof, wrap in aluminum foil.

- 5. Place the cake in the oven and bake until the vegetables are tender when pierced with a sharp knife, about 30 minutes. Slide onto a platter, cut into wedges, and serve. Place the cake in the oven and bake until the vegetables are tender when pierced with a sharp knife, about 30 minutes. Slide onto a platter, cut into wedges, and serve.

Root VegetablesNature works in very mysterious ways. Just when the delicate fruits and vegetables of summer are depleted, another source of food appears to give us sustenance. These are the root vegetables, which feed humans throughout the cold, barren winter until spring's bounty emerges.Not all of a plant is edible. Sometimes we eat only the leaves, or just the fruit that contains the seeds that regenerate the plant. With others, the root that grows under the ground is the edible part. Roots collect the moisture in the ground and send it up to the leaves. To retain this moisture, their skins are tough. Even though you may hear that you should not peel root vegetables in order to benefit from the vitamins in the skins, for the best texture, peel them.When the roots are pulled up, these same tough skins are actually beneficial, because they allow the vegetables to be kept for quite a while before drying out, even without the benefit of electrical refrigeration. The cla.s.sic root cellar of the American farm was a cool, dark place where the vegetables could be stored throughout the long, cold winter. Some vegetables are commonly considered root vegetables even though they are tubers (potatoes and beets, for example), where the edible portions grow between the leaves and the roots.Root vegetables are sweet because they also are the receptacle for the plants' starches, which are converted into sugars by enzymes. Many recipes for root vegetables play up this inherent sweetness with a little added sugar. Roasting is one of the best ways to cook root vegetables because browning brings out the sugary flavors.

Mashed Potato Ca.s.serole with Smoked Gouda and Bacon Makes 6 to 8 servings This ca.s.serole was created as an over-the-top potato accompaniment for a simply prepared pork loin or roast chicken. It has a double dose of smoked ingredients with both bacon and smoked Gouda. A crunchy bacon-and-scallion topping acts as a counterpoint to the creamy potatoes, and is part of this dish's charm.

6 bacon strips, preferably thick-sliced applewood smoked3 scallions, green and white parts, finely chopped3 pounds baking potatoes, such as russet or Burbank, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, plus more for the baking dish cup sour cream1/3 cup milk2 cups (8 ounces) shredded smoked Gouda

- 1. Cook the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat, turning occasionally, until crisp and brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain and cool. Chop the cooked bacon. Combine the bacon and scallions; set aside. Cook the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat, turning occasionally, until crisp and brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain and cool. Chop the cooked bacon. Combine the bacon and scallions; set aside.

- 2. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan and add enough cold salted water to cover. Cover the saucepan with a lid and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook with the lid ajar until the potatoes are tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain well. Return the potatoes to the empty saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring often, until the potatoes film the bottom of the saucepan, about 2 minutes. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan and add enough cold salted water to cover. Cover the saucepan with a lid and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook with the lid ajar until the potatoes are tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain well. Return the potatoes to the empty saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring often, until the potatoes film the bottom of the saucepan, about 2 minutes.

- 3. b.u.t.ter a 13 x 9-inch baking dish. Add the b.u.t.ter, sour cream, and milk to the potatoes. Mash with a potato masher (or beat with an electric hand mixer on low speed) until smooth. Stir in 1 cups of the Gouda and two-thirds of the bacon mixture; reserve the remaining bacon mixture. Spread in the baking dish. Sprinkle the remaining cup Gouda on top. (The ca.s.serole and the bacon mixture can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead, but keep them separately covered and refrigerated. Remove the bacon mixture from the refrigerator 1 hour before serving.) b.u.t.ter a 13 x 9-inch baking dish. Add the b.u.t.ter, sour cream, and milk to the potatoes. Mash with a potato masher (or beat with an electric hand mixer on low speed) until smooth. Stir in 1 cups of the Gouda and two-thirds of the bacon mixture; reserve the remaining bacon mixture. Spread in the baking dish. Sprinkle the remaining cup Gouda on top. (The ca.s.serole and the bacon mixture can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead, but keep them separately covered and refrigerated. Remove the bacon mixture from the refrigerator 1 hour before serving.) - 4. Preheat the oven to 350F. Bake until the cheese melts and the edges of the mashed potatoes are bubbling, about 30 minutes (or about 40 minutes if refrigerated). Sprinkle with the reserved bacon mixture and serve hot. Preheat the oven to 350F. Bake until the cheese melts and the edges of the mashed potatoes are bubbling, about 30 minutes (or about 40 minutes if refrigerated). Sprinkle with the reserved bacon mixture and serve hot.

Mom's Red Cabbage Makes 8 servings This is based on my mom's red cabbage, which, in turn, comes from her mother's version. Of course, like most all mothers, Mom isn't too concerned about measurements or even precise ingredients. Sometimes she'll subst.i.tute fruit preserves or even Chinese plum sauce for some of the sugar. This makes a healthy amount of cabbage, but that's okay, because leftovers are even better than freshly made.

2 bacon strips, coa.r.s.ely chopped2 teaspoons vegetable oil2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and cut into -inch dice1 medium onion, choppedOne 2-pound head red cabbage, cored and cut into thin shreds cup red wine vinegar cup packed light brown sugar1 teaspoon dried thyme1 bay leafSalt and freshly ground black pepper

- 1. Cook the bacon and oil together in a large saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is crisp and browned, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels, leaving the fat in the saucepan. Cook the bacon and oil together in a large saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is crisp and browned, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels, leaving the fat in the saucepan.

- 2. Add the apples to the saucepan and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in the onion and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the cabbage and vinegar, and stir well. Add the brown sugar, thyme, and bay leaf, and stir again. Return the bacon to the saucepan. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is very tender, about 1 hours. Add the apples to the saucepan and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in the onion and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the cabbage and vinegar, and stir well. Add the brown sugar, thyme, and bay leaf, and stir again. Return the bacon to the saucepan. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is very tender, about 1 hours.

- 3. Remove the bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve hot. Remove the bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve hot.

Five-Spice Applesauce Makes about 5 cups Making applesauce is a winter tradition for many cooks, and I like to have a container in the refrigerator for serving with pork chops, roast turkey, and, of course, latkes. You can make applesauce of just about any apple, or combination, as long as you avoid Red Delicious, which melt into a glop. And a little wine or hard cider and interesting Asian-style spicing elevates this applesauce from Grandma's.

1 whole star anise teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns1/8 teaspoon fennel seed teaspoon ground cinnamon1/8 teaspoon ground cloves3 pounds all-purpose apples, such as Macoun, Cortland, or Golden Delicious, peeled, cored, and cut into 1-inch chunks cup semidry white wine, such as Riesling, hard cider, or water1/3 cup sugar2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

- 1. Grind the star anise, peppercorns, and fennel seed in an electric spice grinder or in a mortar. Add the cinnamon and cloves. Sift through a fine-mesh wire sieve to remove any hard bark. Grind the star anise, peppercorns, and fennel seed in an electric spice grinder or in a mortar. Add the cinnamon and cloves. Sift through a fine-mesh wire sieve to remove any hard bark.

- 2. Combine the apples, wine, sugar, spices, and lemon juice in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook, stirring often (the harder you stir, the more the apples will break down), until the apples have formed a thick, chunky sauce, about 15 minutes. Combine the apples, wine, sugar, spices, and lemon juice in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook, stirring often (the harder you stir, the more the apples will break down), until the apples have formed a thick, chunky sauce, about 15 minutes.

- 3. Serve warm or cooled to room temperature. (The applesauce can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 5 days.) Serve warm or cooled to room temperature. (The applesauce can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 5 days.)

Braised Kale with Cornmeal Dumplings Makes 6 to 8 servings I devised this pot of greens with tender cornmeal dumplings as a side dish for Southern-inspired main courses like baked ham and fried chicken. It makes a lot, but I don't mind, because leftovers are quickly transformed into soup with some chicken or pork stock. My market carries three kinds of kale: bright green standard kale, dark green curly kale, and the very dark Italian "dinosaur" kale also known as cavolo nero cavolo nero. Use the one you like, or even a combination.