Cocoa and Chocolate Part 10

Many will recall how Charles Kingsley's longing to see the tropics was ultimately satisfied. In his book, in which he describes how he "At Last" visited the West Indies, we read that he encountered a happy Scotchman living a quiet life in the dear little island of Monos. "I looked at the natural beauty and repose; at the human vigour and happiness; and I said to myself, and said it often afterwards in the West Indies: 'Why do not other people copy this wise Scot? Why should not many a young couple, who have education, refinement, resources in themselves, but are, happily or unhappily for them, unable to keep a brougham and go to London b.a.l.l.s, retreat to some such paradise as this (and there are hundreds like it to be found in the West Indies), leaving behind them false civilisation, and vain desires, and useless show; and there live in simplicity and content 'The Gentle Life'?"

_The Planter's Life._

Few who go to the tropics escape their fascination, and of those that are young, few return to colder climes. Some become overseers, others, more fortunate, own the estates they manage. It is inadvisable for the inexperienced to start on the enterprise of buying and planting an estate with less capital than two or three thousand pounds; but, once established, a cacao plantation may be looked upon as a permanent investment, which will continue to bear and give a good yield as long as it receives proper attention.

In the recently published _Letters of Anthony Farley_ the writer tells how Farley encounters in South America an old college friend of his, who in his early days was on the high road to a brilliant political career.

Here he is, a planter. He explains:

"My mother was Spanish; her brother owned this place. When he died it came to me."

"How did your uncle hold it through the various revolutions?"

"Nothing simpler. He became an American citizen. When trouble threatened he made a bee-line for the United States Consulate. I'm British, of course. Well, just when I had decided upon a political life, I found it necessary to come here to straighten things out. One month lengthened itself into a year. I grew fascinated. Here I felt a sense of immense usefulness. On the mountain side my coffee-trees flourished; down in the valley grew cacao."

"I grow mine on undulations."

"You needn't, you know, so long as you drain."

"Yes, but draining on the flat is the devil."

"Anyhow, I always liked animals--you haven't seen my pigs yet--and horses and mules need careful tending. A cable arrived one morning announcing an impending dissolution. I felt like an unwilling bridegroom called to marry an ugly bride. I invited my soul. Here, thought I to myself, are animals and foodstuffs--good, honest food at that. If I go back it is only to fill people's bellies with political east wind.

"To come to the point, I decided to grow coffee and cacao. I cabled infinite regrets. The decision once made, I was happy as a sandboy. _J'y suis, j'y reste_, said I to myself, said I. Nor have I ever cast one longing look behind."[8]

[8] Quoted from the _New Age_, where the _Letters of Anthony Farley_ first appeared.

This is fiction, but I think it is true that very few, if any, who become planters in the tropics ever return permanently to England. The hospitality of the planters is proverbial: there must be something good and free about the planter's life to produce men so genial and generous.

There is a picture that I often recall, and never without pleasure. A young planter and I had, with the help of more or less willing mules, climbed over the hills from one valley to the next. The valley we had left is noted for its beauty, but to me it had become familiar; the other valley I saw now for the first time. The sides were steep and covered with trees, and I could only see one dwelling in the valley. We reached this by a circuitous path through cacao trees. Approaching it as we did, the bungalow seemed completely cut off from the rest of the world. We were welcomed by the planter and his wife, and by those of the children who were not shy. I have never seen more chubby or jolly kiddies, and I know from the sweetness of the children that their mother must have given them unremitting attention. I wondered indeed if she ever left them for a moment. I knew, too, from the situation of the bungalow in the heart of the hills that visitors were not likely to be frequent. The planter's life is splendid for a man who likes open air and nature, but I had sometimes thought that their wives would not find the life so good. I was mistaken. When we came away, after riding some distance, through a gap in the cacao we saw across the valley a group of happy children. They saw us, and all of them, even the shy ones, waved us adieux.

[Ill.u.s.tration: CARTING CACAO TO RAILWAY STATION, CEYLON.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE CARENAGE, GRENADA.]

CHAPTER V

THE MANUFACTURE OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE

The Indians, from whom we borrow it, are not very nice in doing it; they roast the kernels in earthen pots, then free them from their skins, and afterwards crush and grind them between two stones, and so form cakes of it with their hands.

_Natural History of Chocolate_, R. Brookes, 1730.

_Early Methods in the Tropics._

As the cacao bean is grown in tropical countries, it is there that we must look for the first attempts at manufacturing from it a drink or a foodstuff. The primitive method of preparation was very simple, consisting in roasting the beans in a pot or on a shovel to develop their flavour, winnowing in the wind, and then rubbing the broken sh.e.l.led beans between stones until quite fine. The curious thing is that on grinding the cacao bean in the heat of a tropical day we do not produce a powder but a paste. This is because half the cacao bean consists of a fat which is liquid at 90 F., a temperature which is reached in the shade in tropical countries. This paste was then made into small rolls and put in a cool place to set. Thus was produced the primitive unsweetened drinking chocolate. This is the method, which Elizabethans, who ventured into the tangled forests of equatorial America, found in use; and this is the method they brought home to Europe. In the tropics these simple processes are followed to this day, but in Europe they have undergone many elaborations and refinements.

If the reader will look at the ill.u.s.tration ent.i.tled "Women grinding chocolate," he will see how the brittle roasted bean is reduced to a paste in primitive manufacture. A stone, shaped like a rolling-pin, is being pushed to and fro over a concave slab, on which the smashed beans have already been reduced to a paste of a doughy consistency.

[Ill.u.s.tration: EARLY FACTORY METHODS.

Fig. 1 is a workman roasting the cacao in an iron kettle over a furnace.

He has to stir the beans to keep them from burning. Fig. 2 is a person sifting and freeing the roasted kernels (which when broken into fragments are called "_nibs_") from their husks or sh.e.l.l. Fig. 3 shows a workman pounding the sh.e.l.l-free nibs in an iron mortar. Fig. 4 represents a workman grinding the nibs on a hard smooth stone with an iron roller. The grinding is performed over a chafing-dish of burning charcoal, as it is necessary, for ease of grinding, to keep the paste in a liquid condition.]

_Early European Manufacture._

The conversion of these small scale operations into the early factory process is well shown in the plate which I reproduce above from _Arts and Sciences_, published in 1768.

[Ill.u.s.tration: WOMEN GRINDING CHOCOLATE.

From Squier "Nicaragua"]

A certain atmosphere of dreamy intellectuality is a.s.sociated with coffee, so that the roasting of it is felt to be a romantic occupation.

The same poetic atmosphere surrounded the manufacture of drinking chocolate in the early days: the writers who revealed the secrets of its preparation were conscious that they were giving man a new aesthetic delight and the subject is treated lovingly and lingeringly. One, Pietro Metastasio, went so far as to write a "cantata" describing its manufacture. He describes the grinding as being done by a vigorous man, and truly, to grind by hand is a very laborious operation, which happily in more recent times has been performed by the use of power-driven mills.

Operations on a large scale followed the founding of Fry and Sons at Bristol in 1728, and of Lombart, "la plus ancienne chocolaterie de France," in Paris in 1760. In Germany the first chocolate factory was erected at Steinhunde in 1756, under the patronage of Prince Wilhelm, whilst in America the well-known firm of Walter Baker and Co. began in a small way in 1765. From the methods adopted in these factories have gradually developed the modern processes which I am about to describe.

MODERN PRACTICE.

As the early stages in the manufacture of cocoa and of chocolate are often identical, the processes which are common to both are first described, and then some individual consideration is given to each.

(_a_) _Arrival at the Factory._

The cacao is largely stored in warehouses, from which it is removed as required. It has remarkable keeping properties, and can be kept in a good store for several years without loss of quality. Samples of cacao beans in gla.s.s bottles have been found to be in perfect condition after thirty years. Some factories have stores in which stand thousands of bags of cacao drawn from many ports round the equator. There is something very pleasing about huge stacks of bags of cacao seen against the luminous white walls of a well-lighted store. The symmetry of their construction, and the continued repet.i.tion of the same form, are never better shown than when the men, climbing up the sides of a stack against which they look small, unbuild the mighty heap, the bags falling on to a continuous band which carries them jauntily out of the store.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PART OF A CACAO BEAN WAREHOUSE, SHOWING ENDLESS BAND CONVEYOR.

(Messrs. Cadbury Bros'. Works, Bournville).]

(_b_) _Sorting the Beans._

As all cacao is liable to contain a little free sh.e.l.l, dried pulp (often taken for twigs), threads of sacking and other foreign matter, it is very carefully sieved and sorted before pa.s.sing on to the roasting shop. In this process curios are occasionally separated, such as palm kernels, cowrie sh.e.l.ls, shea b.u.t.ter nuts, good luck seeds and "crab's eyes." The essential part of one type of machine (_see ill.u.s.tration_) which accomplishes this sorting is an inclined revolving cylinder of wire gauze along which the beans pa.s.s. The cylinder forms a continuous set of sieves of different sized mesh, one sieve allowing only sand to pa.s.s, another only very small beans or fragments of beans, and finally one holding back anything larger than single beans (_e.g._, "cobs," that is, a collection of two or more beans stuck together).

[Ill.u.s.tration: CACAO BEAN SORTING AND CLEANING MACHINE.

Reproduced by permission of Messrs. J. Baker & Sons, Ltd., Willesden.]

Another type of cleaning machine is ill.u.s.trated by the diagram on the opposite page.

This machine with its shaking sieves and blast of air makes a great clatter and fuss. It produces, however, what the manufacturers desire--a clean bean sorted to size.

[Ill.u.s.tration: DIAGRAM OF CACAO BEAN CLEANING MACHINE.