Highways and Byways in Sussex Part 6

"And then the woodc.o.c.k-shooting in November--I must take you back once more to my favourite Downs. With the first full moon during that month, especially if the wind be easterly or the weather calm, arrive flights of woodc.o.c.ks, which drop in the covers, and are dispersed among the bushy valleys, and even over the heathery summits of the hills. If it should happen to be a propitious year for beech-mast--the great attraction to pheasants on the Downs, as is the acorn in the weald--you may procure partridges, pheasants, hares, and rabbits in perhaps equal proportions, with half a dozen woodc.o.c.ks to crown the bag.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _East Lavant._]

"The extensive, undulating commons and heaths dotted with broken patches of Scotch firs and hollies on the ferruginous sand north of the Downs, afford--where the manorial rights are enforced--still greater variety of sport. On this wild ground, accompanied by my spaniels and an old retriever, and attended only by one man, to carry the game, I have enjoyed as good sport as mortal need desire on this side of the Tweed.

Here is a rough sketch of a morning's work.

[Sidenote: PARTRIDGE AND WOODc.o.c.k]

"Commencing operations by walking across a turnip-field, two or three coveys spring wildly from the farther end, and fly, as I expect, to the adjoining common, where they are marked down on a brow thickly clothed with furze. Marching towards them with spaniels at heel, up jumps a hare under my nose, then another, then a rabbit. I reload rapidly, and on reaching the gorse 'put in' the dogs. Whirr! there goes a partridge! The spaniels drop to the report of my gun, but the fluttering wings of the dying bird rouse two of his neighbours before I am ready, and away they fly, screaming loudly. The remainder are flushed in detail and I succeed in securing the greater part of them. Now for the next covey. They were marked down in that little hollow where the heather is longer than usual--a beautiful spot! But before I reach it, up they all spring in an unexpected quarter; that cunning old patriarch at their head had cleverly called them together to a naked part of the hill from whence he could observe my manoeuvres, and a random shot sent after him with hearty good will proved totally ineffective.

"Now the spaniels are worming through the thick sedges on either side of the brook which intersects the moor, and by their bustling anxiety it is easy to see that game is afoot. Keeping well in front of them, I am just in time for a satisfactory right and left at two c.o.c.k pheasants, which they had hunted down to the very edge of the water before they could persuade them to take wing. Now for that little alder coppice at the further end of the marshy swamp. Hark to that whipping sound so different from the rush of the rising pheasant or the drumming flight of the partridge! I cannot see the bird, but I know it is a woodc.o.c.k. This must be one of his favourite haunts, for I perceive the tracks of his feet and the perforations of his bill in every direction on the black mud around. Mark! again. A second is sprung, and as he flits between the naked alders a snap-shot stops his career. I now emerge at the farther end, just where the trees are thinner than elsewhere. A wisp of snipes utter their well-known cry and scud over the heath; one of these is secured. The rest fly towards a little pool of dark water lying at a considerable distance from the common, a well-known rendezvous for those birds. Cautiously approaching, down wind, I reach the margin. Up springs a snipe; but just as my finger is on the trigger, and when too late to alter my intention, a duck and mallard rise from among the rushes and wheel round my head. One barrel is fortunately left, and the drake comes tumbling to the ground. Three or four pheasants, another couple of woodc.o.c.ks, a few more snipes, a teal or two, and half a dozen rabbits picked up at various intervals, complete the day's sport, and I return home, better pleased with myself and my dogs than if we had compa.s.sed the destruction of all the hares in the county, or a.s.sisted at the immolation of a perfect hecatomb of pheasants."

[Sidenote: KINGLY BOTTOM]

Kingly Bottom is the most interesting spot to the west of Singleton. One may reach it either through Chilgrove, or by walking back towards Chichester as far as Binderton House, turning then to the right and walking due west for a couple of miles. Report says that the yews in Kingly Bottom, or Kingly Vale, mark a victory of Chichester men over a party of marauding Danes in 900, and that the dead were buried beneath the barrows on the hill. The story ought to be true. The vale is remarkable for its grove of yews, some of enormous girth, which extends along the bottom to the foot of the escarpment. The charge that might be brought against Suss.e.x, that it lacks sombre scenery and the elements of dark romance, that its character is too open and transparent, would be urged to no purpose in Kingly Vale, which, always grave and silent, is transformed at dusk into a sinister and fantastic forest, a home for witchcraft and unquiet spirits.

So it seems to me; but among the verses of Bernard Barton, the Quaker poet and the friend of Charles Lamb, I lately chanced upon a sonnet "written on hearing it remarked that the scenery [of Kingly Bottom] was too gloomy to be termed beautiful; and that it was also a.s.sociated with dolorous recollections of Druidical sacrifices." In this poem Barton takes a surprisingly novel line. "Nay, nay, it is not gloomy" he begins, and the end is thus:--

Nor fancy Druid rites have left a stain Upon its gentle beauties:--loiter there In a calm summer night, confess how fair Its moonlight charms, and thou wilt learn how vain And transitory Superst.i.tion's reign Over a spot which gladsome thoughts may share.

The ordinary person, not a poet, would, I fear, prefer to think of Kingly Bottom's Druidical past.

[Sidenote: THE MARDEN VIOLETS]

The last time I was in Kingly Bottom--it was in April--after leaving the barrows on the summit of the Bow Hill, above the Vale, I walked by devious ways to East Marden, between banks thick with the whitest and sweetest of sweet white violets. East Marden, however, has no inn and is therefore not the best friend of the traveller; but it has the most modest and least ecclesiastical-looking church in the world, and by seeking it out I learned two secrets: the finest place for white violets and the finest place to keep a horse. There is no riding country to excel this hill district between Singleton and the Hamps.h.i.+re border.

At the neighbouring village of Stoughton, whither I meant to walk (since an inn is there) was born, in 1783, the terrible George Brown--Brown of Brighton--the fast bowler, whose arm was as thick as an ordinary man's thigh. He had two long stops, one of whom padded his chest with straw. A long stop once held his coat before one of Brown's b.a.l.l.s, but the ball went through it and killed a dog on the other side. Brown could throw a 4-1/2 oz. ball 137 yards, and he was the father of seventeen children.

He died at Sompting in 1857.

[Sidenote: CHURCHYARD POETRY]

Of Racton, on the Hamps.h.i.+re border, and its a.s.sociation with Charles II., I have already spoken. Below, it is Westbourne, a small border village in whose churchyard are two pleasing epitaphs. Of Jane, wife of Thomas Curtis, who died in 1719, it is written:--

She was like a lily fresh and green, Soon cast down and no more seen.

and of John Cook:

Pope said an honest man Is the n.o.blest work of G.o.d.

If Pope's a.s.sertion be from error clear, One of G.o.d's n.o.blest works lies buried here.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Bosham._]

CHAPTER VI

CHICHESTER AND THE PLAIN

Bosham and history--An expensive pun--The Bosham bells--Chidham wheat--The Manhood peninsula--Selsey's adders--Selsey Bill--St.

Wilfrid and the Suss.e.x heathen--Pagham Harbour in its palmy days--Bognor--Felpham's great rider--Mr. Hayley and Mrs. Opie--An epitaph and a poem--A fairy's funeral--William Blake in Suss.e.x--The trial of a traitor.

On leaving Chichester West Street becomes the Portsmouth Road and pa.s.ses through Fishbourne, a pleasant but dusty village. A mile or so beyond, and a little to the south, is Bosham, on one of the several arms of Chichester Harbour, once of some importance but now chiefly mud. Bosham is the most interesting village in what may be called the Selsey peninsula. Yet how has its glory diminished! What is now a quiet abode of fishermen and the tarrying-place of yachtsmen and artists (there are few Royal Academy exhibitions without the spire of Bosham church) has been in its time a very factory of history. Vespasian's camp was hard by, and it is possible that certain Roman remains that have been found here were once part of his palace. Bosham claims to be the scene of Canute's encounter with the encroaching tide; which may be the case, although one has always thought of the king rebuking his flatterers rather by the margin of the ocean itself than inland at an estuary's edge. But beyond question Canute had a palace here, and his daughter was buried in the church.

[Sidenote: A COSTLY PUN]

Earl G.o.dwin, father of Harold, last of the Saxons, dwelt here also. "Da mihi basium"--give me a kiss--he is fabled to have said to Archbishop Aethelnoth, and on receiving it to have taken the salute as acquiescence in the request--"Da mihi Bosham": probably the earliest and also the most expensive recorded example in England of this particular form of humour.

It was from Bosham that Harold sailed on that visit to the Duke of Normandy which resulted in the battle of Hastings. In the Bayeux tapestry he may be seen riding to Bosham with his company, and also putting up prayers for the success of his mission. Of this success we shall see more when we come to Battle. Bosham furthermore claims Hubert of Bosham, the author of the _Book of Becket's Martyrdom_, who was with Saint Thomas of Canterbury when the a.s.sa.s.sins stabbed him to the death.

The church is of great age; it is even claimed that the tower is the original Saxon. The circ.u.mstance that in the representation of the edifice in the Bayeux tapestry there is no tower has been urged against this theory, although architectural realism in embroidery has never been very noticeable. The bells (it is told) were once carried off in a Danish raid; but they brought their captors no luck--rather the reverse, since they so weighed upon the s.h.i.+p that she sank. When the present bells ring, the ancient submerged peal is said to ring also in sympathy at the bottom of the Channel--a pretty habit, which would suggest that bell metal is happily and wisely superior to changes of religion, were it not explained by the unromantic principles of acoustics.

A heavy pole, known as the staff of Bevis of Southampton (and Arundel), was of old kept in Bosham church.

At high water Bosham is the fair abode of peace. When every straggling arm of the harbour is br.i.m.m.i.n.g full, when their still surfaces reflect the sky with a brighter light, and the fis.h.i.+ng boats ride erect, Bosham is serenely beautiful and restful. But at low tide she is a s.l.u.t: the withdrawing floods lay bare vast tracts of mud; the s.h.i.+ps heel over into att.i.tudes disreputably oblique; stagnation reigns.

[Sidenote: CHIDHAM WHEAT]

Chidham, by Bosham, is widely famous for its wheat. Chidham White, or Hedge, wheat was first produced a little more than a century ago by Mr.

Woods, a farmer. He noticed one afternoon (probably on a Sunday, when farmers are most noticing) an unfamiliar patch of wheat growing in a hedge. It contained thirty ears, in which were fourteen hundred corns.

Mr. Woods carefully saved it and sowed it. The crop was eight pounds and a half. These he sowed, and the crop was forty eight gallons. Thus it multiplied, until the time came to distribute it to other farmers at a high price. The cultivation of Chidham wheat by Mr. Woods at one side of the county, synchronised with the breeding of the best Southdown sheep by John Ellman at the other, as we shall see later.

South of Chichester stretches the Manhood peninsula, of which Selsey is the princ.i.p.al town: the part of Suss.e.x most neglected by the traveller.

In a county of hills the stranger is not attracted by a district that might almost have been hewn out of Holland. But the ornithologist knows its value, and in a world increasingly bustling and progressive there is a curious fascination in so remote and deliberate a region, over which, even in the finest weather and during the busiest harvest, a suggestion of desolation broods. Nothing, one feels, can ever introduce Success into this plain, and so thinking, one is at peace.

[Sidenote: THE MONOTONY OF MANHOOD]

A tramway between Chichester and Selsey has to some extent opened up the east side of the peninsula, but the west is still remote and will probably remain so. The country is, however, not interesting: a dead level of dusty road and gra.s.s or arable land, broken only by hedges, d.y.k.es, white cottages, and the many homesteads within their ramparts of wind-swept elms. Wheat and oats are the prevailing crops, still for the most part cut and bound by hand. Of the villages in the centre of the peninsula Sidlesham is the most considerable, with its handsome square church tower and its huge red tide-mill, now silent and weather-worn, standing mournfully at the head of the dry harbour of Pagham, whose waters once turned its wheels. On the west, on the sh.o.r.es of the Bosham estuary, or Chichester Harbour, are the sleepy amphibious villages of Appledram, famous once for its salt and its smugglers, Birdham, and Earnley. Let no one be tempted to take a direct line across the fields from Selsey to Earnley, for d.y.k.es and ca.n.a.ls must effectually stop him.

Indeed, cross country walking in this part of the country is practically an impossibility, except by continuous deviations and doublings. In attempting one day to reach Earnley from Selsey in this way (after giving up the beach in despair), I came upon several adders, and I once found one crossing a road absolutely in Selsey.

Selsey is a straggling white village, or town, over populous with visitors in summer, empty, save for its regular inhabitants, in winter.

The oldest and truest part of Selsey is a fis.h.i.+ng village on the east sh.o.r.e of the Bill, a little settlement of tarred tenements and lobster pots. Selsey church, now on the confines of the town, once stood a mile or more away; whither it was removed (the stones being numbered) and, like Temple Bar, again set up. The chancel was, however, not removed, but left desolate in the fields.

Selsey Bill is a tongue of land projecting into a shallow sea. A lighthouse being useless to warn strange mariners of the sandbanks of this district, a lights.h.i.+p known as the Owers flashes its rays far out in the channel. The sea has played curious pranks on the Selsey coast.

Beneath the beach and a large tract of the sea now lies what was once, four hundred years ago, a park of deer, which in its most prosperous day extended for miles. The shallow water covering it is still called the park by the fishermen, who drop their nets where the bucks and does of Selsey were wont to graze.

[Sidenote: SUSs.e.x REPELS ST. WILFRID]

But the sea has obliterated more than the pasturage of the deer; a mile distant from the present sh.o.r.e stood the first monastery erected in Suss.e.x after Wilfrid's conversion of the South Saxons to Christianity.

Although Saint Wilfrid eventually found a home in Suss.e.x and worked hard among its people, his first attempt to bring Christianity to the county was, according to his friend Edda's _Vita Wilfridi_, ill-starred. I quote the story:--

"A great gale blowing from the South-east, the swelling waves threw them on the unknown coast of the South Saxons. The sea too left the s.h.i.+p and men, and retreating from the land and leaving the sh.o.r.e uncovered, retired into the depths of the abyss.