McKinlay's Journal of Exploration in the Interior of Australia Part 9

Camp 21. Beautiful morning, wind from east-south-east. Started on bearing of 68 degrees for one mile to clear some water; then on bearing of 34 degrees for two and a quarter miles; bearing of 27 degrees for four and a quarter miles; bearing of 20 degrees for three and a half miles to top of a small stony rise, immediately beyond which, half a mile distant, is one ma.s.s of creeks occupying a mile in width, coming from south of east from hills in the distance. These creeks, no doubt, are one both above and below this, although now split into many branches. I have called it Davenport Creek after George Davenport, Esquire, of Melbourne, a gentleman to whom I am much indebted for his kindness. Then bearing of 41 degrees at half a mile came to first creek and continued on same course, crossing creeks for one mile; distance about twelve and a half miles.

This creek must drain an immense tract of country eastward. Northward appears one ma.s.s of creeks. It is certainly a magnificent country if there is permanent water.

Sat.u.r.day, March 29.

Camp 22. Beautiful morning, wind light from south-south-east. On bearing of 355 degrees for seventeen and a half miles, first part over rather swampy ground, chiefly over firm ground; good travelling country and a little stony (sandstone). On it found a new fruit on a shrub about five feet high, not unlike the bean tree; the fruit tree of Cooper's Creek also is here and it is a more handsome tree than between this and Cooper's Creek; the bean tree is also here. Within the last two miles the ground has been swampy and full of watercourses, with plenty of water caused by the emptying of a large creek from the east, coming past south-west end of a large range east and running north of this position; which creek I have named Brown's Creek after Charles Brown, Esquire, of Great Bourke Street West, Melbourne, whose upright way of conducting business I very much admire and who, from his straightforward manner, gains the esteem of everyone that has anything to do with him.

Sunday, March 30.

Camp Number 23. Bearing of 7 degrees one mile, bearing of 355 degrees eight and a half miles to top of a sandhill, well-gra.s.sed; pa.s.sing on the left, half a mile back, a couple of same kind and a little higher. From the one I am on an extensive view of the surrounding country is had. On the west side of the creek close is a tier of ranges running parallel with it; nearest part not above four miles from this; hills on the right at various distances discernible all along the course today; the most prominent one seemingly well-wooded and terminating northward in a bluff and small table-top. Bluff bearing 117 1/2 degrees, I have called the Hamilton Range after George Hamilton, Esquire, Inspector of Police, Adelaide. Two table-topped hills are to the east and north of the bluff; southern one bears south end 114 degrees, north end 113 1/2 degrees; south end of north table-top 113 1/4 degrees; north-east end 112 degrees.

On a bearing of 60 degrees distant is a ma.s.s of apparently heavy ranges running west of north--as do most of the ranges that at all approach the creek. The country here has been terribly torn by the flood and torrents of rain that must have fallen some short time back; in some places it has the appearance of being literally ploughed in stripes, but generally firm; any quant.i.ty of water on right of course. To the east, between the hills, heavy creeks come out west and north in all directions, overflowing the whole country; anyone caught in the locality on such occasions as the late visit of the flood here would never more be heard of. On bearing of 331 degrees for two and a half miles; bearing of 340 degrees for four and three-quarter miles--in all about sixteen and three-quarter miles; latter part much torn by water and in consequence less feed than usual. Camped on one of the main channels of the main creek about eighty to one hundred yards wide, cut into a number of channels; abundance of water and feed. From this camp peculiar cliffy red table-topped hill bears 77 degrees; highest point of range 33 1/2 degrees; farthest part visible 7 degrees; is timbered on top; running north-west; south end distant about five to seven miles.

Monday, March 31.

Bearing 15 degrees one and one-eighth miles; bearing of 36 1/2 degrees four miles to ranges, part of table-top hill about three and a half miles off where the creek goes through the gorge between the table-tops, when it is fully half and nearly three-quarters of a mile wide, and nearly one sheet of water and bogs; it divides towards the other side through larger pa.s.sage on the east and two rocky hills in the angle, nearly north and south of each other and about 100 yards apart; another rocky cone hill is south again of them. Round rocky summit and bears 240 degrees; crossed on bearing of 10 degrees over table-top limestone and sandstone hill to flat on the other side at four miles; at two miles further on same course camped at first good water we met. This range that I have pa.s.sed over I have called Hamilton's Table-tops after G. Hamilton, Esquire, Inspector of Police; the gorge and island I have called Hunter; the table-tops on opposite side I have called Goyder's after the Surveyor-General of South Australia; the islands immediately south of Hunter's Island and close alongside I have called Mary's Island: and the cone southward of that I have called Moses Island Cone after a young relative of mine in Scotland.

Tuesday, April 1.

Beautiful morning; wind east and fresh. Travelled zigzag through creeks from the eastward for about twenty miles and camped on large one from south of east that we could not find a crossing at; our distance in a direct line would not be much more than half that, and the exact course not known till I get on one of the hills; to east and north no view, being perfectly shut out with timber. The country near the creek is a perfect bog, and even a man has great difficulty in getting out of some places that he is induced to try, thinking it crossable. After getting to camp went about examining the creek for a crossing, and think I have found one that perhaps may do, but even after crossing this one the country is like a net, intersected as it is with creeks, magnificent pasture on the flats; a native fis.h.i.+ng weir is a little above this.

Across the creek and you can see the fish snapping at the flies in the holes--all the creeks indeed that I have crossed from the east have both fish and mussels in them, but here the creeks are very formidable. Small crown top of the hill, another very fine one some little distance south of that; all those are on the western side of a large range, close by, running apparently north-east and south-west. I sincerely wish I was safe on the western side of these main creeks as I am thus driven contrary to my wish much east.

Wednesday, April 2.

Started to cross the creek about three-quarters of a mile to the eastward; but just before starting, whilst the horses were coming, two of them got bogged and we had some difficulty in extricating them, however we made a start; got to the crossing place--got two of the camels and two of the horses bogged and had considerable difficulty in getting all over safe, however did so with the exception of getting some of the things wet, so it was late when we crossed. I at once camped to dry them and got things put to rights for a start in the morning. Started off to get a view of the country from a remarkable crown-topped conical hill about six miles off, and had a most extensive view. I find that we have for the present pa.s.sed the worst of the creeks, and that now there is in view only one of much magnitude and it bears off eastward, pa.s.sing on the south-east side of an isolated hill or double hill; they are the only hills seen from this elevated spot from a bearing of 358 degrees round to 44 degrees southward and westward; from the forementioned of these bearings and ma.s.ses of hills jumbled together, and to south and east of the latter bearing is another ma.s.s of hills; at the bearing itself the hill terminates in small cones immediately east of my position; a little to the north and a little to the south is one ma.s.s of table-topped hills, some apparently strongly timbered on top, with a perfect wall from ten to thirty feet perpendicular round summit of all, and some are detached.

Hunter's Island Gap, or rather the bluff on its northern side, bearing 26 degrees from Hunter's Gorge to north and west, is round to 358 degrees in the far distance, is a ma.s.s of table-topped ranges with, apparently, three gaps in them.

Thursday, April 3.

On bearing of 110 degrees along the creek for one and a quarter miles, on bearing of 65 1/2 degrees for three and a half miles, on bearing of 1 degree for three and a half miles over several boggy creeks; then after several fruitless exertions through bogs and creeks, with a large deep strong running stream and through quagmire, was obliged to retrace my steps and get outside of the creeks, having failed completely in getting over them; they would swallow horses and everything we had got. Went on bearing of 99 degrees for three and a half miles and camped on a magnificent lagoon about one mile long and about 200 yards wide, a perfect flower garden.

Friday, April 4.

Camp, Jeannie Lagoon; went and had a view from hills east; saw there Kangaroo ranges far to the east, tier after tier, country timbered, etc.

Sat.u.r.day, April 5.

Camp 28. At daybreak sky wild-looking to eastward; wind from south; strong. Never in all my experience found the flies so thorough a pest as they have been for the last week or ten days. We get on without our bread quite as well as I expected; the vegetables we use by boiling are famous things, both as a subst.i.tute for bread and keep the party in good health.

The natives on the main creek lower down south call it cullie; it is a sort of spinach and does not grow more than a foot high but spreads perhaps twice that much. Started over on bearing of 45 degrees; at three three-eighth miles came to and crossed a broad swamp from the eastern hills; a little further back on the right of my course appeared to be another lagoon; at five-eighths of a mile commenced crossing low sandhills; splendid feed all the way. Changed the course, the ground ahead having too many high-looking sandhills. Saw a couple of natives in the distance crossing the swamp; I crossed some considerable distance west of them; they evidently did not see us. Cannot keep straight; there is a large deep creek here immediately on my left, about fifty yards wide; bearing of 60 degrees for one and a quarter miles; then bearing of 24 degrees, crossing the creek (small one); making for north-west end of another sandhill two and a quarter miles further; then bearing of 15 degrees, pa.s.sing on the left some fine myall and sandhill country, splendidly gra.s.sed and strongly wooded with myall and other trees of various kinds in splendid foliage; two and a quarter miles bearing of 33 degrees over sandy undulation on the right and innumerable creeks on the left for one and one-eighth miles; in all sixteen and a quarter miles and camped on some mulga near some of the branches of the creek.

Sunday, April 6.

Camp 29. Beautiful cold morning; what little wind there is is from the south-west. Started away on bearing of 40 degrees for thirteen and a half miles; first part over stony myall undulations (open) the latter part free from stones and much less wooded except in the creeks that constantly come in from the ranges from the eastward. As I am now pa.s.sing a couple of circular table-topped hills pretty close on the right I will change my course for a thicket of myall and camp that I may be enabled to ride to the height and have a view of the general course of the creek, as what I am on is too flat to get a view at all. Changed course and camped; distance travelled fourteen and five-eighth miles; day beautifully cool.

A tier of ranges continues on my right all along, varying from five to eight miles distant, timbered with mulga, same as one I went on the day I camped at Jeannie Lagoon; a ma.s.s of detached pyramids, cut and conical coronet-topped hills are between my course and the main range and I have the creek to the right. Not far off pa.s.sed abundance of water on course over top of Euro Hill; creek bears suddenly off westward--a likely way to get over the range and meet it again by a gap in range bearing 349 degrees. It appears to pa.s.s through and receive large tributaries from the west and northward, between large leading ranges on the west and through range with gap on the east side, that I talk of pa.s.sing through to meet it again on bearing 318 degrees, or of bearing 340 degrees--nearer considerably than the former. This hill is a conical coronet-topped hill of burned sandstone mixed with some quartz and is four miles from camp, on a bearing of 157 1/2 degrees. Belts of mulga between camp and this; the country to north-east and round by east to south for some miles is not all good; a little spinifex and the ground perfectly strewed with bronzed stones of various sizes; no ranges visible from north round to north-east, but plains and mulga scrub; one larger hill similar, but coated with spinifex and bush of various sizes, is close by bearing 300 degrees; another about the same size as this, thickly coated with spinifex, and a couple of bushes about 300 yards off bears 225 degrees. Between me and main range to the east are numerous red pyramid hills of various sizes, and southward a number of detached table-topped hills, peaks, and mounds, all more or less timbered. Just as I was getting up this hill a fine euro hopped off down the side some distance off, and when I got on the top another sprang up and as I had my pistol with me I fired and luckily killed him, so I call the hill Euro Hill. After I had finished on the hill I disembowelled the euro and carried it to the camp to have it used and help the meat to last; I hope we may get plenty more.

Monday, April 7.

Camp 30. Exceedingly cold during the night but a beautiful morning.

Started on bearing 5 1/2 degrees for six and three-quarter miles; first part of it over open flats with mulga creeks and watercourses, many with water; next over burnt stony undulation with mulga watercourses; at five miles came in amongst a quant.i.ty of detached hills of lime and sandstone; the ground strewed with bronzed burnt small stones and takes the print of an animal's foot readily, having a light soil under. At the end of this distance, six and three-quarter miles, two creeks again full in view, one apparently on bearing 9 degrees, pa.s.sing above and below a small table-topped hill, the other on bearing of 40 degrees, which I suppose I must follow till I can cross. For five miles pa.s.sing stony slopes towards the creek and a vast abundance of vine with large yellow blossoms, the fruit being contained in a leafy pod; that fruit when ripe contains three or four black seeds as large as a good-sized pea. I must try them cooked as I find the emu tracks very abundant where the vine is most plentiful.

I can from this point see the creek distinctly break off from the branch on bearing of 354 degrees, but I must keep on the branch still; bearing now 35 1/2 degrees. The tops of the low hills are of a whitish colour, and an immense quant.i.ty of gypsum is scattered over them as well as over the slopes as I came along, and the tops and slopes of the hill have mallee with other trees and shrubs; course 35 1/2 degrees for three three-eighth miles, first part burnt undulation of thin brown slate gypsum cliffs for a short distance, without a shrub or bush on them; precipitous slopes, tops alone having bushes or trees; latter part over undulation more or less stony to creek where it turns suddenly to northward again; bearing of 338 degrees over flooded well-gra.s.sed country for two miles on to the main creek; a hill on opposite side within twenty-three yards of creek bank. This is a magnificent stream here. It is at least 250 yards wide and from forty to fifty feet down the banks to the water, lined with n.o.ble gums, box, bean, and other trees; how deep it is difficult to say. Lots of ducks of various kinds, cormorants, magpies, corellas, pigeons of various kinds, with the usual accompaniment of crows and hawks. Small hill visible in the distance to south of east; very extensive plain in that direction also, as well as east and north of east, with abundance of excellent pasture and timbered low ridges, stony, but well gra.s.sed with limestone and the everlasting plum-pudding stone with sandstone. Current in creek I should say not more than half a mile per hour.

Tuesday, April 8.

Camp 31. Cool during the night with a heavy dew, beautiful morning, not a breath of wind: keeping a short distance from the creek to cross a boggy tributary from the east, for two and three-quarter miles, then through timbered stony rising ground, plenty of feed; the bronzed middle-sized pigeon of Cooper's Creek seen here; bearing of 40 degrees for two and a quarter miles along limestone and plum-pudding slopes; part of creek on left on bearing of 30 degrees for three and a quarter miles, timber for building purposes to be had here in sufficient quant.i.ties; bearing of 45 degrees for three-quarters of a mile; bearing 50 degrees for one mile; bearing of 40 degrees three-quarters of a mile over myall open country, some of it very stony where the flood has swept over it; now on the right are some fine plains backed in by low myall ridges; bearing of 42 degrees for four and three-quarter miles, the creek on the left, tributaries seem to come in and join on opposite side, cross a creek from east in its swamp, plenty of water (Kell's Creek); I have come to a stony crossing-place and recross over to north-west side; the female camel bogged but we soon got her put to rights; for the last three miles the ground we travelled over is nearly one ma.s.s of stones, limestone and agate or flint, and very bad travelling; the creek runs strong--I have called it Mueller's Creek after F. Mueller of Melbourne--fifteen and a half miles. After getting to camp got a horse and went out north of west to a ridge some short distance off and saw to the westward a large tributary that I think will suit my course; at little over quarter of a mile a very large creek comes in from north of north-east and flows southward, it has ceased running and has a broad stony bottom but has splendid reaches of water; this I have called the Robinson after J.

Robinson, Esquire, of Hume River. Considerably to east is a well-defined range in the distance, running north and south with three detached mounds of hills and I have called it Mount Mueller after F. Mueller, Esquire.

Wednesday, April 9.

Camp 32. Heavy dew, beautiful still morning, a few fleecy clouds.

Started, bearing of 285 degrees for one and a quarter miles, at three-eighths of a mile crossed the Robinson, at three-eighths of a mile further crossed a nice creek with large reaches, the Mansergh; at three-eighths of a mile further changed our mode of travel to the bearing of 330 degrees for two and a quarter miles; then bearing 354 1/2 degrees, spinifex hill or range close on the right, good open country travelled over; creek on the left about two miles off, alluvial deposit on plain, over which we travelled for six and three-quarter miles then entered a mulga range (low) bronzed stone on the ascent but plenty of feed and numerous traces of kangaroo. Saw lots of emu on the plains; still on bearing of 354 1/2 degrees to creek, pa.s.sing on the right a vast quant.i.ty of spinifex and ranges of sandstone right on the banks of creek for three and a quarter miles, crossed it on a bearing of 284 degrees three-quarters of a mile, plenty of water, the creek I have called the Fletcher after G.B. Fletcher, Esquire, Tapio, Darling River, New South Wales; then bearing 295 degrees for Coronet-Topped Hill, centre of next creek, at three miles made the creek, went one quarter of a mile into it and camped; the last three miles has been a pipeclay, slaty, spinifex, miserable country with detached conical, white, clay-slaty hills, top of the range all spinifex, although timbered with a white-barrelled gum of no great dimensions; distance travelled today seventeen and a half miles.

Thursday, April 10.

Camp 33. Fine morning, wind moderate, south, on bearing of 300 degrees up the clear ground in the apparent centre of this immense creek; pa.s.sed north end of stony (sand) spinifex-topped and pipeclay, north end at one and one-eighth of a mile; bearing of 315 degrees high bluff, spinifex-topped, hills all along at the right of creek, except the valley of the creek, this is the most miserable country we have been in for some time, if you offer to ascend the ridges they are nothing but a ma.s.s of very rough stones, spinifex, and mulga, myall, and white-stemmed gumtrees, very difficult to travel over, three miles on 315 degrees; obliged to change course, great part of the heavy creek, on my left, crossing my course, and bearing up more to eastward another creek bears off to considerably west of north, now on bearing of 285 degrees crossing the different branches of this immense creek which I have called the Cadell, after F. Cadell, Esquire, the enterprising and indefatigable navigator of the Murray and Darling, etc. etc., not that he will ever be able to steam up this length; 285 degrees for one and a quarter miles of other creeks that appear to go off on a bearing, at present, of 200 degrees, which I follow on its north-east side, or rather up through it, as it is divided into innumerable branches with abundance of water; camped at six and three-quarter miles on this course in the centre of the creek; the hills recede a good deal from the creek and are not so rough-looking or abrupt as they were in the morning and yesterday; the creek I have called Middleton, after Mr. Middleton, one of our party, who at all times has rendered me most material services and who, had I lost him during his late severe illness I should scarcely be able to get along without, he is always ready at the post when there is anything particular to do.

Friday, April 11.

Camp 34. Fine morning; wind moderate south. This creek receives a tributary from the southward of west about a quarter mile lower down than this. I shall pa.s.s through this creek to north-east side, that being the best and most open travelling, the south-west side having myall timber from the creek to the ranges as far as visible. If the country at all suits and, as my food cannot possibly carry me back to Adelaide, I shall shape my course for the southern part of the Gulf of Carpentaria about the Albert River, thence to Port Denison, then to wait instructions from South Australia. On bearing of 45 degrees; half a mile across the different branches of the immense creek, then on bearing of 314 degrees along splendid plains, pa.s.sing at nine and a half miles a detached small tier of ranges running on to and ending at the creek; from the top of the nearest one the creek appears to bear through ranges 294 1/2 degrees; ranges on this side appear only detached and far distant from the creek, leaving magnificent plains intervening. A small red conical hill is close to the creek about a mile from this bearing 306 1/2 degrees. I now recross the creek on bearing of 294 1/2 degrees as it is more suitable for my purpose, the creek in the distance at its western bend bearing 305 degrees about nine miles distant, at which place it receives a tributary from the ranges to the eastward on the course of 294 1/2 degrees for eight and a half miles. Camping on south-western side of creek, pa.s.sing over excellent country. Travelled today eighteen and a half miles. The creek that comes in on the opposite side I have called Saville's Creek.

From this camp a coronet-shaped hill, at or near the termination of a tier of ranges approaching the creek within five miles, bears 30 degrees, a bluff termination of ranges from the creek on south-west side and on south-west of our tomorrow course bears 279 1/2 degrees, about eight to ten miles.

Sat.u.r.day, April 12.

Camp 35. Fine morning. I have had to send back to last camp for a small saw, carelessly left behind by the cook. On bearing of 294 1/2 degrees on south-west side of creek direct, seven and a half miles through, the creek came direct in my course and sheered round again north before that distance; then bearing of 313 degrees for five and three-quarter miles, and camped, making the stage short to await the messenger for the saw.

Wind south. Immense open downs or plains, well gra.s.sed with similar hills to what we have pa.s.sed, wanting the spinifex. Messenger arrived with saw.

Sunday, April 13.

Camp 36. Evenings, nights, and mornings are beautifully cool; the days are quite hot enough. It is astonis.h.i.+ng to see how fast the waters have dried up. I hope that near the tops of the creeks the water will not fail us, for up to this we have had lately much more than we want. Bearing of 336 degrees, on south-west side of creek still. Ranges now on the left and at the distance of from thirteen to fourteen miles, appear to come right on to the creek on both sides at two and a half miles; on bearing of 336 degrees. Tributary from south-west side; at five miles another tributary on same side; at six and three-quarter miles another. At fourteen miles the hills close, those on the north-east side nearer than the south-west side ones. At fourteen and a half miles tributary joins on opposite side from the hill close by. At fifteen and three-quarter miles hill (burned sandstone) comes on to the creek; the timber in the creek nearly all white gum, the North of Adelaide native orange, and a new fruit, something similar, that when ripe splits open down the sides whilst still green, and grows on a low p.r.i.c.kly shrub, leaf not unlike the orange but longer and when near other trees or shrubs entwines itself round them and grows to a good height. The actual distance today direct is about fifteen miles, as the creek came in my course and receded again before we came to camp--camped across the creek. Kirby by some unfortunate mistake on his part did not arrive here tonight. Will send after him first thing in the morning; burnt a blue light and made a low fire on the top of the hill for him but without effect.

Monday, April 14.

No word of Kirby; sent after him, found him on the tracks some miles away, and did not get to camp till near noon. He says he got entangled in the creeks and could not make the tracks out. Lots of kangaroo and emu here but shy; cloudy and hot. Looks as if we were to have a shower; I wish we may. Camp here today.

Tuesday, April 15.

Camp 37. Late in starting, some horses being absent; nice cool breeze from north-north-east--bearing of 2 1/2 degrees; creek on the left at three-quarters of a mile, tributaries join on each side; at two and a half miles remarkable peaky and table-topped hills on right; hills close on both sides. At four and a half miles changed course to 8 degrees; at one and a half miles heavy tributary came in from east-south-east, and is I think the princ.i.p.al channel; completely ran the creek out north and then followed and ran out the princ.i.p.al one. Retreated twice and compelled to camp at a water in the flat a quarter of a mile north of where I struck the creek. Distance today six and a half miles; although I suppose I travelled treble that distance. After camping got a horse and went out over the ranges in a west and north direction and saw what I suppose will be a course to suit me tomorrow; otherwise it was my intention to have taken one man and a packhorse, and pus.h.i.+ng over the range northward to see if we are near the north watershed, or to have found a practicable route. Ranges are covered with spinifex and rough stones. Hodgkinson shot a euro which will help us on and save a sheep.

Wednesday, April 16.

Camp 38. Started on a general bearing of 292 degrees over the ranges and at seven miles direct got onto a large myall flat; at nine miles pa.s.sing over myall flat. Red table-topped range close on right; pa.s.sed through the ma.s.s of them and the last of the range; and changed bearing to 325 degrees for three and a half miles, making for a gum creek that appeared to come from the ranges from north and east. Found no water on the road nor in the creek but fortunately some in a side creek at which place I camped. Saw a native signalising to westward, a considerable distance.

Thursday, April 17.

Camp 39. Beautiful morning. Started on bearing of 305 degrees across an extensive myall, gum, and box flat, with innumerable tributaries into it in all directions. General drain up to the south; water in many watercourses as we cross the flat, and must be an immense creek a little lower down, where they all unite. Keep the course for eleven miles, crossing a fine open creek running northward, which I think is the same that we crossed this morning flowing south; then over spinifex ridges on bearing of 300 degrees onto a fine open flat. Heavy ranges west. Apparent fall of water northward; about four miles south of this and immediately over the open undulation at the distance the flow takes place south; on this last course two and a quarter miles; on bearing of 295 degrees for two miles, 293 degrees for two and a quarter miles over splendid country and camped at first creek we met with plenty of water. Unfortunately Kirby with the sheep has got astray; and Hodgkinson, who was sent after him in the morning to swerve him from the course he was then on and bear up north for ours, came up to me in the midst of a spinifex range, whilst leading on the party, with the stupid information that he could not follow his tracks; and on being rated for so doing and sent back arrived at 10 p.m., and never got on his tracks again but says he went back to the camp we left in the morning--for what purpose he only knows; in consequence the unfortunate man did not arrive at camp. I will send after him first thing in the morning. After getting into camp I rode out south towards the watershed but found it further off than I antic.i.p.ated from this camp. It must be from ten to fifteen miles and most excellent country. The main range west from what I could see of it is very stony; few trees and a great abundance of kangaroo and other gra.s.ses. Emu and kangaroo in abundance. Range runs to east of north a little and to south of west a little and is formidable. Distance travelled seventeen and a half miles.

Friday, April 18.

Camp 40. First thing in the morning got the horses and started Middleton and Palmer to endeavour to trace the unfortunate man Kirby who has not made his appearance. He must have had a bitter cold night of it; this morning south wind was as cold or colder than I have felt it for twelve months--we were glad to get to the fire besides fortifying ourselves with warmer clothing than usual. I with Poole started to cut his tracks if he came out through the range on his course through open country south of this, but were unsuccessful in finding any trace of him. Middleton and Palmer got on his tracks and followed them to about dark when within a very short distance of our tracks here, and more than half the distance to this camp, and thought it not improbable, from the course he was then pursuing, that he had got to our camp and came home but the unfortunate had not; had he been followed the day before by Hodgkinson with the same perseverance all would have been well and much anxiety spared to all. If the poor man has kept to the ranges I'm afraid there is little hopes of him--it will be a sad end for the poor fellow--a better man for his occupation could not be found. Just fancy an unfortunate man lost between two and three hundred miles from the coast in a perfect wild with twenty-three sheep (and I question if he has any matches) left to sink or swim beyond reach of any Christian soul. If he is recovered he may thank G.o.d. Will still keep up the search for some days to come in hopes of recovering him. Camp bearing 208 1/2 degrees about four and a half miles; furthest north point visible of McKinlay's Range 304 degrees, from thirty to forty miles. No range visible between that and 18 1/2 degrees. Nothing but heavily timbered creeks, innumerable tributaries from both sides and south end. Exact course of main creek not positively discernible, but for the first twenty miles from camp it bears much east, from Observation Hill it appears as far east as 3 degrees--termination of McKinlay's Range as visible from camp on bearing 341 degrees. Furthest southern point of McKinlay's Range as visible from Observation Hill 214 degrees. Some miles beyond the watershed south, hill where watershed takes place about six miles from camp bears from the Hill Observation 216 degrees from camp.

Sat.u.r.day, April 19.