Toy-Making at Home Part 3

For this you want some wire hoops on which to stand the nuts. To make these, take a piece of stiff wire about 5 in. long and bend one end in the shape of a small circle, about 1/2 in. across. Now bend this loop so that it is at right angles to the wire; then when the wire is upright the circle will be horizontal (Fig. 35). Sharpen the other end with a file. Make three or four like this, and then some more an inch shorter, and a third lot two inches shorter. These must then be driven into the other end of the catapult board so that they are not too close together; otherwise the game is too easy.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 35.]

Now all you need is a cardboard shelter. This can be oblong at the ends and triangular at the sides; but the shape is quite immaterial so long as the "shy" is properly shut in. Fig. 36 shows a suitable arrangement.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 36.]

Another tip-top game, for the making of which you can use broken clothes pegs, is the "_ring-board_" or "_indoor quoits_." This consists simply of a board with a number of pegs projecting from it. The object of the game is to throw a number of rings in such a fas.h.i.+on that they will lodge on the pegs, scoring points according to the numbers marked at each peg. The board may be hung on the wall, or else placed flat on the floor. In the former case, the pegs must have a slightly upward slant, so that the rings will not tumble off easily; in the latter the rings must be upright.

To make either game, obtain a piece of wood about 18 in. square. You will probably need to join up boards for this. If you get three pieces of 6-in. board, each 18 in. long, and secure these side by side by means of a couple of battens, nailed right across the back, the result will be a square of the right size (Fig. 37).

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 37.]

Now mark out the board as in Fig. 38. At the points where the dotted lines cross you will fix the projecting pegs.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 38.]

For these last take some broken pegs, and saw them off cleanly, just above the fork. If the board is to be a ground board, cut them quite level; if an upright board, then slightly slanting (Fig. 39). These must be secured in place by long thin screws driven in from the back--the correct holes having been bored in the base board. Now give each peg a number--a.s.signing the higher numbers to the more difficult pegs--and paint the number on the back board close to the peg.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 39.]

For rings various things can be used. Old bra.s.s curtain rings are suitable in some respects, especially for the ground game, but they are very noisy. Thick india-rubber rings are frequently used, and can be purchased quite cheaply at any "games" shop. Rings made of stout cord, or thin rope, are frequently played with, especially on board s.h.i.+p, where the ground game is very popular. Should there be any difficulty in obtaining or making any of these, then it is a very simple matter to cut rings from a sheet of thick cardboard.

The great objection to the upright game is the nuisance of the falling rings. This may be avoided partly by constructing a cardboard "catcher"

to fit underneath. This is simply a cardboard triangle, or rather two right-angled triangles joined together by tape so as to bend easily and be strong: these are nailed to the two under edges of the board (Fig.

40).

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 40.]

Another splendid shooting toy is the _Dart Box_. For this you need a wooden box of some sort. Size and shape do not matter very much, but a box with ends roughly square would do best: one 15 in. long, 6 in. wide, and 6 in. deep would be admirable for the purpose.

On the inside of one end paint a target, and number each division, a.s.signing higher numbers to the spots more difficult to hit (Fig. 41).

Now in the centre of the opposite end bore a circular hole with a diameter of about 3/8 in.; and across this, on the outside of the box, fasten a strong piece of ribbon elastic--nailing down each end with a piece of wood (Fig. 42). For the dart, take a butcher's wooden skewer, and into the pointed end introduce a piece of a stout needle.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 41.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 42.]

When shooting with this toy, hold the box firmly, open the lid, fit the dart in the hole from the inside, and draw back the elastic. When you have taken careful aim, close down the lid and let go.

This is a capital toy, and provides endless amus.e.m.e.nt. Also it is a very desirable one as far as shooting is concerned, for the closing down of the lid ensures perfect safety.

While talking of making things from clothes pegs, we may as well give particulars of one or two things which will appeal rather more to our girl readers.

_A Key Rack_ such as that shown in Fig. 43 is just such an article as a girl would take a delight in making, because of its simplicity and its prettiness.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 43.]

The only materials required are two pegs, some hooks, and a length of ribbon. Take the two pegs--which should be nicely turned ones--and wedge the p.r.o.ngs one within the other so that the pegs remain fixed at right angles. In doing this, push the pegs in tightly, but take care not to split the pegs in so doing. Using a bradawl, make a hole through the junction of the p.r.o.ngs, and screw in a hook: the common sort as used on dressers, &c., will do quite well. Now bore holes midway between the junction and the k.n.o.bs, and screw in two more hooks.

If now a coat of enamel be given to the pegs--say green in colour--and if ribbons (pale blue) be tastily arranged as shown in the sketch, then a very pretty and useful little article will result.

Yet another splendid little article from pegs is a

_Picture Postcard Stand_, for which the only necessities will be two pegs and a piece of wood for a base (Fig. 44).

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 44.]

This base should be about 4-1/2 in. long and about 2-1/2 in. wide. It can be cut from wood of any thickness, but a piece about 3/8 in. thick is the most suitable. Find the centre of each end edge of the base, and draw a line right across the wood. If now you measure in one inch from each end you will get the two spots to which to affix the pegs.

These last must first of all have one p.r.o.ng removed, or rather enough of a p.r.o.ng to leave a quarter-inch stump projecting. This stump should be rounded with a sharp knife, and then the whole peg should be finished off with gla.s.s-paper. These pegs must then be fixed k.n.o.b downwards on to the base. Fig. 39 on page 34 shows a suitable method for this.

If you are at all skilful with your tools you will be able to cut a nice moulding round the edge of the base, and so improve the artistic effect of your model.

Two thin coats of varnish, or of good enamel, will complete this attractive little article.

One little wooden toy, quite interesting in itself, and very useful when playing with "soldiers," is

_The Windla.s.s._--Some odd pieces of lath or cigar-box wood, a cotton reel, a length of string, some stout wire, and some glue and pins, provide all the necessaries. The cotton reel should be the largest obtainable.

Fig. 45 shows the completed work. First of all, make a square base for the windla.s.s. If the reel is 3 in. long, cut off four lengths of lath (or four inch-strips of cigar-wood box) each 4 in. long, and glue these into a hollow square, two under and two over. Now cut off two more lengths, 3 in. long, for the upright supports--making the top ends pointed to hold the slanting covers.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 45.]

Before these side-pieces are glued and pinned into position, it will be necessary to insert the reel. Get a piece of skewer, or lead pencil, 4 in. long, and glue it into the hole in the reel. At one end of the axle so formed will be placed the handle. This can be made in several ways, either with wood or wire, or a mixture of the two (Figs. 46, 47, 48 show some varieties, which may also be useful in making other toys). Holes just large enough to allow the axle to turn freely must then be cut in the side supports.

The two slanting covers should be about 4 in. long, so as to allow a trifle to project at each end, and should be from 3/4 in. to 1 in. wide.

The two edges which meet to form the apex of the cover should be bevelled off so as to form a clean join.

In making this model it would perhaps be as well to use carpenter's glue in place of the prepared stuff.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 46.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 47.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 48.]

From the material supplied by one or two empty cigar boxes, many interesting things can be made, especially articles for use with dolls--cradles, carts, furniture, &c. If these articles are of no use to you, they come in very handy for presents to little sisters and friends, especially when well made and carefully finished.

_A Doll's Cradle_ is perhaps one of the simplest to commence with. To a box from which the lid has been removed, it is only necessary to add two rockers. These can be cut out from the lid by means of a fret saw, and then smoothed down with gla.s.s-paper. Fig. 49 shows the best shape for the rockers, which should be glued on about an inch from each end of the box (Fig. 50). Great care should be taken that the two rockers are as nearly alike as possible, otherwise the cradle will not swing to and fro freely.