Handbook of Embroidery Part 5

Many materials can only be embroidered in a frame, and most work is best so done. A greater variety of st.i.tches is possible, and on the stretched flat surface the worker can see the whole picture at once, and judge of the effect of the colours and shading as she carries out the design. It is the difference between drawing on stretched or crumpled paper.

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CHAPTER V.

St.i.tCHES USED IN FRAME EMBROIDERY.

_Feather St.i.tch._--In framework, as in handwork, we restore the ancient name of _Feather work_ or st.i.tch--_Opus Plumarium_. We have already said that it was so-called from its likeness to the plumage of a bird.

This comes from the even lie of the st.i.tches, which fit into and appear to overlap each other, presenting thus a marked contrast to the granulated effect of tent st.i.tches, and the long ridges of the _Opus Anglic.u.m_, having no hard lines as in stem st.i.tch, or flat surfaces as in satin st.i.tch.

Feather st.i.tch, when worked in a frame, is exactly the same as that worked in the hand, except that it is more even and smooth. The needle is taken backwards and forwards through the material in st.i.tches of varying lengths; the next row always fitting into the vacant s.p.a.ces and projecting beyond them, so as to prepare for the following row.

Every possible gradation of colour can be effected in this way, and it applies to every form of design--floral or arabesque. Natural flowers have mostly been worked in this st.i.tch.

A skilful embroiderer will be careful not to waste more silk than is absolutely necessary on the back of the work, while, at the same time, she will not sacrifice the artistic effect by being too sparing of her back st.i.tches.

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"COUCHING," OR LAID EMBROIDERY.

This name is properly applied to all forms of embroidery in which the threads of crewel, silk, or gold are laid on the surface, and st.i.tched on to it by threads coming from the back of the material. Under this head may be cla.s.sed as varieties the ordinary "laid backgrounds,"

"diaper couchings," "brick st.i.tch," "basket st.i.tch," and the various forms of stuffed couchings which are found in ancient embroideries.

Couching outlines are usually thick strands of double crewel, tapestry wool, filoselle, cord, or narrow ribbon laid down and st.i.tched at regular intervals by threads crossing the couching line at right angles. They are used for coa.r.s.e outline work, or for finis.h.i.+ng the edges of applique.

_Plain Couching_, or "_Laid Embroidery_."--The threads are first laid evenly and straight from side to side of the s.p.a.ce to be filled in, whether in the direction of warp or woof depends on the pattern; the needle being pa.s.sed through to the back, and brought up again not quite close, but at a sufficient distance to allow of an intermediate st.i.tch being taken backwards; thus the threads would be laid alternately first, third, second, fourth, and so on. This gives a better purchase at each end than if they were laid consecutively in a straight line. If the line slants much, it is not necessary to alternate the rows. When the layer is complete, threads of metal, or of the same or different colour and texture, are laid across at regular intervals, and are fixed down by st.i.tches from the back.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 11.--PLAIN COUCHING.]

The beauty of this work depends upon its regularity.

This kind of embroidery, which we find amongst the old Spanish, Cretan, and Italian specimens, is very useful where broad, flat effects without shading are required; but unless it is very closely st.i.tched down, it is not durable if there is any risk of its being exposed to rough usage. It is possible to obtain very fine effects of colour in this style of work, as was seen in the old Venetian curtains transferred and copied for Louisa, Lady Ashburton. These were shown at the time of the Exhibition of Ancient Needlework at the School in 1878.

Ancient embroidery can be beautifully restored by grounding in "laid work," instead of transferring it where the ground is frayed, and the work is worthy of preservation. It must be stretched on a new backing, the frayed material carefully cut away, and the new ground couched as we have described.

In other varieties of couching, under which come the many forms of diapering, the threads are "laid" in the same manner as for ordinary couching; but in place of laying couching lines across these, the threads of the first layer are simply st.i.tched down from the back, frequently with threads of another colour.

_Net-patterned Couching._--The fastening st.i.tches are placed diagonally instead of at right angles, forming a network, and are kept in place by a cross-st.i.tch at each intersection.

This style of couching was commonly used as a ground in ecclesiastical work of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries.

_Brick St.i.tch._--The threads are laid down two together, and are st.i.tched across at regular intervals. The next two threads are then placed together by the side, the fastening st.i.tches being taken at the same distance from each other, but so as to occur exactly between the previous couplings. Thus giving the effect of brickwork.

_Diaper Couchings._--By varying the position of the fastening st.i.tches different patterns may be produced, such as diagonal crossings, diamonds, zigzags, curves, &c.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 12.--THREE ILl.u.s.tRATIONS OF DIAPER COUCHINGS.]

They are properly all gold st.i.tches; but purse silk, thin cord, or even untwisted silk may be used.

A wonderful example of the many varieties of diapering is to be seen in the South Kensington Museum, No. 689. It is modern Belgian work, executed for the Paris Exhibition of 1867. As a specimen of fine and beautiful diapering in gold, this could scarcely be surpa.s.sed.

_Basket St.i.tch_ is one of the richest and most ornamental of these ancient modes of couching. Rows of "stuffing," manufactured in the form of soft cotton cord, are laid across the pattern and firmly secured. Across these are placed gold threads, two at a time, and these are st.i.tched down over each two rows of stuffing. The two gold threads are turned at the edge of the pattern, and brought back close to the last, and fastened in the same way. Three double rows of gold may be st.i.tched over the same two rows of stuffing.

The next three rows must be treated as brick st.i.tch, and fastened exactly between the previous st.i.tchings, and so on, until the whole s.p.a.ce to be worked is closely covered with what appears to be a golden wicker-work.

Strong silk must be used for the st.i.tching.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 13.--BASKET St.i.tCH.]

The Spanish School of Embroidery has always been famed for its excellence in this style, and has never lost the art. The "Embroiderers of the King," as they are called, still turn out splendid specimens of this heavy and elaborate work, which are used for the gorgeous trappings of the horses of the n.o.bility on gala days and state occasions.

A beautiful specimen was exhibited at the Royal School of Art-Needlework, in 1878, by the Countess Brownlow, of an altar-hanging, entirely worked in basket st.i.tch, in gold on white satin, and a modern example is still to be seen at the School in a large counterpane, which was worked for the Philadelphia Exhibition from an ancient one also belonging to Lady Brownlow.

The Spanish embroiderers used these forms of couching over stuffing with coloured silks as well as gold, and produced wonderfully rich effects. One quilt exhibited by Mrs. Alfred Morrison in 1878 was a marvel of colouring and workmans.h.i.+p.

Basket st.i.tch is mostly used now for church embroidery, or for small articles of luxury, such as ornamental pockets, caskets, &c.

Diapering is generally employed in the drapery of small figures, and in ecclesiastical work.

Many fabrics are manufactured in imitation of the older diapered backgrounds, and are largely used to replace them. Among these are the material known as silk brocatine, and several kinds of cloth of gold mentioned in our list of materials.

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