Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet Part 6

Knit 1 round plain; narrow the 2d round as follows: On 1st side needle knit to within 3 of end, narrow, knit 1; knit across front needle; on side needle knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pa.s.s slipped st.i.tch over, and knit to end. Decrease in this manner every 2d round until there are 15 st.i.tches on each side needle, reducing them to correspond with the front needle, and making 10 narrowings for the instep.

Knit five inches without narrowing, then decrease for the toe in the following manner: Knit to within 3 of end of 1st side needle, narrow, knit 1; on front needle, knit 1, slip and bind as before, knit to within 3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on other side needle, knit 1, slip and bind, knit plain to the end. Knit 2 rounds plain, and repeat last 3 rounds three times more; then decrease with 1 row plain between three times, and after that decrease every row until there are but 4 st.i.tches on the front needle. Finish off neatly, drawing the toe together and darning in with a worsted-needle.

One-Piece Helmet

[Ill.u.s.tration: One-Piece Helmet]

One hank of yarn ( pound); Red Cross needles No. 2.

Cast on 56 st.i.tches loosely. Knit plain for 8 inches for front piece, and leave on extra needle. Knit another piece to correspond for back.

These pieces must be at least 9 inches wide. Slip the st.i.tches of both pieces on to 3 needles, arranging for last 2 st.i.tches of back piece to be on beginning of 1st needle, with 38 st.i.tches of front piece added (making 40 on 1st needle).

Divide rest of st.i.tches on other 2 needles; 36--36.

Beginning with 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches. Then on 1st needle knit 2, purl 2 for 18 st.i.tches. Bind off 22 st.i.tches for face opening. (Try to keep same arrangement of st.i.tches on needles for further directions.) Knit 2, purl 2 forward and back on remaining 90 st.i.tches for 1 inches, always slipping first st.i.tch. Cast on 22 st.i.tches loosely to complete face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2 inches (adjust st.i.tches by slipping 2 from end of 3d needle to 1st needle, making 42 on 1st needle).

Knit 1 round plain. Knit 2 st.i.tches together, knit 11, knit 2 st.i.tches together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows plain. Then knit 2 st.i.tches together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows plain. Continue in this way, narrowing on every fifth round and reducing number of st.i.tches between narrowed st.i.tches by 2 (as 7, 5, 3, etc.) until you have 28 st.i.tches left on needles. Divide on 2 needles, having 14 on 1st needle and 14 on the other.

Break off yarn, leaving 12-inch end. Thread into worsted-needle and proceed to weave the front and back together as follows:

* Pa.s.s worsted-needle through 1st st.i.tch of front knitting-needle as if knitting, and slip st.i.tch off--pa.s.s through 2d st.i.tch as if purling--leave st.i.tch on, pa.s.s thread through 1st st.i.tch of back needle as if purling, slip st.i.tch off, pa.s.s thread through 2d st.i.tch of back needle as if knitting, leave st.i.tch on. Repeat from * until all the st.i.tches are off the needle.

m.u.f.fler

[Ill.u.s.tration: m.u.f.fler]

Two and one-half skeins of knitting-yarn and one pair amber needles No.

5, or Red Cross needles No. 3 will be required. Cast on 50 st.i.tches, measuring 11 inches, and knit back and forth until the m.u.f.fler is sixty-eight inches in length.

Hot-Water-Bottle Cover

[Ill.u.s.tration: Hot-Water-Bottle Cover]

White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.

Cast on 56 st.i.tches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the work is 4 inches deep. Then knit back and forth plain for 9 inches more, or until entire work measures 13 inches. Next decrease 2 st.i.tches at beginning and 2 st.i.tches at end of each needle until there are sixteen st.i.tches left, and bind off. Make another piece in same manner and sew together. Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing to tie around neck of bottle.

Helmet Made in Two Parts

[Ill.u.s.tration: Helmet Made in Two Parts]

One hank of yarn ( pound); 1 pair Red Cross Needles No. 2.

The helmet is made in two parts, which afterward are sewed together.

FRONT OF HELMET.--Cast on 48 st.i.tches (11 inches), knit plain for 25 ribs (6 inches) and knit 2, purl 2 for 35 rows. On the next row the opening for the face is made as follows: Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, knit and bind off loosely the next 28 st.i.tches and purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2. Run the st.i.tches before the opening on a spare needle and on the st.i.tches at the other side of opening knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. The last row will end at the opening, and at that point cast on 28 st.i.tches to offset those bound off. Begin at the face opening of st.i.tches on spare needle and knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. At the end of the 12th row continue all across to the end of other needle, when there should be 48 st.i.tches on needle as at first. Knit 2, purl 2 for 24 rows.

TOP OF HELMET.--Knit 2, narrow (knitting 2 st.i.tches together), knit 14, narrow, knit 14, narrow, knit 12. Purl the entire next row. On the 3d row knit 2, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 11. Purl 4th row. On the 5th row knit 2, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 10. Purl 6th row. Continue to narrow in the 3 places every plain knitted row with 1 st.i.tch less between narrowings until 9 st.i.tches are left.

BACK OF HELMET.--Work in same manner as for front but omit the face opening. Sew the st.i.tches of upper edges together with joining-st.i.tch.

Sew up the side seams, leaving the plain knitting at shoulders open.

Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet

[Ill.u.s.tration: Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet]

The thumbless mitt or wristlet requires one half hank of knitting-yarn, gray, with No. 2 Red Cross needles or No. 11 or No. 12 steel needles.

Nine st.i.tches measure one inch. Cast on 48 st.i.tches and knit 2, purl 2, for 12 inches; bind off and sew up, leaving an opening for the thumb two inches in length, three inches from one end. The ordinary wristlets or pulse-warmers are knitted in the same way, 8 inches long, and sewed up with no thumb-opening.

Wristlets made in one piece require one half hank of yarn, and 4 bone needles No. 3, or steel needles No. 12. Cast on 52 st.i.tches on 3 needles; 16-16-20. Knit 2, purl 2, for 8 inches. To make opening for thumb, knit 2, purl 2 to end of "Third" needle, turn; knit and purl back to end of "First" needle, always slipping first st.i.tch, turn. Continue knitting back and forth for 2 inches. From this point continue as at first for 4 inches for the hand. Bind off loosely; b.u.t.tonhole thumb-opening.

Bed-Sock

[Ill.u.s.tration: Bed-sock]

One hank of yarn ( pound) is required, with Red Cross needles No. 2 or steel needles No. 11 or 12.

Cast 48 st.i.tches on three needles, 16 on each. Knit plain and loosely for 20 inches. Decrease every other st.i.tch by knitting two st.i.tches together until you have 12 st.i.tches on each of two needles opposite each other. Break off yarn and weave st.i.tches together as per directions for finis.h.i.+ng one-piece helmet.

Child's Drawers-Leggings Knitted

[Ill.u.s.tration: Child's Drawers-Leggings, Knitted]

Materials required are six hanks of Germantown wool, a pair of bone needles No. 4, and a pair of steel needles, No. 15.

Cast on 68 st.i.tches.

1 to 16. Knit 2, purl 2; repeat. This is the double rib.

17. Knit 6 plain, turn; knit back on these 6 st.i.tches, turn.

18. Knit 12, turn; knit back on these 12 st.i.tches.

Continue working in this way, knitting 6 more st.i.tches forward each row and knitting back on the same, until you have 36 st.i.tches on the needle.

Knit back on these 36 st.i.tches, turn. This brings 6 ridges at one side of the work. Now knit plain across the entire 68 st.i.tches.

Continue knitting back and forth until you have 34 ridges (not counting the 6 ridges at one side of work); in next row narrow once at each end of row, and continue in this way, narrowing a st.i.tch each end, until you have 50 st.i.tches remaining on the needle.

Do 12 rows of double rib (knit 2, purl 2), then begin the cable-twist of ankle, thus: