The Boy Mechanic Part 100

Take an ordinary gla.s.s fruit jar or any other receptacle in gla.s.s, not metal, which will hold 1 qt. of liquid and fill it with rain or distilled water and then add 3/4 oz. of silver chloride and 1-1/2 oz. of c.p. pota.s.sium cyanide. Let this dissolve and incorporate well with the water before using. Take an ordinary wet battery and fasten two copper wires to the terminals and fasten the other ends of the wires to two pieces of heavy copper wire or 1/4-in. bra.s.s pipe. The wires must be well soldered to the bra.s.s pipe to make a good connection. When the solution is made up and entirely dissolved the outfit is ready for plating.

Procure a small piece of silver, a silver b.u.t.ton, ring, chain or anything made entirely of silver and fasten a small copper wire to it and hang on the bra.s.s pipe with connections to the carbon of the battery. Clean the article to be plated well with pumice and a brush saturated in water. When cleaning any article there should be a copper wire attached to it. Do not touch the article after you once start to clean it, or the places touched by your fingers will cause the silver plate to peel off when finished. When well scoured, run clear, cold water over the article and if it appears greasy, place in hot water. When well cleaned place in the plating bath and carefully watch the results. If small bubbles come to the surface you will know that you have too much of the anode or the piece of silver hanging in the solution and you

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plating Jar and Battery]

must draw out enough of the piece until you can see no more bubbles. Leave the piece to be plated in the solution for about one-half hour, then take the article out and with a tooth brush and some pumice, clean the yellowish sc.u.m off, rinse in clear water and dry in sawdust. When thoroughly dry, take a cotton flannel rag and some polis.h.i.+ng powder and polish the article. The article must have a fine polish before plating if it is desired to have a finely polished surface after the plate is put on.

In order to see if your battery is working, take a small copper wire and touch one end to the anode pipe and the other end to the pipe holding the article to be plated. When these two parts touch there will be a small spark. Always take the zincs out of the solution when not in use and the batteries will last longer. This description applies only to silver plating. Articles of lead, pewter, tin or any soft metal cannot be silver plated unless the article is first copper plated.

** Removing a Tight-Fitting Ring from a Finger [361]

When a ring cannot be removed easily from the finger, take a string or thread and draw one end through between the ring and the flesh. Coil the other end of the string around the finger covering the part from the ring to and over the finger joint. Uncoil the string by taking the end placed through the ring and at the same time keep the ring close up to the string. In this way the ring can be easily

[Ill.u.s.tration: Wrapping the Finger]

slipped over the knuckle and off from the finger.

--Contributed by J. K. Miller, Matietta, Penn.

** A Photographic Jig-Saw Puzzle [361]

Take any photographic print and mount it on heavy cardboard, or, if you

[Ill.u.s.tration: Picture Marked for Cutting]

have a jig saw, a thin smooth wood board and mark out various shaped pieces as shown in the accompanying cut. If the picture is mounted on cardboard, the lines can be cut through with a sharp pointed knife. If you have a jig saw, you can make a bromide enlargement from the negative you have selected and mount the print on a smooth board that is not too thick. This wood-mounted picture can be sawed out making all shapes of blocks, which forms a perfect jig-saw puzzle.

--Contributed by Erich Lehmann, New York City.

** Rolling Uphill Illusion [361]

This interesting as well as entertaining illusion, can be made by anyone having a wood-turning lathe. A solid, similar to two cones placed base to base, is accurately turned in a lathe, the sides sloping to an angle of 45 deg. The spindle can be turned out of the solid at the same time as the cone; or, after turning the cone, drive an iron or wood shaft through the center making a tight fit.

The boards for the track are made with a sloping edge on which the cone is to roll. This slope will depend on the diameter of the cone, which can be any size from 3 to 12 in. The slope should not be too flat, or the cone will not roll, and it should be such that the

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Illusion]

one end will be higher than the other by a little less than half the diameter of the cone. Thus it will be seen that the diameter of the cone determines the length of the slope of the tracks. A notch should be cut in the tracks, as indicated, for the shaft to drop into at the end of the course.

The lower end of the tracks are closed until the high edge of the cone rests upon the inside edges of the tracks and the high end spread sufficiently to take the full width of the cone and to allow the shaft to fall into the notches. When the cone and tracks are viewed from the broadside the deception will be more perfect, and will not be discovered until the construction of the model is seen from all sides. Should it be difficult to make the cone from wood, a good subst.i.tute can be made from two funnels.

--Contributed by I. G. Bayley, Cape May Point, N.J.

** Annealing Chisel Steel [362]

Persons who have occasion to use tool or carbon steel now and then and do not have access to an a.s.sorted stock of this material find that the kind most readily obtained at the hardware store is the unannealed steel known as chisel steel. Machining or filing such steel is exceedingly slow and difficult, besides the destruction of tools; as a matter of fact this steel is intended for chisels, drills, and like tools which require only forging and filing. If this steel is annealed, it can be worked as easily as the more expensive annealed steel.

Annealing may be done by heating the steel to a cherry red, not any more, and burying it in a box of slaked lime, where it is allowed to remain until all the heat is gone. If well done, the metal will be comparatively soft and in a condition to machine easily and rapidly. In lieu of lime, bury in ashes, sand, loam, or any substance not inflammable, but fine enough to closely surround the steel and exclude the air so that the steel cools very slowly.

If possible, keep the steel red hot in the fire several hours, the longer the better. In certain processes, like that of file manufacturing, the steel blanks are kept hot for 48 hours or more.

Where it is impossible to wait so long as the foregoing method takes, then a cold water anneal may be used with less time. This method consists of heating the work as slowly and thoroughly as the time will permit, then removing the steel from the fire and allowing it to cool in the air until black and then quenching in water.

In addition to softening the steel, annealing benefits the metal by relieving strains in the piece. Should a particularly accurate job be called for, the steel should be annealed again after the roughing cuts have been taken and before machining to the final size. This will insure a true job and diminishes the danger of spring in the final hardening.

--Contributed by Donald A. Hampson, Middletown, N. Y.

[Ill.u.s.tration: The above photograph was made by first printing a maple leaf of the paper, not too dark, then printing on top the picture from the negative, and finis.h.i.+ng in the usual way.]

** How to Make a Post Card Holder [363]

This holder is designed to lay flat on the counter or to stack one on top of the other, keeping each variety of cards separate, or a number of them can be fastened on any upright surface to display either horizontal or vertical cards.

The holders can be made from sheet tin, zinc, bra.s.s or aluminum.

The dimensions for the right size are given in Fig. 1; the dotted line showing where the bends are made. The

[Ill.u.s.tration: Pattern for Cutting the Metal]

completed holder is shown in Fig. 2 as fastened to a wall.

--Contributed by John F. Williamson, Daytona, Fla.

** Unused Paint [363]

Do not allow paint that is left over from a job to stand uncovered. The can should be tightly sealed and the paint will be found suitable for use for several days.

** Perfume-Making Outfit [363]

The real perfume from the flowers is not always contained in the liquid purchased for perfume. The most expensive perfume can be made at home for less than 10 cents an ounce. The outfit necessary is a large bottle or gla.s.s jar with a smaller bottle to fit snugly into the open mouth of the large one. Secure a small piece of very fine sponge and wash it clean to thoroughly remove all grit and sand.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Bottle with Flowers]

Saturate the sponge with pure olive oil, do not use strong oil, and place it inside of the smaller bottle.

Fill the large bottle or jar with flowers, such as roses, carnations, pansies, honeysuckles or any flower having a strong and sweet odor. Place the small bottle containing the sponge upside down in the large one, as shown in the ill.u.s.tration.

The bottle is now placed in the sun and kept there for a day and then the flowers are removed and fresh ones put in. Change the flowers each day as long as they bloom. Remove the sponge and squeeze out the oil. For each drop of oil add 2 oz. of grain alcohol. If stronger perfume is desired add only 1 oz. alcohol to each drop of oil.