The Boy Mechanic Part 21

** Card Trick with a Tapered Deck [70]

Another simple trick to perform but one not easily detected, is executed by using a tapered deck of cards as shown in Fig. 1. A cheap deck of cards is evened up square, fastened in a vise and planed along the edge in such a manner that all the pack will be tapered about 1/16 in. This taper is exaggerated in the ill.u.s.tration which shows

[Ill.u.s.tration: Cards from a Tapered Deck]

one card that has been turned end for end.

It is evident that any card reversed in this way can be easily separated from the other cards in the pack, which makes it possible to perform the following trick: The performer spreads the cards out, fan-like, and asks an observer to withdraw a card, which is then replaced in any part of the pack. After thoroughly shuffling the cards the performer then holds the deck in both hands behind his back and p.r.o.nouncing a few magic words, produces the card selected in one hand and the rest of the pack in the other. This is accomplished by simply turning the deck end for end while the observer is looking at his card, thus bringing the wide end of the selected card at the narrow end of the pack when it is replaced. The hands are placed behind the pack for a double purpose, as the feat then seems more marvelous and the observers are not allowed to see how it is done.

In prize games, players having the same score are frequently called upon to cut for low to determine which shall be the winner, but a fairer way is to cut for high as a person familiar with the trick shown in Fig. 2 can cut the cards at the ace, deuce, or three spot, nearly every time, especially if the deck is a new one. This is done by simply pressing on the top of the deck as shown, before cutting, thus causing the increased ink surface of the high cards to adhere to the adjacent ones. A little practice will soon enable one to cut low nearly every time, but the cards must be grasped lightly and the experiment should be performed with a new deck to obtain successful results.

--Contributed by D.B.L., Chicago.

** A Constant-Pressure Hydrogen Generator [70]

By fitting three bottles, A, B, C, with rubber stoppers and connecting with gla.s.s tubes as shown in the sketch, hydrogen or other gases produced in a similar manner may be generated under constant pressure. In making hydrogen, bottle B is partly filled with zinc nodules formed by slowly pouring melted zinc into water.

Hydrochloric acid is then poured in the small funnel, thus partly filling bottles A and C. When the acid rising from C comes in contact with the zinc, hydrogen gas is generated and fills bottle B. The gas continues to generate until the pressure is sufficient to force the acid back down the tube into bottle C, when the action ceases. As fast as the gas is used the acid rises in the tube and generates more, thus keeping the pressure nearly constant, the pressure depending on the difference between the levels of the acid in bottle A and bottle B. As this device is easily upset, a ring-stand should be used to prevent its being broken, or if it is to be a permanent apparatus it may be mounted on a substantial wooden base. This apparatus may also be used for preparing acetylene gas or almost any gas which requires a mixture of a solid and liquid in its preparation.

--Contributed by C. S. J., Detroit.

** Restoring Tone to a Cracked Bell [71]

Many a bell with a deadened tone due to a cracked rim, can be given its original clear ringing sound by sawing out the crack with a common hacksaw. Make the saw cut along the line of the crack. The opening caused by the saw will allow the free vibration of the metal.

--Contributed by F. W. Bently, Jr., Huron, S. Dak.

** How to Make a Paper Phonograph Horn [71]

Secure a piece of tubing about 1-3/4 in. long that will fit the connection to the reproducer, and wrap a quant.i.ty of heavy thread around one end as shown in the enlarged sketch A, Fig. 1. Form a cone of heavy paper, 9 in. long and 3 in. in diameter, at the larger end with the smaller end to fit the diameter of the tube A, making it three-ply thick and gluing the layers together. Attach this cone on the tube A where the thread has been wrapped with glue, as shown in Fig. 2. Fig. 2 is also an enlarged sketch. Make ten pieces about 1 ft. 10 in. in length and 3 in. wide from the thin boards of a biscuit or cracker box. Cut an arc of a circle in them on a radius of 2 ft. (Fig. 3). Make a 10-sided stick, 12 in.

long, that will fit loosely in the tube A, to which nail the 10 pieces as shown in Fig. 4, connecting the bottom by cross pieces, using care to keep them at equal distances apart and in a circle whose diameter is about 2 ft.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Detail of Phonograph Horn]

The cone is placed over the stick as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 4 and temporarily fastened in position. Cut out paper sections (Fig. 5) that will cover each s.p.a.ce between the 10 pieces, allowing 1 in. on one side and the top, in which to cut slits that will form pieces to overlap the next section and to attach with glue. Fasten the sections all around in like manner.

The next course is put on in strips overlapping as shown at B, Fig. 6. Finish by putting on sections in the same way as the first course, making it three-ply thick. Remove the form, trim to suit and glue a piece of paper over the edge. When the glue is thoroughly hardened, put on two coats of white and one of blue paint, shading it to suit and striping it with gold bronze.

** How to Make a Hygrometer [71]

A homemade hygrometer, for determining the degree of moisture in the atmosphere, is shown in the accompanying sketch and consists of a board, A, with a nail at each end to hold the silk thread B.

A second piece of silk thread, C, is tied to the center of B and connects with an indicating hand or pointer supported by the bracket D. The axle on which the pointer revolves consists of a piece of round wood, about the size of a lead-pencil, with a pin driven in each end. A piece of tin, E, is cut V-shaped at each end and bent up at the ends to form bearings for the pins. The silk thread C is fastened to the wooden axle and is wrapped one or two turns around it, so that when

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Hygrometer]

the thread is pulled the pointer will move on the scale. It will be noticed that the thread B is not perfectly straight, but bends toward D. For this reason a very small shrinkage of B, such as occurs when the atmosphere is dry, will cause an increased movement of C, which will be further increased in the movement of the pointer. An instrument of this kind is very interesting and costs nothing to make.

--Contributed by Reader, Denver.

** The Protection of a Spring Lock [72]

After shutting the front door and hearing the spring lock snap into its socket, most people go off with a childlike faith in the safety of their goods and chattels. But the cold fact is that there is scarcely any locking device which affords less protection than the ordinary spring lock. It is the simplest thing in the world for a sneak thief to slip a thin knife between the door-casing and the strip, push back the bolt, and walk in.

Fortunately, it is equally easy to block that trick. Take a narrow piece of tin 3 or 4 in. long, bend it at right angles throughout its length, and tack it firmly in the angle between the casing and strip, so as to make it impossible to reach the bolt without tearing off the strip.

Another way is to drive nails through the strip at intervals of half an inch, enough to protect the bolt from being meddled with.

** A Controller and Reverse for a Battery Motor [72]

Secure a cigar or starch box and use to make the base, B. Two wood-base switches, S S, are cut off a little past the center and fastened to the base with a piece of wood between them. The upper switch, S, is connected to different equal points on a coil of wire, W, while the lower switch, S, is connected each point to a battery, as shown. The reverse switch, R, is made from two bra.s.s or copper strips fastened at the top to the base with screws and joined together by a piece of hard rubber or wood with a small handle attached. Connect wires A to the armature and wires F to the field of the motor. By this arrangement one, two or three and so on up until all the battery cells are used and different points of resistance secured on the coil of wire. The reverse lever when moved from right to left, or left to right, changes the direction of the armature in the motor from one way to the other.

--Contributed by J. Fremont Hilscher, Jr., West St. Paul, Minn.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Motor Reverse and Controller]

** How to Build a Grape Arbor [73]

A grape arbor made of white pine, put together as shown in the sketch, will last for several years. The 2 by

[Ill.u.s.tration: Grape-Arbor Trellis]

4-in. posts, A, are 7 ft. long. The feet, B, are made 2 by 4 in., 4 ft. long, and rest on a brick placed under each end.

** How to Make a Toy Steam Engine [73]

A toy engine can be easily made from old implements which can be found in nearly every house.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Toy Steam Engine a.s.sembled]

The cylinder A, Fig. 1, is an old bicycle pump, cut in half. The steam chest D, is part of the piston tube of the same pump, the other parts being used for the bearing B, and the crank bearing C.

The flywheel Q can be any small-sized iron wheel; either an old sewing-machine wheel, pulley wheel, or anything available. We used a wheel from an old high chair for our engine. If the bore in the wheel is too large for the shaft, it may be bushed with a piece of hard wood. The shaft is made of heavy steel wire, the size of the hole in the bearing B.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Valve Motion and Construction of Piston]

The base is made of wood, and has two wood blocks, H and K, 3/8 in. thick, to support bearing B, and valve crank S, which is made of tin. The hose E connects to the boiler, which will be described later. The clips FF are soldered to the cylinder and nailed to the base, and the bearing B is fastened by staples.

The valve motion is shown in Figs. 2 and 3. In Fig. 2 the steam is entering the cylinder, and in Fig. 3 the valve B has closed the steam inlet and opened the exhaust, thus allowing the steam in the cylinder to escape.