The Boy Mechanic Part 64

[Ill.u.s.tration: Two Designs of Cases]

method of treatment is used, but a form will need to be made and placed inside the case while the leather is drying to give it the right shape. The form can be made of a stick of wood.

** Waterproofing a Wall [229]

The best way to make a tinted wall waterproof is to first use a material composed of cement properly tinted and with no glue in it--one that will not require a glue size on the wall. After this coating of cement is applied directly to the plaster, cover it completely with water enamel and, when dry, give the surface a thorough coating of varnish. This will make a perfectly impervious covering, which steam, water or heat will not affect.

--Contributed by Julia A. White, New York City.

**Polis.h.i.+ng Flat Surfaces [229]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Polisher]

The work of finis.h.i.+ng a number of bra.s.s castings with flat sides was accomplished on an ordinary polis.h.i.+ng wheel, from which the first few layers of cloth were removed and replaced with emery cloth. The emery surface of the cloth was placed outward and trimmed to the same diameter as the wheel. This made a sanding and polis.h.i.+ng wheel in one.

--Contributed by Chester L. Cobb, Portland, Maine.

** Rubber Tip for Chair Legs [229]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Rubber Tips]

An inexpensive method of preventing a chair from scratching the floor is to bore a hole of the proper size in the bottom end of each chair leg and then procure four rubber stoppers of uniform size and press them into place.

This cus.h.i.+on of rubber eliminates vibrations, and they will not slip nor mar the finest surface upon which they rest.

--Contributed by W. A. Jaquythe, Richmond, Cal.

** Adjusting a Plumb-Bob Line [229]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Line Adjustment]

When plumbing a piece of work, if there is no help at hand to hold the overhead line, it is common practice to fasten the plumb line to a nail or other suitable projection. On coming down to the lower floor it is often found that the bob has been secured either too high or too low. When fastening the line give it plenty of slack and when the lower floor is reached make a double loop in the line, as shown in the sketch. Tightening up on the parts AA will bind the loop bight B, and an adjustable friction-held loop, C, will be had for adjusting the bob accurately either up or down.

--Contributed by Chas. Herrman, New York City.

** Drier for Footwear [229]

A drier for footwear can be readily made by a tinner, or anyone that can shape tin and solder. The drier consists of a pipe of sufficient length to enter the longest boot leg. Its top is bent at right angles and the other end is riveted to a base, an inverted stewpan, for instance, in whose bottom a few perforations have been made to let air in. The boot or stocking to be dried is placed over the pipe and the whole set on a heated surface. The heat will cause a rapid circulation of air which will dry the article quickly.

--Contributed by Wm. Roberts, Cambridge, Ma.s.s.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Show Drier]

** Repairing A Roller Shade [229]

A very satisfactory repair can be made by using a good photographic paste to fasten a torn window shade to its roller.

** A Shot Scoop [230]

In the ammunition department of our hardware store the shot was kept in regular square bins and dished out

[Ill.u.s.tration: A Small Square Scoop Made of Tin for Dipping Up Shot Stored in a Square Bin]

with a round-bottom scoop. This was very difficult, especially when the bottom of the bin was nearly reached, as the round scoop would roll over them and only pick up a few at a time. To overcome this difficulty I constructed a square-shaped scoop that gave entire satisfaction. The scoop can be used for other purposes as well.

A thick piece of tin, 6-1/4 by 9-3/4 in., was marked out as shown, the pattern being cut on the full lines and bent on the dotted ones. The strip for the handle was riveted to the end of the scoop.

--Contributed by Geo. B. Wright, Middletown, Conn.

** Removing Grease Stains from the Leaves of a Book [230]

Happening to get a grease spot on a page of a valuable book, I found a way to remove it without injury to the paper, which has been tried out several times with success.

Heat an iron and hold it as near as possible to the stain without discoloring the paper, and the grease will disappear. If any traces of the grease are left, apply powdered calcined magnesia.

Bone, well calcined and powdered, and plaster of Paris are also excellent absorbents of grease.

A beautifully bound book, and quite new, had oil from a lamp spilled over it. There was no quicklime to be had, so some bones were quickly calcined, pulverized and applied. The next morning there was no trace of oil, but only an odor which soon vanished.

--Contributed by Paul Keller, Indianapolis, Ind.

** Tightening Cane in Furniture [230]

Split cane, used as part of furniture, such as chair seats, often becomes loose and the threads of cane pull out. This can be prevented by sponging with hot water, or by applying steaming cloths to the cane. This process also tightens the shreds of cane and does not injure ordinary furniture. If the article is highly polished, care should be taken to prevent the hot water from coming in contact with anything but the cane.

** Cleaner for a Stovepipe [230]

A long horizontal pipe for a stove soon fills with soot and must be cleaned. The usual method is to beat the pipe after taking it down to be cleaned, but a much better device for the purpose is shown in the sketch.

A scrub brush is procured and cut in two, the parts being hinged to a crosspiece fastened to a long broom handle. The brushes are pressed outward

[Ill.u.s.tration: Stovepipe Brush]

against the inside surfaces of the pipe with a wire and spring, as shown.

--Contributed by C. L. Herbert, Chicago, Illinois.