Early English Meals and Manners Part 47

l. 541. Curlew the Common, _Numenius arquata_, Y. ii. 610 (there are other varieties).

l. 542. Bustard, the Great, _Otis tarda_, Y. ii. 428; the Little (rare here) ii. 452.

l. 542. Shoveler (blue-winged, or Broad-Bill), _Anas clypeata_, Y. iii.

247. Snipe, the Common, _Scolopax gallinago_, Y. iii. 38 (11 other sorts).

l. 543. Woodc.o.c.k, _Scolopax rusticola_, Y. iii. 1.

l. 543. Lapwing or Peewit, _Vanellus cristatus_, ii. 515.

l. 543. The Martin, or House Martin, _Hirundo urbica_, Y. ii. 255; the Sand or Bank Martin, _Hirundo riparia_, ii. 261.

l. 544. Quail, the Common, _Coturnix vulgaris_, Y. ii. 413.

l. 546. On Fish wholesome or not, see Bullein, fol. lx.x.xiij., and on Meats, fol. 82.

l. 548. Torrentille: Mr Skeat suggests '? Torrent-eel.' Though the spelling of Randle Holme's A _Sandile_ or a _Sandeele_ (Bk. II., p. 333), and Aldrovandi's (p. 252 h.) "De _Sandilz_ Anglorum" may help this, yet, as Dr Gunther says, eels have nothing to do with torrents.

_Torrentille_ may be the Italian _Tarentella_: see note on Torrentyne, l. 835 below.

l. 555. _Ling._ There shall be stryken of every Saltfische called a Lyng Fische vj Stroks after iij Strooks in a Side. _Percy Household Book_, p. 135.

l. 558. _Stockfish._ Vocatur autem 'Stockfisch' a trunco, cui hic piscis aridus tundendus imponitur. ariditate enim ita riget, ut nisi praemaceratus aqua, aut praetunsus, coqui non possit. _Gesner_, p. 219.

'_Ie te frotteray a double carillon._ I will beat thee like a _stockfish_, I will swinge thee while I may stand ouer thee.' Cotgrave.

'The tenne chapitule' of 'The Libelle of Englysch Polycye' is headed 'Of the coundius _stokfysshe_ of Yselonde,' &c., &c., and begins

Of Yseland to wryte is lytille nede, Save of _stockfische_.

A. Borde, in his Introduction to Knowledge, under Islond, says,

And I was borne in Islond, as brute as a beest; Whan I ete candels ends I am at a feest; Talow and raw _stockefysh_ I do loue to ete, In my countrey it is right good meate.

... In stede of bread they do eate _stocfyshe_, and they wyll eate rawe fyshe & fleshe; they be beastly creatures, vnmannered and vntaughte. The people be good fyshers; muche of theyr fishe they do barter with English men for mele, lases, a{n}d shoes & other pelfery. (See also under Denmarke.)

l. 559. _Mackerel._ See m.u.f.fett's comment on them, and the English and French ways of cooking them, p. 157.

l. 569. Onions. Walnuts be hurtfull to the Memory, and so are _Onyons_, because they annoy the Eyes with dazeling dimnesse through a hoate vapour. T. Newton, _Touchstone_, ed. 1581, fol. 125 b.

l. 572. A _Rochet_ or _Rotbart_ is a red kind of _Gurnard_, and is so called in the South parts of England; and in the East parts it is called a _Curre_, and a _Golden polle_. R. Holme.

l. 575. A _Dace_ or a Blawling, or a Gresling, or a Zienfische, or Weyfisch; by all which the Germans call it, which in Latin is named _Leucorinus_. And the French _Vengeron_, which is English'd to me a _Dace_, or _Dace-fish_. R. Holme.

l. 577. _Refett._ "I thought it clear that _refett_ was roe, and I do not yet give it up. But see P. P., _Refeccyon_, where the editor gives '_refet of_ fisshe K., _refet or_ fishe H., _reuet_ P.,' from other ma.n.u.scripts, and cites in a note Roquefort from Fr. _reffait_ (refait) as meaning a fish, the _rouget_, &c., &c. The authority of Roquefort is not much, and he gives no citation. If, however, in K. H. and P. these forms are used instead of the spelling _refeccyon_, and defined _refectio, refectura_, it rather embarra.s.ses the matter. Halliwell cites no authority for _rivet_, roe." G. P. Marsh. See note to l. 839 here, p. 108.

l. 580. _Gobbin_, or _Gobbet_, or _Gubbins_: Meat cut in large peeces, as large as an Egg. R. Holme.

l. 584. A _Thornbacke_, soe called from the Sharp Crooked p.r.i.c.ks set on Studs, all down the middle of the Back. R. Holme.

l. 584. _Hound Fysch._ A Sow-Hound-Fish ... So it is called from its resemblance of a _Dog_, and its fatness like to a _Swine_: though most term it a _Dog-Fish_. It hath a small Head, great Eyes; wide Mouth, rough, sharp and thick skinned. R. Holme.

l. 584, l. 830. _Thorlepolle._ Aldrovandi, describing the _Balaena vera Rondel[etii]_ says: Hec belua Anglis, (vt dixi) h.o.r.e vocatur, & alio nomine Horlepoole & VVirlepoole etiam, ni fallor, earu{m} nimiru{m} omnium significatione, qud impetuo suo & flatu vorticosas in mari tanquam palude procellas excitet. Oleum ex ea colligi aiunt. p. 677. See Holland's Plinie on the Whales and Whirlepooles called Balaenae, which take up in length as much as foure acres or arpens of land, v. 1, p. 235, &c.

Thornback, _Raja_. Thornback, which Charles Chester merily and not unfitly calleth Neptune's beard, was extolled by Antiphanes in Athenaeus history for a dainty fish; indeed it is of a pleasant taste, but of a stronger smell than Skate, over-moist to nourish much, but not so much as to hinder l.u.s.t, which it mightily encreaseth. m.u.f.fett, p. 172.

l. 596. _Verjuice_ is the juice of Crabs or sour Apples. R. Holme.

l. 622. _Jole of Sturgion or Salmon_ is the two quarters of them, the head parts being at them. R. Holme.

l. 630. _Lamprey pie._ In the Hengrave Household Accounts is this entry "for presenting a _lamprey pye_ vj d." "It{e}m. the xiiij day of January [1503] to a servant of the Pryour of Lanthony in reward for brynging of two bakyn laumpreys to the Quene v s. Nicolas's Elizabeth of York, p. 89, and Glossary."

Under 'How several sorts of Fish are named, according to their Age or Growth,' p. 324-5, R. Holme gives

An _Eel_, first a Fauser, then a Grigg, or Snigg, then a Scaffling, then a little Eel; when it is large, then an _Eel_, and when very large, a _Conger_.

A _Pike_, first a Hurling pick, then a Pickerel, then a _Pike_, then a _Luce_ or _Lucie_.

A Smelt or _Sparling_, first a Sprat, then a small Sparling, then a _Sparling_.

A Codd, first a Whiting, then a Codling, then a Codd.

A _Lamprey_, first a Lamp.r.o.n Grigg, then a Lampret, then a Lamprell, then a _Lamprey_.

A _Lamp.r.o.n_, first a Barle, than a Barling, then a Lamprell, and then a _Lamprey_ or _Lamp.r.o.n_.

A _Crevice_, first a Sp.r.o.n Frey, then a Shrimp, then a Sprawn, and when it is large, then called a _Crevice_.

The curious Burlesques, pp. 81-2, 85-6, vol. 1 of _Reliquiae Antiquae_, contain a great many names of fish.

l. 631. _Pasty_ is paste rouled broad, and the Meat being laid in Order on it, it is turned over, and made up on three sides, with garnishes about. R. Holme.

l. 634, note. [Footnote 178 in this e-text] _Galingale._ Harman (ed.

Strother, 1727) notices three varieties, _Cyperus rotundus_, round Galingal; _Galanga major_, Galingal; _Galanga minor_, lesser Galingal.

Gallinga, Lat. Galanga, says Bp Percy, is the root of a gra.s.sy-leaved plant brought from the East Indies, of an aromatic smell and hot biting bitterish Taste, anciently used among other Spices, but now almost laid aside. Lewis, _Mat. Med._ p. 286. See Mr Way's note 4 in Pr. Parv.

p. 185.

'_Galendyne_ is a sauce for any kind of roast Fowl, made of Grated Bread, beaten Cinnamon and Ginger, Sugar, Claret-wine, and Vinegar, made as thick as Grewell.' Randle Holme, Bk. III., chap. III., p. 82, col. 2.

See also Recipes in Markham's Houswife, the second p. 70, and the first p. 77.

l. 657. A sewer, _appositor ciborum. Appono_, to sette vpon the table.

Withals.

l. 686. See Randle Holme's 'relation of the Feast made by George Nevill, Arch-Bishop of York, at the time of his Consecration, or Installation, 7. Edw. IV. 1467-8,' and his other Bills of Fare, p. 77-81, Book III.

Chap. III.

l. 686. _Mustard_ is a kind of sharp biting sauce, made of a small seed bruised and mixed with Vinegar. R. Holme.

l. 686. _Dynere._ Compare the King's dinner in _The Squyr of Lowe Degree_.