Jacobean Embroidery Part 2

PLATE 7

Most of the st.i.tchery shown here is similar to that on the preceding plates, but has the addition of the plait st.i.tch[4] edged with b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tch in the veins of the big leaf, and the close knots on the sheaf of the foxgloves, while the sheaf of the convolvulus has veins of stem st.i.tch and small French knots.

In all this piece of work there is to be noted a great deal of b.u.t.tonholing and darning.

[4] A variation of herring-bone st.i.tch.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 7]

Op. IV

PLATE 8

Shows many uses to which stem st.i.tch can be put, which is the only st.i.tch employed in the work ill.u.s.trated here, if we except the little arrow-heads used to edge the vine leaf.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 8]

The following sketches were taken from a most beautiful and elaborate strip of work, forming part of some bed-hangings, dated A.D. 1696, worked in hard twisted crewels in blue, mignonette, and green colourings only.

PLATE 9

treats of b.u.t.ton-holeing st.i.tch done in a variety of ways.

No. 1 has groups of three b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tches and crosses in centre, and is edged by chain st.i.tch and arrow-heads.

No. 2. b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch centre and edge.

No. 3. b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch with stalks in stem st.i.tch.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 9]

PLATE 10

In this sketch are three princ.i.p.al st.i.tches, viz.: Chain st.i.tch filling in s.p.a.ces Nos. 1-2 (on left of sketch) and forming the contour of the whole leaf; b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch filling s.p.a.ces Nos. 3-4; and a lace st.i.tch filling s.p.a.ces Nos. 5-6-7. The other two s.p.a.ces are filled by brick st.i.tch, and darning with little veins of coral st.i.tch and herring bone. There are loop st.i.tches in the centre of the veining in s.p.a.ces 6-7, and these are also worked round the outside of the leaf.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 10]

PLATE 10a

This leaf, having a contour of chain st.i.tch, is filled in at the top with a brown and blue branch in stem st.i.tch, edged with short-and-long st.i.tch. The green turnover is in chain st.i.tch with blue chain st.i.tch veins, and the blue turnovers at base of leaf are done in a lace surface st.i.tch, while the rest is filled in with small darning st.i.tches, coral st.i.tches and a little bit of b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tching. The three central leaves crossing stem are in red and green, and blue and green; the brown stalks are worked in stem st.i.tch. Loops are worked round the outside of the leaf here as in all the bigger leaves on this work. The spike on the left of the sketch is in herring bone st.i.tch edged with arrow heads.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 10a]

Op. V

The following three plates are sketches from the bed hangings in the "Chapel" room at Hardwicke Hall, Derbys.h.i.+re--the property of the Duke of Devons.h.i.+re.

PLATE 11

Shows the full design, which is a repeating one, of the hangings. The details of the st.i.tchery will be found on the following plates.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 11]

PLATE 12

No. 1. One of the many conventional foliations in this design, carried out in stem st.i.tch, b.u.t.tonhole and darning.

No. 2. Close chain st.i.tch for the circles with herring bone for the stalk running through them.

No. 3. The same stem as in foxgloves but with darning introduced up the centre.

No. 4. The sheafs of the foxgloves are worked in crochet st.i.tch edged stem st.i.tch.

The contours of flowers in back st.i.tch, filled in short-and-long st.i.tches and darning.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 12]

PLATE 13

No. 1. Contour in chain st.i.tch. Vein stem st.i.tch edged two rows short-and-long st.i.tches and darning.

No. 2. Contour in _double_ chain st.i.tch. Veins in knot st.i.tch edged darning. Loops in middle of centre vein.

No. 3. Contour in stem st.i.tch; vein ditto, edged with two rows of short-and-long st.i.tches and darning.

No. 4. Contour in chain st.i.tch, edged darning. Centre vein chain st.i.tch.

Branching veins knot st.i.tch outlined with darning st.i.tches.

No. 5. Contour b.u.t.tonhole st.i.tch and darning. Veins knot st.i.tch and darning.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE 13]