The Queen-like Closet or Rich Cabinet Part 39

6. A Joll of Sturgeon or Fresh Salmon.

7. A Dish of Tarts or Custards.

8. A Dish of Anchovies or Pickled Herring.

When these are taken away, serve in your Cheese and Fruit as before I have told you.

Now because I would have every one Compleat who have a Desire to serve in n.o.ble or Great Houses, I shall here shew them what their Office requires; And,

First, _For the Kitchin, because without that we shall look lean, and grow faint quickly._

The Cook, whether Man or Woman, ought to be very well skilled in all manner of things both Fish and Flesh, also good at Pastry business, seasoning of all things, and knowing all kinds of Sauces, and pickling all manner of Pickles, in making all manner of Meat Jellies; also very frugal of their Lords or of their Masters, Ladies or Mistresses Purse, very saving, cleanly and careful, obliging to all persons, kind to those under them, and willing to inform them, quiet in their Office, not swearing nor cursing, nor wrangling, but silently and ingeniously to do their Business, and neat and quick about it; they ought also to have a very good Fancy: such an one, whether Man or Woman, deserves the t.i.tle of a fit Cook.

_For a Maid under such a Cook._

She ought to be of a quick and nimble Apprehension, neat and cleanly in her own habit, and then we need not doubt of it in her Office; not to dress her self, specially her head, in the Kitchin, for that is abominable s.l.u.ttish, but in her Chamber before she comes down, and that to be at a fit hour, that the fire may be made, and all things prepared for the Cook, against he or she comes in; she must not have a sharp Tongue, but humble, pleasing, and willing to learn; for ill words may provoke Blows from a Cook, their heads being always filled with the contrivance of their business, which may cause them to be peevish and froward, if provoked to it; this Maid ought also to have a good Memory, and not to forget from one day to another what should be done, nor to leave any manner of thing foul at night, neither in the Kitchin, nor Larders, to keep her Iron things and others clean scowred, and the Floors clean as well as places above them, not to sit up junketing and gigling with Fellows, when she should be in bed, such an one is a Consumer of her Masters Goods, and no better than a Thief; and besides, such Behaviour favoureth much of Levity. But such an one that will take the Counsel I have seriously given, will not only make her Superiours happy in a good Servant, but she will make her self happy also; for by her Industry she may come one day to be Mistress over others.

_Now to the Butler._

He ought to be Gentile and Neat in his Habit, and in his Behaviour, courteous to all people, yet very saving of his Masters Goods, and to order himself in his Office as a faithful Steward, charge and do all things for the honour of his Master or Lady, not suffering their Wine or Strong Drink to be devoured by ill Companions, nor the small to be drawn out in waste, nor Pieces of good Bread to lie to mould and spoil, he must keep his Vessels close stopped, and his Bottles sweet, his Cellars clean washed, and his b.u.t.tery clean, and his Bread-Bins wholsom and sweet, his Knives whetted, his Gla.s.ses clean washed that there be no dimness upon them, when they come to be used, all his Plate clean and bright, his Table, Basket and Linnen very neat, he must be sure to have all things of Sauce ready which is for him to bring forth, that it may not be to be fetched when it is called for, as Oil, Vinegar, Sugar, Salt, Mustard, Oranges and Limons, and also some Pepper; he must also be very neat and handy in laying the Clothes for the Chief Table, and also the Side-boards, in laying his Napkins in several Fas.h.i.+ons, and pleiting them, to set his Gla.s.ses, Plate, and Trencher-Plates in order upon the Side-boards, his Water-Gla.s.ses, Oranges or Limons; that he be careful to set the Salts on the Table, and to lay a Knife, Spoon and Fork at every Plate, that his Bread be chipped before he brings it in; that he set drink to warm in due time if the season require; that he observe a fit time to set Chairs or Stools, that he have his Cistern ready to set his Drink in; that none be spilt about the Room, to wash the Gla.s.ses when any one hath drunk, and to wait diligently on them at the Table, not filling the Gla.s.ses too full; such an one may call himself a Butler.

_To the Carver._

If any Gentleman who attends the Table, be employed or commanded to cut up any Fowl or Pig, or any thing else whatsoever, it is requisite that he have a clean Napkin upon his Arm, and a Knife and Fork for his use, that he take that dish he should carve from the Table till he hath made it ready for his Superiours to eat, and neatly and handsomly to carve it, not touching of it so near as he can with his Fingers, but if he chance unawares to do so, not to lick his Fingers, but wipe them upon a Cloth, or his Napkin, which he hath for that purpose; for otherwise it is unhandsom and unmannerly; the neatest Carvers never touch any Meat but with the Knife and Fork; he must be very nimble lest the Meat cool too much, and when he hath done, return it to the Table again, putting away his Carving Napkin, and take a clean one to wait withal; he must be very Gentile and Gallant in his Habit, lest he be deemed unfit to attend such Persons.

_To all other Men-Servants or Maid-Servants who commonly attend such Tables._

They must all be neat and cleanly in their Habit, and keep their Heads clean kembed, always ready at the least Call and very attentive to hear any one at the Table, to set Chairs or Stools, and not to give any a foul Napkin, but see that every one whom their Lord or Master is pleased to admit to their Table, have every thing which is fit for them, and that they change their Plates when need shall be; also that they observe the eyes of a Stranger what they want, and not force them still to want because they are silent, because it is not very modest for an Inferiour to speak aloud before their Betters; and it is more unfit they should want, since they have leave to eat and drink: they must wait diligently, and at a distance from the Table, not daring to lean on the Chaires for soiling them, or shewing Rudeness; for to lean on a Chair when they wait, is a particular favour shewn to any superiour Servant, as the Chief Gentleman, or the Waiting Woman when she rises from the Table; they must not hold the Plates before their mouths to be defiled with their Breath, nor touch them on the right side; when the Lord, Master, Lady or Mistress shew that favour to drink to any Inferiour, and do command them to fill for them to pledge them, it is not modesty for them to deny Strangers that favour, as commonly they do, but to fulfill their Commands, or else they dishonour the Favour.

When any Dish is taken off the Table, they must not set it down for Dogs to eat, nor eat it themselves by the way, but haste into the Kitchin with it to the Cook, that he may see what is to be set away, and what to be kept hot for Servants; when all is taken away, and Thanks given, they must help the Butler out with those things which belong to him, that he may not lose his Dinner.

They must be careful also to lay the Cloth for themselves, and see that nothing be wanting at the Table, and to call the rest of the Servants to Meals, whose Office was not to wait at the Table, then to sit down in a handsom manner, and to be courteous to every Stranger, especially the Servants of those Persons whom their Lord or Master hath a kindness for.

If any poor Body comes to ask an Alms, do not shut the Door against them rudely, but be modest and civil to them, and see if you can procure somewhat for them, and think with your selves, that though you are now full fed, and well cloathed, and free from care, yet you know not what may be your condition another day: So much to Inferiour Servants.

_To the Gentlewomen who have the Charge of the Sweet-Meats, and such like Repasts._

_Gentlewomen_,

Perhaps you do already know what belongs to serving in fine Cream Cheeses, Jellies, Leaches or Sweet-meats, or to set forth Banquets as well as I do; but (pardon me) I speak not to any knowing Person, but to the Ignorant, because they may not remain so; besides really there are new Modes come up now adays for eating and drinking, as well as for Clothes, and the most knowing of you all may perhaps find somewhat here which you have not already seen; and for the Ignorant, I am sure they may ground themselves very well from hence in many accomplishments, and truly I have taken this pains to impart these things for the general good of my Country, as well as my own, and have done it with the more willingness, since I find so many Gentlewomen forced to serve, whose Parents and Friends have been impoverished by the late Calamities, _viz._ the late Wars, Plague, and Fire, and to see what mean Places they are forced to be in, because they want Accomplishments for better.

I am blamed by many for divulging these Secrets, and again commended by others for my Love and Charity in so doing; but however I am better satisfied with imparting them, than to let them die with me; and if I do not live to have the Comfort of your Thanks, yet I hope it will cause you to speak well of me when I am dead: The Books which before this I have caused to be put in Print, found so good an acceptance, as that I shall still go on in imparting what I yet have so fast as I can.

Now to begin with the Ordering those things named to you:

If it be but a private Dinner or Supper in a n.o.ble House, where they have none to honour above themselves, I presume it may be thus:

In Summer time, when the Meat is all taken away, you may present your several sorts of Cream Cheeses; One Meal one Dish of Cream of one sort, the next of another; one or two Scollop Dishes with several sorts of Fruit, which if it be small fruit, as Rasps or Strawberries, they must be first washed in Wine in a Dish or Bason, and taken up between two Spoons, that you touch them not.

With them you may serve three or four small Dishes also with Sweet-meats, such as are most in season, with Vine Leaves and Flowers between the Dishes and the Plates, two wet Sweet-meats, and two dry, two of one colour, and two of another, or all of several colours.

Also a Dish of Jellies of several colours in one Dish, if such be required.

If any be left, you may melt them again, and put them into lesser Gla.s.ses, and they will be for another time:

If any dry ones be left, they are soon put into the Boxes again.

If any persons come in the afternoon, if no greater, or so great as the Person who entertains them, then you may present one or two Dishes of Cream only, and a whipt Sillibub, or other, with about four Dishes of Sweet-meats served in, in like manner as at Dinner, with Dishes of Fruit, and some kind of Wine of your own making; at Evenings, especially on Fasting Days at Night, it is fit to present some pretty kind of Creams, contrary from those at Dinner, or instead of them some Possets, or other fine Spoon Meats, which may be pleasant to the taste, with some wet and dry Sweet-meats, and some of your fine Drinks, what may be most pleasing.

At a Feast, you may present these things following.

So soon as the Meat is quite taken away, have in readiness your Cream Cheeses of several sorts and of several of Colours upon a Salver, then some fresh Cheese with Wine and Sugar, another Dish of Clouted Cream, and a Noch with Cabbage Cream of several Colours like a Cabbage; then all sorts of Fruits in season, set forth as followeth:

First, You must have a large Salver made of light kind of Wood, that it may not be too heavy for the Servitor to carry, it must be painted over, and large enough to hold six Plates round about and one larger one in the middle, there must be places made in it to set the Plates in, that they may be very fast and sure from sliding, and that in the middle the seat must be much higher than all the rest, because that is most graceful; your Plates must not be so broad as the Trencher Plates at Meat, and should be either of Silver or China.

Set your Plates fast, then fill every one with several sorts of Fruits, and the biggest sort in the middle, you must lay them in very good order, and pile them up till one more will not lie; then stick them with little green Sprigs and fine Flowers, such as you fancy best; then serve in another such Salver, with Plates piled up with all manner of Sweet-meats, the wet Sweet-meats round about and the dry in the middle, your wet Sweet-meats must be in little gla.s.ses that you may set the more on, and between every two gla.s.ses another above the first of all, and one on the top of them all; you must put of all sorts of dryed Sweet-meats in the middle Plate, first your biggest and then your lesser, till you can lay no more; then stick them all with Flowers and serve them: And in the Bason of Water you send in to wash the Hands or Fingers of n.o.ble Persons, you must put in some Orange Flower Water, which is very rare and very pleasant.

In Winter you must alter, as to the season, but serve all in this manner; and then dryed Fruits will also be very acceptable; as dryed Pears and Pippins, Candied Oranges and Limons, Citrons and Eringoes, Blanched Almonds, Prunelles, Figs, Raisins, Pistachoes and Blanched Walnuts.

_FINIS._

The CONTENTS of the First Part.

A.