A Journey to America in 1834 Part 5

FRIDAY, JULY 4TH.

Rose soon after six in expectation of finding out my old friend R. M.; rather disappointed to find from the innkeeper who is an Irishman, that the Monks were dispersed, only one remaining in the neighbourhood. He offered to walk with me to make further enquiry. At daybreak the drums announced the Day of Independence, which I find is to be celebrated in an extraordinary manner at Frankford. A half-brother of Richard Monks was sent for by the innkeeper; by him I learned the melancholy news of his brother's death which happened in Sept. 1832. He had left Lexington and settled at Louisville 3 or 4 months, then bought the half of a brother's estate opposite Troy on the Ohio; there his daughter married and settled at ----. Another son at Louisville keeping a coffee house.

Walked with Mr. Monks to the College and heard two orations, vehement and abusive of the old country, lauding France and even Spain, the latter on account of Isabella who patronized Columbus, eulogised Bonaparte and declaimed against Russia for the treatment of the Poles; several negroes were peeping at the three doorways, but not allowed to enter or even to listen to an oration in favour of liberty.

Paid 5-1/2 dollars to Louisville. At home I am considered a quick eater, but here I have not half done before most have left the room. A gentleman I met here said the labour of the negroes in Louisiana cultivating sugar was excessive, so that the women have hardly any children. A factory 5 yards by 8, two storeys, 4 windows on one side, turned by three miserable blind horses. Disappointed that R. Monks'

brother did not call, as he kept me waiting all afternoon. Slept two or three hours till the stage left at 12.

SAt.u.r.dAY, JULY 5TH.

Awakened at half past eleven luckily; only two pa.s.sengers but these took special care of themselves, lying along the seat sleeping all the way.

The road exceedingly rough, so as to prevent me having a minute's sleep.

Arrived at Frankford at six A.M., a very crowded inn. Never saw more drinking going on, all sorts of spirits, etc.; broken gla.s.s on the floor and an immense spitting box. A good road most of the way, limestone macadamised. A good many beech trees with some vines as thick as my leg climbing to the top. Only two pa.s.sengers from Frankford and an agreeable breeze, so that I could not have done better in my own carriage. On coming out of Frankford we pa.s.sed over a high old crazy bridge; changeable weather, thunder and rain and still very oppressively hot between the gleams. Arrived at Louisville 1/4 past five P.M. and felt less tired considering that I had not been in any bed but moving on for some days. Went to enquire for Mr. Hulme but found the ca.n.a.l office two miles off, therefore set about to find young Monks, but could learn nothing till I called at the Post Office where I got the information.

Took coffee, then called upon him. Found him very busy supplying with spirits, and gave him Mr. Brandreth's letter and promised to call again when he was not so busy. Retired to bed at half past eight.

SUNDAY, JULY 6TH.

Rose half past six, dream about my dear father; got a good breakfast with plenty of good milk. Took a hack to Mr. Hulme, at the ca.n.a.l office, for which I paid 25 cents. Heard Mr. H. was at Louisville but expected immediately as they were repairing one of the locks. Shewn through a very large steamer, the _Mediterranean_, 600 tons capable of 800, and boilers 250 tons, consumes 36 tons of wood daily, sometimes goes to New Orleans in five days, 1500 miles.

Attended the Unitarian Church and heard an eloquent and very unusual discourse from 1 Tim. 2 ch. and 4 verse by Mr. Pierpoint; all the tunes known to me. On coming away I heard a very noisy preacher, a Revivalist, the man with me in the stage yesterday; a plain, poor chapel, the poor blacks in the galleries. After the sermon and singing several times, they were invited into the Church; about 8 or 10 G.o.dly women and children enrolled themselves. Called upon young Monks, had a pleasant chat and afterwards a walk along the esplanade. The ca.n.a.l is cut 2 miles through rock to avoid the falls. Came over the ground where a young man had been murdered, two out of four persons were found guilty and ordered to be executed in a month. Heard Mr. Pierpoint again this evening from the text "Pure religion and undefiled," the very best sermon I ever heard--religion a science of duties, as we stand related to each other, head, heart and hands; the Lord's Prayer if changed into synonymous language would be designated only a good moral sermon.

Saw Mr. Hulme this evening.

MONDAY, JULY 7TH.

Perspired much in the night; got up and dried myself with a towel; not much alarmed as my pulse strong and regular; perhaps it beats high in the thought that I am now at the most distant point from home.

Mr. Hulme called upon me and walked towards the steam boats; presented me with a chart of the Ohio. Called upon Joseph Monks, he sat with me on the steamer, then left and sent me six bottles of cyder. I promised him to write about their family. Left at 12 instead of 10. The table drawn out in a curious manner, a snack consisting of tongue, ham, almonds and raisins. Dined about half past one.

A long political debate in which a poor Jacksonian came off sadly worsted; considerable commercial knowledge displayed, but evidently too speculative a spirit, and consequently credit much thought of. At six took some coffee of which I am never tired. So hot that I pulled off my coat and handkerchief. The evening very pleasant--sparks from the chimney enough to fire the boat, this nearly the case with the _Mediterranean_ the large steamer I saw yesterday. A grand sky, beautifully reflected on the Ohio; millions of sparks from the boilers with flashes of lightning, afterwards almost one continued blaze with much thunder.

TUESDAY, JULY 8TH.

Rose at four having rested tolerably only; felt a weakness in the small of my back; breakfasted on coffee without milk, excepting a little given me by one of the pa.s.sengers. Paid for pa.s.sage 4 dollars including lunch, dinner, supper and breakfast. Found the sparks last night had burnt into the deck. Agreed with a fellow to carry my portmanteau to the _Erin_, another steamer for 25 cents, his own terms, but found it uncertain when she was going, therefore ordered the baggage to the hotel on the brow.

The man wanted more but was silenced by the innkeeper who said it was enough for all day. Arrived at Cincinnati at eight A.M.

1500 hams hung up in one room plastered over with lime. A large foundry, 8 oxen drawing one tree. At one the mail came up going to Wheeling. Paid 6 dollars to Columbus; n.o.body but a French woman and her child for ten miles. Here at Reading whilst changing horses I got some most excellent bread, b.u.t.ter and milk for which I paid 12-1/2 cents. This seems a better conveyance than the old crazy steamer. Took a cup of b.u.t.termilk for which they would not receive anything. A truly corduroy road, that is logs of wood laid across the road. Nearly upset into the river by running against a tree. Arrived at Lebanon 1/4 before 7. This last stage to Wainville, the driver drove most furiously and the horses went like mad. Why should tin drop-spouts be used instead of wood or lead? Almost everywhere the footpaths in the streets are paved with bricks.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 9TH.

Got to Springfield at half past five, a restless trembling night; such roads and such furious driving as enough to break arms and legs, through pits of water after the logs failed. Pretty good land divided into small farms, woods rather than forests; rather flat and the road bad and muddy, still worse, exceeding any I ever saw and yet this is called a national road. Well there were no other pa.s.sengers or we should have been hauled out. Got to Columbus, it was the last twenty miles, all mud, so that we could only walk most of the way. Coming into Columbus such a flood that fields of corn are spoiled, and the road, half a yard of granite washed away; the old bridge also washed away so that we had to be ferried. Paid to Wheeling 6-1/2 dollars. At the next stage I was informed my name was not entered as having paid my fare. During the night the coach stopt and I and the other pa.s.sengers were desired to get out, the horses were completely set fast in the mud; after resting some time they made a further effort; we scrambled through the mud and got in; very surprising that the roads are not better protected by railing or walls, not even over the mountains or ridges.

THURSDAY, JULY 10TH.

Pa.s.sed a nicely situated little town called Rushott at five. Only two pa.s.sengers, therefore able to sleep pretty well. Arrived at Zanesville half past six, the last stage beautifully macadamised. Sour bread and poor coffee. Got them to allow my name to be entered for Wheeling as paid for. Arrived at Cambridge at twelve. The driver managed the drag chain by treading upon an iron lever. The last 20 miles very hilly. A large waggon drawn by horses with sets of bells. After walking I found the coach nearly filled so that I got on with the driver. Observed some coal breaking out on the top of one of the high hills; this is generally the case so that they tunnel out from the valleys and are not troubled with water. Arrived at this side of the Ohio 1/4 past nine P.M., too late to be ferried across, so that after taking the mail at Cincinnati at one o'clock to arrive at Wheeling in 48 hours, here, after 56 hours we are obliged to stop in a poor inn, and to take a bed with four others in the same room. These are the miseries of travelling; delays upon the road, especially being confined a day or two in some little uninteresting spot--so far, however, I have been pretty fortunate, and should not complain, but like all poor unreasonable mortals, the more we have, the more we wish to have. The last stage or two very hilly, covered as usual with forest. This I believe is the character of the country on both sides of the Ohio.

FRIDAY, JULY 11TH.

Rose soon after four and ferried across the Ohio in two places in consequence of an island; the ferry impelled across by means of a windla.s.s letting down frame work into the water, and altering the position of the boat. When arrived at Wheeling hotel could hear of no boat till evening. Went again to bed; got up at nine, felt a little earache and not much appet.i.te for breakfast, occasioned by disappointment at the delay. At one dined with improved appet.i.te and actually eat an apple dumpling. Sat and read several newspapers without finding much from England; then read some good letters in the "North American Magazine"; felt in better spirits.

Took my place for Pittsburg, 3 dollars, visited a collection of wild beasts; amused by a monkey riding a Shetland pony, but most gratified by seeing a rhinoceros and elephant each four years old; the former had worn his teeth very much; both feed chiefly upon hay. The keeper puts his head twice a day into the lion's mouth, dangerous only as far as the animal being disturbed by some of the spectators. A camel or dromedary (only one hump) also four years old. Sailed from Wheeling 1/4 past seven; the evening most delightful, the air warm and fragrant, the sky remarkably clear; the stars and moon appeared nearer. Found from conversation with the Captain and others that Tuesday or Wednesday have been considered very warm, also more thunder and lightning than they had often seen.

SAt.u.r.dAY, JULY 12TH.

Rose at two, got into the stage at Steubenville, at three the coach quite full; ferried across the Ohio; pa.s.sed through Paris; the country is very hilly and the soil poor. Stopped at Florence to breakfast, the remainder of the way hilly. On approaching Pittsburgh reminded of home by the coal and smoke; arrived at one o'clock. More than twenty steamers lying in the river, here the Ohio is joined by the Alleghany, the latter a much clearer river. In the stage met with an intelligent young man on his way to Erie, so concluded to stop at the same hotel. Paid to Wa.s.son (?) half way to Erie 3 dollars. Walked to some iron works and saw them make rails very quickly, also some cannon boring. Walked across the aqueduct 400 yards long, cost 112,000 dollars. Called at the Post Office, but again disappointed.

Very sultry this evening, and I feel as if not likely to sleep; this is one of the depressing periods. After coffee I took a walk to the Catholic Church situated on an eminence. Pittsburgh is in a valley surrounded on all sides by verdant hills, and smoky as one of our English towns. This evening is so serene that the moon does not appear half its usual distance from the earth. Feel much relieved and refreshed by the walk and meditation. The first fence I had seen is here, and this by way of protecting the road, also the first time I had seen any horses' tails docked.

SUNDAY, JULY 13TH.

Got up at half past four: the stage nearly full. Observed almost the first potatoes in this neighbourhood. Crossed the Alleghany by means of a steam ferry. Paid for breakfast 25 cents. Arrived at Butler at one; hilly most of the way; a good many Dutch settlers in this part. Several large ant hills. Paid for the dinner, very good veal cutlets and excellent coffee, only 25 cents, the cheapest dinner I have had in America. The interesting young man mentioned yesterday is a Mr. Kennedy, a painter at Meadville, a Presbyterian; said they had in their town a Mr. Channing, an Unitarian and nephew to Dr. C. but not considered so clever. The coach we travelled in to-day is almost new, cost 520 dollars; this day fortnight in crossing the creek this side the Alleghany River, it was washed down the stream nearly half a mile rolling over all that way; only one pa.s.senger and the driver remained with it, and both escaped; had all the other pa.s.sengers remained in, it is supposed the accident would not have happened. More like a Sabbath evening, the people seated at their log houses reading. The moon very splendid and apparently much nearer the earth than with us in England.

Paid for the remainder of my pa.s.sage to Erie 3 dollars; also for tea 25 cents.

MONDAY, JULY 14TH.

Pa.s.sed a very restless night, scarcely sleeping at all. One of the pa.s.sengers sick and he feared it was the cholera. This made me feel uncomfortable and I wished to sit with the driver, but was deterred by being told of Kennedy's brother, who had the year before fallen from the same stage and been killed on the spot, supposed to have been asleep.

Got to Meadville situated on the rising part of an extended vale. Here I parted with Mr. K. and his sick companion who is a paper maker. An old intelligent Irishman who had come out thirty years ago, and had done very well, was one of the pa.s.sengers; he spoke of his domestic afflictions and particularly the death of his wife. Very warm but luckily only 4 pa.s.sengers. The last drive of 15 miles has been very warm and a rough road, yet the horses do not appear much distressed; got a gla.s.s of b.u.t.termilk. Dined at Waterford; paid 25 cents. The stage filled; the sun had got to my side of the coach; a slow drive and choked with dust, by far the most disagreeable ride I have had. Got to Erie at half past four, told there was no boat to Buffalo till morning. I went upstairs to wash and put on a clean s.h.i.+rt, and was then informed of a boat, but I could not get ready in time; though perhaps it was only a trick of the innkeeper, it may be as well to get a good night's repose; without now and then a check I should in uninteresting places be hurrying on too fast and knock myself up. Fell in with a pleasing intelligent young man; now that they were out of debt I said they might improve the public roads--he said grants were occasionally made, but were objected to as unconst.i.tutional.

TUESDAY, JULY 15TH.

Got up at half past six, felt restored and now think it better than pus.h.i.+ng on in the steamboat last night. The young man confirmed the old Irishman's account of the student at Meadville, viz. that the young one we had seen would be at his studies in the morning, and in the afternoon discharge his board by working as a blacksmith. Accompanied on board the steamer by the innkeeper; found the wind favourable; sailed soon after 8 A.M. not a nice boat and the engine out of order, so that we shall be late before we get into Buffalo. Read in a periodical belonging to one of the pa.s.sengers a terrible story written by Lord Morpeth. A most delightful breeze on the lake; how different to yesterday when stewed on the coach and covered with dust. Had some good singing on board by Methodists; got out at Portland and had a most delicious bath before dinner. Called at Dunkirk, also at Silver Creek; prevailed upon the ladies (Methodists) to sing again; paid for pa.s.sage two dollars and 1/2 for dinner. Read a good deal in the "Temperance Intelligencer," in which a correspondent attempted to prove that the wine approved in Scripture was not fermented; another disapproves of the use of cyder and recommends the cutting down of apple trees. Landed at Buffalo at 8 P.M.

a very pleasant sail. Some trouble in getting my portmanteau to the inn; an offer from Irishmen who did not know the place. Here informed of a change in the English Ministry.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 16TH.

Rose at six and felt somewhat languid, having never I suppose had time for such feelings. No walking in America; taken down by stages to the boats however short the distance. Bought a pennyworth of cracked hickory nuts. A delightful breeze. Met on the steamer an English gentleman, his lady and child. Set off in a stage and left Buffalo at eleven A.M.; found it a pleasant drive mostly along the banks of the river. Arrived at Niagara soon after four P.M. Immediately set off to the Falls; engaged till nearly seven without thinking of food, though I had eaten nothing since six this morning. Much struck with the Bridge over the Rapids to the Goat Island. Then walked towards the ferry, an immense sheet of water though only a small part compared with the Horse Shoe; returned and crossed over to Goat Island down Biddle's Staircase between the two cascades; afterwards to the bridge that overhangs the tremendous Fall, a huge piece of rock below occasionally visible when the foam was blown away; the vast clouds of mist rising very considerably into the air, and the stream for a great distance as white as milk. Ascended the tower[17], whence there is a more extensive view of the Rapids above as well as the river below. Again, after tea I went over the same ground and had a moonlight view of this most wonderful spectacle.

THURSDAY, JULY 17TH.

Rose before six, again visited the Falls. Left soon after eight; paid the porter 12-1/2 cents, but he wanted more for cleaning my shoes. A favourable pa.s.sage across as the wind blew the spray upwards; the water in parts much agitated; the ferryman demanded six cents extra for my baggage; n.o.body to carry it forward up the hill to the hotel; a man who came in the boat offered to carry it for 50 cents; this I refused and set off with it myself. I had not carried it more than two-thirds up the hill before I repented; the man came up and agreed for 25 cents; as it proved further than I expected I gave him a gla.s.s in addition. After changing my flannel s.h.i.+rt and getting a gla.s.s of milk I set off to the Falls, found a party going under the cascade; undressed and put on trousers, an oil-case jacket with a belt and a pair of rough shoes, and descended the staircase. There were two ladies but they were placed under the care of the guide. The rock projects amazingly, the path is narrow and rather slippery being constantly wet with the spray; at one place we were told to keep our heads down and hold our breath. I must say it proved more of an adventure than I expected; it resembled a tremendous shower of rain blown at us with the utmost fury; nothing much is to be seen, and I scarcely think it worth the trouble; the visit might be rendered much safer by means of a chain fastened alongside of the rock. A more irregular confused hotel, I never was in. Walked to the Falls alone by moonlight.

FRIDAY, JULY 18TH.

Rose half past five; paid six cents for shoes; walked to the Fall, still more magnificent than ever; green where there is most water; the whole Horseshoe filled with vapour rising a vast height, and at the bottom the water is rolled away one complete ma.s.s of foam, white as snow, too dazzling to behold; the spray rises in beautiful clouds and falls in gentle drops nearly a mile off. Paid for Niagara one dollar. Left at eleven, called to see the Whirlpool formed by the river going into a bay; then Brock's monument 170 steps; giving a fine view of the lake.

Allowed 2-1/2 dollars for book and map. The stage gave way on going out, found the leather spring had broken, but we managed to go on slowly to Niagara. Bathed in Lake Ontario, then dined for 50 cents. Found one of our pa.s.sengers to be Major Penn, who had been a good while in the East Indies and other parts of the world; also a young Irishman, a Canadian and an American. Sailed 1/4 before six; arrived at York at half past nine, went on sh.o.r.e to buy "The Tourist," and a map, but found the shops closed; returned and went to bed. The berths double and if fully occupied would be very disagreeable. Felt tired in the knee-joints, supposed from descending the staircase at the Falls and going up Brock's monument. Got a comfortable cup of tea, bread good, etc. Paid 6 dollars for pa.s.sage including board. More satisfaction here than waiting for the _Great Britain_ to-morrow; our pa.s.sengers only about 8 or 10 and the cabin s.p.a.cious and neat.