The Dumpling_ A Seasonal Guide Part 10

Black Sesame Roll-Ups Hei Zi Ma Juan (China) (China) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 16 16 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Hei zi ma juan is a mildly sweet dessert or snack dumpling with an inky black color and a pure sesame flavor. This dumpling is steamed in thin sheets, rolled up into a log, and then cut into large, bite-sized pieces. When you bite into a piece of is a mildly sweet dessert or snack dumpling with an inky black color and a pure sesame flavor. This dumpling is steamed in thin sheets, rolled up into a log, and then cut into large, bite-sized pieces. When you bite into a piece of hei zi ma juan, hei zi ma juan, you can feel the layers pop softly inside your mouth as you relish the coa.r.s.e yet tender texture of the ground sesame seeds. you can feel the layers pop softly inside your mouth as you relish the coa.r.s.e yet tender texture of the ground sesame seeds.

For the Dumplings1/3 cup black sesame seeds (do not subst.i.tute with white sesame seeds) cup black sesame seeds (do not subst.i.tute with white sesame seeds)2/3 cup sugar cup sugar cup water chestnut flour or rice flour, preferably from China or Thailand cup tapioca flour (tapioca starch)Pinch of saltFor CookingToasted sesame oil or a neutral oil, such as grapeseed, to coat the cake panEquipmentClean spice or coffee grinder2-inch-high steamer rack9-inch square cake panPot large enough to hold both the rack and the pan when covered 1. Toast the black sesame seeds in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring continuously, for 2 minutes. Immediately move them to a small bowl to cool. Finely grind in the spice grinder. Toast the black sesame seeds in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring continuously, for 2 minutes. Immediately move them to a small bowl to cool. Finely grind in the spice grinder.

2. Combine the ground sesame seeds, sugar, water chestnut flour, tapioca flour, and salt in a medium heatproof bowl. Combine the ground sesame seeds, sugar, water chestnut flour, tapioca flour, and salt in a medium heatproof bowl.

3. Place the steamer rack inside the pot. Keeping the cake pan level is key for such a thin batter, so take the time now to check for any tilts or leanings with your pot or rack, and try to even things out as best you can. Add 1 inches of water to the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, rub a little sesame oil around the inside of the cake pan. Place the steamer rack inside the pot. Keeping the cake pan level is key for such a thin batter, so take the time now to check for any tilts or leanings with your pot or rack, and try to even things out as best you can. Add 1 inches of water to the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, rub a little sesame oil around the inside of the cake pan.

4. Heat 1 cups water in a small saucepan over medium heat until it is hot to the touch but not close to simmering. Pour the water into the sesame mixture and stir until there are no clumps. Immediately measure out cup and pour it into the prepared cake pan. Wiggle the pan until the batter spreads out evenly. Heat 1 cups water in a small saucepan over medium heat until it is hot to the touch but not close to simmering. Pour the water into the sesame mixture and stir until there are no clumps. Immediately measure out cup and pour it into the prepared cake pan. Wiggle the pan until the batter spreads out evenly.

5. Carefully place the pan on the steamer rack, cover, and steam for 5 minutes. This watery batter will cook up to a texture similar to a firm jelly. Carefully place the pan on the steamer rack, cover, and steam for 5 minutes. This watery batter will cook up to a texture similar to a firm jelly.

6. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully lift the pan out of the pot, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the sesame sheet to cool for about 2 minutes, or until cool enough to handle. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully lift the pan out of the pot, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the sesame sheet to cool for about 2 minutes, or until cool enough to handle.

7. Working from any side of the pan, use your fingers to nudge an edge free and roll the thin sesame sheet up into a log, jelly-roll style. Next, trim off the uneven ends. Cut the log into 4 equal pieces and place them on a large plate seam side down. Be sure to stir and remix the remaining batter just before measuring out each batch. Serve the Working from any side of the pan, use your fingers to nudge an edge free and roll the thin sesame sheet up into a log, jelly-roll style. Next, trim off the uneven ends. Cut the log into 4 equal pieces and place them on a large plate seam side down. Be sure to stir and remix the remaining batter just before measuring out each batch. Serve the hei zi ma juan hei zi ma juan at room temperature. at room temperature. Hei zi ma juan Hei zi ma juan can be kept tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Allow them to come back to room temperature before serving. can be kept tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Allow them to come back to room temperature before serving.

Lemony Lentil-Chard Soup with Bulgur Dumplings Kibbet Raheb (Lebanon) (Lebanon) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 32 32 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Chewy, nutty-tasting bulgur dumplings are what make this lentil soup so unusual. Bulgur is a form of cracked wheat and it will feel grainy and unworkable when you start making the dough, but it comes together beautifully as you gradually work in more flour. Because there is a fair amount of lemon juice in this soup, the darker flavors of the lentils, bulgur, and chard become zesty and vivid, making it as refres.h.i.+ng as it is nouris.h.i.+ng.

For the Soup3 tablespoons olive oil1 medium yellow onion, chopped fine2 garlic cloves, chopped very fine cup finely chopped fresh cilantro stems and leaves1/3 cup fresh lemon juice cup fresh lemon juice1 cup dried brown or green lentils, rinsed1 small bunch chard, stemmed and cut into 1-inch ribbons2 teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepperFor the Dumplings cup finely ground bulgur teaspoon salt cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting 1. MAKE THE SOUP MAKE THE SOUP: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and stir frequently until the onion is soft, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and mix in the cilantro. Pour the lemon juice into a bowl. Measure out Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and stir frequently until the onion is soft, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and mix in the cilantro. Pour the lemon juice into a bowl. Measure out 1 1/3 cup of the onion mixture and set aside. Add the rest to the lemon juice, mix well, and set aside. cup of the onion mixture and set aside. Add the rest to the lemon juice, mix well, and set aside.

2. Fill a medium pot with 7 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the lentils, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the chard, 2 teaspoons salt, and the pepper and cook for 15 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and set aside until you are ready to add the dumplings. Fill a medium pot with 7 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the lentils, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the chard, 2 teaspoons salt, and the pepper and cook for 15 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and set aside until you are ready to add the dumplings.

3. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: While the soup is simmering, place While the soup is simmering, place 1 1/3 cup water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat, stir in the bulgur, cover, and steep until all the water has been absorbed, about 1 minute. Scoop the bulgur into a medium bowl and mix in the cup water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat, stir in the bulgur, cover, and steep until all the water has been absorbed, about 1 minute. Scoop the bulgur into a medium bowl and mix in the 1 1/3 cup onion mixture and the teaspoon salt. Cover and refrigerate for 15 minutes. cup onion mixture and the teaspoon salt. Cover and refrigerate for 15 minutes.

4. Mix 2 tablespoons of the flour into the chilled bulgur mixture and work the dough into one manageable ball. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If the dough is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. Mix 2 tablespoons of the flour into the chilled bulgur mixture and work the dough into one manageable ball. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If the dough is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time.

5. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

6. Pinch off a very small piece of dough, roll it into a ball about inch around, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough. Pinch off a very small piece of dough, roll it into a ball about inch around, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough.

7. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Bring the soup back to a simmer over medium heat. Carefully drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the soup. Stir gently, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 20 minutes. Stir in the lemon and onion mixture just before serving. Bring the soup back to a simmer over medium heat. Carefully drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the soup. Stir gently, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 20 minutes. Stir in the lemon and onion mixture just before serving.

Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce Ravioli di Pesce (Italy) (Italy) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES ABOUT 40 40 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

In this recipe, the poaching liquid of the fish is turned into a delicious and light sauce for the dumplings. Sole is a standard choice, but just about any flaky, white-fleshed fish will do. Mixing some chopped anchovies into the filling is a quick way to strengthen the flavor, no matter what fish you use. If filleting a whole fish, be sure to add the head and the bones into the poaching liquid for an even richer flavor.

For the Dough1 cups Italian "type 00" pasta flour, or cup unbleached all-purpose flour mixed with cup cake flour, plus some extra for dusting3 large eggs, plus 1 large egg yolk1 teaspoon olive oilFor the Poaching Liquid cup white wine2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice2 garlic cloves, sliced thin4 fresh thyme sprigs3 fresh marjoram sprigs teaspoon saltFor the Filling4 small white-fleshed fish fillets, such as sole, flounder, or turbot (about 1 pound)1 large egg yolk teaspoon grated lemon zest2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepperFor the Sauce4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks2 garlic cloves, chopped very fine2 salt-packed or oil-packed anchovy fillets, rinsed if salt-packed, chopped fine1 plum tomato, peeled, seeded (see Glossary of Ingredients), and coa.r.s.ely chopped cup heavy cream1 tablespoon coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leavesEquipment2-inch round cookie cutterLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place about 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Mix in the eggs and yolk with a fork until all the egg has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Place about 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Mix in the eggs and yolk with a fork until all the egg has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

2. Place the dough on a flat work surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. The dough will be smooth and somewhat firm. Return the dough ball to the bowl and brush the surface with the oil. Cover with a damp towel and let it rest for at least 20 minutes before using. Place the dough on a flat work surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. The dough will be smooth and somewhat firm. Return the dough ball to the bowl and brush the surface with the oil. Cover with a damp towel and let it rest for at least 20 minutes before using.

3. POACH THE FISH POACH THE FISH: Pour the wine and cup water into a medium pot or a large skillet with a cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the lemon juice, sliced garlic, thyme, marjoram, and teaspoon salt. Pour the wine and cup water into a medium pot or a large skillet with a cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the lemon juice, sliced garlic, thyme, marjoram, and teaspoon salt.

4. Slide the fillets into the simmering liquid, cover, and cook for 5 minutes. Carefully remove the fillets from the broth with a slotted spoon or a spatula, place them in a shallow bowl, and set them aside until cool enough to handle. Strain the poaching liquid through a sieve into a bowl, then measure out 1 cup for the sauce. Slide the fillets into the simmering liquid, cover, and cook for 5 minutes. Carefully remove the fillets from the broth with a slotted spoon or a spatula, place them in a shallow bowl, and set them aside until cool enough to handle. Strain the poaching liquid through a sieve into a bowl, then measure out 1 cup for the sauce.

5. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Flake apart the fillets. Add the egg yolk, lemon zest, 2 tablespoons parsley, teaspoon salt, and the pepper and mix well with a fork. Cover and keep refrigerated while you roll out the dough. Flake apart the fillets. Add the egg yolk, lemon zest, 2 tablespoons parsley, teaspoon salt, and the pepper and mix well with a fork. Cover and keep refrigerated while you roll out the dough.

6. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Also have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Also have ready the dough and the filling.

7. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds.

8. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 16 to 20. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 16 to 20. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine.

9. Lay flat 4 to 8 dough rounds. Brush half of them with a little water to make them sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each dampened round. Top each spoonful of filling with an unbrushed round, creating little sandwiches. Pinch the edges of the rounds together, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and seal. If desired, trim or crimp the edges for a more tailored look. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Lay flat 4 to 8 dough rounds. Brush half of them with a little water to make them sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each dampened round. Top each spoonful of filling with an unbrushed round, creating little sandwiches. Pinch the edges of the rounds together, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and seal. If desired, trim or crimp the edges for a more tailored look. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling.

10. Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place them in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place them in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft.

11. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Gently drop half of the dumplings, a few at a time, into the water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Gently drop half of the dumplings, a few at a time, into the water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer.

12. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent them from sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings, place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid, and keep warm. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent them from sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings, place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid, and keep warm.

13. MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Stir in the chopped garlic and the anchovies and cook for 1 minute. Carefully and quickly pour the reserved cup of poaching liquid into the pan. Simmer until the sauce has reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, add the tomato, and swirl in the cream. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Stir in the chopped garlic and the anchovies and cook for 1 minute. Carefully and quickly pour the reserved cup of poaching liquid into the pan. Simmer until the sauce has reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, add the tomato, and swirl in the cream.

14. Drain the ravioli and place them in the simmering sauce. Shake the pan until the ravioli are well coated and heated through. Remove from the heat, sprinkle with 1 tablespoon parsley, and serve. Drain the ravioli and place them in the simmering sauce. Shake the pan until the ravioli are well coated and heated through. Remove from the heat, sprinkle with 1 tablespoon parsley, and serve.

Sticky Rice Dumplings Stuffed with Pork and Shrimp Banh It Tran (Vietnam) (Vietnam) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES ABOUT 20 20 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

As with Banh Beo Banh Beo (recipe follows), these rice flour dumplings balance several flavors, from the savory and sweet pork-and-shrimp filling to the sweet and tart fish sauce they are dipped in. The dough is made with a sweet (glutinous) rice flour that gets very sticky as it cooks, so lining the steamer basket with lettuce leaves is essential. (recipe follows), these rice flour dumplings balance several flavors, from the savory and sweet pork-and-shrimp filling to the sweet and tart fish sauce they are dipped in. The dough is made with a sweet (glutinous) rice flour that gets very sticky as it cooks, so lining the steamer basket with lettuce leaves is essential.

These dumplings are made using the Bowl Fold.

For the Filling cup dried peeled mung beans10 raw medium shrimp, peeled, deveined, and kept on ice2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil1 large shallot, chopped fine1 garlic clove, chopped very fine pound boneless pork b.u.t.t or shoulder, chopped fine1 teaspoon sugar teaspoon salt1 teaspoon fish sauce, preferably from VietnamFor the Dough2 cups sweet (glutinous) rice flour, preferably from Vietnam or Thailand, plus some extra for dusting1 cup warm waterFor the Topping*1 tablespoon grapeseed or other neutral oil2 scallions, sliced thin into rings1 recipe Sweet, Sour, and Spicy Fish Sauce (recipe follows)For Cooking and ServingSoft lettuce leaves, such as Boston, to line the steamer basket and the serving plateEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Place the mung beans in a small saucepan, pour in enough water to cover them by 1 inch, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cover and cook until the beans are very soft, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain, place the beans in a medium bowl, and mash them with a fork until mostly smooth. Place the mung beans in a small saucepan, pour in enough water to cover them by 1 inch, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cover and cook until the beans are very soft, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain, place the beans in a medium bowl, and mash them with a fork until mostly smooth.

2. Finely chop the shrimp and set aside. Finely chop the shrimp and set aside.

3. Heat the 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot and garlic and stir until the shallot is soft, about 3 minutes. Mix in the mashed mung beans, the chopped shrimp, and the pork. As the pork begins to brown, break up any clumps with a wooden spoon. Add the sugar, salt, and fish sauce and stir frequently until the pork is golden brown, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop into a bowl, and set aside to cool. (You can also make the filling in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.) Heat the 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot and garlic and stir until the shallot is soft, about 3 minutes. Mix in the mashed mung beans, the chopped shrimp, and the pork. As the pork begins to brown, break up any clumps with a wooden spoon. Add the sugar, salt, and fish sauce and stir frequently until the pork is golden brown, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop into a bowl, and set aside to cool. (You can also make the filling in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.) 4. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place 2 cups of the rice flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Pour in the warm water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Knead the dough in the bowl for a minute. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. Place 2 cups of the rice flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Pour in the warm water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Knead the dough in the bowl for a minute. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time.

5. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the banh it tran, banh it tran, review the Bowl Fold. review the Bowl Fold.

6. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Have ready the dough and the filling.

7. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Keep the remaining dough covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Use your thumbs to shape it into a bowl about 1 inch deep. This will be a wide bowl that is best supported in the palm of your hand. Place a rounded tablespoon of filling in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Continue with the remaining dough and filling. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Keep the remaining dough covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Use your thumbs to shape it into a bowl about 1 inch deep. This will be a wide bowl that is best supported in the palm of your hand. Place a rounded tablespoon of filling in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Continue with the remaining dough and filling.

8. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and freeze the rest (see Tips). Keep the dumplings you are planning to cook in the refrigerator on a plate or tray, covered with a kitchen towel, until it's time to steam them. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and freeze the rest (see Tips). Keep the dumplings you are planning to cook in the refrigerator on a plate or tray, covered with a kitchen towel, until it's time to steam them.

9. MAKE THE SCALLION TOPPING MAKE THE SCALLION TOPPING: Heat the 1 tablespoon oil in a small skillet over medium heat and add the scallions. Stir until the scallions are just beginning to brown, about 1 minute. Immediately remove from the heat, scoop into a bowl, and set aside. Heat the 1 tablespoon oil in a small skillet over medium heat and add the scallions. Stir until the scallions are just beginning to brown, about 1 minute. Immediately remove from the heat, scoop into a bowl, and set aside.

10. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 1 inch of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the basket with lettuce leaves. Arrange as many dumplings in the basket as you can, s.p.a.cing them about inch apart. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 1 inch of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the basket with lettuce leaves. Arrange as many dumplings in the basket as you can, s.p.a.cing them about inch apart. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 6 to 8 minutes.

11. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Arrange a few lettuce leaves on a plate. Use a spoon or a small spatula to move the dumplings to the prepared plate. Sprinkle fried scallions over each, then drizzle them with a little Sweet, Sour, and Spicy Fish Sauce. Serve immediately while you cook any remaining dumplings. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Arrange a few lettuce leaves on a plate. Use a spoon or a small spatula to move the dumplings to the prepared plate. Sprinkle fried scallions over each, then drizzle them with a little Sweet, Sour, and Spicy Fish Sauce. Serve immediately while you cook any remaining dumplings.

SWEET, SOUR, AND SPICY FISH SAUCE.

MAKES ABOUT CUP CUP.

1 garlic clove, chopped coa.r.s.e2 small hot red chiles, such as Hanoi Red, cored, seeded, and chopped coa.r.s.e2 tablespoons sugar1 small hot red chile, such as Hanoi Red, stemmed and sliced into thin rings2 tablespoons rice vinegar or coconut vinegar1 tablespoon fish sauce, preferably from Vietnam ime or lemonEquipmentMortar and pestle Pound the garlic and the chopped chiles in the mortar with the pestle until well mashed, then scoop it into a small bowl. Add the sugar, chile rings, vinegar, and 2 tablespoons water and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Stir in the fish sauce. Keep in a tightly sealed container for up to 1 month in the refrigerator. Squeeze the lime juice into the sauce just before serving.

Rice and Tapioca Dumplings Topped with Shrimp and Bean Paste Banh Beo (Vietnam) (Vietnam) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES 20 20 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

It takes very little batter to make 20 of these savory and absolutely delicious dumplings, which resemble small open-faced sandwiches or canapes. Shrimp, shallots, and mung bean paste top these soft, slightly gelatinous dumplings with a superb combination of flavors and textures.

For the Toppings pound fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined cup grapeseed or other neutral oil1/3 cup finely chopped shallot cup finely chopped shallot1/3 cup dried peeled mung beans cup dried peeled mung beans teaspoon salt1 recipe Sweet, Sour, and Spicy Fish Sauce (preceding recipe)1 scallion, sliced into thin rings1 to 2 small green chiles, such as a green Hanoi Red, stemmed, seeded if desired, and sliced into thin ringsFor the Dumplings2/3 cup white rice flour, preferably from Vietnam or Thailand cup white rice flour, preferably from Vietnam or Thailand1/3 cup tapioca flour (tapioca starch) cup tapioca flour (tapioca starch)Equipment8- to 10-quart steamer potFive to ten 2-inch-wide dipping bowls (see Glossary of Equipment) 1. MAKE THE SHRIMP TOPPING MAKE THE SHRIMP TOPPING: Add inch of water to a small pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the shrimp, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and place the shrimp under cool running water for a couple minutes. Coa.r.s.ely chop the shrimp, place in a food processor, and process into a very fine meal, about 4 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Add inch of water to a small pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the shrimp, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and place the shrimp under cool running water for a couple minutes. Coa.r.s.ely chop the shrimp, place in a food processor, and process into a very fine meal, about 4 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go.

2. Heat a medium skillet over low heat. Add the shrimp meal and cook, tossing and stirring continuously, until the shrimp is dry and fluffy but not brown, 4 to 6 minutes, depending on the moisture of the shrimp. Because the shrimp is being cooked without any added fat, some of the shrimp will stick to the pan, but by constantly tossing and sc.r.a.ping the bits off the bottom with a wooden spoon, you should be able to avoid any scorching. Scoop into a bowl and set aside. (You can also make the shrimp topping in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.) Heat a medium skillet over low heat. Add the shrimp meal and cook, tossing and stirring continuously, until the shrimp is dry and fluffy but not brown, 4 to 6 minutes, depending on the moisture of the shrimp. Because the shrimp is being cooked without any added fat, some of the shrimp will stick to the pan, but by constantly tossing and sc.r.a.ping the bits off the bottom with a wooden spoon, you should be able to avoid any scorching. Scoop into a bowl and set aside. (You can also make the shrimp topping in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.) 3. MAKE THE SHALLOT OIL AND THE MUNG BEAN TOPPING MAKE THE SHALLOT OIL AND THE MUNG BEAN TOPPING: Heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add shallot and stir frequently until soft, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop all of it into a bowl, and set aside. Heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add shallot and stir frequently until soft, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop all of it into a bowl, and set aside.

4. Place the mung beans in a small saucepan and pour in enough water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cover and cook until the beans are very soft, 20 to 30 minutes. Place the mung beans in a small saucepan and pour in enough water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cover and cook until the beans are very soft, 20 to 30 minutes.

5. Drain the mung beans over a bowl and reserve the cooking liquid. Process the beans into a smooth paste in a food processor, about 3 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. If the paste is too dry to process smoothly, work in some of the reserved cooking liquid, a little at a time, until you have an extremely smooth paste. Drain the mung beans over a bowl and reserve the cooking liquid. Process the beans into a smooth paste in a food processor, about 3 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. If the paste is too dry to process smoothly, work in some of the reserved cooking liquid, a little at a time, until you have an extremely smooth paste.

6. Sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the processor bowl and move all the paste onto a kitchen towel. Bring together the ends of the cloth and twist to squeeze out as much of the liquid as you can. The amount of liquid you are squeezing out won't be much and may simply be absorbed by the cloth. Sc.r.a.pe the paste into a small bowl and mix in the salt. Sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the processor bowl and move all the paste onto a kitchen towel. Bring together the ends of the cloth and twist to squeeze out as much of the liquid as you can. The amount of liquid you are squeezing out won't be much and may simply be absorbed by the cloth. Sc.r.a.pe the paste into a small bowl and mix in the salt.

7. Strain the shallot oil through a sieve into a small bowl and place the shallot in another small bowl. Mix 2 tablespoons of the shallot oil into the mung bean paste. The paste should be thick, creamy, and spreadable. If it's crumbly and stiff, mix in a little more oil. Set aside the shallot, the shallot oil, and the mung bean mixture. (You can make these toppings in advance and keep them tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 12 hours.) Strain the shallot oil through a sieve into a small bowl and place the shallot in another small bowl. Mix 2 tablespoons of the shallot oil into the mung bean paste. The paste should be thick, creamy, and spreadable. If it's crumbly and stiff, mix in a little more oil. Set aside the shallot, the shallot oil, and the mung bean mixture. (You can make these toppings in advance and keep them tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 12 hours.) 8. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Combine the rice flour and tapioca flour in a large heatproof bowl. Heat 1 cups water in a small saucepan over medium heat until it is hot to the touch but not close to simmering. Add the hot water to the flour mixture and whisk until there are no clumps in the batter. This is a very thin batter that will cook up to a texture similar to a smooth, dense jelly. Combine the rice flour and tapioca flour in a large heatproof bowl. Heat 1 cups water in a small saucepan over medium heat until it is hot to the touch but not close to simmering. Add the hot water to the flour mixture and whisk until there are no clumps in the batter. This is a very thin batter that will cook up to a texture similar to a smooth, dense jelly.

9. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Arrange as many small dipping bowls as you can in the basket. Rewhisk the batter and immediately spoon 1 tablespoons into each bowl. Carefully place the basket in the pot, cover, and cook for 10 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Arrange as many small dipping bowls as you can in the basket. Rewhisk the batter and immediately spoon 1 tablespoons into each bowl. Carefully place the basket in the pot, cover, and cook for 10 minutes.

10. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Carefully remove the bowls and let the dumplings cool slightly. Slip the dumplings out of the bowls with a b.u.t.ter knife and place them top side up in a single layer on a plate. Once unmolded, they will spread out and become a bit wider. Rewhisk the batter just before cooking the remaining batches. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Carefully remove the bowls and let the dumplings cool slightly. Slip the dumplings out of the bowls with a b.u.t.ter knife and place them top side up in a single layer on a plate. Once unmolded, they will spread out and become a bit wider. Rewhisk the batter just before cooking the remaining batches.

11. Once all the dumplings have been cooked and plated, top each one with a small dollop of the mung bean paste, and spread it out a bit with the back of a spoon. Now top each one neatly with teaspoon of the shallot and a teaspoon of the shrimp meal. Spoon the shallot oil and the Sweet, Sour, and Spicy Fish Sauce over each dumpling, then sprinkle with scallion and chile rings. Serve at room temperature. Once all the dumplings have been cooked and plated, top each one with a small dollop of the mung bean paste, and spread it out a bit with the back of a spoon. Now top each one neatly with teaspoon of the shallot and a teaspoon of the shrimp meal. Spoon the shallot oil and the Sweet, Sour, and Spicy Fish Sauce over each dumpling, then sprinkle with scallion and chile rings. Serve at room temperature.

Pork Tamales with Green Olives and Jalapeno Tamales de Puerco (Mexico) (Mexico) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES 12 12 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These extravagant pork tamales from southern Mexico offer a mult.i.tude of distinct flavors in a small package. As they cook, the tamales soak in flavors both from the filling and from the leaves used to wrap them. Hoja santa Hoja santa leaves, or Mexican pepper leaves, cling to their bodies, adding an herbal, aniselike flavor that is exceptional with pork. leaves, or Mexican pepper leaves, cling to their bodies, adding an herbal, aniselike flavor that is exceptional with pork. Hoja santa Hoja santa leaves can be found at Mexican markets, but if they are not available, you can use chard leaves as a subst.i.tute. If you do, mix 2 to 3 tablespoons of finely chopped fresh tarragon into the batter to give the tamales an anise flavor comparable to that of leaves can be found at Mexican markets, but if they are not available, you can use chard leaves as a subst.i.tute. If you do, mix 2 to 3 tablespoons of finely chopped fresh tarragon into the batter to give the tamales an anise flavor comparable to that of hoja santa. hoja santa.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Envelope Fold, but you can also use the Diamond in the Square Fold if your banana leaves are brittle or torn.

For the Sauce4 plum tomatoes2 to 3 large jalapeno chiles1 small white onion, chopped coa.r.s.e2 garlic cloves, crushed teaspoon salt2 tablespoons nonhydrogenated lard or a neutral oil, such as grapeseedFor the Filling1 cup bite-sized pieces of cooked pork (if you are making fresh pork broth for the tamale batter, this will provide you with more than enough meat)1/3 cup raisins cup raisins12 large green olives, pittedFor the Batter1 recipe Tamale Batter from Fresh Masa or from Masa Harina made with pork brothFor a.s.sembly12 hoja santa hoja santa leaves or green chard leaves, stemmed leaves or green chard leaves, stemmedFifteen 10 12-inch prepared banana leaf rectangles (see Glossary of Equipment)Twelve 15-inch lengths kitchen string for tying the tamalesEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE SAUCE AND THE FILLING MAKE THE SAUCE AND THE FILLING: Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

2. Place the tomatoes and the jalapenos on a baking sheet and roast until soft and charred in spots, about 20 minutes. Once they are cool enough to handle, pick or rub off the patches of charred skin as best you can. Trim the tomatoes and the peppers of their tougher stem ends. For a less spicy sauce, core and seed the jalapenos. Place the tomatoes and the jalapenos on a baking sheet and roast until soft and charred in spots, about 20 minutes. Once they are cool enough to handle, pick or rub off the patches of charred skin as best you can. Trim the tomatoes and the peppers of their tougher stem ends. For a less spicy sauce, core and seed the jalapenos.

3. Pulse tomatoes, jalapenos, onion, and garlic in a food processor until the mixture is light and pulpy. Add the salt and pulse once or twice to combine. You will have about 2 cups of sauce. Pulse tomatoes, jalapenos, onion, and garlic in a food processor until the mixture is light and pulpy. Add the salt and pulse once or twice to combine. You will have about 2 cups of sauce.

4. Heat the lard in a small pot over high heat. Carefully and quickly pour in the tomato mixture. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the sauce thickens and darkens in color, 6 to 8 minutes. (You can also make the sauce in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) Heat the lard in a small pot over high heat. Carefully and quickly pour in the tomato mixture. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the sauce thickens and darkens in color, 6 to 8 minutes. (You can also make the sauce in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) 5. Pour half of the cooked tomato sauce into a small bowl and set aside to cool. Mix the pork and the raisins into the remaining sauce simmering in the pot and cook for 3 minutes longer. Remove from the heat, scoop into another bowl, and set aside to cool. Pour half of the cooked tomato sauce into a small bowl and set aside to cool. Mix the pork and the raisins into the remaining sauce simmering in the pot and cook for 3 minutes longer. Remove from the heat, scoop into another bowl, and set aside to cool.

6. a.s.sEMBLE THE TAMALES a.s.sEMBLE THE TAMALES: Before a.s.sembling the tamales, review the Envelope Fold or the Diamond in the Square Fold. Before a.s.sembling the tamales, review the Envelope Fold or the Diamond in the Square Fold.

7. Line a tray with a kitchen towel. Have ready the batter, tomato sauce, pork and raisin mixture, olives, Line a tray with a kitchen towel. Have ready the batter, tomato sauce, pork and raisin mixture, olives, hoja santa hoja santa leaves, banana-leaf rectangles, and ties. leaves, banana-leaf rectangles, and ties.

8. Loosen up the batter by whisking it for 2 to 3 minutes. The consistency should be something similar to a grainy and dense mousse. If the batter is too stiff to whisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer and fluffier. Loosen up the batter by whisking it for 2 to 3 minutes. The consistency should be something similar to a grainy and dense mousse. If the batter is too stiff to whisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer and fluffier.

9. Pick out the best 12 banana-leaf rectangles. Lay flat 1 rectangle, smooth side up. Center a single Pick out the best 12 banana-leaf rectangles. Lay flat 1 rectangle, smooth side up. Center a single hoja santa hoja santa leaf, smooth side down, on top of the banana leaf. Place 1 heaping tablespoon of batter in the center of the leaf, smooth side down, on top of the banana leaf. Place 1 heaping tablespoon of batter in the center of the hoja santa hoja santa leaf and spread it out into a 4-inch square. Place a forkful of the pork, 1 olive, and a spoonful of sauce on top of the batter. Top everything with another heaping tablespoon of batter. Fold over one side. Fold over the opposite side. Fold the ends of the leaf over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaf from unfolding and place the tamale on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 12 tamales. leaf and spread it out into a 4-inch square. Place a forkful of the pork, 1 olive, and a spoonful of sauce on top of the batter. Top everything with another heaping tablespoon of batter. Fold over one side. Fold over the opposite side. Fold the ends of the leaf over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaf from unfolding and place the tamale on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 12 tamales.

10. Set aside the number of tamales that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Set aside the number of tamales that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

11. STEAM THE TAMALES STEAM THE TAMALES: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages upright, leaning or wedged loosely against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any banana-leaf sc.r.a.ps or parchment paper to keep the tamales propped up if needed. Blanket them with the remaining banana leaves. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 1 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. (If steaming frozen tamales, place them directly in the basket and cook them in the steamer pot for 2 hours. Do not allow the tamales to thaw before cooking.) Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages upright, leaning or wedged loosely against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any banana-leaf sc.r.a.ps or parchment paper to keep the tamales propped up if needed. Blanket them with the remaining banana leaves. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 1 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. (If steaming frozen tamales, place them directly in the basket and cook them in the steamer pot for 2 hours. Do not allow the tamales to thaw before cooking.) 12. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the tamales de puerco tamales de puerco cool slightly, cut off the strings, and serve. It's best not to open the tamales too soon and to peel back the leaves just before eating so that they stay moist and warm. cool slightly, cut off the strings, and serve. It's best not to open the tamales too soon and to peel back the leaves just before eating so that they stay moist and warm.

The Arm of the Queen Tamale Brazo de la Reina (Mexico) (Mexico) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES 1 1 DUMPLING DUMPLING).

The inspiration behind this dumpling's curious name becomes apparent when you cut into this tamale to reveal what resembles the cross section of flesh and bone. Masa mixed with chaya chaya (tree spinach) and thickened with ground pumpkin seeds surrounds a row of hard-boiled eggs. It's difficult to find (tree spinach) and thickened with ground pumpkin seeds surrounds a row of hard-boiled eggs. It's difficult to find chaya chaya outside of Mexico, but chard makes a fine subst.i.tute. Because of its size, it's best to steam this tamale in a roasting pan fitted with a rack. You can also use a standard-size steamer if you divide the ingredients in half and create two medium-sized tamales. outside of Mexico, but chard makes a fine subst.i.tute. Because of its size, it's best to steam this tamale in a roasting pan fitted with a rack. You can also use a standard-size steamer if you divide the ingredients in half and create two medium-sized tamales.

This dumpling is wrapped using the Candy-Wrapper Shape Using a Leaf.

For the Sauce5 plum tomatoes2 serrano chiles or 1 habanero chile1 small white onion, chopped coa.r.s.e1 teaspoon finely chopped epazote leaves or teaspoon dried Mexican oregano teaspoon salt2 tablespoons nonhydrogenated lard or a neutral oil, such as grapeseedFor the Batter1 cup toasted or raw hulled unsalted pumpkin seeds1 recipe Tamale Batter from Fresh Masa or from Masa Harina made with chicken broth6 large green chard leaves or small bunch spinach, stemmed, hand-wilted (see Tips), and chopped fine teaspoon saltFor the Filling4 large hard-boiled eggs, peeledFor a.s.semblyOne 12 20-inch prepared banana-leaf rectangle (see Glossary of Equipment), plus a couple of large sc.r.a.psFive 16-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the brazo de la reina brazo de la reinaEquipmentClean spice or coffee grinder1 or 2 racks at least 1 inch high and small enough to fit into the roasting pan but large enough to support the length of the tamale16-inch roasting pan with cover 1. MAKE THE SAUCE MAKE THE SAUCE: Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

2. Place the tomatoes and the chiles on a small baking sheet and roast until they are soft and charred in spots, about 20 minutes. Once they are cool enough to handle, pick or rub off the patches of charred skin as best you can. Trim the tomatoes and the peppers of their firmer stem ends. For less heat, core and seed the chiles. Place the tomatoes and the chiles on a small baking sheet and roast until they are soft and charred in spots, about 20 minutes. Once they are cool enough to handle, pick or rub off the patches of charred skin as best you can. Trim the tomatoes and the peppers of their firmer stem ends. For less heat, core and seed the chiles.

3. Pulse the tomatoes, chiles, and onion in a food processor until the mixture is light and pulpy. Add the epazote and the teaspoon salt and pulse once or twice to combine. Pulse the tomatoes, chiles, and onion in a food processor until the mixture is light and pulpy. Add the epazote and the teaspoon salt and pulse once or twice to combine.

4. Melt the lard in a small saucepan over high heat. Carefully and quickly pour in the tomato mixture. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the sauce thickens and darkens slightly in color, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside. (You can also make the sauce in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) Melt the lard in a small saucepan over high heat. Carefully and quickly pour in the tomato mixture. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the sauce thickens and darkens slightly in color, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside. (You can also make the sauce in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) 5. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: If using toasted pumpkin seeds, finely grind them in the spice grinder. If using raw pumpkin seeds, toast them in a large skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly, until they just begin to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn them immediately into a bowl and allow them to cool before grinding. If using toasted pumpkin seeds, finely grind them in the spice grinder. If using raw pumpkin seeds, toast them in a large skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly, until they just begin to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn them immediately into a bowl and allow them to cool before grinding.

6. Loosen up the batter by whisking it for about 2 minutes. The proper consistency should be something similar to a grainy and dense mousse. If the batter is too stiff to whisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer and fluffier. Add the chard, teaspoon salt, and cup of the ground pumpkin seeds and fold gently until just combined. Loosen up the batter by whisking it for about 2 minutes. The proper consistency should be something similar to a grainy and dense mousse. If the batter is too stiff to whisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer and fluffier. Add the chard, teaspoon salt, and cup of the ground pumpkin seeds and fold gently until just combined.

7. a.s.sEMBLE THE TAMALE a.s.sEMBLE THE TAMALE: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the brazo de la reina, brazo de la reina, review the Candy-Wrapper Shape Using a Leaf. review the Candy-Wrapper Shape Using a Leaf.

8. Have ready the sauce, the batter, the eggs, the banana-leaf rectangle, and the ties. Have ready the sauce, the batter, the eggs, the banana-leaf rectangle, and the ties.

9. Lay flat the banana-leaf rectangle, smooth side up. Arrange half of the batter on one of the longer edges of the leaf, leaving a 1-inch border in the front and a 2-inch border on each side. Arrange the eggs lengthwise in a straight line on top of the batter, making sure they are s.p.a.ced apart evenly. Gently push down on the eggs until the batter comes halfway up their sides. Spoon the remaining batter over the eggs. Roll the egg-stuffed batter up in the leaf, doing your best not to tear it. Tightly tie the two open ends, then tie 3 strings, s.p.a.ced apart, around the body of the tamale to secure the seam. Using scissors, trim and neaten up the ends of the leaf. Lay flat the banana-leaf rectangle, smooth side up. Arrange half of the batter on one of the longer edges of the leaf, leaving a 1-inch border in the front and a 2-inch border on each side. Arrange the eggs lengthwise in a straight line on top of the batter, making sure they are s.p.a.ced apart evenly. Gently push down on the eggs until the batter comes halfway up their sides. Spoon the remaining batter over the eggs. Roll the egg-stuffed batter up in the leaf, doing your best not to tear it. Tightly tie the two open ends, then tie 3 strings, s.p.a.ced apart, around the body of the tamale to secure the seam. Using scissors, trim and neaten up the ends of the leaf.

10. STEAM THE TAMALE STEAM THE TAMALE: Place one or both racks in the roasting pan and pour in enough water to reach below the rungs. Place over 2 burners and bring to a boil. Place the tamale on the rack and blanket with the banana-leaf sc.r.a.ps. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 2 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. Place one or both racks in the roasting pan and pour in enough water to reach below the rungs. Place over 2 burners and bring to a boil. Place the tamale on the rack and blanket with the banana-leaf sc.r.a.ps. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 2 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed.

11. Remove the pot from the heat. Using pot holders, grip the tamale at both ends, carefully lift it out of the pan, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow it to cool slightly. Meanwhile, reheat the sauce. Move the still-wrapped tamale to a large plate, seam side up. Cut off the strings and peel back the leaf. Pour the sauce over the tamale, sprinkle with the remaining ground pumpkin seeds, and serve. It's best not to open this tamale too soon and to peel back the leaf just before serving so that it stays moist and warm. Remove the pot from the heat. Using pot holders, grip the tamale at both ends, carefully lift it out of the pan, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow it to cool slightly. Meanwhile, reheat the sauce. Move the still-wrapped tamale to a large plate, seam side up. Cut off the strings and peel back the leaf. Pour the sauce over the tamale, sprinkle with the remaining ground pumpkin seeds, and serve. It's best not to open this tamale too soon and to peel back the leaf just before serving so that it stays moist and warm. Brazo de la reina Brazo de la reina can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips).

Leaf-Wrapped Rice Bundles Stuffed with Chicken and Peanuts Juanes de Arroz (Peru) (Peru) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES 4 4 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Everything from pork to fish can be tucked into the center of these rice dumplings, but the most popular versions are stuffed with a big piece of chicken and slices of hard-boiled egg. Olives and tomatoes add a lot of flavor, but are never overpowering. Long-grain rice would be too absorbent, so use medium-grain rice to keep this dish moist and luscious. A traditional juanes juanes is wrapped in is wrapped in bijao bijao leaves, but they are difficult to find. Banana leaves are an acceptable subst.i.tute, which some even prefer because of the particular flavors the banana leaf provides. leaves, but they are difficult to find. Banana leaves are an acceptable subst.i.tute, which some even prefer because of the particular flavors the banana leaf provides.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Lotus-Leaf Fold.

For the Filling2 tablespoons nonhydrogenated lard, olive oil, or a neutral oil such as grapeseed1 small yellow onion, chopped fine2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded (see Glossary of Ingredients), and chopped fine1 red aji aji chile, fresh or jarred, chopped fine, or teaspoon chile, fresh or jarred, chopped fine, or teaspoon aji aji powder or hot paprika powder or hot paprika3 garlic cloves, chopped fine1 teaspoon ground turmeric1 teaspoon ground c.u.min3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano leaves or 1 tablespoon dried2 tablespoons coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh culantro (recao) or cilantro leaves1 tablespoon salt1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper2 whole chicken legs, cut at the joint and trimmed of excess fat4 large black olives, such as Botija or Kalamata, pitted and cut in half cup unsalted roasted peanuts, papery skins removed2 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled and cut in halfFor the Rice1 cups medium-grain white rice, lightly rinsed2 large eggs, beatenFor a.s.semblyTen 12 15-inch prepared banana-leaf rectangles (see Glossary of Equipment)Four 35-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the juanes juanes 1. MAKE THE FILLING AND THE RICE MAKE THE FILLING AND THE RICE: Heat the lard in a medium pot over high heat. Add the onion and stir frequently until golden brown, about 7 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, Heat the lard in a medium pot over high heat. Add the onion and stir frequently until golden brown, about 7 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, aji aji chiles, garlic, turmeric, and c.u.min and cook for 2 minutes longer. Pour in 2 cups water and sc.r.a.pe up any sticky bits with a wooden spoon. Stir in the oregano, culantro, salt, and pepper, then arrange the chicken pieces, skin side down, in the pot in one layer. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 15 minutes. Turn the chicken over, cover, and cook for 15 minutes longer. chiles, garlic, turmeric, and c.u.min and cook for 2 minutes longer. Pour in 2 cups water and sc.r.a.pe up any sticky bits with a wooden spoon. Stir in the oregano, culantro, salt, and pepper, then arrange the chicken pieces, skin side down, in the pot in one layer. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 15 minutes. Turn the chicken over, cover, and cook for 15 minutes longer.

2. Using a slotted spoon or tongs, move the chicken to a bowl. Stir the rice into the simmering sauce, cover, reduce the heat to very low, and cook for 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or tongs, move the chicken to a bowl. Stir the rice into the simmering sauce, cover, reduce the heat to very low, and cook for 20 minutes.

3. Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove the skin. Pull the meat off the bones, tear it into bite-sized pieces, place it back in the bowl, and set aside. Discard the bones. Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove the skin. Pull the meat off the bones, tear it into bite-sized pieces, place it back in the bowl, and set aside. Discard the bones.

4. Once the rice has finished cooking, remove the pot from the heat, keep covered, and let it rest for 10 minutes longer. The rice will be just about cooked through. Scoop the rice into a shallow bowl and allow it to cool to room temperature. Once the rice has finished cooking, remove the pot from the heat, keep covered, and let it rest for 10 minutes longer. The rice will be just about cooked through. Scoop the rice into a shallow bowl and allow it to cool to room temperature.

5. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the juanes, juanes, review the Lotus-Leaf Fold, only instead of lotus leaves, you will be using banana leaves. review the Lotus-Leaf Fold, only instead of lotus leaves, you will be using banana leaves.

6. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the rice, chicken, olives, peanuts, hard-boiled eggs, banana-leaf rectangles, and ties. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the rice, chicken, olives, peanuts, hard-boiled eggs, banana-leaf rectangles, and ties.

7. Add the beaten eggs to the cooled rice and mix well. Divide the chicken into 4 equal piles. Do the same with the peanuts. Add the beaten eggs to the cooled rice and mix well. Divide the chicken into 4 equal piles. Do the same with the peanuts.

8. Pick out the best 8 leaf rectangles. Lay flat 2 rectangles, smooth side up. Center about a third of the rice on one of the rectangles. Moisten your hands with water and pat the rice into a 5-inch round patty. Arrange 1 pile of chicken over the rice, then add 2 olive halves, 1 pile of the peanuts, and 1 hard-boiled egg half. Top everything with another Pick out the best 8 leaf rectangles. Lay flat 2 rectangles, smooth side up. Center about a third of the rice on one of the rectangles. Moisten your hands with water and pat the rice into a 5-inch round patty. Arrange 1 pile of chicken over the rice, then add 2 olive halves, 1 pile of the peanuts, and 1 hard-boiled egg half. Top everything with another 2 2/3 cup of rice. Gently pat and pack the rice around the filling, shaping it into as neat a pile as you can. cup of rice. Gently pat and pack the rice around the filling, shaping it into as neat a pile as you can.

9. Fold one of the longer sides of the rectangle snugly over the pile of rice and filling. Fold the opposite side over just as snuggly. Fold over the ends as firmly as you can, forming a neat package. Center this package, seam side down, on the second rectangle. Using the same folding pattern, wrap the package as tightly as you can. Tie this bundle in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaves from unfolding. Repeat until you have 4 bundles. Fold one of the longer sides of the rectangle snugly over the pile of rice and filling. Fold the opposite side over just as snuggly. Fold over the ends as firmly as you can, forming a neat package. Center this package, seam side down, on the second rectangle. Using the same folding pattern, wrap the package as tightly as you can. Tie this bundle in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaves from unfolding. Repeat until you have 4 bundles.

10. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Place an upside-down plate in a large pot, fill it with 2 inches of water, and bring to a boil over high heat. The plate is there to protect the dumplings from direct heat as they cook. Arrange the bundles in one layer inside the pot. It is fine if they are wedged against each other. The water should just reach the tops of the bundles. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer for 1 hour. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. Place an upside-down plate in a large pot, fill it with 2 inches of water, and bring to a boil over high heat. The plate is there to protect the dumplings from direct heat as they cook. Arrange the bundles in one layer inside the pot. It is fine if they are wedged against each other. The water should just reach the tops of the bundles. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer for 1 hour. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed.