The Dumpling_ A Seasonal Guide Part 12

3. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. The dough will be somewhat firm. Return it to the bowl, cover with a damp towel, and let it rest for 30 minutes. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. The dough will be somewhat firm. Return it to the bowl, cover with a damp towel, and let it rest for 30 minutes.

4. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Drain the mushrooms and squeeze out any excess liquid. Remove and discard the stems and finely chop the mushroom caps. Place the mushrooms in a medium bowl along with the remaining filling ingredients. Mix vigorously with a wooden spoon until the filling has a velvety texture, about 3 minutes. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. (You can also make the filling in advance and keep it wrapped tightly in the refrigerator for up to 12 hours.) Drain the mushrooms and squeeze out any excess liquid. Remove and discard the stems and finely chop the mushroom caps. Place the mushrooms in a medium bowl along with the remaining filling ingredients. Mix vigorously with a wooden spoon until the filling has a velvety texture, about 3 minutes. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. (You can also make the filling in advance and keep it wrapped tightly in the refrigerator for up to 12 hours.) 5. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the shao mai, shao mai, review the Bottleneck Fold. review the Bottleneck Fold.

6. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the chilled filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the chilled filling.

7. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick, even thinner would be ideal. (For tips on how to roll dough out thinly, see Tips.) Take your time and sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple minutes before cutting out rounds. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick, even thinner would be ideal. (For tips on how to roll dough out thinly, see Tips.) Take your time and sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple minutes before cutting out rounds.

8. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 10 to 12. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 10 to 12. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine.

9. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each round. Gather up the sides of the round, creating a pouch around the filling and leaving an open neck in the center of the gathered dough. Pinch together the creases and pleats that formed naturally while the round was gathered up, without closing the neck. This gives the dumpling a loose and frilly top. Gently squeeze the body of the dumpling until the filling pushes up through the neck a little. Holding the dumpling by the neck, tap its base on your work surface until it is flat enough on the bottom to sit upright. Place on the prepared tray and repeat with the remaining rounds and filling. Keep the dumplings covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each round. Gather up the sides of the round, creating a pouch around the filling and leaving an open neck in the center of the gathered dough. Pinch together the creases and pleats that formed naturally while the round was gathered up, without closing the neck. This gives the dumpling a loose and frilly top. Gently squeeze the body of the dumpling until the filling pushes up through the neck a little. Holding the dumpling by the neck, tap its base on your work surface until it is flat enough on the bottom to sit upright. Place on the prepared tray and repeat with the remaining rounds and filling. Keep the dumplings covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling.

10. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

11. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the basket with the lettuce leaves and arrange as many dumplings in the basket as you can fit without their touching. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium-high, and steam for 20 minutes. (If steaming frozen Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the basket with the lettuce leaves and arrange as many dumplings in the basket as you can fit without their touching. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium-high, and steam for 20 minutes. (If steaming frozen shao mai, shao mai, place them directly in the basket and cook them in the steamer pot for 25 minutes. Do not allow the place them directly in the basket and cook them in the steamer pot for 25 minutes. Do not allow the shao mai shao mai to thaw before cooking.) to thaw before cooking.) 12. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Remove the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Remove the shao mai shao mai with a spoon or a small spatula and place them on a serving plate. Serve immediately while you cook any remaining with a spoon or a small spatula and place them on a serving plate. Serve immediately while you cook any remaining shao mai. shao mai.

Rice Dumplings Stuffed with Peanut and Coconut Nuo Mi Ci (China) (China) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 8 8 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These chewy rice dumplings combine two delights, peanuts and coconut. When these two aromatic ingredients mingle, the peanut's flavor is enhanced. The filling tends to be crumbly, making it tricky to handle when stuffing it into a delicate dough. You can make this step more manageable by mixing some freshly ground peanut b.u.t.ter into the filling. The dumplings are coated in more of the grated coconut, but they would be just as traditional if you choose to coat them in finely crushed peanuts, sesame seeds, or a dusting of snowy potato starch.

These dumplings are made using the Bowl Fold.

For the Filling cup freshly grated and dried coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients) or unsweetened dried grated coconut2/3 cup unsalted roasted peanuts, papery skins removed and nuts chopped coa.r.s.e cup unsalted roasted peanuts, papery skins removed and nuts chopped coa.r.s.e1/3 cup sugar cup sugar3 tablespoons nonhydrogenated lard or vegetable shortening, at room temperatureFor the Dough2 cups sweet (glutinous) rice flour, preferably from China or Thailand, plus some extra for dusting2 tablespoons tapioca flour (tapioca starch)For Coating cup freshly grated and dried coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients) or unsweetened dried grated coconutEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot24-inch square of muslin 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Place all the filling ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well. Place all the filling ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well.

2. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Pour 1 cup water into a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Combine the rice flour and the tapioca flour in a large heatproof bowl. Pour 1 cup water into a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Combine the rice flour and the tapioca flour in a large heatproof bowl.

3. Measure out cup of the boiling water and keep the remaining cup handy. Immediately pour the cup water into the flour mixture and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Let the dough cool slightly. Measure out cup of the boiling water and keep the remaining cup handy. Immediately pour the cup water into the flour mixture and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Let the dough cool slightly.

4. Carefully work the dough with your hands. If this is in any way uncomfortable, let it cool another minute or two, but keep in mind that you need to work with this dough while it is still very, very warm. Knead the dough in the bowl until it is smooth and manageable. If the dough is crumbly or cracking around the edges, work in some of the remaining hot water, a little at a time, until the dough comes together. Cover the dough with a cloth, keeping it warm as you a.s.semble the dumplings. Carefully work the dough with your hands. If this is in any way uncomfortable, let it cool another minute or two, but keep in mind that you need to work with this dough while it is still very, very warm. Knead the dough in the bowl until it is smooth and manageable. If the dough is crumbly or cracking around the edges, work in some of the remaining hot water, a little at a time, until the dough comes together. Cover the dough with a cloth, keeping it warm as you a.s.semble the dumplings.

5. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the nuo mi ci, nuo mi ci, review the Bowl Fold. review the Bowl Fold.

6. Sprinkle a plate with a little rice flour and have ready the filling and the dough. Sprinkle a plate with a little rice flour and have ready the filling and the dough.

7. Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball and keep them covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Use your thumbs to shape one ball into a bowl, about 1 inches deep. This will be a wide bowl that is best supported in the palm of your hand. Place 2 tablespoons of filling in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball, dust with rice flour, and place on the prepared plate. Repeat with the remaining dough b.a.l.l.s and filling. Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball and keep them covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Use your thumbs to shape one ball into a bowl, about 1 inches deep. This will be a wide bowl that is best supported in the palm of your hand. Place 2 tablespoons of filling in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball, dust with rice flour, and place on the prepared plate. Repeat with the remaining dough b.a.l.l.s and filling.

8. STEAM AND COAT THE DUMPLINGS STEAM AND COAT THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, then drape it inside the basket, creating a lining. Arrange the dumplings about inch apart in the basket. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 10 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, then drape it inside the basket, creating a lining. Arrange the dumplings about inch apart in the basket. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 10 minutes.

9. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the dumplings to cool slightly. Meanwhile, spread out the cup grated coconut on a plate and have ready a small bowl of water. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the dumplings to cool slightly. Meanwhile, spread out the cup grated coconut on a plate and have ready a small bowl of water.

10. Dip one of your hands into the water, pick up one dumpling, and dampen its entire surface. Place it in the grated coconut, roll it around with your dry hand to coat well, and place on a plate. (Moistening the dumpling allows the coconut to stick more evenly.) Repeat with the remaining dumplings. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature. Dip one of your hands into the water, pick up one dumpling, and dampen its entire surface. Place it in the grated coconut, roll it around with your dry hand to coat well, and place on a plate. (Moistening the dumpling allows the coconut to stick more evenly.) Repeat with the remaining dumplings. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature. Nuo mi ci Nuo mi ci can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Allow them to come back to room temperature before serving. can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Allow them to come back to room temperature before serving.

Lightly Soured Rice Cakes Sada Idli (India) (India) SERVES 3 3 TO TO 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 16 16 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Sada idli are delicate, slightly tangy rice cakes that are exceptionally useful because they absorb sauces, gravies, soups, or soupy condiments without getting soggy. These popular everyday dumplings are distinctly flavorful because they are made out of a fermented batter of ground rice and are delicate, slightly tangy rice cakes that are exceptionally useful because they absorb sauces, gravies, soups, or soupy condiments without getting soggy. These popular everyday dumplings are distinctly flavorful because they are made out of a fermented batter of ground rice and urad dal urad dal (a dried split pea). (a dried split pea). Idli Idli molds-round metal plates with perforated depressions-are usually sold in stacks or "trees" so that as many molds-round metal plates with perforated depressions-are usually sold in stacks or "trees" so that as many idli idli as possible can be steamed at once. You can buy as possible can be steamed at once. You can buy idli idli trees at most Indian supermarkets. trees at most Indian supermarkets.

For the Dumplings cup white basmati or other long-grain rice, soaked in plenty of nonchlorinated water, such as distilled or spring water, for 6 to 8 hours cup nonchlorinated water, such as distilled or spring water cup peeled black gram (urad dal), soaked in plenty of nonchlorinated water, such as distilled or spring water, for 2 to 3 hours teaspoon finely crushed fenugreek seeds (optional) teaspoon baking soda1 teaspoon saltFor Cooking and ServingGrapeseed or other neutral oil to coat the idli idli molds molds1 recipe each Vegetable Sambhar and Coconut Chutney (recipes follow)EquipmentPot large enough to hold the idli idli tree when covered tree when coveredIdli tree with 3 or 4 layers tree with 3 or 4 layers 1. MAKE THE BATTER 12 TO 36 HOURS IN ADVANCE MAKE THE BATTER 12 TO 36 HOURS IN ADVANCE: Drain the rice, scoop it into a food processor, and process until it resembles coa.r.s.e, wet sand, 2 to 3 minutes. Add no more than cup of the nonchlorinated water and process until the mixture becomes a thick paste, 2 to 3 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Scoop into a medium bowl and set aside. Don't rinse out the food processor. Drain the rice, scoop it into a food processor, and process until it resembles coa.r.s.e, wet sand, 2 to 3 minutes. Add no more than cup of the nonchlorinated water and process until the mixture becomes a thick paste, 2 to 3 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Scoop into a medium bowl and set aside. Don't rinse out the food processor.

2. Drain the black gram and turn it into the food processor along with the fenugreek, if desired. Pour in the remaining nonchlorinated water and process until the mixture is frothy and slightly gritty, about 2 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Pour it into the rice mixture and mix. Drain the black gram and turn it into the food processor along with the fenugreek, if desired. Pour in the remaining nonchlorinated water and process until the mixture is frothy and slightly gritty, about 2 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Pour it into the rice mixture and mix.

3. Cover with a cloth and let the batter ferment in a warm room for 12 to 36 hours. Fermentation takes longer at cooler room temperatures, so allow 36 hours if necessary. When properly fermented, the Cover with a cloth and let the batter ferment in a warm room for 12 to 36 hours. Fermentation takes longer at cooler room temperatures, so allow 36 hours if necessary. When properly fermented, the idli idli batter will expand to take up nearly twice as much room in the bowl and will smell slightly sour. batter will expand to take up nearly twice as much room in the bowl and will smell slightly sour.

4. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Add 1 inch of water to the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Detach the layers of the Add 1 inch of water to the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Detach the layers of the idli idli tree and coat each mold with a little oil. tree and coat each mold with a little oil.

5. Add the baking soda and the salt to the batter and fold gently to combine. Add the baking soda and the salt to the batter and fold gently to combine.

6. Fill each mold with 2 heaping tablespoons of batter. a.s.semble the Fill each mold with 2 heaping tablespoons of batter. a.s.semble the idli idli tree and carefully insert it into the pot. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 20 minutes. tree and carefully insert it into the pot. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 20 minutes.

7. Remove the pot from the heat. Place the Remove the pot from the heat. Place the idli idli tree on a folded kitchen towel and allow the tree on a folded kitchen towel and allow the idli idli to cool slightly. Using a b.u.t.ter knife or a small spatula, unmold them gently and keep warm. Cook the remaining batter and serve with Vegetable Sambhar and Coconut Chutney. to cool slightly. Using a b.u.t.ter knife or a small spatula, unmold them gently and keep warm. Cook the remaining batter and serve with Vegetable Sambhar and Coconut Chutney.

IDLI STUFFED WITH ONION CHUTNEY.

Make the Onion Chutney. Add a small spoonful of the chutney to each idli idli mold before spooning in the mold before spooning in the idli idli batter and cook as directed. batter and cook as directed.

VEGETABLE SAMBHAR.

MAKES 6 6 CUPS CUPS.

cup split pigeon peas (toovar dal or or toor dal toor dal)1 teaspoon ground turmeric1 medium yellow onion, cut into -inch squares5 okra pods, trimmed of their tops and cut into -inch rounds (about 1 cup)3 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded (see Glossary of Ingredients), and chopped coa.r.s.e1 small carrot, cut into -inch rounds2 tablespoons Sambhar Powder (recipe follows) or use store-bought1 teaspoon salt2 teaspoons tamarind paste cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh cilantro leaves1 tablespoon ghee (see Glossary of Ingredients) or a neutral oil, such as grapeseed1 teaspoons black or brown mustard seeds teaspoon c.u.min seeds1 to 2 small dried hot red chiles, such as lal mirch lal mirch or or Kashmiri Kashmiri, sliced into thin rings5 to 6 fresh curry leaves 1. Place the split pigeon peas and turmeric in a medium pot, pour in 4 cups water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, until the peas are just breaking apart, about 20 minutes. Place the split pigeon peas and turmeric in a medium pot, pour in 4 cups water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, until the peas are just breaking apart, about 20 minutes.

2. Add the onion, okra, tomatoes, carrot, Add the onion, okra, tomatoes, carrot, sambhar sambhar powder, salt, and tamarind paste and stir. There should be just enough liquid to cover the vegetables. Add more water if needed. Cover and simmer over low heat until the vegetables are very tender, 20 to 25 minutes. powder, salt, and tamarind paste and stir. There should be just enough liquid to cover the vegetables. Add more water if needed. Cover and simmer over low heat until the vegetables are very tender, 20 to 25 minutes.

3. Shortly before the stew has finished cooking, heat the ghee over medium heat and add the mustard seeds, c.u.min, chiles, and curry leaves. Stir until the mustard seeds begin to crackle, about 2 minutes, then immediately remove from the heat. Shortly before the stew has finished cooking, heat the ghee over medium heat and add the mustard seeds, c.u.min, chiles, and curry leaves. Stir until the mustard seeds begin to crackle, about 2 minutes, then immediately remove from the heat.

4. Once the stew has finished cooking, pour it into a large serving bowl or individual soup bowls. Top with the fried spice mixture and stir just before serving. You can also make the stew in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days. Once the stew has finished cooking, pour it into a large serving bowl or individual soup bowls. Top with the fried spice mixture and stir just before serving. You can also make the stew in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.

SAMBHAR POWDER.

MAKES ABOUT CUP CUP.

cup coriander seeds2 tablespoons chana dal chana dal (a type of dried split chickpea) (a type of dried split chickpea)1 tablespoons peeled black gram (urad dal)2 teaspoons c.u.min seeds1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds1 teaspoon black peppercorns1 to 2 small dried hot red chiles, such as lal mirch lal mirch or or Kashmiri Kashmiri10 fresh curry leavesOne 1-inch cinnamon stick or teaspoon groundEquipmentClean spice or coffee grinder 1. Combine all the ingredients in a medium skillet over medium heat. (If using ground cinnamon, do not add until after the other ingredients are toasted.) Stir continuously until the spices are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Scoop the mixture into a small bowl and set aside to cool to room temperature. Combine all the ingredients in a medium skillet over medium heat. (If using ground cinnamon, do not add until after the other ingredients are toasted.) Stir continuously until the spices are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Scoop the mixture into a small bowl and set aside to cool to room temperature.

2. Once the spice mixture has cooled, grind it in the spice grinder until you have a fine powder. Measure out what you need and keep the rest tightly sealed in a gla.s.s container for up to 3 months. Once the spice mixture has cooled, grind it in the spice grinder until you have a fine powder. Measure out what you need and keep the rest tightly sealed in a gla.s.s container for up to 3 months.

COCONUT CHUTNEY.

MAKES ABOUT 2 2 CUPS CUPS.

1 tablespoon peeled black gram (urad dal)1 cup freshly grated coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients) or frozen grated coconut, thawed1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger cup warm water2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice1 tablespoon coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh cilantro leaves teaspoon sugar teaspoon salt2 teaspoons ghee (Glossary of Ingredients) or a neutral oil, such as grapeseed teaspoon black or brown mustard seeds teaspoon c.u.min seeds1 small dried hot red chile, such as lal mirch lal mirch or or Kashmiri Kashmiri, sliced into thin rings2 to 3 fresh curry leavesEquipmentClean spice or coffee grinder 1. Toast the black gram in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring or shaking the pan constantly, until it just begins to brown, about 3 minutes. Immediately scoop the black gram into a small bowl and set aside to cool to room temperature. Once it has cooled, grind it in the spice grinder until you have a coa.r.s.e powder and set aside. Toast the black gram in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring or shaking the pan constantly, until it just begins to brown, about 3 minutes. Immediately scoop the black gram into a small bowl and set aside to cool to room temperature. Once it has cooled, grind it in the spice grinder until you have a coa.r.s.e powder and set aside.

2. Pulse the coconut and ginger in a food processor until the coconut is very finely chopped. Pour in the warm water and process until you have a moist, gritty paste, about 1 minute. Add the lemon juice, cilantro, sugar, and salt, pulse once or twice to combine, then scoop into a small serving bowl. Pulse the coconut and ginger in a food processor until the coconut is very finely chopped. Pour in the warm water and process until you have a moist, gritty paste, about 1 minute. Add the lemon juice, cilantro, sugar, and salt, pulse once or twice to combine, then scoop into a small serving bowl.

3. Heat the ghee over medium heat and add the mustard seeds, c.u.min, chile, and curry leaves. Stir until the mustard seeds begin to crackle, about 2 minutes, then scoop all the spices and the oil on top of the coconut mixture. Stir everything together when you are ready to serve. Heat the ghee over medium heat and add the mustard seeds, c.u.min, chile, and curry leaves. Stir until the mustard seeds begin to crackle, about 2 minutes, then scoop all the spices and the oil on top of the coconut mixture. Stir everything together when you are ready to serve.

ONION CHUTNEY.

MAKES CUP CUP.

2 tablespoons ghee (Glossary of Ingredients) or a neutral oil such as grapeseed1 teaspoon peeled black gram (urad dal)1 small dried hot red chile, such as lal mirch lal mirch or or Kashmiri, Kashmiri, split in half split in half teaspoon grated fresh ginger1 small yellow onion, chopped fine2 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded (see Glossary of Ingredients), and chopped coa.r.s.e teaspoon brown mustard seeds teaspoon c.u.min seeds teaspoon tamarind paste or pitted prune, mashed into a thick paste with teaspoon lime juice1 teaspoon jaggery or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients) teaspoon salt 1. Melt half of the ghee in a medium skillet over medium heat. Stir in the black gram, chile, and ginger and cook until the gram begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Add the onion and stir frequently until the onion is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Mix in the tomatoes and cook for 1 minute longer. Remove from the heat. Scoop into a food processor and pulse until the mixture is light and pulpy. Melt half of the ghee in a medium skillet over medium heat. Stir in the black gram, chile, and ginger and cook until the gram begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Add the onion and stir frequently until the onion is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Mix in the tomatoes and cook for 1 minute longer. Remove from the heat. Scoop into a food processor and pulse until the mixture is light and pulpy.

2. Melt the rest of the ghee in a clean skillet over medium heat. Add the mustard and c.u.min seeds and stir continuously for 1 minute. Mix in the pureed onion mixture, the tamarind, jaggery, and salt and continue stirring until you have a thick, moist paste, about 3 minutes longer. Remove from the heat, scoop into a bowl, set aside, and allow it to cool to room temperature before using. You can make the chutney in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 1 week. Melt the rest of the ghee in a clean skillet over medium heat. Add the mustard and c.u.min seeds and stir continuously for 1 minute. Mix in the pureed onion mixture, the tamarind, jaggery, and salt and continue stirring until you have a thick, moist paste, about 3 minutes longer. Remove from the heat, scoop into a bowl, set aside, and allow it to cool to room temperature before using. You can make the chutney in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 1 week.AugustPEACH AND BERRY GRUNT.

(United States) Ca.s.sAVA PATTIES WITH GRATED COCONUT.

Pichi-Pichi (Philippines) (Philippines) RED PEA SOUP WITH SPINNERS.

(Caribbean) LEAF-WRAPPED RICE AND BANANA BUNDLES.

Khao Tom Mat (Thailand) (Thailand) WONTONS WITH RED CHILE OIL.

Hung You Chao Shou (China) (China) CORN TAMALES STUFFED WITH STRINGY CHEESE AND POBLANO.

Tamales de Elote (Mexico) (Mexico) LEAF-WRAPPED BLACK-EYED PEA DUMPLINGS.

Moyin-Moyin (Nigeria) (Nigeria) LEAF-WRAPPED RICE BUNDLES STUFFED WITH PORK AND BEANS.

Banh Tet (Vietnam) (Vietnam) COCONUT-FILLED RICE DUMPLINGS.

Modak (India) (India) TAPIOCA b.a.l.l.s STUFFED WITH MINCED PORK AND PEANUTS.

Sakoo Sai Moo (Thailand) (Thailand) Peach and Berry Grunt (United States) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 12 12 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Blueberry Grunt is a cla.s.sic dessert that often relies on a lot of sugar to compensate for the natural tartness of the berries. By combining the berries with peaches and just a touch of sugar, however, you can emphasize the deep fruity flavors of both without going into sugar shock. You can use milk instead of b.u.t.termilk in the dough, but b.u.t.termilk adds a tang that goes well with fruit. You can always subst.i.tute blackberries or raspberries for the blueberries.

For the Dumplings1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons sugar2 teaspoons baking powder teaspoon salt2 tablespoons cold unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into bits1/3 cup b.u.t.termilk or milk cup b.u.t.termilk or milkFor the Stew4 ripe but firm peaches, peeled, pitted, and cut into -inch slices1 pint (about 2 cups) fresh or frozen blueberries or blackberries1/3 cup honey, preferably raw cup honey, preferably raw2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice cup sugar teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon ground allspiceFor Serving1 recipe Sweetened Whipped Cream, Cream Sauce, or vanilla ice creamEquipmentLarge, wide pot or skillet with a cover 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Combine the flour, 2 teaspoons sugar, the baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Add the b.u.t.ter and work it into the flour mixture with a pastry cutter or 2 b.u.t.ter knives until it looks like a coa.r.s.e, damp meal. Add the b.u.t.termilk and stir until you have a thick, slightly lumpy batter. Do not overmix. Combine the flour, 2 teaspoons sugar, the baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Add the b.u.t.ter and work it into the flour mixture with a pastry cutter or 2 b.u.t.ter knives until it looks like a coa.r.s.e, damp meal. Add the b.u.t.termilk and stir until you have a thick, slightly lumpy batter. Do not overmix.

2. MAKE THE STEW AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE STEW AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Place all the stew ingredients, along with cup water, in the large pot. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 2 minutes. Stir and see if the liquid is level with the fruit. Add some more water if needed. Place all the stew ingredients, along with cup water, in the large pot. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 2 minutes. Stir and see if the liquid is level with the fruit. Add some more water if needed.

3. Scoop up a heaping tablespoon of batter. Use another spoon or your finger to move the batter gently off the spoon and on top of the simmering fruit. Drop in spoonfuls of the remaining batter, leaving as much s.p.a.ce as you can around each. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Uncover and cook for 2 minutes longer. Serve these dumplings with plenty of the fruit and Sweetened Whipped Cream, Cream Sauce, or vanilla ice cream. Scoop up a heaping tablespoon of batter. Use another spoon or your finger to move the batter gently off the spoon and on top of the simmering fruit. Drop in spoonfuls of the remaining batter, leaving as much s.p.a.ce as you can around each. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Uncover and cook for 2 minutes longer. Serve these dumplings with plenty of the fruit and Sweetened Whipped Cream, Cream Sauce, or vanilla ice cream.

Ca.s.sava Patties with Grated Coconut Pichi-Pichi (Philippines) (Philippines) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES 12 12 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Pichi-pichi, made from grated ca.s.sava, sugar, and pandan water, are something like large, soft gumdrops with a clean, floral flavor. made from grated ca.s.sava, sugar, and pandan water, are something like large, soft gumdrops with a clean, floral flavor. Pichi-pichi Pichi-pichi are typically enjoyed in one of two ways: right out of the steamer, while still warm and soft, or at room temperature, when they're firm on the outside but still quite soft on the inside. No matter their temperature, they're commonly topped or coated with a generous amount of freshly grated coconut. are typically enjoyed in one of two ways: right out of the steamer, while still warm and soft, or at room temperature, when they're firm on the outside but still quite soft on the inside. No matter their temperature, they're commonly topped or coated with a generous amount of freshly grated coconut.

For the Dumplings10 fresh or frozen pandan leaves, each folded in half and tied into a knot for easier handling, or teaspoon pandan extract1 cup finely grated ca.s.sava (see Glossary of Ingredients)1 cup sugarFor the Coating4 cups freshly grated coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients) or frozen grated coconut, thawedEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer potTwelve 2-inch dipping bowls (see Glossary of Equipment) 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Place the knotted pandan leaves and 1 cups water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 15 minutes. Measure out 1 cup of the pandan water and allow it to cool to room temperature. If using pandan extract, stir it into 1 cup cool water and set aside. Place the knotted pandan leaves and 1 cups water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 15 minutes. Measure out 1 cup of the pandan water and allow it to cool to room temperature. If using pandan extract, stir it into 1 cup cool water and set aside.

2. Move the grated ca.s.sava onto a kitchen towel. Bring together the ends of the cloth and twist to squeeze out as much liquid as you can. There won't be much liquid, and it may simply be absorbed by the cloth. Place the ca.s.sava in a large bowl and break it up a little. Add the sugar and pandan water and mix well. Move the grated ca.s.sava onto a kitchen towel. Bring together the ends of the cloth and twist to squeeze out as much liquid as you can. There won't be much liquid, and it may simply be absorbed by the cloth. Place the ca.s.sava in a large bowl and break it up a little. Add the sugar and pandan water and mix well.

3. STEAM AND COAT THE DUMPLINGS STEAM AND COAT THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Arrange as many dipping bowls in the basket as you can. Spoon enough batter into each bowl to fill them halfway. Place the basket in the pot, cover, and steam for 15 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Arrange as many dipping bowls in the basket as you can. Spoon enough batter into each bowl to fill them halfway. Place the basket in the pot, cover, and steam for 15 minutes.

4. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pichi-pichi pichi-pichi to cool slightly. Meanwhile, spread the coconut out on a large plate. Working while they are still warm, unmold the to cool slightly. Meanwhile, spread the coconut out on a large plate. Working while they are still warm, unmold the pichi-pichi pichi-pichi with a b.u.t.ter knife or a small spatula and place them on the plate of grated coconut. Turn and press all sides into the coconut, then arrange them on a serving plate. Repeat with any remaining batter. Serve warm or at room temperature. with a b.u.t.ter knife or a small spatula and place them on the plate of grated coconut. Turn and press all sides into the coconut, then arrange them on a serving plate. Repeat with any remaining batter. Serve warm or at room temperature. Pichi-pichi Pichi-pichi can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Allow them to come back to room temperature before serving. can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Allow them to come back to room temperature before serving.

Red Pea Soup with Spinners (Caribbean) SERVES 6 ( 6 (MAKES 6 6 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

This Caribbean soup is frequently made with lots of little dumplings, but versions prepared with palm-sized dumplings are more fun to eat. The long slow cooking of the soup dissolves the beans almost completely and makes the soup thick and velvety. Cooking the soup with a whole Scotch bonnet pepper will give a slight sense of heat, but if you want a truly fiery soup, chop up the Scotch bonnet before adding it.

For the Soup1 large smoked ham hock1 cups dried red kidney beans, soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours, or 2 cups canned, drained and rinsed pound boneless smoked brine-cured (or wet-cured) ham, cut into 6 pieces1 small yellow onion, chopped fine1 medium baking potato, such as russet, peeled and cut into -inch cubes1 small tropical yam or sweet potato, peeled and cut into -inch cubes1 medium carrot, cut into -inch rounds3 fresh thyme sprigs1 Scotch bonnet or habanero chile*Salt and freshly ground pepper to tasteFor the Dumplings1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting teaspoon salt 1. MAKE THE SOUP MAKE THE SOUP: Fill a small saucepan halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the ham hock, cover, and cook for 5 minutes, then drain. Fill a small saucepan halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the ham hock, cover, and cook for 5 minutes, then drain.

2. Place the ham hock in a large pot and pour in 10 cups water. Drain the kidney beans and stir them, along with the ham pieces, into the pot. (If using canned beans, add them later when adding the vegetables.) Bring to a boil over high heat, cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook until the beans are just tender, stirring occasionally, 1 to 2 hours. Place the ham hock in a large pot and pour in 10 cups water. Drain the kidney beans and stir them, along with the ham pieces, into the pot. (If using canned beans, add them later when adding the vegetables.) Bring to a boil over high heat, cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook until the beans are just tender, stirring occasionally, 1 to 2 hours.

3. Add the onion, potato, yam, carrot, thyme, and chile. Cover and cook for 1 hour longer, stirring occasionally. The vegetables will be very tender and the beans will begin to break apart. Reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the soup hot until it's time to add the dumplings. (You can also make the soup in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) Add the onion, potato, yam, carrot, thyme, and chile. Cover and cook for 1 hour longer, stirring occasionally. The vegetables will be very tender and the beans will begin to break apart. Reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the soup hot until it's time to add the dumplings. (You can also make the soup in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) 4. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: While the soup is simmering, place 1 cup of the flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the salt and mix well. Pour in While the soup is simmering, place 1 cup of the flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the salt and mix well. Pour in 2 2/3 cup water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. cup water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

5. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 3 to 4 minutes. The dough will be soft and stretchy. Return it to the bowl, cover, and let rest for 30 minutes. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 3 to 4 minutes. The dough will be soft and stretchy. Return it to the bowl, cover, and let rest for 30 minutes.

6. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and dust with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and dust with a little flour.

7. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface and divide it into 6 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball, then pat each ball down into a disk about inch thick. Place the disks on the prepared tray and set aside. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface and divide it into 6 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball, then pat each ball down into a disk about inch thick. Place the disks on the prepared tray and set aside.

8. FINISH THE SOUP AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS FINISH THE SOUP AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the ham hock from the soup with tongs or a slotted spoon, place it on a plate, and allow it to cool slightly. Fish out the thyme stems and chile and discard. Remove the ham hock from the soup with tongs or a slotted spoon, place it on a plate, and allow it to cool slightly. Fish out the thyme stems and chile and discard.

9. Return the soup to a simmer over medium heat. Gently drop the dumplings, one by one, into the simmering soup and stir gently to prevent sticking. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Return the soup to a simmer over medium heat. Gently drop the dumplings, one by one, into the simmering soup and stir gently to prevent sticking. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes.

10. While the dumplings cook, pull the rind off the ham hock and tear the meat off the bones. Discard the rind and bones. Once the dumplings have finished cooking, return the torn meat to the soup and stir. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve. While the dumplings cook, pull the rind off the ham hock and tear the meat off the bones. Discard the rind and bones. Once the dumplings have finished cooking, return the torn meat to the soup and stir. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve.

Leaf-Wrapped Rice and Banana Bundles Khao Tom Mat (Thailand) (Thailand) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 8 8 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Khao tom mat are always made with whole grains of sweet rice, but you can use any type of banana or subst.i.tute a slice of papaya or plantain. Many bananas found in Thailand are not available here, but the small red-skinned ones available in some markets work well, as do the larger, more common yellow ones. As the dumpling cooks, the rice expands and gets sticky and soft around the filling, creating a type of rice cake. Because are always made with whole grains of sweet rice, but you can use any type of banana or subst.i.tute a slice of papaya or plantain. Many bananas found in Thailand are not available here, but the small red-skinned ones available in some markets work well, as do the larger, more common yellow ones. As the dumpling cooks, the rice expands and gets sticky and soft around the filling, creating a type of rice cake. Because khao tom mat khao tom mat are fas.h.i.+oned with a looser leaf wrap, they have a more yielding and less compact texture than do similar rice dumplings that are more tightly wrapped. are fas.h.i.+oned with a looser leaf wrap, they have a more yielding and less compact texture than do similar rice dumplings that are more tightly wrapped.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Diamond in the Square Fold.

For the Rice Mixture cup dried black turtle beans, soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours, or cup canned, drained and rinsed3 pandan leaves, each folded in half and tied into a knot for easier handling, or teaspoon pandan extract2/3 cup fresh coconut milk (see Glossary of Ingredients) or canned coconut milk cup fresh coconut milk (see Glossary of Ingredients) or canned coconut milk cup sugar teaspoon salt1 cup medium-grain sweet (glutinous) white rice, preferably from Thailand, rinsed (see Glossary of Ingredients) and soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hoursFor the Filling2 very ripe bananasFor a.s.semblyEight 8-inch prepared banana-leaf squares (see Glossary of Equipment)Eight 6-inch prepared banana-leaf squaresEight 36-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the khao tom mat khao tom matEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. COOK THE BEANS COOK THE BEANS 1 1 TO TO 1 1 HOURS IN ADVANCE HOURS IN ADVANCE: (Skip this step if using canned black turtle beans.) Drain the black turtle beans and place them in a small saucepan. Cover the beans with plenty of water and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the beans are tender, 1 to 1 hours. Drain and place in a small bowl to cool. (Skip this step if using canned black turtle beans.) Drain the black turtle beans and place them in a small saucepan. Cover the beans with plenty of water and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the beans are tender, 1 to 1 hours. Drain and place in a small bowl to cool.

2. COOK THE RICE COOK THE RICE: Place the knotted pandan leaves in a small pot. Pour in the coconut milk and stir in the sugar and salt. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Immediately cover, reduce the heat to very low, and barely simmer for 15 minutes. If using fresh coconut milk, be careful not to let it come to a boil. Place the knotted pandan leaves in a small pot. Pour in the coconut milk and stir in the sugar and salt. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Immediately cover, reduce the heat to very low, and barely simmer for 15 minutes. If using fresh coconut milk, be careful not to let it come to a boil.

3. Drain the rice. Remove the pandan leaves from the coconut milk and discard. Raise the heat from very low to low, mix in the rice, cover, and simmer for 3 minutes. Uncover and stir the rice until most of the liquid has been absorbed, 1 to 2 minutes. The rice will be firm and undercooked. Scoop into a bowl, mix in the beans, and set aside to cool. Drain the rice. Remove the pandan leaves from the coconut milk and discard. Raise the heat from very low to low, mix in the rice, cover, and simmer for 3 minutes. Uncover and stir the rice until most of the liquid has been absorbed, 1 to 2 minutes. The rice will be firm and undercooked. Scoop into a bowl, mix in the beans, and set aside to cool.

4. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the khao tom mat, khao tom mat, review the Diamond in the Square Fold. review the Diamond in the Square Fold.

5. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the rice mixture, bananas, banana-leaf squares, and ties. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the rice mixture, bananas, banana-leaf squares, and ties.

6. Peel the bananas and split each one into 4 equal pieces by cutting them both crosswise and lengthwise. You will have 8 banana slices. Peel the bananas and split each one into 4 equal pieces by cutting them both crosswise and lengthwise. You will have 8 banana slices.

7. Lay flat 1 large banana-leaf square, smooth side up, then place a smaller leaf square, smooth side up, diagonally on top of the large square. Center 2 rounded tablespoons of the rice mixture on top of the stacked leaves and spread it out into a 4 2-inch rectangle. Gently press a piece of banana into the rice mixture. The length of the banana should not be longer than the 4-inch length of the rice rectangle. Top with 1 tablespoon of the rice mixture. Fold over one corner of the stacked leaves. Fold over the opposite corner. Fold the ends of the leaves over as firmly as you can to create a neat, rectangular package. Tie to secure the folds, place it on the lined tray, and repeat until you have 8 packages. Lay flat 1 large banana-leaf square, smooth side up, then place a smaller leaf square, smooth side up, diagonally on top of the large square. Center 2 rounded tablespoons of the rice mixture on top of the stacked leaves and spread it out into a 4 2-inch rectangle. Gently press a piece of banana into the rice mixture. The length of the banana should not be longer than the 4-inch length of the rice rectangle. Top with 1 tablespoon of the rice mixture. Fold over one corner of the stacked leaves. Fold over the opposite corner. Fold the ends of the leaves over as firmly as you can to create a neat, rectangular package. Tie to secure the folds, place it on the lined tray, and repeat until you have 8 packages.

8. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Arrange the packages in the basket, then place the basket in the pot. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 1 hour. Check the water level halfway through the cooking and replenish with boiling water as needed. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Arrange the packages in the basket, then place the basket in the pot. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 1 hour. Check the water level halfway through the cooking and replenish with boiling water as needed.

9. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the khao tom mat khao tom mat cool slightly, cut off the strings (unless you are freezing the dumplings), and serve. They can also be served at room temperature. It's best not to open the packages too soon, and to peel back the leaves just before eating, so they stay moist and warm. cool slightly, cut off the strings (unless you are freezing the dumplings), and serve. They can also be served at room temperature. It's best not to open the packages too soon, and to peel back the leaves just before eating, so they stay moist and warm. Khao tom mat Khao tom mat can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen khao tom mat khao tom mat, allow them to thaw before steaming.

Wontons with Red Chile Oil Hung You Chao Shou (China) (China) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES ABOUT 36 36 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Hung you chao shou are tasty pork and cabbage dumplings served in a generous slick of chile oil. The amount of chile recommended here should be just enough to make you break into a gentle sweat, although you could of course use less or more. If it's wonton soup you want, just cook the dumplings in a big pot of simmering water until they float and then immediately add them to a pot of Chicken Broth with Chinese Flavors. are tasty pork and cabbage dumplings served in a generous slick of chile oil. The amount of chile recommended here should be just enough to make you break into a gentle sweat, although you could of course use less or more. If it's wonton soup you want, just cook the dumplings in a big pot of simmering water until they float and then immediately add them to a pot of Chicken Broth with Chinese Flavors.

These dumplings are made using the Curled-Letter Fold.

For the Filling pound (2 to 3 small heads) Shanghai bok choy or baby bok choy, trimmed, chopped fine, and hand-wilted (see Tips) pound freshly ground pork2 garlic cloves, chopped very fine1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger2 scallions, sliced into thin rings1 tablespoon soy sauce2 teaspoons rice wine1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepperFor the Dough1 recipe Sheesh Barak bi Laban Sheesh Barak bi Laban (Spicy Lamb-Filled Dumplings In a Thick Yogurt Soup) dough, preferably made while the filling is being chilled but no more than 1 hour in advance (Spicy Lamb-Filled Dumplings In a Thick Yogurt Soup) dough, preferably made while the filling is being chilled but no more than 1 hour in advanceUnbleached all-purpose flour for dustingFor the Chile Oil cup grapeseed or other neutral oil2 to 3 teaspoons mild pure ground chile, preferably from China or Korea, or Aleppo pepper flakes1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns, finely crushed1 garlic clove, chopped very fine1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil teaspoon salt1 teaspoons rice vinegarFor Serving1 scallion, sliced into thin ringsEquipmentLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Scoop the hand-wilted bok choy onto a kitchen towel. Bring together the ends of the cloth and twist to squeeze out as much liquid as you can. Place the bok choy in a medium bowl and mix in all the remaining filling ingredients. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes but no more than 6 hours. Scoop the hand-wilted bok choy onto a kitchen towel. Bring together the ends of the cloth and twist to squeeze out as much liquid as you can. Place the bok choy in a medium bowl and mix in all the remaining filling ingredients. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes but no more than 6 hours.

2. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the wontons, review the Curled-Letter Fold. Before a.s.sembling the wontons, review the Curled-Letter Fold.

3. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling.