The Dumpling_ A Seasonal Guide Part 14

5. Once the vegetables have cooked, mix the chicken back into the stew. Reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the stew hot until it's time to add the dumplings. (You can also make the stew in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days. If the stew is too thick to stir easily, add a little water to thin it out.) Once the vegetables have cooked, mix the chicken back into the stew. Reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the stew hot until it's time to add the dumplings. (You can also make the stew in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days. If the stew is too thick to stir easily, add a little water to thin it out.) 6. MAKE THE BATTER AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE BATTER AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Combine the 1 cup flour, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. Add the b.u.t.ter and work it into the flour mixture with a pastry cutter or 2 b.u.t.ter knives until it looks like a coa.r.s.e, damp meal. Pour in the cold water and stir until you have a doughy and slightly lumpy batter. Do not overmix. Combine the 1 cup flour, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. Add the b.u.t.ter and work it into the flour mixture with a pastry cutter or 2 b.u.t.ter knives until it looks like a coa.r.s.e, damp meal. Pour in the cold water and stir until you have a doughy and slightly lumpy batter. Do not overmix.

7. Scoop up a rounded tablespoon of batter. Use another spoon or your finger to move the batter gently off the spoon and onto the surface of the stew. Drop in the remaining spoonfuls of batter, as close together as possible without touching. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes, then uncover and cook for 5 minutes longer and serve. Scoop up a rounded tablespoon of batter. Use another spoon or your finger to move the batter gently off the spoon and onto the surface of the stew. Drop in the remaining spoonfuls of batter, as close together as possible without touching. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes, then uncover and cook for 5 minutes longer and serve.

Chicken and Dumpling Soup (United States) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES ABOUT 50 50 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

The dumplings are the main event in this cla.s.sic creamy chicken and celery soup. Made from a simple flour and water dough, they are smooth and slippery, which is why they are referred to at times as "slick dumplings." Because they are cooked in the soup, they absorb a lot of flavor and are delicious by themselves, scooped out of the pot as a snack. Cooked celery develops a mild and sweet taste. For an even subtler celery flavor, use the innermost stalks or the heart. If you are looking for a darker, more intense version of chicken and dumplings, try the Chicken Fricot with Dumplings (preceding recipe) or the Csirke Paprikas Galuskaval Csirke Paprikas Galuskaval (October). (October).

For the SoupOne 4- to 5-pound chicken, cut into serving pieces, skin removed1 large yellow onion, chopped coa.r.s.e1 garlic clove, chopped coa.r.s.e1 fresh rosemary sprig2 bay leaves5 celery ribs with leaves, cut into -inch pieces2 teaspoons salt1/3 cup heavy cream cup heavy creamSalt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteFor the Dumplings1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting teaspoon baking powder2 teaspoons salt2 tablespoons cold unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into bits cup cold water 1. MAKE THE SOUP MAKE THE SOUP: Place the chicken, onion, garlic, rosemary, and bay leaves in a large pot. Pour in 2 quarts water and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Mix in the celery and the salt, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon. (You can also make the soup in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) Place the chicken, onion, garlic, rosemary, and bay leaves in a large pot. Pour in 2 quarts water and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Mix in the celery and the salt, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon. (You can also make the soup in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) 2. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: While the soup is simmering, place 1 cup of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the baking powder and salt and mix well. Add the b.u.t.ter and work it into the flour mixture with a pastry cutter or 2 b.u.t.ter knives until it looks like a coa.r.s.e, damp meal. Pour in the cold water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. While the soup is simmering, place 1 cup of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the baking powder and salt and mix well. Add the b.u.t.ter and work it into the flour mixture with a pastry cutter or 2 b.u.t.ter knives until it looks like a coa.r.s.e, damp meal. Pour in the cold water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

3. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 2 to 3 minutes. Return the dough to the bowl, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 2 to 3 minutes. Return the dough to the bowl, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

4. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

5. Place the dough on a floured surface, knead once or twice, and shape into a blunt log. Roll the log out into a 10-inch square about Place the dough on a floured surface, knead once or twice, and shape into a blunt log. Roll the log out into a 10-inch square about 1 1/8 inch thick. Using a sharp knife, cut the dough into 1-inch strips and then cut across the strips at 2-inch intervals. Place the dough rectangles and all the sc.r.a.ps in one layer on the prepared tray. inch thick. Using a sharp knife, cut the dough into 1-inch strips and then cut across the strips at 2-inch intervals. Place the dough rectangles and all the sc.r.a.ps in one layer on the prepared tray.

6. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Once the soup has simmered for 1 hour, take the chicken pieces out with a slotted spoon or tongs and place them in a bowl to cool. Remove and discard the rosemary stem. Stir the cream into the simmering soup. Reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the soup hot while preparing the chicken. Once the soup has simmered for 1 hour, take the chicken pieces out with a slotted spoon or tongs and place them in a bowl to cool. Remove and discard the rosemary stem. Stir the cream into the simmering soup. Reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the soup hot while preparing the chicken.

7. Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, pull the meat off the bones, tear it into bite-sized pieces, place the pieces back in the bowl, and set aside. Discard the bones. Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, pull the meat off the bones, tear it into bite-sized pieces, place the pieces back in the bowl, and set aside. Discard the bones.

8. Bring the soup to a strong simmer over medium-high heat. Drop the dough rectangles and sc.r.a.ps, a few at a time, into the soup and stir gently. Cover and cook for 10 minutes. Stir in the chicken, sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, simmer for a minute longer, and serve. Bring the soup to a strong simmer over medium-high heat. Drop the dough rectangles and sc.r.a.ps, a few at a time, into the soup and stir gently. Cover and cook for 10 minutes. Stir in the chicken, sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, simmer for a minute longer, and serve.

Bread and Semolina Loaf Houskove Knedliky (Czech Republic) (Czech Republic) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES 1 1 DUMPLING DUMPLING).

Traditionally served with roast pork and sauerkraut, houskove knedliky houskove knedliky is a foolproof side to any meal that has plenty of sauce, roasted meat, or stewed vegetables. Bits of bread are mixed into a soft semolina dough, creating a glistening, slightly dense loaf. is a foolproof side to any meal that has plenty of sauce, roasted meat, or stewed vegetables. Bits of bread are mixed into a soft semolina dough, creating a glistening, slightly dense loaf. Houskove knedliky Houskove knedliky can also be sliced and turned into extra-soft French toast the next day, or it can be worked into your favorite bread pudding. can also be sliced and turned into extra-soft French toast the next day, or it can be worked into your favorite bread pudding.

For the Dumplings2 cups semolina flour, plus some extra for dusting2 teaspoons baking powder1 teaspoons salt1 large egg, beaten1 cups milk6 cups -inch crustless white bread cubes (see Glossary of Ingredients) 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Line a tray with a smooth kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little semolina flour. Line a tray with a smooth kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little semolina flour.

2. Place the semolina flour, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl and mix well. Add the eggs and milk and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Don't overmix. You will have a very moist sticky dough. Place the semolina flour, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl and mix well. Add the eggs and milk and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Don't overmix. You will have a very moist sticky dough.

3. Add 2 cups of the bread cubes and work them into the dough. For those new to this recipe it can feel strange to combine bread into dough, but it will come together as you knead. Continue kneading in the bread cubes, 2 cups at a time, until all the bread has been added. The end result will be a stiff, chunky dough. Add 2 cups of the bread cubes and work them into the dough. For those new to this recipe it can feel strange to combine bread into dough, but it will come together as you knead. Continue kneading in the bread cubes, 2 cups at a time, until all the bread has been added. The end result will be a stiff, chunky dough.

4. Shape the dough into a log about 9 inches long. Place on the prepared tray, cover, and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. Shape the dough into a log about 9 inches long. Place on the prepared tray, cover, and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

5. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large, wide pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Slide the dumpling gently into the water. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 15 minutes. Turn over the dumpling, or dumplings, cover, and cook for 10 minutes longer. Fill a large, wide pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Slide the dumpling gently into the water. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 15 minutes. Turn over the dumpling, or dumplings, cover, and cook for 10 minutes longer.

6. Carefully lift the Carefully lift the houskove knedliky houskove knedliky out of the pot with 2 slotted spoons and place on a serving plate. Let rest for 2 to 3 minutes. Serve with roasted meats and sauce. This dumpling is so tender that it's best to slice into it with a taut piece of fine string. out of the pot with 2 slotted spoons and place on a serving plate. Let rest for 2 to 3 minutes. Serve with roasted meats and sauce. This dumpling is so tender that it's best to slice into it with a taut piece of fine string. Houskove knedliky Houskove knedliky can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

Oat and Honey Pudding (Ireland) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES 1 1 DUMPLING DUMPLING).

Most of us tend to eat oatmeal in just one or two ways-cereal and cookies-but this oat and honey pudding is a great alternative to such cla.s.sics. Steamed oatmeal puddings come in dozens of varieties, but this particular version creates a dense cakelike pudding with the flavors of whole wheat and honey. If you don't want to use cherries, use raisins or any other dried fruit. Because the batter is made with a modest amount of honey, it's nice to drizzle a little extra honey over each slice. The oats in this recipe are not pressed, rolled, or instant. Steel-cut oats are used because of their longer cooking time, st.u.r.dy texture, and fresh oatmeal taste.

This dumpling is made using the Pudding Basin Setup.

For the Dumpling cup steel-cut oats cup sugar3 tablespoons honey, preferably raw4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted1 large egg, beaten1 teaspoon baking powder1/8 teaspoon salt teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon ground ginger cup unsweetened dried tart cherries (optional) cup whole wheat flourFor Cooking and ServingUnsalted b.u.t.ter and sugar to coat the pudding basinUnsalted b.u.t.ter and honey, preferably raw for servingEquipment24-inch square of muslin35-inch length of kitchen string4- to 5-cup pudding basinPot large enough to hold the basin when coveredParchment paper 1. MAKE THE BATTER 1 HOUR IN ADVANCE MAKE THE BATTER 1 HOUR IN ADVANCE: Bring 2 cups water to a boil in a small pot. Stir in the oats, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until creamy and thick, about 30 minutes. Scoop the oats into a large bowl, set them aside, and cool to room temperature. Bring 2 cups water to a boil in a small pot. Stir in the oats, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until creamy and thick, about 30 minutes. Scoop the oats into a large bowl, set them aside, and cool to room temperature.

2. Once the oats have cooled, add the sugar, honey, the melted b.u.t.ter, egg, baking powder, salt, nutmeg, ground ginger, and cherries and mix well. Fold in some of the whole wheat flour, a little at a time, until the batter just holds its shape when scooped up with a spoon. Once the oats have cooled, add the sugar, honey, the melted b.u.t.ter, egg, baking powder, salt, nutmeg, ground ginger, and cherries and mix well. Fold in some of the whole wheat flour, a little at a time, until the batter just holds its shape when scooped up with a spoon.

3. a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Setup. Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Setup.

4. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside.

5. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer.

6. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Scoop the batter into the basin and wiggle it gently to level it off. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Scoop the batter into the basin and wiggle it gently to level it off. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding.

7. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 1 hours, or up to 2 hours for a pudding that's even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 1 hours, or up to 2 hours for a pudding that's even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed.

8. Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot and put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve, topped with some b.u.t.ter and a spoonful of honey. The pudding can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot and put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve, topped with some b.u.t.ter and a spoonful of honey. The pudding can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips).

Graham Potato Buns (United States) SERVES UP TO UP TO 9 ( 9 (MAKES 9 9 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These steamed graham potato buns are easy to make and are equally marvelous with honey or jam or smothered in a savory sauce. They satisfy cravings for freshly made whole wheat bread and are just right for sandwiches. The potato softens the texture of the graham flour and turns what would otherwise be a dense dough into something spongy and delicate. Leftover mashed potatoes can be used as long as they have only a little b.u.t.ter or milk, but such creamy accents will require the addition of a little more white flour to the dough. For a denser whole wheat steamed bun, try Ting Momo Ting Momo (February). (February).

For the Dumplings cup warm milk2 teaspoons sugar1 teaspoons active dry yeast (about packet) cup riced or well-mashed potato (about 1 small baking potato)2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil11/3 cups graham flour cups graham flour2/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting teaspoon saltFor CookingGrapeseed or other neutral oil to coat the cake panEquipment2-inch-high steamer rack9-inch round cake panPot large enough to hold both the rack and the pan when covered 1. PROOF THE YEAST PROOF THE YEAST: Pour the milk into a large bowl, stir in the sugar and the yeast, and proof for 15 minutes. The surface should become foamy. If not, start again with a new yeast packet. Mix in the mashed potato and the oil. Pour the milk into a large bowl, stir in the sugar and the yeast, and proof for 15 minutes. The surface should become foamy. If not, start again with a new yeast packet. Mix in the mashed potato and the oil.

2. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Combine the graham flour and all-purpose flour in a large bowl. Scoop out and set aside cup. Add the salt to the mixture that remains and mix well. Pour in the potato and yeast mixture and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If it is too wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour mixture, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Combine the graham flour and all-purpose flour in a large bowl. Scoop out and set aside cup. Add the salt to the mixture that remains and mix well. Pour in the potato and yeast mixture and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If it is too wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour mixture, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

3. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 3 to 5 minutes. The dough will be soft and tacky. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with a kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm and dark place until the dough doubles in size, 1 to 2 hours. Use the Proofing Pot Setup (Tips) if the temperature of the room is not ideal. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 3 to 5 minutes. The dough will be soft and tacky. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with a kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm and dark place until the dough doubles in size, 1 to 2 hours. Use the Proofing Pot Setup (Tips) if the temperature of the room is not ideal.

4. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Coat the bottom and sides of the cake pan with oil. Coat the bottom and sides of the cake pan with oil.

5. Punch down the dough, place it on a floured surface, and knead once or twice. Divide the dough into 9 equal pieces. Knead each piece once or twice, then roll into a ball. Once all the dough has been rolled into b.a.l.l.s, arrange them evenly within the prepared cake pan. The dough b.a.l.l.s should be close enough to just barely touch each other. Cover with a kitchen towel and set aside while preparing the steamer. Punch down the dough, place it on a floured surface, and knead once or twice. Divide the dough into 9 equal pieces. Knead each piece once or twice, then roll into a ball. Once all the dough has been rolled into b.a.l.l.s, arrange them evenly within the prepared cake pan. The dough b.a.l.l.s should be close enough to just barely touch each other. Cover with a kitchen towel and set aside while preparing the steamer.

6. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Place a steamer rack into the pot, add 1 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the filled cake pan into the pot. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 30 minutes. Place a steamer rack into the pot, add 1 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the filled cake pan into the pot. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 30 minutes.

7. Remove the pot from the heat, carefully lift the cake pan out of the pot, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the buns to cool slightly. Remove them from the pan individually or as a segmented loaf. Serve warm or at room temperature. Graham potato buns can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen buns, allow them to thaw before steaming. Remove the pot from the heat, carefully lift the cake pan out of the pot, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the buns to cool slightly. Remove them from the pan individually or as a segmented loaf. Serve warm or at room temperature. Graham potato buns can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen buns, allow them to thaw before steaming.

Layered Apple and Bread Pudding (United States) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 5 ( 5 (MAKES 1 1 DUMPLING DUMPLING).

This great apple dessert may have a somewhat sloppy look when turned out of its basin, but once sliced it shows off its layers beautifully and tastes absolutely wonderful. The condensed milk brings a rich, long-cooked flavor to the bread and apples, while coating the basin with dark sugar adds a tempting caramelized coating.

This dumpling is made using the Pudding Basin Setup.

For the Dumpling4 cups -inch crustless white bread cubes (see Glossary of Ingredients)6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks4 crisp, tart apples, such as Granny Smith2 tablespoons light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients) teaspoon whole cloves, finely crushed teaspoon ground gingerFor the Custard Sauce cup milk cup sweetened condensed milk3 large eggs, beaten3 tablespoons light muscovado or other unrefined sugar teaspoon ground cinnamon1/8 teaspoon salt teaspoon saltFor Cooking and ServingUnsalted b.u.t.ter and sugar to coat the pudding basin1 recipe Vanilla Custard Sauce, Sweetened Whipped Cream, or vanilla ice creamEquipment24-inch square of muslin35-inch length of kitchen string4- to 5-cup pudding basinPot large enough to hold the basin when coveredParchment paper 1. PREPARE THE BREAD AND THE APPLES PREPARE THE BREAD AND THE APPLES: Place the bread cubes in a large bowl. Melt 4 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet, drizzle it over the bread cubes, and toss with your fingers until evenly combined. Place the bread cubes in a large bowl. Melt 4 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet, drizzle it over the bread cubes, and toss with your fingers until evenly combined.

2. Peel, core, and slice the apples into thin wedges. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a skillet over high heat. Add the apples and stir frequently until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Mix in the 2 tablespoons sugar, the cloves, and the ginger. Reduce the heat to low and cook until the apples soften and turn golden brown, about 2 minutes longer. Scoop the apples into a bowl and set aside to cool. Peel, core, and slice the apples into thin wedges. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a skillet over high heat. Add the apples and stir frequently until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Mix in the 2 tablespoons sugar, the cloves, and the ginger. Reduce the heat to low and cook until the apples soften and turn golden brown, about 2 minutes longer. Scoop the apples into a bowl and set aside to cool.

3. MAKE THE CUSTARD SAUCE MAKE THE CUSTARD SAUCE: Combine the milk and the condensed milk in a small saucepan and place over medium heat until it begins to bubble at the sides of the pan. Do not allow it to come to a full simmer. Immediately remove from the heat and set aside. Combine the milk and the condensed milk in a small saucepan and place over medium heat until it begins to bubble at the sides of the pan. Do not allow it to come to a full simmer. Immediately remove from the heat and set aside.

4. Whisk together the eggs, 3 tablespoons sugar, cinnamon, and salt in a large bowl until smooth. Continue to whisk vigorously while gradually drizzling in the warm milk mixture. Whisk together the eggs, 3 tablespoons sugar, cinnamon, and salt in a large bowl until smooth. Continue to whisk vigorously while gradually drizzling in the warm milk mixture.

5. a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Setup. Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Setup.

6. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside. Have ready the bread, cooked apples, and custard sauce. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside. Have ready the bread, cooked apples, and custard sauce.

7. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer.

8. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Arrange an overlapping single layer of the apple slices on the bottom of the basin. Divide the rest of the apples into 2 equal piles. Divide the bread cubes into 3 equal piles. Spread 1 pile of bread on top of the apples already in the basin, followed by another layer of apples, a second layer of bread, another layer of apples, and then a final layer of bread. Slowly drizzle the custard sauce evenly over the top. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the custard-soaked layers. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding. Place it in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Arrange an overlapping single layer of the apple slices on the bottom of the basin. Divide the rest of the apples into 2 equal piles. Divide the bread cubes into 3 equal piles. Spread 1 pile of bread on top of the apples already in the basin, followed by another layer of apples, a second layer of bread, another layer of apples, and then a final layer of bread. Slowly drizzle the custard sauce evenly over the top. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the custard-soaked layers. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding. Place it in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes.

9. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 2 hours, or up to 3 hours for a pudding that's even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 2 hours, or up to 3 hours for a pudding that's even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed.

10. Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve warm, topped with Vanilla Custard Sauce, Sweetened Whipped Cream, or vanilla ice cream. The pudding can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve warm, topped with Vanilla Custard Sauce, Sweetened Whipped Cream, or vanilla ice cream. The pudding can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips).

Beef and Oyster Stew with Suet Dumplings (England) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES 12 12 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Suet dumplings are a cla.s.sic pairing with beef and oyster stew. They're best made with unrendered suet, but if you want a subtler suet taste you should render it (see Glossary of Ingredients), chill it until firm, rub it into the flour, and then continue with the recipe. Fresh oysters can be found sh.e.l.led and in tubs at some fish shops, specialty shops, or markets. Be sure to keep all the liquid that comes with the oysters, because you will use it in the stew.

For the Stew pound bacon, chopped coa.r.s.e2 pounds beef stew meat, cut into 2-inch pieces1 medium yellow onion, chopped coa.r.s.e1 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour1 cup brown ale1 tablespoon Worcesters.h.i.+re sauce2 teaspoons tomato paste6 fresh thyme sprigs or 2 teaspoons dried teaspoon freshly grated mace or nutmeg teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 quart Beef Broth with British Flavors12 large white b.u.t.ton mushrooms15 large fresh sage leaves, chopped coa.r.s.e20 to 25 freshly shucked oysters, undrained (just over 1 cup)For the Dumplings1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour1 teaspoons baking powder teaspoon salt cup very finely chopped cold suet2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves cup cold water 1. MAKE THE STEW MAKE THE STEW: Place the bacon in a large, wide pot over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until it has rendered enough fat to generously coat the bottom of the pot. Add the beef and stir occasionally until golden brown on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, move the beef and the bacon to a bowl, leaving behind the oily fat. Stir the onion into the fat and cook for 2 minutes. Sprinkle in the 1 tablespoons flour and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is a dark, caramel brown, about 8 minutes. Place the bacon in a large, wide pot over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until it has rendered enough fat to generously coat the bottom of the pot. Add the beef and stir occasionally until golden brown on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, move the beef and the bacon to a bowl, leaving behind the oily fat. Stir the onion into the fat and cook for 2 minutes. Sprinkle in the 1 tablespoons flour and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is a dark, caramel brown, about 8 minutes.

2. Stir the ale into the onion mixture and sc.r.a.pe up the bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Let the mixture come to a simmer and reduce slightly, about 2 minutes. Stir in the Worcesters.h.i.+re sauce, tomato paste, thyme, mace, salt, and pepper. Return the beef, bacon, and any of their drippings back into the pot. Pour in the broth, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the beef is fork-tender, about 2 hours. (You can also make the stew in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days. Bring the stew back to a simmer before adding the mushrooms, sage, and the oysters. If the stew is too thick to stir easily, add a little water to thin it out.) Stir the ale into the onion mixture and sc.r.a.pe up the bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Let the mixture come to a simmer and reduce slightly, about 2 minutes. Stir in the Worcesters.h.i.+re sauce, tomato paste, thyme, mace, salt, and pepper. Return the beef, bacon, and any of their drippings back into the pot. Pour in the broth, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the beef is fork-tender, about 2 hours. (You can also make the stew in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days. Bring the stew back to a simmer before adding the mushrooms, sage, and the oysters. If the stew is too thick to stir easily, add a little water to thin it out.) 3. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Toward the end of the beef's cooking time, combine the 1 cup flour, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Add and rub the suet completely into the flour mixture with your finger, making sure there are no bulky clumps. Mix in the parsley. Pour in the cold water and mix until you have a thick, slightly lumpy batter. Do not overmix. Cover and set aside. Toward the end of the beef's cooking time, combine the 1 cup flour, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Add and rub the suet completely into the flour mixture with your finger, making sure there are no bulky clumps. Mix in the parsley. Pour in the cold water and mix until you have a thick, slightly lumpy batter. Do not overmix. Cover and set aside.

4. FINISH THE STEW AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS FINISH THE STEW AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Once the beef has finished cooking, cut the mushrooms into -inch slices. Stir the mushrooms and sage into the stew, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes. Once the beef has finished cooking, cut the mushrooms into -inch slices. Stir the mushrooms and sage into the stew, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes.

5. Stir in the oysters and all of their juices. There should be just enough liquid in the stew to cover the beef. (Mix in a little water if needed. Once the stew returns to a simmer, you can immediately begin to add the dumplings.) Scoop up a heaping tablespoon of batter. Use another spoon or your finger to move the batter gently off the spoon and onto the surface of the stew. Drop remaining spoonfuls of batter as close together as possible without their touching. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Uncover and cook for 3 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and serve. Stir in the oysters and all of their juices. There should be just enough liquid in the stew to cover the beef. (Mix in a little water if needed. Once the stew returns to a simmer, you can immediately begin to add the dumplings.) Scoop up a heaping tablespoon of batter. Use another spoon or your finger to move the batter gently off the spoon and onto the surface of the stew. Drop remaining spoonfuls of batter as close together as possible without their touching. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Uncover and cook for 3 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and serve.

Mild Yogurt Semolina Cakes Rava Idli (India) (India) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 5 ( 5 (MAKES ABOUT 20 20 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Rava idli are nutty, b.u.t.tery, and quite different from the cleaner-tasting are nutty, b.u.t.tery, and quite different from the cleaner-tasting Sada Idli Sada Idli (July). The toasting of the dry ingredients, especially the ground semolina, is what makes these dumplings so fragrant and tasty. A little bit of yogurt gives the batter an instant tang that other rice-based (July). The toasting of the dry ingredients, especially the ground semolina, is what makes these dumplings so fragrant and tasty. A little bit of yogurt gives the batter an instant tang that other rice-based idli idli batters develop only after hours (or sometimes days) of natural fermentation, so this batter doesn't need the warmer months to help develop its zingy flavor-the yogurt does the job. Like batters develop only after hours (or sometimes days) of natural fermentation, so this batter doesn't need the warmer months to help develop its zingy flavor-the yogurt does the job. Like sada idli, rava idli sada idli, rava idli are often served with vegetable sambhar and coconut chutney. are often served with vegetable sambhar and coconut chutney. Idli Idli molds-round metal plates with perforated round depressions-are usually sold in stacks or "trees" so that as many molds-round metal plates with perforated round depressions-are usually sold in stacks or "trees" so that as many idli idli as possible can be steamed at once. You can buy as possible can be steamed at once. You can buy idli idli trees at most Indian supermarkets. trees at most Indian supermarkets.

For the Dumplings cup peeled black gram (urad dal) (urad dal) teaspoon black or brown mustard seeds cup coa.r.s.ely ground semolina flour (sooji (sooji or or rava rava)1 cup nonchlorinated water, such as distilled or spring water cup plain whole-milk yogurt1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger teaspoon baking soda1 teaspoon saltFor Cooking and ServingGrapeseed or other neutral oil to coat the idli idli molds molds1 recipe each Vegetable Sambhar and Coconut ChutneyEquipmentPot large enough to hold the idli idli tree when covered tree when coveredIdli tree with 3 or 4 layers tree with 3 or 4 layers 1. MAKE THE BATTER 4 TO 6 HOURS IN ADVANCE MAKE THE BATTER 4 TO 6 HOURS IN ADVANCE: Toast the black gram in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring or shaking the pan constantly, until it is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Place in a small bowl, cover with plenty of water, and soak for 2 to 3 hours. Toast the black gram in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring or shaking the pan constantly, until it is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Place in a small bowl, cover with plenty of water, and soak for 2 to 3 hours.

2. Combine the mustard seeds and the semolina flour in the same skillet and toast over medium heat. Stir the mixture until the semolina is lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Place the mixture in a large bowl and set aside. Combine the mustard seeds and the semolina flour in the same skillet and toast over medium heat. Stir the mixture until the semolina is lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Place the mixture in a large bowl and set aside.

3. Drain the black gram and turn it into a food processor. Pour in cup of the nonchlorinated water and process until the mixture is frothy and slightly gritty, about 2 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Drain the black gram and turn it into a food processor. Pour in cup of the nonchlorinated water and process until the mixture is frothy and slightly gritty, about 2 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go.

4. Add the black gram mixture to the toasted semolina along with the yogurt, ginger, and the rest of the nonchlorinated water and mix well. Cover with a cloth and rest at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours. The batter will swell slightly and look a little softer. Add the black gram mixture to the toasted semolina along with the yogurt, ginger, and the rest of the nonchlorinated water and mix well. Cover with a cloth and rest at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours. The batter will swell slightly and look a little softer.

5. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Add 1 inch of water to the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Detach the layers of the Add 1 inch of water to the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Detach the layers of the idli idli tree and coat each mold with a little oil. tree and coat each mold with a little oil.

6. Add the baking soda and the salt to the batter and mix gently. Add the baking soda and the salt to the batter and mix gently.

7. Fill each mold with 2 heaping tablespoons of batter. a.s.semble the Fill each mold with 2 heaping tablespoons of batter. a.s.semble the idli idli tree and carefully insert it into the pot. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 20 minutes. tree and carefully insert it into the pot. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 20 minutes.

8. Remove the pot from the heat. Place the Remove the pot from the heat. Place the idli idli tree on a folded kitchen towel and let the tree on a folded kitchen towel and let the rava idli rava idli cool slightly. Using a b.u.t.ter knife or a small spatula, unmold them gently and keep warm. Cook the remaining batter, and serve with Vegetable Sambhar and Coconut Chutney. cool slightly. Using a b.u.t.ter knife or a small spatula, unmold them gently and keep warm. Cook the remaining batter, and serve with Vegetable Sambhar and Coconut Chutney.

Buckwheat Dumplings Stuffed with Apples and Cheese Vareniki s Yablokami (Russia) (Russia) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES ABOUT 40 40 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These dumplings are often stuffed with blueberries or cherries, but because a fair amount of sugar is needed to balance out the natural tartness of such fruit, they can be quite sweet. Apple-filled varieties need less sugar, and they don't overwhelm the more delicate flavors of the farmer cheese. Forcing the cheese through a sieve a few times gives you a much finer curd, and when the curds are tiny they cling to the apple better.

These dumplings are made using the Half-Moon Fold.

For the Dough1 cups light buckwheat flour cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting teaspoon salt2 large eggs, beatenFor the Filling1 teaspoon poppy seeds1 cup soft farmer cheese, drained for 1 hour (see Glossary of Ingredients), or 1 cups cottage cheese, drained for 4 to 8 hours1 large egg yolk 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice and teaspoon grated zest1 large crisp, tart apple, such as Granny Smith or GalaFor Serving3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted just before servingSour cream and sugar for servingEquipment2-inch round cookie cutterLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Combine the flours in a large bowl. Scoop out and set aside cup. Add the salt, eggs, and cup water to the mixture that remains and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the reserved flour mixture, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Knead the dough in the bowl for 2 to 3 minutes, sprinkling with a little all-purpose flour if it gets sticky. Cover and let it rest for 15 minutes. Combine the flours in a large bowl. Scoop out and set aside cup. Add the salt, eggs, and cup water to the mixture that remains and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the reserved flour mixture, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Knead the dough in the bowl for 2 to 3 minutes, sprinkling with a little all-purpose flour if it gets sticky. Cover and let it rest for 15 minutes.

2. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Toast the poppy seeds in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly for 2 minutes. Immediately move them to a small bowl to cool. Toast the poppy seeds in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly for 2 minutes. Immediately move them to a small bowl to cool.

3. Hold a fine-mesh sieve over a bowl and push the drained farmer cheese through it with a wooden spoon or a rubber spatula. Hold a fine-mesh sieve over a bowl and push the drained farmer cheese through it with a wooden spoon or a rubber spatula.

4. Combine the cheese, egg yolk, 1 tablespoon sugar, lemon juice, zest, and poppy seeds in a medium bowl. Peel, core, and cut the apple into -inch cubes, then stir it into the cheese mixture. Combine the cheese, egg yolk, 1 tablespoon sugar, lemon juice, zest, and poppy seeds in a medium bowl. Peel, core, and cut the apple into -inch cubes, then stir it into the cheese mixture.

5. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the vareniki s yablokami, vareniki s yablokami, review the Half-Moon Fold. review the Half-Moon Fold.

6. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little all-purpose flour. Have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little all-purpose flour. Have ready the dough and the filling.

7. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, then divide it in half. Roll one piece into a ball and roll it out until it's about Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, then divide it in half. Roll one piece into a ball and roll it out until it's about 1 1/8 inch thick. inch thick.

8. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 18 to 20. Collect all sc.r.a.ps from around the rounds and put aside under a damp kitchen towel for later use. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 18 to 20. Collect all sc.r.a.ps from around the rounds and put aside under a damp kitchen towel for later use.

9. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Center a rounded teaspoon of filling on top of each round, fold each neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Combine all the dough sc.r.a.ps, knead them into a ball, roll it out, cut out as many rounds as you can, and fill and fold those too. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Center a rounded teaspoon of filling on top of each round, fold each neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Combine all the dough sc.r.a.ps, knead them into a ball, roll it out, cut out as many rounds as you can, and fill and fold those too.

10. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with lightly salted water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with lightly salted water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

11. Gently drop up to 20 dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. Gently drop up to 20 dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer.

12. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings, place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid, and keep warm. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings, place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid, and keep warm.

13. Drain the Drain the vareniki s yablokami vareniki s yablokami and place them in a shallow serving bowl. Drizzle with the melted b.u.t.ter, top with spoonfuls of sour cream, sprinkle with sugar, and serve. and place them in a shallow serving bowl. Drizzle with the melted b.u.t.ter, top with spoonfuls of sour cream, sprinkle with sugar, and serve.

Potato Dumplings Stuffed with Sugar-Stuffed Plums vestkove Knedliky (Czech Republic) (Czech Republic) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 20 20 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Make these dumplings with Italian plums that are perfectly ripe. Overripe plums will break down too much during cooking, while underripe plums will cause you to overcook the dough while you wait for the plums to cook all the way through. Italian plums are small and oval and most often have a deep purple-black skin. Their flesh is sweet and sticky, and when cooked inside a layer of dough they soften into a pulpy jam. A cream topping adds to the experience and is nearly as important to this dish as the plums themselves. Farmer cheese is also a great topping. A generous sprinkling of fried bread crumbs adds crunch and a toasted flavor. If you are new to potato dough, it is delicate, and you might want to first gain experience with a simpler potato dumpling like Kartoffelklosse Kartoffelklosse (November) or (November) or Kluski Kluski l l skie skie (February). (February).

For the Dough4 medium baking potatoes, such as russet1 teaspoon salt1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting1 large egg, beatenFor the Filling cup sugar1 tablespoons ground cinnamon20 ripe but firm Italian plums, unpeeled, cut in half, pits removed, and the halves kept togetherFor Serving3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted just before serving cup heavy cream or farmer cheese cup fried bread crumbs (see Glossary of Ingredients)EquipmentPotato ricerLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place the potatoes in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover them, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and place the potatoes on a folded kitchen towel. Once they're cool enough to handle, peel off their skins, cut them into chunks, and press them through the ricer into a large bowl. Set aside to cool to room temperature. Place the potatoes in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover them, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and place the potatoes on a folded kitchen towel. Once they're cool enough to handle, peel off their skins, cut them into chunks, and press them through the ricer into a large bowl. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

2. Sprinkle the salt and 1 cup of the flour onto the riced potatoes, keeping the remaining cup handy. Toss with your fingers until mixed evenly. Add the egg and work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Sprinkle the salt and 1 cup of the flour onto the riced potatoes, keeping the remaining cup handy. Toss with your fingers until mixed evenly. Add the egg and work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

3. Knead the dough in the bowl for 1 minute. The dough will be smooth, soft, and somewhat delicate. Knead the dough in the bowl for 1 minute. The dough will be smooth, soft, and somewhat delicate.

4. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Combine the sugar and cinnamon in a bowl. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Also have ready the dough and the plums. Combine the sugar and cinnamon in a bowl. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Also have ready the dough and the plums.

5. Pinch off a piece of dough about the size of the plums and roll it into a ball. Place it on a floured surface and pat it out into a flat 3-inch round. Place half a plum, skin side down, in the center of the round. Spoon 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon-sugar into the hollow of the plum and top with the other half of the plum, cut side down. Lift the edges of the dough up and around the plum until they meet and gently pinch them enough to seal. Carefully grip the a.s.sembled dumpling between both palms and mold the dough by pressing and packing it around the shape of the fruit. Roll the dumpling between your palms to smooth out its look, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough, plums, and cinnamon-sugar. Pinch off a piece of dough about the size of the plums and roll it into a ball. Place it on a floured surface and pat it out into a flat 3-inch round. Place half a plum, skin side down, in the center of the round. Spoon 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon-sugar into the hollow of the plum and top with the other half of the plum, cut side down. Lift the edges of the dough up and around the plum until they meet and gently pinch them enough to seal. Carefully grip the a.s.sembled dumpling between both palms and mold the dough by pressing and packing it around the shape of the fruit. Roll the dumpling between your palms to smooth out its look, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough, plums, and cinnamon-sugar.

6. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Gently drop in up to 10 dumplings. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Simmer until the dumplings float to the surface, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 to 4 minutes longer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Gently drop in up to 10 dumplings. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Simmer until the dumplings float to the surface, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 to 4 minutes longer.

7. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking, and keep warm. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking, and keep warm. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid.

8. Drain the Drain the vestkove knedliky vestkove knedliky and place them in a shallow serving bowl. Drizzle with the melted b.u.t.ter and serve topped with cream or farmer cheese and a sprinkling of fried bread crumbs. and place them in a shallow serving bowl. Drizzle with the melted b.u.t.ter and serve topped with cream or farmer cheese and a sprinkling of fried bread crumbs.

Leaf-Wrapped Rice Packages Stuffed with Peanuts and Sausage Zhong Zi (China) (China) SERVES 6 ( 6 (MAKES 6 6 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Bamboo leafwrapped zhong zi zhong zi are firm packages of sticky rice, stuffed with a variety of fillings, that have been boiled patiently for hours. Wrapping and tying these dumplings tightly gives them their dense, satisfying chew, as well as their ability to remain fresh for days at room temperature. While they are usually wrapped expertly in a pyramid shape, there is a much less complicated fold that works just as well. are firm packages of sticky rice, stuffed with a variety of fillings, that have been boiled patiently for hours. Wrapping and tying these dumplings tightly gives them their dense, satisfying chew, as well as their ability to remain fresh for days at room temperature. While they are usually wrapped expertly in a pyramid shape, there is a much less complicated fold that works just as well.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Bamboo-Leaf Fold.

For the Dumplings2 cups medium-grain sweet (glutinous) white rice, preferably from China or j.a.pan, rinsed and soaked in plenty of water for 2 to 3 hours1 tablespoons salt pound pork belly, trimmed of skin, cut into 6 equal pieces, rubbed with 1 teaspoons salt, covered, and refrigerated for at least 6 hours and up to 1 day cup raw peanuts, papery skins removed1 link Chinese pork sausage (la chang) (la chang), cut into 6 equal pieces (optional)For a.s.sembly20 prepared bamboo leaves (see Glossary of Equipment)Six 60-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the zhong zi zhong ziFor ServingSoy sauce 1. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the zhong zi, zhong zi, review the Bamboo-Leaf Fold. review the Bamboo-Leaf Fold.

2. Drain the rice, place it in a medium bowl, and mix in the salt. Drain the rice, place it in a medium bowl, and mix in the salt.

3. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the salted rice, pork, peanuts, sausage, if desired, bamboo leaves, and ties. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the salted rice, pork, peanuts, sausage, if desired, bamboo leaves, and ties.