Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51 Volume Ii Part 11

Mohammed Tunisee has done him great harm; but, nevertheless, this chap continues to improve since the arrangement made, by which he becomes only the servant of Barth. The Germans, however, are still afraid of him. Yusuf is trying the same system with me, but will probably find that it will end in no good affair for himself. Mohammed Tunisee and Yusuf seem hitherto to have combined to spoil all our people. The liberated slaves from Tunis, brought up by me, have turned out the best and most faithful servants. I am much pleased with this.

All the people of Damerghou are afflicted with ophthalmia, which is said to arise from the winds that prevail constantly over this open and unsheltered country. Some of the people pretend it is caused by drinking ghaseb-water, which appears absurd enough. The Moorish and other merchants attribute the greater part of their diseases to drinking water,--especially the fevers. How much truth there is in this a.s.sertion is not easy to be determined.

_11th._--It has been agreed that I and my colleagues should here part for a time, Dr. Barth going to Kanou, and Dr. Overweg to Tesaoua and Maradee, whilst I proceed with En-Noor direct to Zinder. Dr. Barth promises to be in Kuka in two months; and Dr. Overweg says he will immediately correspond, that is from Tesaoua to Zinder. The latter has the more difficult journey before him; but even Dr. Barth's visit to Kanou may turn out a more serious business than perhaps he antic.i.p.ates.

We took leave one of the other with some emotion; for in Central Africa, those travellers who part and take divergent routes can scarcely count on all meeting together again.

I also here parted with Amankee, my Haussa servant. He had behaved indifferently lately, but nevertheless, as he rendered us some service in the acquirement of the Haussa languages, and in other matters, I made him a present of four dollars for one extra time he had remained with us. He had been paid his wages at Mourzuk to go with us to Zinder, but then we expected to be only three months _en route_. In a moment, just as we were starting, he changed his mind, and would go to his home at once. This is his character,--levity and instability,--otherwise he is a good fellow enough. He is one of those Tuaricks who have settled in Haussa and forgotten their native tongue. I have been often obliged to use harsh language to him, to curb his levity. In parting with the servants of the Germans, I promised them each a present of six dollars if I heard a good report of them on their arrival at Kuka. This present is held out as an inducement because it is impossible to tell what may happen, as the Germans will nearly always be without any special escort.

En-Noor, however, sends one of his slaves with Overweg to Maradee, and Barth goes with the salt-caravan to Kanou.

I was much disappointed that we made but one hour this morning (south).

To pa.s.s the time, I determined to visit some of the villages with which Damerghou is overscattered. I went first to a place called Fumta Bou Beker, twenty-five minutes from our encampment. Here I found the Sheikh, who had just returned from Kanou,--a considerable merchant. He received me with great hospitality, and gave me ghaseb-water, and some little pieces of meat, roasted, besides milk. I was accompanied by my stupid mahadee, who is, nevertheless, not a bad market-man. He purchased a large calabash of milk, and a peck of beans, for some small pieces of jaui, or benzoin. I then administered caustic to all the eyes of the village--at least sixty persons--including men, women, and children, with the Sheikh. Bad eyes were the only pressing complaints of the place.

The villagers all spoke Bornouese. I believe this is the general language of Damerghou. There were only two or three Tuaricks present.

Most of the people were free. The Sheikh, of course, had several slaves; amongst them a Yakobah slave, with straight lines cicatrised in curious patterns all over his body. The poor fellow seemed remarkably stupid, and I believe that many of these poor fellows brought from the more distant countries of Soudan become half idiots from continually regretting their beloved country. Alas! what can be done for Africa, when the greater part of its social system is constructed on slavery?

Curious applications are made for medicines to cure various afflictions, moral and physical, amongst these people. A woman, to-day, begged for a medicine to prevent her children from dying. She had had many children, and all had died. Another woman applies for a medicine to prevent her husband from liking her rival, and to make him place his affection on her. A man demands medicine for good luck, and says he is always unfortunate.--Good people, I am not the physician to be called in in these cases.

It is night, and En-Noor has not made his appearance. I am travelling with his wife and the other women; besides, there are a number of male slaves and some thirty camels of salt. Probably his highness will go another way to Zinder.

I believe that Fumta Bou Beker is quite an independent village, and that all the great towns and villages here have an independent jurisdiction of their own. According to a slave of En-Noor, there are two sultans.

_12th._--The morning was cool and windy. We started pretty early, and moved one hour through huts scattered amidst the ghaseb stubble. Then came three hours of undulating ground, uncultivated. Afterwards we fell in with huts again; and in two hours more reached the conical-shaped mount called Boban Birni. It consists of a sort of coa.r.s.e sandstone and is in part overgrown with herbage. From the encampment to Mount Boban Birni was a distance of six hours S.W. It can be seen from afar off, though in reality not very lofty. We pa.s.sed the mount for two hours through a forest of dwarf trees; the country still billowy, as it were.

We advanced in all about eight hours, braced by a pleasant north-east wind. As we advanced we saw ostriches quietly feeding at no great distance, not heeding our caravan as it murmured by. Partridges rose as we advanced; together with guinea-hens, blackbirds, crows, black and white, and several long-tailed flutterers.

_13th._--The morning was overcast, with cold wind. We started early, and made a long day of nine hours and a-half, and did not encamp until an hour after dark. Our course, as we ascended from Mount Boban Birni, was S. 3 E. The country still undulated through the same forest, which in many places was quite dense, whilst in others the trees were scattered.

When we reached the camping-ground a pleasant announcement was made. We were at length upon Bornou soil! I could hardly believe my ears. Oh, marvel, after all our dangers and misgivings! Thanks to Almighty G.o.d for deliverance from the hands of lawless tribes! I shall never forget the sensation with which I learned that I was at length really in Bornou, and that the robber Tuarick was in very truth definitively left behind.

Our encampment was near a little village of twenty huts, called Daazzenai, placed under a rock of red stone. The country of Damerghou, in this direction, is separated from Bornou by about eleven hours of forest, or some thirty miles English--a sufficient distance to divide two countries, especially in Africa. The trees were larger to-day, and some of considerable alt.i.tude. Many pretty yellow blossoms, glowed on a species of shrub not unlike the laburnum.

I observed scattered in the forest small mounds of mud, wasting away to the level of the ground; there were many of them; the birds perch thereon.

We have seen a few nice families amongst the Tuaricks and their slaves, but these are mostly foreigners. There is the family of the Tripoline slave; her husband is a pleasant, quiet man, and one of En-Noor's household; she has a daughter and one cade-lamb. Then there is the Bornou fighi and his wife. These people are so affable, that they always have visitors near their little tent. They have also a cade-lamb. Their tent is a curiosity. It is just large enough for one of them to creep in--not for two. I suppose the fighi enters at night, and leaves his wife to sleep at the door.

A detachment of the salt-caravan pa.s.sed us to-day for Zinder. The whole force of the salt-caravan this year could not be more than fifteen hundred. Two divisions were with us of Kailouees, one in advance, each of five hundred, and the Kilgris' division of five hundred. So much for the boasted ten thousand camels which were gone this year to bring salt!

From En-Noor one could not possibly get correct statistics, for, being a thorough Kailouee and a Tuarick, he magnifies everything connected with his people before strangers, and particularly to us. It was very amusing to see all the little children warming themselves in the evening at the fire, or feeding the flames with brushwood, which they easily collected.

CHAPTER XI.

March for Zinder--Enter the City--Reception--Delighted to escape from the Tuaricks--Letters from Kuka--Hospitable Treatment--Presents for the Sarkee and others--Visit the Shereef--His Duties--Audience of the Sarkee--Servility--Double-skulled Slave--Powder and Shot--Portrait of the Sultan--Commission from Kuka--European Clothes--Family of En-Noor--Tour of the Town--Scavengers--List of Sultans of Central Africa--Ancient Haussa--The Market--Money--Conversation with the Shereef--The Sultan at Home--Mixed Race of Zinder--Statistics--Personages of the Court.

_Jan. 14th._--We started early, in hopes to reach Zinder in the course of the morning. Our course of five hours was S. 10 E. from the encampment. The route from En-Noor's palace in Damerghou is two good days and a-half. After two hours and a-half we came to huts in a valley, and a village of thirty or forty houses, called Boban Tabki. In three quarters of an hour there were villages again. I was pleased to see the corn-stacks or field-granaries standing in the open country, apart from all houses or habitations, ill.u.s.trating the security of property in Zinder and its neighbouring districts. The country all around is pleasant, nicely undulating with ridges of green hills--the horizon bounded on every side with rounded green hills.

We sighted Zinder after four hours' march; and entered the town within another hour. I was somewhat impatient to get rid of the Tuaricks, and place myself in the hands of the Bornou authorities; so I rode off myself to the town, leaving the suburbs, where the family of En-Noor have their residence, deaf to all their cries to stop. I found a friendly Kailouee, who conducted me straight to the house of the governor. His servants took me to the Shereef, and the Shereef sent me to Sad, my servant, where I found a house and everything prepared for my reception; and here, also, I found a slave sent from Bornou by the Sheikh, to conduct me to Kuka: so all things wore a happy aspect after so many miseries and uncertainties.

I was delighted with the appearance of Zinder, its picturesque situation, and its unexpected size. It is much larger than I was led to expect. As soon as I was domiciled I received visits from several merchants of Mourzuk, besides the authorities of the town. All the sons of the Sultan of the place came to salute me; I gave them each a little sugar, and off they went highly pleased. Provisions now poured in at such a rate, that after the starvation of the desert I became nauseated at their sight. These were sent by the Sultan and the Shereef.

Thankful satisfaction for my deliverance from the wild tribes, the most hostile to Christians of all this part of Africa, and fond antic.i.p.ations of what I may do in Bornou; the good news I already heard, and the anxiety of the Sheikh for our safety, with my comparatively robust health;--thoughts of all these things prevented me from sleeping during the night.

I learnt from Sad, servant of Haj Bes.h.i.+r, that letters had arrived from Mourzuk for us in Kuka, and one was addressed to the Sheikh, which had determined him to bring us all at once to Kuka, and prevent us going first to Soudan. Upon this advice, the Sultan of this place had sent four persons to Tesaoua, to bring my colleagues from that place. But whether they will come on the demand of these persons is very questionable. I learned that the Sfaxee, as I expected, was laid up with fever in Kanou, for he is emphatically a man of fever; and, besides, he has no control over himself, but gorges himself with food when an opportunity presents itself; and this, after the privations of the desert, is sure to bring on disease. Yusuf Moknee came to me this evening, to know what was to be done on the next morning. He finds it necessary to alter his conduct, as he sees now that I could do without him. I determined to go on with him for the present. I do not wish to leave him here with En-Noor, for he may do us harm with that subtle Kailouee prince. I must take him away from the Tuaricks altogether.

I found all the Mourzuk people very friendly--everybody friendly; the world seemed turned upside down after our treatment from the Tuaricks. I began to make little presents, for I am determined our friends shall have a portion of her Majesty's goods as well as our enemies; which latter, indeed, took them away from us by force. I must not forget to remark, that when I entered Zinder there was not a single person bold enough to whisper the name _Kafer!_ so immense is the difference between this Bornou country and the Tuarick territories.

_15th._--I rose early, having slept little. The weather was cool, the thermometer at sunrise being at 59. I began to prepare our presents for the Sultan and the Shereef. After much debating as to quant.i.ty, it was determined to keep all the best things for Kuka, and give small presents here. In this respect I must praise Yusuf and his friends amongst the Mourzuk people.

I prepared a present for Sarkee Ibrahim, sultan of Zinder, consisting of a piece of muslin for turban, a red turban, three heads of sugar, two gla.s.s drinking-cups, painted, a cup and saucer for coffee, a few rings in imitation of gold, cloves, two handkerchiefs (cotton), powder and shot, fifty bullets, two or three small looking-gla.s.ses. The present for the Shereef consisted of a carpet (hearth-rug), used here for kneeling upon in performing prayers, three white sugar-loaves, cloves, handkerchief (cotton), powder and shot, with some other trifles. The present for Sad, sent by Haj Bes.h.i.+r from Kuka, consisted of a cloth caftan (coa.r.s.e), a cotton handkerchief, and a piece of cotton stuff to make a pillow.

I am happy to add, that all were content and satisfied; but we made them understand--indeed, they knew it before we arrived--that the Tuaricks had taken away nearly all my property.

I must add the present of the Shereef Saghir (little Shereef), who acts as interpreter for the Sultan: a gla.s.s painted drinking-cup, a handkerchief (cotton), a little sugar, jani, senbal, a few cloves, and two or three rings; with which he was well satisfied.

Before noon I waited on the Shereef to deliver my present. I was much struck with this man's appearance. He was quite an European--white as myself. His countenance seemed full of thought and meaning. He is a native of Fez, and has lived long in Algiers. He has served in the war against the French under Abd-el-Kader, and has only been two years in Bornou and in Kuka, and once in Zinder. He is here as the _nather_, "looker-on;" one who watches over the interests of the country, particularly in its foreign relations. To speak plainly, he is a spy of the Sheikh of Bornou over the authorities of Zinder, including the Governor. All the people say, "Without the Shereef nothing can be done in Zinder;" and well they may, considering that he is in the entire confidence of the Sheikh. The Shereef is also the agent of all foreigners, and our goods were directed to his care from Tintalous--that is, those things which we sent up before us. The Sultans of Zinder are always a little disaffected; and to check them, and watch their conduct, the Shereef has been sent here. This personage is also universally respected for his learning, piety, and almsgiving; so that, apparently, the Sheikh could not have intrusted his interests to a more able man.

The Shereef knows well the use of arms, for it is reported here in Zinder that he has killed _forty thousand_ Frenchmen with his own hands!

The people actually believe this most marvellous report!

After leaving the Shereef we went to salute the Sultan Ibrahim, and deliver to his highness our present. We were conducted into a species of fort, built of clay, with walls exceedingly thick. Here in a sort of anteroom, or open skifa, or hall, we found some fifty soldiers of the Sultan, unarmed and bare-headed, with one or two governors of neighbouring places, all squatted upon the ground. I was requested to squat down amongst them, which I did near a raised mud-bench. There was little light, the place being built to shut out the glare and heat of the sun. Here I waited a quarter of an hour, till the Sultan was announced by the cries of the soldiers, slaves, and domestic officers.

His highness took his seat upon the mud-bench; and whilst so doing his attendants all squatted down, many of them taking up the dust from the ground and throwing it over their bare heads, and crying, "Long live the Sultan! G.o.d bless him!" This is the first occasion on which I have witnessed this degrading custom, this abject wors.h.i.+p of the representative of power. The scene was perfectly African and negro.

I was squatted amidst a number of courtiers, one of whom had a sort of double skull, another smaller skull raised above the larger one,--a protuberance which came from an accident in infancy. This double-skulled man was the chief of the domestics.

The Sultan was in a merry humour, and smilingly asked after my health.

We then read our letters of recommendation, which pleased him. He observed that the route _via_ Aheer was good. "How good," asked Yusuf, "when we are arrived here naked, and stripped of everything?" At which his highness burst out, laughing, with all the people. There was now observed a little bustle behind, and his highness called out "Silence!"

like a sheriff in a court of law. I begged the interpreter to tell the Sultan that our present was small, for we had been stripped by the Tuaricks. This he whispered in his ear; after which I slipped a packet of powder and shot into the hands of one of the princ.i.p.al courtiers, telling him it was for the Sultan, and he carried it off. I did not place it with the other presents, because the servant of Haj Bashaw, sent from Kuka, forbad my giving his highness any powder and shot, alleging, that this Sultan was always disaffected, and the Sheikh would disapprove of my giving him munitions of war. But I was determined to give fifty bullets and two dozen charges of powder, believing that he could do the Sheikh little harm, whilst it would make him my personal friend. No person knew what I gave the Governor.

The powder and shot being delivered, I took leave of his highness, raising my cap and shaking hands with him. At this doffing off the cap all the people were highly gratified, thinking great respect was thereby shown to their prince.

Ibrahim is a negro, a native of Zinder, a man of fifty years of age, with a countenance sparkling with good humour, and I believe I may add, intelligence. He has been Sultan here some thirty years, so that he must be a man of character. This day he received a renewal of his commission from Kuka, a ceremony that takes place every year; and so he was in a happy humour. There was also a sort of feast at the palace, and his highness rode out with a detachment of cavalry. The persons who brought our camels from Kuka also brought the renewed commission, or a man, from the Sheikh. Haj Bes.h.i.+r has sent us ten camels, to bring the boat and our baggage, in the event of our camels being stolen, or having become weak with the journey from Mourzuk. I have, therefore, only to sell my camels and turn them into ready money, which I much need, and then start.

We afterwards called again on the Shereef, and had a laugh about the man with two skulls. I told the Shereef "two heads were perhaps better than one," at which they all burst out laughing. The Shereef was surrounded by foreign merchants, all chatting in good humour. These Moors were friendly to me. To-day I dressed in my European clothes; first, because unless you have very good clothes, such as worn by the people of the country, you cut a very bad figure; and secondly, and princ.i.p.ally, to show the Kailouees, and other strangers, that I was now in a friendly place, and that no one dare say anything to me in the way of insult. In fact, as yesterday, there is not even a whisper of the word _Kafer_. His highness and all the people admired my European gear. I told them that now the Turks dressed in the same manner, or nearly so; at which they were greatly surprised. I had on a black surtout, tight trousers, and varnished boots, gloves, neckerchief, waistcoat; everything European but the hat, wearing instead of this the fez cap or shasheeah.

In the evening I paid a visit to the family of En-Noor, who were greatly astonished at my transfiguration from a bad Moorish dress into an European suit. They were much disconcerted at this change, and my happy humour. Madame En-Noor rated me for running away from them yesterday. I told them I wished to get to my friends of Bornou as quickly as possible. My interpreter also informed them that the Sheikh had sent camels, and enlarged on the anxiety of everybody here for our safety.

They were all displeased at this news, as a reflection upon them and the conduct of the Tuaricks. They now beheld quite a change in everything. I was anxious to mark this change in our circ.u.mstances, that they might reflect how they treated Europeans again when fallen into their hands.

At the same time I showed a desire not to hurt their feelings, wis.h.i.+ng to be on friendly terms with them whilst here.

The Kailouees are all excessively quiet now. All feel the power of the Sheikh, and are almost as submissive as if they were at Mourzuk.

However, the family of En-Noor still keep begging. But I believe now I must finish with them. The Sultan is said by his servants to have gone to Tesaoua. I am extremely glad I came without him to this place.

Perhaps he also was ashamed to bring me. From Tesaoua he will be here after some days. People call him, as in Aheer, An-Nour, and not En-Noor.

The prince of Zinder asked, where is An-Nour? The people are still at work preparing this chieftain's apartments, consisting of a circular wall of matting, enclosing a number of huts; there is a mud-house in the middle, but it is now fallen into ruins.

I made a tour of the town, and was still more pleased than before with its size. It is said to contain 20,000 inhabitants. There are many divisions, separated by blocks of granite, and small hills. We visited the Kad of a district. He immediately brought us ghaseb-water and milk.

Really the world seems turned upside down when the conduct of the people here is compared with the hospitality which we received from En-Noor, although he personally paid us some attentions not vouchsafed by others.

We came through the souk, where were the sticks of meat roasting, and lots of people. No one whispered _Kafer_! The Shereef sent me a horse to ride on when I go out, and recommends me to do so.

The scavengers of Zinder are a mult.i.tudinous host of a small species of filthy-looking vultures, brown and black in colour: they are exceedingly tame, for the people never touch them, and they walk about the streets tamer than the fowls. I believe the same species of vulture are also the scavengers of Kanou. At Zinder they take their evening exercise by flying in circles over the city, a hundred or two together. There are a few white ones amongst the flock. The Sultan sent for a piece of camphor this morning. I gave him some, with a silver French coin and a new English farthing.