Guide to Yosemite Part 5

The ~Glacier Point Hotel~ and cottages are but 200 yards distant. The panorama of the ~High Sierra~ from the hotel balcony is especially fine. Accommodations are excellent and it is recommended that the tourist remain over night if possible to see the sunrise.

Pa.s.sing the hotel the trail descends gradually along granite ledges revealing a most impressive profile of ~Half Dome~ across the canyon.

During the descent into the canyon of the Illilouette several patches of fallen trees and prostrate brush are pa.s.sed. These are caused by the frequent snow slides from the ~Illilouette Ridge~ above (Alt.

8250. Fine view). At a trail forks, the ~Buena Vista Trail~ (Trail Trip 22) branches south up the ~Illilouette Canyon~. An abrupt descent by zigzags takes us to a point from which is obtained a good view of the lace-like ~Illilouette Fall~. The name is a corruption of the old Indian name Too-tool-a-we-ack. A few feet below we stop at the lip of the fall (Alt. 5850). The canyon above abounds in glacial phenomena and will well repay a side trip for those interested in geology.

Fis.h.i.+ng is good up the canyon.

A climb of 375 feet takes us to ~Panorama Point~ (Alt. 6224), from which is an imposing view of the upper end of the valley and the mouth of ~Tenaya Canyon~. To the right is the sheer edge of ~Panorama Cliff~, along which our trail now follows almost level for about a mile. In the canyon below can be seen our route of about two hours hence. At a trail forks the ~Mono Meadow~ and ~Merced Pa.s.s Trail~ (Trail Trip 23) turns right into the ~Illilouette Creek Basin~.

Now begins an abrupt descent of 700 feet by switchbacks to the ~Merced River~ which, above this point, was called by the Yosemite Tribe the Yo-wy-we-ack or "twisting rock" branch. A few steps from the bridge is the top of ~Nevada Falls~ (Alt. 5910, Drop 594 ft.). Nevada is Spanish for snow and replaces the old Indian name Yo-wy-we. Many claim that the view from the overhanging ledge is the most fascinating water-vista of Yosemite. Note especially the shooting spray rockets.

These are most wonderful when painted by the first rays of suns.h.i.+ne at 7:30 to 8 a.m.

About a quarter of a mile upstream the trail crosses a small bridge and is joined by the ~Clouds Rest~, ~Sunrise~, ~Lake Merced~ and ~Little Yosemite Trail~ (Trail Trips 5, 8, 7 and 13). Here is a government telephone (Central 1 ring). Fis.h.i.+ng is good about two miles upstream in ~Little Yosemite~. In the following abrupt 500-foot descent by zigzags some fine profile views of ~Nevada Falls~ are obtained. When white men first visited Yosemite part of the Merced cascaded down the steep slope where the trail is now built. As the trail crosses ~Snow Flat~ at the foot of Nevada Falls, the ruins of the old "La Casa Nevada," or "Snow House," are seen at the right of the trail. The old register, which dates back to 1871, is in the Yosemite Museum. ~Liberty Cap~ (Alt. 7072), which the Indians called Mah'ta or "Martyr Mountain," towers above to the right. It may be ascended from the east and good rock climbers will find an interesting scramble up the deep defile between this dome and ~Mount Broderick~ (Alt. 6705) just northward. The talus of huge rocks above the trail fell from the face of Liberty Cap in 1918.

A bridge across the Merced takes us directly over the ~Diamond Cascade~. Below is the ~Silver Ap.r.o.n~. From the bridge upstream is fair fis.h.i.+ng. A short distance beyond the crossing is a fork where the main or "horse trail" turns to the left and climbs 350 feet up the canyon wall in order to pa.s.s Vernal Falls. Pedestrians should turn to the right and take the far more scenic ~Mist Trail~, thereby saving a half hour and several hundred feet climb. Following down the river we pa.s.s the ~Silver Ap.r.o.n~ and ~Waterwheel~, below which is a perfect glacial tarn called ~Emerald Pool~. Near its mouth is the rim of ~Vernal Falls~ (Alt. 5049, Drop 317 ft.). From behind the natural breast-high granite parapet we have another excellent outlook. The fall was called by the Indians Yan-o-pah, or "water cloud," which term was also applied to the canyon below. By climbing along the rim southeast of the falls we find a ladder and hanging trail descending to a ~grotto~, from which is a good view of ~Glacier Point~.

Nearer the fall the ~Mist Trail~ suddenly drops over the edge of the cliff and follows down a steep, narrow ledge which is well guarded by chains and iron posts. From here and from the zigzags just below we obtain excellent profiles of the fall. We now enter the mist, pa.s.sing down thru a luxurious growth of gra.s.ses and flowers, which caused the fall to be given its present name. Between 10 and 12 a.m. the beautiful ~circular rainbows~ may here be seen. Use extreme caution on slippery wet rocks! Following around the base of a cliff on a narrow ledge, the trail again enters a forest and parallels the river. We stop at ~Lady Franklin Rock~, where is obtained one of the best vistas of the falls (good photograph). A short distance downstream the two trails reunite just before crossing ~Vernal Bridge~, from which is a good distant view of the falls. In the canyon below was the old Indian camp of Ap'-poo-meh.

The trail now mounts about 200 feet above the riotous Merced and in rounding the base of ~Grizzly Peak~ offers a clear perception of the deep recess below ~Illilouette Falls~.

Again approaching the river we pa.s.s a spring and water trough where the ~Sierra Point Trail~ (Trail Trip 12) joins from the right. The ~Happy Isles Bridge~ on the main road is a quarter of a mile distant.

We have the choice of descending by the main trail or crossing the foot-log to ~Happy Isles~, and thence by several bridges and footpaths to the main road.

The road to the right leads to Mirror Lake. We turn left. Camp Curry is one mile distant and Yosemite Village 2.3 miles.

TRAIL TRIP 3

YOSEMITE TO NORTH DOME _via_ YOSEMITE FALLS AND RETURN _via_ MIRROR LAKE

Reverse of Trail Trip 4

(19.5 miles--10 hours)

The ~North Dome~ trip is a strenuous one-day climb and should be taken as follows rather than Trail Trip 4, thus avoiding the hot ascent of the Mirror Lake zigzags. One should start early, reaching the top of the falls before the heat becomes excessive.

The ~Yosemite Falls Trail~ was built in the early days and operated as a toll trail. It leaves the road a short distance west of ~Yosemite Lodge~. In the first mile we ascend by sharp zigzags thru a shady grove of golden oak and laurel, emerging above into the open and climbing granite ledges to ~Columbia Point~ (Alt. 5031). From here is a splendid view, especially of the upper end of the valley. Turning north, the trail ascends a few feet and then follows along a granite ledge beautifully shaded by oaks, laurel, Douglas fir and pines. At the left of the trail about a quarter of a mile above Columbia Point is a spring. A short, rather steep descent takes us to ~Valley View~, a lookout point a short distance to the right of the trail, from which is an excellent view of the valley and the ~Upper Yosemite Fall~.

Skirting the base of an almost perpendicular cliff at the left, the trail approaches the foot of the upper fall and bears to the left.

From this point it is possible to leave the trail and climb to the foot of the upper fall, entering the cave under its base except during high water. The climb is dangerous because of slippery rocks.

By switchbacks the trail ascends the steep slope west of the falls, crossing a small stream after a quarter-mile climb. During the hour ascent of the zigzags, ~Mount Clark~ (Alt. 11,506), ~Gray Peak~ (Alt.

11,581) and other High Sierra summits may be seen to the southeast.

Across the canyon are ~Glacier Point~ and ~Sentinel Dome~. At a trail junction 100 feet beyond the canyon rim is a government telephone (Central 1 ring). Here the ~Eagle Peak~ and ~Yosemite Creek Trails~ continue straight ahead (Trail Trips 9, 10 and 11). Our trail turns to the right and crosses a small stream. Just beyond, the main trail pa.s.ses over a low rise. A branch to the left follows south along the open ridge for a short distance to the top of the falls. From the railed lookout point, peering into the chasm below we see what Muir describes as one of the most impressive phenomena of the valley.

Retracing our route to the main trail and turning left, we cross ~Yosemite Creek~ and climb 300 feet on the further side, thence turning southward. A short trail to the rim takes us to ~Yosemite Point~ (Alt. 6935), from which is a vast view of the valley and the High Sierra. The granite spire at the right and just below is "Le Hammo," the Lost Arrow of one of the most beautiful Yosemite Indian legends.

Returning to the main trail we climb parallel to the eastern rim of the cliff. To the right are ~Castle Cliffs~ and the flat summit of ~North Dome~ beyond. After a climb of 400 feet the trail crosses a ridge and traverses a dense forest of fir and pine, descending 400 feet and crossing ~Indian Creek~. Directly south is ~Indian Canyon~, called by the Yosemite Tribe "Le Hamite," because of the arrowwood which grew there. Their main trail into Yosemite followed along the precipitous east side of the canyon.

The ~Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek~ is crossed a half mile beyond the main stream, and here the ~Snow Flat Trail~ continues upstream. Turning to the right, our trail pa.s.ses thru a fir forest about one mile to ~Indian Ridge~, which it follows south over disintegrating granite and thru stunted forest to the rounded summit of ~North Dome~ (Alt. 7531). The view is most comprehensive and the sheer vertical wall of ~Half Dome~ gives an impression of ma.s.siveness nowhere else obtained. To the north of the trail near the summit is ~Slipper Rock~.

In returning to Yosemite we take all main trails to the right.

Retracing our path up ~Indian Ridge~ it is possible to follow the trail back to the ~East~ or ~Little Winkle Fork of Indian Creek~, and turn right on the ~Snow Flat Trail~, but the better and the shorter way is to follow the plain blazes which turn to the right about a half mile from the North Dome summit and just west of the crest of ~Indian Ridge~. Running thru a beautiful forest this trail joins the main ~Snow Flat Trail~ at the ~Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek~ just west of ~Indian Rock~.

It is also possible to leave the trail and follow up Indian Ridge from North Dome, gradually bearing to the right of ~Indian Rock~ and intersecting the main ~Mirror Lake Trail~ near the top of the zigzags.

Our trail follows up the ~East~ or ~Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek~, at the source of which the ~Porcupine Flat Trail~ branches to the left. The ~Mirror Lake Trail~ swings north of ~Indian Rock~, and descends east to a branch of ~Snow Creek~, pa.s.sing ~Snow Creek Falls~.

Further down Snow Creek is the junction with the ~Lake Tenaya Trail~ (Trail Trips 5 and 6). Turning right we further descend Snow Creek and pa.s.s over the rim of the canyon between ~Basket Dome~ (Alt. 7602) at the right and ~Mt. Watkins~ (Alt. 8235) at the left. In the next one and a half miles a descent of 2500 feet is made by 108 switchbacks to the floor of ~Tenaya Canyon~. Following down the canyon one mile, the trail joins the road at ~Mirror Lake~. Yosemite is three miles distant by road.

TRAIL TRIP 4

YOSEMITE TO NORTH DOME _via_ MIRROR LAKE AND RETURN _via_ YOSEMITE FALLS TRAIL

Reverse of Trail Trip 3

(19.5 miles--10 hours)

This is a strenuous one-day climb. The advantage of taking the trip as follows and seeing the sunrise at ~Mirror Lake~ is more than offset by physical penalty of climbing the hot and steep ~Tenaya Trail~ zigzags.

The trip is better taken in the reverse direction (Trail Trip 3). If the following route is adhered to, it is best to leave Yosemite as early as possible, carrying a canteen which should be filled about three-quarters of a mile above Mirror Lake.

~Mirror Lake~ is three miles distant by road from Yosemite. Here our trail leaves the end of the road and skirts the west sh.o.r.e. Following up the canyon beneath the dense forest about one mile we suddenly turn left and start the 2500-foot ascent. From the 108 switchbacks are many fine views. After a long, tiresome climb the trail pa.s.ses over the canyon rim between ~Mt. Watkins~ (Alt. 8235) at the right and ~Basket Dome~ (Alt. 7602) at the left. A short distance takes us to ~Snow Creek~, which cascades beautifully further down its rough canyon.

Turning upstream we soon arrive at a trail fork where the ~Tenaya Lake Trail~ (Trail Trip 6) turns right. We turn left, following up the west branch about a mile further. In high water ~Snow Creek Falls~ is especially attractive. The trail now makes a wide detour to the north of ~Indian Rock~ (Alt. 8526). If desirable, pedestrians may leave the trail and climb to its summit, from which are good views, thence following south down the long open ridge to the summit of ~North Dome~.

The trail keeps at a lower elevation, pa.s.sing thru almost level fir forests and meadows with a charming diversity of wild-flowers and trees. Gradually bearing southward our trail follows down the ~East~ or ~Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek~ from its source. The main ~Snow Flat Trail~ continues down this stream, but we turn left on the plainly blazed ~cut-off trail to North Dome~. Pa.s.sing thru the dense forests on the west flank of ~Indian Ridge~, we finally emerge on the open disintegrated granite at the crest of the long slope leading southward to North Dome. Here the ~Yosemite Falls Trail~ joins from the west. The rounded summit of ~North Dome~ (Alt. 7531) is now easily reached by a walk thru the open forest and over granite pavements, which here exhibit very well the geological phenomenon of exfoliation or weathering in concentric sh.e.l.ls. Near the summit and to the north of the trail is ~Slipper Rock~. From the top is a vast outlook, especially westward toward the ~Gates of the Valley~ and eastward where the great wall of ~Half Dome~ dominates the entire landscape.

The floor of ~Yosemite Valley~ is partly hidden by the projecting ~Royal Arch Cliff~. Daring rock climbers who have made the descent to the edge describe this dizzy precipice as one of the most impressive in the park.

In returning to Yosemite we take all main trails to the left.

Retracing our path for about half a mile up ~Indian Ridge~, we turn westward. One mile more thru dense forest takes us past a small stream and to the ~Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek~, where the main ~Snow Flat Trail~ joins from upstream. The steep canyon below was called "Le Hamite" by the Yosemite Indians because of the arrowwood which grew there. Their main trail into Yosemite followed along the precipitous east wall of the canyon.

A climb of 400 feet thru the forest now takes us to the summit of a long ridge which we follow southward, finally paralleling the edge of a deep precipice just westward from ~Castle Cliffs~ and emerging abruptly at ~Yosemite Point~ (Alt. 6935). This is one of the justly famous view-points of Yosemite and offers a remarkable combination of depths and distances. The granite spire just below and at the right is the ~Lost Arrow~, the "Le Hammo" of the Yosemite Tribe, the story of which is one of their most charming legends.

Returning a short distance to the main trail we descend to ~Yosemite Creek~. On the open ridge just beyond the crossing is a secondary trail which leads to the rim of the ~Upper Yosemite Fall~, a few hundred feet distant. The wonderful view from this point is most thrillingly described by Muir.

Returning to the main trail we cross a small stream where is the junction with the ~Yosemite Creek~, ~Eagle Peak~ and ~Ten Lakes Trails~ (Trail Trips 11, 9 and 10). There is here a government telephone (Central 1 ring). Turning left we descend abruptly 1600 feet by sharp, dusty switchbacks, finally skirting the bottom of the almost vertical cliff west of the falls. At this point one can leave the trail and climb to the foot of the upper fall, in times of low water even entering the cave beneath its base. The climb is dangerous because of the slippery rocks.

The trail now pa.s.ses southward along a granite ledge beneath the shade of oaks and laurel. A short steep descent at the left of the trail takes us to ~Valley View~, an excellent lookout point. Less than one-half mile further is ~Columbia Point~ (Alt. 5031) from which is a particularly wide and effective panorama. The following 2000-foot descent to the floor of Yosemite Valley is first along granite ledges among scattered Douglas firs and golden oaks, and finally beneath the dense laurel and oak forests of the lower talus slopes. At the foot of the trail is the ~El Capitan Road~. Auto busses run between this and other valley points on half-hour service. ~Yosemite Lodge~ is a short distance eastward and ~Yosemite Village~ is about three-quarters of a mile distant via Yosemite Lodge and the foot-bridge.

TRAIL TRIP 5

YOSEMITE TO TENAYA LAKE _via_ CLOUDS REST AND FORSYTH Pa.s.s AND RETURN _via_ MIRROR LAKE

Reverse of Trail Trip 6

(32.25 miles--2-day trip)

Owing to the stupendous mountain scenery and the charming diversity of meadows and forests thru which this trail pa.s.ses, it deserves to be ranked among the most scenic of Yosemite Trails. Two days should be taken for the trip. Excellent accommodations will be found at Tenaya Lake Lodge, but reservations should be made in advance from Yosemite.

From Yosemite we take the road past ~Camp Curry~ to ~Happy Isles Bridge~. Here we turn to the right on the main ~Glacier Point Trail~ and follow Trail Trip 1 as far as the trail junction at the top of the ~Nevada Falls~ zigzags. At this point we turn left, rising rather abruptly about 200 feet and then following up the north bank of the Merced river. About a half mile takes us to a junction where the ~Little Yosemite Trail~ (Trail Trip 13) continues on up the ~Little Yosemite Valley~. Our trail turns to the left uphill and mounts by switchbacks thru a dense stand of pine, fir and cedar. A climb of 1000 feet in one and a half miles takes us to the junction where the ~Half Dome Trail~ (Trail Trip 14) turns to the left. Our trail turns right along a gently inclined bench and in one-half mile again branches. To the right is the ~Sunrise Trail~ (Trail Trip 8). By taking this trail and branching north on the cut-off route about two miles further, some distance can be saved by those who do not wish to visit Clouds Rest.