The Art of Modern Lace Making Part 2

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 21.--Point de Fillet And Point de Reprise.]

NO. 22.--POINT DE TULLE.--This st.i.tch is used as a ground-work for very fine work, and is worked in rows backward and forward in the same st.i.tch as open point d' Espagne. When this is completed the work is gone over a second time by inserting the needle under one twisted bar, bringing it out and inserting it at + and bringing it out again at the dot. This produces a close double twist which is very effective.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 22.--Point de Tulle.]

NO. 23. FAN LACE St.i.tCH.--Commence at the right side, and work as follows:

_First row._--Make 1 b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch and miss the s.p.a.ce of 8, which will leave a long loop.

_Second row._--Make 8 b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tches in each loop.

_Third row._--Make 7 st.i.tches into the s.p.a.ces between the 8, and so decrease one in every row until only one remains, as may be seen by referring to the ill.u.s.tration.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 23.--Fan Lace St.i.tch.]

NO. 24.--ROSE POINT LACE St.i.tCH.--Make a foundation of single threads, crossing them to form the large squares. Work a b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch at each crossing to make it firm. Now begin at the top, at the right side and fill the first square with Brussels net st.i.tches, finis.h.i.+ng at the lower left corner. Fill every alternate square in the same way as seen in the picture.

Now cross the open squares diagonally with two threads, twisting each thread around the adjoining one as represented. (Carry one thread across all the squares from corner to corner first, then twist back, fastening at the corner started from; cross these threads in the same way from the opposite direction). When twisting the thread back from the last set of crossings, make a rosette at each center crossing as follows: Keep the s.p.a.ce open with a pin and trace round it with a darning movement five or six times; commence at the single thread and work a close b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch over the tracing entirely around, and then twist along the single thread to the center of the next square. This is a very effective design for s.p.a.ces.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 24.--Rose Point Lace St.i.tch.]

WHEELS AND ROSETTES.

Wheels and rosettes are used to fill up s.p.a.ces, or in combination, to form lace.

NO. 25.--ROSETTE IN RAISED POINT D'ANGLETERRE.--This rosette is worked in a manner similar to the English wheel, the difference being that after each st.i.tch is pa.s.sed round and under the bars, the thread is pa.s.sed loosely around in the reverse direction, as shown in the ill.u.s.tration, before proceeding to make the next st.i.tch.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 25.--Rosette in Raised Point d'Angleterre.]

NO. 26.--MECHLIN LACE WHEELS.--This is one of the prettiest st.i.tches in point lace, but also one of the most difficult to work correctly. It is made thus: Work a number of diagonal bars in b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch on a single thread in one direction, then begin at the opposite side in the same way, and work 5 or 6 st.i.tches past the spot where the two lines cross; pa.s.s the thread round the cross twice, under and over the thread to form a circle. Work in b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch half of one-quarter, make a dot by putting a fine pin in the loop instead of drawing the thread tight, and work 3 b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tches in the loop held open by the pin, then take the pin out and continue as before. Beginners will do well to omit the dot, leaving the loop only on the wheel. Mechlin wheels are also worked in rows upon horizontal and parallel lines of thread.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 26.--Mechlin Lace Wheels.]

NO. 27.--ENGLISH WHEEL.--This is worked in the same manner as Sorrento wheels, but instead of _winding_ the thread over and under the bars, the needle is inserted under each bar, and brought out again between the thread and the last st.i.tch; this produces a kind of b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch, and gives the square, firm appearance possessed by this wheel.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 27.--English Wheel.]

NOS. 28 AND 30.--SORRENTO WHEEL.--This is worked by fastening the thread in the pattern to be filled up, as indicated by the letters. Fasten it first to the place _a_, then at place _b_, carrying it back to the middle of the first formed bar by winding it round; fasten again at _c_, carrying it back again to the center by winding it around the bar, and so on to all the letters; then work over and under the bars thus formed.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 28.--Sorrento Wheel.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 30.--Sorrento Wheel.]

NO. 29.--CLOSE ENGLISH WHEELS.--These wheels may be used in open s.p.a.ces and may be very easily made from the engraving. They are much like the wheels used in drawn work--indeed, many of the st.i.tches used in lace are identical with those used in drawn-work.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 29.--Close English Wheels.]

BARS AND PICOTS.

The word "Bar" is applied to the many st.i.tches used to connect the various parts of point lace, and the beauty of the work depends greatly upon the cla.s.s of bar selected and its suitability to the lace st.i.tches used.

NOS. 31 AND 32.--RALEIGH BARS.--These bars are much used in making Battenburg lace and are very effective. They are worked over a foundation or net-work of coa.r.s.e thread, and are twisted in places so that they will more easily fall into the desired form.

By following the numbering from 1 to 21, in No. 31, a square place may be easily filled, and portions of this arrangement applied to form ground-work of any shape desired. Upon this ground-work tight point de Bruxelles st.i.tches are made, and the dot worked upon these in one of the following ways:

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 31.--Net-work for Working Raleigh Bars.]

DOT OR PICOT.--_First Method._--Make 5 tight point de Bruxelles st.i.tches, 1 loose point de Bruxelles; pa.s.s the needle under the loop and over the thread, as shown in point de Venise bars at No. 47, on page 18, and draw up, leaving a small, open loop as in tatting. Work 5 tight point de Bruxelles st.i.tches, and repeat.

_Second Method._--Proceed as above directed, but instead of continuing the tight st.i.tches, work two or three tight st.i.tches in the loop thus formed and repeat.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 32.--Raleigh Bars.]

_Third Method._--Work 4 tight point de Bruxelles st.i.tches; 1 loose, through which pa.s.s the needle point, wind the thread three or four times round the point (see No. 48, page 18), press the thumb tightly on this, and draw the needle and thread through the twists. This is a quick mode of making the picot, and imitates most closely the real Spanish lace.

Ill.u.s.tration No. 48 shows how this st.i.tch may also be applied as a _regular_ ground-work, but the beauty of old point ground-work bars consists of variety in form.

NO. 33.--ITALIAN GROUND St.i.tCH.--Commence at the left side, and work as follows:

_First row._--Make a loose b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch to form a loop a quarter of an inch wide, and then make a plain st.i.tch into the loop to twist it, and continue to the end.

_Second row._--Make two plain st.i.tches into each loop, working back to the left.

_Third row._--Repeat first row.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 33.--Italian Ground St.i.tch.]

NO. 34.--OPEN LACE BARS.--Pa.s.s a thread from right to left. Make it firm by working a second st.i.tch into the braid; work 2 b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tches on this line of thread, close together. Then work 1 b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch on the lower thread at the left hand side, and draw it close to the 2 st.i.tches on the line of thread. Miss the s.p.a.ce of 2 and repeat.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 34.--Open Lace Bars.]

NOS. 35 AND 36.--SORRENTO BARS.--Each of the bars is worked from right to left, a straight thread being carried across and fastened securely with a st.i.tch. The return consists of a simple twist under and over the straight thread; three of these bars are usually placed close together at equal distances between the groups. The thread is sewn carefully over the braid in pa.s.sing from one spot to another.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 35.--Sorrento Bars.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 36.--Sorrento Bars.]

NOS. 37 AND 38.--VENETIAN BARS.--The bar at No. 37 is so simple that it really needs no description. It is worked over two straight threads in reverse b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch. No. 38 shows the Venetian bar used as the veining of a leaf and worked upon Sorrento bars.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 37.--Venetian Bars.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 38.--Venetian Bars.]

NO. 39.--POINT D'ANVERS BARS.--Two upright bars form the foundation. The thread is carried over and under them as seen in the engraving, the side loops being added by the method depicted at the top of the point.

The over and under work in point d'Anvers bars, without the side loops, is often used for plain bars for filling in odd s.p.a.ces or wheels in heavy lace.