The Solomon Islands and Their Natives Part 24

[253] From the context it may be inferred that the brigantine completed the circuit of the island of Isabel. Figueroa, in his narrative, expressly states that the brigantine turned the west end of the island, and encountered head easterly winds in her return to the s.h.i.+ps. Figueroa also tells us that during the absence of the brigantine some of the men in the s.h.i.+ps had died of sickness; but Gallego does not refer to this circ.u.mstance.

"The same day on which we arrived at Santa Isabel de la Estrella, I told the General that it was necessary to refit the s.h.i.+ps, and that soon afterwards we should proceed further on to follow up what we had begun.

Accordingly, on the 8th of the said month, we left the port of Santa Isabel de la Estrella, on our way out, pa.s.sing by some reefs which are at the entrance of the harbour. We sailed on until the end of two days.

The brigantine, being unable to keep up with the s.h.i.+ps, drifted towards the land, so much so that at dawn she was nearly out of sight, although there came in her the pilot Gregorio Gonzalez with some of the soldiers and sailors who had (previously) gone in her. Being afraid of losing her, I made signals to her to go about and make a reach to seaward. I deemed that unless one of the s.h.i.+ps turned back to take her in tow, we should lose her. Seeing that, on account of the many reefs, she was so essential to us for the exploration of those islands, and had been built by us after so much labour and through my diligence, I left the 'Almiranta' to go on, and turned back in the 'Capitana' to get her. We kept the sounding-lead in hand for fear of the reefs; and about 6 leagues out to sea (_seis leguas de la mar_) I found myself in 6 fathoms. I went about immediately, and it pleased G.o.d that we found deeper water. We found the brigantine in the hours of the night; and we took her in tow with no little labour, going after the 'Almiranta' which had followed the course I had advised in order to avoid the many reefs existing here, and leaving behind in her course the islands of Veru and Flores,[254] and many others which were discovered in the brigantine, without touching at them. At the end of four days, we saw the 'Almiranta' right ahead of us, not having yet found a port.

[254] The island of Florida is probably thus referred to.

"On Tuesday, the 12th of May, we arrived at a port in the island of Guadalca.n.a.l, to which we had gone from Santa Isabel; but we were not able to arrive at the river of Ortega which lay two leagues to windward of where we were. This day, the wind blew so hard from the east that our cable parted and we lost an anchor. On the following morning I went in a boat to find a good anchorage, for we were anch.o.r.ed on an (open) coast; and I went a league from here to the rear of an islet which was close to this island of Guadalca.n.a.l; and having sounded everywhere I found that it was clear (of shoals) and afforded a good anchorage for the s.h.i.+ps, since it had a large river which was named by us Rio Gallego. It is in lat.i.tude 10 8'. From here I returned to the s.h.i.+ps, and brought them to this port which we named Puerto de la Cruz.[255]

[255] The position of this harbour is shown on the present chart; but it is placed too much to the eastward; since, from the narrative, it is apparent that it lies near Sesarga, which is the present Savo.

"This same day, the General landed with all the soldiers and self; and he took possession of this island in the name of His Majesty as in the case of the other islands. A cross was erected on a little eminence that was there; and we all paid our adoration. Some Indians, who stood near to look on, commenced to discharge their arrows; and some shots were fired at them, by which two Indians were killed; and so they left us and fled, and we embarked for that night.

"On the following morning, when we intended to land to say ma.s.s, we noticed that the Indians had pulled up the cross and had carried it off.

On account of their audacity, the General ordered the soldiers to get themselves ready to go in search of the cross and to put it in its place: and whilst they were going ash.o.r.e in the boat, we saw the Indians return and endeavour to set it up. When it was in its place, they went away; but it appeared that they had not thrust it in sufficiently, and it fell. Presently, the same men attempted to erect it; but, from fear of us, they did not stop to set it up quite straight and fled; and herewith our people reached the sh.o.r.e and disembarked. The General sent Pedro Sarmiento with some soldiers to look at the cross; whilst he himself remained on the beach with the rest of the people. On reaching there, they found that the cross was not upright; and they placed it as it was at first. Pedro Sarmiento then returned, and they all embarked and came back to the s.h.i.+ps.

"In order not to lose time, I gave the order to repair the brigantine, as she was very leaky. She was repaired accordingly; and then it was determined that Don Fernando Henriquez, the chief-ensign (alferez general), and I, the said Hernan Gallego, should go in the brigantine with 30 soldiers and sailors to discover the remaining lands of the same island of Guadalca.n.a.l. On the 19th of May, we sailed in the brigantine along the coast of the said island which is named, in the language of the natives, Sabo.[256] And on the same day, the General sent Andres Nunez with 30 soldiers to see what the land possessed, and to endeavour to make a search in cracks or broken ground, because the miners, who understood it, said that it was a land for gold. And so they carried out this object in an excursion of 7 days. Whilst they were endeavouring to make a trial of the ground in a large river, so many natives crowded around them that they had to give it up, because they would not suffer them to do it. By a sign which they gave, they said that there was gold.

They have ... .[257]; and here were found the first hens of Castile.

They brought back two young hens and a c.o.c.k, which they all received with much satisfaction, understanding that they would discover better land." (These birds were evidently the "bush-hens," _Megapodiidae_, of these islands.)

[256] The name of Savo is at the present day given to the volcanic island, named by the Spaniards, Sesarga, which lies off the north-west coast of Guadalcanar: Savuli is the name of a village at the west end of Guadalcanar (_vide_ map in Dr. Codrington's "Melanesian Languages").

[257] "muchas guacanaras en este entrada."

"Those in the brigantine, as they sailed along the coast of this island from the south-east to the north-west,[258] saw many villages near a river that was nigh to the s.h.i.+ps. We pa.s.sed a league further on, and after another league came to the river of Ortega. All this coast is full of villages; yet we did not stop to have seen more of it. Going further along the coast, we came to a river and anch.o.r.ed in it; and we resolved to land to see the people who were there. More than 200 Indians came out to meet us in a friendly manner, with their bows in their hands and the clubs with which they fight. They gave us some plantains (_platanos_) which abound here. After we had seen this, the people embarked; however, they threw some stones at us as we were embarking. We were from the s.h.i.+ps 12 leagues. Proceeding on our course to the south-east, we saw in another river a large population of natives, and we named it Rio de San Bernardino because it was that same day. It is in the lat.i.tude of 10?, and bears ... .[259] There is a very high round hill here. This river is 4 leagues from where we started from, as I have said.[260]

[258] A perplexing error. Read instead, N.W. to S.E. Figueroa gives the course as E.S.E.

[259] "Nor norueste suhueste" (an impossible bearing).

[260] The sense of this sentence is not intelligible to me.

"We continued coasting along this same island; and two leagues from this river, we came to a great village on the bank of a small river. Don Fernando landed, and took a canoe which he found in the river, and also some roots, that they call "mames" (yams) and others, "names," which they found in cases. We told the natives to give us some hogs, and they should have their canoe back. They said that they would give them to us with the intention of detaining us whilst they collected their numbers.

Thereupon they began to play their instruments for the battle. By the time we were embarked, more than 600 ruffians (_gandules_) had a.s.sembled. Coming to the beach with their bows and arrows, and clubs, and stones, they began to shoot; but no musket was fired at them, although they did not cease from shooting at us. Some took to the water and swam off to the brigantine endeavouring to cajole us with fair words, asking us for the canoe and promising us a hog. They tried to take it from astern: and when we observed this, we threatened them and they went ash.o.r.e.

"The Indians then brought on a pole a bundle of dry gra.s.s in imitation of a hog; and they placed it on the beach. Some came off to the brigantine and said that there was the hog, that we should go for it, and should give back the canoe. We saw the deceit that they intended; and when they perceived that we understood what it was and did not go for it, they threw stones at us and rushed into the sea, swimming with their weapons in their hands. Withal, we did not wish to harm them until we saw their boldness, and that they were coming to the brigantine to shoot at us with their arrows. To frighten them, some shots were fired high in the air, which did not wound any one; and so we went further along the coast, whilst they returned to the sh.o.r.e and followed us until we arrived off another large river, with many people as numerous as themselves, whom they joined.

"On the 22nd of May, we named this river Santa Elena. There is much level ground here which is covered with palms and cocoa-nut trees. This island has a very lofty _cordillera_ in its interior and many ravines from which these rivers issue; whilst between the mountains and the sea there are eight leagues of level country. In the mouth of the river there are many sandbanks; but we did not anchor there, and sailed a long way from the coast to double a point of reefs, where we anch.o.r.ed. The wind blew so strong from the south-east that we ran much risk when seeking shelter to leeward of the shoals that run out from the river.

Here I anch.o.r.ed, and although there was much wind, it was fine weather at sea.

"The Indians, who were more than a thousand in number, swam out to us with their bows and arrows; and they dived and plunged beneath the water to lay hold of our anchor and carry the brigantine ash.o.r.e. Seeing their determined perseverance, we fired some shots, and having killed some, we ceased firing; and they made for the sh.o.r.e, where they raised some mounds of sand for their protection. As we were short of water, we were compelled to get more; and when we headed towards the sh.o.r.e, a great number of the natives a.s.sembled together to menace us lest we should take up a position in the rear of their works, from which they defended themselves. We loaded a small cannon with small shot, and discharged it against their mound-works, by which some were wounded and one killed.

Seeing that they could not hold the works, they left the beach and withdrew to the mountain slope.

"And we found a place to get water in the canoe that we had; but it was brackish; and I told them that unless they brought sweeter water they should not come on board the brigantine. The Indians said that they would fetch it in the earthen jars which were given them for it; and taking them, the Indians went and brought it sweet and put it on board the brigantine. Soon they all came on board, and they did not follow us any more. Continuing our voyage along the same coast for another 6 leagues, we anch.o.r.ed off a great town, which was more than three leagues in extent (_mas de tres leguas de poblacion_), whence there came out to us more than 3,000 (!) Indians, who gave us a hog and many cocoa-nuts; and they filled the earthen jars with water and brought it off in their canoes, and they came on board the brigantine to visit us without arms.

Close to the sh.o.r.e there are two inhabited islets lying about half a league to sea; and further on to the north-west of these two islets, there is another islet of sand. Soon we steered our course to the south-east, following the trend of the coast for two leagues. There are two other islets, and another of sand, near them, which were not inhabited.

"On the 24th of May we sailed further along; and there came off to us 18 canoes, which accompanied us until sunset. When they were about to go, they menaced us with their bows; and on some shots being fired to disperse them, they quickly left us. Accordingly, we kept our course until the extremity of this island, which runs from north-west to south-east. We went to look for a port for the s.h.i.+ps in case it should be needed; and we found at the point of this promontory many islets with shoals between them. Among them is a large island with a good port. We were in want of water, and two canoes that accompanied us showed us where to get it, with the intention of luring us there and killing us; for they came with their weapons. They were joined by 30 other canoes, one of them carrying 30 Indian warriors. Arriving whilst we were watering, they landed, and having got plenty of stones and arrows and spears, some went to attack the brigantine, whilst the others went to attack those who were getting water on sh.o.r.e. When we saw their determined daring, shots were fired by which some were killed and many wounded; and so they fled, leaving behind two canoes empty, and carrying off the rest. The large canoe was much injured, and in their precipitation they threw themselves into the sea; but we took the canoe with four Indians, two wounded and two unharmed. We landed them, and treating them well, gave them their liberty and restored their canoe.

And so they went away; and I kept a boy that I took here. I found the lat.i.tude to be in 10. On the south-south-east side of the point, the coast trends from north-east to south-west, but from this point we could not see the end of it. The port is 40 leagues from where we left the s.h.i.+ps.[261]

[261] The description of this part, its situation, and relative position to the adjoining coasts of Malaita and St. Christoval, as stated below, all point to its ident.i.ty with Marau Sound. In the Geographical Appendix reference is made to the discrepancies in the distances and lat.i.tudes of Gallego.

"We left this port with some difficulty as it lies among the reefs. We saw to the south-east-by-east an island 7 leagues away;[262] but we did not go to it, as we were going to the island of Malaita, as the Indians name it, which lies with the island of Guadalca.n.a.l, and with the point where we had been, north-east-by-east. We sailed to the north-east-by-east for 16 leagues, and arrived at a good harbour which has many reefs at the entrance. There came out 25 canoes with warriors who discharged their arrows. Some shots were fired at them, which killed some and wounded others. This port, which is on the south-south-west coast, is in the lat.i.tude of 10; and the name, Escondido, was given to it, because it is almost enclosed by reefs.[263] In this island we found apples of some size, oranges, a metal that seemed to be a base kind of gold, and, besides, pearl-sh.e.l.l, with which they inlay the club they use in battle, being the one they usually carry. These natives, like the rest, go _completely_ naked. In the name of His Majesty we took possession of this island, to which we gave the name of the Isle of Ramos." (_Vide_ Note VI., Geographical Appendix.)

[262] This island is evidently St. Christoval.

[263] Future visitors to the southern portion of Malaita will doubtless be able to identify this port with some anchorage on the west coast to the northward of the Maramasiki Pa.s.sage. In so doing they should not forget the usual error of Gallego's lat.i.tudes (Note V. of the Geographical Appendix).

"Leaving this port, we sailed to the south-east for four leagues, and discovered an entrance to a harbour resembling a river dividing the lands from each other.[264] We could not see the end of it; and on account of the strong current we were unable to enter. We accordingly pa.s.sed on another four leagues, where we found a good port: and in it I took the lat.i.tude, and found it to be 10? south of the equinoctial. It has an islet at the entrance which should be left close on the starboard hand in entering the port. Two hundred Indians came out and attacked us.

To this port we gave the name of La Asuncion, because we entered it on that day.[265] This day we sailed out and proceeded further along the coast to the south-east. Close to the extremity of the island, we put into a _small bay_,[266] where they discharged some arrows at us, and on our firing some shots they left us. Quitting the small bay, we sailed as far as the end of the island which is in 10.[267] It lies north-east and south-east with the isle of Jesus, which is the first island we saw, and lies in 7. [With the other end of Malaita, which is to the north-east, and lies east and west with Meta in 8, it is 85 leagues.

There is another point in 7, with which the Isle of Jesus lies north-east-by-north 135 leagues.[268]]

[264] This is without a doubt the Maramasiki Pa.s.sage which cuts through the south-eastern portion of Malaita.

[265] Port Asuncion may, perhaps, be the large bay of Su Paina.

[266] _Caleta_ in the Spanish. This anchorage may, perhaps, be identified with Su Oroha or with one of the inlets or coves nearer to Cape Zelee, such as Te Oroha or Te Waina. ("Pacific Islands:"

vol. I.; "Western Groups:" p. 61, 62; "Admiralty publication,"

1885.)

[267] This lat.i.tude is not consistent with that given above for the port of Escondido, which, according to the journal, lies more than half a degree to the north-west.

[268] I have endeavoured unsuccessfully to get at the meaning of the two sentences enclosed in brackets.

"This island of Malaita has a length of 114 leagues. We did not go to the north side, and for that reason we cannot say what is its breadth.

The island of Guadalca.n.a.l is very large. I do not estimate its size, because it is a great land and half a year is needed to sail along its sh.o.r.es.[269] That we sailed along its length on the north side for 130 leagues and did not reach the end, shows its great size. Moreover, on the east[270] side of the extremity, the coast trended to the west, where I saw a great number of fine towns.[271]

[269] "_Para andallae es menester medio anno._"

[270] This should be "west."

[271] See Note VIII. in Geographical Appendix for remarks on the exaggerated ideas as to the size of this island.

"From the extremity of this island of Malaita we saw another island, which lies east and west from this cape 8 leagues, to which we went, arriving in the night. We anch.o.r.ed in front of a town on the coast, which has a small river; and whilst we were anchoring, two canoes came off to see us, but they soon returned. At dawn we sent the people on sh.o.r.e to get water: and the natives came out peacefully with their women and their sons. They are all naked like the others. The women carry in their hands some things like fans, which they sometimes place before them. When the water was procured, we asked for a hog, and they brought it; and placing it so that we should see it, they returned and carried it off. But we did not injure them in any way; and accordingly embarked and proceeded out to sail round the island. When the natives saw that we were going, most of them came out in their canoes with their bows and arrows in pursuit of us. The first man who was about to aim, we knocked over with a shot. At this, they turned and fled; and we pursued them as far as the port, capturing some canoes that had intended to take us. A friendly Indian, whom we carried with us, climbed a palm tree and saw how the Indians came in regular bodies bearing their s.h.i.+elds. We went to arms, and sent three soldiers to see in what force the people were. They came in their canoes in two or three divisions to attack the brigantine: and we began to bring our musketry into action, killing two Indians and an Indian woman. They soon retired; and our men who were on the sh.o.r.e having embarked in the brigantine, we went on in pursuit of our quest.

The island is named Uraba[272] in the language of the Indians. We gave it the name of La Treguada because they led us into a treacherous truce.[273] This island is in lat.i.tude 10. It is well peopled, and has plenty of provisions of their kind. Although small, it has an area of 25 leagues. There is communication with the neighbouring islands, and with a cape that lies to the north-west. It trends north-west and south-east until the middle of the island, where we found these 10, and the other ..... (_milad_) trends north-north-west until the end of the island.

[272] The reader will have already inferred that the island of Uraba is the Ulaua of the present chart, and will have noticed that the name of the island has remained the same during the last three centuries. It is the Ulawa of the present natives, and the Contrariete of Surville.

[273] One must judge Gallego in the spirit of his times. Humane as he really was, we cannot free him from his share in this unfortunate conflict with the natives of Ulaua: and the name of La Treguada had been better never bestowed. The next navigator who visited this island was Surville in 1769; who, following up his previous proceedings at Port Praslin in Isabel, repelled its inhabitants with grape shot.

"To the south-by-west of the point of the island there are low islands, with many shoals around them, which are three leagues distant from this island of La Treguada, to which we went and obtained water. They are inhabited; and we gave them the name of Las Tres Marias. They trend west-by-north and east-by-south.[274]

[274] These three islands are without doubt identical with the three small islands which are named the Three Sisters in the present chart. Surville, the French navigator, who saw them in 1769, gave them the name of Les Trois Surs, which they still retain. At the present day they are uninhabited, and any water that could be obtained would be of a very doubtful quality. Fleurieu hints at the ident.i.ty of Les Trois Surs and Las Tres Marias.

"There is another island which lies three leagues from Las Tres Marias.

It is low, and the inhabitants are like those around. We named it the island of San Juan, and found in it a good harbour. We took possession of it in the name of His Majesty, as in the case of the other islands.

It is 6 leagues in circuit; and is in lat.i.tude 10?.[275]

[275] The San Juan of Gallego is evidently the island now known as Ugi. There is no apparent reference in this journal to the small adjacent island of Biu.