First Footsteps in East Africa Part 17

Spurring our mules we advanced at a long trot, when Mad Said stopped us to recite a Fatihah in honor of Ao Umar Siyad and Ao Rahmah, two great saints who repose under a clump of trees near the road. The soil on both sides of the path is rich and red: ma.s.ses of plantains, limes, and pomegranates denote the gardens, which are defended by a bleached cow's skull, stuck upon a short stick [33] and between them are plantations of coffee, b.a.s.t.a.r.d saffron, and the graceful Kat. About half a mile eastward of the town appears a burn called Jalah or the Coffee Water: the crowd crossing it did not prevent my companions bathing, and whilst they donned clean Tobes I retired to the wayside, and sketched the town.

These operations over, we resumed our way up a rough _tranchee_ ridged with stone and hedged with tall cactus. This ascends to an open plain. On the right lie the holcus fields, which reach to the town wall: the left is a heap of rude cemetery, and in front are the dark defences of Harar, with groups of citizens loitering about the large gateway, and sitting in chat near the ruined tomb of Ao Abdal. We arrived at 3 P.M., after riding about five hours, which were required to accomplish twenty miles in a straight direction. [34]

Advancing to the gate, Mad Said accosted a warder, known by his long wand of office, and sent our salams to the Amir, saying that we came from Aden, and requested the honor of audience. Whilst he sped upon his errand, we sat at the foot of a round bastion, and were scrutinised, derided, and catechized by the curious of both s.e.xes, especially by that conventionally termed the fair. The three Habr Awal presently approached and scowlingly inquired why we had not apprised them of our intention to enter the city.

It was now "war to the knife"--we did not deign a reply.

FOOTNOTES

[1] It is worn for a year, during which modest women will not marry. Some tribes confine the symbol to widowhood, others extend it to all male relations; a strip of white cotton, or even a white fillet, instead of the usual blue cloth, is used by the more civilized.

[2] Cain is said to repose under Jebel Shamsan at Aden--an appropriate sepulchre.

[3] This beast, called by the Somal Jambel, closely resembles the Sindh species. It is generally found in the plains and prairies.

[4] In the Somali country, as in Kafirland, the Duwao or jackal is peculiarly bold and fierce. Disdaining garbage, he carries off lambs and kids, and fastens upon a favourite _friandise_, the sheep's tail; the victim runs away in terror, and unless the jackal be driven off by dogs, leaves a delicate piece of fat behind it.

[5] The Somal call the owl "s.h.i.+mbir libah"--the lion bird.

[6] The plume was dark, chequered with white, but the bird was so wild that no specimen could be procured.

[7] The Arabs apply this term to tea.

[8] The Dayyib of the Somal, and the Sinaubar of the Arabs; its line of growth is hereabouts an alt.i.tude of 5000 feet.

[9] Travellers in Central Africa describe exactly similar buildings, bell- shaped huts, the materials of which are stakes, clay and reed, conical at the top, and looking like well-thatched corn-stacks.

[10] Amongst the Fellatahs of Western Africa, only the royal huts are surmounted by the ostrich's egg.

[11] These platforms are found even amongst the races inhabiting the regions watered by the Niger.

[12] Charred sticks about six feet long and curved at the handle.

[13] Equally simple are the other implements. The plough, which in Eastern Africa has pa.s.sed the limits of Egypt, is still the crooked tree of all primitive people, drawn by oxen; and the hoe is a wooden blade inserted into a k.n.o.bbed handle.

[14] It is afterwards stored in deep dry holes, which are carefully covered to keep out rats and insects; thus the grain is preserved undamaged for three or four years.

[15] This word is applied to the cultivated districts, the granaries of Somali land.

[16] "The huge raven with gibbous or inflated beak and white nape," writes Mr. Blyth, "is the corvus cra.s.sirostris of Ruppell, and, together with a nearly similar Cape species, is referred to the genus Corvultur of Leason."

[17] In these hills it is said sometimes to freeze; I never saw ice.

[18] It is a string of little silver bells and other ornaments made by the Arabs at Berberah.

[19] Harari, Somali and Galla, besides Arabic, and other more civilized dialects.

[20] The Negroes of Senegal and the Hottentots use wooden mortars. At Natal and amongst the Amazulu Kafirs, the work is done with slabs and rollers like those described above.

[21] In the Eastern World this well-known fermentation is generally called "Buzab," whence the old German word "busen" and our "booze." The addition of a dose of garlic converts it into an emetic.

[22] The Somal will not kill these plundering brutes, like the Western Africans believing them to be enchanted men.

[23] Some years ago Adan plundered one of Sharmarkay's caravans; repenting the action, he offered in marriage a daughter, who, however, died before nuptials.

[24] Gisti is a "princess" in Harari, equivalent to the Somali Geradah.

[25] They are, however, divided into clans, of which the following are the princ.i.p.al:--

1. Bahawiyah, the race which supplies the Gerads.

2. Abu Tunis (divided into ten septs).

3. Rer Ibrahim (similarly divided).

4. Jibril.

5. Bakasiyya.

6. Rer Muhmud.

7. Musa Dar.

8. Rer Auro.

9. Rer Walembo.

10. Rer Khalid.

[26] I do not describe these people, the task having already been performed by many abler pens than mine.

[27] They are divided into the Bah Ambaro (the chief's family) and the Shaykhashed.

[28] The only specimen of stunted humanity seen by me in the Somali country. He was about eighteen years old, and looked ten.

[29] At first I thought of writing it in Arabic; but having no seal, a _sine qua non_ in an Eastern letter, and reflecting upon the consequences of detection or even suspicion, it appeared more politic to come boldly forward as a European.

[30] It belongs, I was informed, to two clans of Gallas, who year by year in turn monopolise the profits.

[31] Of this tree are made the substantial doors, the basins and the porringers of Harar.

[32] The Webbe Shebayli or Haines River.

[33] This scarecrow is probably a talisman. In the Saharah, according to Richardson, the skull of an a.s.s averts the evil eye from gardens.

[34] The following is a table of our stations, directions, and distances:--

Miles 1. From Zayla to Gudingaras S.E. 165 19 2. To Kuranyali 145 8 3. To Adad 225 25 4. To Damal 205 11 5. To El Arno 190 11 6. To Jiyaf 202 10 7. To Halimalah (the Holy Tree about half way) 192 7 -- 91 miles.

8. To Aububah 245 21 9. To Koralay 165 25 10. To Harar 260 65 -- 111 miles.

--- Total statute miles 202

[Ill.u.s.tration: COSTUMES OF HARAR]

CHAP. VIII.