Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast Part 23

[116] Mount Wollaston, Quincy, Ma.s.sachusetts; present residence of John Quincy Adams, Esq.

[117] See "Ma.s.sachusetts Historical Collections," vol. iii., p. 63.

[118] British State Papers, Calendars.

[119] Spanish s.h.i.+p _Sagunto_, Carrera, seventy-three days from Cadiz for New York, arrived at Newport on Monday, January 11th, out of provisions and water, and the crew frost-bitten. Cargo, wine, raisins, and salt.

Saw no English cruisers, and spoke only one vessel, a Baltimore privateer.--_Columbian Centinel_, January 16th, 1813.

[120] Appledore, a small sea-port of England, County of Devon, parish of Northampton, on the Torridge, at its mouth in Barnstable Bay, two and a quarter miles north of Bideford. It is resorted to in summer as a bathing-place, and has a harbor subordinate to the port of Barnstable.--"Gazetteer."

[121] Levett says, "Upon these islands are no salvages at all."

[122] Mrs. Celia Laighton Thaxter.

[Ill.u.s.tration: WENTWORTH HOUSE, LITTLE HARBOR.]

CHAPTER XIII.

NEWCASTLE AND NEIGHBORHOOD.

"Yes--from the sepulchre we'll gather flowers, Then feast like spirits in their promised bowers, Then plunge and revel in the rolling surf, Then lay our limbs along the tender turf."--BYRON.

Another delightfully ruinous old corner is Newcastle, which occupies the island opposite Kittery Point, usually called Great Island. Between Newcastle and Kittery is the main s.h.i.+p-channel, with deep water and plenty of sea-room. On the south of Great Island is another entrance called Little Harbor, with shallow water and sandy bottom; its communication with the main river is now valueless, and little used except by fis.h.i.+ng-craft of small tonnage.

[Ill.u.s.tration: POINT OF GRAVES.]

In going from Portsmouth there are three bridges to be crossed to reach the town of Newcastle, situated on the northern sh.o.r.e of the island; or, if your aim be the southern sh.o.r.e, it is equally a pleasant drive or walk to the ancient seat of the Wentworths, at Little Harbor, from which you may, if a ferry-man be not at hand, hail the first pa.s.sing boat to take you to the island. I went there by the former route, so as to pa.s.s an hour among the tombstones in the old Point of Graves burial-ground, and returned by the latter in order to visit the Wentworth mansion.

The three bridges before mentioned connect as many islands with Portsmouth. They were built, it is said, at the suggestion of President Monroe, when he found Great Island somewhat difficult of access.

There appeared some symptoms of activity in the island fishery. As I pa.s.sed down, I noticed two Bankers lying in the diminutive harbor, and an acre or so of ground spread with flakes, on which cod-fish were being cured.

The little cove which makes the harbor of Newcastle has several wharves, some of them in ruins, and all left "high and dry" at low tide. The rotting timbers, sticking in crevices of the rocks, hung with sea-weed and studded with barnacles, told very plainly that the trade of the island was numbered among the things of the past.

Between the upper end of Great Island and the town of Portsmouth is a broad, deep, still basin, called in former times, and yet, as I suspect, by some of the oldsters, the Pool. This was the anchorage of the mast s.h.i.+ps, which made annual voyages between England and the Piscataqua, convoyed in war-time by a vessel of force. The arrival, lading, and departure of the mast s.h.i.+ps were the three events of the year in this old sea-place. Sometimes as many as seven were loading here at once, even as early as 1665. In the Pool, the _Astrea_, a twenty-gun s.h.i.+p, was destroyed by fire one cold morning in January, 1744.

The Earl of Bellomont, an Irish peer, writes to the Lords of Trade, in 1699, of the Piscataqua: "It is a most n.o.ble harbour," says his lords.h.i.+p; "the biggest s.h.i.+ps the king hath can lie against the bank at Portsmouth." He then advises the building of war vessels there for the king's service; and mentions that Charles II. had complimented the French king with the draughts of the best s.h.i.+ps in the British navy, and had thereby "given vent to that precious secret."

In the day when all of old Portsmouth was crowded between what is now Pleasant Street and the river, it is easy to imagine the water-side streets and alleys frequented by sailors in pigtails and petticoats; the mighty carousals and roaring choruses; the dingy, well-smoked dram-shops; the stews and slums of back streets, and the jolly larks and affrays with the night-watch. Rear-admiral "the brave Benbow, sirs," has landed at these old quays from his barge, followed as closely as a rolling gait would permit by some old sea-dog of a valet, with cutla.s.s stuck in a broad, leathern belt, exactly at the middle of his back. The admiral was doubtless on his way to some convivial rencounter, where the punch was strong, and where the night not infrequently terminated little to the advantage of the quarter-deck over the forecastle.

The s.h.i.+ps of that day were wonderfully made. Their bows crouched low in the water, their curiously carved and ornamented sterns rose high above it. The bowsprit was crossed by a heavy spar, on which a square-sail was hoisted. Chain cables had not been invented, and hempen ones, as thick as the mainmast, held the s.h.i.+p at her anchors. Colored battle lanterns were fixed above the taffrail; watches and broadsides were regulated by the hour-gla.s.s. The sterns and bulging quarter-galleries of Spanish, French, and Portuguese war s.h.i.+ps were so incrusted with gilding it seemed a pity to batter them with shot. Think of Nelson knocking the _Holy Trinity_ into a c.o.c.ked hat, or the _Twelve Apostles_ into the middle of next week!

[Ill.u.s.tration: OLD HOUSE, GREAT ISLAND.]

There are many old houses on Great Island. The quaintness of one that stands within twenty yards of the river is always remarked in sailing by. I could not learn its age, but hazard the conjecture it was there before James II. abdicated.

The visitor, as in duty bound, should go to the chamber of the selectmen, where the town charter given by William and Mary, in 1693, is displayed on the wall, engrossed in almost unintelligible black-letter.[123] The records of Newcastle have had a curious history.

After a disappearance of nearly fifty years, they were recovered within a year or two in England. The first volume is bound in vellum, and, though somewhat dog-eared, is perfect. The entries are in a fair round-hand, beginning in 1693, when Lieutenant-governor Usher signed the grant for the towns.h.i.+p of Newcastle.

Among the earliest records, I noticed one of five s.h.i.+llings paid for a pair of stocks; and of a gallery put up, in 1694, in the meeting-house, for the women to sit in. Any townsman entertaining a stranger above fourteen days, without acquainting the selectmen, was to be fined. What would now be thought of domiciliary visits like the following? "One householder or more to walk every day in sermon-time with the constable to every publick-house in ye town, to suppress ill orders, and, if they think convenient, to private houses also."

[Ill.u.s.tration: OLD TOWER, NEWCASTLE.]

I found the town quiet enough, but the youngsters noisy and ill-bred.

There seemed also to be an unusual number of loiterers about the village stores; I sometimes pa.s.sed a row of them, squatted, like greyhounds, on their heels, in the sun. Those I noticed whittled, tossed coppers, or laughed and talked loudly. Many of the men were employed at Kittery Navy Yard.

From observation and inquiry I am well a.s.sured our Government dock-yards are, as a rule, of little benefit to the neighboring population. The Government pays a higher price for less labor than private persons find it for their interest to do. The work is intermittent; and it happens quite too frequently that the dock-yard employe is always expecting to be taken on, and will not go to work outside of the yard; he is especially unwilling at wages less than the Government ordinarily pays, upon which labor in the vicinity of the yard is usually gauged.

A charming ramble of an afternoon is to Fort Const.i.tution, built on a protruding point of rocks washed by the tide. When I saw it the old fortress was casting its sh.e.l.l, lobster-like, for a stronger. The odd old foot-paths among the ledges zigzag now to the right or left, as they are thrust aside by intruding ledges. Much history is contained within the four walls of the work.[124] Adjoining is a light-house, originally erected in 1771.

[Ill.u.s.tration: GATEWAY, OLD FORT CONSt.i.tUTION.]

While engaged in sketching the gate-way and portcullis of old Fort Const.i.tution, I was accosted by a person, with a strong German accent, who repeated, word for word, as I should judge, a mandate of the War Office against the taking of any of its old ruins by wandering _artists_. He then walked away, leaving me to finish my sketch without further interruption.

On a rocky eminence overlooking the fortress is a martello tower, built during the war of 1812, to guarantee the main work against a landing on the beach at the south side. It has three embrasures, and was begun on a Sunday, while two English frigates were lying off the Isles of Shoals.

Sally-port and casemates are choked with debris, the parapet gra.s.s-grown, and the whole in picturesque ruin. Many of these towers were erected on the south coast of England during the Napoleonic wars to repel the expected invasion.

Another pleasant walk is to Little Harbor, taking by the way a look at the old house near Jaffrey's Point, that is verging on two hundred years, yet seems staunch and strong. The owner believes it to be the same in which Governor Cranfield[125] held colonial courts. This was one of the attractive sites of the island, until Government began the construction of formidable earth-works at a short distance from the farmstead. The Isles of Shoals are plainly distinguished, and with a field-gla.s.s the little church on Star Island may be made out in clear weather. I enjoyed a walk on the rampart at evening, when the lights on Whale's Back, Boon Island, White Island, and Squam were seen flas.h.i.+ng their take-heed through the darkness.

Little Harbor, where there is a summer hotel, was the site of the first settlement on the island. At Odiorne's Point, on the opposite sh.o.r.e, was commenced, in 1623, the settlement of New Hamps.h.i.+re. It is now proposed to commemorate the event itself, and the spot on which the first house was built, by a monument.[126]

Captain John Mason is known as the founder of New Hamps.h.i.+re. His biography is interwoven with the times of the giant Richelieu and the pigmy Buckingham. He was treasurer and pay-master of the king's armies during the war with Spain. He was governor of Portsmouth Castle when Felton struck his knife into the duke's left side; it is said, in Mason's own house. The name of Portsmouth in New Hamps.h.i.+re was given by him to this outgrowth of Portsmouth in old Hamps.h.i.+re. At a time when all England was fermenting, it seems pa.s.sing strange Gorges and Mason should have persisted in their scheme to gain a lodgment in New England.

In Sir Walter Scott's "Ivanhoe" the following pa.s.sage occurs: "The ancient forest of Sherwood lay between Sheffield and Doncaster. The remains of this extensive wood are still to be seen at the n.o.ble seat of Wentworth. * * * Here hunted of yore the fabulous Dragon of Wantley, and here were fought many of the most desperate battles during the Civil Wars of the Roses; and here also flourished in ancient times those bands of gallant outlaws whose deeds have been rendered so popular in English story."

[Ill.u.s.tration: SIR THOMAS WENTWORTH, WENTWORTH HOUSE, LITTLE HARBOR.]

Reginald Wentworth, lord of the manor of Wentworth, in Berks, A.D. 1066, is considered the common ancestor of the Wentworths of England and America. The unfortunate Earl of Strafford was a Wentworth. On the dissolution of the monasteries, Newstead Abbey was conferred on Sir John Byron by Henry VIII. Its site was in the midst of the fertile and interesting region once known as Sherwood Forest. Here was pa.s.sed the early youth of the brilliant and gifted George, Lord Byron, and in the little church of Newstead his remains were laid. The name and t.i.tle of Baroness Wentworth were in 1856 a.s.sumed by Lady Byron, whose grandfather was Sir Edward Noel, Lord Wentworth.

[Ill.u.s.tration: MARQUIS OF ROCKINGHAM.]

Another of the distinguished of this ill.u.s.trious family was the Marquis of Rockingham, who voted for the repeal of the Stamp Act, and acted with Chatham against Lord North.[127] It was at him, while minister, the pasquinade was leveled,

"You had better declare, which you may without shocking 'em, The nation's asleep and the minister Rocking'em."

The seat of the Wentworths at Little Harbor is at the mouth of Sagamore Creek, not more than two miles from town. Among a group of aged houses in the older quarter of Portsmouth, that of Samuel Wentworth is still pointed out.[128] His monument may also be seen in the ancient burial-place of Point of Graves. The family seem to have been statesmen by inheritance. There were three chief-magistrates of New Hamps.h.i.+re of the name, viz.: John, the son of Samuel; Benning, the son of John; and John, the nephew of Benning.

The exterior of the mansion does not of itself keep touch and time with the preconceived idea of colonial magnificence. Its architectural deformity would have put Ruskin beside himself. A rambling collection of buildings, seemingly the outgrowth of different periods and conditions, are incorporated into an inharmonious whole. The result is an oddity in wood. Doubtless the builder was content with it. If so, I have little disposition to be critical.

Beyond this, the visitor may not refuse his unqualified approval of the site, which is charming, of the surroundings--the mansion was embowered in blooming lilacs when I saw it--and of the general air of snugness and of comfort, rather than elegance, which seems the proper atmosphere of the Wentworth House.