A Week's Tramp in Dickens-Land Part 30

"Those are nice chrysanthemums in your garden," we observe. "Yes, they are, sir," he replies; "but if they had been better attended to when they was young, they'd have been nicer." "Well, I suppose both of us would," is the rejoinder. We are in touch on the instant. Our new acquaintance laughs, and so a question or two is put to him, and the following is the substance of his answers, rendered _a la_ Jingle but very feelingly:--

"Mr. d.i.c.kens was a nice sort of man--very much liked--missed a great deal when he died--poor people and the like felt the miss of him. He was a man as s.h.i.+fted a good deal of money in the place. You see, he had a lot of friends--kept a good many horses,--and then there was the men to attend to 'em, and the corn-chandler, the blacksmith, the wheelwright, and others to be paid--the poor--and such-like--felt the miss of him when he died."

"How long have you lived here?"

"Well, I come in '45, eleven years before Mr. d.i.c.kens."

"And I suppose you are over sixty."

"Well, sir, I shall never see seventy again."

Wis.h.i.+ng our friend "good-night," we continue our tramp. On another occasion we met, in the same place, a third specimen of village labourer, "a mender of roads," who knew Charles d.i.c.kens, and so we walked and chatted pleasantly with him for some distance. Said our informant, "You see, Mr. d.i.c.kens was a very liberal man; he held his head high up when he walked, and went at great strides." The "mender of roads" was some years ago a candidate for a vacant place as under-gardener at Gad's Hill, but the situation was filled up just an hour before he applied for it. He said Mr. d.i.c.kens gave him half-a-crown, and afterwards always recognized him when he met him with a pleasant nod, or cheerfully "pa.s.sed the time of day." We heard in many places that d.i.c.kens was "always kindly" in this way to his own domestics, and to the villagers in a like station of life to our intelligent friend "the mender of roads." A fourth villager, a groom, who had been in his present situation for twenty years, said:--"Both the old gentleman and young Mr. Charles were very much liked in Higham.

There wasn't a single person in the place, I believe, but what had a good word for them."

It may be interesting to mention that Higham--the old name of which was Lillechurch--is an extensive parish divided into several hamlets. In a useful little book published in 1882, called _A Handbook of Higham_, the Rev. C. H. Fielding, M.A., the author, says:--"There are few parishes more interesting than Higham, as it provides food for the antiquarian and the student of Nature; while its position near the 'Medway smooth, and the Royal-masted Thame,' affords to the artist many an opportunity for a picture, while the idler has the privilege of lovely views." Mr.

Roach Smith was of opinion that Higham was the seat of "a great Roman pottery." A Monastery of importance existed here for several centuries, Mary, daughter of King Stephen, being one of the Prioresses; but it was dissolved by Henry VIII. The list of flowering plants given in Mr.

Fielding's book is extensive and interesting, and contains many rarities.

A "Cheap Jack," a veritable Doctor Marigold, had taken up his quarters at Higham, and we loiter among the bystanders to hear his patter. We feel quite sure that had d.i.c.kens been present he would have listened and been as amused with him as ourselves. We heard a few days previously the public crier going round in his cart, announcing the arrival of this worthy by ringing his bell and proclaiming in a stentorian voice something to this effect:--

"The public is respectfully informed that the Cheap Jack has arrived, bringing with him a large a.s.sortment of London, Birmingham, and Sheffield goods, together with a choice collection of gla.s.s and earthenware, which he will sell every evening at the most reasonable prices."

On our arrival here we find him on his rostrum surrounded by some flaring naphtha lamps, and thus disposing of some penny books of songs: "Now, ladies and gentlemen, what shall we have the pleasure of saying for this handsome book, containing over a hundred songs sung by all the great singers of the day--Macdermott, Madam Langtry, Sims Reeves, and other eminent vocalists--besides numerous toasts and readings. Well, I won't ask sixpence, and I won't take fivepence, fourpence, threepence, twopence--no, I only ask a penny. Sold again, and got the money. Take care of the ha'pence" (to his a.s.sistant), "for we gives them to the blind when they can see to pick 'em up." We of course bought a copy of the famous collection as a "d.i.c.kens-item."

Before returning to Rochester we are anxious to identify the blacksmith's shop where the _feu de joie_ was fired from "two smuggled cannons," in honour of the marriage of Miss Kate d.i.c.kens to Mr. Charles Collins. Alterations have taken place which render identification impossible; but a local blacksmith, who has established himself here, gives us some interesting particulars of the games in which he took part. He mentions also a circ.u.mstance relating to d.i.c.kens's favourite horse, Toby. It appears that it was an express wish of the novelist that when he died this horse should be shot; and according to our informant the horse was shod on the Tuesday before the 9th of June (the day of d.i.c.kens's death), and shot on the following Monday. The gun was loaded with small shot, and poor Toby died immediately it was fired. The blacksmith thoroughly confirms the opinion of the old labourers as to the kindness of Charles d.i.c.kens to his poorer neighbours. A curious episode occurs in our conference with this man: he seems under the impression, which no amount of a.s.sertion on our part can overcome, that my friend and fellow tramp, Mr. Kitton, is Mr. Henry Fielding d.i.c.kens.

Whether there was any facial resemblance or likeness of manner did not transpire, but again and again he kept saying, "Now ain't you Harry d.i.c.kens?" Among the names at Higham we notice that of a well-remembered d.i.c.kens character--Mr. Stiggins!

On arriving at Higham Railway Station, we chat a bit with the station-master and porter there, but both are comparatively fresh comers and knew not Charles d.i.c.kens. After an enjoyable but somewhat fatiguing tramp, we are glad to take a late evening train from Higham to Strood, and thus ends our inspection of the land of "the Meshes."

By the kindness of Mr. Henry Smetham (locally famed as the "Laureate of Strood"), we subsequently had an introduction to Mrs. Taylor, formerly school-mistress at Higham, who came there in 1860, and remained until some years after the death of Charles d.i.c.kens. She knew the novelist well, and used to see him almost every day when he was at home. She said, "If I had met him and did not know who he was, I should have set him down as a good-hearted English gentleman." He was very popular and much liked in the neighbourhood. On his return from America, in the first week of May, 1868, garlands of flowers were put by the villagers across the road from the railway station to Gad's Hill. There was a flag at Gad's (a Union Jack, she thinks), which was always hoisted when d.i.c.kens was at home. He never read at Higham, and never came to the school; but he always allowed the use of the meadow at the back of Gad's Hill Place for the school treats, either of church or chapel, and contributed to such treats sweets and what not.

Mrs. Taylor remembers that the carriage was sent down from Gad's Hill Place to the Higham railway station nearly every night at ten o'clock to meet either Charles d.i.c.kens or his friends. It pa.s.sed the school, and she well recollects the pleasant sound made by the bells. She heard d.i.c.kens read _Sairey Gamp_ in London once, and did not like the dress he wore, but thought the reading very wonderful.

This lady says she was in London at the time of the death of Charles d.i.c.kens, the announcement of which she saw on a newspaper placard, and was ill the whole of the day afterwards. It was a sorrowful day for her.

We are much indebted to Mrs. Budden of Gad's Hill Place for the following interesting particulars which she obtained from Mrs. Easedown, of Higham, "who was parlour-maid to Mr. d.i.c.kens, and left to be married on the 8th of June, the day he was seized with the fit. She says it was her duty to hoist the flag on the top of the house directly Mr. d.i.c.kens arrived at Gad's Hill. It was a small flag, not more than fourteen inches square, and was kept in the billiard-room. She says he was the dearest and best gentleman that ever lived, and the kindest of masters.

He asked her to stay and wait at table the night he was taken ill; she said if he wished it she would, and then he said, 'Never mind; I don't feel well.' She saw him after he was dead, laid out in the dining-room, when his coffin was covered with scarlet geraniums--his favourite flower. The flower-beds on the lawns at Gad's Hill in his time were always filled with scarlet geraniums; they have since been done away with. Over the head of the coffin was the oil painting of himself as a young man (probably Maclise's portrait)--on one side a picture of 'Dolly Varden,' and on the other 'Kate Nickleby.' He gave Mrs. Easedown, on the day she left his service, a photograph of himself with his name written on the back. Each of the other servants at Gad's Hill Place was presented with a similar photograph. She said he was unusually busy at the time of his death, as on the Monday morning he ordered breakfast to be ready during the week at 7.30 ('Sharp, mind') instead of his usual time, 9 o'clock, as he said 'he had so much to do before Friday.'

But--'Such a thing was never to be,' for on the Thursday he breathed his last!"

Mrs. Wright, the wife of Mr. Henry Wright, surveyor of Higham, lived four years at Gad's Hill Place as parlour-maid. She is the proud possessor of some interesting relics of her late master. These include his soup-plate, a meerschaum pipe (presented to him, but he chiefly smoked cigars--he was not a great smoker), a wool-worked kettle-holder (which he constantly used), and a pair of small bellows. When she was married Mr. d.i.c.kens presented her with a China tea service, "not a single piece of which," said Mrs. Wright proudly, "has been broken."

She remembers, at the time of her engagement as parlour-maid, that the servants told her to let a gentleman in at the front door who was approaching. She didn't know who it was, as she had never seen Mr.

d.i.c.kens before. She opened the door, and the gentleman entered in a very upright manner, and after thanking her, looked hard at her, and then walked up-stairs. On returning to the kitchen the servants asked who it was that had just come in. She replied, "I don't know, but I think it was the master." "Did he speak?" they asked. "No," said she, "but he looked at me in a very determined way." Said they, "He was reading your character, and he now knows you thoroughly," or words to that effect.

As parlour-maid, it was part of her duty to carve and wait on her master specially. The dinner serviettes were wrapped up in a peculiar manner, and Mrs. Wright remembers that Lord Darnley's servants were always anxious to learn how the folding was done, but they never discovered the secret. At dinner-parties, it was the custom to place a little "b.u.t.ton-hole" for each guest. This was mostly made up of scarlet geranium (d.i.c.kens's favourite flower), with a bit of the leaf and a frond of maidenhair fern. On one occasion in her early days, the dinner-lift (to the use of which she was unaccustomed) broke and ran down quickly, smas.h.i.+ng the crockery and bruising her arm. Mr. d.i.c.kens jumped up quickly and said, "Never mind the breakage; is your arm hurt?" As it was painful, he immediately applied arnica to the bruise, and gave her a gla.s.s of port wine, "treating me," Mrs. Wright remarked, "more like a child of his own than a servant."

When she was married, and left Gad's Hill, she brought her first child to show her former master. He took notice of it, and asked her what he could buy as a present. She thanked him, and said she did not want anything. On leaving he gently put a sovereign into the baby's little hand, and said, "Buy something with that."

Mrs. Wright spoke of the great interest which d.i.c.kens took in the children's treats at Higham, lending his meadow for them, providing sweets and cakes for the little ones, and apples to be scrambled for. He took great delight in seeing the scrambles.

She also referred to the cricket club, and said that when the matches were going on it was a regular holiday at Higham. d.i.c.kens used to take the scores, and at the end of the game he gave prizes and made little speeches. Her husband, Mr. Henry Wright, acted as secretary to the club, and is the possessor of a letter written by Mr. d.i.c.kens, in reply to an address which had been presented to him, of which letter the following is a copy:--

"GAD'S HILL PLACE, "HIGHAM BY ROCHESTER, KENT.

"_Tuesday, 29th July, 1862._

"DEAR SIR,

"As your name is the first on the list of signatures to the little address I have had the pleasure of receiving--on my return from a short absence--from the greater part of the players in the match the other day, I address my reply to you.

"I beg you to a.s.sure the rest that it will always give me great pleasure to lend my meadow for any such good purpose, and that I feel a sincere desire to be a good friend to the working men in this neighbourhood. I am always interested in their welfare, and am always heartily glad to see them enjoying rational and healthful recreation.

"It did not escape my notice that some expressions were used the other day which would have been better avoided, but I dismiss them from my mind as being probably unintentional, and certainly opposed to the general good feeling and good sense.

"Faithfully yours, "CHARLES d.i.c.kENS.

"MR. H. WRIGHT."

Both Mrs. Easedown and Mrs. Wright informed us (through Mrs. Budden) that "Mr. d.i.c.kens was the best of masters, and a dear good man; that he gave a great deal away in the parish, and was very much missed; that he frequently went to church and sat in the chancel. . . . When he lived in Higham there used to be a great deal of ague, and he gave away an immense quant.i.ty of port wine and quinine. Since the Cement Works have been at Cliffe there has been very little ague at Higham."

Mr. Robert Lake Cobb, of Mockbeggar House, Higham, a land agent of high position and a County Councillor, told us that he took in the _Pickwick Papers_ as they appeared in numbers, and he recollected how eagerly he read them, and how tiresome it was to have to wait month by month until the story was finished. The book made a tremendous sensation at the time. Many years afterwards Charles d.i.c.kens came to reside at Gad's Hill Place, and the families became intimate. "Mr. d.i.c.kens," observed our informant, "was a very pleasant neighbour, and had always got something nice to say. He was a dreadful man to walk--very few could keep up with him."

Mr. Cobb had one son, Herbert, who was a playfellow of d.i.c.kens's boys; and as ill.u.s.trative of the interest he took in his neighbours, on one occasion the novelist and our informant were talking over matters, when the former said, "What are you going to bring your boy up to?" "A land agent," replied Mr. Cobb. "Ah," said the novelist, "whatever you do, make him self-reliant." He thought that of all the sons Mr. Henry Fielding d.i.c.kens most resembled his father.

Among the notable people Mr. Cobb met at Gad's Hill Place were Mr.

Forster, Mr. Wilkie Collins, Mr. Fechter the actor, and others. When Hans Christian Andersen was visiting there, d.i.c.kens took him to Higham Church. Mr. Cobb spoke of the pleasant picnic parties which d.i.c.kens gave on Blue Bell Hill. He was of opinion that Cob-Tree Hall in that neighbourhood, about one and a half miles from Aylesford, nearly parallel with the river, suggested the original of Manor Farm, Dingley Dell. It formerly belonged to Mr. Franklin, and is now occupied by Major Trousdell. Mr. Cobb believed that d.i.c.kens took the t.i.tle of _No Thoroughfare_--which he and Wilkie Collins contributed to the 1867 number of _All the Year Round_, and in the dramatizing of which d.i.c.kens subsequently was so interested--from the notice-boards which were put up by Lord Darnley in many parts of Cobham Park.

On one occasion our informant remembers a stoppage of the train in Higham tunnel, which caused some consternation to the pa.s.sengers, as no explanation of the delay was forthcoming from any of the railway officials. The station-master coming up at the time, d.i.c.kens remarked--"Ah! an unwilling witness, Mr. Wood."

Mr. Cobb mentioned that Miss Hogarth, d.i.c.kens's sister-in-law, was a great favourite in the neighbourhood, from her kindness and thoughtfulness for all with whom she came in contact, and especially the poor of Higham.

FOOTNOTES:

[35] Speaking of Hoo, Lambarde says (1570)--"Hoh in the old English signifieth sorrow or sickness, wherewith the Inhabitants of that unwholesome Hundred be very much exercised[!]."

[36] Lambarde says, "The Town [of Cliffe at Hoo] is large, and hath hitherto a great Parish Church: and (as I have been told) many of the houses were casually burned (about the same time that the Emperor _Charles_ came into this Realme to visite King _Henry_ the eight), of which hurt it was never thorowly cured."

CHAPTER XIII.