Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 14

_April 5th_.--Reached the mines after a march of about four hours; our course was winding, continuing through jungle and small patches of plain, until we reached the base of that part of the Kuwa Boom which we were to cross, and which bore N.W. from the place at which we slept. The ascent was steep in some places, it bore in a N.N.W. direction, princ.i.p.ally through a bamboo jungle. From a clear s.p.a.ce half way up, we had a fine and pretty view of the hills and plains, especially to the S. and S.E. In the former direction, and distant about fifteen miles, we saw on our return, the Endaw Gyee, but we could not estimate its size or figure; it is evidently however a large sheet of water; the natives say, several miles across. From the summit, we likewise had a fine view of the country to the E.; very few plains were visible in this direction. Nearly due east, and about thirty miles off, was visible Shewe Down Gyee, and this will make Camein nearly due east also, or E. by S. The descent pa.s.sed through similar jungle, that at the foot being damp. The course continued in a direction varying from S. to W., or rather between these points, through damp jungle. We then ascended another steep hill, but not exceeding 5 or 600 feet in height; descending from this, and pa.s.sing through low tree and then bamboo jungle, we reached the mines.

The road was, up to the base of Kuwa Boom on the W. side, very good, thence it was in general bad; wet, slippery, much impeded by blocks of serpentine, and foliated limestone (Bayfield) crossing several streams, mountain torrents, the princ.i.p.al one being Sapya Khioung. This takes its name from a spring of water of alkaline properties, which bubbles up sparingly from under its rocky bed, and which must be covered during the rains. The water is clear, of a pure alkaline taste, and is used by the natives as soap.

The mines occupy a valley of a somewhat semi-circular form, bounded on all sides by hills clothed with trees, none being of very great height.

The valley pa.s.ses off to the N. into a ravine, down which the small stream that percolates the valley escapes, and in this at about a coss distant other pits occur. The surface of the valley apparently at one time consisted of low rounded hillocks; it is now much broken, and choked up with the earth and stones that have been thrown up by excavating. The stone is found in the form of more or less rounded boulders imbedded with others, such as quartz, etc. in brickish-yellow or nearly orange clay.

The boulders vary much in size. There is no regularity in the pits, which are dug indiscriminately; some have the form of ditches, none exceed 20 feet in depth. They are dug all over the valley, as well as on the base of the hill bounding it to the W. and N.W. We could not obtain any good specimens, nor is there any thing in the spot that repays the visit. No machinery is used, the larger blocks are broken by fire. But that they are of importance in the light of increasing the revenue, is evident, from the fact that B. counted, since we left Camein, 1,100 people on their return, of whom about 700 were Shan Chinese. The loads carried away are in some cases very heavy; the larger pieces are carried on bamboo frames by from two to five men, the lesser on a stout piece of bamboo lashed to and supported on two cross or forked bamboos, the stouter joint resting on the bearer's neck, the handles of the forks being carried in his hands. The most obvious advantage of this is the ease with which the load may be taken off, when the bearer is fatigued.

The revenue yielded last year, B. tells me, was 320 viss of silver, or about 40,000 rupees. The length of the valley from E. to W. is about three quarters of a mile; its breadth varies from 460 to 800 yards.

On our return we boiled water at the Soap spring, which is about 50 feet above the mines, Temp. of the air 80.5. 2.5 P.M. of boiling water 209.

Elevation 1600 feet. And on the top of Kuwa Boom, which is crossed at a comparatively low place, at 4.5 P.M. Temp. of the air 76, of boiling water 207. Elevation 2678 feet.

I can say nothing as to the peculiar features of the vegetation, in the woods towards Kuwa Boom. I gathered three Aurantiaceae; the Olacinea of yesterday is common, a large arborescent Artocarpus fructibus oblongis sub-informibus, sub-acidulis, .75 uncialibus; Teak rarely; Tonabea, n.o.ble specimens occur; on the Kuwa Boom, a large Gordonia arborea, two arborescent Myrtacea, large Mangoes, Bamboo, a Morinda; Magnoliaecea occurs on its western face, as well as the Conifera toxoidea before gathered. d.i.c.ksonia and Pladera justicioidea both occur. Dianella nemorosa, etc. The Serpentine is carried from Keoukseik in boats down the Endaw Kioung, thence to Camein, and from whence it goes to Mogam, which is probably the princ.i.p.al mart. Calamus spioris petiolorum uncialibus verticillatis occurs in abundance in all the damp jungle.

We returned in the afternoon to our halting place of yesterday, from which the mines are distant ten miles, four of which occur from the side of Kuwa Boom to the West. The Endaw Gyee is situated on a plain, but it is enclosed by hills on every side except the S.E. Those to the south are very high.

_April 6th_.--Returned, diverging from the path to the village Keoukseik. Noticed Liriodendron, AEsculus, Achyranthis aspera, Vallaris solanacea, etc.

The village is situated to the S. of the road to the mines; it is close to the Nam Teen, and on a small elevation; it is stockaded. The number of houses is about sixteen; of inhabitants, including children, 120: all the houses, except two, being small. The merchants, etc. employed about the mines, halt on the Nam Theen, which is up to this point navigable for small boats.

Thermometer 66. 6.5 A.M. Temp. of boiling water 210.

_April 8th_.--Reached Camein at noon: halted on the 7th at our former hut on the Endaw Kioung. The additional plants noticed are d.u.c.h.esnia indica, common in wet places; a Bamboo, paniculis (culmis) nutantibus aphyllis, amplus. Panda.n.u.s; Curculigo pumila, floribus sub-solitarius ante folia, 6 vel. 4 part.i.tis; a Careya, Dillenia, arborea floribus numerosis parvis luteis.

AEschynomena, Anthistiria arundinacea, Composita arborea, 40-50 pedalis.

Another species of Anthistiria, common on the margins of hills during the march. Fir trees are reported to exist on _Lioe Peik_, which bears South from Kioukseik. Volcanic hills reported to exist near the Endaw Gyee, but no salt rock occurs. This mineral is said to be found three days' march from Kioukseik on the Nam Theen. The revenue said to accrue from the Serpentine mines, is probably highly exaggerated; and the supply of the stone is said to be diminis.h.i.+ng yearly. Casually found on the Nam Toroon, a Sterculia arborea, florib-masculis clavato, infundibul.

coccineis, p.u.b.escentibus: a Sophora, floribus albidis pallidissima ceruleo tinctis, of which the flowers alone were seen; Prenanthis flosentis citrinis, a Polygala and Hyperic.u.m were likewise found.

_April 9th_.--Left Camein at 6, and reached Mogoung at 6 P.M. after a march of at least twenty-five miles. The course at first was nearly due east, until we reached the Nam Pong, but subsequently it became more southerly. Camein bears from this about S.S.E. The country traversed was the same, generally comparatively open, that is to say, gra.s.sy plains with Rhamnea, Nauclea, Bombax, etc. For some distance the path extended through shady woods. No villages, nor any signs of such were observed _en route_. We pa.s.sed many streamlets particularly during the latter half of the march. Our original intention was to have come to Mogoung by water, and with this view Bayfield told the man sent by the Myoowook to procure two or three canoes. At 6 A.M. the Havildar came up to our hut, and said that the headman of the village was disputing violently about our taking the boats. Bayfield proceeded down to the river side, where the Yua Thugee was very insolent, and he and his followers drew their _dhaos_ (swords) on Bayfield, who slightly pushed the Thugee. It ended in our going by land. We had previously heard of the rebellion at Ava: the Thugee's behaviour evidently arose partly from this. I did not observe the dispute, as I remained near the stockade.

Noticed a Lonicera in low places, and the Viola of Suddiya on the plains, a Cardiopteris, Kempferia, Curc.u.ma, a Bambusa vaginis collo barbatis, a scandent Strychnos, an Aerides, Ardisiae 2, some Acanthaceae, Loxotis major, Urticeae 2 or 3, Santalacea as before, Tetrantherae, Davallia atrata, Asplenium fronde simplici, etc. etc.

_April 10th_.--We halt, and hear a report of the death of Mr. Kincaid, and that a Burmese army is _en route_ here. The whole country is most unsettled, all the Singphos and Khukeens being in open rebellion. It appears that Thurrawaddi is meeting with success in his summons for men.

No resistance shewn to his authority hitherto except by one Myoowoon. Our Myoowoon has absented himself, and the Myoowook determined on surrender.

Bayfield under all circ.u.mstances, and failing authentic intelligence of Mr. Kincaid, resolves on remaining here.

Mogam is a rather pretty town, situated on the right bank of the Mogoung river, at the confluence of a river 100 yards broad, the water of which spreads out, in some places, to a considerable breadth and depth. The country is however low, flooded in the rains, and surrounded by hills, except in the direction of Shewe Down Gyee. In many places it is only covered with gra.s.s. The town is large, and was formerly stockaded, the remains of the timber stockade being still visible. It contains about 300 houses, about 2,500 inhabitants, mostly Shans. The houses are generally raised, in many cases like those of the Kampties, the chopper coming low down, shaped like a turtle's back. There is a very distinct opening or chasm in the hills between S. D. Gyee and a low range to the North, but no river makes its exit there. Sunday, 16th.

_April 18th_.--Halted up to this date, waiting for information especially regarding the army at Tsenbo.

In this place two fragrant Dipterocarpeae are found; as also Bixa, Tamarindus, and Carthamus, which last is cultivated and used both for food and dyeing. About the Poongie houses some remarkable Fici occur, the trunk being divided so low down as to give the idea of a group of several trees. The roots in addition are made to spread over the conical mounds, thrown up at their bases.

A race of wild-looking short men, called Lupai Khakoos, inhabit this vicinity, wearing a jacket, and dark-blue cloth with an ornamented border, worn with the ends overlapping in front. They wear garters of the Suwa. Their hair is worn either long or cropped, and a beard is also occasionally worn by the elders.

In this place very few regular Chinese are to be found, and the few that are here seen, are ultra-provincials; none are acquainted with the manufacture of tea. This article is procurable here, but at a high rate; it is sold in flat cakes of some diameter; it is black, coa.r.s.e, with scarcely any smell, and in taste not much superior to the a.s.samese article; 20 tickals weight sells for 1.25. All the blue cloths of the Shans are dyed, Bayfield informs me, with Ruellia, or jungle indigo.

It is with these people that the only trade seems to be carried on, and this is limited to amber and serpentine. They are very dirty, and excessively penurious, but industrious. Owing to their habits and extreme penury, there is no outlet for our manufactures in this direction; so that I fully agree with Hannay's statement, that 500 rupees worth of British goods would be unabsorbed for some years. Rosa is common, also a Rumex; a Sisymbroid plant also occurs. Among the trees, all which are stunted, Gmelina arborea occurs. There are some a.s.samese slaves here among the people, one of them is said to be a relation of Chundra Kant, the Suddiya chief: slaves are held in very small estimation with the Burmese. Thus Bayfield asked his writer, who such a one standing near him was, whether a Shan or Singpho? The man answered, "My lord, it is not a man; it is a Waidalee."

Altogether, Mogoung is an uninteresting place; the surrounding plains are barren-looking, and inhospitable, and clothed with gra.s.s. Here and there a ragged Nauclea, Careya, etc. is visible with Gmelina arborea. The undershrubs are chiefly a Rhamnoidea, and a Phyllanthus. Rosa is common; Rumex and Nasturtium are both met with.

News arrived yesterday evening to the effect, that the King is drowned, the heir-apparent in the palace: and that Colonel Burney is with Thurrawadi!!!

My collections up to this place amount to 900 species.

_April 19th_.--Left at 12, and halted after having gone about four miles. The river continues the same as above; it is a good deal impeded by trees, and much more so by sandbanks.

_April 20th_.--Reached Tapaw in the afternoon; our progress is, however, very slow the stream being slight, but the river is much improved; being less spread out, owing to its greater proximity to the low hills: often very deep, generally clothed with jungle to the water's edge. On the hills near Tapaw are some Khukeens of the Thampraw tribe, and on these hills bitter tea is reported to be found. This the Khukeens bring down for sale.

_April 21st_.--Continued our course, performing about twelve miles between 7 and 5, inclusive of one hour's halt. At some distance from Tapaw and thence throughout the day, here and there occur rapids, which are much worse, from the stream being impeded by large rocks. In some places it is divided, in others, compressed between hills, and here it is very deep.

_April 23rd_.--Arrived at the Irrawaddi. The Mogoung river is very uninteresting; the stream being generally slow, sandbanks very abundant, as well as stumps of sunken trees. At its mouth it is deep, and about seventy yards across. The banks are either overgrown with trees or else gra.s.sy; the gra.s.ses being Arundo and Saccharum. On the steep banks of the hills where these descend into the river, ferns are common together with an Amaryllidea out of flower. Cadaba is common, as well as a large Mimosea. Rosa continues; as also AEsculus. On the road by which the Chinese branch off from Tapaw to the Irrawaddi, I gathered an arborescent Apocynea foliis suboppositis, and a Homalineous tree, floribus tetrameris; Salix is common all down the river. Teak only occurs occasionally. In one place I gathered Lonicera heterophylla, a fragrant Valeriana? and Jonesia in abundance; this last being here apparently quite wild. Adelia nereifolia, a Ficus, Ehretia arenarum, and the usual sandy plants occur on the banks. Pistia, Salvinia and Azolla are common.

The Irrawaddi opposite the entrance of the Mogoung river, is 600 yards across. It is a n.o.ble stream; has risen a good deal, and presents one unbroken sheet of water. The banks are by no means high, and are gra.s.sed to the brink. The water is cold and clouded; its temperature is 66.5 degrees, that of air in a boat 88.5. We reached Tsenbo about 1 o'clock, having pa.s.sed five or six villages, mostly small, and inhabited by Shans.

Tsenbo numbers about 30 houses, but these as throughout Burma, as far as we have seen, are small; it is situated on a low hill on the left bank.

Both banks are hilly, especially the right. The river has risen enormously during a halt here--many feet. In one hour we found it to rise about 16 inches. At this place I gathered a fine blue Vanda, and a curious tree habitu Thespiae: stigmatibus 4. Between this and the entrance to the narrow defile Kioukdweng, which is about 1.5 miles distant, three villages occur. This entrance is well marked, the river becoming suddenly contracted from 300 to less than 100 yards. We halted about 6.5 P.M. at Lemar. Noticed four or five villages between Lemar and the village at the entrance of the defile. All these villages are inhabited by Poans, a distinct hill tribe. Pa.s.sed through two fearful places, one in particular where the whole body of water rushes through a _gate_, formed by huge rocks not 50 yards wide.

_April 24th_.--Continued our course, and arrived at Bamoo about 5.5 P.M.; the greater part of the journey extended through the Kioukdweng, or defile, in which some terrific places occur, one in particular known by two rocks which are called the Elephant and Cow. Pa.s.sed several small villages before we made our exit from the K. dweng: all inhabited by Poans. Between this and Bamoo the country along the river is truly magnificent, and is well inhabited. The largest village contains about 70 houses; at least seven or eight occur, between the points above noted.

The Kioukdweng is a remarkable and an awful object. The greatest breadth of the river while confined within this defile does not exceed 250 yards, and in all the bad places it is contracted to within 100, occasionally 50. From the enormous rise of the river, which, last night alone amounted to an increase of ten feet, the pa.s.sage is one continued scene of anxiety. In the places above referred to the river rushes by with great velocity, while the return waters caused on either side by the surrounding rocks, occasion violent eddies and whirlpools, so as to render the boat unmanageable, and if upset the best swimmer could not live in these places. The rocks are serpentine and grey limestone, presenting angular ma.s.ses which project into the stream; the former in all places within high-water mark is of a dark-brown colour. Micaceous slate? likewise occurs, although rarely. The depth is of course enormous, in the low state of the river, when Bayfield pa.s.sed up, in many places no bottom was found, at 25 or even 40 fathoms, and at this season the water had no doubt risen 40 feet higher. Some idea of the rise that has taken place may be formed from the fact, that in places where, when Bayfield pa.s.sed up, the stream did not exceed 70 yards in width, it was now 200; and of course a rise of 20 feet in the open river, would determine one of at least 40 within the K. dweng. After pa.s.sing the Elephant and Cow, which have the usual resemblance implied by their fanciful names, the river widens and becomes tranquil. The whole of this Kioukdweng is truly remarkable, and in many places very picturesque.

The vegetation is, I imagine, similar to that of the low hills about Mogoung; but so dangerous was the pa.s.sage, that I had but few opportunities of going ash.o.r.e. The hills are thinly wooded, and all bear many impressions of former clearings; but the spots now under cultivation are certainly few. Besides, we must bear in mind, that the spots cultivated generally throughout thinly populated parts of India are deserted after the first crop, so that a very limited population may clear a great extent of ground. Bayfield tells me, and I consider his authority as excellent, that the population is almost entirely limited to the villages seen during the pa.s.sage. These do not exceed twelve, and they are all small. None of the hills exceed 500 feet in height (apparently,) they do not present any very peculiar features.

Below the maximum high-water mark the vegetation is all stunted, at least that of the rocks; a tufted Graminea is the most common. Adelia nereifolia (Roxb.), a Celastrinea, a curious Rubiacea, which I also have from Moulmain, two Myrtaceae, a Rungia, are the most common. I did not observe Podocarpus. In the occasionally sandy spots Campanula, the usual Compositae, Panica three. Eleusine, Clenopodium, and Atriplex are common, a Stemodia, and Asclepiadea likewise occur. One Clematis carpellis imberbibus, and the Lonicera are met with. No mosses appear to occur. One remarkable tree, _Belhoe_ of a.s.sam, 70 feet high, cortice albido, foliis...o...b..to, panculis (fructus) pendulis, occurs: it has the appearance of an Amentaceous tree.

_April 27th_.--We have remained at Bamoo; nothing appears to have been settled below, and the river is reported to be unsafe. It has fallen at least three feet since our arrival. Bayfield measured the left channel yesterday; it is nearly 750 yards wide.

Bamoo is situated on the left bank, along which its princ.i.p.al street runs. The town is a very narrow one, the breadth averaging about 200 yards; its extent is considerable, but it scarcely contains 600 houses, and of these 105 are Chinese, and only has one good street, _i.e_. as to length. Neither are the houses at all good or large, so that the population cannot be established at more than 3000. I allude only to those within the stockade; out of this, and close to Bamoo are two or three small villages. The stockade is of timber, _pangaed_, or fenced outside for about 30 yards; it has just been completely repaired, as an attack is expected from the Khukeens.

The Chinamen live all together, in a street of low houses built of unbaked bricks; these are not comparable to the houses at Moulmain. There is but little trade now going on. Within the stockade and without, low swampy ravines occur, that cannot be but injurious to the healthiness of the town. The Myoowoon spends all his money in paG.o.das, none of which are worth seeing: all the roads and bridges he leaves to take care of themselves.

The _inferior caked tea_, sugarcandy, silk dresses, straw hats, and caps are procurable, but at a high price. Pork is plentiful, and the bazaar is well supplied with fish. It is a much more busy place than Mogoung, as well as considerably larger. The chief export trade with the Chinese is cotton; the revenue however by no means equals that of the Mogoung district.

The country around is nearly flat; on one side of the stockade there is an extensive marsh well adapted for paddy. Otherwise the ground is dry, and tolerably well drained; it appears to have been formerly wooded; at present the environs are occupied by undershrubs. I have observed no peculiar botanical feature. Among the undershrubs are Phyllanthae 2, Apocynea arborescens, Gelonium, Combretum, Strychnos, Vitex, Melastoma.

When I say undershrubs, I mean that such is their present appearance. The only new plant is an elegant Capparis, subscandens, floribus albis, odoratis demum filamentisque purpureo-roseis. About old PaG.o.das, Pladera of Moulmain, a l.a.b.i.ata, Stemodia, and Andropogon occur.

The cultivated plants are those of the coast, Hyperanthera Moringa, Bixa Orellana, Calotropis gigantea, Artocarpus integrifolia, a Phyllanthus, Cordia Myxa, Carica Papaya, Citrus medica, Plantains, a large and coa.r.s.e Custard Apple, Mango, Zyziphus, Cocos, Taliera, Agati.

The climate is dry and sultry, the diurnal range of the Thermometer being from 28 to 32 degrees. At this season, viz. at 6.5 A.M. from 66 to 68; 4 P.M. from 94 to 96. North winds are common, daily commencing from that quarter, or terminating there. They are not accompanied by much rain, although the weather is unsettled.

_May 2nd_.--A Khukeen whom Bayfield sent for tea returned, bringing with him many specimens out of flower. The striking difference between this and the tea I have hitherto seen, consists in the smallness and finer texture of the leaves. For although a few of the specimens had leaves measuring six by three inches, yet the generality, and these were mature, measured from four to three, by two to three. As both entire and serrated leaves occur, the finer texture was more remarkable. The bitterness, as well as the peculiar flavour were most evident. Young leaves were abundant.

The Khukeens make no use of the tea. The Chinese here talk of this as the jungle tea, and affirm that it cannot be manufactured into a good article. They talk of the valuable sorts as being very numerous, and all as having small leaves. Neither here nor at Mogoung are there any real Chinamen, nor is there any body who understands the process of manufacturing tea. The caked tea is not made to adhere by the serum of sheep's blood, it adheres owing to being thus packed before it is dry.

The plain around Bamoo is intersected by ravines, which afford good paddy cultivation; no large trees occur within 1.5 miles of the town. At this distance a large Dipterocarpea is common. In the underwood around the town, a Dipterocarpus, arbuscula, foliis maximis, oblongo-cordatis, Gordonia, Lagerstraemia parviflora, Elodea, Nauclea; Leguminosae 3, Gelonia, Combretum, Jasminum occur. In the marshes Ammannia rotundifolia, Cyrilla, Azolla, Marsilea, and Salvinia, Serpicula, Ceratophyllum; a Campanula _arenosa_ reaches thus far.

Every day indecent sights occur in the river, owing to the women bathing without clothes, and either with or near the men. They appear to be indifferent to the concealment of their person, b.r.e.a.s.t.s, and hoc genus omne, being freely exposed. They swim very well, and in a curious way.

They make their escape by squatting down in the water, unfolding their cloth, and springing up behind it. As for the men, they appear to take a pride in exposing every part of their bodies. No gazers-on occur among these people, such not being the fas.h.i.+on.

The Shan Tarooks who trade with this place use oxen in addition to other beasts of burden; the breed appears good, resembling the smaller kind of India.