Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 23

The usual Calcutta birds continue, jackdaw-like crow, Falco pondicherainus, two common mainas, Ardea indica, and the white one.

Came on the Ganges about noon; on pa.s.sing Chobda had the horror of seeing the bodies of burning Hindoos, the friends who are present at these funeral rites turning them about with sticks, so as to give each side its share of fire. The women bathe in their ordinary dresses: these though ample are of fine cotton fabric, so that when wet more of the shape is disclosed than is deemed desirable in Europe, but exposure of person has no repugnant effect on Asiatics.

The Matabangah is a small, very tortuous, stream, not exceeding 70 yards in breadth: the banks are low, either wooded to the edge or covered with gra.s.s, such as Cynodon. Excellent pasturage prevails, as indicated by the number of cows.

_Monday 4th_.--Wind SE. There are not many villages in the vicinity of the river; pa.s.sed yesterday Kranighat, where there is a toll, from which officers on duty are exempt; but as no precautions seem to be taken to keep the river clear, no toll whatever should be taken: although the latter is high, the receipts must be very small. Pa.s.sed Arskally about noon, the banks are composed occasionally of pure sand, and the country becomes more open, with very little jungle, much indigo cultivation occurs. Thermometer 78 degrees 85'.

_Tuesday_, _5th_.--Wind SW. The country continues the same as before. At 2 P.M., we reached Krishnapoor.

_Wednesday_, _6th_.--8 A.M. We left the Matabangah river and entered a less tortuous nullah. The country continues the same. Much indigo cultivation still occurs. We saw yesterday evening a large herd of cows swim across the Matabangah; they were led by a bull, who kept turning round every now and then to see whether his convoy was near him. Today I saw a rustic returning from his labours, with his plough thrown easily across his shoulders; to a strong Englishman the feat of walking home with such a plough, cattle, and all would not be very difficult. Indigo is cut about a foot from the ground, then tied in bundles. Water for steeping it in is raised from the rivers by something like chair-buckets, only the buckets are represented by flat pieces of wood, the whole is turned on an axle by the tread of men; the water is carried upon an inclined narrow plane; the machine answers its purpose very well, and the natives work it with great dexterity. At 5 P.M., we came on a stream 100 yards wide, down which we proceeded.

_Thursday_, _7th_.--The country continues much the same. Of birds the black and white peewit is not uncommon;--cormorants, etc. also occur.

P.M. Thermometer 90 degrees.

_Friday_, _8th_.--The country is more low and more sub-divided by rivers than before. Abundance of indigo. Pumps also used, as before observed, for raising water. Pa.s.sed Moodoo Kully at 5 P.M., and left its river for a small nullah. Indigo abundant on all sides throughout the day's journey.

_Sat.u.r.day_, _9th_.--Continue in this nullah. Country wooded. Phaenix sylvestris very abundant: Areca Catechu also becoming abundant. A good deal of cultivation occurs, mottled chiefly with sugar-cane and vegetables. The habits of the black and white kingfisher, Alcedo rudis, are different from those of the other Indian species: it never perches, choosing rather the ground to rest upon: it builds in banks: takes its prey by striking it from a height of 20 feet or thereabouts, previously fluttering or hovering over it. The size and figure of this bird when resting on the ground, resembles the two common Indian Terns.

Palms, contrary to what might be supposed from the nature of these plants, can put forth additional buds;--this is exemplified in phaenix sylvestris, the stems of which are deeply and alternately notched by the natives for procuring toddy. When this is carried to a great extent, the tree either dies or a new apex is formed laterally. The old notches, as might be expected, at length, become much obliterated. It is from the study of such palms that much light will be thrown on the growth of monocotyledonous stems. The vegetation of jheels is now obviously commencing. Pistia stratioles, Nymphaea, Potamogeton, Potamochloa, Oplismenus stagninus, and Villarsia occur. Reached Furreedpore at 7 P.M.

_Sunday_, _10th_.--Came on the Paddo, an immense stream 1.5 miles wide, with a very strong current, about a mile to the East of Furreedpore.

Lagerstraemia Regina here occurs.

_Monday_, _11th_.--The country is become much lower since leaving Furreedpore, and is inundated during the height of the rains. The peculiar vegetation of jheels predominant; that of the jungle continues much the same. Plhugoor continues plentiful. No palmyras. Mangoes plentiful, but small. Pa.s.sed a deserted Roman Catholic Chapel, and Priest's house. White-winged long-nailed water-hens becoming plentiful.

_Tuesday_, _12th_.--The country abounds more in jheels: in many places nothing is visible but water, in which huge plains of floating gra.s.ses occur. The villages are very numerous, and occupy in fact almost every spot of ground not subject ordinarily to inundation. Damasonium Indic.u.m, Nymphaea p.u.b.escens occur in profusion. The gra.s.s which exists in such vast quant.i.ties is, I believe, Oplismenus stagninus. The water of these jheels is clear, black when deep, which it often is to a great extent.

_Wednesday_, _13th_.--Reached Dacca about 2 P.M.: it is a large and populous place. The numerous gra.s.s of the jheels is sown there: it is the red bearded _dhan_ or paddy gra.s.s: of this vast quant.i.ties are cut for fodder, for, the whole face of the country being overflowed, it follows that the cattle are throughout the rains kept in stalls.

_Thursday_, _14th_.--Left about noon, and proceeded down the Dacca river about 5 miles, then diverged into a narrow creek running nearly south.

Along this were observed fine specimens of tamarind trees. Stravadium in abundance. Sonninia scandens, and Mango, both in abundance. Pa.s.sed at 5 P.M. Neerangunge, a large native town, and below it Luckepoor. A vast expanse of water appeared near this, viz., the Megna. A good deal of native s.h.i.+pping occurs, consisting of brigs: great quant.i.ties of rice being exported from both places. Pelicans I observed here to roost in trees.

[View in the jheels: p154.jpg]

Friday, 15th.--In the midst of jheels: the whole face of the country is covered with water several feet deep. Vast quant.i.ties of Oplismenus stagninus still occur.

_Sat.u.r.day_, _16th_.--Still in jheels. The same features continue. The country is still very populous, all the more elevated spots having villages. Oplismenus stagninus still prevails in vast quant.i.ties.

_Sunday_, _17th_.--Jheels in every direction:--nothing indeed seen but water, with occasional gra.s.sy or reedy, and elevated spots occupied by villages:--here and there a round-headed tree springing apparently out of the water. Hills visible to the east. Cormorants, Ciconia nudiceps, paddy-birds, the common white ones with black feet, are abundant, and a.s.sociate in flocks: there is one very nearly allied to this, which is solitary, having black feet with yellow toes. The boats of this district are very simple, something like a Bengal _dingy_ reversed, but they are sharp in the bows and ought to be fast; their only mode of progression is to be pushed along by means of poles. There appears to be a great number of Mussulmans, who would here seem to form the majority of the population. Strong winds from the south interrupt our progress.

_Monday_, _18th_.--Delayed by bad weather.

_Tuesday_, _19th_.--Continued to pa.s.s through same kind of country, but less jheelly. The Cook boat was left behind on the 17th in a squall, and has not come up yet, so that I dine with the boatmen.

The black and white long-toed water-hen continues plentiful: when alarmed by kites, etc. it pursues them uttering a low mournful scream, until it has succeeded in getting its enemy off to some distance; it then returns, I suppose to its young; otherwise its cry is something like the mewing of a cat, or rather a low hollow moan. The hills are plainly visible to- day, lying towards the north.

The males of the white and black water-hen have tails something like those of a pheasant. There are two other species: one that is found on the Tena.s.serim coast; the other is much larger,--the size, of a large domestic fowl: one of the s.e.xes, has red wattles on its head. The white and black one is far the most common; it feeds apparently, in flocks: the Maulmain one is the least common. These with Ardea Indica, the white, black-toed, yellow-beaked Ardea, Ciconia nudiceps a small brown _chat_?, Pica vagabunda, are the birds of the jheels or rather the dry spots in them. I saw yesterday a flock of the black Ibis, flying _in a_ _triangle_ (>) _without a base_, the party was headed by one of the white paddy-birds! Villages have become very numerous, and the population abundant and flouris.h.i.+ng. The cattle are, as I have said, stalled and fed with paddy gra.s.s, quant.i.ties of boats being employed for its conveyance. Oplismenus stagninus appears less common about here.

_Thursday_, _21st_.--Still among jheels; our progress is necessarily very slow; we are indeed scarcely moving, there being no tracking ground: jheels occur in every direction, although the hills are not 15 miles distant. Pelicans with white and black marked wings occur, together with the slate-colored eagle with white tail, barred at tip with black; it is common in the low wooded places surrounded by jheels. Black-bellied Tern occurs, but not that of a.s.sam.

_Friday_, _22nd_.--Arundo and two species of Saccharum occur, among which S. spontaneum, is very common and of large size. We reached the Soorma river about 12 o'clock, 3 or 4 miles above Mr. Inglis's house.

I arrived at Chattuc on the 21st, which place I left for Pundoa the following day. There are no mountains of this name as would seem from the habitat of some plants given in Roxburgh's Flora Indica. The mountains therein called Pundoa are the Khasya or Cossiah range; Pundoa, is the name of a village called by the natives Puddoa. The jheels are for a great part under cultivation. The paddy cultivation is of two kinds; it is either sown in the jheels just at the commencement of the inundation, or it is sown on higher portions, and then transplanted into the jheels. Jarool, Lagerstraemia Regina is the chief timber, it comes from Kachar; it is a dear and not a durable wood.

Dalbergia bracteata, first appears, on low hills about Chattuc; there is also a Grimmia here on the river banks.

Porpoises are often seen in the Soorma; alligators or crocodiles, very rarely.

Jheels continue nearly to the foot of the mountains; these last are not wooded more than half way up; the remaining wood being confined to ravines, the ridges appearing as if covered with gra.s.s. Here and there, scarped amphitheatres are visible, down which many fine cascades may be seen to fall.

Arrived at Mr. Inglis's Bungalow at Pundoa about 3 P.M., and here regulated my thermometers; temperature of boiling water taken with the large thermometer 210.5 degrees, by means of the one in wooden case 210.5 degrees, temperature of the air 92.5 degrees, red case thermometer indicated the boiling point at 206 degrees!! nor would the mercury rise higher.

_Sat.u.r.day_, _23rd_.--Commenced the ascent, from Terya Ghat. Up to which point the country is perfectly flat low and wet, covered for a great part with gigantic Sacchara; among which partridges are common. Osbeckia nepalensis, Marlea begonifolia, Gouania, Bignonia Indica, a Panax, Byttneria, Hedysarum gyrans, Pueraia, Mimosa stipulacea, a very large Rottboellia, Bauheniae 2, Bombax, Tetranthera arborea, Grewia sepiaria may all be observed. On the Terya river among stones, and where it is a pure mountain stream Eugenia salicifolia, as in the Upper Kioukdweng, between Terya and the foot of the hills occurs; Alstonia, Ophioxylon, Trophis aspera, Urtica naucleiflora, Varecae sp. Impatiens in abundance, oranges in groves occur; at the foot Cryptophragmium venustum; rather higher, Argostemma, and Neckera are common; AEschynanthus fulgens, jack and sooparee commonly cultivated. Then Oxalis sensitiva, a small tender Lycopodium; pine-apples, Pogonatherum crinitum; Gordonia soon commences, probably at 400 feet. Polytrichum aloides appears on banks with Gordonia; Eurya commences above the first cascade. Choripetalum, Modecca, Sonerila about two-thirds up to Mahadeb, and Commelina, C.

bengalensis, and Anatherum muricatum continue to Mahadeb, as also Andropogon acicularis, the Impatiens, etc. No change takes place, in fact the vegetation being all tropical. Up to this place thick tree jungle continues; the ridges sometimes are covered with gra.s.s, either Saccharum, Anthistiria arundinacea or Manisuris; scarcely any oaks occur.

Euonymus occurs at Mahadeb. Beyond Mahadeb the scene becomes changed especially after surmounting the first ridge, the face of the hills is covered with gra.s.ses, interspersed with rocks; the clumps of wooded vegetation being small, irregular, and composed of barren looking stunted trees.

Above this ridge the country puts on the appearance of a table land. At Mahadeb, Staurogyne, Ruellia Neesiana, and Cryptophragmium are common, a little above these is a species of Zalacca; Impatiens bracteata is very common from near the foot to beyond Mahadeb; but it becomes small and disappears before Moosmai is reached. Cymbidium bambusifolium commences 600 feet above Mahadeb. Linum trigynum commences at Mahadeb; Scutellaria a little above, but I have found this at the foot.

Dianella is found 1,000 feet above Mahadeb, as also Camellia candata; Plantago, and Eriocaulon 2 sp. appear about 500 feet above Mahadeb; and continue to Churra. Randia, the common one, is found up to 4,000 feet.

Cinchona gratissima appears at Moosmai. The first Viburnum, also occurs here. Impatiens graminifolia a little lower. Salomonia, which appears half way to Mahadeb, continues to Moosmai and Churra, but is stunted.

Vaccinium, Ceratostemma, Crotalaria Hoveoides, Gnaphalia appear towards Moosmai. Wendlandia at Moosmai. Ruellia persicaefolia straggles a little lower than these. Smithia commences at Moosmai; Panda.n.u.s also; this is excessively common on hills to the left, towards the caves.

Dipsacus commences above Moosmai.

_Monday_, _25th_.--Churra is situated in a plain surrounded in every direction by low rounded hills, except to the E. and SE., on which side there is a deep ravine, the whole plateau rising considerably towards the north, in the direction of Churra itself. Ravines exist here and there; it is along these, and the water-courses, that the only woody vegetation is to be found. The rest of the surface is clothed with gra.s.ses, of which a number of species exist, they are chiefly Andropogoneae. Two or three Osbeckias exist; a Tradescantia (T. septem clavata) covers certain patches with its bright blue flowers. Three species of Impatiens, two with bright pink flowers are common. Spathoglottis, and Anthogonum occur on the flat rocks, which frequently prevail; Arundinaria is seen every where as well as a Smithia? with lotus-like blossoms. With regard to birds, the Motacilla or water-wagtails are seen at Churra and at Pundoa, are generally of yellow colour in place of white.

The woody vegetation consists of Berberis, Viburnum, Bucklandia, Cleyera floribus fragrantis, petalis sepalis oppositis, Myrsine and many others, too numerous indeed to mention.

The woods, towards Churra, a.s.sume that rounded and very determinate form, which is seen so commonly in some parts of England, Bucks for instance.

None of the trees arrive to any great size. The generality are low, rounded, and stunted. It is in these, that Quercus, Viburnum, and Panda.n.u.s may be seen growing side by side.

_October 4th_.--Took the height of the station, which I make to be 3,921 feet; temperature 74 degrees; water boiled at 205 degrees; in the small metal thermometer 198 degrees! centigrade 97 degrees; large metal 205.25 degrees; wooden scale 204 degrees.

_October 5th_.--Left for Surureem. On the first height on which the village is situated, a Potentilla is to be found, and this becomes more abundant as we continue to ascend. The next European form that appears, is Fragaria, the height of which may be estimated at 4,200 feet, this too becomes more common as we ascend; Caryota may be seen, or at least, a palm tree, in ravines as high as 4,000 feet; Daucus appears at 4,300 feet in gra.s.sy plains; Prunella at about the same, Gerardia at 4,500 feet; Gaultheria and an Impatiens with very small yellow flowers at 4,800 feet, as well as Othonna.

With the exception of these, the vegetation is much the same as that about Churra: but the Balsams of that place disappear almost towards Surureem, as well as the Tradescantia 7-clavata. Plants which are not in flower about Churra, are found towards Surureem in perfection.

After the first considerable ascent is surmounted, and which is probably 4,750 feet, the country becomes more barren, the gra.s.s more scanty and less luxuriant. Spathoglottis, and Anthogonium disappear; Xyris continues in abundance, likewise Eriocaulons, especially the middling- sized one; Bucklandia becomes more common and more developed; a frutescent Salix commences at 4,800 feet, as well as a Gramen Avenaceum vel Bromoideum.

Surureem is a small village, 100 feet above the rude bungalow, provided for the few travellers who pa.s.s this way; close to it is to be found Zanthoxylum and Hemiphragma, which last commences at Moosmai. The simple leaved Rubus of Churra, petalis minutis carneis, has ceased; a trifoliate one foliis cordato-rotundatis, existing instead. Most of the gra.s.ses continue, but all are comparatively of small stature. Two new Andropogonoids make their appearance: of Compositae, a Tussilaginoid and a stout Senecionidea, the former not uncommon about Churra, but out of flower. Salomonia ceased.

The height of Surureem I calculate at 4,978 feet; temperature 65 degrees Fahr.; of centigrade 19 degrees; water boiled at 95.5 degrees of centigrade; 203 degrees Fahr., wooden scale; 203.5 degrees large metal; small ditto 195.5 degrees! Temperature of the air at 6 P.M., 63 degrees.

_October 6th_.--Temperature 6 A.M., 63.5 degrees. Left for Moflong.

There is a considerable rise at first, then the country is tolerably level until one reaches the Kala Panee, the descent to this is about 7 or 800 feet, thence the rise is great, with a corresponding descent to the Boga Panee, which I estimate at 4,457 feet, and which is certainly 1,000 feet below the highest ground pa.s.sed on this side of the Kala Panee.

After crossing this torrent, by means of a miserably unsteady wooden bridge, the ascent is very steep for about 1,200 feet, thence there is a small descent to Moflong, which I find to be 5,485 feet. Most of the plants continue. Tradescantia and Commelina become much less common towards the Kala Panee, as well as the Impatiens of Churra, but their place is supplied by others. Along 100 yards of the Kala Panee, upwards of four species may be met with. Polygonum (Bistorta) becomes more common on the higher ground between Surureem and Kala Panee, thence diminis.h.i.+ng in size and frequency. Polygonum Rheoides becomes abundant towards a height of 5,200 feet, when Pyrus, an apple-like species, and Spiraeas make their appearance at 5,300 feet. On the Kala Panee, Bucklandia re-appears, but thence would seem to cease: on the brow of the ascent from this, Pedicularis appears in abundance among gra.s.ses, with it _Sphacele_? At the same height, which cannot be less than 5,400 feet, Carduus or Cnicus, appears. Solidago commences in the valley of the Kala Panee, but becomes more abundant at higher elevations. Sanguisorba appears at 5,400 feet, but in small quant.i.ties, and at this height Anisadenia recommences. Epilobium appears at 5,300 feet, continues at the same elevation to Moflong, where it is common. On the descent to the Boga Panee, an European form of Euphorbia appears at 5,000 feet with Viola Patrinia and a Galium asperum. Hieracium appears at about the same height. Cuscuta is very common from 5 to 5,500 feet, continuing even to Moflong; the scales of this genus are, it appears to me, mere appendages of the filaments, and not due to non-development or suppression of parts.

Erythrina, which is found about Churra, is seen on the road to Kala Panee, apparently quite wild; alt.i.tude 5,200 feet: it recommences at Moflong, where it is common about villages, but never exceeds the size of a small tree. Commelina bengalensis? continues throughout here and there, and may be found even about Moflong.

The most striking change occurs, however, in the Pines, which, although of small stature, exist in abundance on the north side of the Boga Panee; so far as may be judged of by the naked eye, they disappear on this side, about a mile to the westward, very few cross the torrent, and few indeed are found 100 feet above its bed on the south side. I took the height of the bed of this torrent. Temperature of the air 72 degrees; water boiled at 204 degrees; which gives the height about 4,400 feet. Between Surureem and the Boga Panee, many new plants occur; gra.s.ses continue, as also at Moflong, the prevailing feature. The princ.i.p.al new ones occur on the descent, consisting of two large Andropogons, one closely allied to A. schaeranthus and a tall Anthistiria habitu A. arundinacea; a beautiful Saccharum occurs here and there, especially before reaching the Kala Panee and the Gramina Bromoidea, which is the only really European form.