Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 33

At 6,500 feet Smilax ruscoides, Senecio scandens, Lilium giganteum. The Rhododendrons here are large, forming with oaks, open woods, mosses and lichens, very abundant. Here we came on snow, with it commenced Eurya ac.u.minata, Rhododendron formosa, majus, Rhododendron fruticosa on ruins, Pyrus malus, Dipsacus.

At 6,800 feet, Q. ilecifolia, Q. glauca, Dalibarda, Bambusa very common, Sphagnum abundant, Rhododendron formosa, majus, Quercus ilecifolia larger and more common at 7,000 feet, Gaultheria nummulariodes very abundant, Daltonia, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Gaultheria flexuosa, Thibaudia acida, Tetranthera nuda, Lycopodium of Surureem, Primula Stuartii, Hyperici sp., also _H_. _moflongensis_, are found up to 7,400 feet, with Hemiphragma, Elaeagnus spinosus, microphyllum, Juncus, Alnus of Beesa, Saccharum aristatum.

The village is a ruined one apparently, and never contained more than four or five houses, situated on an open spot, surrounded by woods. This spot is covered with sward, a fine Q. ilecifolia occurs about the centre of the village. Its alt.i.tude is 7,983 feet.

The vegetation is the same, Abies pendula, Oaks, Rhododendron formosa, majus, the other has disappeared, Bambusa microphylla, Thibaudia acida, Primula Stuartii, Juncus.

[Gradient Ta.s.sangsee to Sanah: g243.jpg]

_February 15th_.--We started very early; the coolies were all off by 6.5 A.M. Our march was first over undulating ground, either sward or through green lanes. We then commenced ascending a steep hill visible from Sanah, the face of which was covered with sward; at the top of this, snow lay rather thick, especially in the woods. The ascent continued, soon becoming very steep, snow laying heavily on the path, until we reached the summit of the second ridge; thence we descended a little, soon ascending again very steeply until we surmounted the highest ridge.

The descent from this was at first most steep, the path running in zig- zags, and being in many places very difficult. About 1,000 feet below, we came on sward, with wood on the right, along which we descended, diverging subsequently through a thick wood, until we reached sward again. Here the coolies who had come up had halted, refusing to go on, as it was already dusk. Learning that Pemberton and B. had gone on, I hurried on likewise, expecting that the coolies would follow, and continued along the swardy ridge, the path running occasionally between patches of wood, the descent being gradual; the path then struck off into wood, and the descent became rapid. I continued onward, until it was quite dark, and finding it impossible to proceed, and meeting with no signs of B. and P., I determined on returning. I reached the coolies about eight, covered with mud, the path in the wood being very difficult and excessively slippery. I had nothing but broken crusts to eat; I procured some sherry however, and my bedding being up, I was glad to take shelter for the night under the trees. Next morning on overtaking P. and B., I found that they had remained all night in the wood without any thing to eat, and without bedding, and that no habitation was near. We reached the village about 9.5 on the 16th, fatigued and dispirited.

Nothing was at hand, and we had no meal until 5 P.M. except some tea, and an egg or two.

Many of the coolies came up late on the 16th, and some have not yet arrived (17th.) The distance was fifteen miles, to the halting place about twelve. The amount of ascent about 4,500 feet, and descent 6,100 feet, the road being difficult and very slippery: snow was heavy throughout, and the elevations between 9 and 12,400 feet; icicles were frequent. The trees were all covered with frost, and the aspect was wintry in the extreme; luckily there was no wind, and no snow fell. The summit of the ridge was 12,477 feet high. No views were obtained throughout the 15th and 16th; the weather being cloudy and very disagreeable. No bad effects were experienced from the rarefaction of the air; we all suffered of course from colds owing to exposure at night, at an elevation of nearly 9,500 feet; the servants bore it tolerably well.

At Sanah, the alt.i.tude of which is 7,983 feet, (Pemb.) I observed Quercus ilecifolia, on it Neckerae, Anhymenium, Senecio scandens, Rhododendron arboreum, majus, Juncus effusus, Swertia, Pendulous lichens, Dipsacus, Artemisia major, Primula Stuartii, Berberis asiatica, Bambusa microphylla, Lycopodium of Surureem, Orthotrichum!

At 8,000 feet, Smilax ruscoideus, Senecio scandens, woods of oak and Rhododendrons, the ground and the trees covered with mosses. Gnaphalium, Daphne papyrif., Mespilus microphyllus! Gaultheria nummularioides, Spiraea gillenioides, and S. bella, Hyperic.u.m, Gnaphalium lanceolatum, trivenum, Sambucus! but withered, Tetranthera nuda of Bulphai, Abies Brunonis which is probably a Podocarpus.

At 8,300 feet, Tussilaginoides of Churra, Primula Stuartii common on swards with Swertiae, etc. as before, Funaria and Weissia Templetonia common, Sphaeropterus! Quercus ilecifolia, Abies pendula, Rhododendron arboreum, majus! Dalibarda, Rubus, Ilex dipyrena! Rhododendron undulatum!

At 8,400 feet, the road running along, and above a ravine, rocky ground to the right, Eurya ac.u.minata! Composita penduliflora. Thibaudia rotundifolia, and in a swampy sward a small dwarfed very narrow-leaved bamboo, Primula Stuartii, Gnaphalium densiflorum, Swertia monocotyledonea, Prunella in the woods, Salix lanata, and Panax rhododendrifolia.

Just above this, 8,500 feet, the first Abies cedroides appeared, soon becoming very common, and extending up to 9,500 feet, its habit is like that of a cedar, and it is a tall handsome tree, Rubia* cordifolia!

Geranium scandens, Baptisioides.

Crossing a nullah, we commenced a steep ascent, Thibaudacae rotundifolia, Abies cedroides, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Crawfurdia speciosa, Andropogon, Gaultheria nummulacifol. Ilex, Epibolium Vaccinium cyaneum! Here a sward commenced with vegetation as before, the summit of this ascent was 9,050 feet. Here Ilex, Daphne papyracae, Rhododendron, Scleria, Lomaria of Khegumpa! Primula pulcherrima! Spiraea bella, Gnaphalium trivenium, Rubus molucca.n.u.s, Thibaudia, Ericinea orbiculens, Spiraea decomposita, Gaultheria, nummulariod., Scutellaria prunella, Gaultheria flexuosa, Scandent composita, Cerastium bacciferum. The trees covered with mosses, Neckerae, Dicranum, Daltoniae, Abies pendula ceased, its limits visible below. Hence the ascent was gradual at first: snow became heavy at 9,100 feet. Hemiphragma, Rhododendron abundant.

At 9,500 feet, much the same vegetation, Abies densa commenced, cedroides ceased. Woods entirely of A. densa, with a small baccate-like deciduous leaved tree. Hydrangea! Spiraeacea! Urticeae?! Pedicularis elatior.

At 10,000 feet, some trees all covered with frost; snow very heavy, quite crisp, Juncus niveus, Cerastium inflatum! bamboos, other plants of 9,500 feet, continue. Old Cretins!

At 11,270 feet, thermometer 39 degrees, the same trees, scarcely any thing but Abies, Arenoid, Dicranum macrocarpus, Orthotrichum, Lichen pendulum atratum.

Thence we descended a little, soon to re-ascend.

At the same elevation Parna.s.sia, Epilobium monus, Gnaphalium densiflor., Vaccinium pumilum, Gentiana, Polygonum(?)

At 11,000 feet, icicles were common, and snow, very heavy. Woods of some Abies, a species of rose very abundant, a shrub of four feet high; other plants continue as before.

From this to the summit the ascent was very steep; Abies continues.

Rhododendron(?) very common, with rose, Parna.s.sia, Saxifraga, Composita arenoid, Gentiana, Polygonum(?), Pedicularis dwarfed, Triticoides, Aroides. Many pines dead as if blasted. Summit nearly bare of trees, which appear confined to slopes, Rhododendron very common, Umbellifera cra.s.sa, figured in Royle, Lilium unifloria.

At 12,000 feet, after descent, commenced Hymenophyllum, Xyris on rocks, Pyrus at 11,500 feet, Rhododendron elliptic.u.m common, summit strewed with rocks, Rhododendron pumilum.

At 10,000 feet, the Spilus microphyllus, Polygonum, as well as on ascent Gaultheria nummularioid., swards abounding with Gramen nardoides(?), Dipsacus minor, Epilobium parna.s.sia, Swertia, Umbelliferae, Primula scapigerc. floribus in glob.u.m densum, pedalis, Habenariae herminioid.

At the halting place 9,700 feet, Berberis ilecifolia, Daphne papyracae, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Baptisia, Dipsacus, major, Swertim pedicularis, Andropogones, Ilex dipyrena, Rumex of Khegumpa, Betula, Euonymus cornets, Abies cedroides, and Brunonis, Geranium scandens, Pyrus, Hyperic.u.m moflongensis, Hemiphragma, Mespilus microphyllus, Panax rhododendrifol., Rhododendron obovatum.

At 9,500 feet, Rhododendron arborea, majus, Abies cupressoides, Gaultheria nummularioides flexuosa, Thibaudiacea rotundifolia, Primula Stuartii, stunted juncus.

At 9,000 feet, Q. ilecifolia, Rhododendron undulatum, Primula pulcherrima, Tetranthera nuda, Chimaphiliae! Andropogons, Rhododendron arbor, majus, common, which varies much in size of leaves, Dalibarda, Smilax ruscoideus.

At 8,500 feet, Berberis pinnata, asiatica, Buddlaea purpurea; Eurya ac.u.minata.

At 8,000 feet, Gnaphalium trivenium, Baptisia, Spiraea, (Gillenioid) bella, Artemisia major. 7,500 feet, Rhododend. minus arborea, Leucas ciliata, and woods of Q. robur, as usual deciduous.

[Gradient Sanah to Linge: g248.jpg]

All the plants above 10,500 feet, had perished, not a single one being found in flower. The descent was so hurried, that it was impossible to note down more plants; and the same applies to the descent to this from the halting place. Starvation being to be added to discomfort.

Of Rhododendrons, the species observed, may be characterized as follows:--

_Floribus in racemis umbelliformibus_.

1. R. _arboreum_, arboreum, foliis oblongo obovatis, subtus argenteis.

2. R. _ferrugineum_, arboreum, foliis obovatis, supra rugosis, subtus ferrugineis.--No. 654.

3. R. ----- fruticosum, foliis oblongis, subtus ferruginea lepidotis.--No. 652.

4. R. _elliptic.u.m_, fruticosum, foliis ellipticis.--No. 653.

5. R. ----- fruticosum, foliis ellipticis basi cordatis subtus glaucus reticulatis.--No. 659.

6. R. ----- fruticosum, foliis lanceolato oblongis, sub-obovatis, subtus punctatis.--No. 655.

7. R. _undulatum_, fruticosum, foliis elongati lanceolatis, undulatis subtus reticulatis.--No. 656.

_Floribus solitariis_.

8. R. _microphyllum_, fruticosum, lotum ferrugineo lepidotum, foliis lanceolatis parvis.

_February 17th_.--Snow has fallen during the night all around, but not within 1,000 feet of us: this will make the snow line here about 7,300 feet, the village being 6,335 _supra marem_. Mildness of climate would appear to be indicated by the abundance of rice cultivation round this place, chiefly, however, about 1,000 feet below. In every direction ranges of 9 to 12,000 feet are visible: villages are very common, especially so in a hollow on the western side of the ravine of the Kooree, in which I counted sixteen or eighteen; one containing between thirty and forty houses. The s.p.a.ce alluded to is one sheet of cultivation, chiefly rice and wheat. Linge itself is an ordinarily sized village, containing about twelve houses. The wooded tracts cease for the most part, about 1,000 feet above this. The face of the country, where uncultivated, being clothed with harsh Andropogoneous gra.s.ses, Salix pendula, Thuja pendula, Pyrus malus, Erythrina, Quercus, Juncus effusus, Porana of Churra, Plantago, Barleria, Polygonium rheoides, Stellaria media, Rubus deltifoliis, Cnicus, Rhodod. arboreum minus, but rare, Smithea occurs also.

_February 18th_.--Our march commenced by a steep descent on the south face of the hill, the coolies proceeding by a more direct one to the north, but which was said to be difficult. We continued descending in a westerly direction, until we came in sight of the Kooree river which flows along the ravine, and which is a large stream, one-third less than the Mona.s.s. We then turned to the north following the river, the path running up, about 800 feet above it. We then came to another ravine, and descended to the torrent, which we crossed by a rude wooden bridge: then followed again the Kooree, to the bed of which we descended, and along which we continued for some time. We then ascended where the banks were of such a nature as not to allow a path, descending again here and there.

Then we came on the Khoomun, a large torrent, which we crossed by a wooden bridge about 100 yards above its bed; re-descended to the Kooree, reached its bridge; and thence descending rather steeply, and for about one and a half mile to Ling-Ling, or Lengloon, which is plainly visible from the bridge over the Kooree.

After turning to the north along the Kooree, and indeed after pa.s.sing the cultivation below Linge, which chiefly occupies a sort of plateau, we pa.s.sed through a most miserable country, the hills being rocky, nearly dest.i.tute of trees, and chiefly clothed with the usual coa.r.s.e Andropogoneous gra.s.ses, especially lemon-gra.s.s, occurred between Linge and Lengloon.

At 5,000 feet, observed Desmodium, Santalacea australasia, Gaultheria arborea, Indigofera, as before, Clematis cana, Acanthacea caerulescens, Pteris aquilina, Viburnum caerulescens, Oxyspora, Panic.u.m eleusinoides, Anthistiria, Conyza, Ficus cordifoliis of Bhamree, l.a.b.i.ata Suddiensis, Corearia, Rhus pendula, Airoides major, Flemingia secunda and major.

At 4,800 feet, Desmodium vestilum, stunted, Q. robur, Dipsacus, Epilobium, Elaeagnus microphyllus, spinosus.

At 4,600 feet, Sedum, Campanula, Osbeckia capitata, Citrus in villages, Emblica, Artemisia minor.

At 4,000 feet, Paederia cyanea, lemon-gra.s.s, Panax, Terebinthaceus, Pinus longifolia, here and there, Ficus obliqua, Grislea, Cirsium.