My Trip Around the World Part 4

while others, more daring and perhaps more dainty of touch, were more than once thrown over the donkey's head, suffering from bruises that took more than a day to heal. Immediately on reaching the steamer, at 4:30 p. m., tea was served on deck. I was more than weary and so sore I could scarcely taste of my dinner, but, thanks to a kind Providence, I was by morning on deck, but that day we made no excursions. The following day we landed at Beni-Ha.s.san, visiting the Rock Tombs, consisting of chambers, shaft and corridors, where the mummies were once placed, but now all are swept and garnished. All that remains to tell the tale, are the writings and sculpturing on the walls. The scribe has taken precaution that he who runs may read. The series of bas-reliefs is a biography in stone with ill.u.s.trations. The entire life of a man is written there. I must quote from a writer a few lines that have impressed me: "It is said that man's head becomes smaller every day, his muscle and chest enlarged; animal strength develops at the expense of the brain, which diminishes in proportion. The law of the strongest is the law of human species, one-half of which is seeking to destroy the other." These scenes depicted on the crumbling ruins, enriched by color, are strikingly realistic, built partly during the life time, and often after the death of the person. These give the best possible insight into the life of the Egyptians of that period. From past ages to the present hour are men building their own monuments, immortalizing, if possible, their virtues. How well the foundation should be laid, that the principles, overlapping each other, may make a fitting example for future generations.

There are no new cities built of any magnitude; the new would only depopulate the old. From Memphis, reduced to a state of quarry, is built Alexandria; from Heliopolis we have Cairo. In pa.s.sing the limestone cliffs we experience cold and wind; the mummied crocodile pits we pa.s.s, and stop at Aizril. Peddlers besiege the vessel, and the vociferating yell was kept up until long after 10:00 p. m., the hour when all lights in the cabin are shut off. At Aizul, we buy Nubian veils, which are made by embroideries in gold stars on black and white heavy netting, and are most becoming when worn by Nubian women. Soudanese embroidery is thrust upon us, but to all we turn a deaf ear and again mount donkeys to visit the bazaars. It was market day; the roads dusty; long lines of camels with their undulating necks and inhuman cry, impeded our way and shocked our nerves. What vagueness in the stare of a camel; what great, sad eyes; walking slowly with their heavy burdens, urged on by the voice and gesture of sober-looking Bedouins, perched upon the beast. Women with ravaged features and with soiled garments pa.s.s us, with babies seated astride of their shoulders; little girls clutching their gowns, with leather or silver amulets on their neck or suspended between their eyes; the flowing chemise, of crude colors, mostly blue, their heads bound in a turban of muslin, their black tresses flying in the wind. The arms of these children of the desert are encircled in bracelets, some of which we purchased with a few annas. They are gilded and tarnished, perhaps from lack of usage. A sad smile seems to lurk on their faces, casting a gleam in their dark eyes, and they will follow for a great distance your donkey, offering you their poor, little, ragged dolls for a backsheesh; the very touch of them would be pollution. You cannot resist, if an anna is within reach, of throwing it to them and receiving in return a glimpse of their pearly teeth between their red lips in their attempts at a smile. The Arab men, wrapped in their burnoose, look on mechanically, turning their rosewood beads in their hands. Their yellow dogs, with pointed muzzles, prowl around restlessly, as if they would cry out with joy if a bone was thrown them. On pa.s.sing through the bazaars I spied a Nubian veil, and to inspect it within a doorway, I was obliged to dismount; not being satisfied with work or quality, I attempted to remount, with the a.s.sistance of my diminutive donkey boy, but alas, we were not equal to the feat; when, from a distance, came a red coat, an English soldier, who threw me on the saddle and demanded a backsheesh. Is begging contagious, or is their need so great? Over the tranquil scenes creep the cold shadows of night, with their unhealthy, impenetrable gloom; lights of the steamer are extinguished; the water shadoufs, with lean bullocks for their motive power, with hanging fetlocks, conducted by a little fellahin, gave a sharp, hollow, grinding sound as the brake wheels were made to revolve. These brake wheels set others in motion, which in their turn start still others at the extremity of the spokes on the water circles, where jars of baked clay were fastened with cords made of palm fiber. The latter, in their constant rotation, scooped up water, pouring it into basins, from which ran gutters, dug at right angles in the earth, and spread like silver threads through this thirsty land. These shadoufs are placed at intervals along the Nile and from its beneficent waters the desert is made to bloom as the rose.

The early mornings are bright, but cold. As we proceed up the Nile the noonday sun feels uncomfortable, but invariably the nights are cold.

Then it is that the awnings are closely drawn around the upper deck, where a piano, tables and chairs are placed for the pleasure and convenience of the guests, while flags of different nations brighten and enliven the scene, festooned on the canvas that wraps us in from the prevailing miasma. An evening on the Nile steamer may not be irksome, although our steamer ties up at nightfall. The lack of motion is made up by music and dancing and pleasant intercourse. A few moments after dinner I would retire to the saloon or library room, where pens and paper were provided for the guests. There I would jot down in my journal my transactions of the day and write home if we were within postal quarters. We never made excursions on the Sabbath day; our trips were so arranged by Cook, who had our boat under his rules, that all who cared for rest might enjoy it. We disembarked at Dendarah, where we spent two hours in the early morning. As we recall these days on the Nile, with Richard in his Oriental robes of lovely colors, fully conscious of his good looks, taking his position between the extended tables of the dining room at the close of the meal and there make known the plan for the next day's excursion. "Ladies and Gentlemen!" was generally followed by an audible smile, the guests knowing full well what was to follow--breakfast at the early hour of seven, a ride from five to fifteen miles either by donkey or chair, with a set speech when we arrived at tombs or temples; but we had come to see, why not muster up courage for still another prolonged agony? I found books in the library, most entertaining when off duty, by Mrs. Edwards and Charles Dudley Warner, together with the book furnished by Cook to each purchaser of a pa.s.sage ticket. This attempt to post up on what I saw, and what was yet in store for me, precluded much sociability, of which I am fully aware with such pleasant people as we had on board, was my loss. I denied myself much, but I was unable to cope with both to any great extent, but I shall long recall with pleasure the few hours I gave myself in this delightful recreation.

Our arrival at Luxor by sunset was well timed. The beautiful rays of the departing G.o.d seemed to throw over all the surroundings a halo. We knew an early breakfast meant early to bed, which command I was not slow in obeying. At 9:00 a. m. we took donkeys for Karnak, pa.s.sing through the village on a market day, where each man squatted before his salable articles spread upon the ground under the shade of some umbrageous tree.

Through a long road, lined at intervals, were the remains of the Sphinx, of which we have so often read. The ruins are most imposing, excavations were still being made. The Nile's inundations are fast making inroads, undermining the foundations, especially at Luxor, which temple is located so near the bank. We linger and gaze on the stupendous work, even in its crumbling, tottering condition it is one of the wonders of the age. We find the Scarabaeus are bought here to an advantage. The Arabs, however, have no scruples in selling false beetles for the genuine ones that are sometimes taken from the tombs in excavating. They are becoming more and more rare. Mummies, so diminutive, made of metal or plaster, Stela, a small column, having neither base or capital, which are sold as the genuine antique, is manufactured almost within sight.

One of the amusing scenes on s.h.i.+pboard is to see purchasers comparing these articles; their ignorance of their value is laughable. The beetle, or Scarabaeus, is a symbol with this ancient people of "eternal duration." We are told it lays its eggs near the sh.o.r.es of the Nile, afterwards to roll them through the dust and sand to a safe place of deposit, thus providing for a perpetuation of their species. I am not an admirer of the beetle, consequently bought no reminders of the bug. I did buy here a string of red cornelian beads, not for their value but as good specimens. The trip to the tombs of the kings, most laborious of all, I declined to take. I did not feel I was able, but by remaining alone on board of the steamer was like choosing between two evils. The days when the vessel is deserted the crew go through a systematic house cleaning process. Truly, there is not a dry place for the sole of your foot. My only safety was in bed, but even there intrusions were frequent. Like all Oriental workmen, they sway the body and keep time to the scrub brush and broom with their voices, in a monotonous wail of Allah! Allah! After some six to eight hours it grows a trifle irksome, as it is incessant, so that I quite resolved before the day was over that tombs were pleasant places to visit and donkeys delightful animals upon which to ride. When a half-hour's ride was suggested, the next day, to the temple of "Rameses the Great" and tomb known as "35," I did not remain on deck, but on the contrary wandered through the Judgment Hall of Osiris, and through the temple of Medinah Kaboo; also inspected a small temple of "Thotmas III," pa.s.sing the "Colons" on our way to the small boats, to which we were carried through the water in the arms of natives. We lay at Luxor three days, leaving at 11:00 a. m. the fourth morning after our arrival. We stopped at Esneh, where another temple was on exhibition, and proceeded to Edfoo, where we tied up for the night.

There we saw really a wonderful temple, fresh from the hands of the excavators. On the 12th of January we arrived at a.s.souan, at 4:00 p. m., and small boats were brought alongside the steamer for those who wished to visit the "Elephantine caves." Not to see it would have been just the thing you should not have missed. And again we buckled on the armor and struck out direct from the shoulder. The sail around the island was an agreeable pastime, but the Arabs clamoring for backsheesh and for the sale of their beads, were beyond human endurance. I felt almost murderous. I bought a few strings of beads, and for days, whenever I touched them, each one seemed to cry aloud: backshees.h.!.+ backshees.h.!.+ We went from Annan to Philae by train; and what a train! No provision whatever for the comfort of the traveler. If by chance a seat was given you, you were in luck; if none was secured, "you beat the bush" all the way through the desert sands. The distance is not great. In a half or three-quarters of an hour we are on the spot which artists have sought and many have longed for and died without the sight. We lunch in among the ruins, and are then led into the interior of the temple as it now stands, falling and fallen. Crowds of little Arab children offer their services as guides, and I recall, with a sense of pathetic pleasure, Mr.

George Hale, with his crown of grey hair, being led by one of these little girls. "December and May"--old age and infancy. She was not over five years old, poorly clad, with her silver amulet on a leather string around her neck, and barefooted. In her hand she carried a Nile fly brush, with which she would gently attempt to brush off from Mr. Hale any invader, and in the same breath would whisk it with a vengeance in the face of any of her comrades who sought to take her charge from her.

It was an amusing scene. Many purchase from these children their amulet. I could but wonder if they were punished on returning to their homes for having parted with their talisman, which are religiously placed upon them in childhood. We now return to our boats. We are to skirt the first cataract of the Nile. We are divided into groups, and small boats are provided for each party. With fear and trembling we embark, but confiding in the Arab pilot, who seldom fails in the work a.s.signed him, we soon regain our equilibrium. To me it was not as perilous as the descent of Lachine Rapids, in the St. Lawrence River, nor more exciting. That everlasting wail of Allah! Allah! was kept up until we landed near our Rameses III, and until we had filled well the bag with piasters that was handed around. We were not able to disembark.

As I hastened alone to the gang plank of our river home, I saw Mrs. John A. Logan, whose boat had preceded ours, with her head of crowning glory, stretched from the low window of her cabin and in her hand was the "Red, white and blue" unfurled to the Nile zephyrs. I thought of Barbara Frietchie, and exclaimed: "Take in your flag!" That night there was a jollification on board, for the day following we were to begin our descent of the Nile. We took on board many pa.s.sengers who had gone up on the previous trip of the Rameses III, and gone beyond to the second and third cataract and had returned to a.s.suan for the downward trip. Among these were the widow of Major General Jed Baxter, of Was.h.i.+ngton, D. C., and also Mrs. Stroud, of Philadelphia. Mrs. Logan brought Mrs. Baxter to me, and introduced her. "Can this be my Mrs. Baxter?" I said, and she replied: "And this my Mrs. Hunt, of whom dear Senator Morrill has so often spoken?"

We were mutually bound together by one common friend, who had, by his praise, made us friends without ever having met before. We were no longer strangers. We stopped again at Luxor. There I had time, before the night shades gathered around us, to call at the hotel Luxor, where a gentleman with an attack of malarial fever had been transferred on our upward trip. His wife and daughter I had become much interested in. They were from the state of Maine, and we had mutual friends. They were glad to see me again, and were feeling most depressed in their isolation, but were buoyant with the hope that the husband and father would soon be able to be taken back to Cairo. They had been able to secure a trained nurse, and a good physician. I think Luxor is a military post. Many of the pa.s.sengers improved the s.h.i.+ning hours in revisiting the bazaars and by moonlight the gay, light-hearted and free among our young folks went again to see the ruins of Karnak. We bought many photographs here, which were most satisfactory. We next visited Keneh, where the jugs and gargoulets are made, for the Nile water. The factories are near by and many purchased these porous amphorae, hoping that in their own homes the water poured in them might come out as deliciously cool as did the water of the Nile.

We stop at Dirneh and Ballianah, but at Abydos we linger longer, where we take a seven-mile ride to the temple of Seti, finding on those sculptured walls much to admire. We lunched again in the ruins, and having no desire to eat, I fed through the iron-barred gate my share to the poor, wretched Arab children that swarmed around. I hate to recall these poor, down-trodden people. Is life worth living to them? What I declined to eat, they devoured with such voraciousness that it almost made me hungry. I am told Cook & Co. are regarded by these natives as a G.o.dsend. He surely does much towards bringing them in touch with humanity. And now a day's rest is to follow this tiresome one, and until we reach a.s.souit we can rest without any rude alarms, which will be at least for twenty-four hours. Confusion, worse confounded, was the scene at the landing at a.s.souit. The wharf was piled high with parcels of merchandise, the owner of each crying in a deafening voice, the surpa.s.sing features of their commodities, pus.h.i.+ng and pulling each other to establish their rights. We dare not pa.s.s through this motley crowd to mount our donkeys until our dragoman interfered, striking indiscriminately right and left with his stick, which too often fell upon their heads or backs. We did succeed in examining the rhinoceros canes, made of hides, which sold at $5.00 apiece, and of teak wood, which, we were told, were inclined to splinter. However, we took our chances. There were also embroidered portieres, and draperies, most elaborate Soudanese embroideries, specimens of which I gladly possessed myself. If the crowd is too threatening, you can barter from the steamer's deck. These Arabs are very dexterous; they bundle their goods, and with a grace we know not of, throw them up to the deck for inspection. Woe betide the unfortunate one who attempts to return the articles by the same process, if by mischance the precious bundle falls into the water. Sheiks rush in frenzy, and the noise from the crowd grows like the roar of a mighty cataract; and in one case of the kind, where the party was unlucky in his aim, he was compelled, for the peace of the pa.s.sengers, to pay for the lost articles. I heard among the crowd on deck some one exclaim: "This is great fun!" Perhaps it is, but I failed to appreciate it.

At 4:00 p. m., the 19th of January, we landed in Cairo, a tired but a wiser crowd, and we are not yet through the wilderness. O, for a Moses!

Why did he not survive the Deluge? Backsheesh from every one of that crew. Those who had brushed the dust or sand from your shoes or clothes as you flew by them at each landing place; those with shoo-fly or brushes, whom we had never encountered during the entire trip, were in line for a piaster, to say nothing of the big fees expected by the male attendants at table and in your cabin. But greatest of all were the expectations of the dragomen, who were most sullen if anything less than one or two pound note or gold piece was offered them. It is safe to say to go under "Thomas A. Cook & Co.'s auspices up the Nile," you cannot get off without paying at least three hundred dollars for a three-weeks'

excursion. Already, competing companies at reduced prices are manifesting themselves, and I heard with perfect satisfaction to their patrons, but the Sheiks, they say, are bought up by the "Cook's." How much of this is Nile gossip, I did not attempt to fathom. I had made the trip; never missed but one excursion, and still being in the body, gave thanks that it was finished.

We were again booked for Shephards. What a cosmopolitan crowd gathered in the exchange of that hostelry that evening. Many permanent guests for the season; many more in a transition condition; many waiting for the return of our vessel, as it was the best on the river, to go again on that bourne, from which most travelers return. The room allotted me was on the ground floor; I think in my weakness I would have accepted it, but Mrs. Stroud and Baxter, my patron saints, declared it unfit for me, and a cot was placed in a large upper room which had been a.s.signed these ladies, and I was forced by them to take the best bed. At the end of three days the crowd grew less and accommodations better, and a sunny, bright room was given me all to myself. Can such kindness as those friends conferred upon me ever be forgotten? Not by me, nor those of the name who come after me. One is not apt to forget an "oasis in the desert." Having decided to remain in Cairo for at least two weeks, in antic.i.p.ation of meeting a friend who had followed in my wake "around the world," I decided to have some repairs made in my wardrobe, such as old b.u.t.tons taken off, new ones in their place; new veils, new gloves, etc.

All this was done at a little shop near by, kept by an English woman named Cole. There Mrs. Baxter accompanied me, and I came out quite renewed, as far as my clothes were concerned. Having a spark of life yet remaining, and with my usual amount of energy, I was again persuaded to go to Jerusalem with a party, rather than to remain for the Bombay steamer that was, I supposed, to bring my friend with whom I had agreed to return home. When the proposition was made me by Mrs. Logan--I will confess, even to my grandsons, to a little irreverence--the very thought of more temples to see and more tombs to encounter, was a trifle too much for my endurance, and I simply said "No! Not if I expected to meet my Lord!" for to tell you the truth, I expected and felt He would come and meet me if rest was not soon obtained. But after a week's sojourn in Cairo I agreed to join the party and go over to Jerusalem and Damascus for a brief stay of ten days. Plans were made with T. Cook & Sons for dragomen and provisions, when all were frustrated by quarantine being declared. Our only escape from Egypt was to be made by Brindisi and Ma.r.s.eilles. All ports of the Turkish dominion were shut off from us on account of several cases of cholera which had broken out in Alexandria.

"To arms" was never before more readily responded to than by the inmates of that caravansary. Tickets were secured by those who had not yet bought. I had, in purchasing mine at Bombay, bought through to Ma.r.s.eilles; luggage was brought forward, big bags, little bags and my "Cheap Jack" was much in evidence. Lunch baskets were prepared by the hotel for the journey to Ismalia that resembled great wooden bird cages.

Among those friends we left behind were those destined for the Nile trip and a few habitues of Cairo, not easily frightened. With homesick eyes, those of our country followed us, and as a parting gift gave us lovely bouquets of flowers.

I must, before leaving Cairo, give an account of a large ball given in honor of those who had been up the Nile, and those who were awaiting a departure thence. It was given by the proprietors of Shepheards. The salon was cleared of its tables and the military band a.s.sisted the house musicians in furnis.h.i.+ng music. The crowd was large, but I speak truthfully and without exaggeration when I say that American women take the palm in dancing. There is a stiffness, a want of gracefulness, in those ladies of foreign nations. We were shocked by the innovation of the British army officers, with their red coats, and swords dangling at their side, which were permissible in this Oriental city, but when their spurs were worn, to the detriment of the gauzy draperies of ladies partic.i.p.ating in the dance, it was a breach we could not overlook.

FROM EGYPT TO FRANCE

And now we are in Ismalia, our sailing port. Two steamers are momentarily expected; one bound for Brindisi, the other for Ma.r.s.eilles.

The poor hotel accommodations were emphasized when this avalanche of people came down upon them. After baggage was identified and there was no room in the inn for many of us, I selected a sofa in the drawing room, on which to rest till the signal was given that the "Caledonia"

was in sight. It was not a bed of roses, but many around me had a worse accommodation; but upon it I became half unconscious from sheer exhaustion, when a tender hand was laid upon me, and a kind, persuasive voice whispered in my ear: "Come with me; there is room for you with us." Almost reluctantly I arose and followed Mrs. Logan, who had, through her well-known forethought, secured two apartments for herself and party, the latter having agreed to double up and give me the extra cot in Mrs. Logan's room. We expected surely the cry would come at midnight, and we slept with one eye open to sight our steamer's coming.

It was a cold, moonlight night. The desert's glistening sands were on one side of us, the sparkling waters of Lake Tesmah in the Suez Ca.n.a.l on the other. There was a bird with a lone, peculiar cry that added loneliness to the scene, and when the morning light dawned upon us we were still in Ismalia. A most inhospitable breakfast was served us, and at nine o'clock came the welcome cry: "s.h.i.+p ahoy!" The wharf from off which these steamers anch.o.r.ed was near to the hotel and a procession of yawning pedestrians was soon on its wending way, followed by innumerable dragomen, who were still in antic.i.p.ation of one more backsheesh, and a crowd of blear-eyed, frowsy Arab children brought up the rear. Breakfast was awaiting us on the good old s.h.i.+p "Caledonia," and a warm welcome from Capt. Andrews. My spirits rose, and my traveling friends, Mrs.

Wilbur and her daughter, soon were on deck, taking in the surroundings.

We landed at Port Said about 5:00 p. m. I invested my last piaster in an olive wood paper cutter. Port Said is said to be the most wicked place on earth. As I hailed from Chicago I thought perhaps honors were even.

We did not go ash.o.r.e, but got our steamer chairs in readiness for the next day, as we were told we would have a choppy sea, and we fully realized the truth of the prophecy. Our cabins proved the safe retreat, and there I remained until we reached Brindisi, at 6:00 a. m., February the 5th. At 5:30 we were called on deck by a visit from the health officers, as our vessel hailed from an infected district. All bore the inspection and we soon set sail again and landed in Ma.r.s.eilles the 7th of February. My baggage was soon O. K.'d, and a cab took me with my luggage to the hotel. Later in the day I took a drive through the city, and was much impressed with the growth since a former visit in 1881. Off the coast of Ma.r.s.eilles is built the famous prison Chateau d'If, immortalized by the author of Monte Cristo, a fine view of which is seen from the church of Notre Dame, built on a high rock on the outskirts of the city. The train for Paris leaves at 9:00 p. m., and after a fair night's rest, I am in the French custom house, where I have no trouble.

A cab is secured for me and I land safely in time for coffee and rolls at Madame Therries, where I am expected. A hasty toilet and refreshments taken, gave me fresh strength, and I soon found my way to Brown & s.h.i.+pley, bankers, where I found eight letters from home. I took up one, the latest date; found from its contents "all were well," and I retraced my steps to my own apartment, where I spent a most blessed day, reading and writing letters.

Paris, as it is to-day (1896) strikes a visitor as one of the most cleanly, most attractive cities in the world with its triumphal arches, which Napoleon had erected in commemoration of his victories, one of which, "The Arc de Triomphe," was begun in 1806, although the work was not completed till 1836, long after the founder and architect had pa.s.sed away. This arch is the largest in the world. The arch is ninety feet high and forty-five feet wide. It is considered too narrow for its height, and the insignificant ornaments along the top of the structure destroy all grandeur of outline. You will find "Hare's Walks" your best guide book for Paris and its surroundings. A year and a half's researches are herein condensed. I never fail to revisit Versailles, when the opportunity presents itself. Your early studies in history will enable you, in later life, after seeing this beautiful architectural pile, to long for a more extended history. The fountains are only in full play on the Sabbath day, and throngs of people of all walks in life, are seen in these grounds and crowd the corridors of historical paintings. La Madeline, one of the popular churches, resembles a Pagan temple. Begun by Louis XV (1777) as a church, and finished under Louis Philippe in 1832, it resembles the Parthenon of the Greeks. You will hear fine music at the Church of "La Trinita," but the Parthenon is full of interest. The first church on or near this site was built by Clovis, and dedicated to St. Genevieve; it was burnt by the Normans and after numerous changing of owners, it was finally, by the order of Louis XV, torn down and rebuilt, as a votive offering to St. Genevieve, who he believed to be his patron saint during his extreme illness. The first stone of the new church was laid by this king in 1764, and was completed by the architect, Rondelet, the pupil of the first architect Soufflot (deceased), in 1780. It is the burial place of ill.u.s.trious citizens.

Its possession was in a transition state for years; first a church of G.o.d, then a resting place for the immortal dead. At length, in 1885, it was taken from the wors.h.i.+p of G.o.d and given Victor Hugo, whose tomb to the right as you enter is usually the first to be shown. The tombs of Voltaire and Rousseau are empty, having been pillaged during the revolution. Pere La Chaise and Montmartre are cemeteries where familiar names are recorded on tombstones and mausoleums. In the former lie Abelard and Heloise, the tragedienne Rachel, and the open sarcophagus ready for the remains of Sarah Bernhardt, when she, too, shall lay off this mortal coil. There are in Pere La Chaise, and in Montmartre, many musical celebrities. While I was there, in April or May (1896), Ambrose Thomas' funeral cortege solemnly wended its way from La Trinita to this field of tombs. The funeral dress of the Frenchman is what we term full evening dress. The bier or catafalque is clothed in black broadcloth, embroidered in silver. The floral offerings are piled upon it; colossal wreaths of violets and immortelles, strung on wire, are emblematic in their designs. No music on that lonely march on foot but the quiet tread beats a requiem for the dead.

Fine views are obtained from the galleries of the Trocadero. In the same vicinity is the "Palais d'Industrie," which was used in 1852-55 for the great exposition, and will be utilized again in 1900 for another fair.

The shops of Paris are small; the windows seemingly contain most of the stock. We must except those great magazines, the "Louvre" and the "Bon Marche."

"The Musee de Luxembourg, by the order of Louis XVIII, contains only such works of living artists as were acquired by the state. The works of each artist are removed to the galleries of the Louvre ten years after his death; the pictures are constantly changing. The walks in the Garden of the Luxembourg are the best types of ancient palace pleasance. They are considered the pleasantest spots in Paris. The character of the Louvre has changed from a fortress or a state prison (1367) to a picture gallery. It was the great dungeon tower in the center of this palace, or castle, called the Louvre, that the great feudataires came to take or renew the feudal oaths; it was there the great ceremonies took place.

The Louvre was enlarged by Charles V, who added many towers and surrounded it with a moat, which was supplied from the Seine. He made a palace into a complete rectangular, always preserving the great central dungeon tower. Francis I destroyed this tower (1527). It took five months to do this, as it was as strong as the day it was built. It was regretted by the populace, because they lost the pleasure of seeing great lords imprisoned there. The existing palace was begun under Pierre Lescot in 1541. During Henry II's reign of twelve years, Lescot continued his work. After Henry II's death his widow, Catherine de Medici, came with her children to live in the new palace. Henry IV united the buildings that Catherine de Medici had built with those she had previously built, which, under the name of Tuilleries, were still outside the limits of the town. And from this time no one touched the Louvre till Richelieu demolished all that remained of the feudal buildings and used only in rebuilding the existing wings as the half of his facade of his new Louvre, and built two others on the same plan to make the building a perfect square.

"While the minority of Louis XIV lasted, Anne of Austria lived with her children in the Palais Cardinal, now Palais Royal, and even while the work was going on at the Louvre, apartments were given to the exiled Henrietta Maria of England, daughter of Henry IV, who met with most generous treatment from her sister-in-law. Little more was done toward improving the Louvre through the reigns of Louis XV and XVI, and then came the revolution (1848). Napoleon III determined, as he was in power, to unite the Tuilleries and Louvre into one great whole. This was carried out and accomplished in 1857."

During my visits to Paris (1881 and 1896) the repairs to the central facade of the Tuilleries had not been made. This unmeaning, desolate s.p.a.ce presents to the mind the ruthless hand of war in the conflict of man's ambition for supremacy. Before the revolution of 1876, historians tell us that between the beautiful chestnut avenues, across the brilliant flowers and quaint orange trees of the garden, beyond the sparkling glory of the fountains, rose the majestic facade of a palace, infinitely harmonious in color, indescribably picturesque and n.o.ble in form, and interesting beyond description from its a.s.sociations, the one spot to be visited by strangers, which attracted the sympathies of the world.

We see the Arc de Triomphe du Carousal, built in 1806, by Fontaine, for Napoleon I. The car and horses are a reproduction of the famous group on St. Marks at Venice, which Napoleon captured, but were afterwards restored by the allies. The street scenes of Paris are most entertaining, but to enjoy it in its perfection, go when you are young, before your muscles grow stiff and your eyes dim, for the "run for your life" requires agility and good vision.

HOMEWARD BOUND

We now bid "au revoir" to Paris, and cross the English channel, from Calais to Dover, without any great inconvenience. And mighty Neptune did not call on us for many returns of the day. We proceed from Charing Cross station to the hotel of the same name, where we remain until we obtain more pleasant surroundings in the west end of London. Daily excursions, always on top of omnibuses, when there were seats for us, run to the Picadilly, Pall Mall, down Regent and Oxford streets and into d.i.c.kens' haunts, when time afforded, out to St. John's Woods, and without fail to Kensington, to the Museum, which is most absorbing of time and interest. We take carriages and drive through Carleton terrace and through streets where the city homes of the royalty are located. To drive in Hyde Park or Rotten Row, with a crest on your carriage door, would be fine, but as we had left our crests at home we were denied many of those privileges. I recall here with pleasure an opportunity that was afforded my daughter and myself, in 1881, while on a visit to Kensington. While wandering in the vicinity of Albert Hall, we were attracted by crowds of people gathering roundabout its doors. On inquiry we learned a bazaar was in progress therein for the benefit of some London hospital. By paying the admittance fee of one pound each ($5.00) we could enter, where we could see royalty, each person of note in his or her booth with the name attached. "Maidens like moths are caught by glare," and we were soon in regal atmosphere. Here were ladies of high degree, dressed in Queen Anne's style, who had been brought thither by lackeys in sedan chairs of that ancient cla.s.s. Most marvelous was the display of jewels which met our bewildering gaze, and these high-born ladies, with their pretty feet and high insteps, delicately formed hands and tapering fingers, gave evidence of good blood. We were approached by these n.o.ble men and women, soliciting us to take chances in prizes that were to be raffled off, but we declined for two reasons. In the first place, we could not see how we could accommodate in our steamer trunks the huge Chinese umbrella, under whose shade at least fifty people or more could find shelter at a garden party, and the greater reason why we did not invest was that our entrance fee was quite enough for the good cause. However, we felt ourselves most favored at this extraordinary opportunity of witnessing the gentle manners, and hearing the musical intonation of voice that marks good birth.

On Sunday afternoon we went in search, in the east end of London, for the "Palace of Delight," and its surroundings. We took the tramway and inquired of a demure, missionary-looking lady, the way to the most degraded quarters. She replied: "You are in that region now," and having no male escort, we were not particularly over-confident of our position.

The streets were swarming with children; some fairly well clad, others ragged and soiled. Groups of men and women, many in Sunday attire, others whose habiliments were evidences of great want and poverty. But few were hilarious. On the contrary, serious countenances betrayed earnest conversation between and by these groups of people. We encountered no special exhibition of degradation; but upon the women's faces we detected the marks of toil and care, and in many of their offspring, idiotic, expressionless faces. Woman's work among women may bring in G.o.d's own good time a fulfillment of things hoped for. Again, I recall a scene I witnessed in 1881. We were inmates of Mr. Burr's hotel, as he termed it. Among his guests were people of some distinction. Mrs.

Mary Livermore, of Ma.s.sachusetts, was in this category. She had been sent over by her state or the city of Boston, to investigate the "Coffee Houses" of London, and Mr. Burr was known as a philanthropist in that city. Preparations were made to see London by gas light, and I was among the few invited to go with Mrs. Livermore. Two carriages were provided for the party, and each held besides four occupants, a seat either for Mr. Burr or his son, with the respective coachmen. We drove to the station and then took the steam cars to "Wandsworth," a short distance from London. On disembarking we walked to one of the public resorts known as a "Coffee House," where light refreshments, with tea, coffee and chocolate are offered at a trifling price; also a bottled drink labelled Ozone, which had no intoxicating influence. These inst.i.tutions were for the congregating of the laboring cla.s.ses, where they might spend an hour or so in discussing the news of the day, or in social intercourse, where no intoxicating beverages could be obtained, and which served to entertain and keep them off the streets or from dens of infamy. Here husband and wife, with clean hands and faces, and perhaps sweethearts for aught we knew, were apparently happy in this hour of recreation. Mrs. Livermore was asked to speak to that body of people, and her satellites drew close around her, not knowing how she would be received. Suffice to say that motherly face drew the attention of all, and the appeals she made to men and women present drew many a tear from the female portion, and to suppress an emotion, an apologetic cough issued from rough exteriors. We retraced our steps to London and there our carriages awaited us. We were driven to the "Seven Dials," and worse places, if possible, where we were subjected to jeers and penetrating glances into our carriage by the pa.s.sers-by. Across these streets were hung clothes lines and under the glare of electric or gas lights could be inspected the second-handed garments that were hung thereon.

Markets, whose stale and unhealthy condition revealed itself to our sensitive nostrils, and we were glad to turn away from this unkempt crowd to a theatre in close proximity, whose doors were thrown open early to those who could afford a penny or more to enter. On the stage was a young girl, dressed in clean apparel. A check ap.r.o.n gathered at her neck and fell nearly to the tops of her shoes. She was amusing the audience with a dance they called a "hoe down." She kept time to the music by the clatter of slip-shod shoes. Then some "Punch and Judy"

exhibition followed, and refreshments similar to those we saw at Wandsworth, were pa.s.sed around, from which the hungry could appease their hunger, and with the tea and coffee, their thirst was satisfied for a mere trifle.

Thus the hours wore away which might have otherwise been spent, and would have rendered these people unfit for the next day's work. By ten o'clock all was over, and a very orderly crowd dispersed, we will hope, to their homes. The theaters in London are well patronized. I saw among other plays the "Prisoner of Zenda," and realized fully that to wear the court train, and handle it, and yourself gracefully must be to wear it often. The boxes are well patronized by coroneted women. I saw no one who struck me as being to the manor born. The universal law of removing all head covering is most strictly observed. The average appearance of the English woman does not compare with dainty, well-gowned French woman, but neither English nor French rival the American woman, when she starts out to please. No one visits London for the first time without seeing the tower, with its grewsome walls and its regal splendor of the crown jewels. The national and royal academies claim many hours, and to visit the churches and cathedrals one makes haste.

We were in London on Easter Sunday. We heard in his own pulpit Dr.

Parker and, more than that, his wife, now deceased, stood on the left of the pulpit. Before the sermon by her husband, she appealed to the women of London, as well as the women of every nation, to spare the birds, and repeated several verses of her own composition in their behalf.

We fully intended to visit the cathedral towns of England, but sickness of one of our party, deprived us of that privilege, and after a lot of shopping, and more sight-seeing, we spent one day at Windsor, and saw the Eton College grounds. Not far away, but in sight, I believe, of Windsor Castle, is "Stoke Pogis," made memorable by "Gray's Elegy."

Her majesty, the queen, was not at home. We were shown one room in particular, which has been thrown open to the public since my visit there in 1881; that was, the one containing the "jubilee gifts of 1897," when hearts and hands must have been emptied in making these royal presents. The treasures of India were there, those of Afric's sunny sh.o.r.es, and from every nation and every tribe that acknowledged Victoria. Queen and empress, each and all, poured forth their trophies at her feet. Her stables were shown us, well stocked with thoroughbred steeds from far off Arabia and the Shetland Isles.

"Time and tide waits for no man," and we are booked for the "Augusta Victoria," that sails April ----, 1896. Some love to roam, but I like it better when I am nearer home. Our trip across the Atlantic is not what we hoped for, and a choppy sea with an occasional swell made us feel uncomfortable. I had the pleasure in Paris of making the acquaintance of a gentleman, wife and young lady daughter, who invited me to return to America in their company, and seldom, if ever, has it been my lot to have my lines cast among more delightful people than they and, although our homes are far apart, my heart often goes out to them.

When our own home port is sighted and the sensation the appearance of a custom-house officer always creates is over, and the welcome "O. K." is visible on our luggage, we feel like taking off our chapeau to "Liberty Enlightening the World."

It is midnight when we land on the Jersey sh.o.r.e, and the gallant captain, no less courteous on land than on sea, bids us return to our cabins and rest, when we have obeyed our country's mandate, the custom house officer.

A hasty breakfast and a few good-byes are spoken, and my heart swells within me, as I spring from the gang-plank to the sh.o.r.e, and the lines

"My native country, thee, Land of the n.o.ble free, Thy name I love; I love thy rocks and rills, Thy woods and templed hills, My heart with rapture thrills Like that above,"

seem to express all and more than all that I could say.

A short stay of a few hours in New York, and an uneventful trip on the New York Central Railroad brought me into Chicago, where those nearest and dearest to me were in waiting to bid me welcome home. And now in closing, my dear children, I will say: "That if the work I have done in leaving you these impressions and footprints, gives the pleasure hoped for, I will feel compensated, notwithstanding I have labored when the flesh was weak and my vision clouded. When you have reached my age (sixty-three), when youth and vigor are not in their fulness, this work of love may then be appreciated."

Your Grandmother,

ELEONORA HUNT.