The Rough Guide To Amsterdam Part 6

The outer districts The Nieuw Zuid The Nieuw Zuid The CoBrA Museum of Modern Art The CoBrA Museum of Modern Art CoBrA Museum of Modern Art (TuesSun 11am5pm; 9.50; 020/547 5050, (TuesSun 11am5pm; 9.50; 020/547 5050, www.cobra-museum.nl), located well to the south of the Amsterdamse Bos entrance, close to the Amstelveen bus station at Sandbergplein 1, can be reached from the centre by bus #170, #171 or #172. This soothing white gallery, its gla.s.s walls giving a view of the ca.n.a.l behind, displays the works of the artists of the CoBrA movement CoBrA movement, founded in 1948. The movement grew out of comparative artistic developments in the cities of Copenhagen, Brussels and Amsterdam hence the name. CoBrA's first exhibition, held at Amsterdam's Stedelijk Museum, showcased the big, colourful canvases, with bold lines and forms, for which the movement became famous. Their work displayed a spontaneity and inclusivity that was unusual for the art world of the time and it stirred a veritable hornet's nest of artistic controversy. You'll only find a scattering of their work here in the gallery, but there's enough to get an idea of what CoBrA were about, not least in Karel Appel's (19212006) weird, junky bird sculpture outside, and his brash, childlike paintings inside in many ways Appel was the movement's leading light. Upstairs, the museum hosts regular temporary exhibitions of works by contemporary artists. There's a good shop, too, with plenty of prints and books on the movement, plus a bright cafe where you can gaze upon Appel's sculpture at length.

The outer districts Amsterdam Oost Next door to Amsterdam's Oud Zuid (Old South), Amsterdam Oost Amsterdam Oost (East) is a rough-and-ready working-cla.s.s quarter that also stretches out beyond the Singelgracht. The area begins with Amsterdam's old eastern gate, the (East) is a rough-and-ready working-cla.s.s quarter that also stretches out beyond the Singelgracht. The area begins with Amsterdam's old eastern gate, the Muiderpoort Muiderpoort (p.r.o.nounced "mao-der-port"), overlooking the ca.n.a.l at the end of Plantage Middenlaan. In the 1770s the gate was revamped in pompous style, a Neocla.s.sical refit complete with a flashy cupola and grandiosely carved pediment. Napoleon staged a triumphal entry into the city through the Muiderpoort in 1811, but his arrival was tempered by the behaviour of his half-starved troops, who were so dazzled by a city of (what was to them) amazing luxury that they could barely be restrained from looting. The Oost district has one obvious attraction the (p.r.o.nounced "mao-der-port"), overlooking the ca.n.a.l at the end of Plantage Middenlaan. In the 1770s the gate was revamped in pompous style, a Neocla.s.sical refit complete with a flashy cupola and grandiosely carved pediment. Napoleon staged a triumphal entry into the city through the Muiderpoort in 1811, but his arrival was tempered by the behaviour of his half-starved troops, who were so dazzled by a city of (what was to them) amazing luxury that they could barely be restrained from looting. The Oost district has one obvious attraction the Tropenmuseum Tropenmuseum, near the Muiderpoort and located on the corner of another of the city's munic.i.p.al parks, the Oosterpark Oosterpark.

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The outer districts Amsterdam Oost Amsterdam Oost The Tropenmuseum Across the Singelgracht ca.n.a.l on Mauritskade rises the gabled and turreted Royal Tropeninst.i.tuut Royal Tropeninst.i.tuut formerly the Royal Colonial Inst.i.tute a sprawling complex containing the formerly the Royal Colonial Inst.i.tute a sprawling complex containing the Tropenmuseum Tropenmuseum (daily 10am5pm; 7.50, 6- to 17-year-olds 4; 020/568 8200, (daily 10am5pm; 7.50, 6- to 17-year-olds 4; 020/568 8200, www.tropenmuseum.nl; tram #9 from Centraal Station), whose entrance is around the side at Linnaeusstraat 2. With its cavernous central hall and three floors of gallery s.p.a.ce, this is Amsterdam's ethnographic museum, focusing on all the world's tropical and subtropical zones which it does incredibly well, with a spectacular collection of art, applied art and other exhibits, displayed in an engaging, modern, yet largely gimmick-free way. Among the many artefacts there are Javanese stone friezes, elaborate carved wooden boats from Papua and New Guinea, a gamelan orchestra, a whole room of ancestral and death masks, and some incredible ritual poles cut from giant New Guinea mangroves. The collection is explained in English and imaginatively presented through a variety of media slides, DVDs and audio clips and you can watch everything from Dutch colonials meeting the natives over a hundred years ago to nomads of the Central Asian steppes huddling inside a traditional tent. There are also fun, creative displays devoted to such subjects as music-making, puppetry and traditional storytelling. Perhaps best of all are the museum's studiously authentic reconstructions of contemporary life around the world a mock-up of a Nigerian bar and residential compound, a Middle Eastern teahouse, a south American cafe, a Filipino jeepney bus plus its candid expositions on the problems besetting the developing world, both urban and rural, such as the destruction of the tropical rainforests. The permanent collection is enhanced by an ambitious programme of temporary exhibitions, such as one dealing with Haitian voodoo. There's also a shop shop, with crafts and music from and books about the developing world, and downstairs, the Tropentheater Tropentheater specializes in Third World cinema, music and dance. specializes in Third World cinema, music and dance.

The outer districts Amsterdam Oost Amsterdam Oost The Oosterpark and beyond Behind the Royal Tropeninst.i.tuut, the manicured greenery of the Oosterpark Oosterpark is a pleasant introduction to the ma.s.sed housing that extends south and east. A working-cla.s.s district for the most part, particularly on the far side of Linnaeusstraat, the area also has a high immigrant presence, and the street names Javastraat, Balistraat, Borneostraat recall Holland's colonial past. This is one of the city's poorer neighbourhoods, with a sea of ageing terraced houses, though whole streets have been torn down to make way for new and better public housing. If you find yourself with some time to fill after the Tropenmuseum you might consider a stroll along is a pleasant introduction to the ma.s.sed housing that extends south and east. A working-cla.s.s district for the most part, particularly on the far side of Linnaeusstraat, the area also has a high immigrant presence, and the street names Javastraat, Balistraat, Borneostraat recall Holland's colonial past. This is one of the city's poorer neighbourhoods, with a sea of ageing terraced houses, though whole streets have been torn down to make way for new and better public housing. If you find yourself with some time to fill after the Tropenmuseum you might consider a stroll along Dapperstraat market Dapperstraat market (MonSat 9am5pm), one block east of Linnaeusstraat, the eastern equivalent to the (MonSat 9am5pm), one block east of Linnaeusstraat, the eastern equivalent to the Albert Cuypstraat market Albert Cuypstraat market, though slightly less atmospheric.

The outer districts Amsterdam Oost Amsterdam Oost Amsterdam ArenA Not strictly in Amsterdam Oost, but nonetheless on this side of town, the home ground of Ajax, the Amsterdam ArenA Amsterdam ArenA (museum & stadium tours: AprilSept 57 daily 11am4.30pm; OctMarch MonSat & last Sun of the month 4 daily 11am4.30pm; 10.50; 1hr 30min; 020/311 1336, (museum & stadium tours: AprilSept 57 daily 11am4.30pm; OctMarch MonSat & last Sun of the month 4 daily 11am4.30pm; 10.50; 1hr 30min; 020/311 1336, www.amsterdamarena.nl) is well worth the fifteen-minute metro trip, both to visit the Ajax Museum Ajax Museum and to take a tour of the stadium itself. Either take the metro to Strandvliet and walk around the stadium to the main entrance on the far side, or go a stop further on to Bijlmer station, from which the ArenA Boulevard, lined with new shops and cafes, leads to the main entrance. Much as you would expect, the museum is a historical homage to Holland's most successful football club, Ajax, charting its origins at the turn of the twentieth century lots of photos of men in big shorts in muddy fields through its various stadia and the evolution of the famous red-and-white strip. There are special shrines to two of the club's most ill.u.s.trious players Cruyff and van Basten as well as a rather sentimental short film depicting the rise to stardom of its leading players. The centrepiece, true to the club's obvious self-image as one of the big hitters of European football (there's relatively little on the domestic league), is a display devoted to Ajax's European campaigns, with tickets, programmes, s.h.i.+rts and footage of the key moments from each final, from their first victory in 1971 against Panathinaikos to their most recent. As for the stadium, hour-long walk-in tours are conducted throughout the day in Dutch and English between 11am and 4.30pm, which will impress even the most fair-weather fan, especially if you happen to time it right and get there during training (the Ajax training ground is adjacent to the stadium). Tours take in the main concourses, the press room where you can snap yourself in front of the sponsors' logos and the view from up in the security box; you're also allowed onto a strip of the hallowed turf. In fact, the pitch is perhaps the most remarkable thing about the Amsterdam ArenA: the stadium is built in such a way that the gra.s.s receives hardly any sunlight and no wind, which means it doesn't drain or grow very well and has to be relaid at least two or three times a year. See " and to take a tour of the stadium itself. Either take the metro to Strandvliet and walk around the stadium to the main entrance on the far side, or go a stop further on to Bijlmer station, from which the ArenA Boulevard, lined with new shops and cafes, leads to the main entrance. Much as you would expect, the museum is a historical homage to Holland's most successful football club, Ajax, charting its origins at the turn of the twentieth century lots of photos of men in big shorts in muddy fields through its various stadia and the evolution of the famous red-and-white strip. There are special shrines to two of the club's most ill.u.s.trious players Cruyff and van Basten as well as a rather sentimental short film depicting the rise to stardom of its leading players. The centrepiece, true to the club's obvious self-image as one of the big hitters of European football (there's relatively little on the domestic league), is a display devoted to Ajax's European campaigns, with tickets, programmes, s.h.i.+rts and footage of the key moments from each final, from their first victory in 1971 against Panathinaikos to their most recent. As for the stadium, hour-long walk-in tours are conducted throughout the day in Dutch and English between 11am and 4.30pm, which will impress even the most fair-weather fan, especially if you happen to time it right and get there during training (the Ajax training ground is adjacent to the stadium). Tours take in the main concourses, the press room where you can snap yourself in front of the sponsors' logos and the view from up in the security box; you're also allowed onto a strip of the hallowed turf. In fact, the pitch is perhaps the most remarkable thing about the Amsterdam ArenA: the stadium is built in such a way that the gra.s.s receives hardly any sunlight and no wind, which means it doesn't drain or grow very well and has to be relaid at least two or three times a year. See "Ajax Amsterdam" for information on seeing a game at the ArenA.

The outer districts Amsterdam Noord Amsterdam Noord (North), on the far side of the River IJ, has flourished since the construction of the IJ tunnel linked it with the city centre in the 1960s. A modern suburban sprawl, the district is short on obvious charm, but a more cultured aspect is evolving in the redevelopment of the (North), on the far side of the River IJ, has flourished since the construction of the IJ tunnel linked it with the city centre in the 1960s. A modern suburban sprawl, the district is short on obvious charm, but a more cultured aspect is evolving in the redevelopment of the NDSM s.h.i.+pyard NDSM s.h.i.+pyard. Reachable by ferry from behind Centraal Station, the former s.h.i.+pyard's cavernous structures now provide studio and exhibition s.p.a.ce for artists, and there are plans to develop the area into an arts and events centre. Further out into the countryside the area to head for is the Waterland Waterland, an expanse of peat meadows, lakes and marshland to the northeast of the built-up area. Until the turn of the twentieth century, this parcel of land was a marshy fen; it was made more tractable by the digging of drainage ca.n.a.ls, prompting wealthy Amsterdammers to build their summer residences here. These myriad waterways are home to a wide range of waterfowl waterfowl, as are the many lakes, the largest of which ab.u.t.ting the Markermeer, formerly part of the Zuider Zee is the Kinselmeer Kinselmeer. The best way to explore the Waterland is by bike bike, and the VVV (plus larger bookshops) sells a detailed map the Plattegrond van Amsterdam-Noord Plattegrond van Amsterdam-Noord (2.95) marked with the area's cycle paths. One good trip of about 40km begins at the (2.95) marked with the area's cycle paths. One good trip of about 40km begins at the IJpleinveer ferry dock IJpleinveer ferry dock on the north side of the IJ, from where you follow Meeuwenlaan to the large roundabout at the start of Nieuwendammerdijk. This long meeting Sch.e.l.lingwoudedijk and then Durger Dammerdijke, at the southern tip of the long d.y.k.e that stretches up the coast. You can return to the dock the same way or travel back a little inland. on the north side of the IJ, from where you follow Meeuwenlaan to the large roundabout at the start of Nieuwendammerdijk. This long meeting Sch.e.l.lingwoudedijk and then Durger Dammerdijke, at the southern tip of the long d.y.k.e that stretches up the coast. You can return to the dock the same way or travel back a little inland.

The outer districts Amsterdam Noord Amsterdam Noord Ferries across the IJ Ferries across the IJThere are five GVB public transport ferries ferries across the IJ and three of them depart from De Ruyterkade, behind Centraal Station. None of the three takes cars, but all carry foot pa.s.sengers, bicycles and motorbikes for free. Of the three, the across the IJ and three of them depart from De Ruyterkade, behind Centraal Station. None of the three takes cars, but all carry foot pa.s.sengers, bicycles and motorbikes for free. Of the three, the Buiksloterwegveer Buiksloterwegveer (MonSat 6.30am10.54pm, till 9pm from Buiksloterweg, Sun 11.06am6.54pm) shuttles back and forth every twelve minutes or so, running to the foot of Buiksloterweg. The smaller (MonSat 6.30am10.54pm, till 9pm from Buiksloterweg, Sun 11.06am6.54pm) shuttles back and forth every twelve minutes or so, running to the foot of Buiksloterweg. The smaller IJpleinveer IJpleinveer (MonSat 6.27am11.57pm, Sun 9.12am11.57pm) connects with the (MonSat 6.27am11.57pm, Sun 9.12am11.57pm) connects with the IJplein IJplein at the southern end of Meeuwenlaan, the starting point of the Waterland bike tour described above; it runs roughly every ten to fifteen minutes. at the southern end of Meeuwenlaan, the starting point of the Waterland bike tour described above; it runs roughly every ten to fifteen minutes.

Day-trips from the city Amsterdammers always try to persuade you that there's nothing remotely worth seeing outside their city, but the truth is very much the opposite indeed, you're spoilt for choice. The fast and efficient Dutch railway network puts a whole swathe of the Netherlands within easy reach, including all of the Randstad Randstad (literally "Ring City"), a sprawling conurbation that stretches south of Amsterdam to encompa.s.s the country's other big cities, primarily The Hague, Utrecht and Rotterdam. Amid the urban sprawl, and very close to Amsterdam, is one especially appealing medium-sized town, (literally "Ring City"), a sprawling conurbation that stretches south of Amsterdam to encompa.s.s the country's other big cities, primarily The Hague, Utrecht and Rotterdam. Amid the urban sprawl, and very close to Amsterdam, is one especially appealing medium-sized town, Haarlem Haarlem, whose attractive centre is home to the outstanding Frans Hals Museum. Further south about 40km from Amsterdam and 15km from Haarlem is another enticing attraction, the worldfamous Keukenhof Gardens Keukenhof Gardens, the springtime showcase for the country's flower growers, the land striped by long lines of brilliant blooms. To the north of Amsterdam, there's more countryside and less city. The most obvious targets are the old seaports bordering the freshwater Markermeer Markermeer, comprising the southern part of the IJsselmeer, created when the Afsluitdijk dam cut the former Zuider Zee off from the North Sea in 1932. No trains venture out along this coast, but it's an easy bus ride from Amsterdam to the nearest three places of interest: the former fis.h.i.+ng village of Marken Marken, the port of Volendam Volendam and best of the lot the beguiling, one-time s.h.i.+pbuilding centre of and best of the lot the beguiling, one-time s.h.i.+pbuilding centre of Edam Edam. Edam is, of course, famous for its cheese, but its open-air cheese market is not a patch on that of Alkmaar Alkmaar, itself an amiable and attractive small town forty minutes by train north of Amsterdam.

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Day-trips from the city Haarlem Though only fifteen minutes from Amsterdam by train, HAARLEM HAARLEM has a very different pace and feel from its big-city neighbour. It is an easy-going, medium-sized town of around 15,000 souls, benefiting from an old, attractive centre that's easily absorbed in a few hours or an overnight stay. Founded on the banks of the River Spaarne in the tenth century, the town first prospered when the counts of Holland decided to levy s.h.i.+pping tolls here, but later it developed as a cloth-making centre. In 1572 the townsfolk sided with the Protestant rebels against the Habsburgs, a decision they must have regretted when a large Spanish army led by Frederick of Toledo besieged them later in the same year. The siege was a desperate affair that lasted for eight months, but finally the town surrendered after receiving various a.s.surances of good treatment a.s.surances which Frederick promptly broke, ma.s.sacring over two thousand of the Protestant garrison and all their Calvinist ministers. Recaptured in 1577 by the Protestant army of William the Silent, Haarlem went on to enjoy its greatest prosperity in the seventeenth century, becoming a centre for the arts and home to a flouris.h.i.+ng school of painters, whose canvases are displayed at the first-rate has a very different pace and feel from its big-city neighbour. It is an easy-going, medium-sized town of around 15,000 souls, benefiting from an old, attractive centre that's easily absorbed in a few hours or an overnight stay. Founded on the banks of the River Spaarne in the tenth century, the town first prospered when the counts of Holland decided to levy s.h.i.+pping tolls here, but later it developed as a cloth-making centre. In 1572 the townsfolk sided with the Protestant rebels against the Habsburgs, a decision they must have regretted when a large Spanish army led by Frederick of Toledo besieged them later in the same year. The siege was a desperate affair that lasted for eight months, but finally the town surrendered after receiving various a.s.surances of good treatment a.s.surances which Frederick promptly broke, ma.s.sacring over two thousand of the Protestant garrison and all their Calvinist ministers. Recaptured in 1577 by the Protestant army of William the Silent, Haarlem went on to enjoy its greatest prosperity in the seventeenth century, becoming a centre for the arts and home to a flouris.h.i.+ng school of painters, whose canvases are displayed at the first-rate Frans Hals Museum Frans Hals Museum, located in the almshouse where the artist spent his last and, for some, his most brilliant years.

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Day-trips from the city Haarlem Haarlem Arrival and information There are fast and very frequent train services between Amsterdam and Haarlem; trains leave every ten minutes or so and take about fifteen minutes. The city's train station train station is just north of the city centre, about ten minutes' walk from the main square, the Grote Markt; is just north of the city centre, about ten minutes' walk from the main square, the Grote Markt; buses buses stop just in front. The stop just in front. The VVV VVV is on the other side of the centre, at Verwulft 11 (AprilSept MonFri 9.30am5.30pm, Sat 10am5pm, Sun 11am3pm; OctMarch same hours, closed Sun; 0900/61 61 600, is on the other side of the centre, at Verwulft 11 (AprilSept MonFri 9.30am5.30pm, Sat 10am5pm, Sun 11am3pm; OctMarch same hours, closed Sun; 0900/61 61 600, www.vvvhaarlem.nl), and issues free city maps city maps and brochures. and brochures. Bike rental Bike rental is available at the train station. is available at the train station.

Day-trips from the city Haarlem Haarlem Accommodation The VVV has details of a small number of rooms in private houses rooms in private houses, mostly on the outskirts of town and costing in the region of 45 per double per night, and can provide hotel information.

Amadeus Grote Markt 10 023/532 4530, Grote Markt 10 023/532 4530, www.amadeus-hotel.com. This homely, medium-sized hotel has plain but perfectly comfortable en-suite rooms for around 80 a double including breakfast. The front bedrooms have pleasant views over the main square.

Amrath Grand Hotel Frans Hals Damstraat 10 023/518 1818, Damstraat 10 023/518 1818, www.bestwestern.com. Right in the town centre, this modern chain hotel has 79 smart and well-appointed modern rooms for around 100 most of the time, breakfast not included.

Carillon Grote Markt 27 023/531 0591, Grote Markt 27 023/531 0591, www.hotelcarillon.com. Bang on the Grote Markt, this couldn't be more central. Rooms are fine if a little Spartan, but they're well equipped and good value at 80 a double. Triples and quads for around 100.

Stempels Klokhuisplein 9 023/512 3910. Housed in a former printworks right behind the Grote Kerk, this is a complex of boutique hotel, bar and restaurant that does its best to be Haarlem's most desirable place to stay. The staff could be friendlier but its doubles for 100140 are reasonable value. Klokhuisplein 9 023/512 3910. Housed in a former printworks right behind the Grote Kerk, this is a complex of boutique hotel, bar and restaurant that does its best to be Haarlem's most desirable place to stay. The staff could be friendlier but its doubles for 100140 are reasonable value.

Day-trips from the city Haarlem Haarlem The Town At the heart of Haarlem is the Grote Markt Grote Markt, a wide and attractive open s.p.a.ce flanked by an appealing ensemble of neo-Gothic, Gothic and Renaissance architecture, including an intriguing, if exceptionally garbled, Stadhuis Stadhuis, whose turrets and towers, balconies, gables and galleries were put together in piecemeal fas.h.i.+on between the fourteenth and seventeenth centuries. At the other end of the Grote Markt stands a statue statue of a certain of a certain Laurens Coster Laurens Coster (13701440), who, Haarlemmers insist, is the true inventor of printing. Legend tells of Coster cutting a letter "A" from the bark of a tree, dropping it into the sand by accident, and, hey presto, he realized how to create the printed word. The statue shows him earnestly holding up the letter concerned, though actually most historians agree that it was the German Johannes Gutenberg who invented printing in the 1440s. (13701440), who, Haarlemmers insist, is the true inventor of printing. Legend tells of Coster cutting a letter "A" from the bark of a tree, dropping it into the sand by accident, and, hey presto, he realized how to create the printed word. The statue shows him earnestly holding up the letter concerned, though actually most historians agree that it was the German Johannes Gutenberg who invented printing in the 1440s.

Day-trips from the city Haarlem Haarlem The Town The Town Haarlem's hofjes Haarlem's hofjesYou could do worse than spend a day exploring Haarlem's hofjes hofjes small, unpretentious complexes of public housing built for the old and infirm in the seventeenth century. The best known and perhaps most accessible is the one that was home to Frans Hals in the last years of his life and is now the museum dedicated to him and his contemporaries. But there are others dotted around town, most of them still serving their original purpose but with their gardens at least open to the public. The most grandiose is the riverside small, unpretentious complexes of public housing built for the old and infirm in the seventeenth century. The best known and perhaps most accessible is the one that was home to Frans Hals in the last years of his life and is now the museum dedicated to him and his contemporaries. But there are others dotted around town, most of them still serving their original purpose but with their gardens at least open to the public. The most grandiose is the riverside Teylers Hofje Teylers Hofje, a little way east of the museum of the same name around the bend of the Spaarne at Koudenhorn 64. Unlike most of the other hofjes hofjes, which are decidedly cosy, this is a Neocla.s.sical edifice dating from 1787 and featuring solid columns and cupolas. To the west, the elegant fifteenth-century tower of the Bakenesserkerk Bakenesserkerk on Vrouwestraat is a flamboyant, onion-domed affair soaring high above the Haarlem skyline, and marks the nearby on Vrouwestraat is a flamboyant, onion-domed affair soaring high above the Haarlem skyline, and marks the nearby Bakenes Hofje Bakenes Hofje, Haarlem's oldest, with a delightful enclosed garden. On the other side of the city centre, the Brouweshofje Brouweshofje, just off Botermarkt, is a small, peaceful rectangle of housing, with windows framed by brightly painted red and white shutters, while the nearby Hofje Van Loo Hofje Van Loo, on nearby Barrevoetstraat, is unlike the rest, open to view from the road.

Day-trips from the city Haarlem Haarlem The Town The Town The Grote Kerk The Coster statue stands in the shadow of the Grote Kerk Grote Kerk, or Sint Bavokerk (MonSat 10am4pm; 2), a soaring Gothic structure supported by mighty b.u.t.tresses, which dwarfs the surrounding clutter of ecclesiastical outhouses. If you've been to the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam (see "The Rijksmuseum"), the church may seem familiar, at least from the outside, since it turns up in several paintings of Haarlem by the seventeenth-century artists Berckheyde and Saenredam only the black-coated burghers are missing. Finished in 1538, and 150 years in the making, the church is surmounted by a handsome lantern tower, which perches above the transept crossing; the tower is made of wood clad in lead, a replacement for a much grander stone tower that had to be dismantled in 1514 when its supports began to buckle.

Entry to the church is at the back, on Oude Groenmarkt, with a humble pa.s.sageway leading to the southeast end of the to the church is at the back, on Oude Groenmarkt, with a humble pa.s.sageway leading to the southeast end of the nave nave, whose towering beauty is enhanced by the creaminess of the stone and the bright simplicity of the whitewashed walls. The Protestants cleared the church of most of its decoration during the Reformation, but the splendid wrought-iron choir screen choir screen has survived, as have the choir's wooden stalls with their folksy misericords, carved with expressive faces, each one different. In front of the screen is the conspicuous Neocla.s.sical has survived, as have the choir's wooden stalls with their folksy misericords, carved with expressive faces, each one different. In front of the screen is the conspicuous Neocla.s.sical tomb tomb of Haarlem's own Christiaan Brunings (17361805), a much-lauded hydraulic engineer and director of Holland's water board, who devised a strategy for controlling the waters of the lower Rhine. of Haarlem's own Christiaan Brunings (17361805), a much-lauded hydraulic engineer and director of Holland's water board, who devised a strategy for controlling the waters of the lower Rhine.

Close by, next to the south transept, is the Brewers Brewers' Chapel Chapel, where the central pillar bears two black markers one showing the height of a local giant, the 2.64-metre-tall Daniel Caja.n.u.s, who died in 1749, the other the 0.84-metre-high dwarf Simon Paap from Zandvoort (17891828). In the middle of the nave, the pulpit's banisters are in the form of snakes fleeing from the word of G.o.d while across the other side is the pocket-sized Dog Whippers Dog Whippers' Chapel Chapel, built for the men employed to keep dogs under control in the church, as evidenced by the rings to tether them to, now separated from the nave by an iron grille.

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The Grote Kerk, Haarlem At the west end of the church, the mighty Christian Muller organ organ was manufactured in Amsterdam in the 1730s. It is said to have been played by Handel and Mozart (the latter on his tour of the country in 1766, at the age of ten) and is one of the biggest in the world, with over five thousand pipes and lots of snazzy Baroque embellishment. Hear it at work at one of the free organ recitals held in the summer (mid-May to mid-Oct Tues 8.15pm, July & Aug also Thurs 3pm; free). Beneath the organ, Jan Baptist Xavery's lovely group of draped marble figures represents Poetry and Music offering thanks to Haarlem, which is depicted as a patroness of the arts in return for its generous support in the purchase of the organ. was manufactured in Amsterdam in the 1730s. It is said to have been played by Handel and Mozart (the latter on his tour of the country in 1766, at the age of ten) and is one of the biggest in the world, with over five thousand pipes and lots of snazzy Baroque embellishment. Hear it at work at one of the free organ recitals held in the summer (mid-May to mid-Oct Tues 8.15pm, July & Aug also Thurs 3pm; free). Beneath the organ, Jan Baptist Xavery's lovely group of draped marble figures represents Poetry and Music offering thanks to Haarlem, which is depicted as a patroness of the arts in return for its generous support in the purchase of the organ.

Day-trips from the city Haarlem Haarlem The Town The Town The Hallen Back outside, just beyond the western end of the church, the rambling Hallen Hallen divides into two; first up is the old meat market, the divides into two; first up is the old meat market, the Vleeshal Vleeshal, which boasts a flashy Dutch Renaissance facade and a bas.e.m.e.nt given over to the modest Archeologisch Museum Archeologisch Museum (WedSun 15pm; free). A couple of doors along is the (WedSun 15pm; free). A couple of doors along is the Kunstcentrum De Hallen Kunstcentrum De Hallen (TuesSat 11am5pm, Sun noon5pm; 5), an art gallery where the emphasis is on temporary exhibitions of modern and contemporary art and photography. (TuesSat 11am5pm, Sun noon5pm; 5), an art gallery where the emphasis is on temporary exhibitions of modern and contemporary art and photography.

Day-trips from the city Haarlem Haarlem The Town The Town The Corrie Ten Boomhuis After these modest attractions, you'll probably want to push on south to Haarlem's star turn, the Frans Hals Museum the Frans Hals Museum, but you might consider a brief detour north from the Grote Markt to the Corrie Ten Boomhuis Corrie Ten Boomhuis, Barteljorisstraat 19 (AprilOct TuesSat 10am4pm; NovMarch TuesSat 11am3pm; 1hr guided tours only; free; www.corrietenboom.com), where a Dutch family the Ten Booms hid fugitives, resistance fighters and Jews alike, above their jewellers shop during World War II. There isn't actually much to look at, but the guided tour is instructive and moving, if a tad drawn-out. The family, whose bravery sprang from their Christian faith, was betrayed to the Gestapo in 1944, and only one, Corrie Ten Boom, survived as does the jewellers itself, still doing business at street level.

Day-trips from the city Haarlem Haarlem The Town The Town The Frans Hals Museum Haarlem's biggest draw, the Frans Hals Museum Frans Hals Museum (TuesSat 11am5pm, Sun noon5pm; 7.50; (TuesSat 11am5pm, Sun noon5pm; 7.50; www.franshalsmuseum.nl), is a five-minute stroll south of the Grote Markt at Groot Heiligland 62; to get there, take pedestrianized Warmoesstraat and keep going. The museum occupies an old almshouse complex, a much-modified red-brick hofje hofje with a central courtyard, where the aged Hals lived out his last dest.i.tute years on public funds. The collection comprises a handful of prime works by Hals along with a sample of Flemish and Dutch paintings from the fifteenth century onwards, all immaculately presented and labelled in English and Dutch. with a central courtyard, where the aged Hals lived out his last dest.i.tute years on public funds. The collection comprises a handful of prime works by Hals along with a sample of Flemish and Dutch paintings from the fifteenth century onwards, all immaculately presented and labelled in English and Dutch.

The museum begins with a small group of early sixteenth sixteenth-century paintings, the most prominent of which is a triptych from the School of Hans Memling School of Hans Memling. Next door are two works by Jan van Scorel Jan van Scorel (14951562): a polished (14951562): a polished Adam and Eve Adam and Eve and and Pilgrims to Jerusalem Pilgrims to Jerusalem, one of the country's earliest group portraits, and, beyond that, Cornelis Cornelisz van Haarlem Cornelis Cornelisz van Haarlem's (15621638) giant (15621638) giant Wedding of Peleus and Thetis Wedding of Peleus and Thetis, an appealing rendition of what was then a popular subject, though Cornelisz gives as much attention to the arrangement of his elegant nudes as to the subject. This marriage precipitated civil war among the G.o.ds and was used by the Dutch as an emblem of warning against discord, a call for unity during the long war with Spain. Similarly, and in the same room, the same artist's Ma.s.sacre of the Innocents Ma.s.sacre of the Innocents connects the biblical story with the Spanish siege of Haarlem in 1572, while three accomplished pictures by connects the biblical story with the Spanish siege of Haarlem in 1572, while three accomplished pictures by Hendrik Goltzius Hendrik Goltzius (15581617) hang opposite depictions of Hercules, Mercury and Minerva. Look out also for (15581617) hang opposite depictions of Hercules, Mercury and Minerva. Look out also for Adam and Eve Adam and Eve by the Haarlem painter by the Haarlem painter Marten van Heemskerck Marten van Heemskerck (14981574), whose work dominates the next room, in particular a brutal and realistic (14981574), whose work dominates the next room, in particular a brutal and realistic Christ Crowned with Thorns Christ Crowned with Thorns and a painting of St Luke with the Virgin and infant Jesus, a gift to the Haarlem St Luke's guild. Moving on, the next rooms hold several paintings by the and a painting of St Luke with the Virgin and infant Jesus, a gift to the Haarlem St Luke's guild. Moving on, the next rooms hold several paintings by the Haarlem Mannerists Haarlem Mannerists, including two tiny and precise works by Karel van Mander Karel van Mander (15481606), leading light of the Haarlem School and mentor of many of the city's most celebrated painters, including Hals, and depictions of the Grote Kerk by (15481606), leading light of the Haarlem School and mentor of many of the city's most celebrated painters, including Hals, and depictions of the Grote Kerk by Gerrit Berckheyde Gerrit Berckheyde (163898) and others. Look out also for (163898) and others. Look out also for Pieter Brueghel the Younger Pieter Brueghel the Younger's (15641638) berserk Dutch Proverbs Dutch Proverbs, ill.u.s.trating a whole raft of contemporary proverbs a detailed key next to the painting gives the lowdown.

The Hals paintings Hals paintings begin in earnest in Room 14 with a set of five "Civic Guard" portraits group portraits of the militia companies initially formed to defend the country from the Spanish, but which later became social clubs for the gentry. With great flair and originality, Hals made the group portrait a unified whole instead of a static collection of individual portraits, his figures carefully arranged, but so cleverly as not to appear contrived. For a time, Hals himself was a member of the Company of St George, and in his begin in earnest in Room 14 with a set of five "Civic Guard" portraits group portraits of the militia companies initially formed to defend the country from the Spanish, but which later became social clubs for the gentry. With great flair and originality, Hals made the group portrait a unified whole instead of a static collection of individual portraits, his figures carefully arranged, but so cleverly as not to appear contrived. For a time, Hals himself was a member of the Company of St George, and in his Officers of the Militia Company of St George Officers of the Militia Company of St George he appears second from left in the top left-hand corner one of his few self-portraits. See also Hals's Haarlem contemporary Johannes Versp.r.o.nck's (160062) he appears second from left in the top left-hand corner one of his few self-portraits. See also Hals's Haarlem contemporary Johannes Versp.r.o.nck's (160062) Regentesses of the Holy Ghost Orphanage Regentesses of the Holy Ghost Orphanage one of the most accomplished pictures in the gallery. one of the most accomplished pictures in the gallery.

Hals's later paintings later paintings are darker, more contemplative works, closer to Rembrandt in their lighting and increasingly sombre in their outlook. The artist's are darker, more contemplative works, closer to Rembrandt in their lighting and increasingly sombre in their outlook. The artist's Regents of St Elizabeth Gasthuis Regents of St Elizabeth Gasthuis has a palpable sense of optimism, whereas his twin has a palpable sense of optimism, whereas his twin Regents and Regentesses of the Oudemannenhuis Regents and Regentesses of the Oudemannenhuis are quite the opposite commissioned when Hals was in his eighties, a poor man despite a successful painting career, hounded for money by the town's tradesmen and by the mothers of his illegitimate children. As a result he was dependent on the charity of people like those depicted here: their cold, self-satisfied faces staring out of the gloom, the women reproachful, the men only marginally more affable. There are those who claim Hals had lost his touch by the time he painted these pictures, yet their sinister, almost ghostly power suggests quite the opposite. Van Gogh's remark that "Frans Hals had no fewer than 27 blacks" suddenly makes perfect sense. are quite the opposite commissioned when Hals was in his eighties, a poor man despite a successful painting career, hounded for money by the town's tradesmen and by the mothers of his illegitimate children. As a result he was dependent on the charity of people like those depicted here: their cold, self-satisfied faces staring out of the gloom, the women reproachful, the men only marginally more affable. There are those who claim Hals had lost his touch by the time he painted these pictures, yet their sinister, almost ghostly power suggests quite the opposite. Van Gogh's remark that "Frans Hals had no fewer than 27 blacks" suddenly makes perfect sense.

Day-trips from the city Haarlem Haarlem The Town The Town The Frans Hals Museum The Frans Hals Museum Frans Hals Frans HalsLittle is known about Frans Hals Frans Hals (c.15801666). Born in Antwerp, the son of Flemish refugees who settled in Haarlem in the late 1580s, he has relatively few surviving works some two hundred paintings, and nothing like the number of sketches and studies left behind by his contemporary, Rembrandt. His outstanding gift was as a portraitist, showing a sympathy with his subjects and an ability to capture fleeting expression that some say even Rembrandt lacked. Seemingly quick and careless flashes of colour characterize his work, but they are always blended into a coherent and marvellously animated whole. (c.15801666). Born in Antwerp, the son of Flemish refugees who settled in Haarlem in the late 1580s, he has relatively few surviving works some two hundred paintings, and nothing like the number of sketches and studies left behind by his contemporary, Rembrandt. His outstanding gift was as a portraitist, showing a sympathy with his subjects and an ability to capture fleeting expression that some say even Rembrandt lacked. Seemingly quick and careless flashes of colour characterize his work, but they are always blended into a coherent and marvellously animated whole.

Day-trips from the city Haarlem Haarlem The Town The Town The Teylers Museum It's a short stroll from the Grote Markt to the River Spaarne River Spaarne, whose wandering curves mark the eastern periphery of the town centre, home to the surly stone facade of the Waag Waag (Weigh House) and the country's oldest museum, the (Weigh House) and the country's oldest museum, the Teylers Museum Teylers Museum, located in a grand Neocla.s.sical building at Spaarne 16 (TuesSat 10am5pm, Sun noon5pm; 7; www.teylersmuseum.nl). Founded in 1774 by a wealthy local philanthropist, one Pieter Teyler van der Hulst Pieter Teyler van der Hulst, the museum is delightfully old-fas.h.i.+oned, its wooden cabinets crammed with fossils and bones, crystals and rocks, medals and coins, all displayed alongside dozens of antique scientific instruments of lugubrious appearance and uncertain purpose. The finest room is the rotunda rotunda De Ovale Zaal a handsome, galleried affair with splendid wooden panelling, and there is also a room of nineteenth-century and early twentieth-century Dutch paintings, featuring the likes of Breitner, Israels, Weissenbruch and Wijbrand Hendriks (17741831), who was once the keeper of the art collection here. De Ovale Zaal a handsome, galleried affair with splendid wooden panelling, and there is also a room of nineteenth-century and early twentieth-century Dutch paintings, featuring the likes of Breitner, Israels, Weissenbruch and Wijbrand Hendriks (17741831), who was once the keeper of the art collection here.

Day-trips from the city Haarlem Haarlem Eating and drinking For a fairly small town, Haarlem has a surprisingly good range of bars, cafes and restaurants, all within easy walking distance of each other.

Applause Grote Markt 23a 023/531 1425. A chic little bistro serving Italian food with excellent main courses hovering at around 15. WedSun noon3pm & 5.309.30pm. Grote Markt 23a 023/531 1425. A chic little bistro serving Italian food with excellent main courses hovering at around 15. WedSun noon3pm & 5.309.30pm.

Fortuyn Grand Cafe Grote Markt 21. A popular cafe-bar with charming 1930s decor, including a tiled entrance and quaint gla.s.s cabinets preserved from its days as a shop. Decent food, otherwise a nice place for a coffee or hot chocolate. Grote Markt 21. A popular cafe-bar with charming 1930s decor, including a tiled entrance and quaint gla.s.s cabinets preserved from its days as a shop. Decent food, otherwise a nice place for a coffee or hot chocolate.

In Den Uiver Riviervismarkt 13. Just off the Grote Markt, this lively and extremely appealing brown cafe is decked out in traditional Dutch cafe style; it has occasional live music too. Riviervismarkt 13. Just off the Grote Markt, this lively and extremely appealing brown cafe is decked out in traditional Dutch cafe style; it has occasional live music too.

Jacobus Pieck Warmeosstraat 18 023/532 6144. Welcoming cafe-restaurant that's a good bet for either lunch or dinner, with sandwiches, burgers and salads for 58 at lunchtime and a more substantial menu served in the evening. Mon 11am4pm, TuesSat 11am4.15pm & 5.3010pm. Warmeosstraat 18 023/532 6144. Welcoming cafe-restaurant that's a good bet for either lunch or dinner, with sandwiches, burgers and salads for 58 at lunchtime and a more substantial menu served in the evening. Mon 11am4pm, TuesSat 11am4.15pm & 5.3010pm.

Lambermons Korte Veerstraat 51 023/542 7804. Large and comfortable restaurant and bra.s.serie serving both cla.s.sic Dutch and French food everything from Korte Veerstraat 51 023/542 7804. Large and comfortable restaurant and bra.s.serie serving both cla.s.sic Dutch and French food everything from bouillabaisse bouillabaisse to to pot au feu pot au feu, to oysters and seafood or just cheese and charcuterie plates if you prefer. Bra.s.serie TuesSat noon10pm, restaurant 610pm.

Proeflokaal Blauwe Druif Lange Veerstraat 7. Just off the main square, this is an intimate, typically Dutch bar. Lange Veerstraat 7. Just off the main square, this is an intimate, typically Dutch bar.

Specktakel Spekstraat 4 023/532 3841. Inventive little restaurant that tries its hand at an international menu everything from kangaroo through to antelope. For the most part, the main courses are very successful and cost around 17. Daily from 5pm, Sat also noon4pm. Spekstraat 4 023/532 3841. Inventive little restaurant that tries its hand at an international menu everything from kangaroo through to antelope. For the most part, the main courses are very successful and cost around 17. Daily from 5pm, Sat also noon4pm.

De Vlaminck Warmoesstraat 3. Decent and very central Warmoesstraat 3. Decent and very central friterie friterie and snack bar if you fancy a lunch on the go. Tues 11.30am6pm, Sat 11.30am5pm, Sun noon5pm. and snack bar if you fancy a lunch on the go. Tues 11.30am6pm, Sat 11.30am5pm, Sun noon5pm.

Day-trips from the city The Dutch bulbfields The pancake-flat fields extending south from Haarlem towards Leiden are the heart of the Dutch bulbfields Dutch bulbfields, whose bulbs and blooms support a billion-euro industry and some ten thousand growers, as well as attracting tourists in their droves. Bulbs have flourished here since the late sixteenth century, when a certain Carolus Clusius Carolus Clusius, a Dutch botanist and one-time gardener to the Habsburg emperor, brought the first tulip bulb tulip bulb over from Vienna, where it had in its turn been brought from modern-day Turkey by an Austrian aristocrat. The tulip flourished in Holland's sandy soil and was so highly prized that it created a ma.s.sive speculative bubble. At the height of the boom in the mid-1630s bulbs were commanding extraordinary prices; the artist Jan van Goyen, for instance, paid 1900 guilders and two paintings for ten rare bulbs, while another set of one hundred bulbs was swapped for a coach and pair of horses. The bubble burst in 1636, thanks to the intervention of the government, and the bulb industry returned to normal, though it left hundreds of investors ruined, much to the satisfaction of the country's Calvinist ministers, who had railed against the excesses. over from Vienna, where it had in its turn been brought from modern-day Turkey by an Austrian aristocrat. The tulip flourished in Holland's sandy soil and was so highly prized that it created a ma.s.sive speculative bubble. At the height of the boom in the mid-1630s bulbs were commanding extraordinary prices; the artist Jan van Goyen, for instance, paid 1900 guilders and two paintings for ten rare bulbs, while another set of one hundred bulbs was swapped for a coach and pair of horses. The bubble burst in 1636, thanks to the intervention of the government, and the bulb industry returned to normal, though it left hundreds of investors ruined, much to the satisfaction of the country's Calvinist ministers, who had railed against the excesses.

Other types of bulb were introduced after the tulip, and today the spring flowering sequence spring flowering sequence begins in mid-March with crocuses, followed by daffodils and yellow narcissi in late March, hyacinths and tulips in mid- and late April through to May, and gladioli in August. begins in mid-March with crocuses, followed by daffodils and yellow narcissi in late March, hyacinths and tulips in mid- and late April through to May, and gladioli in August.

Day-trips from the city The Dutch bulbfields The Dutch bulbfields The Keukenhof Gardens The views views of the bulbfields from any of the trains heading towards Leiden from the north and northeast can often be sufficient in themselves, with the fields divided into stark geometric blocks of pure colour, but with your own transport you can take in their full beauty by way of special of the bulbfields from any of the trains heading towards Leiden from the north and northeast can often be sufficient in themselves, with the fields divided into stark geometric blocks of pure colour, but with your own transport you can take in their full beauty by way of special routes routes marked by hexagonal signposts; local VVVs (tourist offices) sell pamphlets describing the routes in detail. Alternatively, if you're after bulbs, then make a beeline for bulb growers' showcase, the marked by hexagonal signposts; local VVVs (tourist offices) sell pamphlets describing the routes in detail. Alternatively, if you're after bulbs, then make a beeline for bulb growers' showcase, the Keukenhof Gardens Keukenhof Gardens (late March to late May daily 8am7.30pm; 13.50; (late March to late May daily 8am7.30pm; 13.50; www.keukenhof.nl), located on the edge of the little town of LISSE LISSE, beside the N208 about 15km north of Leiden. The largest flower gardens in the world, dating back to 1949, the Keukenhof was designed by a group of prominent bulb growers to convert people to the joys of growing flowers from bulbs in their own gardens. Literally the "kitchen garden", its site is the former estate of a fifteenth-century countess, who used to grow herbs and vegetables for her dining table. Several million flowers are on show for their full flowering period, complemented in case of especially harsh winters by thousands of square metres of gla.s.shouse holding indoor displays. You could easily spend a whole day here, swooning with the sheer abundance of it all, but to get the best of it you need to come early, before the tour buses pack the place. There are several restaurants in the grounds and a network of well-marked footpaths explore every horticultural nook and cranny.

To get to the Keukenhof by public transport public transport from Amsterdam, take the train from Centraal Station to Leiden Centraal (every 30min; 40min journey) and then catch from Amsterdam, take the train from Centraal Station to Leiden Centraal (every 30min; 40min journey) and then catch bus #54 bus #54 (every 30min; 30min journey) from the main bus station next door. (every 30min; 30min journey) from the main bus station next door.

Day-trips from the city Volendam, Marken and Edam The turbulent waters of the Zuider Zee Zuider Zee were once busy with Dutch trading s.h.i.+ps shuttling to and from the Baltic. This trade was the linchpin of Holland's prosperity in the Golden Age, revolving around the import of huge quant.i.ties of grain, the supply of which was munic.i.p.ally controlled to safeguard against famine. The business was immensely profitable and its proceeds built a string of prosperous seaports including were once busy with Dutch trading s.h.i.+ps shuttling to and from the Baltic. This trade was the linchpin of Holland's prosperity in the Golden Age, revolving around the import of huge quant.i.ties of grain, the supply of which was munic.i.p.ally controlled to safeguard against famine. The business was immensely profitable and its proceeds built a string of prosperous seaports including Volendam Volendam and nourished market towns like and nourished market towns like Edam Edam, while the Zuider Zee itself supported a batch of fis.h.i.+ng villages such as Marken Marken. In the eighteenth century, the Baltic trade declined and the harbours silted up, leaving the ports economically stranded, and, with the rapid increase in the Dutch population during the nineteenth century, plans were made to reclaim the Zuider Zee and turn it into farmland. In the event, the Zuider Zee was only partly reclaimed, creating a pair of freshwater lakes the Markermeer Markermeer and the and the IJsselmeer IJsselmeer.

These placid, steel-grey lakes lakes are popular with day-tripping Amsterdammers, who come here in their droves to sail boats, observe the waterfowl, and visit a string of attractive small towns and villages. These begin on the coast just a few kilometres north of Amsterdam with the picturesque old fis.h.i.+ng village of Marken and the former seaport of Volendam just up along the coast. From Volendam, it's three kilometres further up the coast to Edam, the pick of the local bunch, a small and infinitely pretty little town of narrow ca.n.a.ls and handsome old houses. are popular with day-tripping Amsterdammers, who come here in their droves to sail boats, observe the waterfowl, and visit a string of attractive small towns and villages. These begin on the coast just a few kilometres north of Amsterdam with the picturesque old fis.h.i.+ng village of Marken and the former seaport of Volendam just up along the coast. From Volendam, it's three kilometres further up the coast to Edam, the pick of the local bunch, a small and infinitely pretty little town of narrow ca.n.a.ls and handsome old houses.

There are fast and frequent buses buses from Amsterdam's Centraal Station to Marken, Volendam and Edam, but more poetically, there's a seasonal from Amsterdam's Centraal Station to Marken, Volendam and Edam, but more poetically, there's a seasonal pa.s.senger ferry pa.s.senger ferry, the Marken Express Marken Express, which skittles along the coast between Marken and Volendam, giving a taste of the pond-like Markermeer. At a bit of a push, all three places can be visited in a day.

Day-trips from the city Volendam, Marken and Edam Volendam, Marken and Edam Volendam The former fis.h.i.+ng village of VOLENDAM VOLENDAM is the largest of the Markermeer towns and has had, by comparison with its neighbours, some rip-roaring cosmopolitan times. In the early years of the twentieth century it became something of an artists' retreat, with both Pica.s.so and Renoir spending time here, along with their a.s.sorted acolytes. The artists are, however, long gone and nowadays Volendam is, in season, crammed with day-trippers running the gauntlet of the souvenir stalls that run the length of the cobbled main street, whose perky gables line up behind the harbour. The is the largest of the Markermeer towns and has had, by comparison with its neighbours, some rip-roaring cosmopolitan times. In the early years of the twentieth century it became something of an artists' retreat, with both Pica.s.so and Renoir spending time here, along with their a.s.sorted acolytes. The artists are, however, long gone and nowadays Volendam is, in season, crammed with day-trippers running the gauntlet of the souvenir stalls that run the length of the cobbled main street, whose perky gables line up behind the harbour. The Volendams Museum Volendams Museum, by the bus stop at Zeestraat 41 (mid-March to mid-Nov daily 10am5pm; 2.50), has displays of paintings by the artists who have come here over the years, along with mannekins in local costumes and several interiors a shop, school and living room as well as the museum's crowning glory a series of mosaics made from 11 million cigar bands: the bizarre lifetime project of a local Volendam artist. You can see more paintings in the antique-filled public rooms of the Hotel Spaander Hotel Spaander, on the waterfront, whose creaking wooden floors, low ceilings, paintings and sketches are pleasant reminders of more artistic times. The hotel was opened in 1881 and its first owner, Leendert Spaander, was lucky enough to have seven daughters, quite enough to keep a whole bevy of artists in l.u.s.t for a decade or two. Some of the artists paid for their lodgings by giving Spaander paintings hence today's collection.

Day-trips from the city Volendam, Marken and Edam Volendam, Marken and Edam Volendam Volendam Practicalities In Volendam, buses buses #110 and #118 from Amsterdam and Monnickendam drop pa.s.sengers on Zeestraat, just across the street from the #110 and #118 from Amsterdam and Monnickendam drop pa.s.sengers on Zeestraat, just across the street from the VVV VVV, at Zeestraat 37 (mid-March to Oct MonSat 10am5pm; Nov to mid-March MonSat 10am3pm; 0299/363 747, www.vvvvolendam.nl). From the VVV, it's a five-minute walk to the waterfront, from where there is a regular pa.s.senger ferry pa.s.senger ferry to Marken (see " to Marken (see "Practicalities"). If you want to stay stay there's no better place than the there's no better place than the Hotel Spaander Hotel Spaander, Haven 1519 (0299/363 595, www.hotelspaander.com; from 120, not including breakfast). The Spaander Spaander's bar and restaurant are also good places to eat eat.

Day-trips from the city Volendam, Marken and Edam Volendam, Marken and Edam Marken Once an island in the Zuider Zee, Marken Marken was, until its road connection to the mainland in 1957, pretty much a closed community, supported by a small fis.h.i.+ng industry, but now it welcomes many tourists, whose numbers can reach alarming proportions on summer weekends. That said, there's no denying the picturesque charms of the island's one and only village also called was, until its road connection to the mainland in 1957, pretty much a closed community, supported by a small fis.h.i.+ng industry, but now it welcomes many tourists, whose numbers can reach alarming proportions on summer weekends. That said, there's no denying the picturesque charms of the island's one and only village also called MARKEN MARKEN where the immaculately maintained houses, mostly painted in deep green with white tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs, cl.u.s.ter on top of artificial mounds raised to protect them from the sea. where the immaculately maintained houses, mostly painted in deep green with white tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs, cl.u.s.ter on top of artificial mounds raised to protect them from the sea.

There are two main parts to the village. Havenbuurt Havenbuurt, around and behind the harbour, is the bit you see in most of the photographs, where many of the waterfront houses are raised on stilts. Although these are now panelled in, they were once open, allowing the sea to roll under the floors in bad weather, enough to terrify most people half to death. One or two of the houses are open to visitors as typical of Marken, and the waterfront is lined with snack bars and souvenir shops, often staffed by locals in traditional costume, but you do get a hint of how hard life used to be both here and in Kerkbuurt Kerkbuurt, five minutes' walk from the harbour around the church church, an ugly 1904 replacement for its sea-battered predecessor. Kerkbuurt is quieter and less touristy than Havenbuurt, its narrow lanes lined by ancient dwellings and a row of old eel-smoking houses, one of which is now the Marker Museum Marker Museum, Kerkbuurt 44 (AprilOct MonSat 10am4.30pm, Sun noon4pm; Oct MonSat 11am4pm; 2.50; www.markermuseum.nl), furnished as an old fishermen's cottage and devoted to the history of the former island and its fis.h.i.+ng industry.

Day-trips from the city Volendam, Marken and Edam Volendam, Marken and Edam Marken Marken Practicalities Marken is accessible direct from Amsterdam by bus bus #111, departing from outside Centraal Station (every 30min); the journey takes forty minutes. The bus drops pa.s.sengers beside the car park on the edge of Marken village, from where it's a five-minute walk to the lakesh.o.r.e. Marken does not have a VVV. A #111, departing from outside Centraal Station (every 30min); the journey takes forty minutes. The bus drops pa.s.sengers beside the car park on the edge of Marken village, from where it's a five-minute walk to the lakesh.o.r.e. Marken does not have a VVV. A pa.s.senger ferry pa.s.senger ferry, the Marken Express (029/936 3331, www.markenexpress.nl; MarchOct daily 11am5pm, every 3045min; 25-min journey; 7 return, bikes 2 return), links Marken with Volendam Volendam, but otherwise travelling between the two means a fiddly bus trip involving a change of buses and bus stops at Monnickendam Monnickendam, itself a former Zuider Zee port, but now a busy sailing centre. The AmsterdamMarken bus #111 stops on the southern edge of Monnickendam at the Swaensborch stop, from where it's a ten-minute walk across Monnickendam to the Bernhardbrug stop for bus #110 or #118 north to Volendam and Edam. Just back from the main harbour, the Hof van Marken Hof van Marken hotel, Buurt II, 15 (0299/601 300), has very comfortable rooms, furnished in a bright contemporary style from 95, and a simple but elegant restaurant, open WedSun for dinner, and lunch and dinner at weekends. The hotel, Buurt II, 15 (0299/601 300), has very comfortable rooms, furnished in a bright contemporary style from 95, and a simple but elegant restaurant, open WedSun for dinner, and lunch and dinner at weekends. The Land en Zeezicht Land en Zeezicht restaurant on the harbour at Havenbuurt 6 (0299/601 302) does a decent smoked eel sandwich as well as more substantial meals. restaurant on the harbour at Havenbuurt 6 (0299/601 302) does a decent smoked eel sandwich as well as more substantial meals.

Day-trips from the city Volendam, Marken and Edam Volendam, Marken and Edam Edam Just 3km from Volendam, you might expect EDAM EDAM to be jammed with tourists, considering the international fame of the rubbery red b.a.l.l.s of cheese that carry its name. In fact, Edam usually lacks the crowds of Volendam and Marken and remains a delightful, good-looking and prosperous little town of neat brick houses, high gables, swing bridges and slender ca.n.a.ls. Founded by farmers in the twelfth century, it experienced a temporary boom in the seventeenth as a s.h.i.+pbuilding centre with river access to the Zuider Zee. Thereafter, it was back to the farm and the excellent pasture land surrounding the town is still grazed by large herds of cows, though nowadays most to be jammed with tourists, considering the international fame of the rubbery red b.a.l.l.s of cheese that carry its name. In fact, Edam usually lacks the crowds of Volendam and Marken and remains a delightful, good-looking and prosperous little town of neat brick houses, high gables, swing bridges and slender ca.n.a.ls. Founded by farmers in the twelfth century, it experienced a temporary boom in the seventeenth as a s.h.i.+pbuilding centre with river access to the Zuider Zee. Thereafter, it was back to the farm and the excellent pasture land surrounding the town is still grazed by large herds of cows, though nowadays most Edam cheese Edam cheese is produced elsewhere in Germany, among other places ("Edam" is the name of a type of cheese and not its place of origin). This does, of course, rather undermine the authenticity of Edam's open-air is produced elsewhere in Germany, among other places ("Edam" is the name of a type of cheese and not its place of origin). This does, of course, rather undermine the authenticity of Edam's open-air cheese market cheese market, held every Wednesday morning in July and August on the Kaasmarkt Kaasmarkt, but it's still a popular attraction and the only time the town heaves with tourists.

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Day-trips from the city Volendam, Marken and Edam Volendam, Marken and Edam Edam Edam Arrival and information Every thirty minutes or so, buses buses #110, #116 and #110, #116 and # # 118 leave from outside Amsterdam's Centraal Station bound for Edam; the journey takes forty minutes. Edam's 118 leave from outside Amsterdam's Centraal Station bound for Edam; the journey takes forty minutes. Edam's bus station bus station is on the southwest edge of town, on Singelweg, a five- to ten-minute walk from Damplein, where the is on the southwest edge of town, on Singelweg, a five- to ten-minute walk from Damplein, where the VVV VVV, in the Stadhuis (mid-March to Oct MonSat 10am5pm, also Sun 14.30pm in July & Aug; Nov to mid-March MonSat 10am3pm; 0299/315 125, www.vvv-edam.nl), issues town maps and brochures. The VVV also has details of and takes bookings for local boat trips boat trips, both along the town's ca.n.a.ls and out into the Markermeer. Bike rental Bike rental is available at Ronald Schot, in the town centre at Grote Kerkstraat 7 (TuesFri 8.30am6pm & Sat 8.30am5pm; 0299/372 155, is available at Ronald Schot, in the town centre at Grote Kerkstraat 7 (TuesFri 8.30am6pm & Sat 8.30am5pm; 0299/372 155, www.ronaldschot.nl); one-day bike rental costs 6.50.

Day-trips from the city Volendam, Marken and Edam Volendam, Marken and Edam Edam Edam Arrival and information Arrival and information The Edam mermaid The Edam mermaidA number of mermaid legends mermaid legends have evolved around the coastal towns of northern Holland, but Edam's is the best. In 1