The Physiology of Taste Part 42
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Take one-third of the weight of Gruyere and one-sixth of the weight of b.u.t.ter.
Beat the eggs and mingle them with the b.u.t.ter and cheese in a ca.s.serole.
Put the kettle on a hot fire and stir it until the mixture is perfect. Put in more or less salt in proportion as the cheese is old or new. Serve it hot, with good wine, of which one should drink much. The feast will see sights.
DISAPPOINTMENT.
All one day was quiet at the Ecu de France, between Bourg and Bresse, when the sound of wheels was heard, and a superb English berline drove up, on the box of which were two pretty Abigails, wrapped in blue and red cloths.
At the sight, which announced a n.o.bleman on his travels, Chicot, that was his name, hurried to the door of the equipage. The wife stood at the door, the girls near by, while the boys from the stable hurried forward satisfied that they would receive a handsome gratuity.
The women were unpacked and there came from the berline, 1st, a fat Englishman, 2d, two thin, pale, red-haired girls, and 3d, a lady, apparently in the first stage of consumption.
The last spoke:
"Landlord," said she, "take care of the horses, give us a room and the women refreshments. All must cost only six francs; act accordingly."
Chicot put on his bonnet, madame went into the house, and the girls to their garrets.
The horses were, however, put into the stable, the Englishman read the papers, and the women had a pitcher of pure water. The ladies went up stairs. The six francs were received as a poor compensation for the trouble caused.
WONDERFUL EFFECTS OF A CLa.s.sICAL DINNER.
"Alas! how much I am to be pitied," said the elegiac voice of a gastronomer of the royal court of the Seine. "Hoping to be soon able to return home, I left my cook there; business detains me at Paris, and I have to depend on an old women the preparations of whom make me sick. Anything satisfies my wife and children, but I am made a martyr of the spit and pot."
Luckily a friend heard the complaint, who said, "You will not, my friend, be a martyr. Deign to accept a cla.s.sical dinner to-morrow, and after a game of piquet we will bury all in the abyss of the past."
The invitation was accepted, the mystery was solved, and since the 23d June, 1825, the professor has been delighted at having one of his best friends in royal court.
EFFECT AND DANGER OF STRONG DRINKS.
The artificial thirst we previously alluded to, is that which for the moment appeals to strong drinks as a momentary relief. It gradually becomes so habitual that those who grow used to it cannot do without it even through the night, and have to leave their bed to appease it.
This thirst then becomes a real disease, and when he has reached that point, it may safely be said that he has not two years to live.
I travelled in Holland with a rich Dantzick merchant, who had for fifty years kept the princ.i.p.al house for the sale of brandy.
"Monsieur," said he "none in France are aware of the importance of the trade in brandy, which for nearly a century my father and myself have carried on. I have watched with attention the workmen who yield to it as too many Germans do, and they generally die in the same manner."
"At first they take simply a gla.s.s in the morning, and for many years this suffices. It is a common habit with all workmen, and any one who did not indulge in it would be ridiculed by his companions. Then they double the dose, that is to say, take a gla.s.s at morning and night. Thus things continue about three years, when they begin to drink three times a day, and will only taste spirits in which highly scented herbs have been infused.
Having reached that point, one may be sure they have not more than six months to live, for they go to the hospital and are seen no more."
CHEVALIERS AND ABBES.
I have already referred to these categories of gourmandise destroyed by time.
As they disappeared thirty years since, few of the present generation ever saw them.
About the end of the century they will probably reappear, but as such a phenomenon demand the coincidence of many future contingencies, I think few who live will ever witness this palingenesia.
As a painter of manners I must give the last touch to my portrait, and will borrow the following pa.s.sage from an author, who, I know, will refuse me nothing.
"The t.i.tle of Chevalier was only correctly granted to persons who had been decorated, or to the younger sons of n.o.ble houses. Many of the Chevaliers of other families would take the t.i.tle for themselves, and if they had education and good manners, none doubted the accolade.
"They were generally young, wore the sword vertically and kept a stiff upper lip. They gamed and fought and were a portion of the train of any fas.h.i.+onable beauty."
At the commencement of the revolution many of the Chevaliers joined the army of the emigres, enlisted or dispersed. The few who survive can yet be recognized by their military air; almost all of them, however, have the gout.
When any n.o.ble family had many children, one was dedicated to the church; at first some benefice, barely sufficient to pay for the expenses of education, was obtained, and ultimately he became Prince, Abbe, or Bishop, as circ.u.mstances dictated.
This was the real Abbe; but many young men who disliked the perils of the Chevalier, called themselves Abbes when they came to Paris.
Nothing was so convenient, for, with a slight change of dress, they could appear as priests and the equals of anybody. There was a great advantage in this for every house had its Abbe
They were generally small, round, well dressed and agreeable. They were gourmands, active and pleasant. The few that remain have became very devout and very fat.
None could be more comfortable than a rich prior or abbot. They had no superiors and nothing to do. If there be a long peace, the priors will turn up again, but unless there be a great change in the ecclesiastical organization, the Abbes are lost for ever.
MISCELLANY.--WINE.
"Monsieur," said an old marquise to me one day, "which do you like best, Burgundy or Bordeaux?" "Madame," said I, "I have such a pa.s.sion for examining into the matter, that I always postpone the decision a week."
STRAWBERRIES.
The Count de la Place recommends that strawberries should always be dressed with orange juice.
JUDGMENT.
"He is not a man of mind," said the Count de M---- "Why?" "Ah! he does not eat pudding a la Richelieu, nor cutlets a la Soubise."
RAISINS.
"Take a raisin--"
"No I thank you; I do not like wine in pills."
A DAY WITH THE BERNARDINES.
It was about one A. M., on a fine summer night, and I set out after having been serenaded by many who took an interest in us.
This was about 1782.
I then was the chief of a troop of amateur musicians All of whom were young and healthy.
"Monsieur," said the abbe of Saint Sulpice to me one day, and he drew me into a window recess, "you would enjoy yourself very much if you come some day to play for us at Saint Bernard's. The Saints would be delighted."
I accepted the offer at once, for it seemed to promise us an agreeable evening. I nodded a.s.sent, and all were amazed.
Annuit, et totum nutu tremefecit olympum.
The Physiology of Taste Part 42
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The Physiology of Taste Part 42 summary
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