In The Hands Of A Chef Part 17

9. Place a lamb shank, a piece of fennel, and a piece of onion on each plate. Ladle some sauce over all, including the fennel and onion, and serve immediately. Offer the extra sauce on the side. Place a lamb shank, a piece of fennel, and a piece of onion on each plate. Ladle some sauce over all, including the fennel and onion, and serve immediately. Offer the extra sauce on the side.

Grilled Rosemary-Stuffed Lamb Shanks A spectacular variation on this recipe is to braise the shanks and refrigerate them, then grill them a day or two later. The shanks acquire all the rich flavor of braising, with the wonderful addition of a smoky, crusty exterior. The technique can be applied to just about any braised meat that is either still on the bone or in large chunks.

1. Braise the shanks exactly as in the recipe, but save the basil for later. Don't roast the fennel or onion-they'll be grilled too. Braise the shanks exactly as in the recipe, but save the basil for later. Don't roast the fennel or onion-they'll be grilled too.

2. Prepare a medium fire in a grill (see page 265 if you're unfamiliar with how to do this). You should be able to hold your hand near the grilling surface for 4 seconds before you have to pull it away. Prepare a medium fire in a grill (see page 265 if you're unfamiliar with how to do this). You should be able to hold your hand near the grilling surface for 4 seconds before you have to pull it away.

3. While the grill is heating, remove the shanks from their braising juices and pat dry. Reheat the juices, adding the basil. If the braising juice is too thin for a sauce, boil it for a few minutes until it reaches the desired consistency. Set aside. Reheat before serving. While the grill is heating, remove the shanks from their braising juices and pat dry. Reheat the juices, adding the basil. If the braising juice is too thin for a sauce, boil it for a few minutes until it reaches the desired consistency. Set aside. Reheat before serving.

4. Sprinkle the shanks liberally with salt and pepper and brush with oil. Grill on all sides until heated through and lightly charred. Push the shanks to the edge of the grill to keep warm while you grill the vegetables. Sprinkle the shanks liberally with salt and pepper and brush with oil. Grill on all sides until heated through and lightly charred. Push the shanks to the edge of the grill to keep warm while you grill the vegetables.

5. Toss the fennel and onions with 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil and season with salt and pepper (no Pernod in this variation). Grill until lightly charred and tender. It may be necessary to move the vegetables off to the side (off the direct heat of the coals) to cook them through without burning. Toss the fennel and onions with 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil and season with salt and pepper (no Pernod in this variation). Grill until lightly charred and tender. It may be necessary to move the vegetables off to the side (off the direct heat of the coals) to cook them through without burning.

6. To serve, arrange the grilled shanks, fennel, and onions on a large platter. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables. Serve immediately. To serve, arrange the grilled shanks, fennel, and onions on a large platter. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables. Serve immediately.

Roast Leg of Lamb with Mustard Crumbs Every family has at least one mistaken culinary tradition that becomes enshrined in memory. I know people who only enjoy turkey dry or macaroni and cheese out of a box because that's what they ate at the table of their childhood. I was well into my college years before I discovered that leg of lamb-a favorite holiday preparation of my grandmother-didn't automatically turn gray when roasted. This recipe, which takes its inspiration from a French family cla.s.sic, is a much juicier preparation. A marinade of olives, rosemary, sage, and thyme flavors the meat, while a crumb and Dijon mustard crust helps the leg stay moist. one mistaken culinary tradition that becomes enshrined in memory. I know people who only enjoy turkey dry or macaroni and cheese out of a box because that's what they ate at the table of their childhood. I was well into my college years before I discovered that leg of lamb-a favorite holiday preparation of my grandmother-didn't automatically turn gray when roasted. This recipe, which takes its inspiration from a French family cla.s.sic, is a much juicier preparation. A marinade of olives, rosemary, sage, and thyme flavors the meat, while a crumb and Dijon mustard crust helps the leg stay moist.

Leg of lamb makes great cold leftovers. Accompany it with horseradish, Dijon mustard, hot mango chutney, or Vinegared Grapes (page 288).

MAKES 6 TO 8 ENTReE SERVINGS.

One 6- to 8-pound bone-in leg of lamb MARINADE.

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 shallots, finely chopped cup chopped fresh rosemary cup chopped fresh thyme 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage cup finely chopped pitted Gaeta olives cup extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil CRUMB MIXTURE.

cup Dijon mustard, plus more as necessary 2 cups dry bread crumbs 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper DO AHEAD: Marinate the lamb for 4 hours; longer won't hurt. Marinate the lamb for 4 hours; longer won't hurt.

1. Trim the lamb leg of excess fat and membrane. Mix the marinade ingredients together in a small bowl. Set the lamb in a large nonreactive container and smear it with the marinade. Refrigerate for 4 hours. Trim the lamb leg of excess fat and membrane. Mix the marinade ingredients together in a small bowl. Set the lamb in a large nonreactive container and smear it with the marinade. Refrigerate for 4 hours.

2. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

3. Remove the lamb from the refrigerator and season generously all over with salt and pepper (do not sc.r.a.pe off the marinade). Set the leg on a rack in a roasting pan. Remove the lamb from the refrigerator and season generously all over with salt and pepper (do not sc.r.a.pe off the marinade). Set the leg on a rack in a roasting pan.

4. Roast for 10 minutes at 450F, then reduce the heat to 350F. Roast for 30 minutes, then drizzle with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Let the lamb roast for another 30 minutes. Roast for 10 minutes at 450F, then reduce the heat to 350F. Roast for 30 minutes, then drizzle with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Let the lamb roast for another 30 minutes.

5. Remove the lamb from the oven. Brush the surface with the mustard. Press the bread crumbs onto the mustard. Drizzle with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Return the lamb to the oven and roast until the bread crumbs are toasty and the meat has reached the desired degree of doneness, about 30 minutes for medium-rate. Bear in mind this is only an approximation: the actual time depends on your oven and the size of the lamb leg. To check, insert an instant-read digital thermometer into the thickest part of the lamb leg, taking care not to let the tip touch the bone. For rare meat, remove the leg from the oven when it reaches 115 to 120F; for medium-rare, 125 to 130F; for medium, 130 to 140F. Although temperatures may seem a little bit low, the lamb will continue to cook after you've removed it from the oven, and the internal temperature will rise another 5 to 10 degrees during the resting period. Remove the lamb from the oven. Brush the surface with the mustard. Press the bread crumbs onto the mustard. Drizzle with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Return the lamb to the oven and roast until the bread crumbs are toasty and the meat has reached the desired degree of doneness, about 30 minutes for medium-rate. Bear in mind this is only an approximation: the actual time depends on your oven and the size of the lamb leg. To check, insert an instant-read digital thermometer into the thickest part of the lamb leg, taking care not to let the tip touch the bone. For rare meat, remove the leg from the oven when it reaches 115 to 120F; for medium-rare, 125 to 130F; for medium, 130 to 140F. Although temperatures may seem a little bit low, the lamb will continue to cook after you've removed it from the oven, and the internal temperature will rise another 5 to 10 degrees during the resting period.

6. Remove the lamb from the oven and let rest for 15 minutes. Remove the lamb from the oven and let rest for 15 minutes.

7. Transfer the lamb to a platter and carve at the table. Transfer the lamb to a platter and carve at the table.

Roast Rack of Lamb with Romaine Salad and Anchovy Dressing The expense of rack of lamb usually elevates it to special-dinner status, with all the attendant anxiety about breaking away from anything but tried-and-true approaches. This recipe offers a great alternative to the cla.s.sic Dijon mustard sauce and fancy baby vegetable garnishes so often seen with lamb racks. When my son was young, he referred to rack chops as "steak on a stick," which jogged me into thinking about how I would handle rack of lamb if I had the same freedom to play around with seasonings that I did with kebabs. An old-fas.h.i.+oned Italian anchovy marinade for grilled lamb seemed particularly appealing. Why not go even one step further and serve the lamb with a Romaine salad dressed with anchovy vinaigrette and Parmesan croutons? The dish is filled with big appealing flavors and is a lot easier than the usual way of handling racks. lamb usually elevates it to special-dinner status, with all the attendant anxiety about breaking away from anything but tried-and-true approaches. This recipe offers a great alternative to the cla.s.sic Dijon mustard sauce and fancy baby vegetable garnishes so often seen with lamb racks. When my son was young, he referred to rack chops as "steak on a stick," which jogged me into thinking about how I would handle rack of lamb if I had the same freedom to play around with seasonings that I did with kebabs. An old-fas.h.i.+oned Italian anchovy marinade for grilled lamb seemed particularly appealing. Why not go even one step further and serve the lamb with a Romaine salad dressed with anchovy vinaigrette and Parmesan croutons? The dish is filled with big appealing flavors and is a lot easier than the usual way of handling racks.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

MARINADE.

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 6 anchovies, rinsed and finely chopped 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest 2 tablespoons dried mint cup vegetable oil

Two 7- or 8-bone racks of lamb, trimmed to leave a thin layer of fat, chine bone removed so you can cut between the chops 1 medium red onion, sliced into -inch-thick rounds cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Eight -inch-thick slices rustic bread 1 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons freshly grated Parmesan 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 garlic clove, minced and then mashed with a pinch of salt to a paste 1 teaspoon minced shallots 6 anchovies, rinsed and finely chopped teaspoon Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 head Romaine lettuce, washed, dried, and cut crosswise into strips 3 inches wide 2 ounces Parmesan cheese shavings 1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges DO AHEAD: Marinate the lamb. Marinate the lamb.

1. Mix the marinade ingredients together in a small bowl. Set the lamb racks in a nonreactive container and smear the meat with the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours, or up to a day. Mix the marinade ingredients together in a small bowl. Set the lamb racks in a nonreactive container and smear the meat with the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours, or up to a day.

2. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

3. Toss the onions with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer in a small roasting pan and roast until brown around the edges and tender, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside. Toss the onions with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer in a small roasting pan and roast until brown around the edges and tender, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside.

4. To make the croutons, lay the bread slices in a single layer on a sheet pan. Brush each slice with teaspoon of the olive oil and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the Parmesan cheese. When the onions are done, bake the croutons for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and the bread is toasted. Set aside. Leave the oven on. To make the croutons, lay the bread slices in a single layer on a sheet pan. Brush each slice with teaspoon of the olive oil and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the Parmesan cheese. When the onions are done, bake the croutons for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and the bread is toasted. Set aside. Leave the oven on.

5. To sear the lamb racks, heat 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil in each of two large ovenproof saute pans over medium-high heat. (If you don't have two large ovenproof pans, sear the racks individually, then transfer to a large roasting pan that has been heating in the oven.) Season the lamb all over with salt and pepper. (Don't sc.r.a.pe off the marinade.) Add the racks to the pans, meat side down, and sear until brown, about 4 minutes. To sear the lamb racks, heat 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil in each of two large ovenproof saute pans over medium-high heat. (If you don't have two large ovenproof pans, sear the racks individually, then transfer to a large roasting pan that has been heating in the oven.) Season the lamb all over with salt and pepper. (Don't sc.r.a.pe off the marinade.) Add the racks to the pans, meat side down, and sear until brown, about 4 minutes.

6. Turn the meat, then transfer the pans to the oven. Roast until an instant-read digital thermometer inserted in the center of the rack reads 125F for medium-rare (120F for rare). Start checking after 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest. Return the onions to the oven to warm while you make the salad. Turn the meat, then transfer the pans to the oven. Roast until an instant-read digital thermometer inserted in the center of the rack reads 125F for medium-rare (120F for rare). Start checking after 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest. Return the onions to the oven to warm while you make the salad.

7. To make the dressing, combine the garlic, shallots, anchovies, and mustard in a small bowl. Whisk in the red wine vinegar. Whisk in the remaining cup olive oil in a thin, steady stream until the vinaigrette is smooth and emulsified. Season with salt and pepper. Toss the lettuce in a large bowl with the vinaigrette. Taste, then season with salt and pepper if necessary. To make the dressing, combine the garlic, shallots, anchovies, and mustard in a small bowl. Whisk in the red wine vinegar. Whisk in the remaining cup olive oil in a thin, steady stream until the vinaigrette is smooth and emulsified. Season with salt and pepper. Toss the lettuce in a large bowl with the vinaigrette. Taste, then season with salt and pepper if necessary.

8. Arrange the salad on a platter or individual plates. Sprinkle with the Parmesan shavings. Slice the lamb into individual chops and arrange in front of the salad. Drape the salad with the roasted onions and garnish with the croutons. Add a lemon wedge to each plate and serve immediately. Arrange the salad on a platter or individual plates. Sprinkle with the Parmesan shavings. Slice the lamb into individual chops and arrange in front of the salad. Drape the salad with the roasted onions and garnish with the croutons. Add a lemon wedge to each plate and serve immediately.

Thin-Sliced Calves' Liver with Greens, Dijon Mustard Sauce, and Vinegared Grapes Calves' liver has a mild, delicate taste overlaying a rich texture, a true connoisseur's treat. Sharp or acidic elements, like the sweet-and-sour mustard sauce and vinegared grapes of this recipe, balance the richness. Beef liver, on the other hand, is quite strong, with a taste that's well ... livery. livery. You shouldn't have any problem distinguis.h.i.+ng the latter from the former-calves' liver (sometimes called "veal liver") is quite pale; beef liver is a deep purple. Don't be fooled by "baby beef liver, " which is just another name for liver from a mature steer. You shouldn't have any problem distinguis.h.i.+ng the latter from the former-calves' liver (sometimes called "veal liver") is quite pale; beef liver is a deep purple. Don't be fooled by "baby beef liver, " which is just another name for liver from a mature steer.

This preparation calls for first soaking the liver in milk. The milk sweetens the meat by purging it of any remaining blood MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

1 pounds very fresh calves' liver, outer membrane removed and sliced inch thick 2 cups milk Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper About cup unbleached all-purpose flour for dredging cup vegetable oil, as needed 4 to 5 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, as needed 8 cups lightly packed greens, such as arugula, watercress, or spinach, washed, dried, and stems removed as necessary 2 shallots, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon honey 4 to 5 tablespoons high-quality red wine vinegar 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 4 cups high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 2 cups (see page 32) 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard Vinegared Grapes (optional; recipe follows) DO AHEAD: Make the Vinegared Grapes. Make the Vinegared Grapes.

1. Soak the liver slices in the milk in the refrigerator for 1 hour to remove any remaining blood. Soak the liver slices in the milk in the refrigerator for 1 hour to remove any remaining blood.

2. Preheat the oven to 200F. Preheat the oven to 200F.

3. Drain the liver and pat dry. Season on both sides with salt and pepper, then dredge in the flour. Tap off any excess. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large nonstick saute pan over medium-high heat. As soon as the oil is hot, add as many slices of liver as will fit in the pan without crowding. Unless you have an exceptionally large saute pan, you'll need to cook the liver in two batches. Brown the slices on one side, about 2 minutes, then flip, add 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter, and brown the other side, also for 2 minutes. The liver will be between medium and medium-rare. Transfer the cooked slices to a platter and put the platter in the warm oven. Wipe out the pan, or leftover bits of flour will burn as the new arrivals start to brown. Add more oil before beginning the second batch, and then more b.u.t.ter after flipping the slices. Drain the liver and pat dry. Season on both sides with salt and pepper, then dredge in the flour. Tap off any excess. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large nonstick saute pan over medium-high heat. As soon as the oil is hot, add as many slices of liver as will fit in the pan without crowding. Unless you have an exceptionally large saute pan, you'll need to cook the liver in two batches. Brown the slices on one side, about 2 minutes, then flip, add 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter, and brown the other side, also for 2 minutes. The liver will be between medium and medium-rare. Transfer the cooked slices to a platter and put the platter in the warm oven. Wipe out the pan, or leftover bits of flour will burn as the new arrivals start to brown. Add more oil before beginning the second batch, and then more b.u.t.ter after flipping the slices.

4. Wipe the pan clean after all the liver is cooked, then add 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter to the pan. Add the greens, season with salt and pepper, and stir them about the pan until they wilt, about 2 minutes. Arrange the greens on the platter with the liver, and return the platter to the oven. Wipe the pan clean after all the liver is cooked, then add 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter to the pan. Add the greens, season with salt and pepper, and stir them about the pan until they wilt, about 2 minutes. Arrange the greens on the platter with the liver, and return the platter to the oven.

5. To make the sauce, lower the heat to medium and add 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter to the pan. As soon as it melts, add the shallots and cook until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the honey and 4 tablespoons of the red wine vinegar and continue cooking until the liquid reduces to a glaze, less than a minute. Add the chicken stock and cook until it reduces to cup, 15 to 20 minutes. To make the sauce, lower the heat to medium and add 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter to the pan. As soon as it melts, add the shallots and cook until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the honey and 4 tablespoons of the red wine vinegar and continue cooking until the liquid reduces to a glaze, less than a minute. Add the chicken stock and cook until it reduces to cup, 15 to 20 minutes.

6. Whisk in the mustard and season with salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the liver and greens and serve immediately. Whisk in the mustard and season with salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the liver and greens and serve immediately.

Variations Instead of the sweet-and-sour mustard sauce, try serving the liver with Brown Bay b.u.t.ter sauce (page 224). This recipe also works well with veal scaloppine. Don't bother soaking the veal in milk before sauteing it.

Vinegared Grapes These grapes make a great cold complement to rich meats such as liver or venison, and are an unusual foil for a rich cheese like Stilton or Gorgonzola. They can easily fill the gap when you don't want to make a sauce or need a cold condiment for a picnic. Leftovers will keep for a week if refrigerated. cold complement to rich meats such as liver or venison, and are an unusual foil for a rich cheese like Stilton or Gorgonzola. They can easily fill the gap when you don't want to make a sauce or need a cold condiment for a picnic. Leftovers will keep for a week if refrigerated.

MAKES 2 CUPS.

cup high-quality white wine vinegar cup sugar teaspoon mustard seeds 1 bay leaf teaspoon crushed coriander seeds teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 1 shallot, minced 2 cups red grapes, cut in half and seeds removed 1. Combine all the ingredients except the grapes in a nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer for 2 minutes. Combine all the ingredients except the grapes in a nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer for 2 minutes.

2. Add the grapes and simmer for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Chill, then serve as a relish. Add the grapes and simmer for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Chill, then serve as a relish.

Fried Rabbit in Hazelnut Crumbs with Peaches Serve this special-occasion dish to guests who've never tried rabbit. The aroma of its spectacular flavors from the Italian Riviera-lemon zest, basil, peaches, and ginger-and golden hazelnut crust is almost impossible to resist. Despite the usual comparison, rabbit has a stronger, more complex taste than chicken, although it's still quite mild. The flesh is leaner than that of chicken, which makes it easy to overcook when sauteed, but the hazelnut crust in this preparation keeps the meat moist. guests who've never tried rabbit. The aroma of its spectacular flavors from the Italian Riviera-lemon zest, basil, peaches, and ginger-and golden hazelnut crust is almost impossible to resist. Despite the usual comparison, rabbit has a stronger, more complex taste than chicken, although it's still quite mild. The flesh is leaner than that of chicken, which makes it easy to overcook when sauteed, but the hazelnut crust in this preparation keeps the meat moist.

This dish works perfectly well without a sauce, but I had to include one. A sauce made with rabbit parts is such a rare treat that I always take the extra step, making it a day ahead if necessary. Fresh rabbit is almost always sold packed in Cryovac in this country. If there's a butcher on hand, he may be willing to cut the rabbit in pieces for you as described in Step 1, but if not I've included instructions for cutting it up.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

2 rabbits (about 3 pounds each)

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest cup chopped fresh basil 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger 6 tablespoons vegetable oil About cup unbleached all-purpose flour for dredging 1 extra-large egg cup dry bread crumbs cup finely chopped lightly toasted hazelnuts Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 small ripe peaches 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil cup balsamic vinegar 2 teaspoons sugar Riesling Sauce (recipe follows; optional) DO AHEAD: Marinate the rabbit for 12 hours. The peaches can be prepared a day ahead and reheated before serving (as can the sauce, if you decide to make it). The legs can be breaded 3 hours in advance. Marinate the rabbit for 12 hours. The peaches can be prepared a day ahead and reheated before serving (as can the sauce, if you decide to make it). The legs can be breaded 3 hours in advance.

1. Have your butcher cut each rabbit into the following pieces: 2 forelegs, 2 back legs, 2 loins trimmed of all silver skin, and the carca.s.s. If you have to do it yourself, think of the process as similar to removing the leg/thigh pieces and wings from a chicken. In addition, you need to remove and trim the loins. The loins are the two thick strips of meat that run along the backbone. A sharp boning knife with its thin blade makes the task easier than using the wide blade of a chef's knife. Be sure to remove all the silver skin from the loins. Set the forelegs and carca.s.ses aside if you're going to make the sauce. Have your butcher cut each rabbit into the following pieces: 2 forelegs, 2 back legs, 2 loins trimmed of all silver skin, and the carca.s.s. If you have to do it yourself, think of the process as similar to removing the leg/thigh pieces and wings from a chicken. In addition, you need to remove and trim the loins. The loins are the two thick strips of meat that run along the backbone. A sharp boning knife with its thin blade makes the task easier than using the wide blade of a chef's knife. Be sure to remove all the silver skin from the loins. Set the forelegs and carca.s.ses aside if you're going to make the sauce.

2. Combine the lemon zest, basil, ginger, and 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a bowl large enough to comfortably accommodate the rabbit pieces. Toss the rabbit loins and back legs in the marinade, cover, and refrigerate for 12 hours. Combine the lemon zest, basil, ginger, and 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a bowl large enough to comfortably accommodate the rabbit pieces. Toss the rabbit loins and back legs in the marinade, cover, and refrigerate for 12 hours.

3. Remove the rabbit from the refrigerator. Put the flour in a medium bowl. Beat the egg with 1 teaspoon water in another medium bowl. Combine the bread crumbs and chopped hazelnuts in a large bowl. Season the back legs with salt and pepper and toss them in flour. Dip the legs in the egg and coat completely. Roll in the nut and crumb mixture. Remove the rabbit from the refrigerator. Put the flour in a medium bowl. Beat the egg with 1 teaspoon water in another medium bowl. Combine the bread crumbs and chopped hazelnuts in a large bowl. Season the back legs with salt and pepper and toss them in flour. Dip the legs in the egg and coat completely. Roll in the nut and crumb mixture.

4. Heat 4 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium-low heat. Add the back legs and cook on both sides until done, 10 to 15 minutes per side. The trick here is to cook the legs slowly so the crumb crust and rabbit meat finish more or less at the same time. At a higher temperature, you risk finis.h.i.+ng the crust when the rabbit meat is still quite rare. The crust should be a deep golden brown. Transfer the legs to a plate. Season the loins with salt and pepper (the loins do not have a crumb coating), sear on both sides, 5 to 8 minutes, and then cook to desired doneness. Heat 4 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium-low heat. Add the back legs and cook on both sides until done, 10 to 15 minutes per side. The trick here is to cook the legs slowly so the crumb crust and rabbit meat finish more or less at the same time. At a higher temperature, you risk finis.h.i.+ng the crust when the rabbit meat is still quite rare. The crust should be a deep golden brown. Transfer the legs to a plate. Season the loins with salt and pepper (the loins do not have a crumb coating), sear on both sides, 5 to 8 minutes, and then cook to desired doneness.

5. Meanwhile, as soon as you get the rabbit legs into the pan, start the peaches. Split the peaches and remove the pits. Heat the olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the peaches, skin side down, and cook until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add teaspoon pepper, the balsamic vinegar, and sugar. Flip and cook on the second side until browned, about another 4 minutes, then remove from the heat. If you're not going to use them immediately, keep them warm in a low oven (200F) until ready to serve. Meanwhile, as soon as you get the rabbit legs into the pan, start the peaches. Split the peaches and remove the pits. Heat the olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the peaches, skin side down, and cook until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add teaspoon pepper, the balsamic vinegar, and sugar. Flip and cook on the second side until browned, about another 4 minutes, then remove from the heat. If you're not going to use them immediately, keep them warm in a low oven (200F) until ready to serve.

6. To serve, slice the loins against the grain into diagonal pieces inch thick. Arrange 2 peach halves, a leg, and a sliced loin on each plate. Drizzle with the sauce, if using, and serve immediately. To serve, slice the loins against the grain into diagonal pieces inch thick. Arrange 2 peach halves, a leg, and a sliced loin on each plate. Drizzle with the sauce, if using, and serve immediately.

Riesling Sauce Although the rabbit can be served without a sauce, I'm the sort of obsessive cook who can't bear to discard perfectly good rabbit parts-not when I know they can be turned into a great sauce. Put the main pieces of the rabbit in the marinade, reserving the forelegs and carca.s.ses for the sauce. Either make the sauce then and refrigerate it, or wait to make it the next day. without a sauce, I'm the sort of obsessive cook who can't bear to discard perfectly good rabbit parts-not when I know they can be turned into a great sauce. Put the main pieces of the rabbit in the marinade, reserving the forelegs and carca.s.ses for the sauce. Either make the sauce then and refrigerate it, or wait to make it the next day.

MAKES ABOUT CUP.

2 rabbit forelegs 2 rabbit carca.s.ses Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 4 shallots, thinly sliced celery stalk, chopped medium carrot, peeled and chopped 1 cup Riesling (or 1 cup dry white wine in which you've dissolved 1 tablespoon honey) 4 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 8 cups high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 4 cups (see page 32) 1. Season the forelegs and carca.s.ses with salt and pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Sear the carca.s.ses and forelegs. Transfer to a plate. Season the forelegs and carca.s.ses with salt and pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Sear the carca.s.ses and forelegs. Transfer to a plate.

2. Add the shallots, celery, and carrots to the pan and cook until they just begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Return the rabbit pieces to the pan. Add the wine and continue cooking until it reduces to a glaze, about 20 minutes. Add the shallots, celery, and carrots to the pan and cook until they just begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Return the rabbit pieces to the pan. Add the wine and continue cooking until it reduces to a glaze, about 20 minutes.

3. Add the chicken stock and reduce it until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, to about cup, about 45 minutes. Remove the sauce from the heat and strain it. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate if using it the next day, then reheat before serving; or keep it warm if serving soon. Add the chicken stock and reduce it until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, to about cup, about 45 minutes. Remove the sauce from the heat and strain it. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate if using it the next day, then reheat before serving; or keep it warm if serving soon.

Sweet-and-Sour Braised Rabbit with Chocolate The use of chocolate in savory cooking almost always calls to mind Mexican savory cooking almost always calls to mind Mexican mole mole, but southern Italians have also used chocolate and spicy chiles to flavor meat dishes. Chocolate thickens and enriches the sauce without sweetening it. My recipe combines the best of the New World-chocolate and chile pepper flakes-with the Old-juniper berries and pancetta. Serve with wide noodles, spaetzle, or rice.

When purchasing the rabbits, ask your butcher to cut each of them into 6 pieces, as described in Step 1. The rabbit is wonderful the day it's made, but if you refrigerate the rabbit pieces in the braising liquid for a day before serving, the meat will absorb more of the flavor of the chocolate and chile. Reheat, covered, on top of the stove over low heat.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

2 rabbits (about 3 pounds each) teaspoon hot red pepper flakes teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspice teaspoon mace About cup unbleached all-purpose flour for dredging Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup vegetable oil, plus more if needed pound thickly sliced pancetta, chopped into -inch dice 1 small onion, cut into -inch dice 12 shallots, peeled 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 teaspoon tomato paste 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 5 cups high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 2 cups (see page 32) 2 tablespoons sugar 1 cup Marsala cup red wine vinegar, or more to taste tablespoon crushed fennel seeds tablespoon crushed juniper berries teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 bay leaf 1 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped 1. You can ask the butcher to cut up the rabbits for you when you purchase them; otherwise, it's no more difficult than cutting up a chicken. Remove the front and rear legs of one of the rabbits where the joints meet the body. A thin-bladed boning knife is the ideal tool for this task, but you can use just about any sharp knife. Remove the neck and discard, or use for stock. Using a cleaver or heavy chef's knife, cut the body in half crosswise. You will now have 6 pieces-2 hind legs, 2 forelegs, and 2 halves of the body. Repeat with the remaining rabbit. You can ask the butcher to cut up the rabbits for you when you purchase them; otherwise, it's no more difficult than cutting up a chicken. Remove the front and rear legs of one of the rabbits where the joints meet the body. A thin-bladed boning knife is the ideal tool for this task, but you can use just about any sharp knife. Remove the neck and discard, or use for stock. Using a cleaver or heavy chef's knife, cut the body in half crosswise. You will now have 6 pieces-2 hind legs, 2 forelegs, and 2 halves of the body. Repeat with the remaining rabbit.

2. Combine the red pepper flakes, cinnamon, allspice, mace, and flour in a large bowl. Sprinkle the rabbit pieces liberally with salt and pepper, then toss them in the seasoned flour. Heat 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium heat and brown the rabbit pieces on all sides. You will have to do this in a couple of batches-don't crowd the pan. Place the browned rabbit in a large Dutch oven or cast-iron ca.s.serole. If the saute pan is covered with blackened bits of flour, wipe it out and add another few tablespoons of vegetable oil. Combine the red pepper flakes, cinnamon, allspice, mace, and flour in a large bowl. Sprinkle the rabbit pieces liberally with salt and pepper, then toss them in the seasoned flour. Heat 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium heat and brown the rabbit pieces on all sides. You will have to do this in a couple of batches-don't crowd the pan. Place the browned rabbit in a large Dutch oven or cast-iron ca.s.serole. If the saute pan is covered with blackened bits of flour, wipe it out and add another few tablespoons of vegetable oil.

3. Add the pancetta to the saute pan and cook over medium heat until the fat turns translucent and starts to render, about 1 minutes. Add the onion, shallots, and garlic and stir them about until they start to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook for 1 more minute. Transfer the vegetables to the pot with the rabbit. Add the pancetta to the saute pan and cook over medium heat until the fat turns translucent and starts to render, about 1 minutes. Add the onion, shallots, and garlic and stir them about until they start to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook for 1 more minute. Transfer the vegetables to the pot with the rabbit.

4. Deglaze the saute pan with the chicken stock: bring the stock to a boil, sc.r.a.ping the bottom of the pan with a spoon to dissolve any crispy bits in the hot liquid. Pour over the rabbit. Deglaze the saute pan with the chicken stock: bring the stock to a boil, sc.r.a.ping the bottom of the pan with a spoon to dissolve any crispy bits in the hot liquid. Pour over the rabbit.

5. Melt the sugar in a nonreactive small saucepan over medium heat. Watch the sugar closely, and remove it from the heat as soon as it caramelizes. Stir in the Marsala and 2 tablespoons of the red wine vinegar in a slow stream (if you add the wine too fast, it will splatter). As soon as the liquid is blended with the caramelized sugar, pour the mixture into the pot with the rabbit. Melt the sugar in a nonreactive small saucepan over medium heat. Watch the sugar closely, and remove it from the heat as soon as it caramelizes. Stir in the Marsala and 2 tablespoons of the red wine vinegar in a slow stream (if you add the wine too fast, it will splatter). As soon as the liquid is blended with the caramelized sugar, pour the mixture into the pot with the rabbit.

6. Add the fennel seeds, juniper berries, cayenne pepper, and bay leaf to the pot and bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Cover and cook until the rabbit is tender but not falling off the bone, about 30 minutes. Add the fennel seeds, juniper berries, cayenne pepper, and bay leaf to the pot and bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Cover and cook until the rabbit is tender but not falling off the bone, about 30 minutes.

7. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200F. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200F.

8. Transfer the rabbit to a heatproof platter and place in the oven. Reduce the braising liquid over high heat until it's thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Lower the heat to medium, add the chocolate and the remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar, and stir until the chocolate melts completely. Taste-the flavor should be a balance of sweet and sour. Add more vinegar if necessary. Discard the bay leaf, and season with salt and pepper. Transfer the rabbit to a heatproof platter and place in the oven. Reduce the braising liquid over high heat until it's thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Lower the heat to medium, add the chocolate and the remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar, and stir until the chocolate melts completely. Taste-the flavor should be a balance of sweet and sour. Add more vinegar if necessary. Discard the bay leaf, and season with salt and pepper.

9. Ladle a light coating of sauce over the rabbit. Present the platter at the table and offer the remaining sauce on the side. Ladle a light coating of sauce over the rabbit. Present the platter at the table and offer the remaining sauce on the side.

Peppered Venison with Sherry Sauce and Dried Fruit Chutney Venison is a great argument for keeping things simple. Few cooked meats are as capable of making as striking a visual impression as three or four slices of unadorned venison on a plate. Venison's low fat content almost guarantees that it is prepared only rare or medium-rare, which preserves its deep port-like color. Even without its rich, meatier-than-meat flavor, venison's color would earn it a billing on many menus. This recipe involves a simple oil-based marinade that helps to form a peppery crust when the venison is cooked. Pedro Jimenez, a fine, slightly sweet sherry, long a European tradition in sauces for game meats, adds a fruity note to the sauce. The Dried Fruit Chutney elaborates on this theme and adds a lovely visual component to the dish. for keeping things simple. Few cooked meats are as capable of making as striking a visual impression as three or four slices of unadorned venison on a plate. Venison's low fat content almost guarantees that it is prepared only rare or medium-rare, which preserves its deep port-like color. Even without its rich, meatier-than-meat flavor, venison's color would earn it a billing on many menus. This recipe involves a simple oil-based marinade that helps to form a peppery crust when the venison is cooked. Pedro Jimenez, a fine, slightly sweet sherry, long a European tradition in sauces for game meats, adds a fruity note to the sauce. The Dried Fruit Chutney elaborates on this theme and adds a lovely visual component to the dish.

Cooked venison will keep for several days, but it's so lean that a quick sear in a saute pan is as much as I dare reheat it for fear of overcooking it. I'm quite content to eat leftover venison cold, accompanied by Herbal Mayonnaise (page 14) or some of the cold chutney.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

SVENISON.

Four 6-ounce venison steaks from the leg or loin 2 tablespoons cracked black pepper 1 shallot, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage cup vegetable oil SHERRY SAUCE.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 shallots, finely chopped teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 2 juniper berries, crushed 1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage cup Pedro Jimenez or other high-quality sweet sherry 4 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 8 cups high-quality low-sodium canned chicken broth, reduced to 4 cups (see page 32)

teaspoon sherry vinegar 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Dried Fruit Chutney (recipe follows; optional) DO AHEAD: Marinate the venison for 12 hours. The Dried Fruit Chutney can be prepared up to 10 days in advance. Marinate the venison for 12 hours. The Dried Fruit Chutney can be prepared up to 10 days in advance.