Jane Grigson's Fish Book Part 30

The pride of the Abbazia di Loreto, an eighteenth-century monastery of curves and colour at the back of Vesuvius, is the pharmacy. The original 300 majolica jars stand elegantly on the shelves. Even more elegant is the mortar, placed in the centre of one wall. I suppose that mortars were the main piece of equipment in a pharmacy in those days. This one takes the form of a hollowed out Corinthian capital decorated with gold, and mounted on a waist-high column of pink marble. How much time people had then, how many people were needed about the place, how hard and steadily they worked.

Taramasalata belongs to that pestle and mortar life, which survives, in part at least, in Greece and Turkey still. It is a cream salad, like the tahina tahina salads on salads on p. 43 p. 43. And I'm sure it wouldn't be as popular with us as it is, if electric beaters and liquidizers hadn't come to save work in so many kitchens. And yet, when we first ate Taramasalata twenty years ago, the head waiter declared that it had been made by hand: 'Downstairs in the kitchen. Here.' I believe him now I was sceptical at the time because however I vary proportions and method, I never quite achieve the cool, granular texture of his handmade Taramasalata. But it is still delicious and worth making: Serves 6125 g (4 oz) tarama tarama (salted grey mullet roe) (salted grey mullet roe) or or smoked cod roe smoked cod roe1 -cm ( -inch) thick slice of bread1 clove garlic, crushed or or 1 tablespoon chopped onion 1 tablespoon chopped onion300450 ml (1015 fl oz) olive or or corn oil corn oiljuice of 12 lemonsblack olives or or capers capers If you are using a piece of cod's roe, remove the skin first. Soak tarama tarama or cod's roe in water for an hour or two to abate the saltiness. Moisten the bread with a little water so that it turns to a thickish paste (cut the crusts off first), then put it into the blender with garlic or onion, and enough oil to keep the mixture moving. Gradually add the or cod's roe in water for an hour or two to abate the saltiness. Moisten the bread with a little water so that it turns to a thickish paste (cut the crusts off first), then put it into the blender with garlic or onion, and enough oil to keep the mixture moving. Gradually add the tarama tarama or roe, and the oil, alternately to the blender. Should the mixture become unworkably stiff, put in a spoonful or two of water. The amount of oil required depends on your taste and the consistency of the Taramasalata. Finally, season with lemon juice. or roe, and the oil, alternately to the blender. Should the mixture become unworkably stiff, put in a spoonful or two of water. The amount of oil required depends on your taste and the consistency of the Taramasalata. Finally, season with lemon juice.

If you intend to use an electric beater it is a good idea to start off with an egg yolk. Beat it with a little lemon juice, then add the bread, garlic or onion, and roe, gradually in small amounts, lubricating the mixture with olive oil or corn oil. This mayonnaise technique ensures that the oil doesn't separate at all from the mixture.

Serve on a dish, well-chilled, and garnished with black olives. Thin toast or bread go with it. Taramasalata is also good when served in small pre-cooked pastry boats or tartlets and decorated with capers. Make sure the pastry is thin and crisp, and don't put the Taramasalata into it more than an hour or two before the meal.

BIBLIOGRAPHY.

American Heritage Cook Book, London, Penguin, 1967. The International Squid Book The International Squid Book, Berkeley, Calif., Aris Books, 1981. Les Recettes Secretes des Meilleurs Restaurants de France Les Recettes Secretes des Meilleurs Restaurants de France, Paris, Albin Michel, 1972. Acton, Eliza. Acton, Eliza. Modern Cookery Modern Cookery, 1845, reprinted London, Elek Books, 1966. Ali-Bab. Ali-Bab. Gastronomie Pratique Gastronomie Pratique, Maidenhead, McGraw-Hill, 1976. Beeton, Mrs Isabella. Beeton, Mrs Isabella. The Book of Household Management The Book of Household Management, 1859, facsimile of 1861 ed, London, Cape, 1968. Boni, Ada. Boni, Ada. Italian Regional Cooking Italian Regional Cooking, London, Thomas Nelson. Brennan, Jennifer. Brennan, Jennifer. Thai Cooking Thai Cooking, London, Futura, 1984. de Brillat-Savarin, Jean-Anthelme. de Brillat-Savarin, Jean-Anthelme. La Physiologie du Gout La Physiologie du Gout, Paris, A. Sauteret et Cie, 1826. Brissenden, Rosemary. Brissenden, Rosemary. South East Asian Food South East Asian Food, London, Penguin, 1970. Brown, Catherine. Brown, Catherine. Scottish Regional Recipes Scottish Regional Recipes, London, Penguin, 1983. Buckland, Frank. Buckland, Frank. The Natural History of British Fishes The Natural History of British Fishes, London, SPCK, 1883. Carew, Richard. Carew, Richard. The Survey of Cornwall The Survey of Cornwall, New York, Augustus M. Kelly, 1969. Caruana Galizia, Anne and Helen. Caruana Galizia, Anne and Helen. Recipes from Malta Recipes from Malta, 2nd ed, Valletta, 1974. Clark, Eleanor. Clark, Eleanor. The Oysters of Loqmariaquer The Oysters of Loqmariaquer, Chicago, University of Chicago Press, 1978. de Croze, Count Austin. de Croze, Count Austin. Les Plats Regionaux de France Les Plats Regionaux de France, Paris, 1928. Dallas, E. S. Dallas, E. S. Kettner's Book of the Table Kettner's Book of the Table, 1877, reprinted London, Centaur Press, 1968. David, Elizabeth. David, Elizabeth. Book of Mediterranean Food Book of Mediterranean Food, London, Penguin, 1987. -- -- Dried Herbs, Aromatics and Condiments Dried Herbs, Aromatics and Condiments -- -- English Potted Meats and Fish Pastes English Potted Meats and Fish Pastes, London, Elizabeth David, 1968. -- -- French Provincial Cooking French Provincial Cooking, London, Penguin, 1986. -- -- Italian Food Italian Food, London, Barrie & Jenkins, 1987. -- -- An Omelette and a Gla.s.s of Wine An Omelette and a Gla.s.s of Wine, London, Penguin, 1990. -- -- Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen, London, Penguin, 1987. Davidson, Alan. Davidson, Alan. Mediterranean Seafood Mediterranean Seafood, London, Penguin, 1987. -- -- North Atlantic Seafood North Atlantic Seafood, London, Penguin, 1980. -- -- Seafood of South-East Asia Seafood of South-East Asia, London, Macmillan, 1978. Day, Harvey. Day, Harvey. The Complete Book of Curries The Complete Book of Curries, Tadworth, Kaye & Ward, 1970. Dods, Meg. Dods, Meg. The Cook and Housewife's Manual The Cook and Housewife's Manual, London, Rosters, 1988. Dumas, Alexandre. Dumas, Alexandre. Dumas on Food: Selections from 'Le Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine' Dumas on Food: Selections from 'Le Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine', trans. A. & J. Davidson, London, Michael Joseph, 1979. Echevarria, Juan Dde. Echevarria, Juan Dde. Gastronomia Vasconum Gastronomia Vasconum, Bilbao, Eduardo Izquierdo. Erlandson, Keith. Erlandson, Keith. Home Smoking and Curing Home Smoking and Curing, London, Century, 1989. Escoffier, Auguste. Escoffier, Auguste. Guide Culinaire Guide Culinaire, trans as The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery, trans. H. L. Cracknell & R. J. Kaufmann, London, Heinemann, 1979. FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations), FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations), Atlas of the Living Resources of the Seas Atlas of the Living Resources of the Seas, London, HMSO, 1981. Farmer, f.a.n.n.y. Farmer, f.a.n.n.y. The f.a.n.n.y Farmer Cook Book The f.a.n.n.y Farmer Cook Book, London, Robert Hale, 1988. Field, Michael. Field, Michael. All Manner of Food All Manner of Food, ECCO Press, US, 1984. Frederick, J. George and Joyce, J. Frederick, J. George and Joyce, J. Long Island Sea Food Cook Book Long Island Sea Food Cook Book, New York, Dover Publications, 1971. Freeman, Bobby. Freeman, Bobby. Welsh Fish Welsh Fish, Dyfed, Lolfa, 1988. Frost, W. E. and Brown, M. E. Frost, W. E. and Brown, M. E. Trout Trout, London, Collins, 1967. Gla.s.se, Hannah. Gla.s.se, Hannah. The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, 1747, reprinted London, Prospect Books, 1983. Gray, Patience. Gray, Patience. Honey from a Weed Honey from a Weed, London, Prospect Books, 1986. de Gouy, Louis P. de Gouy, Louis P. The Gold Cook Book The Gold Cook Book, Greenberg, 1948. Hodgson, W. C. Hodgson, W. C. The Herring and Its Fishery The Herring and Its Fishery, London, Routledge, 1957. Jones, Evan. Jones, Evan. The World of Cheese The World of Cheese, New York, Alfred A. Knopf, 1976. Kennedy, Diana. Kennedy, Diana. Cuisines of Mexico Cuisines of Mexico, New York, Harper & Row, 1990. Kitchiner, Dr William. Kitchiner, Dr William. Apicius Redivivus, or The Cook's Oracle Apicius Redivivus, or The Cook's Oracle, 181743. Lang, George. Lang, George. The Cuisine of Hungary The Cuisine of Hungary, London, Penguin, 1985. Leyel, Mrs C. F. and Hartley, Miss Olga. Leyel, Mrs C. F. and Hartley, Miss Olga. The Gentle Art of Cookery The Gentle Art of Cookery, 1925, reprinted London, Chatto & Windus, 1970. Manjon, Maite and O'Brien, Catherine. Manjon, Maite and O'Brien, Catherine. Spanish Cooking Spanish Cooking, London, Book Club a.s.sociates, 1976. McClane, A. J. McClane, A. J. The Encyclopaedia of Fish Cookery The Encyclopaedia of Fish Cookery, London, Holt, Rinehart, Winston, 1977. McGee, Harold. McGee, Harold. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, London, Unwin Hyman, 1988. McNeill, F. Marian. McNeill, F. Marian. The Scots Kitchen The Scots Kitchen, London, Mayflower Books, 1974. Mitcham, Howard. Mitcham, Howard. The Provincetown Seafood Cookbook The Provincetown Seafood Cookbook, Reading, Ma.s.s., Addison-Wesley, 1975. Morand, Simone. Morand, Simone. Gastronomie normande d'hier et d'aujourd'hui Gastronomie normande d'hier et d'aujourd'hui, Paris, Flammarion, 1970. Musgrave, Rev. George M. Musgrave, Rev. George M. A Ramble Through Normandy, or Scenes, Characters and Incidents in a Sketching Excursion Through Calvados A Ramble Through Normandy, or Scenes, Characters and Incidents in a Sketching Excursion Through Calvados, London, David Bogue, 1855. Nott, John. Nott, John. Cook's and Confectioner's Dictionary Cook's and Confectioner's Dictionary, 1726, facsimile reprint, Rivington, 1980. OECD. OECD. Multilingual Dictionary of Fish and Fish Products Multilingual Dictionary of Fish and Fish Products, Paris, 1968. Oliver, Raymond. Oliver, Raymond. The French at Table The French at Table, London, Michael Joseph/Wine and Food Society, 1967. Owen, Sri. Owen, Sri. Indonesian Food and Cookery Indonesian Food and Cookery, 2nd r.e., London, Prospect Books, 1986. Petersen, Bengt. Petersen, Bengt. Delicious Fish Dishes Delicious Fish Dishes, Goteborg, 1975. 'A Potter'. 'A Potter'. Pottery, Home-made Potted Foods, Meats and Fish Pastes, Savoury b.u.t.ters and Others, by a Potter Pottery, Home-made Potted Foods, Meats and Fish Pastes, Savoury b.u.t.ters and Others, by a Potter, London, Wine and Food Society, 1946. Raffald, Elizabeth. Raffald, Elizabeth. The Experienced English Housekeeper The Experienced English Housekeeper, 1769, facsimile of 1782 ed, London, E & W Books. Roden, Claudia. Roden, Claudia. A Book of Middle Eastern Food A Book of Middle Eastern Food, 2nd r.e., London, Viking, 1985. Rombauer, I. S. and Beck, Simone. Rombauer, I. S. and Beck, Simone. The Joy of Cooking The Joy of Cooking, London, Dent, 1975. Stobart, Tom. Stobart, Tom. The Cook's Encyclopaedia The Cook's Encyclopaedia, London, Macmillan, 1982. Stubbs, Joyce M. Stubbs, Joyce M. Home Book of Greek Cookery Home Book of Greek Cookery, London, Faber & Faber, 1967. Toklas, Alice. Toklas, Alice. The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook, London, Brilliance Books, 1983. Verral, William. Verral, William. The Cook's Paradise, being William Verral's 'Complete System of Cookery The Cook's Paradise, being William Verral's 'Complete System of Cookery', 1759, reprinted London, The Sylvan Press, 1948. Walton, Izaak. Walton, Izaak. The Compleat Angler The Compleat Angler, London, Penguin, 1985. Watt, Alexander. Watt, Alexander. The Art of Simple French Cookery The Art of Simple French Cookery, 1960. Wright, Carol. Wright, Carol. Portuguese Food Portuguese Food, London, Dent, 1969. Yonge, C. M. Yonge, C. M. The Sea Sh.o.r.e The Sea Sh.o.r.e, London, Collins, 1949.