I'm Just Here For The Food Part 2

Searing is unique in that it is not only used to cook food to doneness, but as an opening act for other cooking methods. Why? Because it's the fastest way to get heat into food so it's the fastest way to brown the surface of food. Brown is good. Brown works. Of course, if you wish to attain a delicious, golden brown crust you must choose your food wisely. To do so, it helps to understand the reaction responsible for browning.

Any carbon-based life form (and all food used to be alive at some point) will turn black if exposed to enough heat; in other words, it turns to charcoal. However, in order to brown, the food in question must contain high levels of either carbohydrates, which brown via caramelization, or proteins, which brown thanks to the chemical chaos that is the Maillard reaction (see below).

THE MAILLARD REACTION.

When certain carbohydrates meet up with certain amino acids in the presence of high heat, dozens if not hundreds of new compounds are created. Some create flavor, others create color. Left to run amok, the Maillard reaction leads directly to the condition commonly known as "burned," which has its own flavors and colors-none of which are good.So we need a food containing amino acids and carbs. And since we want to get this crust on as much of the food as possible, a food with a flat surface would be helpful, especially if you intend to sear it until it's cooked to completion. What we need is meat.But it should be the right kind of meat. Some cuts of meat are quite tough and require prolonged cooking in order to break down connective tissues. Stew meat, lamb shanks, and chuck roast, for example, can be seared to add that "browned" flavor, but then should be slowly braised or simmered until done.

BIG RED BOOKO' BLUE I like filet of tenderloin steak as much as the next guy. A good one is at least 1 -inches thick, though, and if you try to sear it to doneness (meaning medium-rare, of course) the outside will look and taste like a meteorite.The solution: b.u.t.terfly it. Lay out the meat and find the edge that's kind of flat. Pick up your boning knife and turn the steak so that the flat side is facing away from the knife. Carefully slice the steak horizontally through the center, cutting through to the flat edge. Then open it like a book.Liberally season the steak and sear one side. Flip and repeat. Now just look at what you've done. You've doubled the flavor by doubling the seared surface area (and how about adding a bit of blue cheese in the center, too?)

THE TROUBLE WITH SEARING.

Doneness is a big issue. If the meat is thin enough, by the time the first side has earned its golden crust the interior will have cooked halfway through, so you flip. By the time the second side reaches maximum crustage (a minute or two longer than it took the first side, since the pan isn't as hot) you should have a perfectly cooked piece of meat.

However, the great majority of the meats that present themselves to the cook are not the perfect shape or size and therefore will not be done on the inside by the time the outer surfaces have reached golden brown and delicious status. The way I see it, you're left with three solid choices: 1. Change the thickness of the food.2. Sear to attain a yummy crust then finish cooking by another method.3. Stick with foods that are natural-born searers.

Master Profile: Searing Heattype: dry

Mode of transmission: 100-percent conduction Rate of transmission: very high very high Common transmitters: metal pans and griddles metal pans and griddles Temperature range: the widest range of any cooking method, from very low to very, very high the widest range of any cooking method, from very low to very, very high Target food characteristics: * low surface-to-ma.s.s ratio * low surface-to-ma.s.s ratio* wide, flat shape* high-protein foods that profit from a contrast between surface and interior doneness: beef steaks, tuna steaks, scallops* starchy batters: pancakes, crepes, and so on Non-culinary use: branding cattle (and in some cases, fraternity members) branding cattle (and in some cases, fraternity members)SEARING: THE SHORT FORM 1. Decrease the difference in temperature between refrigerated meat and your oven before starting the process; counter the meat for up to 30 minutes, depending on the size. Decrease the difference in temperature between refrigerated meat and your oven before starting the process; counter the meat for up to 30 minutes, depending on the size. As long as you've read the section called cleanliness is Next to. . . and put safe habits into practice, that is. As long as you've read the section called cleanliness is Next to. . . and put safe habits into practice, that is.

2. Don't be afraid to let the pan get hot. Heat the pan over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes if the food is small (a single duck breast) or 5 minutes if the food is large (a flank steak). Consider several small pieces (four duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s) to be one big piece. Don't be afraid to let the pan get hot. Heat the pan over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes if the food is small (a single duck breast) or 5 minutes if the food is large (a flank steak). Consider several small pieces (four duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s) to be one big piece. 3. 3. Season the meat with salt as soon as you put the pan on to heat. Season the meat with salt as soon as you put the pan on to heat. 4. 4. Double-check everything before you start because once the food hits the pan, there is no turning back. Double-check everything before you start because once the food hits the pan, there is no turning back. 5. 5. Examine both sides of the target food-whichever side looks best goes down first. When you turn the food, the pan isn't as hot as it was when you started, so the second crust doesn't form as quickly. This means it probably won't look as gosh-darned delicious as the first side, which is why you cooked the handsome side first. Examine both sides of the target food-whichever side looks best goes down first. When you turn the food, the pan isn't as hot as it was when you started, so the second crust doesn't form as quickly. This means it probably won't look as gosh-darned delicious as the first side, which is why you cooked the handsome side first. 6. 6. When you place the food in the pan there is going to be noise and maybe some smoke. Many people who cook respond to this by grabbing the food and moving it around. This is not a good thing to do. When you place the food in the pan there is going to be noise and maybe some smoke. Many people who cook respond to this by grabbing the food and moving it around. This is not a good thing to do. 7. 7. The food is hot, it's juicy, the kitchen smells great, the table's set-time to dig in, right? Wrong. Heat is still applying pressure to the meat, and any slicing or poking will result in a rapid exodus of juicy goodness. Place seared meat on a resting rack, covered with a large bowl or loosely tented with foil. Wait 5 minutes. This will give you time to ponder a pan sauce (see The food is hot, it's juicy, the kitchen smells great, the table's set-time to dig in, right? Wrong. Heat is still applying pressure to the meat, and any slicing or poking will result in a rapid exodus of juicy goodness. Place seared meat on a resting rack, covered with a large bowl or loosely tented with foil. Wait 5 minutes. This will give you time to ponder a pan sauce (see Sauces Sauces).

Skirt Steak: The Master Recipe Skirt steak is flat, uniform in thickness, and rarely longer than a 12-inch pan is wide. Not only was it born to be seared, it is one of the leanest cuts of meat suitable for searing.Software:1 skirt steak (see Beef Blueprint Beef Blueprint) 1 tablespoon vegetable oil Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper

Hardware:Spray bottle for the oil Cast-iron skillet Resting rack Aluminum foil or a large bowlApplication: SearingPrep the meat. Remove the steak from the refrigerator, pat dry, and place on rack for at least 15 minutes. (Less difference between meat and oven temperature.) Remove the steak from the refrigerator, pat dry, and place on rack for at least 15 minutes. (Less difference between meat and oven temperature.)Lube the meat. The goal here is to barely coat the surface of the meat with a thin film of oil. This will hold the salt to the meat, provide no-stick insurance, and serve as a heat conductor for all those nooks and crannies that don't actually come in contact with the pan. The trick is to make this layer skimpy. Too much oil and the salt will wash away. Oil also likes to spatter and even burn when faced with high heat, so I say use as little as possible. To that end, I employ a drugstore spray bottle. I don't put anything in it but peanut or safflower oil and I keep it set for "spray" rather than "stream" at all times. The goal here is to barely coat the surface of the meat with a thin film of oil. This will hold the salt to the meat, provide no-stick insurance, and serve as a heat conductor for all those nooks and crannies that don't actually come in contact with the pan. The trick is to make this layer skimpy. Too much oil and the salt will wash away. Oil also likes to spatter and even burn when faced with high heat, so I say use as little as possible. To that end, I employ a drugstore spray bottle. I don't put anything in it but peanut or safflower oil and I keep it set for "spray" rather than "stream" at all times.Season the steak liberally on both sides with kosher salt and pepper. What the heck does "season liberally" mean? Truth is, most folks underseason their food before cooking, which usually drives them to oversalt at the table. In the case of skirt steak, I go with at least teaspoon of salt per side. What the heck does "season liberally" mean? Truth is, most folks underseason their food before cooking, which usually drives them to oversalt at the table. In the case of skirt steak, I go with at least teaspoon of salt per side.Grind pepper onto each side (I go with half as much pepper as salt), and then use your hand to really rub the seasoning into the meat use your hand to really rub the seasoning into the meat. Rubbing is the only way to make sure you've got good salt-to-meat contact. Once the ma.s.sage is over, go wash your hands, and allow the meat to sit for at least 5 minutes. This allows some juices to come to the meat's surface-and those juices are what will give the steak a nice crust when seared.Heat the pan. Place your largest cast-iron skillet on the cook top over high heat. Allow 3 minutes for the pan to reach cooking heat. Place your largest cast-iron skillet on the cook top over high heat. Allow 3 minutes for the pan to reach cooking heat.Turn on your stove's exhaust system. If you do not have an exhaust system, open a window. Hold the steak so that the bottom edge hangs down right at the closest edge of the skillet and If you do not have an exhaust system, open a window. Hold the steak so that the bottom edge hangs down right at the closest edge of the skillet and lay the steak down into the pan. lay the steak down into the pan. This isn't so much to prevent splattering as to make sure that you get the whole thing in the pan without sliding it around. This is important because moving the meat around in those first few moments can cut down on crust production. This isn't so much to prevent splattering as to make sure that you get the whole thing in the pan without sliding it around. This is important because moving the meat around in those first few moments can cut down on crust production.Leave the meat absolutely alone for 3 minutes, then flip it over and cook for another 3 minutes-uninterrupted, please. This will result in a perfectly medium-rare steak. Want it more done than that? No, you don't ... really, you don't.Remove the steak from the skillet and let it rest on a resting rack for 5 minutes, covered loosely with aluminum foil or with a large bowl. Do not skip this step. covered loosely with aluminum foil or with a large bowl. Do not skip this step.While the method given at right is the cla.s.sic, it's not one that I use anymore. That's right, I no longer cook skirt steak on a pan, griddle, or even a grill. I cook it directly on natural chunk charcoal coals.I get a couple of quarts going, spread them out across the grate, fan off the ashes, and lay on the meat. I let it cook 1 minute, flip the steak onto fresh coals, and cook another minute. Then I quickly wrap it in heavy-duty foil for a half hour. It's the best-tasting meat I've ever had. And yes--it's seared!

Now, skirt steak is not a very tender piece of meat. It's lean and fibrous and flat-out tough unless you slice it correctly-meaning thin. By slicing thin across the grain, you present the prospective chewer with short muscle fibers rather than long ones, which creates a far more tender mouth feel. The problem with thin, however, is that a skirt steak is not very thick to begin with, so if you cut straight through it you end up with something that looks like meat fettuccine, which may taste good but looks a little ... weird. Thus the bias cut-across the grain. It's lean and fibrous and flat-out tough unless you slice it correctly-meaning thin. By slicing thin across the grain, you present the prospective chewer with short muscle fibers rather than long ones, which creates a far more tender mouth feel. The problem with thin, however, is that a skirt steak is not very thick to begin with, so if you cut straight through it you end up with something that looks like meat fettuccine, which may taste good but looks a little ... weird. Thus the bias cut-across the grain. Slice the steak on an angle Slice the steak on an angle and you get it all: short muscle fibers and great-looking slices. The leftovers are delicious cold, by the way. and you get it all: short muscle fibers and great-looking slices. The leftovers are delicious cold, by the way.one of those strange, food-industry terms that attempts to describe something you can't really describe Cast-Iron Duck I'm chronically depressed about the puny amount of duck we eat in this country. It's just plain wrong. Besides being downright American, duck is without question our tastiest poultry. If we're to eat less red meat, I say let's eat more duck.This sear is a little different than the basic method because it starts with medium rather than high heat in order to render out some fat without burning the duck skin. Since it depends on rendering out subcutaneous fat, proper searing also translates to a more healthful dish.

Application: SearingWith a sharp knife, trim excess fat and sinew from the b.r.e.a.s.t.s and score the skin in a crosshatch pattern, being very careful not to cut into the muscle. Pat the b.r.e.a.s.t.s dry with paper towels. The less moisture the better: it will result in a crisper skin-and crisp skin is essential. Season the b.r.e.a.s.t.s with salt and pepper. Heat a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet over medium heat for about 3 minutes. Using a spray bottle, lightly coat the pan with oil. Gently lay the b.r.e.a.s.t.s into the pan, skin side down. Resist the urge to move them around, as you'll want them to brown. Once you've achieved a golden brown skin, using tongs, flip the b.r.e.a.s.t.s away from yourself, using easy motions so you don't splash hot oil on yourself. Cook for another 3 minutes. Remove the b.r.e.a.s.t.s to a resting rack and loosely cover with foil. Letting the meat rest will allow the juices to redistribute throughout the meat. After about 5 minutes, with the skin side up, slice the b.r.e.a.s.t.s on a bias. Fan the meat over a tasty side dish-how about Red Flannel Hash Red Flannel Hash?-and enjoy.Yield: 4 servingsSoftware:4 duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Canola oil

Hardware:Sharp knife Paper towels Spray bottle for the oil Cast-iron skillet Tongs Resting rack Aluminum foilRed Flannel Hash This dish is best with the delicious Cast-Iron Duck Cast-Iron Duck.

Application: SearingPreheat the oven to 400 F.Using a paring knife, peel the beet under cold running water, cut into medium dice (to yield 1 cup), and place in a cold-water bath as you go; this will help keep your clothes from getting stained. Peel and dice the potatoes (to yield 3 cups) and put them in a second cold-water bath after cutting them; this will keep them from oxidizing and turning brown. Drain the diced beet, and coat with 1 tablespoon duck fat. Spread the beet pieces out on a baking sheet and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 8 minutes, or until they are slightly tender. Drain the potatoes and put them in the pot of boiling water. When the water returns to a boil, drain the potatoes and plunge them into an ice-water bath to stop the cooking. Drain, rinse, and spin them in a salad spinner. Heat a cast-iron pan over medium heat for 3 minutes. Add the remaining duck fat and toss in the garlic. Cook the garlic for about 45 seconds, just to flavor the oil. Add the onion and cook for another 45 seconds. Add the potatoes and beets and cook until crisp with a minimal amount of stirring. Be sure not to overcrowd the pan or you'll never get that crispness you're after-work in batches if you must. Season with salt and pepper, add the chives, and stir to distribute. If you're really adventurous, crack a duck egg atop the hash and cover with a lid. Cook until the egg is at your favorite degree of doneness.Yield: 4 servingsSoftware:1 medium red beet 4 medium red potatoes 3 tablespoons duck fat or oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 Vidalia or other sweet onion, diced 1 tablespoon chopped chives 1 duck or chicken egg (optional)

Hardware:Paring knife 2 cold-water baths Baking sheet Large pot of boiling salted water 1 ice-water bath Salad spinner Cast-iron pan Wooden spoonThis dish is best with the delicious Cast-Iron Duck.Bar-B-Fu n.o.body said that the protein to be seared has to be meat. Pound for pound, tofu is the cheapest form of complete protein around.

Just about every market around today carries a couple of hardnesses of regular or Chinese tofu: soft and firm. Soft tofu can be crumbled like a soft cheese, whereas firm tofu is what you want when you're going to cook a chunk of the stuff. It acts like a sponge, soaking up whatever liquid it meets, especially if it's wrung out first. And remember, surface-to-ma.s.s ratio determines marinating time, so cut first, then soak (see Have a Soak Have a Soak).

Application: SearingSlice the tofu lengthwise into 4 equal parts and set on a baking sheet lined with paper towels. Place a couple of paper towels on top and lay a second baking sheet on top. Put a couple of cans of food on top of that to weight it down. Set aside for at least 30 minutes.Meanwhile, mix the garlic, chiles, barbecue sauce, and vinegar. Season the tofu "steaks" with salt and pepper, place the tofu in a zip-top bag, and pour in the barbecue sauce mixture. Allow to marinate for at least 1 hour or overnight.Drain the marinade off the tofu and reserve. Heat a non-stick pan for about 3 minutes over medium flame. Shake off any excess marinade and add the tofu to the pan. No oil is needed. Don't move the "steaks" or they will not brown. Using tongs, flip after 2 minutes and allow to brown on the other side. Remove the tofu and place on the rolls. Pour the reserved marinade into the hot pan and add the beer. Allow to reduce to sauce consistency. Pour over the "steaks" and enjoy with some spicy and vinegary slaw. Wash down with the rest of your beer. Isn't health food great?

Yield: 4 sandwichesSoftware:1 pound firm tofu 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 tablespoon minced serrano chiles cup of your favorite barbecue sauce cup apple cider vinegar Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 white hoagie rolls (make sure the bread is sort of firm and definitely flavorful; the bread can make or break this dish) cup of your favorite beer, preferably dark (I use s.h.i.+ner Bock)

Hardware:2 baking sheets Paper towels Cans of food for weighting Gallon-size zip-top bag Non-stick pan TongsBlackened Tuna Steak I have always suspected that the whole "blackening" phenomenon that crept out of the bayou a decade ago was a clever way to serve burned fish. That said, this powder does turn pretty dark. And yes, it tastes mighty good, too, especially when applied to a fish that can be seared and left darned near raw on the inside-meaning tuna and salmon, but mostly tuna.This recipe comes from Patrick Matecat, a very American albeit French chef who tolerated my presence in his kitchen for more than a year.

Application: SearingCombine all the spices and salt in a jar or other lidded container and shake well to combine.Heat a cast-iron skillet over high heat until it's hot enough to make a drop of water jump, not just sizzle. Lightly lubricate each piece of tuna with canola oil. Dredge the fish in the spice powder and shake off all possible excess.Spritz the pan with oil right before adding the fish. This will a.s.sure even heating as the crust forms. A 1-inch steak cooked for 2 minutes on each side will be perfectly colored on the outside and just warm on the inside. If you like your tuna cooked a little more, you can remove the pan from the heat, cover loosely with foil and give it another minute on each side. Don't worry, the pan will stay plenty hot. Thicker steaks should also be seared on the sides by setting edgewise in the pan.Serve the steak whole or slice thin and fan around a mound of coleslaw.Note: If you don't like the look of what your market has in the case and if you're planning on serving at least 4 people, ask the fishmonger if he has any whole loins. If so, buy one that's about 8 inches long and have it sliced into 4 steaks. Never, ever be afraid to ask a butcher or fishmongor to cut something special for you. That's why he's there. If you don't like the look of what your market has in the case and if you're planning on serving at least 4 people, ask the fishmonger if he has any whole loins. If so, buy one that's about 8 inches long and have it sliced into 4 steaks. Never, ever be afraid to ask a butcher or fishmongor to cut something special for you. That's why he's there.Yield: 1 steakSoftware: 2 tablespoons paprika 2 tablespoons paprika 1 tablepoon plus 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons onion powder 2 teaspoons garlic powder 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 teaspoons white pepper 1 teaspoons black pepper 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 teaspoon dried ginger 1 teaspoon ground c.u.min Canola oil 1 tuna steak, 1-inch thick

Hardware: Gla.s.s jar or other lidded container Gla.s.s jar or other lidded container Cast-iron skillet Spray bottle for the oil Pan-Seared Portobello Mushrooms I tried several approaches before choosing this method of preparing mushrooms. This method produces a nice meaty texture and great mushroom flavor.Application: SearingCut the mushrooms into -inch slices without removing the gills. Heat a cast-iron pan over medium-high heat for about 3 minutes. Mist the mushrooms with oil and season with salt and pepper. Using a paper towel, spread about 1 teaspoon oil in the pan. Lay the slices of mushroom in the pan without overlapping, and sear, without moving them, for 5 minutes. Flip them over, cook for another 5 minutes, and serve. Some things are as simple as they seem.Yield: 2 appetizer servingsSoftware: 2 portobello mushroom caps 2 portobello mushroom caps Olive oil Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper Hardware: Cast-iron pan or heavy saute pan Cast-iron pan or heavy saute pan Spray bottle for the oil Paper towel Tongs

Chick On a Stick (Chicken Satay) Application: SearI realize that satay is usually grilled, but I've come to the conclusion that the dish is better when cooked on a solid metal surface.

Pound each chicken breast between two pieces of plastic wrap until they're approximately inch thick. Cut each breast into 1-inch strips and set aside.I find this is much easier to do it if the plastic is just barely wet, so I keep a spritz bottle on hand.

Whisk together the garlic, peanut b.u.t.ter, coconut milk, sesame oil, hoisin, lime juice, ginger, salt, and pepper in a small mixing bowl. Move cup of the mix to a large zip top bag, add the chicken, and seal the bag, removing as much air as possible without actually sucking it out. Goosh it around in your fingers and revel in the fact that a layer of (mostly) impermeable plastic protects you from the potential bio-bomb of poultry inside. Refrigerate for 2 hours.Software: 4 boneless skinless chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s 4 boneless skinless chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s 6 cloves garlic, minced cup peanut b.u.t.ter cup coconut milk 2 tablespoons sesame oil cup hoisin sauce 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice 1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger 1 tablespoon Kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Hardware: Meat mallet or pounder Meat mallet or pounder Plastic wrap Cutting board Chef's knife Plunger cup Microplane or other fine grater Whisk Small mixing bowl 1-gallon sealable plastic bag 24 to 30 6-inch bamboo skewers Cast iron griddle Tongs

Cover the remaining sauce and hold at room temperature until your ready to serve (a.s.suming, of course, that you're going to serve this the same day).Remove the chicken from the marinade and thread each piece onto a separate bamboo skewer. Needless to say, you should throw the marinade away immediately as it is now a potential bio-hazard.Heat the griddle to 275 F. Place the satay onto griddle (do not crowd them) and cook for 1 to 3 minutes per side, depending on the size of the piece of chicken. Serve immediately with the reserved sauce for dipping.Yield: 4 servings

CHAPTER 2.

Grilling

There are a great many things one can learn to do without actually doing them. Grilling is not one of them.

A View to a Grill

I am sitting here in a 28-foot Amba.s.sador-cla.s.s Airstream trailer. Constructed of s.h.i.+ny clean aluminum in 1978, its curvy interior, overhead storage, and pop-out tables epitomize modern design. I am typing on a Macintosh G4 t.i.tanium Powerbook, which is roving through my MP3 collection like a digital whirling dervish. When I need to speak to someone, which isn't very often since the G4 is wirelessly connected to the Web through a device in the house, I do so on a Nokia cell phone capable of trading files with my Palm V, which I really should replace since it's so 1999. When I need a break I torture my cat by tracing designs on the wall with the mini-laser pointer on my key chain. Soon, though, I will go outside and set a fire in a contraption that looks like Sputnik, and cook a piece of cow. The point is: I am a modern guy but the cooking I enjoy the most is the kind that's been around the longest-over fire.

Why have a laser on a key chain? Because you can, of course.

Cooking over open coals, a process which, depending on who you ask, is called either broiling, grilling, or roasting, has been around since the first caveman noticed that the rack of mammoth hanging by the fire didn't turn green and stinky as quickly as the one left by the door. Drying and the curative powers of smoke were no doubt responsible, but it didn't take long for some Cro-Magnon klutz to drop dinner in the fire. And it was good. A lot less chewy and kind of yummy. Sure, it was gritty from lying in the coals, but soon (a thousand years, tops) some Og or Ogetta stuck a spear in the meat and, well, any Boy Scout or Girl Scout knows the rest. Grilling is huge to this day, but don't think for a minute that this has to do with flavor or getting outdoors or any other culinary concerns.

You see, most of the grilling in this country is performed by men, and men like fire. In fact, I suspect that the backyard cooking boom this country witnessed in the late 1940s and 50s was really about playing with lighter fluid. It's not our fault, of course. I trust that someday the lab-coaters will have identified a gene, unique to the Y chromosome, that will be dubbed the "firestarter gene."

Whether it's for the love of fire or food, grilling is more popular today than ever before8 despite the rise in concerns over potentially cancer-causing compounds in the smoke created when animal fats burn. despite the rise in concerns over potentially cancer-causing compounds in the smoke created when animal fats burn.

FUEL MATTERS.

The average hardwood log contains around 39 percent cellulose, 35 percent hemicellulose, 19.5 percent lignin, and 3 percent extractives and such. When you burn it-well, I shouldn't say "burn," because wood doesn't actually burn-it undergoes a kind of thermal degradation known as pyrolysis.9 During this process, the wood beaks down into a slew of volatile substances (carbon monoxide and dioxide, hydrocarbons, hydrogen, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols, tar, phenols, that sort of thing) and a solid carbon ma.s.s. When you see flames and smoke, that's the volatiles burning. When those are exhausted, what's left of the wood glows. These are called coals, and they burn much hotter and much cleaner than the stuff that fueled the flames. They are also the stuff of which all good grill sessions are made. During this process, the wood beaks down into a slew of volatile substances (carbon monoxide and dioxide, hydrocarbons, hydrogen, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols, tar, phenols, that sort of thing) and a solid carbon ma.s.s. When you see flames and smoke, that's the volatiles burning. When those are exhausted, what's left of the wood glows. These are called coals, and they burn much hotter and much cleaner than the stuff that fueled the flames. They are also the stuff of which all good grill sessions are made.

Charcoal is nothing more than wood that has had its volatile components removed. Although it's a lot more complicated than it sounds, commercial charcoal is made by heating wood (or in the case of briquettes, wood chips) to about 1000 F in an airless environment. Natural lump charcoal is fired with grain alcohol; most briquette makers opt for petroleum. This cooking removes those volatile components while leaving the carbonaceous ma.s.s intact. After cooling, the lump charcoal is bagged and s.h.i.+pped. Chips get mixed up with lime, cornstarch, and other binders and are compressed into briquettes. This is not to say that all briquettes are bad. "Natural" briquettes still contain binders like cornstarch but they lack the nitrates and petroleum, and the non-burning filler (sand) you find in standard briquettes. Natural briquettes burn longer than lump or chunk charcoal, which lights faster and burns a good deal hotter. Consider using a mixture of the two fuels in certain situations. If you're interested in smoking foods, remember that chunk charcoal and charcoal briquettes are processed products that burn to produce hot coals but do not alone have the ability to transport flavor via smoke. Adding wood chips or chunks is necessary to produce the smoke that flavors food.

LIGHT MY FIRE.

Although natural charcoal fires up far easier than briquettes, charcoal is still just lumps of carbon, and lumps of carbon aren't exactly fireworks. Clever hairless monkeys that we are, we've come up with a wide range of devices designed to speed lighting. Only one of these am I wholeheartedly opposed to: fast-lighting briquettes. I'm not naming names, but you know what I'm talking about. It's not that I'm afraid that one of these chemical-laden lumps is going to just go off in my hand, it's just that no matter how far I burn them down before I put the food on the grill, I can swear I taste something ... funny. That's all I'm going to say ... funny.

A BARBECUE BY ANY OTHER NAME.

Folks like to argue about what defines great barbecue. What they really should be arguing about is what the word actually means. It is just about the only word that out-connotes roast. You could, for instance, say, "I fired up my barbecue and barbecued a mess of barbecue for the church barbecue." (Try that out on a French cook someday-it'll crack him like an oeuf. oeuf.)The origins of the word are traceable. When Columbus landed on Hispaniola, he found the natives smoking meat and fish on green wood lattices built over smoldering bone coals. The natives called this way of cooking boucan boucan. The Spaniards, being good colonialists, decided to change it to barbacoa barbacoa. On his next journey from Spain, Columbus brought pigs to Hispaniola. A few of them got away, and soon there was more boucan boucan than you could shake a flaming femur at. As word got around that the get-tin' was good on Hispaniola, bandits, pirates, escaped prisoners, and runaway slaves made for the island and lived high on than you could shake a flaming femur at. As word got around that the get-tin' was good on Hispaniola, bandits, pirates, escaped prisoners, and runaway slaves made for the island and lived high on boucan boucan three times a day. The French, witty as they are, called these individuals three times a day. The French, witty as they are, called these individuals boucaniers boucaniers.So, the folks in Tampa have a football team whose name means "those who cook over sticks."As far as modern usage goes, barbecue the noun refers to slow-cooked pork or beef. Barbecued chicken is grilled chicken served with barbecue sauce. Barbecuing is the act of making barbecue; cooking directly over coals is grilling.

A NOTE ON SMOKE-MAKING ELEMENTS.

I've received angry letters for saying this, but gosh darnit I'm saying it again anyway: unless the food in question is going to be exposed to smoke for several hours, what kind of smoke it is just doesn't matter as long as it's from a hardwood. If you'd like to add smoke to your grill-roasting experience I suggest piling half a cup of hardwood sawdust in the middle of a 10-inch square of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Bring all four corners together and twist the pack so that it looks like a metal comet with a short tail. Poke the head of the pouch with a skewer a couple of times and you've got a grill-ready smoke bomb.

YOU WANT CHAR? I'LL SHOW YOU CHAR When you want serious firepower, place a small grate (the cooking grate from a Smokey Joe is perfect) directly on your chimney. This is like cooking over an upturned F-16. It's not suitable for everything, but I'll sometimes do little hunks of prime tuna as a stand-around-the-grill appetizer.

Lighter fluid may be the perennial pyro-preference, but there are other firestarter options. My favorites are electric-coil starters and chimney starters. The first requires 110 volts of power and a safe place to set it down once you've removed it from the grill, but it does the job quickly and effectively. A chimney starter is also fast and it allows you to have lit coals standing by at all times. A chimney does, however, require a safe place to live. I keep mine on a cinder block (but never on gravel).

During a multiday grilling binge last summer I padded out to my extremely carbonaceous carport to fire up one of the three grills that always seem to be there. I loaded a chimney with chunks and reached for some newspaper to stick in the bottom. But the only paper I could scrounge was a big wad of paper towel I'd used to wipe down grill number two the night before. So I used it. Fifteen minutes later the paper towel was still burning. Of course: I'd rubbed down grill number two with a bit of vegetable oil, essentially making the wick for an oil lamp. I was delighted with this discovery despite the fact that the rest of mankind had figured it out a few hundred thousand years ago.

To make a long story short, now I lay a sheet of newspaper on the ground, mist it with vegetable oil, wad it up, and stick it under my grill's charcoal grate. I pile on the charcoal, then light the paper through one of the air vents with my pocket torch. It never, ever fails-or at least it hasn't yet.

I still keep a couple of chimney starters around for those times I need to have some charcoal lit before adding it to the fire or have a filet or hunk of tuna to sear (see ill.u.s.tration, left). Other than that, I've gone to the oil-on-paper method, which is a lot cleaner and a lot less dangerous.10

The Grill

There was a time when I did not own a gas grill. It is not that I had anything against natural gas as a fuel (even if it does burn a little wet), it's just that the only gas grills I'd seen that are worth a darn cost more than my first three cars put together. Gas grilling is really just upside-down broiling and the only major advantage that this kind of cooking has over oven broiling (a.s.suming, of course, that you have a gas broiler) is that the grill will produce nice grill mark-but if you use the right pan under the broiler you can do that, too (see How to Make People Think You Grilled When You Didn't How to Make People Think You Grilled When You Didn't). If you only have an electric broiler, a gas grill makes some sense.

And, as of 2002, I own a Weber Genesis Silver gas grill, which I love. No, it's not ever going to give me the flavor of charcoal, but for speed and convenience it can't be beat. This is not to say that I've gotten rid of old fireball.

Up until the late nineteenth century, rural communities would get together to build a charcoal kiln, a giant "teepee" of wood with an airshaft down the middle. The structure was covered with a kind of adobe made by mixing ash with mud and water. Once this covering had dried, a fire was set in the center shaft and the mouth sealed. Holes were opened at the base of the kiln so that the fire would have just enough air to cook the volatile elements out of the wood, leaving a carbonaceous ma.s.s behind. After a few weeks the kiln was torn down and voila!: voila!: charcoal for everyone in the family. charcoal for everyone in the family.