I'm Just Here For The Food Part 4

HOW TO GRILL BY INDIRECT HEAT.

On the surface, the use of indirect heat or grill-roasting would seem to be no more than an imitation of cooking in an oven. After all, we're talking hot air and an enclosed s.p.a.ce-sounds like an oven to me. So why is it that grill-roasted foods taste so much better than anything that ever came out of an oven? Well, I'm here to tell you why: magic!

Okay, there's a little more to it, but we'll come back to magic later. Here are some unique characteristics of grill-roasting to consider: * It's a truly dry method (as noted earlier, the burning of natural gas produces some water; electric coils do not).* The heat source is mobile (so far, no one has come up with a home range or oven in which the heat source itself can be moved around).* Smoke: Even if a great majority of the volatiles have been driven out of the charcoal there still are compounds being released. Add a few smoke-creating elements, and you're really onto something.

Indirect grilling is suitable for just about anything that will fit on the grates. No, you don't want to bake a pie here, but you should try a wide range of plant life from onions to bananas in the peel. Chiles are especially wonderful when their heat is tempered by smoke. Other veggies I grill are asparagus, mushrooms, sweet potatoes, leeks, and carrots.

RED, WHITE, AND WHAT THEY CHEW.

Somewhere along the line "red" meat got a bad reputation, while "white" meat was deemed healthful. But should we really judge an animal by the color of its flesh? What makes red meat red and white meat white? Grazing animals, like cattle, eat gra.s.s. Gra.s.s contains iron, which fuels myoglobin, which in turn tints red meat red. Non-grazing animals, such as pigs, don't eat gra.s.s; they primarily eat corn, and therefore their flesh is lighter in color.

Master Profile: Grilling Heat type: dry dry

Mode of transmission: The metal cooking grate acts like a heat antennae, carrying heat to the food via conduction. The metal cooking grate acts like a heat antennae, carrying heat to the food via conduction.

Rate of transmission: high high Common transmitters: Glowing coals, ceramic rocks, calrod, gas flame Glowing coals, ceramic rocks, calrod, gas flame Temperature range: very low to very high very low to very high Target food characteristics: * Meats, fruits, vegetables, and doughs that profit from some degree of surface browning and/or smoke exposure * Meats, fruits, vegetables, and doughs that profit from some degree of surface browning and/or smoke exposure Non-culinary use: s.p.a.ce heaters-but never inside s.p.a.ce heaters-but never insideWHAT YOU'LL NEED TO ADD TO THE GRILL FOR INDIRECT COOKING * probe-style thermometer probe-style thermometer * * hinged cooking grate that allows coals to be added during cooking hinged cooking grate that allows coals to be added during cooking * * coffee can (for feeding in fresh charcoal) coffee can (for feeding in fresh charcoal) * * pocket timer pocket timer * * various-size disposable aluminum pans to catch drips various-size disposable aluminum pans to catch drips When you want to cover some, but not all of the items on your grill, go for a disposable-foil roasting pan. They're cheap, come in a dozen different sizes, and when you're done cooking, you'll have something sterile to carry the chow in.

Liz & d.i.c.k Rack of Lamb Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton were always on again/off again, so I call any dish that swings from direct to indirect heat "Liz & d.i.c.k." The goal is to develop a nicely charred crust and to cook the meat through without burning the outside. This method occupies the nether region between direct grilling and grill-roasting and could be applied to just about any food that has more ma.s.s than surface area.

Application: Grilling by direct and indirect heatHold the rack of lamb upright on a cutting board so that the ribs are straight up in the air. Cut in half by holding the center two ribs apart and slicing straight down between them. When you almost get to the board you'll have to s.h.i.+ft your knife around the bone.Lubricate the mini roasts with oil and season with salt and pepper. Fold a strip of heavy-duty aluminum foil around the exposed rib bones so that they won't burn.Fill a chimney starter with charcoal and light. Arrange the coals on one side of the grill. (If you're working with a Weber kettle, open the bottom and top vents.) Let it burn for 5 minutes then execute an ice cube test directly over the fire. It should melt completely in 20 to 25 seconds.Software: Rack of lamb (2 pounds; I prefer Rack of lamb (2 pounds; I prefer domestic lamb) Olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 red potatoes Crushed rosemary sprigs Hardware: Cutting board Cutting board Heavy-duty aluminum foil Chimney starter Charcoal Instant-read thermometer Serving platter Small cast-iron skillet

Place the lamb pieces on the grill, bone side up and pointing inward, and grill them for 5 minutes, or until brown. Flip bone side down and put the cover on the grill. Cook for 5 minutes, then lift the lid and rotate lamb off the heat. Replace the lid and cook for 8 minutes more or until the internal temperature reads 138 F on an instant-read thermometer. Transfer the lamb to a platter and allow the meat to rest.By the way, there's a lot of room on that grill. So why not put something on the other side of the grate? Something that won't mind being directly over the heat while the lamb is off to the side. Say, a small iron skillet full of red potatoes, cut in half, tossed in oil, seasoned with salt, pepper, and crushed rosemary, and placed cut side down in the skillet. (Or you could make cla.s.sic hobo packs by constructing a pouch from a triple layer of heavy aluminum foil and filling it with cubed root vegetables, herbs, and b.u.t.ter.) Go ahead, play: it would be a shame to waste all that good heat.

Yield: 2 servings

The Cure for Salmon Application: Grilling by indirect heatCrimp together 2 sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil to form a sheet 1 times longer and 3 to 4 times wider than the fish. Spread a single layer of plastic wrap over the foil. Pour the honey into the ramekin and microwave on high for 30 seconds or until it becomes thin. Brush the fish with the honey and set aside.Combine the salt and the sugar. Spread of this mixture down the center of the plastic wrap, roughly in the shape of the fish. Lay the fish on top and then spread the remainder of the mixture on top of the fish (see ill.u.s.trations at far right). You should barely see the flesh through the rub. Finally, lightly wipe your hand from the fish tail to the head so the coverage will be lighter at the tail end than over the thicker meat of the flanks.Pull the sides of the foil over the fish, then carefully crimp downward until you have a tight seal against the fish. Crimp the ends of the package in at least three turns. (Make the package as watertight as possible.)Place the package on a sheet pan and cover with the second pan. Weight this down with a large, heavy book and place in the refrigerator. After 1 hour, turn the fish over, re-weight, and return to the refrigerator for 1 more hour.Software: 1 side of farm-raised Atlantic 1 side of farm-raised Atlantic salmon, cut from an 8- to 10- pound whole fish 2 to 3 tablespoons honey 3 tablespoons kosher salt 3 tablespoons sugar Non-stick spray 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Hardware: Aluminum foil Aluminum foil Plastic wrap Microwave-safe ramekin Basting brush 3 sheet pans Paper towels Chimney starter Charcoal 2 small disposable aluminum pans One 16 x 36-inch piece of chicken wire Wire cutters Newspaper Probe thermometer 2 wooden spoons or metal skewers Serving platter

Move the package to the sink and remove the fish from the package (be careful, there will be a lot of juice). Rinse the fish thoroughly to remove any remaining cure and dry the fish with paper towels.Light a chimney starter full of lump charcoal. Line up two small disposable aluminum pans down the center of the coal grate. Distribute the lit charcoal evenly on either side of the pans. Divide another half chimney full of unlit charcoal between the two piles. Put the cooking grate on and then the lid. Let the cavity heat to 500 F.Meanwhile, prepare the fish for the grill.The most difficult thing about grilling a side of salmon is getting it off the grill in one piece once it's cooked. Good thing you went to the hardware store and bought about 16 inches of chicken wire that you cut down to the size of your grill top (see diagram A). Lay the chicken wire out on a few sheets of newspaper and coat it heavily with non-stick spray. Place the salmon, skin side down, on the chicken wire. Brush the fish liberally with extra-virgin olive oil. Insert the probe end of your thermometer into the thickest part of the fish, bring the corners of the wire together like a sling, and proudly carry your fish to the grill.You could also serve the fish on the grate, or just cook it on the coals to begin with.

When the grill has reached a temperature of 500 F, carefully remove the lid and place the fish (chicken wire-side down) on the grate. Re-lid, being careful not to kink or crush the thermometer probe wire. Close the vents top and bottom, insert the probe wire connection into the thermometer base, then set the onboard alarm for 140 F. That's it.When the alarm goes off, remove the lid, and use a pair of wooden spoons or metal skewers to pick up the chicken-wire sling (see diagram B).Back in the kitchen, roll the fish off onto the back of a sheet pan. Place your serving platter upside down on top of the fish and then-holding the pan firmly in place-flip everything over. Now the fish should be right side up on the platter. (Be warned: there's going to be some juice and odds are good some of it's going to get on you.) Serve to a grateful and amazed a.s.semblage.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

FISH CURE.

Grilled b.u.t.terflied Chicken This unusual method of grilling may produce the best-tasting chicken you've ever had. The spice rub may be altered to suit your individual taste.

Application: Grilling by direct heatPrepare a medium-hot grill using about 3 quarts natural chunk charcoal.Mix the salt and all the herb and spice ingredients together in a jar or other container with a perforated lid.Wash the chicken, removing the giblets, and pat dry. Carefully remove the backbone from the chicken using poultry shears or a large boning knife. Remove the keel bone (or breast bone, if you prefer), and press the bird flat like a b.u.t.terfly.Liberally rub both sides of the chicken with canola oil, then sprinkle the spices to cover.Place chicken, skin side down, directly over coals. Place a roasting pan flat on top of the chicken and weight it down with 2 bricks. Grill until brown and deeply marked, about 12 minutes. Turn the chicken over, re-weight, and allow to cook another 15 minutes or until chicken is just done. Let the chicken rest for at least 10 minutes, then bring to the table whole.Yield: 2 to 4 servingsNote: This recipe makes enough rub for 2 whole chickens. This recipe makes enough rub for 2 whole chickens.Software: For the rub (see For the rub (see Note Note): 1 tablespoon kosher salt 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon whole c.u.min, toasted and ground 1 teaspoon whole coriander, toasted and ground 2 teaspoons garlic powder teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon paprika One whole broiler/fryer chicken Canola oil Hardware: 3 quarts natural charcoal 3 quarts natural charcoal Gla.s.s jar or other lidded container Poultry shears or a large boning knife Roasting pan 2 bricks, wrapped with aluminum foil

Tropical Mash This is my favorite grill-friendly side dish for jerk chicken, spicy pork roast, or any other spicy grill-worthy meat. Sure you have to crank up the fire an hour earlier, but it's worth it.

Application: Grilling by indirect heatJust as you begin to fire up the grill, set the sweet potatoes on the grate, away from the heat. (You want to cook them indirectly or they'll be burned on the outside and raw in the middle.) Cook the potatoes for about 1 hour, turning them occasionally, until done; they should give to the pressure of your tongs. Cut a couple of small slits in the peel of the banana to allow steam to escape and grill it until the peel is black and the inside soft. In a small saucepan, heat the coconut milk and b.u.t.ter. Peel the skin from the potatoes and the banana and put them in a mixing bowl. Pour in some of the coconut milk mixture and mash with a potato masher, adding more liquid as needed. Season with salt and white pepper.

Yield: 4 servingsSoftware: 4 small sweet potatoes 4 small sweet potatoes 1 banana 1 cup coconut milk 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter Kosher salt Freshly ground white pepper Hardware: Tongs Tongs Small saucepan Mixing bowl Potato masher

Grilled Romaine Application: Grilling by direct heatHeat up a charcoal grill. Quarter the romaine lengthwise so that the root keeps each piece together. Lightly coat with oil and season with salt and pepper. Mix together the capers, mustard, and vinegar. Lay the romaine on the grill, directly over the heat. Turn, with tongs, every few seconds until it begins to char and wilt (total grill time is about 1 minute). Remove to serving plates and spoon the vinegar mixture over each. Serve warm.Yield: 4 servingsSoftware: 1 head romaine lettuce 1 head romaine lettuce Olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon capers 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard cup apple cider vinegar Hardware: Tongs Tongs Mixing bowl

Broiling

In the United States, broiling is grilling inverted: fire up, food down. Broiling is hands-down my favorite cooking method. I broil asparagus, I broil just about every type of meat you can imagine. I broil shrimp. I've broiled marshmallows. I like this method because it gives you 75 percent of what you get from grilling. Since fat's not dripping down onto flame you don't have to fight flame-ups. You also don't get some of the flavors that come from the gaseous portion of combustion-smoke for instance. You also don't get convection, so don't be surprised if broiling a piece of meat takes a little longer than grilling it. Then again, since broiling takes place in the oven, we have a lot less opportunity to pick at it, turn it prematurely and get in the way in general. Still it's way easier to broil asparagus than to grill it. (Gravity, you know.) HOW TO MAKE PEOPLE THINK YOU GRILLED WHEN YOU DIDN'T You're going to need a couple of cast-iron grill grates for this-the ones with the really wide bars. If your grill didn't come with this type of grate, drop by your local grill shop and buy a set. You'll need to cure them just as you would a cast-iron skillet.Place the oven rack in the next-to-the-top position. Place two grill grates on a lipped cookie sheet or a half sheet pan and slide them into the oven.Fire up your broiler and give the grates about ten minutes to absorb plenty of heat. If you've got an electric broiler, give them a little more time.While the grates heat, lubricate your meat well on both sides with oil of your choice, and then season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Let the meat sit at room temperature while grates heat.Carefully slide the oven rack out, take aim and position your meat toward one end of the grate-presentation side down. (This is a trick the pros use: always start with your prettiest side down so that it will face up on the plate.)When the meat is ready to turn, pull out the oven rack and, using tongs, flip the food over to the front of the grate. (See ill.u.s.tration.) Finish cooking to desired doneness.

Marinated Flank Steak Because of its shape and tissue structure, flank steak is, to my mind, the most marinatable hunk of beef there is. And the extra-virgin olive oil contains natural emulsifiers, which help pull the marinade into the meat.

Application: BroilingCombine all ingredients except the steak in the bowl of a food processor and process until the onions are pureed. Pour into a large (1-gallon) zip-top freezer bag. Add the steak and carefully squeeze or suck out as much of the air as possible.Place on a shallow tray (just in case the bag springs a leak) and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours.Remove the steak from the bag, pat it dry thoroughly, and let it come to room temperature. Preheat the broiler on High and place the rack and broiler pan so that the surface of the meat will be no less than 2 inches from the element or flame. Cook for 3 minutes per side for rare, 4 minutes per side for medium.Let the steak rest on a resting rig for 5 minutes, then thinly slice it on an angle, across the grain.Yield: 6 servingsSoftware: 1 cup chopped yellow onion 1 cup chopped yellow onion 4 cloves minced garlic cup white wine cup soy sauce 1 tablespoon honey 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon Worcesters.h.i.+re sauce teaspoon fresh minced ginger or teaspoon ground teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 flank steak (see Beef Blueprint Beef Blueprint) Hardw Food processor Food processor Large zip-top freezer bag Shallow tray or baking dish Broiler pan Resting rack

Broiled Chicken Salad

It's a good idea to occasionally leave home to cook in other people's kitchens. It's kind of like culinary Outward Bound: it forces you to focus, to improvise, to think. I recently found myself in just such a predicament.

I was working with an a.s.sociate at her house one day when hunger struck. Take out didn't ring true so, fancying myself a cook, I headed into the kitchen to "whip something up."

First I surveyed the refrigerated edibles and found the following: 1 whole chicken1 toy14 box cherry and yellow pear tomatoes box cherry and yellow pear tomatoesScallions (they're in every refrigerator, including yours, right now)1 bunch arugula (my friend often picks up farmstand items, which she then allows to rot in the refrigerator; luckily this bunch was perfect)1 (6-ounce) package Montrachet cheese

Next I checked out the hardware and what I found frightened me badly. It was as if one aluminum pie tin had been melted down and cast into 15 different pots and pans, each of which had then been adorned with a rotting balsa-wood handle.

Despite the fact that it had been built in the mid-1950s, the oven still had its broiler pan. Rock-solid and gleaming clean, I had found my port in a storm.

Next I perused the pantry. Here's what I found: A bottle of very nice garlic-flavored olive oil A jar of mixed whole olives (black and green, in brine) Half a loaf of good sourdough, stale, but not rocklike An old but viable-looking bottle of champagne vinegar

And on the counter: A peppermill

I heated the broiler. I found the biggest knife in the joint and b.u.t.terflied the chicken by placing the bird spine down on a large cutting board, inserting the knife in the cavity, and cutting straight down, first on one side of the spine then the other. Flipping the bird over I opened it up so that I could see the connective tissue over the keel (breast) bone. I made a shallow slit running from the junction of the wishbone down to the end of the breast, then folded the bird open so that the incision popped open revealing the bone beneath. This I levered out with my fingers on either side. The effect of all this is that I was left with a chicken as flat as a book with a broken binding. I moved the bird, breast up, to the broiling pan, lubed it with garlic oil, and seasoned it liberally with pepper and kosher salt (I always travel with a small supply).

The bird went under the broiler, second slot from the top.

After was.h.i.+ng every item the raw meat had even so much as looked at, I pitted a couple handfuls of olives (lay them on the counter, apply palm pressure, pop), sliced the tomatoes in half (about 1 cups total), and snipped 3 scallions to bits with a dull pair of scissors. All of which went into a bowl.

I checked on the chicken. Browning nicely but not burning-good.

Next I tore the bread into bite-size chunks.

Once the chicken was about as brown as it could stand to be (15 minutes), I flipped it over and let it finish cooking inside-up (another 10 minutes). I removed the pan from the oven and flipped the bird breast up again so that any juices that had pooled under the skin would run out and into the bottom pan. I covered the bird with foil and left it to give up the goods.

Washed the arugula (always sandy, like spinach) and wrapped it in paper towels to dry.

Removed bird and grate from the pan, revealing the drippings below. Tossed the bread hunks in the drippings, then put the pan back under the broiler. Every couple of minutes I checked on the frying nuggets, turning them until golden brown and delicious.15 Then they got tossed with a couple ounces of Montrachet, which the residual heat melted nicely. Then they got tossed with a couple ounces of Montrachet, which the residual heat melted nicely.

While the broiler pan was still hot, I tossed in the olives, tomatoes, and scallions, seasoned the lot with salt and pepper, and sent it back under the broiler until the tomatoes started to take on a little color (10 minutes tops).

Meanwhile, I cut the chicken into 8 pieces: 2 legs, 2 thighs, 2 split breast halves.

I removed the pan from the oven and dumped the arugula (3 cups, I'd say) right on top. Tossed this with tongs (if she hadn't had those I'd have been in trouble) until the arugula barely started to wilt. Cooled it down with a few splashes of the vinegar, then tossed in the cheesy croutons. Plated the salad and served with the chicken chunks on top.

Mighty tasty indeed. And I'd never have done it at home.

Get Breakfast I learned to love broiling in college, when I lived in an apartment with an oven that wouldn't do anything else. Here is a breakfast I developed there (and please cut me a little slack, will you? I was in college and worked at a pizza place).

Application: BroilingRemove hash browns from freezer to a sink full of water to thaw. Go back to bed. Get up half an hour later and drain the potatoes. (I didn't have a salad spinner back then so I wrapped them in paper towels to dry.)Turn on the broiler and heat the skillet. (Since I used to keep the skillet under the broiler, this was a no-brainer. Also, the oven only had one shelf and it was stuck in the slot next to the top. No wonder I broiled a lot.)In a mixing bowl, beat 2 of the eggs. Add the hash browns along with the spinach. Toss with plenty of kosher salt.Using fireproof gloves, retrieve the hot skillet, coat it with oil, and spoon in the potato mixture. Pack it down into the corners and spoon the salsa on top. Slide the skillet back under the broiler, and cook for 12 to 15 minutes or until the tomatoes just start to brown.Retrieve the skillet, sprinkle with a handful of cheese, and crack the remaining 4 eggs on top. Sprinkle with more salt and drizzle with some oil. Place the pan back under the broiler and remove it as soon as the egg whites set, about 4 to 5 minutes.Place in middle of kitchen table. Shake on the chili flakes, hand a fork to whoever's there, eat, and wash it down with the flat beer. (You can leave this step out, but that's the way it happened.)Yield: 4 servingsSoftware: 1-pound 12-ounce package frozen 1-pound 12-ounce package frozen Ore-Ida hash browns 6 eggs of 14-ounce box frozen spinach, thawed Kosher salt Olive oil (stolen from pizza place) Salsa (leftovers) cup shredded mozzarella cheese (okay, I stole that, too) Chili flakes (ditto) bottle flat beer Hardware: 10- to 12-inch cast-iron skillet 10- to 12-inch cast-iron skillet Mixing bowl Fireproof gloves

Tres Amigos Application: BroilingLay the fish on a cutting board and very carefully slice down the length of the filets into 8 thin strips of salmon and 8 strips of halibut. Preheat the broiler. Season the fish and scallops with salt and pepper. Lay one strip of salmon on the board and overlap it with halibut about halfway down. Beginning at the top of the salmon strip, wrap the scallop with the fish strips, forming a bi-colored "rose" of fish with a scallop in the center. Using tongs, gently place the wrapped scallops on a broiler pan and top each with a slice of the compound b.u.t.ter. Cook 4 inches below the broiler for 7 minutes. The fish will be perfectly cooked through and the scallop will be just underdone (which is perfect for this type of seafood).Yield: 8 appetizer portionsSoftware: pound salmon filet pound salmon filet pound halibut filet 8 sea scallops (21- to 25-per-pound is a great size for this recipe, but you can go with U-10s if you like really big scallops; see Shrimp Smarts Shrimp Smarts) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Herbed Compound b.u.t.ter Hardware: Sharp thin knife (such as a filet Sharp thin knife (such as a filet knife or slicer) Broiler pan TongsThis is a very cool dish, not only because it tastes good, but because it scares the heck out of people. On the plate, it looks like it was very difficult to make, which-of course-it's not.

Chicksicles Kebob makers tend to squeeze their food-on-a-stick pieces too tightly together. This does nothing but slow the cooking process. It's okay for these pieces to touch, but just barely.

Application: Broiling or GrillingPlace coriander and c.u.min in a heavy dry skillet and toast, tossing occasionally, over high heat. When the seeds just start to smoke, remove from the heat and pour onto a plate to cool. Then grind in a mortar with a pestle, or an electric coffee grinder. Combine the c.u.min and coriander with other spices and sugar in a small bowl.Another great way to toast whole spices? A hot-air popcorn popper.

Chop the peanuts in a food processor until they're the size of small crumbs. Add the spices to the processor. While pulsing, add the oils and process to form a paste.Rub the paste on the chicken pieces. Cover and refrigerate overnight.Thread the chicken pieces onto skewers.Heat the broiler and move the rack into position so that the chicken will be within 4 inches of the burner. Or fire up a grill or hibachi. Lay the skewers directly over the heat and cook, turning often until paste is dark and chicken cooked through.Yield: 4 to 8 kebobs, depending on the size of the skewersNote: Metal skewers are best because, unlike bamboo, they don't have the nasty habit of catching on fire. That said, bamboo brings a certain authenticity to the party. So, to prevent forest fires, you can do one of two things: Metal skewers are best because, unlike bamboo, they don't have the nasty habit of catching on fire. That said, bamboo brings a certain authenticity to the party. So, to prevent forest fires, you can do one of two things:* Hit the hibachi. Most hibachi-style grills have grates that stand above the side of the grill. This makes it possible for the meat to lie flat on the grate while the skewers stick straight out to the side.* Soak the skewers. This is a fine idea as long as you're going to cook right away, but if you plan on skewering and refrigerating, odds are good the woodworks will again be flammable by the time bird meets burner.

Software: 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 2 teaspoons c.u.min seeds teaspoon curry powder teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons sugar cup peanuts (or more to taste) 2 tablespoons sesame oil 2 tablespoons neutral vegetable oil 2 pounds chicken breast, cut into 1-inch cubes or -inch slices Hardware Heavy-bottom skillet Heavy-bottom skillet Mortar wth pestle, or coffee grinder Small bowl Food processor Metal or bamboo skewers (see Note Note) Broiler and broiler pan, or gas or charcoal grill

Scampi V1.0 Application: BroilingHeat the broiler and position the rack to about 5 inches below the heat source. Arrange the shrimp in the broiler pan so there is no overlapping. Drizzle the oil and scatter the garlic over the shrimp and season with salt, pepper, and Old Bay. Put the pan under the broiler for 2 minutes, until the shrimp begin to turn pink. Sir in the lemon juice, add the panko and parsley, and toss to coat the shrimp evenly. Return to the broiler and cook until the bread crumbs are evenly brown. Serve immediately.(Alternatively, saute the shrimp in the oil and garlic and, when they are almost finished, season with salt, pepper, and Old Bay and deglaze the pan with the lemon juice and toss in the panko and parsley. Cook just until the shrimp are done. In my experience, this is the way you'll find the dish prepared in most restaurants, but broiling is the cla.s.sic method and gives a much better flavor and texture.)Yield: 2 entree servings or 4 appetizer servings Software: 1 pound peeled and deveined large 1 pound peeled and deveined large shrimp 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon minced garlic Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper Old Bay seasoning 4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice cup panko (j.a.panese bread crumbs) 2 tablespoons chopped parsley Hardware: Broiler pan Broiler pan Shallow gla.s.s baking dish or an ovenproof saute pan

SHRIMP SMARTS.

When shopping for shrimp, focus on numbers, not labels. Shrimp are sized and sorted into count weights. The higher the number, the smaller the shrimp: 50/60 means 50 to 60 tails per pound. The largest shrimp have a "U" before the number, signifying that there are fewer than that number per pound: U/12 means that there are 12 or fewer shrimp per pound. Though they serve as rough guidelines, labels like "jumbo" or "medium" aren't very telling, as they're not standardized.