Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World Part 17

Sunday, 13th. Moderate breezes and Clear weather. Variation 5 degrees 40 minutes East. Wind East by North; course South 16 degrees East; distance 96 miles; lat.i.tude 21 degrees 47 minutes South, longitude 151 degrees 9 minutes West.

Monday, 14th. Fresh breezes and fair weather. At 2 p.m. saw land bearing South-East, which Tupia calls the Island of Ohetiroa.* (* Rurutu, one of the Tubuai or Austral Group. They are now under French protectorate.) At 6 was within 2 or 3 Leagues of it, the Extreams bearing from South by East to South-East; shortned sail and stood off and on all night; at 6 a.m. made Sail and stood in for the Land and run to Leeward of the Island, keeping close in sh.o.r.e all the time, saw several of the Natives as we run along sh.o.r.e, but in no great numbers. At 9 hoisted out the Pinnace and sent Lieutenant Gore, Mr. Banks, and Tupia to Endeavour to land upon the Island, and to speak with the Natives, and to try if they could learn from them what lands lay to the Southward of us, and likewise to see if there was Anchorage in a Bay which appear'd to our View, not that I intended to Anchor or make any stay here. Wind North-North-East; lat.i.tude 22 degrees 26 minutes South, longitude 150 degrees 55 minutes West; at noon, Ohetiroa East 2 leagues.

Tuesday, 15th. Fresh breezes and fair weather. At 2 p.m. the Pinnace return'd on board without landing, not but what it was practicable, but they did not think it Altogether safe with only one Boat, as it would have been attended with some danger on account of the Surf and Rocks upon the Sh.o.r.e. The Natives were Arm'd, and Shewd no Signs either of fear or Friends.h.i.+p. Some of them came off to the Boat in a Canoe, and had some Nails and Beads given them; but with these they were not Satisfied, thinking they had a right to everything in the Boat, and at last grew so Troublesome that in order to get clear of them our People were obliged to fire some Musquets, but with no intent to hurt any of them; however, it so hapned that one Man was Slightly wounded in the head. The firing had the desired effect, and they thought fit to retire. After this, as the Boat lay near the Sh.o.r.e, some of them waded off to her, and brought with them some Trifles which they parted with for small Nails, etc. They seem'd desirous that our people should land, but this was looked upon as a Piece of Policy in them to get the whole Boat's Crew in their power; however, this was not attempted, as I had given orders to run no Risk. The Bay they went into, which lies on the West side of the Island, had in it 25 fathoms Water, but the bottom was very foul and Rocky. We had now made the Circuit of the Island (which did not appear to the best advantage), and found that there was neither a Harbour or safe Anchorage about it, and therefore I thought the Landing upon it would be attended with no advantage either to ourselves or any future navigators; and from the Hostile and thievish disposition of the Natives it appear'd that we could have no friendly intercourse with them until they had felt the Smart of our fire Arms, a thing that would have been very unjustifiable in me at this Time; we therefore hoisted in the Boat, and made Sail to the Southward.

[Of the Austral Group.]

This Island is situated in the Lat.i.tude of 22 degrees 27 minutes South, and in the Longitude of 150 degrees 47 minutes West from the Meridian of Greenwich.* (* Lat.i.tude is correct. Longitude 151 degrees 20 minutes West.) It is 13 miles in Circuit, and tolerably high; it appears to be neither Populous nor fertile; its produce seem'd to be nearly the same as the other Islands we have touched at, and likewise the Stature, Colour, Habit, and Arms of the Natives, only that some of them wore Pieces of Cloth like broad belts, different both in Shape and Colour to anything of the kind we had seen before, and their Arms, and in general everything they had about them, much neater made, and shew'd great proofs of an ingenious fancy. Tupia says that their are several Islands laying at different directions from this--that is, from the South to the West and North-West--and that 3 days' sail to the North-East is an Island called Manua, that is Bird Island, and that it lies 4 days' sail from Ulietea, which is one day less than from Ulietea to Ohetiroa.* (* Tupia was right except with respect to Manua, as there is no island answering his description.) From this account I shall be able to find the Situation of Manua pretty well. Since we have left Ulietea Tupia hath been very desirous for us to steer to the Westward, and tells us if we will go that way we shall be with plenty of Islands: the most of them he himself hath been at, and from the discription he gives of two of them they must be those discover'd by Capt. Wallace, and by him called Boscawen and Keppel's Islands, and those do not lay less than 400 Leagues to the Westward of Ulietea. He says that they are 10 or 12 days in going thither, and 30 or more in coming Back, and that their Pahies--that is their large Proes--sails much faster than this s.h.i.+p. All this I believe to be true, and therefore they may with Ease sail 40 Leagues a day or more.

The farthest Island to the Southward that Tupia hath been at, or knows anything of, lies but 2 days' Sail from Ohetiroa, and is called Moutou,* (* Tubuai.) but he says that his father once told him that there was Islands to the Southward of it; but we Cannot find that he either knows or ever heard of a Continent or large Track of Land. I have no reason to doubt Tupia's information of these Islands, for when we left Ulietea and steer'd to the Southward he told us that if we would keep a little more to the East (which the wind would not permit us to do) we should see Manua, but as we then steer'd we should see Ohetiroa, which hapned accordingly. If we meet with the Islands to the Southward he speaks off, it's well, but if not, I shall spend no more time searching for them, being now fully resolv'd to stand directly to the Southward in search of a Continent. Wind Northerly; course South 1/2 East; distance 94 miles; lat.i.tude 24 degrees 1 minute South, longitude 150 degrees 37 minutes West; at noon, Ohetiroa North 1/2 West, 31 leagues; variation 6 degrees 7 minutes East.

NOTE. As we advanced to the Southward into Cold weather, and a troubled Sea, the Hogs we got at Ulietea began to die apace. They cannot endure the least cold, nor will they hardly eat anything but vegetables, so that they are not at all to be depended upon at Sea. The fowls also have a complaint general among them which affects their heads, so that they continue holding it down betwixt their Legs until they die; this at least was the fate of most of ours. This is necessary to be known to those who come such Voyages as these, least they place too much dependance on the live stock they get at the Islands.

Wednesday, 16th. Fresh breezes and Cloudy the first part; in the night, Squally, with rain; remainder, moderate and fair weather. At 8 am, saw the Appearances of high land to the Eastward; bore up towards it, but at 10 we discover'd it to be only Clouds, at which we hauld our wind to the Southward. At Noon found the s.h.i.+p by Observation 21 Miles to the Northward of the Log, which may in some measure be owing to a South-West swell we have had all the last 24 hours. Wind North by West, West, West by South; course South 15 degrees East; distance 62 miles; lat.i.tude 25 degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 150 degrees 19 minutes West.

Thursday, 17th. A Gentle breeze with some flying showers of rain. Had a large Swell from the South-West all this day, much larger than yesterday, and this must be the reason why the observ'd Lat.i.tude differ'd from the Log again to day 16 miles. Wind West by South to South-West by South; course South-South-East; distance 76 miles; lat.i.tude 26 degrees 10 minutes South, longitude 149 degrees 46 minutes West.

Friday, 18th. The first part Calm; remainder light breezes and Clear. Variation per Amplitude in the evening 8 degrees 8 minutes East; in the Morning 7 degrees 56 minutes East. Carpenters employed repairing the Boats. The South-West swell still Continues, but not so much as Yesterday, and the observed Lat.i.tude and Log agrees. Wind Calm, North; course South 18 degrees East; distance 38 miles; lat.i.tude 26 degrees 48 minutes South, longitude 149 degrees 42 minutes West.

Sat.u.r.day, 19th. Little wind with much rain in the night, the South-West swell still Continues, from which I conclude that there is no land near us in that Quarter. Wind North-West; course South-East by South; distance 62 miles; lat.i.tude 27 degrees 40 minutes South; longitude 149 degrees 6 minutes West.

Sunday, 20th. Little wind all this day. Saw a large Albetross. Wind North-West; course South-East by South; distance 57 miles; lat.i.tude 28 degrees 24 minutes South, longitude 148 degrees 25 minutes West.

Monday, 21st. Fresh Gales and Hazey weather. Saw 2 Pintado Birds, the first I have seen this Voyage; they are larger than a Pidgeon and checquer'd black and white over their backs and wings, with white Bellies, Black heads, and the end of their Tails black.* (* Cape pigeons, Daption Capensis.) Wind North-North-West; course South by East; distance 80 miles; lat.i.tude 29 degrees 44 minutes South, longitude 148 degrees 22 minutes West.

[Society Islands to New Zealand.]

Tuesday, 22nd. First part Strong Gales with much rain, Thunder, and Lightning; remainder moderate and fair weather. About Noon saw some rock weed, an Albetross, and some Smaller Sea Birds. Wind North by West, South-West by West; course South 14 degrees East; distance 81 miles; lat.i.tude 31 degrees 3 minutes South, longitude 148 degrees 00 minutes West.

Wednesday, 23rd. Little wind for the most part, and pretty clear weather. In the night had some Showers of rain. Saw a Grampus, and several Pintado Birds. Wind South-West to West-South-West; course South-South-East; distance 68 miles; lat.i.tude 31 degrees 6 minutes South; longitude 147 degrees 29 minutes West.

Thursday, 24th. The first part light Airs and Calm; Middle, moderate breezes and Cloudy; latter part very squally with rain. A.M. Variation per Azimuth 7 degrees 18 minutes East. At Noon took in the Topsails and got down Topgallant yards. Saw a Water Spout in the North-West; it was about the breadth of a Rainbow, of a dark Colour, the Upper end of the Cloud from whence it came was about 8 degrees above the Horizon. Wind Variable; course South-South-East; distance 41 miles; lat.i.tude 32 degrees 44 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 10 minutes West.

Friday, 25th. The first and middle part Strong Gales and Squally with rain, remainder moderate and Cloudy. P.M. Unbent the Maintopsail being Split and bent another; in the night lay too under the Foresail, and in the morning made sail under the Courses and Topsails with one reef only. Had a large Sea from the Southward, saw several Albetrosses, Pintado Birds, and Sheer Waters; some of the Albetrosses were small, such as we usually saw off Cape Horn; all these kinds of birds are generally seen at a great distance from land. Wind, Southerly; course North-West; distance 26 miles; lat.i.tude 32 degrees 26 minutes South; longitude 147 degrees 32 minutes West.

Sat.u.r.day, 26th. Moderate and cloudy weather, a Swell from the South-West. By observation of the Sun and Moon made this morning, the Longitude of the s.h.i.+p at Noon is 147 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds, which differs but 11 minutes from that given by the Log. Wind South-West; course South 6 degrees East; South distance 13 miles; lat.i.tude 32 degrees 39 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 30 minutes West.

Sunday, 27th. First part little wind and Cloudy; latter part, fresh Gales and Clear weather. Variation per Azimuth 6 degrees 40 minutes East. Saw several Albetrosses, Pintado Birds and Sheer Waters. Wind West, North-North-West; course South 5 degrees East; distance 55 miles; lat.i.tude 33 degrees 34 minutes, longitude 147 degrees 25 minutes.

Monday, 28th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy, with rain on the Latter part. At 10 departed this Life Jno. Rearden,* (* John Reading.) Boatswain's Mate; his Death was occasioned by the Boatswain out of mere good Nature giving him part of a Bottle of Rum last night, which it is supposed he drank all at once. He was found to be very much in Liquor last night, but as this was no more than what was common with him when he could get any, no farther notice was taken of him than to put him to Bed, where this morning about 8 o'clock he was found Speechless and past recovery. Wind Northerly; course South; distance 110 miles; lat.i.tude 35 degrees 34 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 25 minutes West.

Tuesday, 29th. Fore and Middle parts fresh Gales and Dark, Hazey weather with some rain. At 5 a.m. saw a Comet in the North. Wind North-West to South-West; course South 1/4 East; distance 96 miles; lat.i.tude 37 degrees 0 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 21 minutes West.

Wednesday, 30th. Fresh breeze and fair weather. At 1 a.m. saw the Comet a little above the Horizon in the East. It pa.s.s'd the Meridian about 1/2 past 4; the Tail of the Comet Subtended an Angle of 42 degrees. At 8 a.m. Variation per Azimuth 7 degrees 9 minutes East. Bent another suit of Sails. Saw a piece of Rock weed, Some Pintado birds and Sheer Waters and a Green bird something smaller than a Dove, but it was not near enough to distinguish whether it was a Sea or Land bird; it was only seen by one Person, and he probably was Mistaken in the Colour. A Swell from the South-West, Wind Westerly; course South 3/4 East; distance 81 miles; lat.i.tude 38 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 6 minutes West.

Thursday, 31st. The first part a fresh breeze and cloudy. At 6 p.m. hauld the wind to the South-West and close reefd the Topsails. At 1 a.m. being very squally with rain, took in the Topsails and brought too under the Mainsail. At 6 made Sail under the Courses. Saw some seaweed, sounded, but had no ground at 65 fathoms of Line. Some Albetrosses, Sheer Waters, and a great many Pintado Birds about the s.h.i.+p with some hundreds of Birds that were smaller than Pidgeons, their backs were grey, their Bellies white, and the ends of their Tails black, and have a blackish line along the upper parts of the wings from the Tip of one to the other. We saw birds very like those near Faulklands Islands on the Coast of Patagonia, only they had not the black streak along the wings; they fly low like sheer waters or mother Carys birds, and are perhaps of the same Tribe, for Distinction sake I shall call them Doves.* (* Probably petrels of the genus Prion.) Wind Westerly; course South 4 degrees 15 minutes East; distance 68 miles; lat.i.tude 39 degrees 28 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 0 minutes West.

[September 1769.]

Friday, September 1st. Very strong Gales and heavy Squalls with rain; at 6 p.m. brought too under the Main Sail. At 6 a.m. set the Foresail, a Great Sea from the Westward. The same sort of Birds about the s.h.i.+p as Yesterday, but not in such great Numbers. Wind, Westerly; Course, South 29 degrees East; distance 50 miles; lat.i.tude 40 degrees 12 minutes South, longitude 146 degrees 29 minutes West.

Sat.u.r.day, 2nd. Very strong Gales, with heavy squalls of Wind, hail, and rain. At 4 p.m., being in the Lat.i.tude of 40 degrees 22 minutes South, and having not the least Visible signs of land, we wore, and brought too under the Foresail, and reef'd the Mainsail, and handed it. I did intend to have stood to the Southward if the winds had been Moderate, so long as they continued Westerly, notwithstanding we had no prospect of meeting with land, Rather than stand back to the Northward, on the same Track as we came, but as the weather was so very Tempestious I laid aside this design, and thought it more adviseable to stand to the Northward into better weather, least we should receive such Damage in our Sails and Rigging as might hinder the further Prosecutions of the Voyage.* (* This long excursion to the south is a fine instance of Cook's thoroughness and determination in exploration. The belief in a southern continent was strong amongst most geographers; but it rested on nothing more than the false idea that dry lands in the two hemispheres should balance one another. Cook himself did not share the general belief; and few others in his position would have struggled for 1500 miles out of his direct course into bad weather, simply to disprove an idea, when so much unexplored ocean lay before him to the westward, with a fair wind and fine weather.) Some Albetrosses, Pintado birds, and Doves about the s.h.i.+p, and a Bird larger than a Duck, his plumage of a Dark Brown, with a Yellow beak. We saw of these Birds in our Pa.s.sage to the Northward, after doubling Cape Horn. At Noon the weather was more moderate; set the Reefd Mainsail. A great Sea from the West-South-West. Wind West; Course North 54 degrees 30 minutes East; distance 46 miles; lat.i.tude 39 degrees 45 minutes South, longitude 145 degrees 39 minutes West.

Sunday, 3rd. The fore and Middle parts fresh gales, with hard Squalls; Latter more moderate. At 5 a.m. loos'd the Reef out of the Mainsail, and set the Topsail double reef'd, and before noon had all the Reefs out. Wind Westerly; course North; distance 50 miles; lat.i.tude 38 degrees 54 minutes South, longitude 145 degrees 39 minutes West.

Monday, 4th. First and latter parts, little wind and Cloudy; in the night Calm. Very few Birds about the s.h.i.+p. Wind Westerly; course North by East; distance 26 miles; lat.i.tude 38 degrees 29 minutes South, longitude 145 degrees 32 minutes West.

Tuesday, 5th. Fresh breezes and Cloudy weather. At 2 p.m. saw a piece of rock Weed. Variation, per Azimuth 7 degrees 0 minutes East. Wind West to North-West; course North 32 West; distance 44 miles; lat.i.tude 37 degrees 52 minutes South, longitude 146 degrees 2 minutes West.

Wednesday, 6th. Fresh Gales and Squally, with rain. At Noon saw a Bird which was all white, except the Tip of each Wing; it was nearly as big as an Albetross. We saw 2 of these Birds in Lat.i.tude 19 degrees before we Arrived at George's Island. Wind Westerly; course South 87 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 70 miles; lat.i.tude 37 degrees 49 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 30 West.

Thursday, 7th. Fresh Gales and hard squalls, with rain. At 3 p.m. saw something upon the Water, which must either have been a Billet of Wood or a Seal. At Noon a hard gale and Squally, which obliged us to take in the Topsails. Wind Westerly; course South 80 degrees West; distance 15 miles; lat.i.tude 37 degrees 52 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 49 minutes West.

Friday, 8th. P.M. very strong gales and Squally. A.M. more moderate; set the Topsails. At Noon the Observed Lat.i.tude was 13 Miles to the North of the Log. This I take to be owing to the great Sea we have had constantly of Late from the South-West. Wind Westerly; course North 1/4 East; distance 76 miles; lat.i.tude 36 degrees 36 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 40 minutes West.

Sat.u.r.day, 9th. Moderate breezes and dark, cloudy weather, sometimes Hazey, with Drizling Rain. Wind South-East; course North 77 degrees West; distance 76 miles; lat.i.tude 36 degrees 19 minutes South, longitude 149 degrees 12 minutes West.

Sunday, 10th. Fresh breezes and cloudy. At 9 a.m. we thought the Colour of the Sea was paler than Usual, which occasioned us to sound, but had no ground with 100 fathoms. Wind South-West, West-South-West; course North 52 degrees West; distance 97 miles; lat.i.tude 35 degrees 19 minutes South, longitude 150 degrees 46 minutes West.

Monday, 11th. Fresh breezes, and for the most part thick, hazey weather, with rain. Wind South-West; course North 43 degrees West; distance 87 miles; lat.i.tude 34 degrees 15 minutes South, longitude 152 degrees 00 minutes West.

Tuesday, 12th. Fresh breezes and cloudy; a swell from the South-South-West. Some Albetrosses and Pintado Birds about the s.h.i.+p. Wind Westerly; course North 30 degrees West; distance 73 miles; lat.i.tude 33 degrees 12 minutes South, longitude 152 degrees 44 minutes West.

Wednesday, 13th. Gentle breezes, with some flying Showers. At 6 p.m. Variation per Azimuth, 8 degrees 8 minutes East. Note, while we was between the Lat.i.tude of 37 and 40 degrees we had constantly blowing Tempestious weather, but since we have been to the Northward of 37 degrees, the weather hath been very moderate. Wind South-West and West-South-West; course North-North-West; distance 74 miles; lat.i.tude 32 degrees 3 minutes South, longitude 153 degrees 16 minutes West.

Thursday, 14th. Gentle breezes, and sometimes Calm. A Swell from the South-South-West. Wind Variable; course South 86 degrees West; distance 33 miles; lat.i.tude 32 degrees 5 minutes South, longitude 153 degrees 54 minutes West.

Friday, 15th. First part, moderate and Cloudy, remainder Strong Gales and Squally. Several Albetrosses, Pintado Birds, and Sheer Waters about the s.h.i.+p; some of the Albetrosses were all White. Wind North-East to South-East; course South 77 West; distance 139 miles; lat.i.tude 32 degrees 36 minutes South, longitude 156 degrees 34 minutes West.

Sat.u.r.day, 16th. First part very strong Gales and Squally; remainder more moderate, with a large Swell from the Southward. Wind South-South-East, South, West-South-West; course North 60 degrees West; distance 100 miles; lat.i.tude 31 degrees 45 minutes South, longitude 158 degrees 16 minutes West.

Sunday, 17th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy. Wind South-West; course North 25 West; distance 100 miles; lat.i.tude 31 degrees 14 minutes South, longitude 159 degrees 6 minutes West.

Monday, 18th. Moderate Gales and Cloudy, with a Swell from the Southward. Wind Westerly; course North by West 1/2 West; distance 78 miles; lat.i.tude 29 degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 159 degrees 32 minutes West.

Tuesday, 19th. Variable; light Airs and Calm. Variation per Amplitude at sunset, 8 degrees 36 minutes East; per Azimuth in the morning, 8 degrees 29 minutes East; mean, 8 degrees 32 1/2 minutes East. A large hollow swell from the Southward. Wind Variable; course East; distance 6 miles; lat.i.tude 29 degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 159 degrees 25 minutes West.

Wednesday, 20th. Light Airs and Calm. Wind Variable; course South-West by South; distance 20 miles; lat.i.tude 29 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude 159 degrees 47 minutes West.

Thursday, 21st. Most part Gentle breezes and clear weather. Wind South Easterly; course South 50 degrees West; distance 62 miles; lat.i.tude 30 degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 160 degrees 42 minutes West.

Friday, 22nd. Fresh breezes and Cloudy. The Southerly swell still Continues, from which I conjecture that there is no land near in that Direction. Wind South-East; course South 34 West; distance 81 miles; lat.i.tude 31 degrees 7 minutes South, longitude 161 degrees 35 minutes West.

Sat.u.r.day, 23rd. Gentle breezes and Cloudy weather. Wind South-East; course South-West by South; distance 62 miles; lat.i.tude 31 degrees 59 minutes South, longitude 162 degrees 44 minutes West.

Sunday, 24th. Moderate breezes and Cloudy. At Noon saw some sea-Weed. The Southerly swell is now quite gone down. Wind South-East to North-East; course South 35 West; distance 97 miles; lat.i.tude 33 degrees 18 minutes South, longitude 162 degrees 51 minutes West.

Monday, 25th. Ditto weather. At 1 p.m. pa.s.sed by a Piece of Wood, about 3 feet long and 7 or 8 Inches thick. Variation at 6 p.m. per Azimuth, 10 degrees 48 minutes East. A.M., got up all the Boatswain's Stores, to take an account of them. Wind North-East; course South 43 1/2 West; distance 103 miles; lat.i.tude 34 degrees 30 minutes South, longitude 165 degrees 10 minutes West.