Lidia Cooks From The Heart Of Italy Part 7

Tortellini di Ricotta Makes about 180 tortellini, serving 9 or more, with cooking and finis.h.i.+ng instructions to serve 4 Makes about 180 tortellini, serving 9 or more, with cooking and finis.h.i.+ng instructions to serve 4 Tortellini are probably the best-known and most popular of the many forms of filled pasta for which Emilia-Romagna is famous. Although they are made all over the region, tortellini are the special pride of Bologna, where, according to food historians, they were first created centuries ago. When I visited the great artisa.n.a.l pasta-makers Renata Venturi and her daughters, Daniela and Monica, whom I mentioned in the introduction to this chapter, they showed me their techniques of hand-rolling and shaping tortellini in their marvelous pasta shop, Le Sfogline.

Though tortellini are sold (usually frozen) in most markets in the United States, the recipe here will give you a big batch of fresh homemade tortellini, far superior to anything you can buy at the store. And you will see how easy and enjoyable the shaping is, especially the final twist that gives each piece its distinctive shape.

Although meat-filled tortellini might come to mind first, I love this ricotta version, dressed with a simple tomato sauce, such as my Marinara Sauce. A more complex sauce, such as Raga alla Bolognese Raga alla Bolognese or mushroom or mushroom guazzetto guazzetto, would also be delicious, as would a simple dressing of sage and b.u.t.ter. (If you want to try other pasta shapes than tortellini, you can make tortelli tortelli or or tortellacci tortellacci with this ricotta-fontina filling.) with this ricotta-fontina filling.) - FOR THE FILLING AND MAKING THE TORTELLINI - 1 pound fresh ricotta fresh ricotta, drained - 8 ounces Italian fontina fontina, shredded - cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg nutmeg - 2 large eggs eggs - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 1 pounds dough for Homemade Tagliatelle Homemade Tagliatelle - All-purpose flour for rolling and forming the tortellini for rolling and forming the tortellini - FOR COOKING AND DRESSING 4 PORTIONS OF TORTELLINI - 2 cups Marinara Sauce Marinara Sauce - 1 cup or so freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing - A drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A pasta-rolling machine; a rotary pastry cutter or pizza wheel; a narrow pastry brush; trays or baking sheets lined with floured parchment or kitchen towels To make the filling: Stir together the ricotta, fontina, grated cheese, and nutmeg in a large bowl. In a small bowl, beat the eggs with the salt, pour them over the cheeses, and stir everything with a wooden spoon until thoroughly blended and smooth.

Cut the dough in six equal pieces. You'll make tortellini from one piece at a time; keep the others covered. Roll the first piece through the pasta machine at progressively wider settings, always keeping it lightly floured, until you've created a long strip, as wide as your machine allows, and a little less than inch thick.

Lay out the strip on a lightly floured surface and, with the fluted cutter, cut it lengthwise in thirds, to form three long narrow strips, each about 2 inches wide. Cut vertically through the strips at 2-inch (or smaller) intervals, forming small squares of pasta. You should have thirty or more squares in all. Remove excess bits of dough (which can be kneaded together, rested, and rerolled for more pasta).

Place a scant teaspoon of the filling in the center of each square. With the pastry brush (or your fingertip) dipped in water, lightly moisten the edges of the squares around the filling.

To form each tortellino: Pick up one square and fold it over on the diagonal, creating a triangle with the filling inside; press the moistened edges together to seal it well. Next, grasp in your fingers the corners of the base of the triangle (its long side), twist them inward so the points of dough overlap, and pinch them together. As you make the twist, the stretching of the dough will make the fluted edges and the opposite point of the triangle will pop up, creating the plump hatlike tortellini shape.

Fold and twist the rest of the squares into tortellini; set them in a single layer on a lined and floured tray. Make more tortellini from the other cut pieces of dough (and the rerolled sc.r.a.ps of dough, too). Tortellini that you will cook soon can be left on the tray, lightly covered. Freeze tortellini for future use right on the trays until solid, then transfer them to freezer bags, packed airtight and sealed.

To cook and serve tortellini with marinara sauce for four, you will need seventy to eighty tortellini (eighteen to twenty per serving, depending on pasta size and your guests' appet.i.tes).

Fill a large pasta pot with well-salted water and bring to the boil. Pour the Marinara Sauce into a large skillet or saute pan (at least 12 inches in diameter); heat sauce to a simmer when you start cooking the pasta.

Drop all the tortellini into the rapidly boiling water at once, stir, and return to the boil over high heat. Cook for about 3 minutes (longer if frozen), until the thickest part of the pasta is cooked through and slightly al dente. al dente. Lift them from the cooking pot with a spider, drain briefly, and lay them in the simmering sauce. Tumble the tortellini over and over for a minute or so, until all are coated and perfectly cooked. (Loosen the sauce, if it is thick, with hot pasta water, or thicken it quickly over higher heat if necessary.) Lift them from the cooking pot with a spider, drain briefly, and lay them in the simmering sauce. Tumble the tortellini over and over for a minute or so, until all are coated and perfectly cooked. (Loosen the sauce, if it is thick, with hot pasta water, or thicken it quickly over higher heat if necessary.) Turn off the heat, sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the tortellini-and a flourish of extra-virgin olive oil if you like-and toss gently. Spoon the tortellini into warm bowls, and serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.

CAPPELLACCI WITH S SQUASH F FILLING.

Cappellacci di Zucca Makes about 150 Makes about 150 cappellacci cappellacci, serving 8 or more, with cooking and finis.h.i.+ng instructions to serve 4 In Emilia-Romagna, zucca zucca (a pumpkinlike winter squash) is a traditional filling for (a pumpkinlike winter squash) is a traditional filling for cappellacci cappellacci, stuffed pastas that are folded and twisted like tortellini but slightly larger. b.u.t.ternut squash is the best subst.i.tute for Italian zucca zucca, though you must squeeze out all the moisture after cooking it. With the sweetness and texture of crushed amaretti cookies and hints of lemon and nutmeg, this is a delicious and versatile filling, great in tortellini and tortelli tortelli as well as as well as cappellacci. cappellacci.

Sage-infused melted b.u.t.ter is the customary (and perfect) dressing for this autumn and winter dish. For a variation, omit the sage, and brown the b.u.t.ter in a hot pan before drizzling it over the pasta.

- FOR THE FILLING AND MAKING THE CAPPELLACCI CAPPELLACCI - 1 large b.u.t.ternut squash b.u.t.ternut squash (about 3 pounds) (about 3 pounds) - 1 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 10 or more amaretti cookies amaretti cookies, imported from Italy - cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg nutmeg - 1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest lemon zest - 2 large eggs eggs, beaten - 1 pounds dough for Homemade Tagliatelle Homemade Tagliatelle - All-purpose flour for rolling and forming the for rolling and forming the cappellacci cappellacci - FOR COOKING AND DRESSING 4 PORTIONS OF CAPPELLACCI CAPPELLACCI - 8 tablespoons (1 stick) b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 12 fresh sage fresh sage leaves leaves - 1 cup or so freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A rimmed baking sheet; a food processor; a kitchen towel or cheesecloth; a pasta-rolling machine; a 2-inch-diameter round pastry or cookie cutter; a narrow pastry brush; trays or baking sheets lined with floured parchment or kitchen towels Heat the oven to 400 and arrange a rack in the center. Slice the squash lengthwise in half, and then quarters; scoop out and discard seeds. Arrange the wedges, peel side down, on the baking sheet, drizzle olive oil over the cut surfaces of the squash, and season with 1 teaspoons of the salt. Tent the squash with aluminum foil, place the sheet in the oven, and bake 45 minutes, or until the squash flesh is very soft.

Meanwhile, grind the amaretti cookies in a food processor-using more cookies if necessary-to make a full cup of fine-textured dry powder.

Let the squash cool, then scoop all the flesh from the skin and heap it on the towel or cheesecloth. Bring the edges of the cloth together, enclosing the vegetable, and hold the bundle over a bowl or the sink. Twist the cloth, tightening the towel and squeezing the liquid from the soft flesh. When you've pressed out all the moisture you can, turn the wrung-out squash into a large bowl, and stir and mash it up with a large wooden spoon. Add the ground amaretti, the remaining teaspoon salt, the grated cheese, nutmeg, and lemon zest, and stir them into the squash. Pour in the beaten eggs, and stir until thoroughly blended and smooth.

For the cappellacci: cappellacci: Cut the dough in six equal pieces and roll each out as described. Make Cut the dough in six equal pieces and roll each out as described. Make cappellacci cappellacci from one strip at a time. Lay it out in front of you on a lightly floured board. With the round cutter, cut as many 2-inch circles as you can from the dough strip, pressing firmly and occasionally dipping the sharp edge of the cutter in flour so it doesn't stick. Separate the circles, pulling away the sc.r.a.ps of dough (which can be kneaded together, rested, and rerolled for more pasta). You should get about two dozen circles from the strip. from one strip at a time. Lay it out in front of you on a lightly floured board. With the round cutter, cut as many 2-inch circles as you can from the dough strip, pressing firmly and occasionally dipping the sharp edge of the cutter in flour so it doesn't stick. Separate the circles, pulling away the sc.r.a.ps of dough (which can be kneaded together, rested, and rerolled for more pasta). You should get about two dozen circles from the strip.

Place a heaping teaspoon of squash filling in the center of each dough circle. With the pastry brush (or your fingertip) dipped in water, lightly moisten the rim of dough around the filling.

To form the cappellacci: cappellacci: Pick up a circle and fold it over into a half-round envelope, with the filling inside. Press the moistened edges of dough together to seal. Next, grasp the corners of the semicircle, twist them inward so the points of dough overlap, and pinch them together. Pick up a circle and fold it over into a half-round envelope, with the filling inside. Press the moistened edges of dough together to seal. Next, grasp the corners of the semicircle, twist them inward so the points of dough overlap, and pinch them together.

Fold and twist all the filled circles into cappellacci cappellacci, arranging them in a single layer on a lined and floured tray. Make more cappellacci cappellacci from the other rolled strips of dough (and the rerolled sc.r.a.ps of dough, too). from the other rolled strips of dough (and the rerolled sc.r.a.ps of dough, too). Cappellacci Cappellacci that you will cook soon can be left on the tray, lightly covered. Freeze that you will cook soon can be left on the tray, lightly covered. Freeze cappellacci cappellacci for future use right on the trays until solid, then transfer them to freezer bags, packed airtight and sealed. for future use right on the trays until solid, then transfer them to freezer bags, packed airtight and sealed.

To cook and serve cappellacci cappellacci for four, you will need sixty to seventy pieces. Fill a large pasta pot with well-salted water, and bring to the boil. Meanwhile, put the b.u.t.ter and sage leaves in a large skillet or saute pan (at least 12 inches in diameter), and melt b.u.t.ter over low heat; keep the sauce warm-but not cooking-so the herb infuses the b.u.t.ter. for four, you will need sixty to seventy pieces. Fill a large pasta pot with well-salted water, and bring to the boil. Meanwhile, put the b.u.t.ter and sage leaves in a large skillet or saute pan (at least 12 inches in diameter), and melt b.u.t.ter over low heat; keep the sauce warm-but not cooking-so the herb infuses the b.u.t.ter.

Drop all the cappellacci cappellacci into the rapidly boiling water, stir, and return to the boil over high heat. Cook for 3 minutes or longer, until the thickest part of the pasta is cooked through. Lift out into the rapidly boiling water, stir, and return to the boil over high heat. Cook for 3 minutes or longer, until the thickest part of the pasta is cooked through. Lift out cappellacci cappellacci with a spider, drain, and lay them in the pan of sage b.u.t.ter. with a spider, drain, and lay them in the pan of sage b.u.t.ter.

Tumble the cappellacci cappellacci over and over until all are coated; add a few tablespoons of pasta cooking water to extend the sauce if necessary. Sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the over and over until all are coated; add a few tablespoons of pasta cooking water to extend the sauce if necessary. Sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the cappellacci cappellacci, and spoon them into warm bowls. Drizzle a bit of the sage b.u.t.ter left in the pan over each portion, and serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.

TORTELLI WITH C CABBAGE OR CHARD F FILLING.

Tortelli di Verza o Tortelli di Bietola Makes about 50 Makes about 50 tortelli tortelli, serving 6, with cooking and finis.h.i.+ng instructions to serve 4 Tortelli are filled pasta squares, like ravioli. These are the largest of the pasta shapes in this chapter-you need only eight to ten pieces per serving-and the simplest to make, too, since they need no twisting. are filled pasta squares, like ravioli. These are the largest of the pasta shapes in this chapter-you need only eight to ten pieces per serving-and the simplest to make, too, since they need no twisting.

Here I give you two savory tortelli tortelli fillings that I discovered in Emilia-Romagna. The techniques for making fillings that I discovered in Emilia-Romagna. The techniques for making tortelli tortelli are the same for this cabbage-and-pancetta filling and for the chard-ricotta filling that follows. (You can also make are the same for this cabbage-and-pancetta filling and for the chard-ricotta filling that follows. (You can also make tortelli tortelli with the fillings I give you for with the fillings I give you for anolini anolini, tortellini, and cappellacci. cappellacci.) As I often say, homemade pasta is so good that you need nothing more than b.u.t.ter (or extra-virgin olive oil) and cheese to dress it. So, in the master recipe, I dress the cabbage-filled tortelli tortelli with just melted b.u.t.ter (as is customary in the north of Italy)-I would do the same with the chard-filled with just melted b.u.t.ter (as is customary in the north of Italy)-I would do the same with the chard-filled tortelli. tortelli. You could also dress them with a light tomato sauce, such as the Romagnola or my Marinara Sauce. And if you are making a meat roast or roast chicken for the same meal, the juices and drippings from the roasting pan would make a splendid dressing for your tortelli. You could also dress them with a light tomato sauce, such as the Romagnola or my Marinara Sauce. And if you are making a meat roast or roast chicken for the same meal, the juices and drippings from the roasting pan would make a splendid dressing for your tortelli.

- FOR THE CABBAGE FILLING AND MAKING THE TORTELLI TORTELLI - A 2-pound head Savoy cabbage Savoy cabbage - 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 4 ounces pancetta pancetta, finely chopped - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 3 cups simmering water water - 1 large egg egg - 1 cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg nutmeg - 1 pounds dough for Homemade Tagliatelle Homemade Tagliatelle - All-purpose flour for rolling and forming the for rolling and forming the tortelli tortelli - FOR COOKING AND DRESSING 4 PORTIONS OF TORTELLI TORTELLI - 8 tablespoons (1 stick) b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 1 cup or so freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger, with a cover; a pasta-rolling machine; a rotary pastry cutter or pizza wheel; a narrow pastry brush; trays or baking sheets lined with floured parchment or kitchen towels To make the cabbage filling: Trim away tough or blemished leaves from the head of cabbage, cut out the entire core, and slice the head in quarters. With a sharp, long-bladed knife, thinly slice the cabbage wedges. You should have about 3 quarts of very fine shreds.

Put the olive oil and the b.u.t.ter in the skillet, and set over medium heat. When the b.u.t.ter melts, scatter in the chopped pancetta; let it cook for a few minutes, stirring occasionally, as it sizzles and renders most of its fat.

Heap the shredded cabbage in the skillet, season with the salt, and tumble it over to mix with the fat and pancetta. Pour in the hot water, cover the pan, and heat it quickly to a boil. Adjust the heat to maintain a steady bubbling simmer, and cook, covered, for about hour, stirring and turning the cabbage now and then, until the shreds are very soft and the pan is nearly dry. Uncover, and cook away the remaining liquid (but don't let the cabbage brown), then empty the pan into a bowl to cool.

When the cabbage is at room temperature, beat the egg with a pinch of salt, pour egg over the cabbage, and toss in with the shreds. Sprinkle the filling with the cup of grated cheese and the nutmeg, and toss until thoroughly blended.

For the tortelli: tortelli: Cut the pasta dough in six equal pieces, and roll out as described. Make Cut the pasta dough in six equal pieces, and roll out as described. Make tortelli tortelli from one strip at a time. Lay a strip out horizontally in front of you on a lightly floured board. With the pastry wheel, trim the left, right, top, and bottom edges of the strip to form an even rectangle. Starting about 1 inch in from the left (short) edge of the strip and 1 inch above the bottom (long) edge, place a scant tablespoon of filling on the dough. Continue to make more mounds at 2-to-2-inch intervals. You should be able to fit eight to ten mounds on the strip, depending on length. from one strip at a time. Lay a strip out horizontally in front of you on a lightly floured board. With the pastry wheel, trim the left, right, top, and bottom edges of the strip to form an even rectangle. Starting about 1 inch in from the left (short) edge of the strip and 1 inch above the bottom (long) edge, place a scant tablespoon of filling on the dough. Continue to make more mounds at 2-to-2-inch intervals. You should be able to fit eight to ten mounds on the strip, depending on length.

With the pastry brush (or your fingertip) dipped in water, lightly moisten the top and bottom edges of the pasta strip; also wet the dough in a vertical line halfway between the mounds of filling. Fold the top edge down to align with the bottom edge, covering the mounds. Press lightly to seal the edges together, and press between the filling mounds, too. Finally, cut vertically (down) the lines between the mounds, separating the strip into individual tortelli. tortelli. Arrange them in a single layer on a lined and floured tray. Continue to make more Arrange them in a single layer on a lined and floured tray. Continue to make more tortelli tortelli out of the other strips in the same way. out of the other strips in the same way. Tortelli Tortelli that you will cook soon can be left on the tray, lightly covered. Freeze that you will cook soon can be left on the tray, lightly covered. Freeze tortelli tortelli for future use right on the trays until solid, then transfer them to freezer bags, packed airtight and sealed. for future use right on the trays until solid, then transfer them to freezer bags, packed airtight and sealed.

To cook and serve tortelli tortelli for four, you will need thirty to forty pieces-eight or more per serving. for four, you will need thirty to forty pieces-eight or more per serving.

Fill a large pasta pot with well-salted water, and bring to the boil. Meanwhile, melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet or saute pan (at least 12 inches in diameter), and keep it warm.

Drop all the tortelli tortelli into the rapidly boiling water at once, stir, and return to the boil over high heat. Cook for about 3 minutes, or until the thickest part of the pasta is cooked through and perfectly into the rapidly boiling water at once, stir, and return to the boil over high heat. Cook for about 3 minutes, or until the thickest part of the pasta is cooked through and perfectly al dente. al dente. Lift Lift tortelli tortelli from the cooking pot with a spider, drain briefly, and lay them in the pan of melted b.u.t.ter. from the cooking pot with a spider, drain briefly, and lay them in the pan of melted b.u.t.ter.

Maria foraging for greens Tumble the tortelli tortelli over and over, gently, until all are coated; add a few tablespoons of pasta cooking water to extend the sauce if necessary. Sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the over and over, gently, until all are coated; add a few tablespoons of pasta cooking water to extend the sauce if necessary. Sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the tortelli tortelli, and spoon them into warm bowls. Drizzle a bit of the b.u.t.ter left in the pan over each portion, and serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.

Cooking tortelli tortelli for six or more: If you want to serve all your homemade for six or more: If you want to serve all your homemade tortelli tortelli-enough for six portions (or eight small ones), you will need to cook them in two batches instead of all at once. For dressing this many pieces, I also suggest using a 14-inch skillet or saute pan, increasing the melted b.u.t.ter to 12 ounces (1 sticks). Cook half the tortelli tortelli for 3 minutes or so, drain, drop them into the skillet, and keep them bathed in the warm b.u.t.ter while you cook up the second batch. Add these to the pan, turn to coat them all with b.u.t.ter, sprinkle with cheese, and serve. for 3 minutes or so, drain, drop them into the skillet, and keep them bathed in the warm b.u.t.ter while you cook up the second batch. Add these to the pan, turn to coat them all with b.u.t.ter, sprinkle with cheese, and serve.

CHARD AND R RICOTTA F FILLING FOR T TORTELLI.

Makes enough filling for about 50 tortelli tortelli - 3 pounds Swiss chard Swiss chard - 1 large egg egg - Kosher salt to taste to taste - 8 ounces fresh ricotta fresh ricotta, drained - 1 cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg nutmeg Cut off the stems at the base of each chard leaf. If the central rib of the leaf is thick and tough, cut it out. (Save the tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs for stock.) Pile up the trimmed leaves, and slice them crosswise into narrow ribbons, about inch wide. You will have almost 6 quarts of loose chard shreds.

Bring 5 or 6 quarts of water to boil in a big pot. When boiling, heap all the the chard into the pot, and stir, gradually submerging the strips. Return the water to the boil, and adjust the heat to keep it gently bubbling. Simmer the chard until tender, about 10 minutes. Pour the strips into a colander to drain and cool off, then squeeze them by handfuls, pressing out as much liquid as possible. Loosen the clumps, and pile the chard in a large bowl.

When the chard is completely cool, beat the egg with a pinch of salt, pour it over, and toss with the chard shreds. Scatter the drained ricotta, the grated cheese, and grated nutmeg on top, and toss and stir until the filling is thoroughly blended. Follow the instructions in the master recipe to make tortelli tortelli, subst.i.tuting the cooled chard filling for the cabbage filling.

VEAL S SCALOPPINE B BOLOGNESE.

Scaloppine di Vitello alla Bolognese Serves 6 Serves 6 This traditional ca.s.serole of veal scaloppine is simple and simply delicious, with a mult.i.tude of harmonious flavors and textures. The scaloppine are quickly fried, then layered in the pan to bake, moistened with an intense prosciutto-Marsala sauce, and topped by a delicate gratinato gratinato of Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano. And though veal is customary, scaloppine of chicken breast, turkey breast, or even pork would be excellent prepared this way. The first step, of frying the meat, can be done in advance, but I recommend that you a.s.semble and bake the ca.s.serole just before serving: reheating will toughen the of Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano. And though veal is customary, scaloppine of chicken breast, turkey breast, or even pork would be excellent prepared this way. The first step, of frying the meat, can be done in advance, but I recommend that you a.s.semble and bake the ca.s.serole just before serving: reheating will toughen the gratinato gratinato and accentuate the saltiness of the prosciutto. and accentuate the saltiness of the prosciutto.

- 12 veal scallops veal scallops, 2 to 3 ounces each - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - All-purpose flour for dredging (1 cup or more) for dredging (1 cup or more) - 4 large eggs eggs - 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 3 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto prosciutto, cut in -inch strips - cup dry Marsala dry Marsala - cup dry white wine dry white wine - 1 cup hot light stock light stock (chicken, turkey, or vegetable broth) or (chicken, turkey, or vegetable broth) or water water - 5-ounce (or larger) chunk of Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A meat mallet with a toothed face; a large heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger; a large rectangular baking dish or ca.s.serole pan, such as a 4-quart Pyrex dish (15 by 10 inches) Cutting open a form of Grana Padano DOP Heat the oven to 400 and arrange a rack in the middle.

Flatten the veal scallops into scaloppine, one at a time. Place a scallop between sheets of wax paper or plastic wrap, and pound it with the toothed face of a meat mallet, tenderizing and spreading it into a thin oval, about inch thick. The pieces will vary in size.

Season the scaloppine with salt on both sides, using about teaspoon in all. Spread the flour on a plate and dredge each scallop, coating both sides with flour. Shake off the excess and lay them down, spread apart, on wax paper. Beat the eggs with a pinch of salt in a wide shallow bowl.

Pour 2 tablespoons of olive oil and drop 3 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter into the big saute pan, and set over medium-high heat. When the b.u.t.ter begins to bubble, quickly dip scallops, one by one, in the eggs, let the excess drip off, then lay them in the skillet. Fit in as many scallops as you can in one layer-about half the veal.

Brown the scallops on one side for about a minute, then flip and brown the second side for a minute. Turn them in the order in which they went into the skillet, and then transfer them to a plate. Remove any burnt bits from the skillet, and pour in the remaining olive oil; dip the remaining scallops in egg, and brown them the same way. (If your skillet is not big enough, it is fine to fry the veal in three batches.) When all the scaloppine are browned, arrange them in the baking pan, overlapping them so they fill the dish in an even layer.

To make the Marsala sauce: Wipe out the skillet, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in it, and set over medium heat. Scatter in the prosciutto strips, and cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes or longer, until crisped on the edges. Pour in the Marsala and white wine at the same time, raise the heat, and bring to a rapid boil. Cook until the wines are reduced by half, then pour in the stock, heat to the boil, and cook for a couple of minutes more, stirring, untl the sauce has amalgamated and thickened slightly.

Remove the pan from the heat, scoop out the prosciutto strips, and scatter them over the scaloppine in the baking dish, then pour the sauce all over the meat, moistening the scaloppine evenly.

To make the gratinato: gratinato: shave the chunk of Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano with a vegetable peeler, dropping thin wide flakes of cheese over the scaloppine, lightly covering them. shave the chunk of Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano with a vegetable peeler, dropping thin wide flakes of cheese over the scaloppine, lightly covering them.

Set the baking dish in the oven, and bake for 20 minutes or so, until the gratinato gratinato is nicely browned and very crisp (rotate the dish in the oven to ensure even coloring). is nicely browned and very crisp (rotate the dish in the oven to ensure even coloring).

Remove the dish from the oven and, with a sharp knife or a spatula, cut around the scaloppine and lift them out, one or two at a time, with the topping intact, onto a platter or dinner plates. Drizzle the pan sauce around the scaloppine-not on top-and serve immediately.

Ravenna, home to early Christian emperors, is sparkling and mystical, harking back to the almost magical period of the early Christian Empire. The city flourished when Honorius moved the imperial court from Rome to Ravenna in the fifth century. The colorful mosaics, imperial tombs, and cylindrical towers (characteristic of Byzantine architecture) all tell of the power and might once alive in this city. Galla Placidia, Honorius's sister, was the first to adorn the city with mosaics and monuments, and her tomb is a small cross-shaped building filled with predominantly blue mosaics, beautifully preserved. Entering the small tomb is like walking into a jewel-encrusted secret place, the walls s.h.i.+mmering with tiny golden squares laid by the hands of masters.Ferrara, a fine example of city planning, is located on a plain near the Po River and was home of the Este dukes, a family that promoted Italian Renaissance ideals in their court. In the fifteenth century, they devised the plan of the city, with wide streets, public s.p.a.ces, wonderful architecture, and paths atop the city walls. The Este family castle is surrounded by a moat, and has drawbridges with dungeons underneath the courtyard; you can still see some decoration from the castle's heyday. The city is dotted with magnificent Renaissance buildings. Palazzo di Schifanoia should not be missed, in particular the Salone dei Mesi, decorated for Duke Borso d'Este, depicting the months of the year and mythological scenes.Parma is known not only for its famous cured ham, but also for its beautiful women and cla.s.sical music. As I walk through town, I can't help humming Verdi's is known not only for its famous cured ham, but also for its beautiful women and cla.s.sical music. As I walk through town, I can't help humming Verdi's Nabucco. Nabucco. I always end up at my favorite place, the rooms frescoed by Correggio in the Camera di San Paolo. It was commissioned by the abbess Giovanna, who is depicted on the fireplace as the mythological figure Diana. The room has been transformed by Correggio into a green, leafy s.p.a.ce, the walls covered with an intricate, foliage-covered trellis. Angels peek through the leaves, brandis.h.i.+ng Diana's attributes, such as a bow and arrow. I always end up at my favorite place, the rooms frescoed by Correggio in the Camera di San Paolo. It was commissioned by the abbess Giovanna, who is depicted on the fireplace as the mythological figure Diana. The room has been transformed by Correggio into a green, leafy s.p.a.ce, the walls covered with an intricate, foliage-covered trellis. Angels peek through the leaves, brandis.h.i.+ng Diana's attributes, such as a bow and arrow.Castles abound in the area surrounding Parma. My two favorite are Soragna Soragna and and Fontanellato. Fontanellato. The Meli Lupi family still live in the Castle of Soragna, and it occupies the center of town, reached by a large masonry bridge. It even has its own ghost, La Donna Cenerina, whose portrait is in the billiards room. Fontanellato, also in the center of its own town, is a surprise. Somehow one would not expect, when walking through this small town, to come upon a crenellated fairy-tale castle surrounded by a greenish-blue moat. Inside, there are sensual decorations of Diana and Atteone painted by Parmigianino.-T The Meli Lupi family still live in the Castle of Soragna, and it occupies the center of town, reached by a large masonry bridge. It even has its own ghost, La Donna Cenerina, whose portrait is in the billiards room. Fontanellato, also in the center of its own town, is a surprise. Somehow one would not expect, when walking through this small town, to come upon a crenellated fairy-tale castle surrounded by a greenish-blue moat. Inside, there are sensual decorations of Diana and Atteone painted by Parmigianino.-TANYAThe chapel next to Giuseppe Verdi's home in Busseto

Overleaf: The town of Sirolo on the Adriatic Coast in Le Marche

WHEN I FIRST VISITED LE MARCHE IN 1958, IT WAS DIFFICULT TO get there, separated as it was by the Apennines from the main Venice-Florence-Rome travel corridor. But today, by the autostrada, you can easily make it from Bologna to the heart of Le Marche in less than two hours. get there, separated as it was by the Apennines from the main Venice-Florence-Rome travel corridor. But today, by the autostrada, you can easily make it from Bologna to the heart of Le Marche in less than two hours.

I was twelve years old when my parents took us to the Adriatic coastal city of Pesaro to see my aunt Anna Perini, my father's sister. She had moved there from Pola with her husband when World War II began. We were about to leave Italy to immigrate to America, and we went to say goodbye My aunt, like most housewives in those days, was a good cook, but the experience I had on that visit was extraordinary. I still recall the spaghetti with white clams that she made for us. The Adriatic coast of Le Marche is sandy, with the exception of some beautiful steep cliff promontories, and clams thrive in that sand. That day, she came home from the market with a bag full of clams, none any bigger than my thumbnail. She chopped lots of garlic and parsley, threw the pasta in the boiling water, rinsed the clams, and, sh.e.l.l and all, tossed them in the golden garlic and oil. By the time the pasta was cooked, the sauce was made. A steaming, garlicky plate of spaghetti peppered with little clamsh.e.l.ls was put in front of me. Being from Pola, a sea town, and having a fisherman as an uncle, I was not intimidated by sh.e.l.ls and bones in fish. But this was different; it became a game, a delicious game of slurping the tiny clams out of their little sh.e.l.ls in between forkfuls of deliciously clammy spaghetti.

The next time I visited my aunt Anna was in 1966, on my honeymoon-and return I did to the fish market where Aunt Anna had gone eight years before. I bought a bag of those same little clams, called lupini lupini (in English, striped Venus clams) or (in English, striped Venus clams) or poveracce poveracce ( (Chamelea gallina). This time I cooked for all of them, spaghetti con poveracce spaghetti con poveracce, and it was every bit as delicious as I remembered. And to this day, Spaghetti with Clam Sauce remains one of my favorite dishes. My aunt pa.s.sed away, at ninety-two, but I still visit my cousins, and as I travel from Pesaro to Ancona along the coast, I have many opportunities to sample the great seafood cookery of Le Marche. I always enjoy the brodetto brodetto at Nenetta, a seaside shack in Porto Recanati, which calls for thirteen different local fishes. I also love the at Nenetta, a seaside shack in Porto Recanati, which calls for thirteen different local fishes. I also love the Ziti all'Ascolana Ziti all'Ascolana with tuna, a memorable and easy recipe; and Fish with Pepper Sauce. with tuna, a memorable and easy recipe; and Fish with Pepper Sauce.

Another delicious seafood tradition in this area of Le Marche is the preparation of crudo di pesce crudo di pesce-raw fish-some of the best to be had anywhere. Around Senigallia, chef Moreno Cedroni, in his beach hut Il Clandestino and restaurant La Madonnina del Pescatore, and chef Mauro Ulia.s.si of the restaurant Ulia.s.si have received many accolades, for their extraordinary work with raw fish. One of my own New York chefs, David Pasternack of our restaurant Esca, prepares some unusual crudo di pesce crudo di pesce, and he continues to do research in this area.

Inland, Le Marche is covered with olives, which have been growing in these areas since the Greeks first brought them to Italy. Great olive oil also hails from this region, but Le Marche, especially around Ascoli, is famous for the olive variety called Ascolana tenera Ascolana tenera, tender Ascolana. Large green olives cured in brine, they are great for antipastos, with vegetables, and in meat dishes such as Chicken with Olives and Pine Nuts, an enticingly different dish.

The cuisine of inland Le Marche, as I have discovered on my repeated visits, is also delicious, very rich in meats and game. Squab, hare, quail, and rabbit are common. Two of my favorite recipes are the Stuffed Quail in Parchment and Rabbit with Onions. And I've been delighted to discover some distinctive dishes, such as Scrippelle Scrippelle Ribbons Baked with Cheese and Meatloaf with Ricotta. Legumes (lentils, chickpeas, dried beans) and grains (farro and barley) are used year-round in soups and salads and desserts. Farro with Roasted Pepper Sauce is an excellent side dish, but add to it some shrimp, clams, or mussels and you have a great main course. In Le Marche, not only is Ribbons Baked with Cheese and Meatloaf with Ricotta. Legumes (lentils, chickpeas, dried beans) and grains (farro and barley) are used year-round in soups and salads and desserts. Farro with Roasted Pepper Sauce is an excellent side dish, but add to it some shrimp, clams, or mussels and you have a great main course. In Le Marche, not only is grano grano used for bread or as a main staple of the meal, but when it is mixed with some dried fruits and chocolate chips, it becomes a pauper in prince's clothing, a dessert fit for any royal table. used for bread or as a main staple of the meal, but when it is mixed with some dried fruits and chocolate chips, it becomes a pauper in prince's clothing, a dessert fit for any royal table.

Sheep husbandry is a way of life in the highlands of Le Marche, and lamb dishes like Lamb Chunks with Olives-Agnello 'ncip-'nciap, are common. And there is no lack of sheep's-milk cheese in this region. Pecorino is eaten as an appetizer, grated in soups and pastas, and especially good and crunchy when used in Scrippelle Scrippelle Ribbons Baked with Cheese. But the prized cheese is the Pecorino di Fossa. Ribbons Baked with Cheese. But the prized cheese is the Pecorino di Fossa.

I first encountered Pecorino di Fossa when my friend Mario Piccozzi brought me to Gastronomia Beltrami to meet Vittorio Beltrami, the genius cheesemaker, madman, and philosopher. He looked like an Italian version of Einstein, his hair flying in the wind as he came out the door with open arms and grabbed Mario by the neck. He immediately ushered us in, pressed us to eat and drink something-the Italian welcome-and took us out to meet his animals and his wife, Elide, and daughters, Cristiana and Sara, who tend the rustic gastronomia. gastronomia. There, on an old, large wooden table, were the cheeses, as well as jams, mustards, and the Beltramis' own wines, for visitors to taste and buy. I felt immediately welcomed by the whole family. There, on an old, large wooden table, were the cheeses, as well as jams, mustards, and the Beltramis' own wines, for visitors to taste and buy. I felt immediately welcomed by the whole family.

The town of Sirolo on the Adriatic Coast Then off we went to visit the animals. Vittorio petted them and called each one by name, and they seemed to respond. Indeed, it was a beautiful bond between a shepherd and his flock. On our way back, when he stopped in front of a slanted old wooden door, my nose caught wind of some cheese; he opened the door to reveal a narrow cave dug through the pumice, with descending steps.

As we went down into the cave, I noticed that on each side of the wall were shelves chiseled into the stone, and on them the forms of pecorino were set to age. As the humidity increased, so did the intensity of the mold flavor. Because Pecorino di Fossa is made from unpasteurized milk, all nutritive elements and flavors are kept intact, and the resulting cheese is soft and crumbly. It is prepared at the end of spring and beginning of summer, and then put in the wells to age from August to October, at which point it is cleaned and ready to be enjoyed. The Beltrami wells maintain a constant temperature between sixty-two and sixty-eight degrees, and the humidity reaches up to 100 percent. In these conditions, the bacteria and mold modify the cheese so much that in three months it matures into the characteristics of cheese typically aged for three years.

The story of the wells goes back to medieval times, when cheese was the most precious commodity. To save it and hide it from possible burglars, wells were dug out of soft rock like pumice, and the cheese was stored and kept safe. But little did the cheesemonger know at that time that he would get an extra bonus, a cheese that was deliciously aged, Pecorino di Fossa.

As Mario and I enjoyed Vittorio Beltrami's marvelously complex and crumbly Pecorino di Fossa and washed it down with Rosso Piceno and Rosso Conero, the main DOC reds of Le Marche, the madman seemed mad no more.

CELERY S STEAMED IN A S SKILLET.

Sedano in Umido Serves 6 Serves 6 Celery is plentiful and a wonderful vegetable, yet I see it mostly used in making stocks or salads. This way of braising celery is easy and flavorful, and makes a grand side dish for grilled fish or chicken. It can be cooked in advance and reheated when your guests come-or serve it at room temperature as an appetizer. I've also discovered that any leftovers make a very good chutney: chop coa.r.s.ely and spread on a sandwich of cold cuts or cheese. Fantastic!

- 2 pounds celery celery (1 large or 2 medium heads) (1 large or 2 medium heads) - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - 2 medium onions onions, thinly sliced - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - cup pitted black olives black olives - 3 tablespoons tomato paste tomato paste - 2 cups hot water water RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy saucepan, such as an enameled cast-iron Dutch oven, 10 inches wide with a 3-to-4-quart capacity, with a cover Separate the heads of celery, and wash and trim the stalks. Shave tough outer ribs with a vegetable peeler or paring knife, removing thick skin and strings. Cut the stalks crosswise, including leafy parts, into 4-inch pieces (or smaller chunks if you prefer).

Pour the olive oil into the saucepan, set it over medium heat, stir in the garlic cloves and sliced onions, and heat until sizzling. Heap the celery in the pan, sprinkle over it the salt and peperoncino, and stir and toss, coating the celery chunks with oil. Cook over medium heat about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, as the celery starts cooking. Stir in the olives, turn up the heat a bit, and saute the vegetables about 15 minutes, tossing and stirring now and then, until the celery and onions are softened and caramelized on the edges.

Meanwhile, stir and blend the tomato paste in the 2 cups of hot water to make a braising liquid. When the celery is lightly browned, pour in the tomato water and bring it to a boil. Cover the pan, and adjust the heat to maintain a steady, gentle perking. Cook about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the celery is completely tender and caramelized and the liquid has reduced to a glaze. Serve right away as a side dish, or let it cool to room temperature. Leftover celery will keep in the refrigerator for a few days and freezes well.

ZUCCHINI WITH A ANCHOVIES & C & CAPERS.

Zucchine in Salsa di Acciughe e Capperi Serves 6 as a side dish Serves 6 as a side dish Zucchini is such an abundant and tasty vegetable, yet too often is bland and unpleasing when served. This preparation is simple and full of flavor. The anchovies provide much of it, and if you crave the anchovy taste you can increase the amount used. On the other hand, if you are apprehensive about anchovies, cut the amount in half. For extra spice, add crushed red pepper as well. Serve this hot, as an appetizer or a side dish, or prepare it in advance and serve at room temperature. It's delicious either way (and thus an excellent buffet item). The savory zucchini makes a great pasta sauce, too-simply toss with hot drained ziti (or other short hollow pasta) and top with grated cheese.

- 2 pounds small zucchini zucchini - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - 6 anchovy fillets anchovy fillets, finely chopped - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - cup drained small capers capers RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Trim the ends of the zucchini, and slice them into -inch-thick sticks, 2 to 3 inches long.

Pour the olive oil into the big skillet, and set it over medium heat. Toss in the garlic cloves, cook for a minute or so, until sizzling, then drop the chopped anchovy into the pan. Cook, stirring, another minute or two, until the anchovy melts in the oil.

Scatter the zucchini sticks in the skillet, and toss and stir to coat them in oil. Season with salt, and cook about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the zucchini are cooked through, limp, and lightly caramelized. Finally, toss in the capers and cook another minute or two to blend the flavors. Serve hot or at room temperature.

FARRO WITH R ROASTED P PEPPER S SAUCE.

Farro con Salsa di Peperoni Serves 8 to 10 as a side dish Serves 8 to 10 as a side dish Farro, a variety of wheat also known as emmer, was one of the first domesticated crops. It is a low-yielding grain and difficult to cultivate; hence it fell out of favor in much of the world. But in Italy, farro has always been appreciated. The Roman legions ground it to make puls puls, a version of polenta, and today it is still used to make great soups, or side dishes like this recipe. Served warm or at room temperature, it is wonderful with grilled meats, and a great item on a buffet table. If you want to turn it into a main course, just add shrimp, clams, mussels, or canned tuna.

Though farro is the best choice for this recipe, you can subst.i.tute spelt, barley, or other grains, adjusting cooking times. And in place of bell peppers, you can flavor the dish with other vegetables such as zucchini or eggplant in the summer, or squash and/or mushrooms in the fall.

- FOR THE PEPPER SAUCE - 2 medium red bell peppers red bell peppers - 2 medium yellow bell peppers yellow bell peppers - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 4 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - cup golden raisins golden raisins - 1 medium onion onion, thinly sliced - 2 bay leaves bay leaves, preferably fresh - 1 garlic garlic clove, crushed and peeled clove, crushed and peeled - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 4 cups (one 35-ounce can) canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - FOR THE FARRO AND FINIs.h.i.+NG THE DISH - 1 pound farro farro - 1 bay leaf bay leaf, preferably fresh - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A baking sheet lined with baking parchment; a heavy 3- or 4-quart saucepan for the farro; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Preheat the oven to 350. Rub the peppers all over with 2 tablespoons olive oil, season with teaspoon salt, and place on the parchment-lined baking sheet. Roast for 30 minutes or so, turning the peppers occasionally, until their skins are wrinkled and slightly charred. Let the peppers cool completely.

Meanwhile, cook the farro. Rinse the grain, drain in a sieve, and put it in the heavy saucepan with 6 cups cold water, the bay leaf, salt, and olive oil. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally, then set the cover ajar, and adjust the heat to maintain a steady, gentle simmer. Cook about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the farro is cooked through but still al dente. al dente. Turn off the heat, pour off any liquid not absorbed by the grain, and keep covered. Turn off the heat, pour off any liquid not absorbed by the grain, and keep covered.

While the farro cooks, prepare the sauce. Put the raisins in a small bowl, pour hot water over them to cover, and let soak. Peel the charred skin off the cooled peppers; slice them in half lengthwise, discard the stem, and sc.r.a.pe out the seeds. Cut the peppers into 2-inch squares, and let the pieces drain and dry in a sieve.

Pour 2 tablespoons olive oil into the big skillet, and set it over medium heat. Scatter in the sliced onion, bay leaves, garlic clove, and peperoncino, and cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes, until the onion begins to soften.

Stir in the crushed tomatoes and 1 cup water with which you've sloshed out the tomato bowl. Season with 2 teaspoons salt, bring the sauce to an active simmer, and cook until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes.

Drain the plumped raisins, squeeze out excess water, and toss them into the simmering sauce. Heap the farro into the pan, and stir to blend the grain and sauce. Season with another teaspoon of salt, or more to taste, and gently stir in the cut pepper pieces. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring, until the farro is very hot. Turn off the heat, drizzle over the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, sprinkle the grated cheese and parsley on top, and stir well. Serve hot immediately, or let the grain cool and serve at room temperature.

SPAGHETTI WITH C CLAM S SAUCE.

Spaghetti con Sugo di Vongole Serves 6 Serves 6 This is a very flavorful rendition of pasta and clam sauce, a bit more complex than the one Aunt Anna made for me on my first visit to Le Marche. It can also be made with other seafood, such as shrimp or calamari, in place of the clams-just keep in mind the varying cooking times of whatever sh.e.l.lfish you use. If you are not in the mood for seafood, omit it altogether and double the artichokes. And who is to say that you can't do this recipe with chicken breast? Just add slivers of breast meat before the artichokes, cook and stir for a few minutes, then proceed with the basic recipe.

- cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - 1 cup (a 6-ounce jar) marinated artichoke hearts artichoke hearts, drained and thinly sliced - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - teaspoon dried oregano dried oregano - cup white wine white wine - Juice of 1 orange orange, freshly squeezed (about cup) - 3 dozen littleneck clams littleneck clams, scrubbed, rinsed, and drained - Kosher salt for the pasta cooking water for the pasta cooking water - 1 pound spaghetti spaghetti RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy saucepan, such as an enameled cast-iron Dutch oven, 10 inches wide, 3-to-4-quart capacity, with a cover; a large pot for cooking pasta Pour the olive oil into the saucepan, and set it over medium-high heat. Toss in the garlic slices, and heat and stir for a minute or so, until sizzling. Drop in the artichokes, stir, and season with the peperoncino and oregano. When the artichoke slices are sizzling, pour in the wine and orange juice, and heat to a boil.

Immediately dump in the clams, shake the pan to spread them evenly over the bottom, and put on the cover. Adjust the heat to keep the liquid at a steady simmer, and cook just until the clamsh.e.l.ls open, 5 minutes or so. Remove open clams to a colander set in a bowl; cook any tighly closed clams a bit longer, about 3 minutes. When all the clams are out of the pan and draining, turn off the heat (and discard any sh.e.l.lfish that have not opened at all).

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil (6 quarts, with a tablespoon of kosher salt).

Shake the clams in the colander to collect all their juices in the bowl below, and pour this liquid back into the saucepan. Bring the clam juices to a boil over medium-high heat, and reduce to a thin sauce consistency (turn off the heat before it gets thick). Meanwhile, pluck the cooled clam meat from the sh.e.l.ls, and chop it finely.

Now cook the spaghetti-if you're in a hurry, it can cook at the same time as you reduce the sauce and shuck and chop the clams. Have the clam cooking sauce barely simmering in the pan, and stir in the chopped clams just before the spaghetti is al dente. al dente.

Lift the cooked pasta from the pot, let it drain briefly, drop it into the saucepan, and toss well until all the strands are nicely coated with clam sauce. Sprinkle on the chopped parsley, toss again, and serve the pasta right away in warm bowls.

SCRIPPELLE R RIBBONS B BAKED WITH C CHEESE.