Journal of a Horticultural Tour through Germany, Belgium, and part of France,Autumn of 1835 Part 1

Journal of a Horticultural Tour through Germany, Belgium, and part of France, in the Autumn of 1835.

by James Forbes.

PREFACE.

The continental gardens and botanical collections having been rarely visited by the British gardener, his Grace the Duke of Bedford, with his usual anxiety for the promotion of useful knowledge, very liberally and kindly proposed in the autumn of 1835 that I should undertake a Horticultural Tour, through several parts of Germany, Belgium, and France, with a view of inspecting the different collections and productions cultivated in some of the most celebrated horticultural establishments in these countries.

The notes which are now submitted to the public contain a cursory detail of the various gardens and objects that came under my observation during a tour occupying a s.p.a.ce of eight weeks,--a period of time which the reader will readily understand required the utmost diligence on my part to fulfil the objects I had in view. Yet I was enabled to investigate such modes of culture as were adopted in the princ.i.p.al gardens, where the produce appeared in any way superior to our own; to become thoroughly acquainted with the different systems practised at various seasons of the year would have required an actual residence of many months.

In the mode of forcing fruits and management of the kitchen garden department, the English gardener will find but little abroad superior to what he is daily accustomed to see at home. It must however be observed that the zeal and anxiety displayed throughout Germany in the cultivation and increase of their collections of plants are in no way inferior to our own. In fact, in succulent plants they far surpa.s.s us; more particularly in their collections of Cacteae, which appeared to be a favourite tribe in the princ.i.p.al establishments on the continent. They are certainly deserving of a more extensive cultivation in this country than they have hitherto obtained. Their various shapes, numerous spines, angles, and the splendid flowers of many of the species, form an interesting and pleasing addition to our botanical establishments; and of all plants requiring the protection of the greenhouse and artificial heat, the Cacteae may be cultivated at the least expense, and exact less attendance than is generally requisite for hothouse plants. The Palmae are also extensively cultivated throughout the continent, and notwithstanding many of them are planted in gloomy habitations they were in general very healthy, and evidently more suitable inhabitants for such structures than the deciduous or hard-wooded species. The hothouses erected for the cultivation of plants throughout the Prussian dominions consist of opaque roofs, furnished only with upright lights, which are ill adapted for the flowering or bringing to perfection many of the tender species.

In most parts of Germany the pleasure grounds are very deficient in evergreens, frost being so intense in that country that the _Rhododendron pontic.u.m_, _Arbutus_, _Laurustinus_, _Daphne_, _Portugal_, and even common _Laurel_, require the protection of the greenhouse during the winter season. If these grounds, however, are deficient in evergreens, they are richly decorated, in most instances, with ornamental vases, statues, and numerous groups of fine sculpture, which contribute greatly to the embellishment of a pleasure-ground. As far as architecture and sculpture are concerned, the continental royal gardens far surpa.s.s those in England; but there did not appear to me in the quarters I visited to be a spirit for garden-improvement equal to that which is so generally prevalent in this country.

It now only remains for me to take this opportunity of returning my thanks to those whose kindness afforded me considerable facilities in viewing the different gardens described in this tour; they are, however, more especially due to those horticulturists of Germany by whose liberality I have been enabled to add above six hundred new and curious plants to the splendid collection at Woburn Abbey, entrusted to my care; and I must add, that I found a cheerful inclination, in most instances, to enter into a correspondence for the mutual exchange of plants and seeds. The few remarks on different objects, not immediately connected with Horticulture, which I have ventured to introduce, will it is hoped be received with that indulgence which my imperfect acquaintance with such matters may require.

J. F.

JOURNAL OF A HORTICULTURAL TOUR, IN 1835.

August 19th. Left the Custom House at six o'clock, a. m., by the William Joliffe steam-packet, for Hamburgh; but having a strong easterly wind a-head, we did not pa.s.s the sunk light until a little past four o'clock in the afternoon.

20th. Sailing at the rate of six miles per hour; still a strong easterly wind a-head, but a beautiful day, and the sky clear from clouds; about twelve o'clock we were about twenty-five miles off the Texel, with a fresh breeze still right a-head.

21st. A beautiful day, but the wind still continuing against us, we sailed only at the rate of seven miles per hour. About nine o'clock in the morning the small isle of Heligoland made its appearance, much to the gratification of the pa.s.sengers, this island being only a hundred miles from Hamburgh. It is said to contain from three to four thousand inhabitants, who are chiefly occupied in fis.h.i.+ng; haddocks and lobsters are very abundant in its immediate neighbourhood, which are taken in great numbers to the Hamburgh as well as the London markets. The island is said to be nearly a mile in length, and about half a mile in breadth, and now belongs to the British government. At twenty minutes past twelve o'clock we entered the Elbe, where two light s.h.i.+ps are stationed, in consequence of the sandbanks, which are rather dangerous in that part of the pa.s.sage.

The island of Newark-Farm is distant only from three to four miles from the mouth of the Elbe; the houses and cattle were now pleasing objects in view. About three o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at Cuxhaven, which is a small sea-port town, and is in the territory belonging to the town of Hamburgh. It is a very fas.h.i.+onable bathing spot: and a large concourse of ladies and gentlemen a.s.sembled at the haven when the steam packet neared the sh.o.r.e. About four o'clock we experienced some heavy drops of rain, with very loud claps of thunder, and towards evening numerous broad flashes of lightning, very vivid, which appeared to skirt along near the ground. On pa.s.sing along the Elbe, we found it much crowded with numerous sailing vessels, making the best of their way to and from Hamburgh. These, with a variety of handsome church-spires peeping out amongst various clumps of trees on both sides of the river, gave the scenery a pleasing and picturesque appearance. We have also here at the same time in view a part of the king of Denmark's dominions, as well as a portion of the Hanoverian territories.

August 22nd. Arrived in the harbour at Hamburgh at half-past twelve o'clock in the morning; but by the time we got out our luggage, and boats to take us ash.o.r.e, it was getting close on to eight o'clock.

Shortly after my arrival I proceeded to Flottbeck, to see the nursery gardens of Mr. Booth, which are situated close by the banks of the Elbe, about four English miles from Hamburgh. In this nursery I was much gratified by the extensive collection of plants; there are about one hundred acres of ground under nursery stock, consisting princ.i.p.ally of ornamental trees and shrubs, including a great variety of new species, that I had not previously seen in any of our British nurseries. Mr.

Booth is a most enthusiastic practical botanist, and spares no expence for the introduction of new and rare plants to his collection. He has arranged along the edges of a walk which is nearly a mile in length a collection of hardy trees and shrubs, which are so planted that the different species of each genus are brought at once under view for comparison. The whole are arranged according to the _Natural System_ of _Jussieu_. The herbaceous ground contains above four thousand species of hardy perennial plants: there are also above twelve hundred different varieties of roses. The hothouses allotted for the growth of exotics and Cape plants are about five hundred feet in length, with a range of pits nearly four hundred feet long for the low and half-hardy species. The collection of _Cacteae_ here amounts to nearly four hundred different species; amongst them are many curious and interesting sorts.

There are also some fine specimens of palms, and numerous fine exotics; the collection of Cape and New Holland plants is likewise very extensive. The pa.s.sion for _Orchideae_ has also extended to this part of Germany; Mr. Booth has a great variety of this tribe of plants, and is building a house solely for their cultivation: he is likewise constructing pits, for the growth of the pine-apple. He has a very fine collection of the _Genus Pinus_, and shewed me several new species that he had raised from seeds, which were considered to be new and undescribed sorts. I saw a species much resembling our _Pinus pal.u.s.tris_, with fine long foliage. Mr. Booth calls it the pal.u.s.tris _excelsa_, and informs me that it grows to a great height, and is perfectly hardy, having stood this winter ten degrees of frost, Reaumur, which is equal to twenty three Fahrenheit, without sustaining the least injury, although quite exposed.

I could not but admire the neatness in which the plants and grounds in this extensive establishment were kept, and notwithstanding the extreme dryness of the weather, (not having had any rain for nine weeks in that part of the country,) the plants were looking all in a healthy and flouris.h.i.+ng state; but the watering of such a collection for so many weeks must have been attended with an enormous expence.

August 23rd. Being accompanied by Mr. Booth, we proceeded along the banks of the Elbe to the villa of M. de la Camp, which is situated close by the road, commanding a most beautiful view of the Elbe and its s.h.i.+pping, as well as Finkenwarder, an island on the opposite side of the Elbe, the one half of which belongs to Hanover, and the other half to Hamburgh. This island produces a very hardy species of oak, which was found there some years ago, and is called the _Quercus Falkenbergense_.

M. de la Camp has formed a very complete vineyard on the banks of the Elbe, which was in a very prolific state, as were also the vines that formed an arbour to the front of this gentleman's house.

From this we next proceeded some miles further along the Elbe banks, to the seat of Mr. Baur at Blankanese. This gentleman is a wealthy merchant, and has expended an immense sum of money in the formation of his grounds, according to the English system of gardening. He has formed numerous walks and artificial banks, that command extensive views of the Elbe. These walks and banks, were staked out by Mr. Baur personally, who, I have no hesitation in saying, has displayed a very superior taste; they are remarkably well executed: in short, the banks and valleys appeared as if they had been formed by nature, but they are princ.i.p.ally the work of art. I however regretted not to find a corresponding taste for good plants, to keep pace with the other extensive ground improvements that this gentleman has completed and is proceeding with.

Close by the Elbe are situated several small forcing houses for fruits, a greenhouse, orangery, and some low pits for the cultivation of the pine-apple, which has been grown here for several years; but they do not seem yet to have made much progress in the cultivation of this fruit. In front of these houses there is a terrace-wall, that separates the garden-ground from the Elbe, which washes up against it. The stones with which this wall was built were brought a distance of from four to five hundred miles (from Saxony) for this purpose; and it is executed in a very superior manner. On the highest part of the grounds there has been lately erected a handsome Chinese paG.o.da, which commands a beautiful prospect of the Elbe and its s.h.i.+pping, as well as the opposite island and Hanoverian dominions. A round tower also been lately built, which forms a pretty object in these grounds; several other objects of interest are also to be seen dispersed in various parts, which are considered superior to any other gardens in the neighbourhood of Hamburgh, and are consequently much frequented every Sunday by visitors, as on that day it is open to the public. We were obliged to take our departure from them much sooner than I could have wished, owing to a very heavy shower of rain which continued for a considerable time; and it being the only rain of any consequence that had fallen in the course of nine weeks, it was very agreeable to that part of the country.

Mr. Baur has recently built in these grounds a very handsome house, according to the English style of building, but it is not yet inhabited.

It was impossible not to admire the very superior and substantial manner in which the works are all executed in this gentleman's establishment.

On my return from this place to Flottbeck, I then proceeded back to Hamburgh: when on my way I was much surprised to observe bricklayers in some places busy at work, although Sunday. Towards the evening, the rain had quite abated; I then made the best of my way for the Botanic Gardens, which are situated in the suburbs of the town, on a part of the ground which, during the reign of Buonaparte, formed a strong fortification, but these have recently been demolished: they are now laid out as a public promenade for the inhabitants of the town, and likewise a Botanical establishment for the cultivation of plants, and from its beautiful situation, it is certainly one of the best chosen sites for this purpose that has come under my observation. It appeared to be of considerable extent, and irregular form, sloping in part of it, down to the old rampart ditch, which now forms a handsome piece of water, bounding the garden, and separating it from the promenade on the opposite side, which being laid out as a pleasure ground, with clumps of trees and shrubs on the gra.s.s, when viewed from the Botanic Garden, gives a stranger the idea that it is a part of the Botanical establishment, giving the latter a much more extensive appearance than it actually possesses. The extent of hothouses for the growth of exotic and Cape plants, is rather limited, and did not seem to be more than about two hundred and fifty feet in length. I here observed some very fine specimens of _Cacteae_, and likewise several rare species of _Palms_, such as the _Zamia_, _Frideriis_, _Guilielmi_, _aetensteinii_, _Lehmanii_, _Caffra_, and _Horrida_. I also was much delighted by seeing in flower, a very pretty plant, called the _Olendorfia proc.u.mbens_, which I believe has not yet made its appearance in England. A great portion of the ground in this establishment is occupied by trees and shrubs, which are cultivated for sale, for the support of the garden, consequently much ground is taken up by these, which ought to be a.s.signed to single specimens. In the herbaceous ground, there is also an extensive collection of hardy perennial plants.

August 24th. Went at five o'clock in the morning, to see the fruit and vegetable market, which seemed to be well supplied with fruit and culinary vegetables. I observed large quant.i.ties of the new Orleans plum, summer Bergamot pear, and the black cherries, which appeared to be larger than the same sort (Hertford blacks,) grown in this country.

The _Haricot bean_, is also in great repute in Germany, and certainly deserves to be more extensively cultivated in this country, than it hitherto has been, as it forms an excellent subst.i.tute for the _French bean_ or the _scarlet runner_, which is cultivated here in preference.

After seeing the fruit and vegetable market, I next proceeded to view the promenade which surrounds the greater part of the town, and adds greatly to the comfort of the inhabitants, as well as to the beauty and scenery of the immediate vicinity of Hamburgh. This promenade is laid out very tastefully with numerous clumps of trees and shrubs, various capacious walks leading to different points of view, and objects around the town, sloping towards the old rampart ditch, which is now formed into a handsome irregular piece of water, which enlivens the scenery, and gives the promenade an appearance equal to any pleasure ground in this country. The side facing the town of Altona, is really beautiful; the s.p.a.ce of ground leading from the Hamburgh gate, at the Altona side of the town, is very picturesque, especially as we approach towards the Harbour or Docks, whither we are guided by a broad walk, leading to a high projection, or point of view, where we have a delightful prospect of the s.h.i.+pping on the Elbe, with its surrounding scenery for several miles in extent. The formation of this promenade was commenced about sixteen years ago, is now annually progressing, and advancing towards completion, under the superintendance of Mr. Altuman, who has displayed great taste, in his arrangement of the walks, clumps of trees, and shrubs, as well as the formation of the water. The _Alster Lake_, is situated at the north side of the town, extending about twelve miles in that direction, and adds considerably to the beauty of the scenery in that neighbourhood. It also contributes greatly to the convenience of the town, as numerous boats, with various commodities, are brought to Hamburgh on its surface. The promenades leading to the town of Altona, are also deserving of notice; long avenues intersecting each other are here formed, by double rows of the Lime, Elm, and Poplar trees, with large s.p.a.ces of gra.s.s lawn, intervening betwixt them. After making a tour round the promenade, I next proceeded to view the princ.i.p.al parts of the town, and its churches, which are very splendidly fitted up. The streets of Hamburgh are narrow and paved with round stones, which are not very agreeable to those unaccustomed to walk upon them; the most fas.h.i.+onable part of the town is the side next the Alster Lake, which is much frequented in the evenings.

After getting my pa.s.sport examined and signed, and securing a place in the diligence for Berlin, I next accompanied Mr. Booth the seedsman, (brother to the nursery man,) in a drive round the outskirts of the town, where there are some pretty villas, and also various tea gardens, which, although a week day, appeared to be well attended. I was rather surprised to find at 5 o'clock in the afternoon, a large concourse of ladies and gentlemen a.s.sembled in front of a small theatrical performance, which it appeared was the daily practice in that part of the country, the ladies being occupied sewing and knitting, and others drinking coffee. The town of Hamburgh is said to contain above a hundred thousand inhabitants, and they certainly appeared to me to be in a very flouris.h.i.+ng state. In short the general appearance and respectability of the inhabitants, that prevailed throughout the town and its vicinity was very striking. At eight o'clock in the evening, I took my departure from Hamburgh, by the _Schnell-post_, (diligence) for Berlin, which was accomplished in one day and two nights travelling; here I had a good specimen of diligence _expedition_, especially for the first eight hours, being placed in one of the bye chaises, which is only calculated to hold four pa.s.sengers, and is of much less dimensions than the main diligence, and much lighter; I fully expected every moment to be upset, as a great part of this road between Hamburgh and Boisenburgh, is full of large deep ruts that kept us completely on the rock for many miles, but after we pa.s.sed the latter town, we then had an excellent road, yet the speed of our crawling conveyance was but very little increased. The roads throughout all the Prussian territories that I have travelled on, appeared to be in excellent repair.

August 25th. Arrived at a small town called _Ludwigsl.u.s.t_, about one o'clock, where we dined, and stopped nearly an hour, which enabled me to make a hasty visit to the grounds, attached to the beautiful palace of the grand Duke of Mecklenburgh, who generally resides here. In front of the palace are pretty jets of water, but the most imposing sight, is a fine avenue of limes, that leads from a large piece of lawn adjoining the palace; the avenue appeared to be nearly a mile in length, and had several walks branching from the right and left, through a shrubbery, or rather plantation, where there were also several small pieces of water.

Close to the palace is an old orangery, with some good trees standing in front of it. At a short distance, and nearly opposite to the palace, is a handsome building, called the "Augusta Villa," with an extensive piece of pleasure ground, laid out after the English mode of gardening, with numerous clumps of trees, and shrubs dispersed on the lawn; the walks and grounds appeared to be in very good order, but I was unable to examine the extent of the collection of plants that it contained. In the vicinity of Ludwigsl.u.s.t, there were several orchards, and large pieces of ground under vegetable culture. The country from this town as far as Warnow, was rather more varied than that we previously pa.s.sed, but the soil appeared light and sandy, and Scotch firs, the only trees observed in the plantations in view. At Warnow our luggage was examined by the police, and our pa.s.sports demanded, and detained until we arrived in the town of Perlebergh, when they were again examined, and then returned to us.

August 26th. Arrived at half past three, A. M. at Nauen, a small town about twenty five English miles from Berlin; this place appeared conspicuous, from the number of small flour mills, situated in the river Havel, which pa.s.ses close to the town. About 6 o'clock in the morning, we had reached to a small town, called Spandau, which is said to contain about 5000 inhabitants, and appeared to be strongly fortified: it is only ten miles distant from Berlin, where we happily arrived at about 8 o'clock in the morning. As we approached the city, the country looked more cheerful, and in a better state of cultivation, the soil also was of a more fertile quality, and trees and plantations more numerous. I was very much pleased by observing growing by the road side, several species of Alpine plants which are not easily to be met with in this country, in an indigenous state. The _Gentiana Pneumonanthe_, appeared in great abundance, and with its brilliant blue flowers was to me pleasingly conspicuous; but the diligence, although slow, was yet too fast to allow me time to procure a few specimens. On pa.s.sing the magnificent palace of Charlottenburg, I was much struck with its extensive appearance, and fine park, leading from it all the way to Berlin, through the Brandenburg gate, and along the Linden or lime tree walk, to the splendid university, armoury, museum, and other large buildings, and handsome bridges, with the statues placed on them, its magnificent palaces, which all appear in view from the diligence, by this the Hamburgh line of road, and to the eye of a stranger has a grand effect, giving him the idea of a great and n.o.ble city, by seeing so many magnificent buildings immediately as he enters the town. Within a few stages of Berlin I met with Mr. Parker, Bookseller, from Oxford, travelling in the main Diligence, where I joined him; on our arrival in the city, we took up our abode, in the St. Petersburgh hotel, after breakfast we separated, he in search of books, while I went to visit the Royal Botanic Gardens at Schoenburgh, which are situated about three English miles from Berlin, where I was much gratified by the many fine specimens of plants that I saw. Having letters of introduction to M.

Otto, from Sir W. Hooker and Dr. Lindley, as well as from his old friend Mr. Hunneman, I experienced the greatest attention from him, he took great pains in pointing out to me the various new and curious plants in this extensive collection. There were some very fine species of _Palms_, in great beauty, nearly reaching to the top of the hothouse, which is about thirty feet in height. The _Latania borbonica_, was particularly fine, and had attained nearly twenty five feet in height, its foliage or fronds extending from ten to twelve feet on each side from its stem.

The _Gomutus saccharifer_, had also reached to the height of twenty five feet, and numerous other choice specimens of the Palmae, were in an equally healthy and luxuriant state, and of little less dimensions than those specified. The _Aristolochia brasiliensis_ was particularly fine, covered with long beautiful speckled flowers, that extended over a large part of the rafters. Many new and fine specimens of the _Gesneras_ were also in flower; they appeared different from any that I had previously seen in this country. Some of the _Melaleucas_; in the conservatory had grown to the height of nearly forty feet; the _Magnolia grandiflora_, which requires the protection of the conservatory during the winter months was now covered with fine large flowers. Numerous other species of New Holland plants, had grown to an amazing height in the conservatory.

The hothouses in this garden are placed in several separate ranges, and are very substantially built in comparison to our erections in England.

The quant.i.ty of timber employed in the rafters is immense, but giving them a very heavy appearance; yet I have rarely met with a more healthy collection of plants anywhere; they may be considered the most extensive on the continent of Europe. In short, I never before saw so many plants cultivated in pots. The numerous species of New Holland and Cape _genera_ were quite astonis.h.i.+ng, as well as the hardy and Alpine species. As to the Cacteae, there can be no hesitation in saying that the collection in these gardens of this curious tribe of plants really comprises the most beautifully grown specimens that I have ever seen; the different species that have grown to a considerable size have a very interesting appearance, particularly the _Mammillaria_ and _Echinocactus_ tribes; with their numerous spines and angles, they form a pleasing object either in or out of flower. M. Otto has long been celebrated for his ardent love to this curious tribe of plants, and he certainly has succeeded in forming a valuable collection. The species of _Ferns_ in these gardens are likewise very numerous, and there are many very fine specimens amongst them, which have grown to a great size. I could not but admire the very tasteful manner in which the Cape and New Holland plants were arranged out of doors in the summer months, and which were neatly plunged to the rims of the pots, to prevent them from being blown about by the wind. The _Bignonia radicans_ formed a very prominent object against the end wall of one of the hothouses; the luxuriance and brilliancy of its flowers far surpa.s.sed any that I had previously seen. A fine specimen of the _Laurus indica_, which must have been fully twenty feet in height, was standing out of doors, and obliged to be cut down, as it was getting too high for the house in which it stood in the winter season. The _Robinia Pseudacacia_, _inermis_ and _tortuosa_ were both splendid trees, which ornamented the gra.s.s lawn.

The _Magnolia ac.u.minata_, also a beautiful specimen, as well as the _Quercus pal.u.s.tris_, and _rubra_; both had attained a great size, and were handsome trees, as well as several other species of this genus. Mr.

Otto having kindly requested Mr. W. Brackenridge, who had been for some time from Scotland, residing in the neighbourhood of Berlin, and was then employed in the Botanic gardens, to accompany me the following day to such places as he considered most deserving of notice, I arranged with him to be ready betwixt six and seven o'clock in the morning, to proceed to the different gardens.

August 27th. We started at seven o'clock in the morning, to the royal gardens at Charlottenburg palace, which are situated about four English miles from Berlin. The grounds attached to this royal palace, are said to contain four hundred English acres, laid out with various walks, clumps of trees and shrubs, as well as several pieces of water, embracing some very fine views from different points notwithstanding its being a flat surface, but it is much diversified by trees, bridges, and sheets of water that intersect the lawn. There are several bridges leading across the stream to the most ornamental and picturesque parts.

The palace is also seen to great advantage from several points in the grounds. A very fine specimen of the _Quercus pal.u.s.tris_ was in great beauty on the gra.s.s. I also saw some very large trees of the _Populus alba_, which were considerably larger than any tree of this species that I had previously seen. M. Fintelman, the superintendant of the royal gardens, pointed out to us a very complete _Fructiferum_, that he had lately formed in these grounds, comprising a collection of all the hardy fruits. Nearly adjoining to the palace, is a very handsome little flower garden, lately executed for the growth of the dwarf flowering perennials and annuals. I was much pleased by an arbour formed with the different species of Cape and New Holland plants, that are rather flexible in their growth; the pots in which the plants grew, were all plunged round the back, the branches tied closely to it and thickly covered, producing a great variety of foliage, and pleasing effect, and having the appearance of growing there permanently throughout the season. Opposite to this Botany Bay, or Cape Arbour, is a pretty summer house, which is chiefly composed of reeds. In the centre of the flower garden, there are various posts with iron rods extended from them for the training of creepers. Again, at the extremity, is an artificial gra.s.s bank, considerably elevated above the flower beds, planted with the dwarf china rose, which has a very good and natural effect. The orange-house is an oblong building, of great length, with opaque roof and backwall, upright lights only in the front, completely covered with grape vines, having a very fine crop of fruit all over them. The orange trees were all in excellent health, some of them bearing separately nearly two hundred fruit; there are about three hundred of these trees cultivated here. I also saw a fine variety of Dahlias, and various other beautiful flowering plants in great perfection; these Dahlias are fully as good as any I had seen in England; great attention is paid to these flowers by M. Fintelman, who took great delight in pointing out the various objects most worthy of notice in these grounds. Having devoted several hours to the inspection of this extensive establishment, we then took our leave of M. F. and proceeded back to Berlin, when I had another opportunity of observing more fully the various improvements, that are now going forward in the Thier-garten, or park, which extends from the royal palace of Charlottenburg, to the Brandenburg gate. This park is considered one of the finest in Europe, and is now undergoing extensive alterations, the grounds forming in several places so as to harmonize with the English style of landscape gardening; numerous walk and rides leading in various directions, with groups of sculpture, make this an interesting promenade for the public, by whom it is much thronged, particularly in the evenings. It is approached from Berlin by the Brandenburg gate, which cannot fail to attract the stranger's notice. It has a most magnificent appearance; on the top of this gate stand the celebrated bronze horses, removed by Buonaparte to Paris, but were again replaced by the Prussians in their original site. In front of the Royal Museum, is a very handsome marble vase, which measures about sixty four feet in circ.u.mference, and four feet in depth; a handsome fountain is also playing, throwing the water to a great height. The ground floor of the museum is occupied as a sculpture gallery, which contains numerous statues, and busts; but it appeared to me to be deficient of the finer groups. I was however much pleased with the beautiful imitation marble columns of various colours, which have a polish equal to the original. The picture gallery is above that devoted to the sculpture, and I could not but admire the beautiful state of preservation of the paintings, and their very admirable arrangement.

From hence we proceeded to the nursery grounds of M. Bouschie, which are not of much extent, nor yet is there much for the Horticulturist to admire, except some very fine specimens of the _Cacteae_ (_Opuntia_) tribe; some of the species are from eight to ten feet in height. After visiting this nursery, we then proceeded to the forcing gardens of M.

Bouschie, who grows a large quant.i.ty of pine apples and peaches for the Berlin market; the pine apples were very small, and much inferior to our English grown fruit; the crop of peaches was very abundant, but not of a large size, the trees old, and the hothouses of a very inferior description. We next proceeded to the nursery garden of M. Touissaint, which appeared to contain a much better collection of the Cape and New Holland plants, than any of the other nurseries I had previously seen in Berlin. Here was a good collection of the more hardy species of _Rhododendrons_; the forcing of flowers is likewise extensively practised in this establishment, and the grounds in very good order. I next visited the nursery ground of M. Mathieu, where there were some good specimens, but none that I had not previously met with.

August 28th. Went at six o'clock in the morning to see the fruit and vegetable market, but was rather disappointed in observing so very inferior a supply in comparison with what is to be seen in Covent Garden Market. In fact for some time I thought that I had gone to the wrong place, as the market is held every alternate day in two different parts of the town; but on enquiry I found it was seldom better supplied. Large quant.i.ties of grapes grown out of doors, or on trellis, were in the market; also a pretty good supply of peaches, but these were of a small size. I only observed one solitary pine apple, about one pound weight.

The mode of preserving the fish, which were also brought to the market where the fruit and vegetables were exposed for sale, was new to me.

They are kept alive in water in oval shaped wooden tubs or vessels, and each sort is kept separate. Large quant.i.ties of game, poultry, butcher's meat, as well as cart-loads of hay and straw, are found abundantly in the market.

After making a tour through the princ.i.p.al parts of the town, and getting my pa.s.sport signed by the police and English amba.s.sador, I made a second visit to Mr. Otto, and also then called on Dr. Kloytch, to whom I had a letter of introduction from Sir W. Hooker. Dr. Kloytch has the charge of the Royal Herbarium, which is situated opposite and nearly adjoining the Botanic Gardens, containing several apartments for dried specimens of all the plants that flower in the Royal Botanic Gardens, which are gathered and preserved as they appear in flower. Attached to the Royal Herbarium house is a piece of pleasure ground, one side of which is enclosed by a good brick wall that has projecting piers, betwixt which grape vines are trained, and confined to the s.p.a.ces of about twelve feet between the projecting piers; each sort is thus prevented from intermixing with another; a wooden pailing enclosing another part of this garden is likewise adapted to the same purpose. Dr. Kloytch was once a pupil of Sir W. Hooker's at Glasgow, and is considered an eminent botanist, he has certainly formed a very natural arrangement of the different species in the genus _Ericae_, arranged according to the form and structure of the flower. He shewed me several native specimens of this genus that I have not yet seen in England, but seeds of which I hope to receive from him before long. I was much gratified by the excellent method he described to me, in preserving the specimens of _Fungi_, which appears to be the most effectual mode of drying these plants that I have yet seen. After looking over various specimens in the Herbarium, Dr. Kloytch accompanied me to the Botanic Gardens, where I again saw Mr. Otto, and was enabled to see more minutely the extent of this n.o.ble collection of plants. It is proper to observe that the s.p.a.ce of ground allotted for this garden, is not sufficiently large for such an extensive collection of plants. Many of the oaks and several other fine trees are too much crowded, and not seen to advantage. After examining all that I wished to see here, Mr. Otto, Dr. Kloytch, and Mr.

Brackenridge, accompanied me into Berlin, where we pa.s.sed through another fine part of the "_Thiergarten_," and being joined by Mr.

c.u.ming, the celebrated Zoologist, we spent a very pleasing evening in the discussion of botanical pursuits, and the cultivation and beauty of the _Cacteae_ in the Berlin Gardens.

August 29th. Left Berlin at seven o'clock in the morning for Potsdam, where I arrived at eleven o'clock in the forenoon, a distance of eighteen English miles. Every stranger must be forcibly struck with the scenery as he approaches Potsdam, particularly in pa.s.sing Prince Charles's villa and grounds, with the view of the handsome bridge lately erected across the river Havel, at this side of the town expanding itself to a very capacious sheet of water. On my arrival at Potsdam I proceeded to the Royal Gardens at _Sans-souci_, which are situated about one English mile distant. Having a letter of introduction from M. Otto to M. Linne, the princ.i.p.al director, I was disappointed in not finding him at home. Free access was afforded to the various departments, and I then made the best use of my time in examining the different gardens attached to this residence, which required considerable diligence to get through a portion of the departments. I first inspected the kitchen garden, which is very extensive, and contains several ranges of low houses, and pits, for the forcing of cherries, plums, and apricots, with a good collection of standard fruit trees, as well as the walls being well stocked. The length and breadth of the princ.i.p.al range of houses in this garden, is 255 feet long, and about 9 feet in width; the upright sashes are eight feet high, placed in a slanting position; the roof-lights were about six feet long, but these lights were at this time all removed from the house, the trees being planted as standards in the interior border; the sashes are removed as soon as the fruit is gathered, in order to expose the trees to the full effect of the atmosphere. In another garden at a short distance from this vegetable one, there are numerous other ranges of hothouses for the forcing of fruits, which are in great request for the royal table. The structures here used for this purpose are about six feet high in front, and about ten feet in width; the length of the roof sashes were from nine to ten feet. In these houses the flues are placed at the back, running parallel to the backwall. Some of the houses are heated by hot-water pipes, rather of a novel construction, and I much fear not calculated to give any great command of heat; they consist of two round copper pipes, about two inches only in diameter, which run parallel along the front of the house about two feet apart from each other. The peach trees are planted inside the house, within one foot of the front wall, and are trained perpendicular to the trellis, to the height of six feet, being as high as the upright gla.s.s. A rider is then carried in general, close under the roof lights, trained to a lath trellis which is nailed to the underside of the rafter.

As soon as the frosty nights are over, the houses are generally stripped of the sashes, and the trees and fruit left fully exposed to the sun and weather, while the fruit is maturing; but such fruits as are wanted at an early period, are of course not thus exposed. I here observed various trees of plum, cherry, and apricot, thus treated, a more congenial mode of treatment, than by having recourse to pots or tubs, as is in general practised in this country, especially where there can be houses spared for this purpose, as the trees will get established in the ground, and be enabled to produce a more abundant crop and larger fruit than if their roots were confined to a small s.p.a.ce for nourishment. I also saw here a great quant.i.ty of very fine melons, all trained over moss, and at this season these also were exposed to the weather. The appearance of the fine terraces in front of Sans-souci Palace, gave me more gratification than anything of the kind that I had previously seen. This palace, originally erected by _Frederic the Great_, is now a favourite summer residence of the Crown Prince. It is situated so as to command a most beautiful view of the surrounding country, with six tier of terraces in front of it, each terrace falling about twelve feet under another towards the south from the palace. Along the top are flower borders and broad gravel walks, with a row of very fine orange trees placed along the edge of the gravel walk on each of the terraces, which give them a magnificent appearance. Against these walls are trained princ.i.p.ally grape vines, provided with a frame in front for covering them with gla.s.s; peaches and apricots are likewise here grown.

In the centre of each terrace is a n.o.ble flight of steps thirty-six feet wide at the bottom, but at the top the width is only fifteen feet; containing in each from twenty-five to twenty-seven steps. The view of these from the avenue or road by M. Lennie's house, is really grand: the different flights of steps from this point of view appear to form one connected tier leading to the palace, which, with its magnificent orange trees and groups of sculpture, strike the eye of every stranger with admiration. I here congratulated myself on being alone, and left to examine and take the dimensions of the various objects, without being hurried. At a short distance from the lower terrace is an oval basin of water, surrounded by a gra.s.s lawn and a gravel walk, or rather carriage drive; and on the exterior side of the circular sweep of the gravel, are placed twelve large statues. This basin was originally intended for a fountain; the reservoir for supplying it was formed by Frederic the Great on an eminence on the north side of Sans-Souci palace, where it must be several hundred feet above the level of the basin of water where the fountain was intended to be placed. The effect from the palace windows and from several other points of view, if it had been completed, would have been very magnificent when the water was playing. At a short distance from the palace is another large building, which was occupied by a part of the establishment; in front is a large piece of pleasure ground, in which are placed also a number of very fine orange trees; one of them, pointed out to me, is named after _Frederic the Great_, his majesty being a great admirer of these trees, insomuch, that during the war he took possession of all the best that came in his way, and sent them to his royal gardens at Potsdam. The head of this tree, named Frederic the Great, was equal to one of our ordinary sized Portugal laurels, its branches extend over seventeen yards of ground in diameter.

I should imagine there must be fully 400 trees grown in this establishment, all of large dimensions. The soil in which they are grown consists of a black sandy loam, well incorporated with cow-dung and rotten leaf mould, with a mixture of bone dust, in some cases horn shavings. The houses for the protection of the orange trees in the winter season, are simply a long range or ranges of red tiled roofed buildings, with merely upright lights in the front or south side, which are provided with wooden shutters that are closed during frosty weather.

The flues run along in the floor of the house, and are not calculated to give out much heat, but the roof and back wall being opaque, and the front furnished with shutters, little heat is required for preserving the trees from the frost. They are generally turned out of doors in the month of May, and not taken in again until October. Arranged along with the orange trees I observed a very fine specimen of the _Nerium Oleander_, covered with blossom, also several fine plants of the pomegranate, covered with flowers. The figs were also in prolific state against a wall and growing in light sandy loam. At the opposite end of the palace is situated the picture gallery, which opens into another garden department, with hornbeam hedges, and numerous box edging scrolls; but this piece of ground is evidently not much attended to: the walks, flowers, borders, are not in good order. The collection of paintings, however, in the gallery will infinitely repay the visitor for the disappointment he may experience in the badly kept garden. This gallery is two hundred and fifty-two feet long, and thirty-six feet wide; the dome and cove ceiling are richly gilt, the floor and walls inlaid with marble. The paintings are very numerous, and in beautiful preservation. Those taken from this gallery by Buonaparte and again replaced in the spot they originally occupied, are particularly pointed out to the visitor. I observed on each side of the door, as we entered this gallery, two very fine marble statues, one of _Diana_, the other of _Louis_ XVI. A straight avenue or drive leading from the Potsdam road, in a direct line by the front of the terraces at Sans-souci, to the new palace, is of considerable length. At the extremity of this avenue is the magnificent palace built by _Frederic_, after the completion of the wars in which he was engaged. It is said to have been erected with the English subsidy; however this may be, it is undoubtedly a very magnificent building.

The grounds leading from this and Sans-souci palace are all laid out as pleasure-ground, with numerous walks and roads, leading in various directions, which are very well kept; but the gra.s.s lawn here is rather rough, and not much attended to. The quant.i.ty of sculpture placed throughout these grounds is truly astonis.h.i.+ng; at almost every intersection of the walks, various statues or busts are placed, and likewise in different recesses that are formed out of the road and walk edges.

Along the front of the new palace, facing towards Potsdam, is arranged a row of very fine orange trees, with several pieces of sculpture.

The garden ground extends considerably to the north of the palace, where it is much varied, and commands an extensive view of the adjoining scenery and country. The Belvidere and terraces here are also prominent objects. I was much pleased with a piece of trellissing that surrounded the oval spot of ground at the south side of the palace. This trellis projects about twenty-one feet on one side, and forms an oblong square about forty-two feet long. The side next the oval consists of eight round columns, formed by thin flat iron bars, opposite to which are openings to correspond, that look into a running stream of water, that separates the park or pleasure ground from a piece of kitchen-garden ground on the opposite side. The peculiarity of this trellissing is in its handsome projecting cornice, with columns at nine feet apart, formed by the flat iron bars. Arched recesses are likewise made between these columns, about five feet wide, and nine feet in height. The entire height of this trellis with the cornice is twelve feet, and was evidently originally gilt, but it is now in a corroded and decaying state; not a vestige of paint is even to be seen upon it.

At a very short distance from this splendid palace is a piece of vegetable ground enclosed with formal clipt hornbeam hedges, which ought to be removed, as it disfigures that part of the grounds, and is much too close to the palace. The walks and lawn adjoining were in pretty good order, especially the former.