Journal of a Horticultural Tour through Germany, Belgium, and part of France,Autumn of 1835 Part 3

Sept. 15th. Left Carlsruhe at six o'clock, a.m. for Heidelberg, pa.s.sing through a fine fertile country, chiefly occupied with green crops. The mangel wurtzel, Indian corn, and fine crops of tobacco, are cultivated here, as well as in many other parts of Germany. Arrived at Heidelberg at eleven o'clock, and proceeded to the Botanic Garden, which has been only recently established, and contains a neat range of hot-houses, about one hundred and sixty feet long, besides a large sized pit in front of the range, one hundred feet long. This garden, although small, is pleasantly situated, and well arranged. In the centre is an oblong piece of water, the banks around which are considerably elevated, and planted with standard fruit trees, such as peaches, apricots, plums, and pears. The garden forms an oblong square, with a range of hot-houses and gardener's house at the north end, close to the Heidelberg Gate. These hothouses were the best and neatest-built that I had met with in Germany, and contain a pretty fair collection of plants, with some very fine species of _Cacteae_. Along by the east side of the garden is an avenue of very fine specimens of the _Robinia inermis_, which is also continued along the south side of the town for a considerable distance.

I next proceeded to Schwetzingen, another magnificent establishment, belonging to the Grand Duke of Baden. The palace and gardens are situated about five English miles from Heidelberg, and are unquestionably well worth the stranger's visit. In the approach to them by an arch-way at the palace, we have a view of a large circular piece of ground, divided into various divisions, in which are cultivated a good collection of flowering plants; there are also in this spot a number of fine orange trees, arranged along the edges of broad gravel walks; several of them forming a straight avenue, extending in various directions. The centre walk or avenue, leading from the palace, is terminated by an extensive sheet of water, where is placed a fine group of sculpture, as well as another at the commencement of the avenue, at the end of the gra.s.s, next to the circular piece of ground, where the orange trees are arranged. On each side of this princ.i.p.al avenue is situated an oblong piece of ground, laid out in the French style of gardening, with numerous straight walks, and circular s.p.a.ces at their junctions. The exterior of the ground, and that by the lake, is laid out in the English style, and consists of various clumps of trees; and the very fine irregular sheet of water has really a very good effect.

I was much pleased with a very fine ruin, which is ascended by steps to a very considerable height, from whence is a delightful prospect of the gardens and adjoining scenery. The Temple of Apollo, with the stupendous blocks of rock, and the water das.h.i.+ng against them, is another object deserving of notice. The Temple of Minerva is also a very pretty erection. A Roman aqueduct forms a very prominent object of attraction, but at this season of the year it appeared to be but indifferently supplied with water, which might be occasioned by the long and universal drought. A Temple Botanique, and a very handsome Kiosk, formed objects of interest and ornaments to the garden. An extensive arched trellising covered with creepers also attracted my notice: in it were numerous arborial openings on both sides.

The collection of Cape and New Holland plants is pretty extensive, and numerous species of the _Genus Erica_ are also cultivated. In the kitchen garden various pyramidal-formed pear trees are grown; and the hothouses are of a better description than are usually to be met with in Germany; the south-side gla.s.s, and the back opaque, with span roofs. The pine-apples here were the best that I had previously met with during my tour in Germany. To give an accurate description of the various objects of interest that are to be seen in these grounds would require one well acquainted with the premises, and several days' actual residence on the spot. The orange houses are substantial built houses, with dark roofs, and the collection of trees, from their appearance, from four to five hundred, which were in a healthy state.

Having a letter of introduction from Sir John Frost and M. Kilter from the neighbourhood of Vienna (who visited Woburn Abbey last summer) to the princ.i.p.al director, I experienced the greatest attention from him; the greatest pains were taken in pointing out to me every thing worthy of notice.

Returned to Heidelberg, and visited the ruins of an old castle, situated on the face of a hill overlooking the town, and the river Necker, and surrounded by high hills well planted, which form an eminence considerably above the castle, where there is a platform or resting place: the view of the extent of country and its romantic scenery is really grand. On the top of two of these hills are high towers, the prospect from which must be still more extensive. On approaching the old castle, I was agreeably surprised to observe some fine walks, with a collection of trees or arboretum, with printed labels attached to them, and the ground in good order. From this we still continued to descend to the old castle, which, even in its present state, must strike the stranger with regret that such a magnificent building should have been permitted to go to decay, particularly as the stone work appears in a good state of preservation. The prospect from the terrace, on the north-side of the castle, is really grand, commanding the circuitous course of the Necker, the lofty and undulating hills on each side, which I imagine must be elevated at least two thousand feet above the level of the site of the castle.

In the interior of the building is the celebrated _Heidelberg tun_, which was formerly used in making the Rhenish wine, with the great machine that was in use for that purpose, and from its size the quant.i.ty made daily must have been very great; near to it stands a figure of one of the wine makers, who was in the habit of drinking fifteen bottles every day. The approach of night prevented me from inspecting the interior of this old castle so minutely as I could have wished.

Descending from a hill considerably elevated above this building, I pa.s.sed through a grove of fine trees (sweet chesnuts) all in full bearing.

The country and romantic scenery in the vicinity of Heidelberg pleased me more than anything of the kind I had previously met with.

Sept. 19th. Left Heidelberg at six o'clock a. m. for Frankfort, the road winding along the river Necker, for a considerable distance, through a flat country to the left; but the high hills on the right as we pa.s.sed from this to Darmstadt formed a pleasing contrast. The scenery for the first ten or twelve miles is very picturesque, from the high undulating hills, having numerous old romantic castellated ruins on their summits, or commanding points, which form prominent features of attraction. These hills are likewise well planted with forest trees; and large tracts are under vineyard culture.

Arrived at Darmstadt at half-past one o'clock. I was much pleased with the cleanliness and elevated situation of this town, which is said to contain above twenty thousand inhabitants; the houses are handsomely built, the streets wide, and in good proportion to the height and size of the houses; they have also flag pavements, which is a rarity in Germany. The opera-house is a splendid building, as well as the cathedral. The palace is also a fine old building, and has attached to it an extensive pleasure ground and kitchen garden.

Having but a very short time to stop here I made but a hasty visit through the gardens. The kitchen garden walls were well stocked with trees in full bearing, and large crops of vegetables appeared to be extensively cultivated: from thence I went to the extremity of the grounds, near which is a small herbaceous ground, with a good collection of plants in it, but I observed but little in the ornamental way in the arboretum department.

About the centre is prettily formed, although dirty, a sheet of water, with a fanciful boat, for pa.s.sing to and from a small island in the centre. The grounds are very flat and not varied, but possess numerous walks and rides which are frequented by the inhabitants.

I here observed a large number of horses, belonging to the Grand Duke, pa.s.sing through the town to the Ducal stables. There are military barracks, and a large establishment of soldiers stationed here. This is evidently not a town of trade, but is princ.i.p.ally occupied by the military.

Left Darmstadt at three o'clock for Frankfort; the country betwixt these towns is not much varied, but the soil appears very fertile, and produces good crops. I was, however, quite astonished at the number of carriages and other vehicles pa.s.sing and re-pa.s.sing betwixt Frankfort and Heidelberg; the road appeared to be nearly as much crowded as any of the English roads leading to London, and amongst these travellers were many English families.

Arrived at Frankfort at six o'clock in the evening; the hotels were all so crowded with strangers that it was with difficulty I procured a bed, but at last the landlord of the Hotel d'Angleterre obtained me a room in a private house.

Sept. 17th. In the morning I visited the Catholic cathedral, which is said to be one thousand years old, and contains a curious clock and almanac, made and placed in it about four hundred years ago; and then proceeded to the banking-house of Messrs. Koch and Co., and delivered to them a letter of introduction from His Excellency Lord G. W. Russell.

They kindly furnished me with notes of introduction to several of the best gardens in Frankfort. I then visited the nursery gardens of M.

Rintz, which are situated in the suburbs of the town, and contain about eighteen English acres, chiefly occupied with fruit trees. There are also several hothouses and pits for Cape and other plants, which are pretty extensively cultivated, with a good variety of _Ericas_ and other greenhouse plants, as well as several fine specimens of _Cacteae_, and a very extensive variety of the _Camelliae_; but unfortunately none of these being at this season in flower, I had not the pleasure of seeing M. Rintz's celebrated variety, which is said to be very fine. This gentleman then accompanied me to the garden of M. Andreae Willemer, which is close to the town, but is very limited in extent; it contains a very good greenhouse, and low pits and frames, which were then well stocked with a very fine collection of _Cacteae_, amongst which were many very scarce species. This gentleman devotes much attention to the cultivation of this tribe of plants, and appeared to put a higher value on many of them than they are actually worth; for instance, the _Cactus Senilis_ he would not part with for fifty pounds, although possessing duplicates.

There was also a good a.s.sortment of Cape plants and a number of _Ericas_, which are now beginning to be more extensively cultivated in Germany than they previously were.

I then paid a visit to the Frankfort Botanic Garden, which is of very limited extent, and its collection of plants also very contracted. These is, however, attached to it, the Senkenberg Society, which contains a splendid collection of objects in natural history, such as birds, fishes, sh.e.l.ls, minerals, and animals, which are well worth the stranger's notice.

From this I proceeded to the gardens of M. Gogel, situated about four English miles from Frankfort, containing twenty-four German acres, with several hothouses and pits for the growth of the pine-apple and other tropical plants, which are extensively cultivated here. This gentleman has a very fine collection of the hardy grapes on the garden walls, with a large s.p.a.ce of vegetable ground, well cropped. The lawn in front of the house appears, from the River Main, to much advantage, as well as a fine avenue of lime trees, that have grown to a large size. At the lower end of this avenue is a fine vista of the river and packets, or boats, that pa.s.s to and from Frankfort and Mayence.

On my return, I called at the villa garden of M. Stern, which is a pretty little spot, with a great variety of pelargoniums and dahlias, and other green-house plants, and contains some small green-houses and pits for their protection; there is also a good collection of camellias, all in a healthy state.

Adjoining this is another villa, belonging to M. Cronelius, that has also several good hothouses and pits, with a large variety of _Ericas_, _Camellias_, _Dryandrias_, and _Geraniums_, as well as other New Holland plants. There are likewise several espalier divisions, in which the pear tree is extensively cultivated, and appeared to be in a very prolific state. There is a considerable extent of ground under kitchen cropping, and also a pleasure ground, which was very well kept.

The garden of Baron Rothschild, close to the town of Frankfort, is undoubtedly the best in this neighbourhood that came under my observation; it contains thirty-five German acres, with several green-houses, besides an extensive range then building, about two hundred feet long, which was also intended for plants, and is divided into seven apartments, in order that those kinds that require different temperatures may be kept separately; this range when completed will have a very fine effect. In front of the mansion were placed two large stands well stocked with geraniums, and some very good orange trees, in tubs, which are removed from this site to the green-house early in autumn. I here observed a very fine specimen of the _Araucaria excelsa_, which was beautifully feathered to the ground; this is unquestionably one of the finest specimens of this plant that I have seen on the continent or in England, with the exception of that at Dropmore, which is much finer in every respect. Baron Rothschild's _Araucaria_ is little inferior to the one at Prince de Linge's at Belial.

Opposite to the house is a prospect tower, that commands a fine view of Frankfort and surrounding country; there is also an arched walk completely covered with grape vines. The gra.s.s lawn was well kept, and various clumps of trees and shrubs dispersed through it. A small piece of water is enclosed at the lower end of the ground for water fowl. In this garden I observed a good collection of green-house plants and _Ericas_.

The fortifications that formerly surrounded the town are now demolished, and formed into a public promenade for the inhabitants, and are well laid out, with various clumps of trees and shrubs, broad walks, and benches.

Frankfort is a town of great traffic, and is said to contain about 40,000 inhabitants.

Sept. 18th. Left Frankfort at ten o'clock for Mayence, and pa.s.sed through a fertile sandy country, which is well stocked with grape vines, but the country not much varied; the scenery as we approach Mayence is more picturesque, particularly when we get in view of the town. We pa.s.s through a handsome barrack, situated on the verge of the river, proceeding across a long wooden bridge that leads to the town.

Opposite to this wooden bridge, are placed seventeen watermills for grinding flour, which were then busily at work.

The town is surrounded by very deep rampart ditches, faced with strong stone walls, a very good promenade, and a number of small gardens with clipt hedges, near the edge of the Rhine, where there is an avenue that extends along its banks formed by large trees of Poplar and Robinias. At a short distance from Mayence, but on the opposite side and close to the banks of the river is a very fine old castellated building, and a small village adjoining, which form a prominent feature in the scenery from the Mayence bridge.

Sept. 19th. Left Mayence per steam packet for Bonn. For the first two hours, we made scarcely any progress, owing to the dense fog, which we were all anxious to see disperse, in order that the beautiful scenery might be seen to full advantage: it was however not before nine o'clock, that the banks of the Rhine were quite clear, when the packet began to make a rapid progress, and pa.s.sing rapidly along between numerous stupendous rocks, old castles, and small towns situated close by the river side.

The banks of the Rhine are extensively cultivated as vineyards. When we arrived at Katz, which is considered about the middle of the best scenery, we met the other steam packet, coming up at Werlau. The scenery here is truly grand; the high mountainous rocks and old castellated ruins, with the various undulations and other objects, render this region highly picturesque. There is a pretty town close by the water edge, with white houses, and corresponding village on the opposite side, and another appearing just at the extremity of a deep valley in prospect. The old castle called Marksburg, is a prominent object, but to attempt to describe or enumerate all the various features of interest that come under observation in pa.s.sing along the Rhine, would be an endless task. The scenery at Coblentz is very beautiful, with its bridge of boats across the Rhine, similar to that at Mayence. A large rock called the Stromberg, is very picturesque, with the castellated ruins at the top, and several other rocks of smaller dimensions in its vicinity, nearly opposite to which the Rhine surrounds a small island. This may be considered about the last of the romantic scenery that comes in view, as we pa.s.s down the Rhine.

Arrived at Bonn, about five o'clock, where I experienced some difficulty in getting a lodging, in consequence of the great meeting of scientific professors having been here congregated. After at last finding admittance in a hotel, I proceeded to the Botanic garden, which is situated about a mile from the town, surrounding the south and east sides of the university, and containing a very handsome range of hothouses, from three to four hundred feet in length, which also form nearly a line, or a range, with the principle front of the university.

The hothouses are in five divisions, and contain an extensive collection of _Ferns_ and _Graminea_; many of the stove plants were in a very luxuriant state, and looked very healthy. Behind this range is the annual ground, where the different species are cultivated, which appeared to occupy about an acre: there are several low pits placed in this department, for the growth of _Cacteae_, and _Orchideae_, and other dwarf-growing species; but the collection of _Cacteae_ and _Orchideae_ is very limited. Immediately in front of the range of hothouses, is an arboretum of hardy trees and shrubs, much too crowded, and planted too close to the hothouses, and is continued in a manner round the two ends and south side of the garden. Opposite the princ.i.p.al front of the university, is arranged the collection of _Herbaceous_ plants, according to the natural system, but the beds are all of an oblong form, with broad alleys or foot-paths, betwixt them: an extensive collection of the hardy flowering perennial plants was grown in the _Herbaceous_ ground, but the variety of hardy trees and shrubs appeared to be very limited.

There were placed along the front of the university several clumps of green-house plants, and orange trees.

The university was formerly a royal palace, but the lower apartments are now devoted to collections of natural history; the length of the front measures eighty eight yards, and appeared to be about square, with an inner court. On my return, I met with professor Treveranes, and gave him a letter of introduction that I had from Sir W. Hooker. I learned from the professor, that the prince of Salm-Dyck was then in Bonn, attending the scientific meeting, and if I did not see him that evening, I should not be able to see him at all; having a letter of introduction to his highness from Sir W. Hooker, and from Mr. Sabine, and being anxious to see the prince, if possible, I made the best of my way back to Bonn, to the hotel where the prince was stated to be residing; but on enquiring there, finding he had gone out, I immediately proceeded in search of the prince to another hotel to which I had been directed. After waiting some time, I found his highness had not arrived, but was expected very soon.

I therefore amused myself in looking through several splendid apartments which were then occupied by a large number of ladies and gentlemen, who meet at this hotel or club-house every night, to supper and various amus.e.m.e.nts. At last I was informed that the prince had just arrived, when I delivered my letters of introduction, and apologised for intruding at that unseasonable time. The Prince appointed me to be with him at nine o'clock the following morning, when his Highness was pleased to give me a letter to his gardener at Salm-Dyck, directing him to shew me the grounds and collections under his care.

Sept. 20th. After my return from the prince, I made another excursion to the Botanic garden, where I again saw the professor Treveranes, who had not accompanied his learned brethren to Cologne, who to the number of about four hundred had departed that morning for that town.

I took a walk on my return from the Botanic gardens round the environs, and was much pleased by the objects of interest that displayed in different directions. The scenery around Bonn is particularly fine, and some good prospects from a hill, at a short distance from the town; but as I intended starting by the early steam packet, I had not time to reach its summit, although very inviting.

The Cathedral is a very fine building, and its interior handsomely fitted up.

The packet arrived at half-past two o'clock: I took my departure for Dusseldorf, and pa.s.sed by Cologne, where, I imagine, there must have been several thousand people a.s.sembled on the harbour and bridge.

We now changed packets for one of less dimensions and splendour, and arrived at Dusseldorf about half-past ten o'clock. The scenery from Cologne to Dusseldorf was flat, and but little varied; in short Bonn is the termination of picturesque scenery.

At Dusseldorf, I had but little difficulty in finding a hotel, as they were not so much crowded as at Bonn.

Sept. 21st. Started at six o'clock, a. m. for prince Salm-Dyck's Chateau, which is situated about ten miles from Dusseldorf, on the opposite side of the Rhine, which is crossed in a flat barge, and pa.s.ses through the ancient town of Neuss, at which place Buonaparte's design of connecting the Rhine, Scheldt, and Meuse, is nearly completed.

The suburbs of Neuss abound in numerous vegetable gardens, enclosed with well clipt hedges. The ground in this part of the country, is a strong rich looking yellowish loam, and produces strong crops of corn, clover, and potatoes. The road however leading through a part of this country to the prince's palace, is very much out of repair, and appeared to have been neglected for a considerable time.

On arriving at the palace, I immediately found out M. Funck, the prince's gardener, and delivered to him my letters of introduction from the prince, and from M. Otto, of Berlin. The garden ground attached to this residence, contains one hundred and eighty German acres; the surface is considerably varied, and consists of numerous fine trees and shrubs grouped together on the lawn, the rising ground being judiciously planted with the loftiest growing sorts, and kept towards the extremity of the arboretum; amongst these I observed some very fine specimens of beeches and oaks; the beeches were particularly fine.

I saw here the _Gleditschia tricantha_, 50 feet high, and the _Populus Canadensis_ eleven feet in circ.u.mference, by about sixty in height; also a fine specimen of _Acer dasycarpum_. The trees in this arboretum are arranged according to the system of _Jussieu_; there is likewise a natural arrangement of herbaceous plants nearer to the palace and green houses. I here observed a good collection of _Paeonias_, but the prince excels most in the _Succulent_ tribe of plants, such as the _Cacteae_, _Mesembryanthemum_, and _Aloes_.

Although the _Cacteae_ are very numerous they were not such fine specimens as in the Berlin garden. A sheet of water encloses, in a manner, the greater part of the palace and its offices, and from the windows it has a very fine effect, with its bold sweeping banks extending along the arboretum, where a pretty wooden bridge appears in view. The hothouses are rather in a decayed state; but M. Funck informed me that the prince intended re-building them. In the greenhouse are some very rare specimens of _Yuccas_ and _Aloes_. I understood from M. Funck that Mr. Hitchen, of Norwich, had the greater part of his celebrated collection from this garden, whence I also antic.i.p.ate receiving, ere long, not a few rarities.

In going through the interior of the palace I saw a number of very old paintings, many of which represented former princes of Salm-dyck, but they are not in a good state of preservation; the rooms and furniture are of antique appearance, as well as the exterior of the palace. After spending several hours in inspecting the plants and grounds, I returned to Dusseldorf, to see the botanic garden belonging to that town, which is certainly neither difficult to get over, nor to see its contents, the s.p.a.ce of ground being very contracted, and the plants also few in number.

They princ.i.p.ally consisted of annuals; with a few rare species of _Cacteae_, not easily to be met with. I was, however, more pleased with the public garden or promenade, which surrounds the town, and is very extensive; it is particularly well laid out with fine broad walks, clumps of trees and shrubs, and lawn intervening, and great variation of surface, with different points of view commanding fine prospects of the Rhine, with its boats and steam packets.

There is in this promenade a fine avenue of _Populus dilatata_, as well as the _Tilia Europaea_, (Lime tree,) also several pieces of water, the outline of some formed with much taste and intricacy, while others are left rather formal; but, on the whole, little room is left for criticism. Dusseldorf is a handsome town, and contains about 18,000 inhabitants; with good streets and well built houses.

Sept. 22nd. Left Dusseldorf by diligence at eight o'clock, a.m.; and pa.s.sed by the palace of prince Frederic, which is situated close by the road side, in front of which the orange trees and sheets of water appear very conspicuous. The gardens are said to contain a good collection of plants.

Arrived at Cologne at one o'clock. This town is of considerable extent and traffic, and has a population of upwards of 50,000 inhabitants. The great object of attraction for the stranger is the magnificent church, or cathedral, one of the finest in Europe, the dome one hundred and eighty feet high, and the interior illuminated with beautiful stained gla.s.s windows; the portraits as large as life, and magnificently executed. I was, however, more pleased by the exquisite architecture of the exterior; when finished, the effect will be grand in the extreme. On the south side of the town are strong fortifications, opposite to which is a promenade, that runs along a narrow slip of plantation on the exterior side of them. There are also numerous fields for the growth of vegetables. I here observed a small nursery garden well stocked with fruit trees and shrubs. At a short distance from this I saw a large building which I concluded to be a military barrack or magazine, which was guarded by soldiers. By the time that I had completed my survey of the town, I found that it was approaching to the hour that the diligence was to leave for Aix-la-Chapelle. I started about seven o'clock in the evening for this town, where we arrived at four o'clock the following morning.