Narrative of an Expedition to the Shores of the Arctic Sea in 1846 and 1847 Part 10

The musquitoes were rather troublesome; but this I was not sorry for, as the Esquimaux said that the ice in the bay would soon break up after these tormentors made their appearance.

As our native friends were now getting sufficient fish to maintain them, they required no further a.s.sistance from us at present. Their mode of catching salmon is a very simple one. They build a barrier of stones about 1 or 2 feet high across a creek, some distance below high-water mark. The salmon, which keep close to the sh.o.r.e at this season, are by this means, during the ebb of the tide, cut off from the sea, and are easily speared. About sixty were thus killed this day. The spear used is usually made of two diverging pieces of musk-ox horn, from 4 to 5 inches apart at the extremities; between these there is a p.r.o.ng of bone about 3 or 4 inches shorter than the outer ones. Each of the longer p.r.o.ngs is furnished with a barb on its inner side, made of a bent nail or piece of bone, which prevents the fish from escaping. The handle is 6 or 8 feet long. The head of the instrument much resembles a three-p.r.o.nged fork, with the middle p.r.o.ng a little shorter than the others.

The moon was full this day. High-water at 45 minutes past noon. Arkshuk, s.h.i.+makuk, and Kei-ik-too-oo visited us on the 28th, bringing a few pairs of boots for sale. The tins which contained preserved meat, and table knives and forks, were in great demand among these good folks. One of the ladies to whom I gave a fork, used it as neatly in eating fish as if she had been accustomed to it from childhood. Thermometer as high as +60 in the shade.

The ice in the bay had broken up for more than a mile from the sh.o.r.e opposite the mouth of the river, but some distance out it looked as white and firm as ever.

I had for some time observed that large stones, some of them of one or two tons weight, were making their appearance on the ice; and I was much puzzled to make out how they came there. They could not have fallen from the sh.o.r.e, as the beach was sloping at the place, nor had they been carried in by drift ice of the previous season. The only way that I could account for it was this. At the commencement of winter the ice layer acquiring considerable thickness, had become frozen to the stones lying on the bottom, and raised them up when the tide came in. The stones would get gradually enclosed in the ice as it grew thicker by repeated freezings, whilst by the process of evaporation, which goes on very rapidly in the spring, the upper surface was continually wasting away, so that in June and July there was little of the first formed ice remaining, and thus the stones which at first were on the under surface of the ice appeared on the top. This may perhaps in some measure account for boulders, sand, sh.e.l.ls, &c. being sometimes found where geologists fancy they ought not to be. Ice has been time out of mind the great "conveyancer."

August 1st.--We were visited this day by an Esquimaux named I-ik-tu-ang, whom I had not before seen. He had pa.s.sed the winter near the Ooglit Islands, a few days' journey from Igloolik. He said that, when a boy, he was frequently on board the Fury and Hecla in 1822-23, and that the "Kabloonans" killed a number of walruses, and some black whales, with two small boats; that the walruses were put in "cache" for them (the Esquimaux), who were rather short of provisions at the time, and that they received the _skins_ of the whales. They had abundance of provisions last winter, but were visited by a very fatal disease--from what I learnt of the symptoms, resembling influenza--which carried off twenty-one grown-up persons. The children were not attacked with this complaint. Two of the party at Igloolik had been reduced to the necessity of putting to death and eating two children, to save themselves from starvation.

Four men, whilst hunting the sea-horse with their canoes lashed together, were a.s.saulted by this fierce animal, struck down with his formidable tusks, their canoes capsized and broken, and the whole party drowned. Another poor fellow having early in the winter harpooned a walrus through a hole in the ice, was dragged into the water before he could disengage himself from the line. The ice being still thin and transparent, the body was found a few days after.

I-ik-tu-ang also informed me--as I had already supposed from various appearances--that there is open water throughout the winter between this and the Frozen Strait, through which a strong current runs with the flow and ebb of the tide,--so strong is it that when bears are pursued and take the water, they are often swept under the ice and drowned.

In the afternoon two more Esquimaux with their wives from the same quarter, accompanied by Akkee-ou-lik and his family, made their appearance.

Some of the natives who had taken up their quarters near us were supplied daily with fish. They appeared quite as indolent as most of the other savage tribes of America, and never thought of looking out for food, so long as they could get enough to support life from us. Although they had a wear made for confining the salmon, they would not take the trouble to spear them when in it.

We endeavoured to get some young marmots, but without success. I find that these curious little animals leave their winter habitations, which are usually formed in dry sandy banks, as soon as the snow has in a great measure disappeared, and take up their summer residence among the rocks, where, I have no doubt, they are much safer from their numerous enemies.

The weather was still fine on the 6th, but it appeared to have little effect on the ice in the bay, which still remained hard and fast. All the largest and deepest lakes were covered with strong ice.

9th.--On looking out this morning I was happy to see a lane of open water stretching completely across the bay, but there was still a strong barrier between us and the south point, although a pa.s.sage to the northward might easily have been made. The nets produced eighty salmon, the greater part of which were given to the Esquimaux. The fishery was now abandoned, as we could procure close at hand as many salmon as we required.

During the whole of our spring fis.h.i.+ng Halkett's air-boat was used for setting and examining the nets, and was preferred by the fishermen to the large canvas canoe, as it was much lighter, and pa.s.sed over and round the nets with more facility. Notwithstanding its continued use on a rocky sh.o.r.e, it never required the slightest repair. It is altogether a most useful little vessel, and, as I have said before, ought to form part of the equipment of all surveying parties, whether by land or sea.

The men from the fishery were followed soon after by the Esquimaux with their baggage, which it took more than a dozen trips of our canoe to ferry over.

The large lakes were still covered with a thick coat of ice. There were a great many seals in the open water, and some of the fish in the nets had been eaten by them.

10th.--A storm from the north with rain and snow until noon, when the wind somewhat abated, and the weather cleared up. Great havoc was made among the ice, and in the evening there was a clear sea as far as the point of the bay.

11th.--There was a gale of wind all day with rain occasionally--the weather cold and unpleasant. We were all busily employed in preparing for sea. All the snow-banks for six or eight feet from the ground having been converted into solid ice soon after the spring thaw commenced, we had to dig out the chain and anchor of one of the boats, which were buried under ice of that thickness; yet on the very spot where this chain and anchor lay, there was not a particle of either ice or snow on the 25th July last year; such is the variable nature of this northern climate.

In the afternoon Nibitabo was sent to endeavour to get some fresh venison for our voyage, and shot two young deer; St. Germain and Mineau set the nets for a supply of salmon, and I was busy distributing among the Esquimaux axes, files, knives, scissors, &c. &c. &c.

The large lakes were still covered with ice, but in the bay there was little or none to be seen.

FOOTNOTE:

[4] Receipt.--Seven lbs. flour, 1 oz. carbonate soda, oz. citric acid, oz. common salt, water (cold), about gallon. The salt, soda, and acid being finely powdered and dry, are to be well mixed together; this mixture being well wrought up with the dry flour, the water is to be added in 2 or 3 parts and mingled with the flour as quickly as possible; the dough being put into pans is immediately to be placed in the oven.

CHAPTER IX.

Voyage from Repulse Bay to York Factory.

Having got every thing ready, the boat launched and loaded about 2 o'clock P.M. on the 12th of August, I was about to distribute our spare kettles, some hoop iron, &c. among the Esquimaux, when the compa.s.s of one of the boats was missing. Search was made, but no compa.s.s was to be found. At last I thought of turning over some heather that lay close to where my tent had been, and there discovered it. It had been concealed by one of the Esquimaux women--a widow--to whom more presents had been made than to any of the others.

Some of the most decent of the men appeared really sorry at parting, and waded into the water to shake hands with me.

We got under weigh with a light air of wind from the N.E. at 25 minutes past 2. Our progress was very slow, there being frequent calms, so that, between pulling and sailing, we reached only to within five miles of Cape Hope at 4 A.M. of the 13th. A large black whale and some white ones, with innumerable seals, were seen. Thermometer at +65; but it became much colder after the wind came from sea. During the night we sailed among loose ice. As it was still calm we anch.o.r.ed at half-past 4 A.M. to wait for the other boat, which was some miles astern, to re-stow the cargo and cook breakfast. Thermometer at 5 A.M. +48.

At half-past 6 we began pulling along sh.o.r.e. An hour afterwards a light breeze sprung up, but still ahead. The breeze becoming stronger, we hoisted sail and turned to windward, and would have made good progress had it kept steady; instead of which it followed or rather preceded the sun in his course westward, and thus headed us at every point we weathered. The flood-tide a.s.sisted us until 4 P.M., when we put ash.o.r.e, as the ebb was too strong for us. Shot a young Arctic hare. There is a number of long narrow lakes near the point we stopped at, which is formed of grey and red granite and gneiss, and is about five miles from the S.E. point of Repulse Bay. Caught three species of marine insects with fins, which they use like wings: preserved specimens of them. Every appearance of rain this evening. Thermometer +65 at 8 P.M.

14th. The wind s.h.i.+fted to the N.N.W. at half-past 9 last night, when we immediately got under weigh and sailed cautiously along sh.o.r.e, examining every bay and inlet when I supposed us near the northern outlet of Wager River, but not a trace of it was to be seen. If it exists, I think it not likely that it should have escaped our notice twice. The wind was for a few hours variable and squally; but it now s.h.i.+fted to N.E. by N.

and blew hard. In crossing Wager River Bay, eight or ten miles from sh.o.r.e, there was a very heavy cross sea, which washed over our gunwales occasionally. On nearing the sh.o.r.e the run of the sea became more regular; but the wind increased so as to make it necessary to reef sails. The weather a.s.suming a very threatening appearance, and the navigation being intricate and dangerous, we were forced to seek a harbour, which, after some difficulty, we found in a small bay at 8 P.M., having run from ninety to ninety-five miles, seventy-three of which were measured by Ma.s.sey's patent log. Two white bears and many walruses were seen on a small island near Whale Island; but the weather was too stormy to permit us to pursue them.

It had been my intention to cross over to Southampton Island and trace that portion of the coast from Port Harding southward which had not yet been surveyed; but a stream of ice and the state of the weather prevented my doing so, nor did I think it an object of sufficient importance to detain the expedition a day or two for that sole purpose.

Thermometer about +41 all day.

The male eider and king ducks appeared to have left this coast already, there being none but females seen. Our boat took the ground about half ebb--a fine bottom of sand and mud.

15th.--It blew a complete gale all night and during the greater part of this day. The sky, however, was sufficiently clear to allow me to obtain a meridian observation for lat.i.tude and variation. The former was found to be 64 49' 06" N.--the latter 41 27' W. Thermometer +46.

The wind began to fall in the evening, and the tide having come in so as to float the boats, we started at 4 P.M. under reefed sails. The sea was still running high, but it was long and regular; and as there was every appearance of fine weather, I determined to sail all night, keeping a sharp look-out ahead for shoals, reefs, and islets. There was a heavy swell all night which broke with great violence on the reefs; and it being very dark, both boats were once or twice nearly filled by getting into shallow water before we were aware of it.

16th.--At half-past 5 this morning we were opposite Cape Fullerton, and at 6 Ma.s.sey's log was examined, when it indicated a run of seventy-two miles. At 9 A.M. it fell calm. Thermometer +43. An hour afterwards there was a light breeze from S.W., with which we turned to windward among numerous rocky islands.

At noon the lat.i.tude, 63 56' 13" N., was observed, and shortly afterwards two Esquimaux were seen coming off in their kayaks, paddling at a great rate; but the breeze had now freshened, and it would have given them hard work to overtake us had we not shortened sail, and afterwards landed on an island, where we waited for them. Three more joined us there. They were very dirty, and far inferior in every respect to our friends of Repulse Bay. One of them was about five feet eight inches high, had a formidable beard and moustache, and was better looking than the others. After making them some presents we shoved off, and stood across the bay to the westward of Cape Fullerton. This bay is much deeper than it is laid down in the chart, and is crowded with islands.

It was near high water when we reached the main sh.o.r.e, and as we could make no progress against wind and tide, we put into a safe harbour.

Nothing was to be seen for a mile or two inland but rocks, clothed in some spots with moss or gra.s.s. Deer were observed, and a young one shot by Nibitabo.

About an hour after our landing the wind s.h.i.+fted to W.N.W., and, as I was afraid of getting aground in our present berth, the boats were moved to a more open situation from which they could start at any time of tide.

The Esquimaux could tell us nothing about Churchill, none of them having visited that place either this or the previous summer. Thermometer at 9 P.M. +53.

17th.--We were under weigh at 2 A.M., but the wind was both light and close, so that our progress was slow. Before the tide changed it came more from the southward; we were therefore obliged to anchor as soon as it began to ebb. The lat.i.tude of our harbour was 63 47' 33" N. Var. 31 8' W. The rocks, like those where we landed last night, were grey granite and gneiss. Thermometer at noon +60. A large black whale was seen this morning.

At half-past 1 P.M. the tide began to flow, and at two we were under sail, the wind having gone round to the northward, so as to permit us to lie our course along sh.o.r.e. A succession of reefs lines the coast, which is itself very irregular in its outline, being indented with numberless inlets, some of them running many miles inland.

The tide began to ebb at 8 P.M., and as the wind had fallen and headed us, we ran in sh.o.r.e and cast anchor under the shelter of some rocks. It was just getting dark when a fresh breeze of fair wind sprung up. This was annoying enough. At 10 o'clock nine Esquimaux visited us, but staid only a short time, as we were to stop near their tents in the morning.

Two of them said they would sleep on the rocks near us, with the intention of pointing out the deepest channel when we should resume our voyage.

18th.--We started at daylight this morning, but the fair wind, which had continued all night, soon failed us. Aided by the flood-tide, however, an hour's rowing brought us to the encampment of our last night's visitors, who welcomed us with much noise, and soon brought to the beach a number of furs and other articles for trade. They were very easy to deal with, apparently putting implicit confidence in our honesty; nor were they losers by this conduct. Ammunition was the article chiefly in demand, as they had two guns among the party. Files, knives, fire-steels, &c. were distributed among the men, and beads, needles, b.u.t.tons, &c. among the women. One of the women was rather good-looking, but they were all much darker than the natives of Repulse Bay. They were well provided with food, as they had a large seal lying on the rocks, besides venison. It was still calm when we left them, but favoured by the ebb-tide we pulled out of the inlet, and shaped our course towards Chesterfield Inlet, which we crossed with the last of the flood. The day was beautiful--far too much so--and the few light airs of wind were all against us. We landed in a small cove on the south side of the inlet to pick up a deer that was shot from the boat. Four more deer were killed, but all in poor condition.

About two miles to the northward of the inlet I obtained a meridian observation of the sun in the natural horizon, which gave lat.i.tude 63 32' 00" N. Thermometer at noon +65, and in the evening +70. The musquitoes were very numerous and troublesome. Numbers of turnstones (_Tringa interpres_) were seen.

19th.--There was a fine breeze again all last night, which died away at daylight. As soon as the flood-tide began to come in, we started with a light wind fair enough to allow us to lie our course along sh.o.r.e for a few miles. It again fell calm, when we took to the oars and landed on a point five miles to the southward of our last night's harbour, where we breakfasted at 9 A.M.

Dovekies in countless numbers were sitting on the stones, and swimming along the sh.o.r.e;[5] one or two pintailed and mallard ducks were seen on a lake a few hundred yards inland--the first we have seen since pa.s.sing Nevill's Bay last year. Some dovekies' eggs were found with the birds formed in them.

Having obtained a meridian observation of the sun, which gave for the lat.i.tude 63 17' 00" N., and variation 9 21' W., we got under weigh and beat to windward with the last of the ebb, which here ran to the south.

There was a fine breeze, but we made only about five miles southing, when at 6 P.M. the flood setting in strong against us, we put ash.o.r.e for the night under the lee of the point. It was not easy to find a harbour, all the coast from Chesterfield Inlet being flat and stony, and lined with shoals. A young buck was shot, but it was in poor condition.