Woodwork Joints Part 11

A double-folding, draught-proof hinge is then made as follows: Procure good fine webbing, about 1-1/4 in. wide, and the necessary large-headed tacks. Lay the laths side by side as shown in Fig. 244, and proceed to web them as shown. Commence with the web under the lath A; bring it between the laths and over B; now take it round the left-hand edge of B, and round the back and between the laths and over A, continuing this method of wrapping the laths until the lower end is reached, and then fastening the webbing as indicated by the dotted lines which represent the tacks. This self-contained hinge is then fixed to the edges of the screen by boring suitable holes through the laths and using countersunk screws. This is a cheap and efficient method of overcoming the difficulty. A similar method is used for the household clothes horse.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 245.--Finger Joint Hinge.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 246.--The Knuckle Joint Hinge.]

FINGER JOINT HINGE.--Fig. 245 is a finger joint--a movable interlocking joint used to support the leaf of a Pembroke table. The small portion is screwed to the table rail and the shaped bracket swings out to support the drop leaf. The shaded portion of the bracket shows the timber chamfered away so that the fingers may be easily put behind the bracket to manipulate it. Note that the corners are slightly rounded off, as indicated by the black portion of the sketch, and that the mortises are cut about 1/4 in. deeper than the thickness of the timber used. This joint has now been almost superseded by a cheap stamped galvanised iron bracket of exactly the same pattern. The joint, however, is still used for repair work and in cases where a stamped metal bracket has not sufficient overhang.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 247.--Open Joint Hingeing.]

KNUCKLE JOINT HINGE.--Fig. 246 is a similar type of joint to the above, and is called the knuckle joint. This arrangement of hingeing allows the table leg to swing in an angle of 180 degrees and is much neater in its appearance. It is often used to connect a movable table leg to the framing, where it is necessary for the table leg and rail to swing outwards and support a drop leaf. The pivot is formed by a piece of 1/8-in. or 1/4-in. round iron rod running through the centre of the joint.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 248.--Clearing the Architrave Mould.]

OPEN JOINT HINGEING.--The next three ill.u.s.trations apply more particularly to the hanging of the ordinary household door.

Fig. 247 is termed "open joint hanging," from the fact that when the door is open a certain amount of open s.p.a.ce exists between the edge of the door and the doorpost. This open s.p.a.ce varies according to the position in which the b.u.t.t hinge is fixed. A section is shown at which the pin of the hinge is let in level with the face of the door. This will allow the door to open as shown by the dotted line, and it will not clear the architrave moulding.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 249.--Close Joint Hingeing.]

Fig. 248 indicates the position of the hinge fixed so as to allow the door to open and lay flat back to the architrave moulding. In this instance the b.u.t.ts are made with wider wings, and they are generally provided to take three screws (see Fig. 233, right-hand wing of hinge).

To determine the position of the centre pin of the hinge the following rule is observed. The centre of the pivot pin of the hinge must be _half the distance_ between the face of the door, when closed, and the outside of the architrave moulding.

CLOSE JOINT HANGING.--The method known as "close joint hanging" ensures the joint at the hanging stile being in close proximity to the hanging rail; this is shown at Fig. 249. The first member of the architrave moulding is generally a bead of the same diameter as the knuckle of the hinge. The b.u.t.t hinge is let in as shown in the ill.u.s.tration, and the door when opened forms a close-fitting joint.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 250.--Rule Joint Hinge, with Leaf Open.]

THE RULE JOINT HINGE is used to connect the top and the drop leaf of a table in cases where continuity of design is desired, so that the edge of the top and the leaf will show an ovolo moulding when the table is either open or closed. To the inexperienced worker it presents several difficulties and, if it is a first effort, it is advisable to try out a sample joint on a couple of odd pieces of timber.

Fig. 250 ill.u.s.trates the joint when the leaf is opened or in a horizontal position. At Fig. 252 we have the joint when the leaf is let down to a vertical position. It should be observed in the latter figure that the edge A of the drop leaf is in alignment with the axis of the hinge. Steel or bra.s.s back-flap hinges (Fig. 233) are generally used and they are sunk into the table as suggested.

Set out the work full size as at Fig. 251, and mark point 1, which is to be the position of the joint. Draw 1, 2, at right angles to the table top. Mark point 3 on the vertical line for the centre of the hinge, and mark point 4 approximately as shown.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 251.--Setting Out for Rule Joint Hinge.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 252.--The Rule Joint with Leaf Down.]

With compa.s.s point on 3 and radius 3 to 4, describe an arc 4 to 5. This gives us the true joint line (1, 4, 5). The distance 0 to 3 is usually determined by the hinge. The knuckle of the back flap hinge is always let into the under side of the wood and the further it is inserted into the wood the more the joint will overlap at A (Fig. 252) which shows the joint when the flap or leaf is down.

SHUTTING JOINTS

This chapter deals with the joint made by the upright rail of a door frame which carries the lock, or handle, generally called the "slamming stile." Many and varied are the methods used to make a draught and air-tight joint at the meeting of the slamming stile and the carcase end, and our sketches ill.u.s.trate some of the simplest and also some of the best and most expensive methods.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 253.--Shutting Stile of Cupboard Door.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 254.--Showing Cupboard End Thicknessed (see B).]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 255.--Dust-proof Cupboard Door.]

Fig. 253 is a part plan of the end of a simple cupboard of which the carcase end is all of one thickness (_i.e._, not lined up in thickness).

A small strip of wood (A) is glued and screwed on the end to form a stop to the door and to prevent the access of dust to the interior of the cupboard.

Fig. 254 ill.u.s.trates a similar method; the stop (C) is seen, as in the previous ill.u.s.tration, but it will be noticed also that the carcase end in this case is lined up (see B) to give a pilaster-like appearance to the end, and the moulding is selected on account of its suitability to hide the joint of the lining piece.

Fig. 255 is of a more intricate type, and is often used on jewellers'

showcases. The end at the right hand is slightly rebated to receive the frame, and both the rail and the end are grooved with a plough plane. A separate bead is made and glued into the groove of the door frame (D), engaging the groove in the carcase end when the door is closed. The shutting stile and the end are worked with a hook joint (E), and if carefully made they are practically dust-tight.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 256.--Meeting Stiles with rebated Astragal.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 257.--Door Rebated for Astragal.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 258.--Door with Bra.s.s Astragal.]

Fig. 256 shows the meeting of two doors which open outwards, a separate piece of timber being made to form a rebated astragal mould (F) and glued to the right-hand door. This method gives a neat and effective finish.

Fig. 257 is similar to the above, with the exception that the rail of the door is rebated (G) to receive the astragal moulding. This method is preferred on the best cla.s.s of work, because it shows no unsightly joint at the inside of the door frame.

Fig. 258 ill.u.s.trates the type of joint made by using a bra.s.s astragal mould (H) as employed on high-cla.s.s work, frequently seen on French furniture of the Louis periods. In Fig. 259 is shown a piece of bra.s.s astragal moulding, which may be procured from any cabinetmaker's ironmonger in suitable lengths. It is fixed in position by slightly rebating the edge of the door and fastening with ordinary countersunk bra.s.s screws.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 259.--Bra.s.s Astragal.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 260.--Curved Cupboard Doors with Rebated Meeting Joint.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 261.--Rebated Meeting Joint.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 262.--Meeting Joint with applied Astragal.]

Fig. 260 is a rebated joint, broken at the front by a bead moulding. The ill.u.s.tration shows its application to a circular-fronted cupboard, and it will be noticed that the hinged rails are received in a rebate which is worked on the carcase ends. The rebated joint at the centre of the two doors is worked slightly on the bevel, so as to allow for clearance when opening the door.

Two of the commonest meeting joints of doors are seen in Figs. 261 and 262. In the former case the stiles are rebated (as already shown in Fig.

260), whilst at Fig. 262 an astragal bead is glued to the right-hand stile. In Fig. 261 a bead is worked on the right-hand stile to mask the joint.

Fig. 263 is the hook joint used on good-cla.s.s joinery and cabinet work. A pair of special wood planes are required to make the joint in a cheap and efficient manner. The cost of a pair of 5/8-in. hook joint planes is from 6_s._ to 8_s._ They are of similar size and general appearance to the ordinary ovolo moulding plane.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 263.--The Hook Joint.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 264.--Hook Joint with loose Tongues.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 265.--Rebated Joint with Tongue Slip.]

Fig. 264 is a special type of hook joint as used on larger work. The joint may be made by using the plough plane, the rebate plane and a suitably-sized bead plane, the loose tongues being inserted as shown and fastened by screws and glue.

Fig. 265 is a rebated joint with loose tongue-slip and astragal mould, suitable for frames over 1-1/4 in. in thickness. The loose tongue-slip is glued into the right-hand door frame.