A New Guide For Emigrants To The West Part 24

Selma is a landing and depot for the lead mine country, 38 miles below St. Louis.

Clarksville, Hannibal, Saverton, and La Grange are commercial sites on the Mississippi, above the mouth of Missouri. Palmyra is a beautiful town, of about 1,000 inhabitants, and the seat of justice for Marion county. Along the Missouri are Portland, Rocheport, Boonville, Lexington, Independence, and many other places of various degrees of importance. Franklin formerly stood on the north bank of Missouri, but most of it has been removed, three miles interior, to the bluffs. Potosi is a central town, in the mineral district. Fulton, Columbia, and Fayette are the seats of justice for Callaway, Boone, and Howard counties, and are pleasant and flouris.h.i.+ng towns.

About the same provision for education has been made in this as in other Western States, and a disposition to encourage schools, academies and colleges is fast increasing.

CHAPTER XIII.

ARKANSAS, AND TERRITORIAL DISTRICTS.

Arkansas, which has recently formed a const.i.tution, lies between 33 and 36 30' N. lat.i.tude, and between 13 30' and 17 45' W. longitude.

Length, 235; medium breadth, 222 miles;--containing about 50,000 square miles, and 32,000,000 acres.

_Civil Divisions._--The following are the counties, with the population, from the census taken in 1835:

Counties. Population.

Arkansas, 2,080 Carroll, 1,357 Chicot, 2,471 Conway, 1,214 Clark, 1,285 Crawford, 3,139 Crittenden, 1,407 Greene, 971 Hempstead, 2,955 Hot-Spring, 6,117 Independence, 2,653 Izard, 1,879 Jackson, 891 Jefferson, 1,474 Johnson, 1,803 La Fayette, 1,446 Lawrence, 3,844 Miller, 1,373 Mississippi, 600 Monroe, 556 Phillips, 1,518 Pike, 449 Pope, 1,318 Pulaski, 3,513 Scott, 100 Sevier, 1,350 St. Francis, 1,896 Union, 878 Van Buren, 855 Was.h.i.+ngton, 6,742 ------ Total, 58,212

Another table we have seen, makes out the population, as officially reported (with the exception of two counties, from which returns had not been made,) to be 51,809;--white males, 22,535; white females, 19,386;--total whites, 41,971: slaves, 9,629;--free persons of color, 209. The population, in 1830, 30,388;--in 1833, 40,660.

The following graphical description of Arkansas, from the pen of a clergyman in that State, is corroborated by testimony in our possession, from various correspondents. It was written in 1835.

_Letter from Rev. Harvey Woods, to the Editor of the Cincinnati Journal._

"Arkansas Territory is a part of that vast country ceded to the United States by France, in 1803. From the time of the purchase, till lately, the tide of emigration hardly reached thus far. In 1800, the population was 1052. Arkansas was erected into a Territory in 1819. At this time it is receiving a share of those who retire beyond the Mississippi.

_Rivers._--The Territory is admirably intersected with navigable rivers.

The Mississippi on the east, the Great Red river on the south. Between these, and running generally from N. W. to S. E. are the St. Francis, White, Arkansas, and Was.h.i.+tau rivers; all fine streams for steamboat navigation.

_Face of the Country._--It is various. No country affords more diversified scenery. The country in the east, for 100 miles, is flat with marshes and swamps; in the middle, broken and hilly; and in the west, hilly and mountainous. There are some prairies, some thickly timbered land, some heavy timbered. The country is generally a timbered country. Some parts are sandy, some rocky, and some flinty.

_Soil._--Should a man travel here, and expect to find all good land, he would be sadly disappointed. The best lands are generally contiguous to the rivers and creeks; and these are exceedingly fertile, not surpa.s.sed by any soil in the United States. Arkansas soil that is rich, has just sand enough to make it lively and elastic. Our best lands are covered with walnut, hackberry, mulberry, oak, ash, grape vines, &c.

_Water._--The hilly and mountainous parts are well supplied with springs, limestone, and freestone. Also good streams for mills. In the flat country, good water is easily obtained by digging.

_Productions._--Cotton and corn are the princ.i.p.al. The Arkansas cottons commanded the best price last season, in the Liverpool market. It is a country of unequalled advantages for raising horses, mules, cattle and hogs.

_Climate._--It is mild, and from its difference in lat.i.tude, say from 32 40' to 36 30' N., and the difference in local situation, we would guess, and correctly too, that there is much difference in the health of different places; the high and northern parts healthy, and the flat and southern subject to agues and bilious fevers. The climate has been considered unhealthy to new settlers; but it is not more so than other new countries.

_Minerals._--There are quant.i.ties of iron, lead, coal, salt, and, it is a.s.serted by some, silver. There are many salt and sulphur springs. On the Arkansas river, beyond the limits of the Territory proper, is a section of country called the salt prairie, which, according to good authority, is covered for many miles, from four to six inches deep, with pure white salt. In the Hot Spring country, are the famous hot springs, much resorted to by persons of chronic and paralytic diseases. The temperature, in dry, hot weather, is at boiling point.

_State of Society._--The general character of the people is brave, hardy, and enterprising--frequently without the polish of literature, yet kind and hospitable. The people are now rapidly improving in morals and intellect. They are as ready to encourage schools, the preaching of the gospel, and the benevolent enterprises of the age, as any people in new countries. The consequences of living here a long time without the opportunity of educating their children, and dest.i.tute of the means of grace, are, among this population, just what they always will be under similar circ.u.mstances. Ministers of all denominations are "few and far between." We have no need _here_ to build on other's foundation.

I am living in Jackson county, on White river. This county has a larger quant.i.ty of good land than any one in the Territory. White river is always navigable for steamboats to this place, 350 miles from its mouth.

Well-water is good,--some fine springs. Was.h.i.+ngton county, and some others, that have the reputation of better health, are more populous.

We want settlers; and we have no doubt that vast numbers of families in the States, particularly the poor, and those in moderate circ.u.mstances, would better their situation by coming here, where they can get plenty of fertile and fresh land at government price, $1,25 per acre. They can have good range, and all the advantages of new countries. Emigrants, however, ought not to suffer themselves to expect all suns.h.i.+ne, and no winter. We have cloudy days and cold weather, even in Arkansas! If they have heard of the _honey pond_, where flitters grow on trees, they need not be surprised if they don't find it. Cabins cannot be built, wells dug, farms opened, rails made, and meeting-houses and school-houses erected, without work.

It may be asked, "If Arkansas be so fine a country, why has it not been settled faster?" There are perhaps three reasons;--a fear of the Indians, a fear of sickness, a fear of bad roads. The Indians are now all peaceably situated beyond the Territory proper, and are blessed with the labors of a number of good pious missionaries, who are teaching them to read the Bible, and showing the tall sons of the forest the way that leads to heaven. Sickness is no more to be dreaded here than in Illinois and Missouri. The roads have indeed been bad.--For a long time, no one could venture through the Mississippi swamps, unless he was a Daniel Boone. But appropriations have been made by Congress for several roads.

This summer, roads from Memphis to Little Rock, and to Litchfield and Batesville, and other points, will be completed. An appropriation of upwards of $100,000 has been made to construct a road through the Mississippi swamp.

Again: we want settlers--we want physicians, lawyers, ministers, mechanics and farmers. We want such, however, and _only such_ as will make good neighbors. If any who think of coming to live with us, are gamblers, drunkards, Sabbath-breakers, profane swearers, or the like, we hope that when they leave their _old_ country, they will leave their _old_ habits."

We have not seen the Const.i.tution of this State, now pending before Congress for admission into the Union, but understand that its essential principles are the same as that of the other Western States.

WISCONSIN TERRITORY.

Under this name is now comprehended an extensive district of country, lying on both sides of the Mississippi river, above Illinois and Missouri, and extending indefinitely north. That portion lying betwixt the northern boundary of Illinois and the Wisconsin river, and from lake Michigan to the Mississippi, has the Indian t.i.tle extinguished, and, in part, has been surveyed and brought into market. There is much excellent land in this part of the Territory, and it is well watered with perennial streams and springs. Offices are opened for the sale of public lands, at Mineral Point and Green Bay, and a large amount has been sold, and some at a high price. The country immediately bordering on lake Michigan, is well timbered, with various trees. Here are red, white, black and burr oaks, beech, ash, linden, poplar, walnut, hickory, sugar and white maple, elm, birch, hemlock, and pine, with many other kinds.

The soil is not so deep and dark a mould as in the prairies of Illinois, but is fertile and easily cultivated; and sandy, especially about the town of Green Bay. Towards the lake, and near the body of water called Sturgeon Bay, connected with Green Bay, and between that and the lake, are extensive swamps and cranberry marshes. Wild rice, tamarisk, and spruce, grow here. About Rock river and from thence to the Mississippi, there is much excellent land, but a deficiency of timber. Lead and copper ore, and probably other minerals, abound in this part of the country. Along to the east and north of the Four lakes, are alternate quagmires and sand ridges, for 50 miles or more, called by the French _coureurs du bois_, "_Terre Tremblant_," (trembling land,) the character of which is sufficiently indicated by the name.

There are several small lakes in the district of country we are now examining, the largest of which is Winnebago. It is situated 30 or 40 miles south of Green Bay,--is about ten miles long, and three broad, and is full of wild rice. Fox river pa.s.ses through it. Kushkanong is six or eight miles in diameter, with some swamps and quagmires in its vicinity.

It is on Rock river, between Catfish and Whitewater.

The _Four lakes_ are strung along on a stream called Catfish, which enters Rock river 25 or 30 miles above the boundary of Illinois. They are 6 or 8 miles long, abounding with fish, and are surrounded with an excellent farming country.

Green Bay settlement and village is 230 miles north of Chicago, 220 north-east from Galena, 120 from Fort Winnebago, and in N. lat.i.tude 44 44'. _Navarino_ is a town recently commenced in this vicinity, with an excellent harbor, grows rapidly, and bids fair to become a place of importance. Property has risen the last year most astonis.h.i.+ngly.

Fort Winnebago is a military post, at the bend, and on the right bank of Fox river, opposite the portage. From thence to the Wisconsin, is a low wet prairie, of three fourths of a mile, through which, a company has been chartered to cut a ca.n.a.l. On this route, the first explorers reached the Mississippi in 1673. The Wisconsin river, however, without considerable improvement, is not navigable for steamboats, at ordinary stages of the water, without much trouble. It is full of bars, islands, rocks, and has a devious channel.

The streams that rise in the eastern part of this Territory, and flow into lake Michigan, north of the boundary of Illinois, are in order as follows: Pipe creek, a small stream, but a few miles from the boundary,--Root river next,--then Milwaukee, 90 miles from Chicago. It rises in the swampy country, south of Winnebago lake, runs a south-easterly course, and, after receiving the Menomone, forms Milwaukee bay. Here is a town site, on both sides of the river, with a population of six or eight hundred, which promises to become a place of business. The soil up the Milwaukee is good, from 6 to 32 inches in depth, a black loam and sand.

Pa.s.sing northward down the lake is Oak creek, 9 miles below Milwaukee,--thence 21 miles is Sauk creek, a small stream. Seventy miles from Milwaukee is Shab-wi-wi-a-gun. Here is found white pine, maple, beech, birch and spruce, but very little oak: the surface level and sandy. Pigeon river is 15 or 20 miles further on, with excellent land on its borders;--timber,--maple, ash, beech, linden, elm, &c. Fifteen miles further down, is Manatawok. Here commences the hemlock, with considerable pine. This stream is about 40 or 50 miles from Green Bay settlement. Twin rivers are below Manatawok, with sandy soil, and good timber of pine and other varieties. From Milwaukee to Green Bay, by a surveyed route, is 112 miles;--by the Indian trail, commonly travelled, 135 miles. North of the Wisconsin river, is Crawford county, of which Prairie du Chien is the seat of justice. From the great bend at Fort Winnebago across towards the Mississippi is a series of abrupt hills, rising several hundred feet, and covered with a dense forest of elm, linden, oak, walnut, ash, sugar maple, &c. The soil is rich, but is too hilly and broken for agricultural purposes. There is no alluvial soil, or bottoms along the streams, or gra.s.s in the forests.

The Wisconsin river rises in an unexplored country towards lake Superior. The _coureurs du bois_, and _voyageurs_ represent it as a cold, mountainous, dreary region, with swamps.

West of the Mississippi, above Des Moines, and extending northward to a point some distance above the northern boundary of Illinois, and for 50 miles interior, is a valuable country, purchased of the Indians in 1832.

Its streams rise in the great prairies, run an east or south-eastern course into the Mississippi. The most noted are Flint, Skunk, Wau-be-se-pin-e-con, Upper and Lower Iowa rivers, and Turkey, Catfish, and Big and Little Ma-quo-ka-tois, or Bear creeks. The soil, in general, is excellent, and very much resembles the military tract in Illinois.

The water is excellent,--plenty of lime, sand and freestone,--extensive prairies, and a deficiency of timber a few miles interior. About Dubuque, opposite Galena, are extensive and rich lead mines. Burlington is a town containing a population of 700, at the Flint hills opposite Warren county, Illinois. Dubuque is situated on the Mississippi, on a sandy bottom, above high water, and 14 miles N. W. from Galena. It has about 60 stores and groceries, 2 taverns, 2 churches, and about 1000 inhabitants, and we have before us the prospectus for the "DUBUQUE VISITER," a weekly newspaper. Peru is in the vicinity, and contains about 500 inhabitants. The New Purchase, as this district of country is called, is divided into two counties, Dubuque, and Des Moines, and contains a population of 8 or 10,000. The whole Wisconsin Territory is estimated by its legislature, now in session, to contain 30,000 inhabitants.

Hitherto, for civil purposes, this region has formed a part of Michigan Territory, and still its legislature acts under that name; but a bill is before Congress to organize a territorial government under the name of WISCONSIN, which doubtless will be effected in a few weeks. Not many years will elapse before two new States will be formed out of this district of country, the one on the eastern, and the other on the western, side of the Mississippi.

CHAPTER XIV.

LITERARY AND RELIGIOUS INSt.i.tUTIONS FOR THE WEST.

Colleges;--Statistical Sketches of each Denomination;--Roman Catholics;--Field for effort, and progress made.

In giving a sketch of literary and religious inst.i.tutions in the West, the very limited s.p.a.ce remaining to be occupied in this work, compels me to throw together a few general facts only. The author has made some progress in collecting materials, and he designs to prepare another work soon, in which a variety of particulars and sketches will be given of the early history, progress of literary and religious inst.i.tutions, colleges, seminaries, churches, Bible, Sunday school, education and other kindred societies in the Western Valley, with the present aspect of each denomination of Christians. The interest taken in the affairs of the West, and the anxiety evinced by the community for facts and particulars on those subjects, demand that they should be treated more in detail than the limits of this Guide will allow.